Day 4: Bornholm Island

The sun was shining! Whoot woo.

It was only 8 degrees Celsius, but at least the sun was out and we could see blue sky.

We did debate clothing – bare legs, covered legs? I chose to wear my long legged bibs, Tony wore leg warmers. We both donned multiple upper layers, and had other clothes with us to add or reduce layering.

Heading off up the dirt bike path we headed to Bornholm’s most famous sight, Osterlars Kirke.

We were too early to enter so decided to pop back at the end of our days ride.

A few photos of the exterior and watching the people tending the cemetery. Another exquisitely maintained cemetery. There is pride in their work.

Today there were a lot of churches. For an island of 37,000 people, there are many.

This is Østermarie kirke, circa 1891.

Windmills also featured today. This is Kuremollen and dates from 1861. It remained in service until 1960. Visitors can tour during summer.

We rode around the edge of Svaneke, a village we had ridden through yesterday. Climbing out of town we encountered some lovely horses and barn.

Two lovely vistas looking back to the coast.

Hallebrondshoj is a sorte muld, constructed in the Neolithic era, some 5,500 years ago, as a burial site.

Ibs kirke dates from the 12th century.

The route today was a mix of cycle paths, road, dirt trails. This section was lovely as it protected us from the very strong winds we were experiencing.

Looking towards Snogebaek and Dueodde, where we had ridden yesterday.

The next three churches….

Bodils kirke built around 1200
Vestermarie kirke circa 1885 after the former church was demolished. Why are there doors up on the top level of the tower?
Ny kirke, built in the 12th century and considered the youngest of Bornholms four round churches.

Cykelvej signs are what we have used extensively on the island. There are over 230 km of marked cycle paths. Very impressive and one of the factors that attracted our visit.

This sign was embellished, the first one we had seen like this. We turned left to head to Ro, and this section was great following what seemed to be an old rail line.

Gudhjem is the prettiest village on the island in our opinion. We descended steeply with many tourists walking slowly up the hill. I did think that will be an interesting climb out for us.

Gudhjem was established as a fishing village with smoked herring a product sent to Copenhagen.

There are an assortment of restaurants and gift shops and yes, we spied the gelato shop, as had many of the tourists. We are not great with queues and did not want the old leg muscles cooling down before climbing back out of the village.

A few photos of the village.

The chimneys are used for smoking herring

Looking at our Hammerhead (bike computer) map we spied a possible alternative climb out of town. It was heaps better as there were no tourists wandering around.

Sharron climbing up and out of the village

To finish off our ride we headed to the supermarket in Osterlars to source dinner and then back home via Osterlars kirke.

30 kronor got me in. The church was built around 1150 and is the oldest round church on the island.

Men and women used to have separate entrance’s but today all use the front door!

The external walls are an incredible two metres thick.

The beautiful frescoes were created in the first half of the 12th century. Not all church attendees understood written and spoken Latin so the images told the biblical stories of the priest. In latter years these frescoes were covered with whitewash and rediscovered in 1889, restored in 1960.

These steps were super steep, narrow, highly polished and slippery. I was wearing my cycling shoes, so an added challenge.

Climbing the stairs there are two step off points. At the top level you can see the foundations for the cone top, an incredible meccano like slithers of timber.

Lovely views out.

There is Tony waving as he minds the bikes.

This runic stone was previously used as a casing stone in the belfry. The inscription dates to 1025-1075.

88 km completed today and over 600 metres climbing. A very pleasant day riding despite some of the headwind challenges. We both enjoyed today.

Tomorrow morning we have one more ride left here, and that is to head back to Ronne to connect with our ferry to Germany.

Todays route.

Thanks for reading this blog, and look out for our continuing Viking odyssey adventures.

😊❣️🚴💪

2 thoughts on “Day 4: Bornholm Island

  1. Alison Fairley's avatar Alison Fairley

    This looked a very lovely day. That last church of 1150, had some incredible structure/architecture and you were brave to tackle those steps in cleated shoes lol. Given the number of churches the island has leads one to wonder if many, many years ago, there were far more residents. Or, was it an island for Pilgrimage? Beautiful villages and surroundings.

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