Day 37: Vœgtlinshoffen to Stein

On June 21, 2026June 21, 2026 By Sharron YaxleyIn Europe10 Comments

The last day. One that I often feel melancholy about.

We were motivated by the heat to leave early. We were on the road by 6.25 am. Another hot day forecast.

It’s a great time of day to ride. The air is that bit fresher, no one is around.

Looking towards our destination. To the left, that’s the Black Forest region of Germany.

Ahead a series of villages, nestled between vineyards, at the base of the Vosge Mountain foothills.

The first village we ride to is Gueberschwihr. A gorgeous village, and one of my favourites. It also has a wonderful shop that opens at 6.30 am, Epicerie du Vignoble.

It sells a wonderful range of local products from cold meats, cheeses, boulangerie items, drinks, condiments and I have a ball selecting breakfast.

We eat outside in the shade by a fountain, with large carp hanging around looking for anything we might drop.

Some photos from this village.

It would seem that the locals park their cars in this square as the rest of the village is super narrow alleys and lanes.

I do love the overshop signage.

With our hunger satiated, we leave town this way.

Another string of German named French villages included Pfaffenheim, Rouffach, Merxheim, Raedersheim, Ungersheim, Ensisheim and Battenheim.

Riding between the villages, was my favourite part. Sometimes flat, sometimes rolling up and down.

Short video Tony took

Nice village fountain and older building.

Reckon this was in Ungersheim,😊

We reach the Canal du Rhone au Rhine, a 237 km canal connecting the Saone River to the Rhine River.

We’ve ridden parts of this canal before as it winds down through Dole and Bescanon, featured in our 2022 cycling odyssey.

The screw generator was working today. I’ve not seen one operating before. I’m intrigued by them, having had two clients in north west Tasmania looking at installing them on their rural properties. They both had creeks that featured a drop in levels.

The canal is peaceful and we did find a shady spot to chillax.

All roads were leading to the Rhine River, our way to finish line.

Huningue is where we say farewell to France. There is a bridge here across to Germany, but we keep riding into Switzerland.

I was low on water here. French water fountains are usually non potable water.

There is a popular canoe training spot in the canal.

We cross the border and here is our first Swiss fountain. The water is potable so we fill up. Very popular with many cyclists stopping.

Basel ahead. It is quite warm now at 34c.

On the left bank you can see a tall two tower building. That is Roche headquarters and Switzerlands tallest building. My son Ben has his office there.

Being such a hot day, and a Saturday, locals are making use of the cool waters of the Rhine.

The cathedral in the background, water skiing and swimmers mixing it together.

It is a popular activity to float down the river, get out, walk back, repeat.

By now, we are keen to finish and get out of the heat. It is slow going getting through Basel with people everywhere.

We cross underneath a large network of roads. It is familiar to us as we got lost here in 2016 on the London to Venice ride.

There is a supermarket on one side that we head over to and purchase more cold drinks and some food, standing in the shade to consume.

We have about 35 km remaining.

We just do it! Stopping in the shade here and there, melting more as we go along.

There was no melancholy today. Just wanted to get there and out of the over bearing heat.

No more photos. No stopping in Rhinefelden (been there multiple times).

A few climbs sap us, but we arrive right back where we started, soaked in sweat, thankful for the cool garage at my son’s place.

It was 36c when we finished.

The bikes are as we left them upon arrival.

That is our next job, to clean and pack them for the long haul trip home.

Late afternoon we walk down the hill, through Stein and across the bridge to Germany (Bad Sackingen) where we find icecream then dinner, yes in that order.

Our final days route. In the last two days we found a better map app to show our route.

We are very pleased that we have done the trip, more or less as planned. Whilst we had the hiccup of my health issues after the fall, we were able to tweak and keep moving forward.

The trip does not just happen.

You have to put the work into being fit enough in the first place to ride 3,300 km.

We have averaged 89 km per day for 37 consecutive days.

That is a tough ask on two 64 year olds, one having had open heart surgery.

We are thankful it all worked out.

Mechanically, no issues. No punctures.

A lifetime of memories, wonderful friends we’ve caught up with, so much we have seen, heard, smelt on the bike.

It sustains us until next time.

To those who support us, thankyou. Your messages via pm and comments on the blog and fb are appreciated.

I’ve been asked, what is next?

Ooh that will narrow down in the next few months. There are about five concepts running through this little head of mine.

Now it’s time to go home, get Khaleesi, bitch about the cold and rain, get back to work.

Ooroo 😊🚴💪❣️

Day 36: Vosges villages and vineyards

On June 20, 2026 By Sharron YaxleyIn Europe5 Comments

A beautiful sunrise, looking out our back deck, towards the vineyards, and Germany’s Black Forest.

The weather forecast…hot, hot, hot.

We needed food, having had only coffee, and the local bakery not yet open. So we set off at about 6.45 on our day ride. It was 24C already.

This Air BnB is great, but the second B does not exist.

Today we would ride through many villages in the Alsace region of France. Half timbered buildings with incredible history, rolling hills, vineyards.

There are so many villages, and I’m sure to get photos wrong. We rode through … Husseren-les-Chateaux, Enguisheim, Wettolsheim, Wintzenheim, Turckheim, Ingersheim, Katzenthal, Ammerschwihr, Kayserberg, Riquewihr, Hunawinr, Ribeauville, Bergheim, Rorschwihir, Saint Hippolyte, Bergheim, Bennwihr, Colmar and Obermorschwihr.

Phew…I knew there were a lot of them!

Here is our route map.

More detail Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

We went straight into a climb up to Husseren-Les-Chateaux. No warming the legs up.

This was at the top of that climb.

Nice views, although the air quality was not great in the distance.

The first half of the ride today, we went up, we went down. Good to do 6 of the rated climbs before it got unbearably hot.

There was a common theme. Cute villages, quirky features, half timbered, cobbles, narrow streets, all around ‘centerville’.

The approaches to the villages was excellent.

We found food in Kayserberg, and we sat in a shady spot by the river, that I knew about, as I’d sat there in 2019 on a solo ride ( I was visiting Ben and did a day trip to this area).

Back then, it was crowded with tourists, but today the tourists had not yet arrived! So we enjoyed 30 minutes in relative peace.

The photos, just going to roll with them.

Chateau de Kayserberg ruins, looking back as we left, riding along a vineyard route.

Narrow streets, cars go both ways in these streets.

This was the start of a climb. Slippery cobbles.

Interesting, not sure of the story behind this one. Looks a bit out there for Joan of Arc.

Sunflowers just starting to open. Will be glorious in the next few weeks.

Wheat fields, contrasting with the vineyards

We made it into Colmar. It was now in the mid 30s. We’d had a few stops for drinks along the way but needed more liquid.

Neither of us had peed since leaving, a sure sign we still were not drinking enough. We were using rehydration tablets as well.

So a large supermache appeared by divine intervention. Liquids were consumed plus quite a large quantity of lemon gelato.

Sparkling water is a favourite.

Some of our purchase. Another three bottles of drink, plus protein foods.

Colmar was busy. A larger version of the smaller villages with heaps more tourists. We took photos then Tony said ‘no more’.

Pushing and slotting the bikes through crowds who have no spatial awareness is stressing.

The heat was overbearing.

So I present Colmar.

From Colmar it was about 10 km back. We did the first 6 km ok, then the last 4 was all climbing back up the hill.

With one km remaining (the steepest part), we stopped at the fountain in Obermorschwihr. We wet our heads, necks, chest, back with the non potable water.

It helped.

We made it to the top. My Hammerhead said 45c ( it was not that hot but the direct heat onto it was unabated with no trees).

It was a great 75 km loop today but the heat is not tolerable.

We have sat inside in the air conditioned unit and got ourselves ready for an earlier start for our final day.

It’s going to be another hot one!

Day 35: Plainfaing to Vœgtlinshoffen

On June 19, 2026June 19, 2026 By Sharron YaxleyIn Europe2 Comments

We knew today was likely to be tougher, courtesy of the extreme weather forecasts in France currently.

We are not hot weather riders, period!

We had a nice French breakfast hosted by our lodge owner, a really friendly chap who has tried super hard.

He saw us off still smiling, surprised that we were turning left, not right.

Left goes up to Col de la Schlucht. We had to get over the Vosges to get back to Switzerland.

So we started climbing and kept climbing for 19 km. The first half far gentler than the second half.

Here’s our graph.

The weather was already a warm 21c.

The start, just a few hills at the back.

We climbed past this confectionery makers place.

Agricultural fields.

Forest.

A video Tony took early on.

Climbing comfortably.

Nice little church.

The first half were gradients under 5%. I could see from the graph that the second half would be tougher as the graph was yellow and read, so 5-10%.

The road was in good condition.

About 2 km from the top you reach a large junction, we turned left.

There was a shady spot and it seemed to be where all the cyclists rested before finishing the climb.

The last few km were easy and here is the sticker infested sign. A real shame you can no longer read it. It is at 1,139 metres. Certainly not as high as the alp climbs, but a 19 km climb and still good altitude.

We stopped at a cafe buying cold drinks and glasses of ice.

It was now 28c.

Over the road, a variety of outdoor activities including toboggans.

An awesome descent on an even better seal. Lovely Vosge valley views.

Rock tunnels.

Tony taking photos at a lookout.

Getting low now.

Munster is the first larger town. Lots of cobbles that were not laid on a flat surface. Terrible rollercoaster through one section that rattle your teeth.

Some nice buildings in town.

A big cow!

Further on we pulled into Turckheim and spent about an hour in a shady spot we found.

We could not check into our accommodation until 3 pm. Bit of a quandary given the heat forecast. We trimmed our ride back 20 km or so to minimise the impact.

After an hour, the sun was hitting our legs, and a pigeon had schat on my head. Tony’s aunt tells me that is good luck!

We rode on through a few villages getting closer to our destination.

The village of Wettolsheim was quiet.

So quiet, it has a silence office!

Riding in through vineyards to the next village.

Eguisheim is larger, cobbled, narrow and dead end alley ways but some lovely buildings.

At the church, there are a few strategically located stork nests, with the chicks peeking out.

Here I am in the shade. It is now in the high 30’s. We are only about 5 km or so away but a hill to climb. No avoiding it.

Totally melted. Where are those 10 icy poles?

Back through more vineyards.

Climbing up the 150 metres ascent in 38c. It is very hot in the open with no shade. Tough little climb.

Thank goodness. I could almost sit under that water.

We have more time to kill so check out the village of Vœgtlinshoffen. The bakery has closed, and the only thing around are wineries. None of those seem open to buy non alcoholic drinks.

Dinner is looking sparse. How many snickers bars and nuts do we have?

3 pm we check in. The unit is air conditioned and cool. We shower and use the washing machine, drying our clothes in no time.

I go over Internet maps and see the possibility of a pop up pizza van at 5 pm, but alas it did not appear.

The owners tell us it should be there at 6 pm. It is still stinking hot as we walk up the short hill for the second time.

It was there and we ordered two pizza and four drinks, had to collect 30 minutes later. A third walk up the hill in the heat.

We ate half the pizza and the remainder tonight, but hopefully can bring some other food back that won’t spoil.

We have now ridden 3,121 km, two days remaining.

We are likely to modify the rides and start times to cope with the continued heat warnings.

Thanks for reading.

Day 34: Mittersheim to Plainfaing

On June 18, 2026 By Sharron YaxleyIn Europe2 Comments

The weather forecast was for a hot day. It was 18c when we left, a nice riding temperature.

I looked up at the kitchen window and noted the date. 1783. If only the walls could talk.

Back to the canal path, a series of lakes opened up, with camping areas available.

Following canals means locks. Most of the locks have an old home adjacent. Some are renovated and being occupied, others are more dilapidated.

More lakes and canals.

Then this. Some engineering bright spark thought this might be good for cyclists. Unlikely to have tested it before construction.

This is a first for us. Never have we see one quite like it. Yes we have pushed bikes up the tyre rails, but not this steep.

There are 34 steps either side.

We needed to remove all our luggage and transfer it across in three trips. The bikes two trips.

A nice view from the top.

Just as we were starting to repack our bikes, two younger blokes on e-bikes turned up. They had huge back packs and one had this trailer.

They got their bikes over to where we were, huffing, puffing and cursing but the trailer was going to be a task.

I can see a few trips there, plus both will have to carry the trailer up and down the stairs.

Back on track, the day was getting g warmer.

We have a variety of surfaces. This one ended up with 10% climb, so yes, I pushed further up.

The roads, in most parts, were rolling and well formed, cutting through farms.

A village installation.

Looks like an old bunker.

Some people with a curious sense of humour.

The ubiquitous war memorials.

Left over tanks on display.

We climbed up through a heavily forested area. Pierre Percee lake is the largest in Lorraine. From the air, it apparently has the shape of a maple leaf.

Lots of outdoor activities in the area from bushwalking, swimming and base jumping.

It is an artificial lake, with a dam at one end.

The view from the dam.

Overall we were still climbing, but there are invariable descents, so we can climb again.

We laughed, thinking it reminded us of our local Bass Highway patchwork. It was ok to ride on as most of the joins were smooth.

The forests gave us some reprieve from the heat, now sitting at 32c.

Climbs were hot work.

Open pastures and villages.

We found an Aldi. Melting, we wanted lemon gelato, but found this instead. 2.58 euro and we downed all 10. They were half size, but nice and cold.

Promotional deer.

As we neared our destination, the last hour we were beaten. The heat and sweat had flagged us. We counted down the km. We stopped lots to keep drinking. From 70 km to our finish at 107 km we climbed. Not difficult but draining in the heat as we got no reprieves.

Someone has collected many bikes, even more signs and displayed along the side fence.

We are now in Plainfang, a small village in the Vosges mountains.

The only current guests in a small velo accredited hotel guesthouse, we seem to have the first floor to ourselves, including a kitchen.

We purchased more drinks, then headed to the local eatery as the mobile app said it was open. It was not. In fact, doubt it’s been open for years. It’s boarded up and the building is for sale.

That meant a walk to the next village, 3 km round trip not bad, but in still 32c heat.

We walk past this place being cleaned up outside. A renovators delight for sure.

I’ve zoomed out from the map, to show our relative position to Switzerland. Basel is in sight.

We will have to make adjustments to our final three days. Extreme weather warnings have been issued with temperatures up to 38c.

We have a mountain to cross tomorrow then descend to relative open flats.

We are thinking….safety first and 32c was too much for these Tasmanians.

Anyhow, day by day.

We have now passed the 3,000 km round trip mark, with 3,058 km. No mean feat.

Thanks for reading ❣️🚴

Day 33: Saarlouis to Mittersheim

On June 17, 2026 By Sharron YaxleyIn EuropeLeave a comment

It was very busy at breakfast. A Special Olympics group were in with their minders. One of the athletes said ‘morgen’, in the loudest voice, to everyone entering. He was happy and we can all learn something from his L carefree attitude to the day ahead.

Certainly the previous day we rode the prettiest part of the Saar river.

The first half of today’s 89 km ride was heavily industrialised. Not all we see is nice.

Saarstahl dominates with multiple steel manufacturing sites.

There are pockets of peace.

We started in Germany but at an unidentified point crossed into France.

We found one flag flying along with the Eu flag. This is at a lock. We rode past many locks today.

A canoe centre with nice art work.

Villages and towns dotted the river.

We liked this one.

A closer view of this boat, noting the water reflection. Quite clever.

The river was to our left and now we were on a canal path. A very shallow and green canal.

The canal path was very quiet and peaceful, with little other users. There was an occasional runner or walker, and a handful of cyclists.

It was very quiet with little traffic noise.

The riding was easy so we chillaxed.

Check-in was not until 5 pm today and we were likely to reach Mittersheim with hours to spare.

Chapel high up the hill.

The Maginot Line was a French military failure. It was developed after the French lost 1.4 million troops in WW1. It was designed to force invading armies to move around the fortified eastern front, towards Belgium where the French troops would be waiting.

The French also assumed the Ardennes were impassable.

In 1940, the German army pushed through the Ardennes, bypassed the fortifications, attacked from behind leading to the fall of France.

We’ve seen many on this trip. This one is locked and adjacent to the river.

The board shows additional structures over the river. Only the piers remain today.

I liked this vista.

The Swan family made us smile, with their three youngsters in the slipstream, safe.

We are near the end of the Vallee de la Sarre. Regular boards along the way, pointing out local features.

Not far to go now.

We arrive three hours early and park ourselves by the canal, under cover.

We were delighted to receive a message that we could check in two hours early as the lady was back from an appointment.

We were only 450 metres away, so arrived at 3 pm.

Our host is a younger woman, Ariane, who through Air BNB lets her private unit out. It is a barn like renovation. She lives with her mother in another part.

Mother for a fee, cooks dinner and breakfast.

This is the renovated barn.

Looking down and towards her other section

We had an amazing three course meal, plus gifted a bottle of homemade apple juice and a cheese platter with local cheeses.

It’s been wonderful to chat with Ariane too.

Tomorrow is a tougher day as we start two days of climbing and traversing the Vosges Mountains. Another heatwave is on the way too.

We have now ridden just under 3,000 km, four days cycling left to conclude this wonderful adventure.

Thanks for reading.

Day 26: Lille to Mons

On June 10, 2026 By Sharron YaxleyIn Europe4 Comments

I slept overnight for 13 hours. Unheard of for me. I felt ‘not right’ but decided to give it a crack.

That turned out to be the wrong decision.

If my heart rate went above 100 I was very nauseous. My lung capacity felt reduced. I was dopey.

I gave it 10 km and we went to a rail station in Villeneuve d’Ascq, an outer suburb of Lille.

We spent an hour there. The girl said, using Google translator on her on her phone, we could not book the bikes on. Needed to do that on line.

Turns out, that station is not one that appears on Belgian Rail website to Mons.

So I either need to ride back to Lille, across all the shitty cobbles and traffic, or clear out on quieter paths to Tournai, over the Belgian border.

It seemed we could book bikes on from there, as we would have already crossed from France into Belgium. Same rail company though!

It was a slow crawl as I needed to stop regularly. I wanted to close my eyes.

I was concerned as I thought the anti histamines ‘should’ have left my body. The thing that ‘scared’ me the most was my lungs and nausea at 100 bpm.

That is not a high riding rate. Quite low. Thank goodness it was flat and we had a tail breeze.

Not many photos today as Tony was more concerned about getting me to Tournai.

We did stop here for a breather.

It was relief making it to Tournai. 31 hard earned km.

Tournai is one of Belgium’s oldest cities. We only got to see a few of the sites, taking a breather in the Markt.

The railway station is regarded as one of the most beautiful in Europe.

The French speaking man at the counter was very helpful. I was delighted to see four tickets spit out, and we only needed to wait about 40 minutes.

Down the stairs and then up the stairs to platform 2 was a challenge. I got downstairs ok, but upstairs was beyond me today. Fortunately Tony is strong 💪.

When the train arrived, the conductor actually took my bike and lifted it in. I was beyond grateful.

I was curious that all the on train communications, plus ticket office were in French. I have learned that there is a French speaking part of Belgium, and also a German speaking part, as well as Dutch.

Maybe 45 minutes later we were in Mons. I just closed my eyes.

Mons railway station is like nothing else I’ve ever seen. Futuristic, super modern, clean.

Photos I have copied.

We were too early to check in, so we stayed indoors at the station, sitting in a Starbucks, hot chocolate warming us up. I was intermittently shivery.

It was about another 2 km to our overnight stop. it was up a decent hill of 10%, cobbled! I pushed.

Along the way two photos.

Another interesting town, but after checking in, I went back to bed.

I later reluctantly got dressed to search for dinner. I was not hungry and not really eaten for two days, but have forced myself to eat a few things like grapes and banana. The thought of anything else is puke.

We walked through the main Markt place, rain closing in.

Tomorrow is another day. Will see how I pull up. Decisions then.

Thanks for reading ❣️🚴

Day 24: Ghent to Lille

On June 8, 2026 By Sharron YaxleyIn EuropeLeave a comment

We were staying fairly close to the Markt square area, maybe 250 m walk away. Looking out from our balcony you would not know that.

Our host Ben rocked up with fresh fruit and pastry items for breakfast. A really nice guy.

The weather was a cool 12 degrees.

Soon we were off, loosely following the Bovenschelde Canal, that starts up in the Netherlands around Terneuzen (where we caught a ferry to days earlier).

We passed through some nice villages.

A roundabout showing a typical bike path around it. Cars give way, unlike home where you are mixing it with the cars. Cyclists safety taken far more seriously here.

Some people say, oh but their roads are better. Nope, often narrower. This roundabout a perfect example.

Today the pack cyclists were out in force. If there was a bike path, they were on it.

The Australian standard is 2.5 metres for a cycle path. No wonder we do not have many. Here we’ve been on some very narrow ones and passed, or waited for the pack cyclists, or other users.

Local brewery with statue.

Local church. I like the pointy spires.

We stop in Oudenaarde for lunch eating leftover breakfast. A lovely fresh baguette with banana.

A nice looking town. We did not venture into the town markt. We could hear loud music, and people were crossing the bridge towards it and we tonight ‘nah’.

The town has a history back to around 900 bc.

The Tour of Flanders is an annual prestigious cycling event and there is a museum in town.

Views from lunch.

This was in our direct vision 10 metres from the fountain. Make of it what you will. Bit freaky. It is named ‘Titus’.

We then followed a very decent path out of town and through lovely agricultural fields. Wheat and potatoes seemed to be growing.

To our left (east) we saw hills for the first time in weeks really. The Ardennes.

A historical area with a sad military history but the location of many events including cycling.

Ronde van Vlaanderers, also known as the Tour of Flanders, is a gruelling one day monument cycling event.

270 km for men, 170 for women it is renowned for its steep cobbled climbs and punishing crosswinds.

Tadej Pogacar and Mathieu van der Poel have won it six out of the last seven editions.

Arguably the toughest climb is the Koopenberg. It is relentless and has seen far too many accidents and pile ups. Cyclists are often pushing their bikes up.

Turn left? Not on your sweet Nellie! Iconic, yes, but we are on loaded bikes and if the pro’s push their bikes up then why would we try?

If we were centred around here for a few days and could ride unladen, perhaps we would have a look. But we are not, and cobbles are my least preferred surface given my rib bone breakage history.

Back on track!

Cyclists yielding and checking traffic before crossing.

Small group pass by.

We followed the canal for 13 km section, mainly into headwinds.

The cyclists coming the other way were flying. So many had disc wheels (solid covered in type) that make a certain ‘whop whop’ sound. They were doing 40 km ish with the benefit of a tail wind.

Interesting observation. There were very few casual riders along here out for a Sunday ride on their e-bikes. Just did not see them. I am wondering if they avoid this section given the powerful packs that were powering through seeking fast times.

It was being treated like an interval time trial.

At a canal crossing was this interesting hut.

Area board.

Cycling ‘art’.

Cute home.

The canal we were still following. We would soon deviate as we were heading to Roubaix and the canal to Tournai.

Little statue.

Big statue. The light was all wrong here, but sillouette works.

More canal.

Finally into Roubaix. A busy town where we headed to the famous velodrome, the finishing site for the Paris Roubaix famous cycle race.

Like the Tour of Flanders, a monument one day race featuring gruelling cobbles. Roubaix is regarded as the toughest, with sharp cobbles and climbs.

Dutch and Belgium riders have dominated in recent times. Mathieu van der Poel has won three and this year, Wout van Aert.

We headed to the velodrome, to do a lap. However, turned out the velodrome was hosting a huge soccer carnival and there was not going to be any cycling there today.

Outside the entry gates a huge cobble.

Peaking over the fence from the dyke you can just see the track.

A bit disappointed, but what will be, will be.

Nice park in Roubaix.

The ride from Roubaix to Lille was predominantly on a paved cycle path, running adjacent to the main arterial road.

The two cities are joined, one larger urban area.

The path is intersected by red lights every few hundred metres for about 8 km. I reckon we got every red light.

It took quite a time to do the distance but finally we were in centre Lille.

Photos riding through.

Pleased to find our unit, then the day got hard.

We had been given a series of seemingly easy instructions to follow.

First, press the code to open the front door to the apartment building. Easy.

At the next door, press another code that would go through to the owner, who would open the door remotely.

Did it, but no answer. Tried a few more times, no answer.

We rang him. He said, try again. We did, but we’d now tried so many times it locked us out. He said we needed to wait a while.

Can’t you come down and just let us in? No..he was in southern France.

Waiting, waiting, waiting….try again. Boom, I am in.

Go to the second floor in the lift. I cannot make it work.

I find the fire escape stairwell. Grope around for lights, go up two floors.

Pitch black, grope for more lights, find unit 16.

Next clue, at floor level is a key box. Here I am on my knees, trying to open the key safe. Boom, I have a key.

I open the unit, dump the gear I carried up.

I need to find the garage key, near the spices. I failed.

So I head back to Tony, lock the door but cannot get the key out!

Down the stairs, groping for lights, jamming the coded remote access door open with our luggage, opening the exterior door and jamming it with luggage, and Tony heads up to retrieve the key and search for the garage key.

He succeeded. All up it took 50 minutes to get us sorted.

Lots of colourful language used.

We went to a convenience store and grabbed supplies to cook a simple dinner of omelette and salad.

This unit has a washing machine, so we put a load through.

Tomorrow we do a day ride featuring an interesting family legacy.

94 km today. 2,196 in total.

We are back in France, having crossed the border not far before Roubaix.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 5: Metz to Trier

On May 20, 2026May 20, 2026 By Sharron YaxleyIn EuropeLeave a comment

We were first to breakfast at 6.30 am. We certainly left well fed, and started riding by 7.40 am.

We covered 116 km today, and a three country day. A spattering of rain forecast but nothing too ominous.

The first part was following the river through a variety of land uses including heavy industry. Hard to avoid industry and today there was a variety.

These 3d cutouts warning people to slow down were very cleverly done. The detail and depth was incredible.

Here are a few industrial examples. Here we have a canal barge docked, and we think it is coal being removed.

A nuclear power plant pumping steam out.

An area of another WWII battle.

The scenery started to improve as the day went on and we closed in on the Luxembourg and German border.

Luxembourg arrived without any fanfare. We were unaware we’d crossed the border until we arrived at Schengen, Luxembourg.

Schengen is where the agreement, of the same name was signed in 1985. The agreement abolished internal European border controls.

The agreement was signed on a boat in the river at the point if the three country borders.

There is a museum there now, plus all the Schengen flags riverside. People were having photos taken next to their country flag.

We crossed the river, into Germany, to grab lunch supplies at a supermarket. Our favourite, a fresh long roll with banana in it. The German rolls were a bit different and the ones bought had salt and pepper garnish…not that I realised that when selecting.

We followed the cycle path on the German side, giving us lovely views across to Luxembourg. All their houses are very schmick and smart.

On both sides of the river, there are numerous vineyards.

An EU sign near a bridge crossing back over to Luxembourg.

We were really enjoying the riding and views.

Happiness is the name of this industrial barge, seems more like a ‘demon’ or ‘Atilla’.

Closing in on Trier.

We arrive, shortly before check in at the Holiday Inn.

A bit of a problem with the Egyptian male on reception who had no smile or friendly greeting.

He then insisted we have two rooms booked, despite only one showing on my Hotel.com app.

To say I was unhappy was an understatement. I was forced to pay an additional 99 euro ($161 aud).

The guy was misogynistic in his comments and was derogatory presuming based on my age and female we must also have a car and ebike as I could not ride that far.

Wtf!

Then he says ‘ you are getting agitated’. You think?

Not a person with any diplomacy or front desk skills.

Anyhow I paid the additional amount, and will take it up when we get home and boy are we going to raid breakfast in the morning!

After enjoying an extra long hot shower, we walked into the older part of town.

Trier was founded by the Romans in the late 1st century AD. As such, it is considered to be Germany’s oldest city.

The Porta Nigra was built 170 AD by the Romans. The darker colour is due to pollution mainly from car fumes. Cars are now barred from driving through the gate.

The Haupt Markt area is very nice, with lovely Middle Age buildings, somewhat spoiled with modern signage.

Trier cathedral is the oldest in Germany. The central nave is built from Roman brick in the 4th century.

When we entered the organ was being played. Twice in a row now as we’ve entered. The organ is very high up, and I presume the organist was ‘up there somewhere’ as I could not find the player!

Few other photos. We also wandered around the cloisters outside.

We had a really nice meal at a Japanese/Vietnamese restaurant. Best meal in nights!

A lot of km today. We have now ridden 485 km in our first five days.

We have five nights in Germany, in this section of trip.

Tony is excited as the supermarkets have a wonderful range of Harbro sweets he carries for fuel and Ritter peppermint chocolate for 99c ( about $1.60).

That’s it, I need some shut eye.

Thanks for reading 😊🚴❣️

Day 4: Toul to Metz

On May 19, 2026 By Sharron YaxleyIn EuropeLeave a comment

We wandered down to a boulangerie at 6.30 am to grab some breakfast provisions. The streets were quiet, with an occasional pedestrian passing by, baguettes in hand.

We were on the road by about 8.15 am. It was a cool 6 C, and rain threatened.

We left via the same gate we’d entered the previous day.

Within 10 km it was raining. We had pre planned and had our rain over boots on already, so just threw our raincoats on to keep our torso warm and dry.

Today we passed by, and through, numerous villages.

Nice chateau in Villey Saint Etienne, through the misty rain.

Villages overlooking the Moselle River.

Liverdun is an interesting village we skirt around.

We rode through an area with numerous private fishing lakes.

I’ve expanded our ride map to show how numerous they are around the river and canal.

Signage indicated these were former gravel quarries that have been rehabilitated into nature areas.

How successful they have been in transforming the area.

More locks along the canal.

Pont-a-Mousson, a now strong steel town, site of savage fighting during WWII.

Back through forests adjacent to canal and river. I was fascinated by this very pale coloured snail. It was huge, maybe 3-4 times the size of the snails I ‘deal with’ in my garden.

Along the rivers edge we came across an interesting war memorial, dedicated to US troops.

The Battle of Dornot-Corny took place over 60 hours, leaving 945 Americans dead. It is also referred to as Omaha Beach Lorraine.

There are a series of information panels with photos and testimonies from survivors.

The surrounding waterways have numerous private fishing shacks, ranging from super basic, to more ‘solid’ structures.

We passed by a tall post showing various flood levels over the years, I cannot see any of these surviving a big flood.

An old Roman aquaduct constructed in the 2nd century. When completed it was 22 km in length, including significant underground sections. Those Romans were clever!

Nearly there, Metz is ahead.

Metz is a Gallo-Roman city, sitting at the confluence of the Moselle and the Seille Rivers. Twenty bridges criss cross the rivers and canals.

We find our hotel easily enough. Then came the hardest challenge of the day. Following obscure French instructions to locate the hotel underground car park some 300 m away.

We can navigate Europe without too many issues, but find a French car park was challenging!

We knew, or rather thought, we were close.

Fortunately a couple approached us and asked if we were looking for the car park. They had seen us checking in as they left to find the car park.

He told us he’d been wandering around for 10 min confused, then bingo!

We were less than 50 metres away. Our bikes are secured in a locked room within the locked underground car park.

No crook will find this carpark!

After showering and laundering, we spent several hours wandering around what we found to be an impressive town.

Lots of waterways, canals, bridges, classic apartments and buildings.

Then our first glimpse of the undoubted highlight of Metz.

Getting closer. To photograph the cathedral whole is likely to be difficult or impossible. It is seriously huge.

Saint Etienne Cathedral is the third tallest in France, after Beauvais and Amiens.

There has been a church on this site since soon after AD. The current church was built in the 13th and 14th centuries.

I have visited a lot of churches on our cycle tours and this is right up there with the very best. I was gobbled smacked by the extraordinary height of the ceiling vaulting.

The nave is 41.41 metres in height and the tour de la mutte (bell tower) is 90 metres in height.

Stained glass is the most in the world at 6500 square metres including modern updates by the contemporary Marc Chagall.

As a bonus, when we entered, one of the two magnificent organs was being played. Seemed like a rehearsal. The sound was incredible.

I kept staring up at the ceiling and going wow. I looked at the stain glass still going wow.

A side chapel, one of many, all featuring magnificent lead light.

No explanation as to why the dragon is in the church. If in Wales I’d get it….

You can just see the man playing the organ.

I reluctantly left. There was more to see plus we needed to buy a new charging plug, as we’d been having some issues with our current one.

We headed off to the famous French department store Galeries Lafayette and for an arm and a leg, acquired our goods.

We found an early dinner. It was very ordinary and decided our frozen lasagna was better last night.

The icecream at another stop did not disappoint though!

I wanted to see this building. It is used on many promotions for Metz.

Temple Neuf is a Protestant church, built in 1901-1904 by Glod (when I first read that I thought I read God…and had a laugh).

Temple Neuf, we enter the purple gates to wander around the church

Walking back to our hotel the Cathedral dominates. Being further away we get more into the photo.

Still there, with lovely homes along the river.

Part of an ancient baths from about the 15th century.

Slightly further down, another section.

A fascinating day today. 84 km ridden and we really enjoyed the variety of sights.

Tomorrow we leave France and follow the river on the German side, with Luxembourg on our left hand side.

Thanks for following us. We appreciate it 😊❣️🚴

Day 3: Epinal to Toul

On May 18, 2026 By Sharron YaxleyIn Europe6 Comments

Leaving Epinal it was straight onto the cycle path we were to follow for the day.

People were out walking their dogs. We’ve noted that cleaning up after your dog not a ‘thing’ here, so lots of dog poop everywhere.

Nice statue in the park.

The path followed the Moselle canal. The river was always in sight too, shallow and not yet navigable.

The path was mainly sealed but sections of compact gravel.

The canal crosses the river in places through elevated canal structures and bridges.

These fascinate me and also reminded us of our trip to Wales, staying with Alan and Sue who took us to the Llangollen canal and bridge.

These are not as elaborate but the concept is the same.

The view from the canal bridge overlooking the Moselle river.

Further on, we passed our first canal boat the “peace vegan” from Basel.

We watched it pass into this lock, with the lock waters raising, opening the gate, boat enters.

We saw a few other canal boats, and many locks today.

Riding the cycle path bypasses most towns and villages. At road crossings there are often signs indicating nearby villages.

We detoured to a small village mid morning, grabbing a hot drink (it was only 6C), and something nice to eat.

Whilst I ordered Tony took this photo.

He also took this. There was a boutcherie open, with these rotisserie chickens cooking outside. The smell was super enticing.

How we thought about these chickens later in the day, when everything in Toul was closed.

There are some lovely aquatic parks, with lakes formed from the Moselle.

Fishing is super popular. Lots of serious fisherman set ups along this section.

Typical pathway and vegetation today.

Crossing a road, signage for an upcoming cycle event.

We stopped for a stretch here. Pathway at the rear, and a boutcherie vending machine. Behind the doors are lots of protein options you can purchase.

Arriving in Toul early, we cleaned our bikes with this view of a pretty fountain and gardens in the roundabout.

We did contact the Air BnB owner to see if it was possible to arrive a bit earlier. They agreed to one hour early, so we waited then rode only about 600m.

We are in a nice unit. The owners are currently working in Saudia Arabia.

This unit has a washing machine, with a strange rotating drum that you seem to need to lock. We could not figure it out so hand washed.

Heading out to explore, it was discovered Tony’s phone battery very low, so only a few photos as the local Cathedral. Another seriously old church.

The Cathedrale St-Etienne began in the 13th century, taking over 300 years to build. It suffered damage during World War II.

This section is beautiful. To either side, the vaulting is not in good repair, and there is netting everywhere to catch falling parts.

I’ve borrowed this local tourism photo.

Toul is an octagonal fortress city, encircled by the Moselle and the Canal de la Marne.

You do not get a sense of this riding in. You can see the church we just visited. Our overnight stay is quite close by.

The citadel was built in the early 18th century, from which the ring of defensive waterways and the octagonal city ramparts remain.

Dinner provided difficulties. Nothing was open. Supermarkets and restaurants all closed, being Sunday. We’ve experienced this before but near the fountain photographed early, we found a small convenience store open and grabbed a frozen lasagne to cook in our oven.

The days ride was flat, easy and very chillaxing. Just turn the feet over as overall we descended a few hundred metres.

Still we covered 92 km.

Tomorrow we head to Metz, a much larger city, inching our way closer to the German and Luxembourg borders.

Thanks for reading and joining us vicariously. We do appreciate it. ❣️😊🚴

yakkablog

Tag: France

Day 37: Vœgtlinshoffen to Stein

Day 36: Vosges villages and vineyards

Day 35: Plainfaing to Vœgtlinshoffen

Day 34: Mittersheim to Plainfaing

Day 33: Saarlouis to Mittersheim

Day 26: Lille to Mons

Day 24: Ghent to Lille

Day 5: Metz to Trier

Day 4: Toul to Metz

Day 3: Epinal to Toul

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