Day 4: Toul to Metz

We wandered down to a boulangerie at 6.30 am to grab some breakfast provisions. The streets were quiet, with an occasional pedestrian passing by, baguettes in hand.

We were on the road by about 8.15 am. It was a cool 6 C, and rain threatened.

We left via the same gate we’d entered the previous day.

Part of the fortress wall.

Within 10 km it was raining. We had pre planned and had our rain over boots on already, so just threw our raincoats on to keep our torso warm and dry.

Today we passed by, and through, numerous villages.

Nice chateau in Villey Saint Etienne, through the misty rain.

Villages overlooking the Moselle River.

Liverdun is an interesting village we skirt around.

Rail bridge
Chateau
Fish in the river
Another chateau
That is a lot of ivy!

We rode through an area with numerous private fishing lakes.

I’ve expanded our ride map to show how numerous they are around the river and canal.

Signage indicated these were former gravel quarries that have been rehabilitated into nature areas.

How successful they have been in transforming the area.

More locks along the canal.

Pont-a-Mousson, a now strong steel town, site of savage fighting during WWII.

Town church

Back through forests adjacent to canal and river. I was fascinated by this very pale coloured snail. It was huge, maybe 3-4 times the size of the snails I ‘deal with’ in my garden.

Bright bird house
Ornate fairy garden tree
Another bike

Along the rivers edge we came across an interesting war memorial, dedicated to US troops.

The Battle of Dornot-Corny took place over 60 hours, leaving 945 Americans dead. It is also referred to as Omaha Beach Lorraine.

There are a series of information panels with photos and testimonies from survivors.

The surrounding waterways have numerous private fishing shacks, ranging from super basic, to more ‘solid’ structures.

We passed by a tall post showing various flood levels over the years, I cannot see any of these surviving a big flood.

An old Roman aquaduct constructed in the 2nd century. When completed it was 22 km in length, including significant underground sections. Those Romans were clever!

Nearly there, Metz is ahead.

Metz is a Gallo-Roman city, sitting at the confluence of the Moselle and the Seille Rivers. Twenty bridges criss cross the rivers and canals.

We find our hotel easily enough. Then came the hardest challenge of the day. Following obscure French instructions to locate the hotel underground car park some 300 m away.

We can navigate Europe without too many issues, but find a French car park was challenging!

We knew, or rather thought, we were close.

Fortunately a couple approached us and asked if we were looking for the car park. They had seen us checking in as they left to find the car park.

He told us he’d been wandering around for 10 min confused, then bingo!

We were less than 50 metres away. Our bikes are secured in a locked room within the locked underground car park.

No crook will find this carpark!

After showering and laundering, we spent several hours wandering around what we found to be an impressive town.

Lots of waterways, canals, bridges, classic apartments and buildings.

Then our first glimpse of the undoubted highlight of Metz.

Getting closer. To photograph the cathedral whole is likely to be difficult or impossible. It is seriously huge.

Saint Etienne Cathedral is the third tallest in France, after Beauvais and Amiens.

There has been a church on this site since soon after AD. The current church was built in the 13th and 14th centuries.

I have visited a lot of churches on our cycle tours and this is right up there with the very best. I was gobbled smacked by the extraordinary height of the ceiling vaulting.

The nave is 41.41 metres in height and the tour de la mutte (bell tower) is 90 metres in height.

Stained glass is the most in the world at 6500 square metres including modern updates by the contemporary Marc Chagall.

As a bonus, when we entered, one of the two magnificent organs was being played. Seemed like a rehearsal. The sound was incredible.

I kept staring up at the ceiling and going wow. I looked at the stain glass still going wow.

A side chapel, one of many, all featuring magnificent lead light.
The rear
No explanation as to why the dragon is in the church. If in Wales I’d get it….
You can just see the man playing the organ.

I reluctantly left. There was more to see plus we needed to buy a new charging plug, as we’d been having some issues with our current one.

We headed off to the famous French department store Galeries Lafayette and for an arm and a leg, acquired our goods.

We found an early dinner. It was very ordinary and decided our frozen lasagna was better last night.

The icecream at another stop did not disappoint though!

I wanted to see this building. It is used on many promotions for Metz.

Temple Neuf is a Protestant church, built in 1901-1904 by Glod (when I first read that I thought I read God…and had a laugh).

Temple Neuf, we enter the purple gates to wander around the church
Great angle.

Walking back to our hotel the Cathedral dominates. Being further away we get more into the photo.

Still there, with lovely homes along the river.

Part of an ancient baths from about the 15th century.

Slightly further down, another section.

A fascinating day today. 84 km ridden and we really enjoyed the variety of sights.

Tomorrow we leave France and follow the river on the German side, with Luxembourg on our left hand side.

Thanks for following us. We appreciate it 😊❣️🚴

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