Day 5: Aberystwyth to Corwen

The weather was cool and blowing a gale when we awoke. We had beautiful harbour views and amazing long, bay windows to enjoy the view.

I can recommend the Glenrowan Hotel for cyclists. We had cleaned our filthy bikes up before checking in, and they allowed the bikes in our room. The bathroom was huge and could easily hold multiple bikes without issue.

We had a big bowl of porridge and fruit for breakfast and headed off. We were surprised just how cool and breezy it was.

After a flat one km or so, we entered a nasty one km steep climb up last the Aberystwyth University. With cold legs, lungs and a racing heart, the body did protest greatly, so I walked the second half.

The ride levelled out with ups and downs, and the first of the rain showers hit us. So we stopped in a lay by and popped our booties on.

You can guarantee when you do that, it will stop raining. Looking forward, the rain stopped!

Looking north, it flattened along the coast, and this picture is looking towards Aberdovey, at the mouth of the Dovey river.

We had noticed signs re an osprey project, then saw this metal art work, and stopped to look at it.

Whilst there we got chatting to Shaun and Jason, who were from Cardiff and off on a day trip to the Snowdonia’s.

We headed back in the road in the search for coffee, hoping the town of Machynnlleth would have something open on a Sunday morning.

Machynlleth is a market town in the Dyfi Valley, and the seat of Owain Glyndwr’s Welsh Parliament in 1404, thereby claiming to be the ancient capital of Wales. Owain was the last native born Welshman to hold the title Prince of Wales.

There was a pub open, and we were able to grab a coffee, sitting outside pondering whether to out the rain jacket back on.

I reckon the rain jackets were on/ off 25-30 times today. Put them on, rains, climb a hill, get too hot, take them off. Repeat.

This is a stolen photo showing the town clock, which was significant covered by scaffolding due to refurbishment works. It looked to be the nicest structure in town.

We headed off onto quieter rural roads and crossed this bridge, smiling at the life buoy. It was quite shallow, but fast flowing. I am sure older kids who can swim competently would have some fun here.

This section of the ride was very pleasant, passing through Llanwrin, Mathafam, Cemmaes Road, Cemmaes, Aberangell and Mailwyd.

It was a fairly quiet road, except around the shooting range. It seemed very active in the range, with the sound of gunshot echoing around.

It was good that they sponsor the Air Ambulance.

The hardest task of the day way just ahead. We knew it was a tough one. It started to rain again, and we could see waterfalls high in the hills.

This is our climbing graph for the day. You can see that we had gradually climbed from about the 20 km mark to 47 km. Then there is that brute of a chapel spire.

We did not find out until later that this hill had a name, Bwlch Y Groes…or Hellfire Pass.

On the upside, it did offer brilliant views of the surrounding Welsh countryside of the Aran mountains. On the flipside, it was a seriously difficult and brutal climb on a loaded bike.

The road is sealed, but narrow with no verge. It hits a maximum of 25% through some of the ramps. It is regarded as one of the steepest, toughest and most spectacular climbs in the country and regarded as a truly definitive climb.

It was used between and after the wars by the Austin Motor Company and the Standard Triumph Motor Company to test prototype cars and their performance during hill climbing.

Heading up here was the first warning sign and there is me peddling along to start the serious stuff some few hundred metres ahead.

Well I lasted 300 metres or so, and got off the bike. There were a few issues.

I need space climbing so I can weave a little. With the heavy flow of traffic this was impossible.

Then there was the headwind, it was fierce.

The cars back up on a climb with no verge, and with lots of cars also descending you can frustrate drivers ( mind you, the Welsh drivers have been friendly and fantastic). You stop to let them pass, but climbing is super hard to start again on a slope once stopped.

With an imminent total knee replacement now scheduled, recovering open heart surgery and let’s face it, I did not have the strength nor skill to ride up this. I made the safe decision and walked.

Taking the next few photos was super hard. Holding the bike on the slope, in the wind, without it falling over took all my strength. Pushing the bike up is also very hard.

I swung back to snap this one of Tony. He lasted about another 20 metres. You can see the lack of space on the road.

I did get back on the bike for a few short sections but walked the majority. A camper van stopped and asked if I would like a lift. I immediately said “yes” but then changed my mind as I knew I’d be disappointed to not do this under my own steam.

At the top looking back down the valley you can see the road to the left.

The top

Once at the top Tony took a video he later put onto social media. Near the end of the video there was a toot from two motor cyclists. Amazingly it was Shaun and Jason whom we had met earlier in the day.

Descending was pleasant. We liked these old stone walls.

The views opened up, and we looked forward to Cross Foxes, a pub located at a busy road junction part way through the descent.

Boom, and here we are. We got a table outside, and do you note something? It is sunny!! It had been slow progress to this point and we felt we would be getting to Corwen at dinner time!

The post lunch ride was totally different. It was downhill for a while, then a series of uphills, and then undulating for the rest of the ride. We made up some time as we were able to ride at a faster pace.

Some of the views.

This is Lake Bala. To the left, there are people swimming in the lake. there was a campground full of campers.

Bala Lake was the largest natural body of water in Wales before its level was raised to provide water for the Ellesmere Canal. It lies between the Aran and Arenig mountains at the fringes of Snowdonia National Park.

Getting closer to,our destination we enjoyed this forest.

Stopping to photograph this bridge, that we then rode over.

Looking down towards Corwen, we were ready to finish.

Nearly there!

Corwen stands on the banks of the River Dee beneath the Berwyn mountains. There is a man standing in the river fishing.

After 114 km and 1327 m climbing, we arrived at the home of Alan and Sue. We have not seen them since they visited Australia around 2015. We had ridden Lands End to John O’Groats with Alan in 2013.

I did not write the blog last night as we chatted. Instead I got up before 5 am, whilst the house sleeps, to do the blog. It is now 7.15 am, and the house is still quiet.

We have our first and only scheduled rest day today. The day is looking beautiful.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

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