Day 4: Toul to Metz

We wandered down to a boulangerie at 6.30 am to grab some breakfast provisions. The streets were quiet, with an occasional pedestrian passing by, baguettes in hand.

We were on the road by about 8.15 am. It was a cool 6 C, and rain threatened.

We left via the same gate we’d entered the previous day.

Part of the fortress wall.

Within 10 km it was raining. We had pre planned and had our rain over boots on already, so just threw our raincoats on to keep our torso warm and dry.

Today we passed by, and through, numerous villages.

Nice chateau in Villey Saint Etienne, through the misty rain.

Villages overlooking the Moselle River.

Liverdun is an interesting village we skirt around.

Rail bridge
Chateau
Fish in the river
Another chateau
That is a lot of ivy!

We rode through an area with numerous private fishing lakes.

I’ve expanded our ride map to show how numerous they are around the river and canal.

Signage indicated these were former gravel quarries that have been rehabilitated into nature areas.

How successful they have been in transforming the area.

More locks along the canal.

Pont-a-Mousson, a now strong steel town, site of savage fighting during WWII.

Town church

Back through forests adjacent to canal and river. I was fascinated by this very pale coloured snail. It was huge, maybe 3-4 times the size of the snails I ‘deal with’ in my garden.

Bright bird house
Ornate fairy garden tree
Another bike

Along the rivers edge we came across an interesting war memorial, dedicated to US troops.

The Battle of Dornot-Corny took place over 60 hours, leaving 945 Americans dead. It is also referred to as Omaha Beach Lorraine.

There are a series of information panels with photos and testimonies from survivors.

The surrounding waterways have numerous private fishing shacks, ranging from super basic, to more ‘solid’ structures.

We passed by a tall post showing various flood levels over the years, I cannot see any of these surviving a big flood.

An old Roman aquaduct constructed in the 2nd century. When completed it was 22 km in length, including significant underground sections. Those Romans were clever!

Nearly there, Metz is ahead.

Metz is a Gallo-Roman city, sitting at the confluence of the Moselle and the Seille Rivers. Twenty bridges criss cross the rivers and canals.

We find our hotel easily enough. Then came the hardest challenge of the day. Following obscure French instructions to locate the hotel underground car park some 300 m away.

We can navigate Europe without too many issues, but find a French car park was challenging!

We knew, or rather thought, we were close.

Fortunately a couple approached us and asked if we were looking for the car park. They had seen us checking in as they left to find the car park.

He told us he’d been wandering around for 10 min confused, then bingo!

We were less than 50 metres away. Our bikes are secured in a locked room within the locked underground car park.

No crook will find this carpark!

After showering and laundering, we spent several hours wandering around what we found to be an impressive town.

Lots of waterways, canals, bridges, classic apartments and buildings.

Then our first glimpse of the undoubted highlight of Metz.

Getting closer. To photograph the cathedral whole is likely to be difficult or impossible. It is seriously huge.

Saint Etienne Cathedral is the third tallest in France, after Beauvais and Amiens.

There has been a church on this site since soon after AD. The current church was built in the 13th and 14th centuries.

I have visited a lot of churches on our cycle tours and this is right up there with the very best. I was gobbled smacked by the extraordinary height of the ceiling vaulting.

The nave is 41.41 metres in height and the tour de la mutte (bell tower) is 90 metres in height.

Stained glass is the most in the world at 6500 square metres including modern updates by the contemporary Marc Chagall.

As a bonus, when we entered, one of the two magnificent organs was being played. Seemed like a rehearsal. The sound was incredible.

I kept staring up at the ceiling and going wow. I looked at the stain glass still going wow.

A side chapel, one of many, all featuring magnificent lead light.
The rear
No explanation as to why the dragon is in the church. If in Wales I’d get it….
You can just see the man playing the organ.

I reluctantly left. There was more to see plus we needed to buy a new charging plug, as we’d been having some issues with our current one.

We headed off to the famous French department store Galeries Lafayette and for an arm and a leg, acquired our goods.

We found an early dinner. It was very ordinary and decided our frozen lasagna was better last night.

The icecream at another stop did not disappoint though!

I wanted to see this building. It is used on many promotions for Metz.

Temple Neuf is a Protestant church, built in 1901-1904 by Glod (when I first read that I thought I read God…and had a laugh).

Temple Neuf, we enter the purple gates to wander around the church
Great angle.

Walking back to our hotel the Cathedral dominates. Being further away we get more into the photo.

Still there, with lovely homes along the river.

Part of an ancient baths from about the 15th century.

Slightly further down, another section.

A fascinating day today. 84 km ridden and we really enjoyed the variety of sights.

Tomorrow we leave France and follow the river on the German side, with Luxembourg on our left hand side.

Thanks for following us. We appreciate it 😊❣️🚴

Day 3: Epinal to Toul

Leaving Epinal it was straight onto the cycle path we were to follow for the day.

People were out walking their dogs. We’ve noted that cleaning up after your dog not a ‘thing’ here, so lots of dog poop everywhere.

Nice statue in the park.

The path followed the Moselle canal. The river was always in sight too, shallow and not yet navigable.

The path was mainly sealed but sections of compact gravel.

The canal crosses the river in places through elevated canal structures and bridges.

These fascinate me and also reminded us of our trip to Wales, staying with Alan and Sue who took us to the Llangollen canal and bridge.

These are not as elaborate but the concept is the same.

The view from the canal bridge overlooking the Moselle river.

Further on, we passed our first canal boat the “peace vegan” from Basel.

We watched it pass into this lock, with the lock waters raising, opening the gate, boat enters.

We saw a few other canal boats, and many locks today.

Riding the cycle path bypasses most towns and villages. At road crossings there are often signs indicating nearby villages.

We detoured to a small village mid morning, grabbing a hot drink (it was only 6C), and something nice to eat.

Whilst I ordered Tony took this photo.

He also took this. There was a boutcherie open, with these rotisserie chickens cooking outside. The smell was super enticing.

How we thought about these chickens later in the day, when everything in Toul was closed.

There are some lovely aquatic parks, with lakes formed from the Moselle.

Fishing is super popular. Lots of serious fisherman set ups along this section.

Typical pathway and vegetation today.

Crossing a road, signage for an upcoming cycle event.

We stopped for a stretch here. Pathway at the rear, and a boutcherie vending machine. Behind the doors are lots of protein options you can purchase.

Arriving in Toul early, we cleaned our bikes with this view of a pretty fountain and gardens in the roundabout.

We did contact the Air BnB owner to see if it was possible to arrive a bit earlier. They agreed to one hour early, so we waited then rode only about 600m.

We are in a nice unit. The owners are currently working in Saudia Arabia.

This unit has a washing machine, with a strange rotating drum that you seem to need to lock. We could not figure it out so hand washed.

Heading out to explore, it was discovered Tony’s phone battery very low, so only a few photos as the local Cathedral. Another seriously old church.

The Cathedrale St-Etienne began in the 13th century, taking over 300 years to build. It suffered damage during World War II.

This section is beautiful. To either side, the vaulting is not in good repair, and there is netting everywhere to catch falling parts.

I’ve borrowed this local tourism photo.

Toul is an octagonal fortress city, encircled by the Moselle and the Canal de la Marne.

You do not get a sense of this riding in. You can see the church we just visited. Our overnight stay is quite close by.

The citadel was built in the early 18th century, from which the ring of defensive waterways and the octagonal city ramparts remain.

Dinner provided difficulties. Nothing was open. Supermarkets and restaurants all closed, being Sunday. We’ve experienced this before but near the fountain photographed early, we found a small convenience store open and grabbed a frozen lasagne to cook in our oven.

The days ride was flat, easy and very chillaxing. Just turn the feet over as overall we descended a few hundred metres.

Still we covered 92 km.

Tomorrow we head to Metz, a much larger city, inching our way closer to the German and Luxembourg borders.

Thanks for reading and joining us vicariously. We do appreciate it. ❣️😊🚴

Day 2: Thann to Epinal

My first goal today was to get the Belgian cyclists talking.

I achieved that in the coffee line at breakfast. I learned that there were 18 cyclists from a Hasselt University Cycling Club in Belgium.

They were spending four days doing various climbs through the Vosges Mountains.

They then asked questions about our bikes and the trip planned.

I did smile watching the hotel owner bringing food out. There were five slices of ham and cheese on each platter to select from vs 20 cyclists and a handful of non cycling couples, She was constantly bringing out more plates of cheese and ham, not increasing the number of slices which vanished in seconds each time.

An enormous quantity of baguettes, croissants and chocolate au pain disappeared too. The coffee machine got no rest as each cyclist had a minimum of two coffees. Many like us, put a double espresso in topped by a cappuccino.

20 cyclists go through more food each than the average person. They see food and it just goes.

Lucky no bananas were on offer as it is a popular ‘to go’ item tucked in a back jersey pocket.

Bidding the Belgians farewell we grabbed our bikes from the shed. Here are just some of the bikes. More were tucked away to the right.,

Two of the Belgians grabbed the bike shed key from us, with an older man asking where we were headed. I told him and he raised his eyebrows asking if we were climbing Col du Bussang.

He was very concerned stating it was a very dangerous road.

With that positive thought, we hit the road.

The forecast today was for cool weather, and it was only 5 C upon departure.

We followed a quiet road adjacent to the river Thur. There were few cars and the occasional Saturday peloton.

The river is 53 km long and a tributary of the River Ill, ultimately flowing into the Rhine.

The path crossed the river and we followed another quiet road connecting villages. Wildflowers are starting to flower.

Saint Amarin was a larger town we ride through, located in the southern Vosge mountains.

A nice local church.

It appears the Tour de France has been through before.

Nice fountain outside the Hotel de Ville (city hall).

In 63 days, the Tour de France arrives in town, featuring the local climb, Col du Haag.

A solid little climb.

The area is lush and green, looking towards the Vosges to the right, and Col du Bussang to the left.

We started the Col du Bussang climb, rejoining the main road up. No bike paths, some verge but the road is wide and has a good quality seal.

The traffic is quite busy with cars, but very few trucks. Perhaps Saturday is a bonus for us with the lack of trucks.

At no stage did we feel unsafe, with considerate drivers giving us wide berth.

We later learned, that Bussang Pass is one of the busiest passes in the Vosges, connecting the areas (states) of Lorraine and Alsace.

It is a solid 6 km climb with the first half steeper than the second half.

Here I am climbing.

Still climbing….

Just about to reach the top.

Tony at the top.

Our elevation graph clearly showing the climb.

We take the first right hand turn just as the road descends, getting us off the busier road, and back into much quieter routes.

We pass by the source of the Moselle River, which we will be following for the next five days or so.

At least there is a trickle of water, unlike the source of the Thames.

We stop in the town of Bussang for an early lunch.

The Moselle River is now a nice creek size.

Bikes perched outside the boulangerie. We had a cold quiche and dreadfully hot coffee here. There were some cyclists ahead of us who took the last of the rolls.

Looking for toilets we found a few nice town sights.

Many cycle routes in the region.

Leaving Bussang we follow the Route La Voie Bleu, France’s new long distance bike route that follows the Moselle and Saone Rivers from Lyon to Luxembourg.

Most of the pathway is traffic free along the riverside. Other parts are minor lanes.

It is easy riding, easing to cross roadways with barriers to slow you down and warn of possible dangers ahead.

It is well signposted, with multiple areas to stop and use picnic tables.

You often pass by residents backyards, and in this case, front gate. The bike has seen better days.

The city of Epinal is our overnight destination. A larger city on both sides of the now enlarged Moselle River.

We find our Air BnB without issue, and the owner stores our bikes in his garage. Then we head up three flights of stairs to our ‘compact’ rooms featuring a loft bedroom.

Lots of areas to wack your head. Bathroom to the right, bedroom up the stairs.

The view from the unit door. Our one window, kitchenette to the left.

I forgot we had a skylight! This view is sitting in the bed. I hope we don’t sleep walk as there are no barriers.

We shower and launder and head off to check town out. It is drizzling and we find Basilique Saint Maurice, under renovation.

We enter via the door below. It is very dark inside, and looks very old. It was built in the 11th century.

Beautiful stained glass and incredible vaulting. I am forever impressed with respect for the craftsmen with their vaulted ceiling constructions.

We thought we headed out the way we entered. Apparently not.

We wandered along the Moselle River.

We grabbed supplies for dinner and breakfast and headed back to our compact unit.

Day 2 done and dusted. 90 km today. An excellent day touring.

Thankyou for reading ❣️🚴😊

Day 1: Stein to Thann

So it begins…

We woke to an overcast day. Rain was forecast but at lighter levels.

We enjoyed a slower start, talking to Ben and Sharon then it was time. Here we are, ready to hop onto our bikes and get on our way to start our 3,300 km odyssey.

Today was a three country day. The first 15 km was in Switzerland, crossing to Germany at one of our favourite villages, Rheinfelden.

We had our rain jackets on as the rain was pouring down steadily.

Old gate into town
Very damp street
River between two houses
Crossing the bridge to Germany
On the German side, looking back to Switzerland

We took shelter in a pedestrian tunnel on the German side, popping our rain booties on over our cycle shoes. It is a hard thing to do, and if you listened to our huffing, puffing and grunting I’m sure you’d laugh. They fit super tight, helps to keep the water out and keep the feet warmer.

Temperatures were cool. It was 6 C when we left and only reached 8 C by Thann in the sun.

We rode 13 km in Germany, heading back into Switzerland near Basel.

Basel is Switzerland’s third largest city, and considered the cultural capital of Switzerland with over forty museums. Well known as a centre for the pharmaceutical industry with both Roche and Novartis having large hubs.

My son Ben works for Roche in Basel.

We have visited central Basel numerous times and can recommend it.

It is a beautiful city, with a magnificent cathedral, and the lovely adjacent Rhine waterway.

Basel Cathedral
Basel as we cross the bridge
Crossing the Rhine
Statue on the bridge
Looking across to the northern side, Roche twin buildings to the right. These buildings are Switzerlands tallest.

We followed the Rhine for a few more km, before turning to the west at Huningue, and now we are in France.

We followed the path along the petite carmargue, essentially a small water canal, lots of vegetation, theoretically attracting wildlife. None to be seen today.

We spent about 25 km travelling through forest tracks such as the one below. Easy riding, very straight, with occasional busy roads to stop at.

Nice to utilise these trails as we can relax and feel quite safe. The only other users were cyclists but the forest also has many walking trails.

We did get peckish and food options were zip. We had a few little items courtesy of Qantas and Emirates that we devoured.

Foret de la Harde
Where we stopped to snack, having just crossed the main road.

We have ridden past this tank in 2022 as we headed across France to the Loire Valley. It forms part of the local WWII remembrances in the area.

This tank is on the southern side.

Riding in France you see many crosses and remembrances for WWII. Most towns and villages have at least one.

The war memorial.

We reached the town of Ensisheim just after 1 pm. Many shops were closed for siesta. Fortunately we found a small boulangerie open with just two ham rolls left. We enjoyed them!

In 1492 a 127 kg meteorite fell near the village, portions of which can be viewed at the local museum.

Aside from that fact, it’s a pretty little town.

An interesting graphic story involving Christopher Columbus. Being nowhere near Spain or the Americas unsure how it relates to the inland village we were in.
Local village church

Back on the road, we only had 20 km left to ride. That pleased me as I am still feeling a bit jet lagged.

The picture below is very typical of what we see on the pathways that bypass villages. There are agricultural fields and the ubiquitous church spire dominating the small village.

On the other side of the path, the Vosges Mountains are covered by rain clouds. We’ve had no heavier rain since Switzerland and hoping to make it to Thann dry.

100 km ridden, saw us arrive at our hotel. A bunch of cyclists were cleaning their nice road bikes out the back. They also have vehicles, indicating most are from Belgium.

We store the bikes in a large shed with the Belgian’s shiny bikes. They are not overly friendly, unusual for cyclists in this situation.

After showering and laundering we headed off on foot to check out town.

Thann is situated at the foot of the Vosges Mountains, with the river Thur running through the town.

The obvious starting point was this lovely church.

It is known as the Collegiate Church of Thann, built over a period of two centuries

Pilgrims came due to a relic of Saint Thiebaut, renowned as a miracle worker. After his death in 1160, a local bishop stopped in the valley, lighting three fires. The staff containing the relic remained stuck in the ground.

The Count of Ferrette freed the staff and built the chapel dedicated to Saint Thiebaut.

That chapel remains as the oldest section of the church we visited today.

Beautiful Gothic vaulting
The great west portal.

There are some lovely buildings in Thann.

A very narrow structure.

We were hungry and found a little boulangerie open, enjoying our morning tea albeit many hours later.

We had dinner at the hotel, albeit late for us at 7 pm. We opted for a set three course menu and ended up overly full.

There were 18 cyclists at the next table, still not friendly.

We will sleep well tonight. 100 km today and we are still feeling jet lagged. I think it will be early to bed.

Today’s route and elevation.

Thanks for reading 😊🚴❣️

Mum on tour

We have arrived in Switzerland safe and sound.

Looking out Ben’s lounge room window. Rhine River, Germany to the left bank, Switzerland to the right.

No dramas with our three flights, and I even managed four hours sleep on the Melbourne to Dubai sector.

We always try and book far enough in advance to pay extra for exit row seats which provide plenty of leg room and space to stand and stretch. Worked a treat on both longer legs.

You would not know anything was amiss in the Middle East, although I did catch some high level BBC headlines on the live news about THAT man authorising bombing drone sites in Iran. 🙈

Swiss passport control took out finger prints, photos and asked what we were doing and she was amazed.

We headed down to the baggage area and all our luggage including the bikes were waiting.

We then just walked outside. Unlike Melbourne where coming home Tony has to navigate customs chicanes with the bikes, in a long snaking queue, and we get asked questions.

Anyhow, our driver Radislav was nowhere to be found. We waited 30 min then rang him. He wanted us to go up to the departure area, to save him money as that’s free, but coming to the arrivals area he has to pay to exit.

We had paid over $300 AUD to be collected at the arrivals, and we were tired and potentially easily titchy. So I declined and insisted he come down to arrivals given the luggage included our bikes.

10 min later we were in his van and his exit fee ticket jammed the machine. He was attacking it with various keys until the said ticket was in his hand.

He was an unhappy Bulgarian by now.

I closed my eyes and after a time opened them to unfamiliar sights and a series of tunnels. It felt wrong.

I got my iPad working and sure enough he was heading to Liechtenstein and Austria (to the east) whereas our destination was towards France (to the west).

He assured me he was right. I debated the point, he eventually conceded I was actually correct, but by then he’s stuck on freeways.

We eventually wound our way to the correct destination arriving albeit late.

Radoslav is taking us back to the airport in late June so at least he has visualised where we are.

I felt sorry for him in the end, as he has lived here only two months.

Now settled in at my son Ben’s place that he shares with his wife, Sharon, we enjoyed an early dinner. I received a gift from Ben, hence the title name for this blog.

Switzerland is known for many wonderful things and today I have my very own Swiss Army knife, with multiple tools and attachments, right down to tightening screws on your glasses.

It is engraved with my name on one side, and in the other, it’s says:

I love it. Mum on tour is great and that’s what we do and we love.

I’m impressed I’m entrusted to operate such a weapon! I’m keen to use the saw!

After a solid night sleep I was up at 4 am, such is jet lag.

We headed to Stettlen, near Bern to visit Sharon’s family. Today is a public holiday in Switzerland and Sharon’s two siblings were also visiting.

We enjoyed an amazing brunch, lovely walk between rain showers, a family music game, then more food.

We need to ride over 3,000 km to work it off !

Pictures from the walk and family time.

Paths around local farms and forest
An old bakery
Bern is famous for bears
Tony, Stefan, Judy, Ben and Davita. Sharon and Joy are out of photo range.

We are ready for day 1. Mum on Tour, let’s go!

Thanks for reading. 😊❣️

Finale

With the derailleur failure our cycling journey was over. However, we still had a few days left of our trip.

With the benefit of Toby’s Ford Ranger, we trotted off from Manapouri to Te Anau, only 19 km by road.

We were to ride this via a trail. It was a short day of around 35 km.

We did head off the main road to intersect the trail. The overnight heavy rain was evident, as the trail was flooded, and a jet boat prepares its next round of victims for a drenching.

We drove up to a viewpoint overlooking Lake Te Anau.

Volunteers were packing up barriers and banners from the previous day Kepler Track endurance run.

We arrived in Te Anau late morning, despite dragging our heels.

We checked out the Department of Conservation visitor centre, which provides a dearth of information on the region, plus pictorial history.

We have a big penguin at home, but here we have….a big deer.

I ended up in a bookstore, buying the latest Paullina Simmons book to read. Nearly 600 pages should keep me busy. I started to read it as we parked by Lake Te Anau chilling.

I read it in 24 hours, finishing it before we even left Te Anau. Not often I have such time to enjoy a book.

Te Anau is a busy town, the base for all travel via road to Milford Sound. Thousands upon thousands of people descend daily to the Sound, car after car, motor home after motor home, and the most incredible number of buses.

The following day we joined the convoy for some 20 km, heading to Lake Mistletoe. There is a circuit walk to the lake, through lovely forest.

A super easy walk, nice forest.

A pretty lake.

Back at the carpark looking to Lake Te Anau.

A little further up the road is Te Anau downs, site of a well known farm, as well as the departure point for walkers doing the Milford Track (transported by boat across the lake).

This is an old shearer’s shed, which is to be renovated. It is adjacent to the first historic mini hydro scheme in the area,now in ruins.

Another look before we head back to Te Anau for some lunch, then off to the cinema to watch the short feature film, Fiordland.

Good to watch, showing various aspects of the Fiordland National Park during the four seasons, with extensive use of drone photography.

Next day it was time to head back to Queenstown for our final two nights.

We would have been following the Mountain Trail to Walter Peaks, then ferry across Laka Wakatipu, then riding to our base. 125 km day riding.

We could see it was quite windy around the trail area, and wondered how the creeks would have been after the projected 200 mm in the mountains.

We stopped at this cafe just because of the bike pictures. Inside staff were busy cleaning up from a rogue customer who had used the tomato sauce bottle like a water pistol spraying sauce everywhere. Chairs, tables and carpet were all squirted. Idiots!

We stopped at the Honey shop which also had interesting old cars like this.

Driving back along the Devils Staircase, I note what a wonderful bike ride this would be heading in this direction. Just the issue of the cars and no verge though. We saw no cyclists.

Back in Queenstown we headed to Queenstown Park and back to this water edge cafe we are familiar with.

We returned Toby’s car up to Arthur’s Point, leaving it parked on the street with the keys sitting on the left wheel. That is a concept that I found difficult, hoping his car remained safe.

We cannot thank him enough for stepping in when he did. 😊❣️

Yesterday we finished cleaning the bikes and packed them up.

We then walked. Around 10 km but broken up as my knee is still complaining mainly downhill (slopes, steps).

We walked along the Kawarau river trail to the Hilton cafe, sitting in the sun for about 90 minutes, watching the boats, planes, people.

Walking back, great views of The Remarkables. I do enjoy looking at this majestic and rugged range.

What a holiday and adventure. Nearly 1,000 km ridden, over 14,000 m climbing and many memories created.

We are ready to go home, see Khaleesi and keep planning our next adventure.

To be sure, it is booked! It is a long one (3,200 km), six countries, and less climbing than we have just done, and I doubt very little dirt! Certainly nothing like we have experienced here on some of the trails.

One last view, out our door, as the sun starts to go down,

The Remarkables are just that. Quite remarkable and leave me in constant awe.

Thankyou to those who joined us virtually on this journey. We appreciate your thoughts and comments left here and on Facebook. 😊❣️

To keep doing the blog is something I toss around, but I thank Honu’s mum for its continuance for a further year.

Honu is a friend of mine from Zwift. He is my co captain on a weekly Trek ride we lead. He relocated from the west coast USA to east coast to care for his older parents, who have some health challenges.

Honu’s mum reads daily. I think Honu casts it onto a larger screen and he told me how much she likes to follow.

I was honoured and thought, another year at least. I contacted WordPress who ‘did a deal’ with me, saving me $.

To Honu’s mum, and everyone, thankyou. Over 8,600 views, over 5,000 visitors in 2025.

Ooroo 😊❣️

Day 16: Doubtful Sound

Today was magic. A trip and life highlight.

We were not scheduled to ride today. It was one of our two planned days off the bike.

When I researched and planned I determined Milford Sound was not a suitable riding route due to tourist traffic volume, narrow verges, amount of climbing and not being able to leave early enough to miss the highway of traffic heading in.

Then I discovered Doubtful Sound. I had not heard of it before.

Doubtful Sound is the largest of New Zealand’s fiords.

Captain James Cook sighted the entrance on his first voyage in 1770.

Unlike its more famous neighbour Milford Sound, you can’t drive there. It is remote. Hence there are less visitors. It was sounding very appealing in so many ways.

Cycle touring you do not tend to be around lots of people. We become satisfied with our own company, or the company of just a few people, and masses does our head in.

This map shows Milford further north. The blue dot is our current location.Doubtful Sound area with the red tag.

The Sound spans an amazing 40 km from the head of the fiord to the Tasman sea. It is the deepest of New Zealand’s 14 fiords.

The Maori named the fiord Patea, meaning place of silence.

After an early breakfast we walked down to Pearl Harbour.

By 7.30 am we were boarded on our first boat trip, sitting upstairs, out the back.

Closer up map. We need to cross Lake Manapouri, the western arm. This takes one hour.

We then transfer via bus across the top of Wilmot Pass down to the shores of the Sound. This also takes one hour. We manage to sit directly up and behind the driver scoring good views out the front window.

We will spend 2.5 hours on the next boat and travel out to the Tasman Sea and explore various arms.

Then a further two hours returning via bus and boat to,our starting point.

Here we go, looking back at Pearl harbour.

Looking forward, the weather forecast is great. We’ve got very lucky given tomorrow’s forecast.

Here are a series of photos crossing Lake Manapouri. Visually stunning.

We reach the western arm, also the power station base that powers much of South Island. The only sign of man’s invasion really. However, as a result of this a road was constructed. That means tourists can get to the Sound.

A series of photos from the Sound are next. We sit upstairs and outside again to maximise our views.

The fiord was carved out during the glacial age. A marine reserve rich with fur seals, penguins, visited by various whales and sharks seeking a feed.

The amount of wow’s was high. We were super gob smacked.

Owned by the same company, Real NZ, this is the overnight boat
Tasman Sea
Tasman Sea
Fur seals on the rocks at the entrance to the fiord.

It was such a joyeous privilege today. It is not a cheap excursion, but one I’d highly recommend.

Near the finish, we entered an arm and all motors turned off for five minutes. We were asked to not talk, take photos, but to think and reflect.

It was incredible. What a moment. 😊❣️

Back on the bus for an hour, we stopped at the top of Wilmot Pass. This is looking back down on Doubtful Sound, our last view.

We travelled the length of the sound to the Tasman Sea and return.

This is a sad story about a young bloke during the building of this road. His wife was due to give birth in Invercargill. As no options were available to get there quickly, he walked. He had not checked the explosion detonation schedule and was killed at Wilmot Pass.

Beautiful vegetation.

Further down the Pass, we stopped again for another view, but this drew our curiosity, There were two touring cyclists.

Tony tried to engage with them but they gave him nothing. Later we researched and discovered you can apply for a permit to ride the section we did by bus, but then?

Back on the final boat I gaze back out towards the area of the Sound. It was an emotionally uplifting experience. The sheer, unadulterated beauty.

An extraordinary day.

Tomorrow, 200 mm of rain is forecast for the Sound. How lucky did we get?

Do yourself a favour. Come to this part of the world, go to Doubtful Sound, stay at Murrell House, you won’t be sorry.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 14: Wanaka to Queenstown

We have made it to Queenstown, but not by the form of intended transport.

No luck anywhere with the derailleur. Everyone needs to order it in from the distributor.

Kind thanks to friends with their offers including posting from Australia and ‘can it be 3D printed’. No, it can’t.

A derailleur is quite complex. Mine was a SRAM Force AXS, 12 speed, wireless electronic. Uses eTap (how I change my gears), so not a standard, off the shelf item, and not cheap either.

After failing to secure one, Tony has ordered one in Australia, on sale, circa $600. Will likely beat us home.

This is the stuffed derailleur.

As to the cause, after the crash, upon inspection there was a chunk of grass caught in the mechanisms that likely caused the catastrophic failure.

If I had noticed that grass earlier likely could have resolved. Not sure where I acquired the grass as neither of us recalled a grassy patch we’d ridden through so must have been some overhanging bad luck.

Anyhow, even if we’d been able to acquire a new one, I do not think I was physically capable of riding.

I slept badly, very uncomfortable and woke aching all over, still feeling a bit nauseous. That alone, I could have ridden but it is both my knees that are giving me the most grief.

As an example, getting on and off the loo is very hard and painful. Climbing up the Crown range would likely have been impossible.

Walking up and down stairs I am walking like a crippled old lady. Tony teases me, but he has been very supportive as I deal with the guilt of it all.

Our taxi driver Eric rolled up at 9 am, maxi van with a trailer!

Tony dropped the front wheels off the bike and stored them in the back of the van, we tossed our bike bags in and off we went.

Eric was delighted to drop the trailer back to home base as it was very noisy, clunky and bouncing around.

Then we started off on what would also have been our cycle route, heading to the Crown Ranges, and New Zealand’s highest road peaking just over 1,000 m asl.

As can be seen, a solid climb.

It was interesting viewing it from the van.

The town of Cadrona is nice, with the famous hotel of the same name being one of New Zealand’s oldest pubs.

Then we climbed and climbed, but not hard on the knees or lungs or heart at all in the van.

For Eric it is slow going as it winds up, and then we find all the cycling tourists with panniers. Maybe 20 or so.

Some were more comfortable than others, but there were quite a few pushing their bikes up. I felt for them.

Some even had road cleats, making the walk even harder. We use mtb cleats touring. They are recessed meaning we can walk vs waddle.

There was nowhere obvious for them to pull over to rest either.

Not the safest climb for a cyclist but a challenge many undertake as it is there to be done, plus a lack of alternative routes unless you take the longer route via Cromwell. I think that may be a better option safety wise.

At the top there is a lookout. You can see the airport runway at Frankton.

Rexby.com

The descent is steeper.

We arrive at our Queenstown accommodation at 10.15 am. Check in is 3 pm, but our room is ready and they hand over the key.

I have a nanna nap as I am seriously wiped out.

We then get another taxi to pick up a loan car from a Tassie friend Tony worked with at Simplot.

An extraordinary gesture. Tony said he’d had support from friends overseas before when needed, and he likes to ‘play it forward’. ❣️

Arthur’s Point is high up above the Shotover River. We grab the car, complete with its Sex Wax dangle off the rear view mirror 🤣.

We stop at the Arthur’s Point activity area, near the bridge to watch the action.

Every 15 minutes two boats take new passengers from this point. firstly upstream, then turn around screaming past us and under the bridge heading downstream.

A video of the boats in action if you click play.

Back to our room, I had another nanna nap and then we walked down to the lake edge.

A lovely cafe with this view. We think we might wander down for breakfast there tomorrow.

It is so gloriously beautiful here.

You can see a steam boat crossing the lake. it is heading to Walter Peak station, where there is a farm.

We were to cross tomorrow at 7.30 with bikes. We were then riding 115 km along and through that mountain range to Manapouri.

With that ride out of contention, I rang the ferry operators. Given the first trip was less than 24 hours away they said bad luck but would look at the return.

They came back to me and fully refunded the whole $278. Super kind and that covered our extra $260 from Wanaka.

Our initial Air BNB host (where we stayed upon arrival, have our bike bags, due there next week) agreed to take our bikes.

So we drove up to Frankton (near airport) and deposited the bikes, all our cycling gear.

We have very minimal casual clothes for the next week as we were to wear cycle clothes daily. It is what it is.

So there we have it, the DNF is confirmed.

The stats. We rode 989 km, climbed a solid 10,341 m. I think that climbing is more than we did over 35 days in Europe earlier this year over 35 days.

It is certainly more than our next scheduled 35 day trip next year, so we have done ok still.

So our intention is to stay at our remaining booked accommodation, do Doubtful Sound.

We have lost four days cycling, as we had two days off the bike in the next six.

Such is life.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 13: Makarora to Wanaka

Today finish was very unplanned. We came to a crashing halt. Literally.

Before that for some 66 km we had a brilliant day.

The weather was cool at 7 degrees C. We rode 5 km up the road to go to the brilliant cafe we had stopped at yesterday to grab breakfast.

A paddock of male deer belonging to the trophy shooters farm. The antlers on these boys are like works of art.

At our now favourite coffee haunt the resident pooch looked like he had a hard night. At the other end of the couch, a log fire was roaring, and he looked super cosy.

The staff here are amazing. Their service and friendly chit chat is exemplary.

Back on the road with full tummies, whilst the clouds were much lower than the previous day, we soaked up the desolate beauty.

There were more cars heading to the west coast than our way so traffic not as busy.

Of course, we climbed but all were reasonable, with just one tougher hill with an extended 10% section.

Looking towards Lake Hawea, we have climbed over The Neck.

Lake Hawea is beautiful and really is these colours. the sediment seems to have settled from the recent rains.

Another climb

We had been looking for the cows and calves from yesterday. Here they are chilling in a lovely paddock with a view, far more relaxed than their long highway walk the previous day.

More climbing and views.

We stop at the lookout and remove our rain over booties. Our feet are sweating.

A group of German motorcyclists stop, along with their support van. There were about 15 or so riders all up.

We stopped in Lake Hawea township to grab lunch, bumping into a cyclist we had met a few days ago.

We then chatted with two young lads on their roadies, and one wearing a Nice jersey, telling us he rides Pro Continental for the same named team.

We crossed paths about 30 minutes later as we crossed the road for the Lake Hawea river track and they sped up the roadway at lightening speed, so light on their pedals.

We rode this path a few days ago. Overall quite a nice track that ends at the suspension bridge.

Heading this way I realise that the bridge has a decline so I crossed it far quicker, with less wobble.

From Albert Town we follow the track named Upper Clutha! Again? WT? We thought we had finished with Upper Clutha tracks but no, it said welcome back, let me finish you off.

The waters were clear and beautiful.

There was a lengthy flooded section. We could see tyre marks where other intrepid cyclists had headed slightly inland to detour.

Ah the serenity.

Then shit happened. I was pedalling along a nice section adjacent to the river and felt my gears were not right. I pushed my right foot down to pedal and the whole bike locked up.

I fell left, fortunately on a smoother piece of track.

My legs….oh they hurt, my front handlebar bag had opened and stuff went everywhere.

When I eventually composed myself enough to sit up, I checked my legs, and despite the pain, felt nothing broken.

When Tony returned wondering where I had got to, he picked up the bike and cussed along the lines of ‘oh, it is stuffed’ , but stronger language.

Aside from pain, I felt a rush of guilt and disappointment.

The rear derailleur had a catastrophic failure twisting and jamming between the wheel spokes. The chain twisted and was stuffed too. The wheel seems ok.

Grass had got caught in my cogs likely causing this.

He removed the derailleur and the hanger was still ok. Usually they are the sacrificial lamb, and break to protect the far more expensive replacement derailleur.

We were out of mobile range, still 10 km from our destination. We had to push the bikes a few km to the nearest road and there we had mobile reception.

First taxi company would not assist. I cried.

Second one would, but about 45 minutes time.

This is the view we had as we sat and reflected. We also contacted all bike shops in Wanaka but none had the right part. It would need to be shipped to them.

Lots of scenarios played through our heads.

The taxi arrived and this is it. Not what we planned but at least no broken bones. This taxi driver was very kind, and we saw him a bit later in Wanaka, and went over and thanked him again.

Now at our hotel in Wanaka, offers and ideas have come through from supportive and sympathetic friends.

A well timed face time from my daughter Hannah and granddaughter Willow was perfect timing. Little kids always make you smile.

I need to see how I pull up overnight as my left leg hurts a bit when I stand up and not sure how it will go pedalling even if we can get the part.

This is the part. Not a cheap part. likely cost around $600 plus to replace.

Today’s route 67 km, we nearly made it falling 8 km short. Still managed over 700 m climbing in what was otherwise, another brilliant day.

What’s next? Need to sleep on it.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 12: Lake Hawea to Makarora

When the clouds lifted a little, we realised it had snowed on the upper peaks.

Lake Hawea has beautiful vistas.

We were riding towards Haast today, mountain country. The clouds were over most of the peaks, but as the skies lifted, it was amazing.

We rate today’s ride in our likely top 10 rides ever. We’ve done a few too.

The views were incredible and seem closer than photos indicate, and we could see the snow vs the clouds easily.

The road, well, it is a busy tourist route. Well formed, minimal verge and fast.

We just hope that the cars behave. Most gave us a wide gap.

Lake Hawea was to our right.

There were hills. One was tougher and longer with an extended 10% section but we were comfortable enough.

This is looking back towards the town of Lake Hawea.

The views kept us amazed.

Heading down this hill and bearing left, we are heading towards Lake Wanaka.

Then this! A herd of cattle being moved down the road. Mums and their calves. The mums were very noisy with the calves trotting behind them to keep up with mum.

We rode to the left of that little calf. Cars moved slowly through as the cows dispersed.

The mess on the road was significant.

Climb again and we leave Lake Hawea.

The Neck, a higher point between the two lakes.

Lake Wanaka.

We stopped at this roadside viewpoint and were quickly joined by three other cycle tourers.

The guy on the left is from Switzerland, having started his ride in the far north, Cape Reinga heading to the Bluff. He has been riding 35 days or so. Wanaka was his next overnight stay.

The couple on the right are from Austria and were heading over Haast Pass to the West coast.

They were loving the area and scenery, coming from very mountainous countries themselves. They did note that the whilst the mountains are quite high the roads here don’t go as high as theirs so you don’t get to ride the dizzy heights.

You can see another group behind us. The man in white asked to take a photo of the five of us. We all laughed but agreed.

On we headed with Lake Wanaka on our left.

Lots of mountains and snow on the upper peaks.

Waterfall Creek, aptly named.

Looking back towards Wanaka.

Looking to the direction of our destination.

Another creek that flows under the road into the lake.

Just glorious.

Lake Wanaka ended and it was the Makarora River to our far left, that feeds into the lake.

We noted many deer farms.

More cyclists touring.

We stopped at a cafe some 5 km before our accommodation. Super nice, and this is the resident dog that sat with us.

The food was nice, and likely where we will go for breakfast tomorrow, but they do not open until 9 am, so we will start later. That’s fine, if the weather behaves. There is some rain forecast, but we will see.

We stopped here as Tony was leaking some tyre sealant. This time, the hole needed two plugs then it sealed fine.

I was horrified by the trophy hunting sign. This farm had a paddock of male deer, and a few paddocks with I presume females. How that works with trophy hunting I am not sure, but farm raised animals for trophies? I find it sad.

I’ve done too much work in and around abattoirs as part of my job and it has affected my mind set on animal killings.

A final view before our overnight stay.

We arrived early and have had a chilled afternoon. Good to relax as I am carrying an injury/issue and hopefully this will help.

That’s it today folks. This is an out and back section, so hoping for more good weather tomorrow to see it all again from the reverse perspective.

Thanks for reading .

😊❣️

We have covered some ground in this area now, noting the orange are where we have ridden before, from our Strava data.