Day 35: Plainfaing to Vœgtlinshoffen

We knew today was likely to be tougher, courtesy of the extreme weather forecasts in France currently.

We are not hot weather riders, period!

We had a nice French breakfast hosted by our lodge owner, a really friendly chap who has tried super hard.

He saw us off still smiling, surprised that we were turning left, not right.

Left goes up to Col de la Schlucht. We had to get over the Vosges to get back to Switzerland.

So we started climbing and kept climbing for 19 km. The first half far gentler than the second half.

Here’s our graph.

The weather was already a warm 21c.

The start, just a few hills at the back.

We climbed past this confectionery makers place.

Agricultural fields.

Forest.

A video Tony took early on.

Climbing comfortably.

Nice little church.

The first half were gradients under 5%. I could see from the graph that the second half would be tougher as the graph was yellow and read, so 5-10%.

The road was in good condition.

About 2 km from the top you reach a large junction, we turned left.

There was a shady spot and it seemed to be where all the cyclists rested before finishing the climb.

The last few km were easy and here is the sticker infested sign. A real shame you can no longer read it. It is at 1,139 metres. Certainly not as high as the alp climbs, but a 19 km climb and still good altitude.

We stopped at a cafe buying cold drinks and glasses of ice.

It was now 28c.

Over the road, a variety of outdoor activities including toboggans.

An awesome descent on an even better seal. Lovely Vosge valley views.

Rock tunnels.

Tony taking photos at a lookout.

Getting low now.

Munster is the first larger town. Lots of cobbles that were not laid on a flat surface. Terrible rollercoaster through one section that rattle your teeth.

Some nice buildings in town.

A big cow!

Further on we pulled into Turckheim and spent about an hour in a shady spot we found.

We could not check into our accommodation until 3 pm. Bit of a quandary given the heat forecast. We trimmed our ride back 20 km or so to minimise the impact.

After an hour, the sun was hitting our legs, and a pigeon had schat on my head. Tony’s aunt tells me that is good luck!

We rode on through a few villages getting closer to our destination.

The village of Wettolsheim was quiet.

So quiet, it has a silence office!

Riding in through vineyards to the next village.

Eguisheim is larger, cobbled, narrow and dead end alley ways but some lovely buildings.

At the church, there are a few strategically located stork nests, with the chicks peeking out.

Here I am in the shade. It is now in the high 30’s. We are only about 5 km or so away but a hill to climb. No avoiding it.

Totally melted. Where are those 10 icy poles?

Back through more vineyards.

Climbing up the 150 metres ascent in 38c. It is very hot in the open with no shade. Tough little climb.

Thank goodness. I could almost sit under that water.

We have more time to kill so check out the village of Vœgtlinshoffen. The bakery has closed, and the only thing around are wineries. None of those seem open to buy non alcoholic drinks.

Dinner is looking sparse. How many snickers bars and nuts do we have?

3 pm we check in. The unit is air conditioned and cool. We shower and use the washing machine, drying our clothes in no time.

I go over Internet maps and see the possibility of a pop up pizza van at 5 pm, but alas it did not appear.

The owners tell us it should be there at 6 pm. It is still stinking hot as we walk up the short hill for the second time.

It was there and we ordered two pizza and four drinks, had to collect 30 minutes later. A third walk up the hill in the heat.

We ate half the pizza and the remainder tonight, but hopefully can bring some other food back that won’t spoil.

We have now ridden 3,121 km, two days remaining.

We are likely to modify the rides and start times to cope with the continued heat warnings.

Thanks for reading.

Day 34: Mittersheim to Plainfaing

The weather forecast was for a hot day. It was 18c when we left, a nice riding temperature.

I looked up at the kitchen window and noted the date. 1783. If only the walls could talk.

Back to the canal path, a series of lakes opened up, with camping areas available.

Following canals means locks. Most of the locks have an old home adjacent. Some are renovated and being occupied, others are more dilapidated.

More lakes and canals.

Then this. Some engineering bright spark thought this might be good for cyclists. Unlikely to have tested it before construction.

This is a first for us. Never have we see one quite like it. Yes we have pushed bikes up the tyre rails, but not this steep.

There are 34 steps either side.

We needed to remove all our luggage and transfer it across in three trips. The bikes two trips.

A nice view from the top.

Just as we were starting to repack our bikes, two younger blokes on e-bikes turned up. They had huge back packs and one had this trailer.

They got their bikes over to where we were, huffing, puffing and cursing but the trailer was going to be a task.

I can see a few trips there, plus both will have to carry the trailer up and down the stairs.

Back on track, the day was getting g warmer.

We have a variety of surfaces. This one ended up with 10% climb, so yes, I pushed further up.

The roads, in most parts, were rolling and well formed, cutting through farms.

A village installation.

Looks like an old bunker.

Some people with a curious sense of humour.

The ubiquitous war memorials.

Left over tanks on display.

We climbed up through a heavily forested area. Pierre Percee lake is the largest in Lorraine. From the air, it apparently has the shape of a maple leaf.

Lots of outdoor activities in the area from bushwalking, swimming and base jumping.

It is an artificial lake, with a dam at one end.

The view from the dam.

Overall we were still climbing, but there are invariable descents, so we can climb again.

We laughed, thinking it reminded us of our local Bass Highway patchwork. It was ok to ride on as most of the joins were smooth.

The forests gave us some reprieve from the heat, now sitting at 32c.

Climbs were hot work.

Open pastures and villages.

We found an Aldi. Melting, we wanted lemon gelato, but found this instead. 2.58 euro and we downed all 10. They were half size, but nice and cold.

Promotional deer.

As we neared our destination, the last hour we were beaten. The heat and sweat had flagged us. We counted down the km. We stopped lots to keep drinking. From 70 km to our finish at 107 km we climbed. Not difficult but draining in the heat as we got no reprieves.

Someone has collected many bikes, even more signs and displayed along the side fence.

We are now in Plainfang, a small village in the Vosges mountains.

The Marie

The only current guests in a small velo accredited hotel guesthouse, we seem to have the first floor to ourselves, including a kitchen.

We purchased more drinks, then headed to the local eatery as the mobile app said it was open. It was not. In fact, doubt it’s been open for years. It’s boarded up and the building is for sale.

That meant a walk to the next village, 3 km round trip not bad, but in still 32c heat.

We walk past this place being cleaned up outside. A renovators delight for sure.

I’ve zoomed out from the map, to show our relative position to Switzerland. Basel is in sight.

We will have to make adjustments to our final three days. Extreme weather warnings have been issued with temperatures up to 38c.

We have a mountain to cross tomorrow then descend to relative open flats.

We are thinking….safety first and 32c was too much for these Tasmanians.

Anyhow, day by day.

We have now passed the 3,000 km round trip mark, with 3,058 km. No mean feat.

Thanks for reading ❣️🚴

Day 33: Saarlouis to Mittersheim

It was very busy at breakfast. A Special Olympics group were in with their minders. One of the athletes said ‘morgen’, in the loudest voice, to everyone entering. He was happy and we can all learn something from his L carefree attitude to the day ahead.

Certainly the previous day we rode the prettiest part of the Saar river.

The first half of today’s 89 km ride was heavily industrialised. Not all we see is nice.

Saarstahl dominates with multiple steel manufacturing sites.

You can’t avoid ugly in our long trips

There are pockets of peace.

We started in Germany but at an unidentified point crossed into France.

We found one flag flying along with the Eu flag. This is at a lock. We rode past many locks today.

A canoe centre with nice art work.

Villages and towns dotted the river.

We liked this one.

A closer view of this boat, noting the water reflection. Quite clever.

The river was to our left and now we were on a canal path. A very shallow and green canal.

The canal path was very quiet and peaceful, with little other users. There was an occasional runner or walker, and a handful of cyclists.

It was very quiet with little traffic noise.

The riding was easy so we chillaxed.

Check-in was not until 5 pm today and we were likely to reach Mittersheim with hours to spare.

Chapel high up the hill.

The Maginot Line was a French military failure. It was developed after the French lost 1.4 million troops in WW1. It was designed to force invading armies to move around the fortified eastern front, towards Belgium where the French troops would be waiting.

The French also assumed the Ardennes were impassable.

In 1940, the German army pushed through the Ardennes, bypassed the fortifications, attacked from behind leading to the fall of France.

We’ve seen many on this trip. This one is locked and adjacent to the river.

The board shows additional structures over the river. Only the piers remain today.

I liked this vista.

The Swan family made us smile, with their three youngsters in the slipstream, safe.

We are near the end of the Vallee de la Sarre. Regular boards along the way, pointing out local features.

Not far to go now.

We arrive three hours early and park ourselves by the canal, under cover.

We were delighted to receive a message that we could check in two hours early as the lady was back from an appointment.

We were only 450 metres away, so arrived at 3 pm.

Our host is a younger woman, Ariane, who through Air BNB lets her private unit out. It is a barn like renovation. She lives with her mother in another part.

Mother for a fee, cooks dinner and breakfast.

This is the renovated barn.

Up the spiral staircase
Looking down and towards her other section
Nice backyard

We had an amazing three course meal, plus gifted a bottle of homemade apple juice and a cheese platter with local cheeses.

It’s been wonderful to chat with Ariane too.

Tomorrow is a tougher day as we start two days of climbing and traversing the Vosges Mountains. Another heatwave is on the way too.

We have now ridden just under 3,000 km, four days cycling left to conclude this wonderful adventure.

Thanks for reading.

Day 32: Luxembourg City to Saarlouis

Today was a perfect day for bike touring. The weather forecast looked great, the route interesting, and we were raring to go after an early breakfast.

Leaving our accommodation opposite the airport was a bit hairy, but after 2-3 km it settled down to villages and rural roads.

There were a couple of climbs, with roadworks stopping me a few hundred metres from the top (red light).

We were heading back towards the Moselle valley and the border with Germany.

Near the top of one of the climbs
I find the wheat fields quite mesmerising
Shadows along country laneways
Open fields, more wheat
Narrow stone bridges

Ahead of us is a very steep, descent. The greenery is the area around the Moselle, at the bottom of the hill. The other side, Germany.

Grapevines, still in Luxembourg

It is a very steep, controlled descent, riding the brakes hard.

Next thing, the Moselle River.

We rode the German side for the 12 -15 km or so we are about to do on the Luxembourg side.

Looking up at our final few Luxembourg vineyards.

The guy on the left operates a pedal boat fishing. We have seen a few of these on the river.

Some vineyards house fancy buildings. Bernard Massard is Luxembourg’s largest producer of sparkling wine.

Cute statue.

Bye Luxembourg and we’re back in Germany.

Just around the corner, German Police sat in a car. Must get boring.

Longer river view.

At the town on Konz, the river Saar enters. We bid the Moselle farewell, again, and start to follow the Saar, heading upstream.

It’s a super pretty river, much smaller than the Moselle, lots more greenery, quieter, less cycle traffic.

The ruins of the 10th century Saarburg castle. It fell into ruins in the 1800’s but the town has since renovated part. You can walk from town to obtain valley view.

Saarburg is a nice looking town, fairly busy with a few tourist buses in.

A small video Tony took here.

The water is not as green as it looks here, but the vegetation is thick and lush.

Despite being a longer ride day, we have made excellent progress. We decide to pull into the town of Mettlach to see what food we might find.

An impressive little town, with lots of references to Villeroy and Boch.

Turns out this old benadictine monastery has been their centre since the 1800’s. Outlet store and a museum all dedicated to V&B enthusiasts and collectors.

Imposing over the river.

My favourite section of the river ride was from Mettlach. It followed a loop and there were no cars, just a walking and cycle trail, along gravel.

Super peaceful and chillaxing.

The river Saar, so far, rates very highly and is ‘better’ than the Moselle.

We sat here and chilled more.

I ‘think’ this is a carving of someone on a bike.

We’re in Saarlouis now. A former medieval town that appears very modern.

The Yaxley flag is flying on the 3rd floor.

The oldest looking structure we could see in town when we went on our food hunt.

Our route map. Three countries evident.

More detail Strava : The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

112 km and just a beaut day.

Tomorrow we follow the river Saar further, and enter France.

Thanks for reading.

Day 31: Echternach to Luxembourg City

The view out our bedroom window this morning. Gorgeous forests. If Luxembourg has a colour, it’d be green.

First to breakfast 😊 we filled ourselves up.

We took our time leaving today as it was a shorter day of 70 km.

We rolled down and into Echternach to join the so called ‘ancient’ trail to Luxembourg City.

Within a km or so, there was a deviation in place and an absolute shite of a hill climb. It was so steep that I pushed my bike the first km. It had pinches of up to 18%.

Pushing my bike I do query our pugilistic choices. Or perhaps a non cycling engineer with a devious mind thought this detour would be ‘fun’.?

Tony? He did ride it but stopped 3 times…he called it some ‘bad words’ too 🙈🤣.

I was able to ride the last third of it, some consolation.

The nasty climb is that first rise around 5 km. You can see it’s far uglier than the rest.

A few photos.

This section is particularly steep, but photos never show the true incline.

Over the top, down and around, and it was then a lovely ride.

The area we are now in is referred to as the Petite Suisse Luxembourgoise. Very fancy!

The surrounding forests are lush, with interesting geology and canyons. The sun was in the wrong position for some of the great spots.

Back across farmland.

Through villages. There is an interesting story re this bomb.

Each village we pass through has an Information board with local history and points of interest.

Another tunnel. A bit longer than yesterday. Our bike computers do not work in tunnels as they loose satellite links.

Part way through this tunnel, there are many large photographs-art.

Beautiful vistas.

Local media towers

Cute train.

More forests. This one has an autobahn just to the left. You can hear it, but keeping such vegetation verges is brilliant. The forest goes a long way to the right.

Luxembourg City on a Sunday was fairly quiet. We pass many very modern office blocks, streets are empty.

Then their local performing arts centre stood out.

Further on we cross a bridge and stop! Looked down. Holy mackerel.

This is a two tiered city. Upper and lower levels. That’s a long way down!

We weave our way through multiple parks. People are quietly enjoying their time here. No ‘yahooing’, music in any of the parks we rode through.

Snaps of a few upper level buildings.

Getting lower.

We cross a popular small bridge. Views either side. Lots of people getting selfies here.

The streets are now more little lanes and alleys, cobbled and not the best place for two touring bikes.

Think the lower region best for walking and wandering.

We head out along the river way. More interesting geology.

Then there was this bunch of Luxemburgers. I did not make that word up. I did ask what a group from Luxembourg are referred to.

We met them when they asked for assistance with low pressure in one of the bikes tyres. They are a bunch of local friends out for a Sunday ride together.

I hope they enjoyed their ride!

We kept following the river for many km, deviating to visit this shop.

Non cyclists, Andy won the Tour de France in 2010, runner up twice.

Since retiring, he opened this bike shop that includes a small memorabilia museum. Being a Sunday, it was closed.

We pedalled on.

Next stop. The impressive Luxembourg American War Cemetery.

It has heavy security. Here I am chatting with the military.

Bikes are not allowed. So I babysat them whilst Tony took a look, camera in hand.

Over 5,000 US troops are buried here. Their leader, General George Patton asked to be buried with his men. He faces his troops.

We are only 3 km from our overnight stay, near the airport.

Life got difficult. There was a large roundabout with traffic coming off the autobahn, and other major roads. We just needed to be on the airport road. We walked our bikes over multiple sections as it was the only safe navigation possible.

We cussed. We double checked routes on the bike computer. We were right but …shite!!!

Finally riding along the airport road, we arrive. Bikes are in our small room. Bit poky but it’s just one night.

Luxembourg is an interesting country. It does a lot well. There are other areas lacking, such as a safe cycle route to the airport!

On the old ancient path today at regular intervals there were toilets, tools, water, seating, shelter.

The paths, and roads are all pretty schmick, well except when cobbles exist. Still hard riding on.

Tomorrow we leave Luxembourg, but still a distance to ride.

Thanks for reading.

The bikes are under the window. Acting as a clothes horse.

Today’s route, south westerly to Luxembourg City.

You can see the next two countries we visit. Germany and France.

Thanks for reading. 😊❣️

Day 30: Sankt Vith to Echternach

It wasn’t raining. None mentioned in the forecast. Grey skies and about 12c when we head out of a very quiet Sankt Vith.

Our overnight did not provide breakfast so Tony walked to a bakery whilst I did the blog.

We needed more food and hoped to grab some along the way.

Leaving town, an interesting statue and close by, information board, milk urns.

Back onto the Vennbahn, and a tunnel. It lights up as you go through. Not particularly long.

Creek from the bridge as we ride to the tunnel.

These signs are every km. So here we are at the 100 km mark. Just 25 km left along this pathway.

Nice rivers.

Interesting sign, translates to “wild garbage, no thanks”.

I have expanded the first part of our route, from the start to Troisvierges. We crossed three countries in this time.

Close to the border with Luxembourg.

I guess we are in Luxembourg. One of the few Grand Dutchy’s remaining, and the EU’s richest per citizen. Its population is small with just under 700,000 people.

We still had some km to complete the trail.

It’s a seriously hilly country as we discovered after coming off the rail trail.

Firstly we found food. We ordered pancakes and mixed fruits at a local cafe with a coffee, and filled the gaps.

Then our day was a series of shorter, sharp climbs interspersed with nasty, shite 18, 22, 24% rises here and there.

Now for me I can’t ride my loaded bike, safely, above 10%. The risk is falling not being able to uncleat my shoes under load.

Just not worth the risk. So I push, and yesterday I did quite a few, short, sharp pushes cursing.

They have multiple signs around with these gradients before you even hit them.

There were some similar descents, and they were ever slow!

In between, there were magnificent views across fields, for a great distance, as the day was glorious.

It was windy, but just a lovely day on the bike.

Tony is in there

Climbing….we did a lot today, around 1050 metres, the most this trip. Some done on paths, some on major roads.

Some nice buildings.

Luxembourg might not have mountains but it has the Ardennes. It is known for its forests and valleys and WW2 Battle of the Bulge.

We bypassed the famous Clervaux castle town, as we headed towards the just as famous Vianden.

I did feel intimidated on one major road section. We had just come out of a 22% push and I looked at the road and groaned. Nice road, two lanes, speed limit 130 kmh and a 7% gradient.

No verge! So up I go, making my way to the top with some very fast cars roaring past. Most were good and moved into the left lane giving me good, safe space. A few stayed closer.

At the top a bike path was to the side from a merging road, over a one metre barrier. Lucky Tony is strong enough to lift the bikes over.

The rest of the day, with a few exceptions, was cycle path or quieter roads. Some views.

We climbed to this spot, Tony noting the nice cars. The lookout is at a lake we were to cycle around, but we saw nothing. We both felt water spray though.

Ultimately we descended, it was a great one. Beautiful road seal, through dense forest. Then a window opened.

Vianden castle. High above the town of the same name. Built between the 11th and 14th centuries. Destroyed over time by fire, earthquake, neglect then sold off for its parts, it was restored in the late 1970’s by the state.

Victor Hugo (French author, playwright etc, Hunchback of NotreDam), lived here for three months in the in the 1870’s . He is celebrated in town still.

Looking down across the town.

This area was the last place in Luxembourg to be freed from the Germans, by the USA, in WW2. It is celebrated at this vantage point.

In the town, so many cobbles. The town must have got a good deal as my brain and teeth rattled. The cobbles went on and on.

Interesting statues.

Nice river.

A Victor Hugo named building.

More river.

We left town, ended up in a rural hilly area again. These cows have wonderful pastures.

Lovely camping spots.

We ended up following the river for the last 8-10 km. We past a service station and grabbed a cool icy pole product, and cold drinks. It was 24c, and we really enjoyed them.

Fancy homes by the river.

What a day. 97 km, 1053 m climbing, is a solid bike touring day.

We are staying in a larger resort just out of Echternach, up a hill!!

I’d booked and paid for half board, so including dinner. It took 2 hours for 5 courses (3 courses very small size so fitted ok). The meal was delicious, overlooking some wedding celebrations.

Another great place.

I think Luxembourg is definitely an interesting cycling destination.

Today I finally felt I was feeling healthy again. Hooray ❣️😊

Day 29: Teuven to Sankt Vith

Ever heard the story about the meteorologists who got the forecast wrong? Nah, never happened has it 😝🤣

Today it rained and rained and rained. Not 30% chance of 0.25 mm this hour, or that.

It rained.

We sat eating our breakfast at our wonderful overnight in Teuven, by the window. Maybe in the next 30 minutes or so it works stop.

Keep eating Sharron.

Joao our host is a super interesting guy with a history that is from Portugal, Mozambique, Malawi and Belgium.

He cooked two extra bread rolls for us for our lunch and have us a bag. So very kind.

Cyclists, this is a great stopover point. The Kings Head Inn, Teuven.

We left, it was raining.

The first part of our ride headed south easterly, then north easterly, despite our ultimate destination being South.

This route to Aachen was lovely, despite the weather.

Much of it followed an old rail line.

Lots to do and see
More great signage

Dreilander, this is the official border of three countries. Belgium, Netherlands and Germany.

We rode on and up as our climbing started. This part is on the road.

This was not. It was a messy section.

We were in Germany, for two reasons.

Firstly I had hoped to see Aachen Cathedral, built around 800 AD by Charlemagne. It has an amazing octagonal dome, structural wonderpiece with extraordinary history.

Charlemagne’s throne where Holy Emperors were crowned, his burial site plus Barbarossa’s chandelier from the 12th century.

Even without the current weather and route, you need a good many hours, and that we did not have.

We need to come back to Aachen.

Some of the sites we did see.

Not the cathedral
Nor this, although impressive

The cathedral is huge, and hard to photograph.

Part of it

My lower body outside the cathedral. No one would let me in.

Mr right knee around my scar is bruising and a cut from my fall. Plus dirt.

We liked Aachen. It flowed well, no crazy car traffic. Plenty of wet cobbles slowing us.

It actually stopped raining for about the 20 or so minutes we were in Aachen, one of only a few rain breaks for the day.

Curious statues and advertising.

Cyclists red carpet.

We were heading to the Vennbahn, a Belgian initiative. One of Europes longest rail trail cycle paths, 125 km in length. It veres into Germany and ends in Luxembourg.

We were doing 92 km of it today, ending in St Vith (on top of the 24 km already ridden, making today 116 km).

As a rail trail it inclines at around 2%

That climbing starts at 24 km, and did not stop until just past 60 km.

2% is easy. But 38 km in the rain and wind, with the loaded bike, does add up. It was slow going today. Slow and steady.

Lots of rail curios.

Plenty of signage.

Places to stop.

Signage of what else is around.

Other entertainment

Bridges you go under.

Bridges you cross. This was about our second rain break and I harboured hopes it might be lifting. I was wrong, but this was a super pretty area looking down over.

The path ahead.

There were a few of these, all closed.

This is like a weather vane. Spins around, makes a noise.

Someone bored with a welder.

Getting closer.

The arch walls of this bridge are used for rock climbing.

We made it to Sankt Vith. A town that was annihilated by Allied bombing Christmas Day 1944, killing over 120 residents remaining and 1,000 troops (presume German).

It’s a modern town now. We needed to clean our bikes, ourselves, our luggage and a well located fountain by our accommodation aided.

It has water shoots last night. Must turn it off overnight.

It was a very long and slow day. Our butts had had enough.

I have a cadence sensor on my bike. It calculates how many pedal revolutions I make per minute. I did the numbers, and I did 30,080 pedal revolutions!

That’s a lot!!

We had a great meal at an English named restaurant, with the menu in French, drinks menu in German. It cost more than our accommodation but it was nice and just what we needed.

In nice weather, this would be a fantastic route. It was a great route in wet weather, but even better in sunny. We could see beauty across the fields and valleys, but the rain made photographing it limiting.

I think it rained about 100 out of 116 km today. The temperature was between 10-12c. With wet legs, and wind you’d think they’d get cold. As long as you keep your upper body warm and dry, then those those 30,080 revolutions keep the leg muscles warm.

I had multi layers on. Core body shirt, jersey, gilet, jacket then rain jacket. Rain cap under my helmet to reduce drops.

My glasses fogged up with rain and body heat. Leave on, leave off…helps protect your eyes from objects flying through the air, bugs, stuff flicked up by cars or other cyclists though.

Enough nutrition for energy still not right. Need to keep at it.

Thanks for reading.

Day 28: Namur to Teuven

A new day.

Down to breakfast at 7 am, the place was deserted. Most food was out, but just no one to be sighted. I called out ‘Bonjour’ lots and in the end, we just started eating.

About 15 minutes later the wine supervisor from the previous evening arrived and all he said was ‘coffee’?

That was his only communication with us. No offer of omelette or pancakes (per the info on our table), no students, no one.

It was weird and for 25 euro each, could have expected more.

We decided to take four slices of their nice whole grain bread, add the Liege white honey and make sandwiches for our day.

Mr wine man would not know as he had his back to us.

Later in the day retelling the story to our next host, he said, “ah, the Wallonia French, some we call French Loonies. They think they are better than us.”

It was a cold start at about 9C and we rolled down the wet roads into the city. It had rained overnight but the day looked fairly clear for us.

A few photos of Namur as we crossed the river Meuse.

The citadel
Looking back to the bridge was had just crossed, more of the fortifications.

The first section following the river was lovely. The Meuse is a major European river, starting in France and ultimately flowing into the North Sea, via the Rhine.

Nice riverside homes
Cliffs
More cliffs, the railway runs along the base
Interesting chateau high on the hill
More of the chateau

Fairly typical pathway today. It did vary, and we also weaved through a few villages and towns and the big city of Liege.

There were barriers, mud, climbs up and over bridges, but overall a pretty good path.

We weaved around a lot as the river weaves, so sometimes we had tail winds, other head or cross, but wind was not an issue today.

It was cool though and we added more clothes as required.

This was interesting. The path took us into the town of Huy, with a citadel sitting high above the river.

We decided to deviate to a cycle cafe, maybe 50 metres off route that we noted on our bike computer. We were 40 km in, and would seek a warm drink.

A few photos as we rode into town.

I ordered two hot chocolates, no cream (slag). This is what we got.

Sitting at the cafe, looking up at the Fort behind the church.

The current fort was built in the 1800’s, but there has been one there since the 9th century.

The German’s housed prisoners there during WW2 before transporting to concentration camps.😓

There is a cable car option for getting to the Fort.

The path eventually ended up back along the river. It became heavily industrialised for a significant portion.

There was a massive nuclear power plant we went around, with the most incredible security. The various levels of fencing deterrents, signage every 25 m or so advising no photographs, the cameras just everywhere.

There were interesting villages and cliffs in parts.

Our constant companions.

A mixture of both.

Liege was to be our largest city of the day. I knew nothing much about out the city except for the famous one day monument bike race, Liege-Bastogne-Liege.

What I know now, is not a lot more, but on the outskirts it has a heavily ethnic community. I went into a small shop to buy a bottle of drink and felt I’d walked into the wrong store. Five men sat around the small fridge and I felt quite intimidated and walked out.

We rode on and found a Lidl supermarket. I was the odd person out in a long queue, but had found drinks and some food items.

The trams run along this side of town which was super quiet. Eerily so. Grass grows between the tram tracks, and they mow it.

In the city, traffic was gridlocked. Just no one moved, backed up for long distances. We were not deviating to head to the more historic parts.

Photos as we made our way through.

Safely out of town, we noted this old Fort Navagne sign. The site of an old citadel.

Green grass fields now.

The latter part of the ride we crossed back into The Netherlands.We did 19 more Dutch km, and two registered climbs.

I was flagging energy wise by now, still not having my nutritional intake where it should be. I can still only eat smaller amounts without feeling nauseous. It’s improved heaps, but not enough for today’s 108 km energy requirements.

Me on one of the climbs.

Note the road markings. There are three lanes. One for cars, two for walkers/cyclists. The Dutch do it well.

Bit further one, the lanes are different colours. How do cars cope? They are patient and wait to cross and move on.

We pass through a few small Dutch villages.

Such a pretty area.

A Dutch flag flying high above a tall, spindly tree.

With 2 km remaining, we cross back into Belgium. One more small climb and we are in a small village, Teuven.

It has a decent sized church, a few cafes, pubs and our hotel.

The owner was outside doing some paving, and ushered us into the garage, where there were already guests bikes.

Apparently I booked the spa package? So we had the use of the spa room, so I did enjoy a nice spa, after a lovely meal next door.

Another 108 km done, 2500 km in total.

A confidence booster after the last few days. I just need to nail the food better.

We have a big few days coming up. Weather forecasts are somewhat contradictory but, what will be, will be.

Our route map, overall a NE trajectory but it’s going south quickly, as we enter the last 9 days and have to end up back in Switzerland, not even showing on this multi country map yet.

More route details on Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

Day 27: Mons to Namur

Breakfast was provided and it was an effort as the smell nauseated me and I ate little.

I soon had the runs….but at least I was not dizzy today!

We headed off, aiming to reach Charleroi, 58 km away, then to get the train for the last 52 km to Namur.

My Hr issues surfaced above 100 beats,. Concerning and annoying.

It was a really flat ride, and I was worried as our accommodation was up a hill requiring a 2.5 km, 5 percent gradient climb.

This was an interesting sight. The canal had a significant height level change. This is a mechanised boat lifter that lifts the boats up, or down to the other side.

On the higher side looking back.

The Strepy-Thieu funicular lift is the second largest boat lift in the world and its 73.15 metre incline is impressive.

The canal began operations in 1879 and its locks and lifts could accommodate vessels of up to 300 tonnes. This became inadequate when the European standard was 1350 tonnes.

It was completed in 2002 at a cost of 160 million euro.

Would love to have seen it in action but no barges in the immediate vicinity.

Charleroi is getting closer

We mainly rode on canal pathways today. The surfaces varied. There was the nice, smooth sealed sections. Then there were sections of concrete, getting bumpier. Then there were old seal sections where the adjacent tree roots had made it a very rough and bumpy ride.

We did not pass through any villages today so just a few photos along the way.

Nice sealed section
Nuclear power plant funnels

We made it to Charleroi. What a mess of a place that is. Crazy drivers, one cutting Tony off as he turned right, he rushed ahead to also turn right!!

We needed to cross a particular road and stood there for ages, until a kindly truck driver halted the traffic so we could cross.

Many truck drivers are like this.

Found the central railway station, found a ticket machine, and managed to purchase four tickets, two adults and two bikes.

Made it to platform 2, the coldest platform around with the headwind hitting it. It was a cold day of around 12c without the wind.

We waited about 35 minutes, the train arrived, and again, a conductor appeared who lifted my bike up and onto the train.

As we disembarked in Namur, another one turned up, and lifted it down.

Kudos and respect to these younger male conductors with Belgian Rail. We are beyond impressed with their assistance and kindness.

We did not get to check Namur out. Rain was incoming and we had a hill to climb.

That’s the hill I climbed. Not bad ordinarily, but given my heart rate issues, I was concerned.

Very satisfyingly I did the climb without any heart rate or nausea issues. I was super pleased as I pushed my body more than I had for days, and I felt fine!

A good indication that whatever drug interactions had occurred had left my body at long last.

We are staying in this chateau. Not a bad place. We are on the second floor and have a little dormer window,

It is a training school for hospitality, so at dinner we were served by students.

They are required to practice different languages to explain the food to the customer.

There are two ‘more senior’ men overseeing them and dealing with the wine.

The menu is set so I was required to have a minimum three course meal. I was not sure how that would go given my lack of food for a few days.

We both had a lobster and asparagus dish for entree, pork for main course and a dessert.

Fortunately the portions were not huge, more about the presentation on the plate. The food was very nice, I ate most, and felt ok.

It did drag on for two hours and we got upstairs at 9 am and I pretty well fell straight asleep.

Today’s routes, 63 km in total. I am ok with that, all things considered.

Tomorrow is a new day and a longer one again. We’ve some tougher days ahead with hills starting in a few days.the physical signs are positive though.

Thanks for reading.

More detail Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

Day 26: Lille to Mons

I slept overnight for 13 hours. Unheard of for me. I felt ‘not right’ but decided to give it a crack.

That turned out to be the wrong decision.

If my heart rate went above 100 I was very nauseous. My lung capacity felt reduced. I was dopey.

I gave it 10 km and we went to a rail station in Villeneuve d’Ascq, an outer suburb of Lille.

We spent an hour there. The girl said, using Google translator on her on her phone, we could not book the bikes on. Needed to do that on line.

Turns out, that station is not one that appears on Belgian Rail website to Mons.

So I either need to ride back to Lille, across all the shitty cobbles and traffic, or clear out on quieter paths to Tournai, over the Belgian border.

It seemed we could book bikes on from there, as we would have already crossed from France into Belgium. Same rail company though!

It was a slow crawl as I needed to stop regularly. I wanted to close my eyes.

I was concerned as I thought the anti histamines ‘should’ have left my body. The thing that ‘scared’ me the most was my lungs and nausea at 100 bpm.

That is not a high riding rate. Quite low. Thank goodness it was flat and we had a tail breeze.

Not many photos today as Tony was more concerned about getting me to Tournai.

We did stop here for a breather.

It was relief making it to Tournai. 31 hard earned km.

Tournai is one of Belgium’s oldest cities. We only got to see a few of the sites, taking a breather in the Markt.

The railway station is regarded as one of the most beautiful in Europe.

The French speaking man at the counter was very helpful. I was delighted to see four tickets spit out, and we only needed to wait about 40 minutes.

Down the stairs and then up the stairs to platform 2 was a challenge. I got downstairs ok, but upstairs was beyond me today. Fortunately Tony is strong 💪.

When the train arrived, the conductor actually took my bike and lifted it in. I was beyond grateful.

I was curious that all the on train communications, plus ticket office were in French. I have learned that there is a French speaking part of Belgium, and also a German speaking part, as well as Dutch.

Maybe 45 minutes later we were in Mons. I just closed my eyes.

Mons railway station is like nothing else I’ve ever seen. Futuristic, super modern, clean.

Photos I have copied.

We were too early to check in, so we stayed indoors at the station, sitting in a Starbucks, hot chocolate warming us up. I was intermittently shivery.

It was about another 2 km to our overnight stop. it was up a decent hill of 10%, cobbled! I pushed.

Along the way two photos.

Another interesting town, but after checking in, I went back to bed.

I later reluctantly got dressed to search for dinner. I was not hungry and not really eaten for two days, but have forced myself to eat a few things like grapes and banana. The thought of anything else is puke.

We walked through the main Markt place, rain closing in.

Tomorrow is another day. Will see how I pull up. Decisions then.

Thanks for reading ❣️🚴