Day 13: Winsum to Ameland Island

Another beautiful day. The young girl from the bakery below made her way up the steep external stairs with two trays of our breakfast, freshly baked.

I complimented her on getting up with no spillages as they are quite steep!

Our room was in the area behind the upper signage. Wonderful room with the right hand side roof having multiple windows with automatic blinds.

They also make and sell the granola we ate. Tony gets two eggs as I don’t enjoy egg. Never have since I was a little kid forced to eat it. I have since learned to eat scrambled eggs and omelettes.

Looking across from the bakery, a nice local house and greenery.

Today was a special day. We were joined by our Zwift friend Jeroen. He has zwifted for 9 years, me 10, so have ridden together virtually often over the years. More so pre heart surgery as I used to participate in faster events.

Jeroen has ridden for two hours to get to us, taking a day off work where he works with a leading Dutch tomato producer, in charge of 150 workers, and some high tech equipment.

The thing that always impressed me about Jeroen was the way he talks about his wife and children, with such respect, love and reverence.

We start off along nice bushy paths as he head to the very north of the Netherlands.

This is in someone’s front yard. There must be a story behind it.

The neighbours too have an interesting art installation, seemingly more peaceful.

As we hit the far north, the waterways increase. The north is home to a huge range of bird and aquatic wildlife, including migratory birds.

In addition, there are huge flocks of wild horses and cows! These are treasured and valued, restricted in some ways by the various dykes and canals.

We stop at an observatory. A man is setting up with a long lense camera and binoculars.

A younger lad has set up fishing.

You can see some wild horses here.

This area is in the Lauwersmeer National Park, part of the Dutch Wadden Sea conservation area and a UNESCO World Heritage region.

The zeearend, a sea eagle, is regarded as a precious local bird with a huge wing span of up,to 2.5 m.

My arm span falls short somewhat.

Back on the path and we traverse the north coast and note this fishing net art installation aside the marina.

Morning tea included apple tart.

Jeroen
Tony

We follow the foreshore along the top of a dyke. Hard to tell from this photo but there is quite the slope here. Note that the tide is out.

Way, way, way out. It is incredible how far out the tide is. In fact we have trouble working out just where it is!

When big northerly storms hit, water comes well up the dyke, but the huge dyke protects the super flat, low lands behind it.

An old sea mine bomb.

A cute farm vista across the wheat fields.

Nice art installation. I think this one was called Fisherwoman, referring the husband being at sea fishing, with the wife at home caring for the family.

Village church.

Another art installation.

Hard to see in this photo, but interesting swan detail on the roof. I gather it has a historic perspective. The thatch is very thick and even when you see the edges. Quite the skill.

We rode along many km of path like this, with sheep grazing on the dyke banks, canal to the left.

This section fairly clean, but lots of sheep poo on most. The sheep are often on the path, laying along the edges. You need to be careful that they don’t suddenly move and you take each other out.

Fluffy white sheep with a funny face on the one looking at us. Likely she said similar about us too 😝
Beautifully green pastures that the farmers agist on.

Lots of gates and cattle grids to keep the sheep contained, bounded by the dyke and canals.

A distant village view across more wheat fields.

Famous sculptures looking towards the sea, waiting for the water. Naked and pregnant lady with an emasculated, very skinny male.

Me discussing with Jeroen in the background the paternity of the unborn child as I figure the supposed guy is not the father. He just could not be. Apparently there was controversy as to whether he should have been given a penis! They chose no penis.
Back on view. In wild weather, the waters do travel across the green fields you see, again the dyke providing protection.

The ferry port just 2 km away. We headed there to secure our tickets for the latter ferry. About 45 euro return for 2 adults, 2 bikes. The crossing takes about 45 minutes, yet the distance (direct) is only 3km but the boat needs to weave around the channel.

A ferry out in the channel now, guided by the coloured buoys, most of what you see is boggy sand.

We then ride back out and along the coastline, where there is am area of outstanding natural values. Low land, green, protected zones for the wild horses and bird life.

Generally only accessible by walking or riding, although the occasional car breeches to drive along.

It was super peaceful along here, and we enjoyed a tail wind.

The wild horses are living life.

They look fit, strong and healthy.

Just like these two. Jeroen heads off on his new Specialized gravel bike to do a series of epic gravel climbs in France and Italy in a few months. Hard trails like Alpe d’huez gravel version.

He’s fit and fast and with good weather, will nail it. Training for mountains are difficult in the Netherlands.

The name of the route we had been on. Worth checking out if in the area.

This is an architects installation along the top of the dyke. It is a popular place for wedding photos.

Looking behind the dyke. There is a pathway ocean side, road internal side.

The three bikes lined up.

It was a headwind for the 13 km back to the ferry. Jeroen took the lead and covered us back into the strong headwinds.

We had one final chat and afternoon tea at the ferry cafe and it was farewell, or Ooroo as I say.

I always get said saying bye to wonderful people that we gel with. Jeroen made me laugh, putting it into perspective.

He said, well we don’t live in the same house, so it has to be goodbye.

True. A friendship and day we will treasure.

Thankyou ❣️😊🚴

So with that, it was onto the ferry and across to Ameland, where we scooted off to our home above the house, just 2 km away.

We fell asleep on the couch early and tomorrow brings new adventures.

Thanks for reading ❤️

For more detail this map can be found on my Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

Day 12: Giethoorn to Winsum

A super quiet night on our little island and we woke to another marvellous looking day, with higher temps forecast as Europe and UK are experiencing heatwave conditions. Summer still days away.

A later breakfast today at 8.30 am delivered to us by our host.

Getting out of Giethoorn was far easier than our arrival, and we should have entered this way given our host is close to the ‘far end’.

It was 24C already and we appreciated the shade from many forests we rode through today.

We ride through very quiet areas today including the Drents Friese Wold National Park. Amazing to have these wonderful trails making the parks so accessible to many.

Drenthe is a Dutch province. It has one of the lowest populations, but during the Bronze Age, the most populated.

Today there are major tracts of agriculture and national parks.

This map shows the cycle paths through the province. Fiets is the Dutch word for bikes.

Quiet villages. The heat was over bearing without the shade of trees.

Another stinking hot passage through open fields but the flowers are out, and pretty.

We did about 5 km through this open section of fields.

Stopping in the town of Norg we made our way to the supermarket. Tony’s request included a refrigerated can of something fizzy.

Found a can of cola, not his usual brand, plus our usual sparkling water, and a Gatorade style drink. Also grabbed tubes of quark (higher protein dairy product) and bananas.

We found some shade under a tree, just as a group of school children approached. We checked with the teacher, all ok to sit there.

We consumed our food, well most of it.

Tony told me his cola tasted a bit ‘funny’. He’d drunk half of it, and we looked at the can more closely. I had inadvertently bought one with 7% alcohol in it 🙈. That does not happen at home at the supermarket!

Right near the checkout too, where we’d have confectionary.

Anyhow we laughed, poured it out.

Chilling with the kids practise in full swing behind us. They could sing better than me too!

Rob is the school teacher of this class of curious kids. They were practising for a music event.

One young lad was super keen to let us know his dad owned the bike shop in town, which we did note as we departed town. The pride in his voice ❣️

There was another young girl who peeped my curiosity. She stood by closely, very observant but shyer. Looks like a wonderful young person and you gave to have confidence in the future with such kids.

Rob was super friendly, and a fellow cyclist. He had recently been cycling in the Ardennes (an area we touch on our return via Belgium, Luxembourg, France). He had the farmers arms to prove it too.

This interaction was a highlight of the day. Meeting locals, by chance, finding common ground.

As Rob pointed out, Tasmania is named after a Dutch man too!

Rob and Sharron

We needed to move on, with about 38 km remaining.

I felt as dry as this!

I liked this little building adjacent to a small canal, deep in the forest.

More forest. The shade was valuable. Many paths today were paved with narrow pavers in herringbone pattern. It is rough as in your bum and not as smooth as cement or tar. This section was smooth though.

Tulips. There were big irrigators out and I hoped we’d get wet. No such luck.

We had a larger town to get through.

Groningen is regarded as the capital of the north, and we are in far north Netherlands. A city of around 250,000, and larger metro of 500,000 it was quite busy.

On the outskirts are canals with modern homes.

In the centre we rode through Stadspark, a substantial tract of forests, lakes, fountains and people.

Then there was this wonderful family. Dad at the front honking, not impressed with any other users. Looking super proud.

Nice canal areas.

Another park.

The last 11 km was very open, no shade. There is a dedicated path to Winsum. It was quite busy with bikes ploughing up and down.

Our overnight is in a loft above a bakery. It is a wonderful conversion. The air conditioner was on and the room cool.

A lovely rear deck that dried our washing in no time.

We wandered into the village centre, all of about 30 metres away to find food,

We had an amazingly nice dinner, sitting outside watching the cyclists everywhere. Kids dinking their friends, people heading home from work, others with groceries.

The main canal.

Nice windmill with the Dutch flag colours.

We then found a supermarket and another canal.

Here I am now, sitting on the back deck at 9 pm. Cool.

Tomorrow the temperatures drop. Will be nice but not as hot thankfully.

We head to the very north tomorrow, then around the coast,with a special guest.

93 km today, 1170 km total.

Thanks for reading ❣️😊🚴

Day 11: Dieren to Giethoorn

Waking up near the quiet forest we packed and readied ourselves for breakfast. A more basic breakfast but sufficient.

Carved animal by the front door bid us tot ziens (bye).

A beautiful day awaited, hot forecast, but a pleasant 19C when we headed off. We would follow canals today and see lakes.

We came all the way to the Netherlands to see a wallaby! There were five I spotted, including three white ones.

We crossed over by this ‘thing’. Make of it what you will.

Nice part of the canal in a small village.

Pretty and peaceful.

We stopped to ‘talk to’ these miniature ponies. Very cute, but that hair!

That’s better, I rearranged what was very coarse hair around the blonde one’s ears. We had a good giggle. One good flick of the head and the mane will be restored. At least she could see now!

A floating duck….

Pretty chateau.

Statue in the park at Heerde where we found a supermarket to replenish our cold liquids and some nourishment.

Heerde was setting up for the finish of a cycle event. Me at the finish line.

Then another Aussie. This was on the Sunweb bus. Michael Matthews is an Australian cyclist, having won stages at the Giro, Vuelta and Tour de France.

He is not with this team now so their bus needs updating but nice to see. He rides with the Australian Jayco team, and recovering from a crash breaking both wrists.

I do have a Michael Matthews story. On Zwift years ago I used to lead an event called Crikey Down Under. We would ride as a group then at a certain point, the fastest riders would form a group called the Galahs and try to lap my group, the Wombats.

The route was around London and about 5.5 km laps, so the galahs had to work hard.

Michael Matthews joined one time and ‘asked me’ if he could participate. I was honoured he joined…no asking needed. The other Aussies in the event were also excited.

You might think he’d be a Galah, but he went as a Sag rider, picking up riders dropped off to bring them back.

Humble for a man known as Bling. Always had a soft spot for him since.

Super nice to see an Aussie on the side of a bus so far from home.

I laughed at the cow on the right who was scratching its head on the other cows bum, need to be careful with those horns!

One might think we are in the Netherlands.

A fortification in a village. Note the long wall.

Lovely river, with the horses enjoying the coolness of the water.

A pretty house boat. This looks a permanent fixture.

We even saw dinosaurs.

Zwolle is a very happening city with vibe. I did wonder about our partial glimpse of this structure over the waterway. The building with a growth.

It is the museum. This photo is from their website. A mix of architectural styles.

Zwolle, castle just appearing in the background through the fountain, people enjoying the water riding through the fountain sprays.

The castle we could see through the water spray is this, actually a city gate.

Sassenport was built in 1409, and listed as one of the top 100 Dutch heritage sites.

We crossed another bridge and stopped to watch the water activities. Predominantly young people in the boats, with some families. They were all having a ball.

This bridge reminds me of one of the tools in my Swiss Army knife present recently received from Ben.

All kinds of users on the paths.

We followed this canal up towards our overnight destination. It was super warm cycling now pushing towards 30C.

A little farmhouse had a sign out saying ijsje…we’ve learned that word quickly, it’s ice ream. We got two icy Calypos and two cold cans of saucy (water).

The view from the cafe canalside.

A family pulled in with mum and kids hopping off to grab refreshments.

We thought we were minutes away from our overnight stay in Giethoorn. We passed by a sign that said car parks were all full. I wondered about that.

We passed by some emus in a yard…another Aussie connection.

We only had a few turns to arrive, then pandemonium on a bike.

Every man, woman and child that was not in a boat was here, Taking up all available footpath space.

Today was a public holiday hence all the people.

We literally walked the last few km, save a few times we could scooter the bike.

Giethoorn has 2600 residents, with homes along 90km of canal network. It is known as the Dutch Venice.

The village is located in the heart of De Wieden, one of the largest nature reserves in the Netherlands. Together with De Weerribben it forms the largest peat bog in North Western Europe.

Centuries ago, peat cutting and floods created the lakes and the canals.

Most of the homes are thatched farmhouses, accessed by wooden bridges.

The bridges are super steep when pushing a bike with gear. I reckon we crossed a good dozen getting to our place.

Some of the local homes.

Found our place eventually. Crossed the bridge and onto our own island. You can tell where we are staying by the clothes that are drying.

We went searching for food, the crowds had started to thin. We knew many food establishments were open having passed by on our 2 km push a bike trip in.

We did enjoy a lovely meal, by the canal. From our table we watched this Great Dane. He was on the other side of the canal, on his owners island, watching each boat pass by.

Every now and then he singled one out and bark at them. Lots. We laughed as it reminded us of our Khaleesi. Some people can go by our place without her reacting, others she lets rip.

We wandered out to the large lake that our island backs onto.

It is huge and super popular even at 6 pm.

Walking back to our unit we smiled.

Our bridge. It is steeper than it looks, with timber trim on either side for foot grips. It was not easy getting our loaded bikes up, through the gate, down.

We sat on our deck enjoying the cooler air. We are amazed at the number of hire boats ploughing up and down the canal. Some of the drivers are terrible, bit like some of the cyclists we’ve seen. No sense of steering straight hitting the side of the canal, crashing into other boats.

I filmed these lads enjoying themselves.

Inching our way to Northern Netherlands, this is today’s route.

Today was a fantastic day on the bike. Bit too hot, but that aside, just brilliant. The scenery, the cycling infrastructure made it a very enjoyable touring day.

94 km today, 1077 km total.

🚴❣️😊

More route detail available on our Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)