Day 29: Teuven to Sankt Vith

Ever heard the story about the meteorologists who got the forecast wrong? Nah, never happened has it 😝🤣

Today it rained and rained and rained. Not 30% chance of 0.25 mm this hour, or that.

It rained.

We sat eating our breakfast at our wonderful overnight in Teuven, by the window. Maybe in the next 30 minutes or so it works stop.

Keep eating Sharron.

Joao our host is a super interesting guy with a history that is from Portugal, Mozambique, Malawi and Belgium.

He cooked two extra bread rolls for us for our lunch and have us a bag. So very kind.

Cyclists, this is a great stopover point. The Kings Head Inn, Teuven.

We left, it was raining.

The first part of our ride headed south easterly, then north easterly, despite our ultimate destination being South.

This route to Aachen was lovely, despite the weather.

Much of it followed an old rail line.

Lots to do and see
More great signage

Dreilander, this is the official border of three countries. Belgium, Netherlands and Germany.

We rode on and up as our climbing started. This part is on the road.

This was not. It was a messy section.

We were in Germany, for two reasons.

Firstly I had hoped to see Aachen Cathedral, built around 800 AD by Charlemagne. It has an amazing octagonal dome, structural wonderpiece with extraordinary history.

Charlemagne’s throne where Holy Emperors were crowned, his burial site plus Barbarossa’s chandelier from the 12th century.

Even without the current weather and route, you need a good many hours, and that we did not have.

We need to come back to Aachen.

Some of the sites we did see.

Not the cathedral
Nor this, although impressive

The cathedral is huge, and hard to photograph.

Part of it

My lower body outside the cathedral. No one would let me in.

Mr right knee around my scar is bruising and a cut from my fall. Plus dirt.

We liked Aachen. It flowed well, no crazy car traffic. Plenty of wet cobbles slowing us.

It actually stopped raining for about the 20 or so minutes we were in Aachen, one of only a few rain breaks for the day.

Curious statues and advertising.

Cyclists red carpet.

We were heading to the Vennbahn, a Belgian initiative. One of Europes longest rail trail cycle paths, 125 km in length. It veres into Germany and ends in Luxembourg.

We were doing 92 km of it today, ending in St Vith (on top of the 24 km already ridden, making today 116 km).

As a rail trail it inclines at around 2%

That climbing starts at 24 km, and did not stop until just past 60 km.

2% is easy. But 38 km in the rain and wind, with the loaded bike, does add up. It was slow going today. Slow and steady.

Lots of rail curios.

Plenty of signage.

Places to stop.

Signage of what else is around.

Other entertainment

Bridges you go under.

Bridges you cross. This was about our second rain break and I harboured hopes it might be lifting. I was wrong, but this was a super pretty area looking down over.

The path ahead.

There were a few of these, all closed.

This is like a weather vane. Spins around, makes a noise.

Someone bored with a welder.

Getting closer.

The arch walls of this bridge are used for rock climbing.

We made it to Sankt Vith. A town that was annihilated by Allied bombing Christmas Day 1944, killing over 120 residents remaining and 1,000 troops (presume German).

It’s a modern town now. We needed to clean our bikes, ourselves, our luggage and a well located fountain by our accommodation aided.

It has water shoots last night. Must turn it off overnight.

It was a very long and slow day. Our butts had had enough.

I have a cadence sensor on my bike. It calculates how many pedal revolutions I make per minute. I did the numbers, and I did 30,080 pedal revolutions!

That’s a lot!!

We had a great meal at an English named restaurant, with the menu in French, drinks menu in German. It cost more than our accommodation but it was nice and just what we needed.

In nice weather, this would be a fantastic route. It was a great route in wet weather, but even better in sunny. We could see beauty across the fields and valleys, but the rain made photographing it limiting.

I think it rained about 100 out of 116 km today. The temperature was between 10-12c. With wet legs, and wind you’d think they’d get cold. As long as you keep your upper body warm and dry, then those those 30,080 revolutions keep the leg muscles warm.

I had multi layers on. Core body shirt, jersey, gilet, jacket then rain jacket. Rain cap under my helmet to reduce drops.

My glasses fogged up with rain and body heat. Leave on, leave off…helps protect your eyes from objects flying through the air, bugs, stuff flicked up by cars or other cyclists though.

Enough nutrition for energy still not right. Need to keep at it.

Thanks for reading.

Day 28: Namur to Teuven

A new day.

Down to breakfast at 7 am, the place was deserted. Most food was out, but just no one to be sighted. I called out ‘Bonjour’ lots and in the end, we just started eating.

About 15 minutes later the wine supervisor from the previous evening arrived and all he said was ‘coffee’?

That was his only communication with us. No offer of omelette or pancakes (per the info on our table), no students, no one.

It was weird and for 25 euro each, could have expected more.

We decided to take four slices of their nice whole grain bread, add the Liege white honey and make sandwiches for our day.

Mr wine man would not know as he had his back to us.

Later in the day retelling the story to our next host, he said, “ah, the Wallonia French, some we call French Loonies. They think they are better than us.”

It was a cold start at about 9C and we rolled down the wet roads into the city. It had rained overnight but the day looked fairly clear for us.

A few photos of Namur as we crossed the river Meuse.

The citadel
Looking back to the bridge was had just crossed, more of the fortifications.

The first section following the river was lovely. The Meuse is a major European river, starting in France and ultimately flowing into the North Sea, via the Rhine.

Nice riverside homes
Cliffs
More cliffs, the railway runs along the base
Interesting chateau high on the hill
More of the chateau

Fairly typical pathway today. It did vary, and we also weaved through a few villages and towns and the big city of Liege.

There were barriers, mud, climbs up and over bridges, but overall a pretty good path.

We weaved around a lot as the river weaves, so sometimes we had tail winds, other head or cross, but wind was not an issue today.

It was cool though and we added more clothes as required.

This was interesting. The path took us into the town of Huy, with a citadel sitting high above the river.

We decided to deviate to a cycle cafe, maybe 50 metres off route that we noted on our bike computer. We were 40 km in, and would seek a warm drink.

A few photos as we rode into town.

I ordered two hot chocolates, no cream (slag). This is what we got.

Sitting at the cafe, looking up at the Fort behind the church.

The current fort was built in the 1800’s, but there has been one there since the 9th century.

The German’s housed prisoners there during WW2 before transporting to concentration camps.😓

There is a cable car option for getting to the Fort.

The path eventually ended up back along the river. It became heavily industrialised for a significant portion.

There was a massive nuclear power plant we went around, with the most incredible security. The various levels of fencing deterrents, signage every 25 m or so advising no photographs, the cameras just everywhere.

There were interesting villages and cliffs in parts.

Our constant companions.

A mixture of both.

Liege was to be our largest city of the day. I knew nothing much about out the city except for the famous one day monument bike race, Liege-Bastogne-Liege.

What I know now, is not a lot more, but on the outskirts it has a heavily ethnic community. I went into a small shop to buy a bottle of drink and felt I’d walked into the wrong store. Five men sat around the small fridge and I felt quite intimidated and walked out.

We rode on and found a Lidl supermarket. I was the odd person out in a long queue, but had found drinks and some food items.

The trams run along this side of town which was super quiet. Eerily so. Grass grows between the tram tracks, and they mow it.

In the city, traffic was gridlocked. Just no one moved, backed up for long distances. We were not deviating to head to the more historic parts.

Photos as we made our way through.

Safely out of town, we noted this old Fort Navagne sign. The site of an old citadel.

Green grass fields now.

The latter part of the ride we crossed back into The Netherlands.We did 19 more Dutch km, and two registered climbs.

I was flagging energy wise by now, still not having my nutritional intake where it should be. I can still only eat smaller amounts without feeling nauseous. It’s improved heaps, but not enough for today’s 108 km energy requirements.

Me on one of the climbs.

Note the road markings. There are three lanes. One for cars, two for walkers/cyclists. The Dutch do it well.

Bit further one, the lanes are different colours. How do cars cope? They are patient and wait to cross and move on.

We pass through a few small Dutch villages.

Such a pretty area.

A Dutch flag flying high above a tall, spindly tree.

With 2 km remaining, we cross back into Belgium. One more small climb and we are in a small village, Teuven.

It has a decent sized church, a few cafes, pubs and our hotel.

The owner was outside doing some paving, and ushered us into the garage, where there were already guests bikes.

Apparently I booked the spa package? So we had the use of the spa room, so I did enjoy a nice spa, after a lovely meal next door.

Another 108 km done, 2500 km in total.

A confidence booster after the last few days. I just need to nail the food better.

We have a big few days coming up. Weather forecasts are somewhat contradictory but, what will be, will be.

Our route map, overall a NE trajectory but it’s going south quickly, as we enter the last 9 days and have to end up back in Switzerland, not even showing on this multi country map yet.

More route details on Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

Day 21: Middelburg to Bruges

Today we left the Netherlands after nearly 1,000 km ridden in this wonderful country.

The weather, still trying to not let us go, headwinds and likely rain.

Tempting to stay!

Nevertheless we had our breakfast, put on our wet weather booties (go over our cycling shoes to keep our feet dryer and warmer).

Middelburg was a busy place today, after being quiet as a mouse last night. Soon we were following the canal to Vlissingen.

It was maybe 7 km or so and we were at the ferry terminal. It was about a 45 minute wait and we were on the ferry for about 20 minutes.

The bikes are well looked after. The bikes are tied to the rails.

The ferry is a catamaran and crossed the slightly rougher waters in the wind fairly smoothly.

We chatted with a group of Dutch friends, some living in Geneva. They had hired e-bikes to look around Breskens.

Soon we were on the road again, passing through villages including Groede.

We deviated around Sluis, riding along the old rampants, on a gravel path. It had been raining and I wondered what as going through Tony’s head. Gravel, rain, bikes = messier bikes. 😳😝

Soon we were back in town. Sluis was largely destroyed by Allied bombs near the end of WWII. The city ramparts, belfry and windmill make the town seem historic though.

Close to the North Sea coast, just a few km to the south is Belgium.

The skies opened again in the centre and we went into a small restaurant with covered outdoor seating close to our bikes.

We ordered a fruit smoothie and a ham and cheese pancake. It was huge!

We chillaxed here for a while, as today was short, relative to our usual days.

Sluis sights.

On the outskirts of town we headed out following the canal, there are a series of old fortifications. I walked through them. You need to use your imagination as to how they would have looked in their day.

Look, the sun has started to shine! Still a headwind but, the sun is shining and it’s not raining.

We ride across that bridge.

Within a short distance we are in Belgium. No signs and we are not certain exactly when we crossed, but the residents cars along the canal all have a B instead of NL.

So no teary farewells.

This was interesting. It is a little punt you can operate to cross the river. If it was not so windy with rain forecast, we’d have given it a go.

Scarecrows.

It started raining heavily as we approached Damme, a former major European port. Must have been a lot of land reclaimed since.

We take shelter and keep moving when the rain eases.

Some sites around the town. Lots of cobbles here. Not my favourite surface particularly when they are wet.

The bat cave.

We cut our ride short today by 10 km heading to our hotel on the outskirts of Bruge. I had routed 10 km wandering around the city.

Dark clouds were threatening and it was going to rain again. The wind had dried us quickly and we were keener to arrive dry. we took shelter under a building foyer as another downpour bucketed down.

Then the sun come out and we moved on.

We are at a bike hotel tonight. We were able to check in 90 minutes early too.

Wonderful bike storage and everything is themed bikes.

Near the lift
Adjacent to our loo! Freddie watching over us.

After an hour or so, the forecast showed no further rain.

We walked nearly 7 km into the centre and back.

Bruges is one of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe. It was declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 2000.

Of course, everyone knows that Matilda of Flanders was born here. Who? The wife of William the Conqueror (King William I).

Ezelpoort one of the many remaining city gates
Lovely architecture
Interesting and ornate churches
Pretty canals

The famous belfry.

Churches

The belfry of Bruges is from the 13th century. It houses a carillon of 47 bells.

Need to travel a long way to get Aussie ice cream
Quaint
Chocolate shops galore
The Provinciaal Hof
Belfry
Markt
Seriously old buildings
Nice statues

We will likely come back into Bruges on Saturday on our way to Ghent.

Today was a short 51 km, but after yesterday’s headwinds, a reprieve of sorts.

It was a SW headwind again today but only into the lower 30’s kmh, and without the exposure of the bridges and causeways.

Tomorrow we have a longer day ride planned, can be tweaked if weather dictates.

We enjoyed a lovely dinner in the restaurant here. It’s nice to get a lift and find dinner vs going on the prowl, when I sing one of Willow’s songs ‘ we’re going on a bear hunt’ changing it to ‘food hunt’.

Today’s route. Thanks for reading ❣️🚴😁

,

Day 20: Delft to Middelburg

Today was to be our last full day riding in The Netherlands. We have loved it. What would today bring?

Firstly, another amazing breakfast. Looking out the backyard. Serene. Flower hot houses to the upper right. The geese and their small growing broods over the canal.

Darker skies but it’s not raining, tick.

The forecast includes strong SW. Our direction today? SW.

The winds were blowing. Ominous start as we had 106 km to ride today, heading towards the coast and across the southern islands of Zeeland.

Back through Delft and Schipluiden, we headed to the ferry at Maassluis, to cross the Scheur River.

Waiting for the ferry. It costs 3 euro for the two bikes.

Looks like Tassie paste on that bag?

The ferry heading to us.

Me sheltering from the winds on the ferry.

My hammerhead computer says we are off route!

The ferry twists and turns in the short distance, plus needed to give way to three larger vessels.

Today we are riding through South Holland, across many islands.

Only one ferry, the rest is a mixture of bridges and causeways.

Great places to be in 35-40 kmh headwinds as they are usually more exposed 😳🤣

The wind turbines are in their element. Always delightful riding along and seeing they are receiving the same wind direction. The wind turbines here are much larger than those I’ve seen in Tasmania. These are seriously huge.

Finally a small forest section, where we enjoy a reprieve from the wind. It didn’t last long. We took a break at a table here.

Up to the coast. Blowing like blazes there.

Tony looks, and he climbs up the observation tower.

What Tony saw.

At ground level, plenty of bike signage. A strand is beach. Along this section, there are about 9 access points. Like Poland along their Baltic coast, numbered and designated points.

Tempting to turn and head back to Rotterdam. We’d have a tail wind.

A lighthouse at the southern end of the North Zealand island, Schouwen Duiveland.

If you look at this map of Zealand, you can see the narrow slivers of land we cross.

From South Holland the bridge and causeway across. Then another two around the Deltapark.

There are some wonderful beaches at one end. Today paradise for the kite surfers.

On the other side, no sand, calmer and the windsurfers are enjoying it.

The pathway across one causeway. It looks calm but you can’t photograph wind. It’s blowing a gale with gusts over 60 kmh.

The path is built on the dyke. In places, my legs were being sandblasted.

The best I could manage was 12-13 kmh along this beautiful straight and flat section. Cyclists coming the other way were flying.

There is a tourist train! Does it take bikes???

More beach, kite surfer. This area would be brilliant in a nice summers day. Oh yes, it is summer now 🤣🤣🤣

I look for seals. I see none.

Riding into as much wind as we did today is physically and mentally hard. To help counteract the mental I count things. How many wind turbines? I got up to 39 with one view from left to right.

52.2 kmh wind gust on Tony’s bike computer. We also looked at the wind apps and no good news there, still 32-38 kmh SW for the area.

I’m still smiling….or is it gritted teeth? Rain jackets on as it started spitting.

We stopped to put our rain booties on with 20 km remaining. No more photos.

So then we had driving headwind plus rain.

We arrive in Middelburg and have a self check in. Good bike storage as they also do local bike tours.

Our room has a wall heater, plus we put a portable fan on a bedside table, in front of hanging space, to dry our clothing.

The smell of drying cycle shoes is a less pleasant sensation.

We head out hunting food. It is a quiet night here in Middelburg, the capital of Zealand.

The closest restaurant says no. The next restaurant says no….feeling despondent the Spar supermarket looks like the best bet. Then we spot signage to another. She said yes!!!

Third time lucky, I could have kissed her.

We left with a full tummy and had a wander.

Love the umbrellas. This is where we ate.
I was not going to sit next to her. Puddles!

Just under 1,900 km ridden now. Today was one of our tougher days courtesy of the strong headwinds.

It was tough and you just have to mentally break it down into bite size chunks. We ate all our snacks today speaking of biting chunks. We did stock up at that Spar on our walk home.

Tomorrow the forecast is similar, but we are not riding as far. Shorter day as we head to Bruges in Belgium.

I think the Netherlands does not want us to leave. It’s saying, turnaround, head north and we will give you tail winds.

Tempting, but our journey does need to take us in another direction. Surely the headwinds will give up eventually?

Let’s see what tomorrow brings 😳🙏🙏🙏

Thanks for reading 😁🚴❣️

Day 19: Cruising with Theo

An amazing breakfast, delivered to our table and more than we needed given we thought we were not riding.

Beautiful food, and I gazed out across the canal watching the geese with their young ones. The Dutch geese are plentiful, and many with young families currently.

We thought we were meeting Theo at 10am. He rocked up at the said time, on his bike.

So we quickly changed whilst Theo enjoyed a coffee here in the breakfast room.

We jumped on our bikes and headed off, armed with rain jackets.

The forecast was for about 8mm of rain today, with a moderate thunderstorm warning.

The neighbours have this carving. The bear looks sad.

So where did we go? We followed Theo! We had no idea and just watched our route grow on our bike computers.

The green dot was our start and finish point. 51 km was ridden in and around Delft and The Hague.

It had been raining and the paths were wet. In places, there were some quite big puddles.

Without our rear luggage on, water flicks up from the rear wheel onto our bums.

We passed many hot houses today. Theo tells us that many have been closed, or moved on, to provide for new housing.

The hot houses are mainly flowers but we pass one that grew capsicums too.

We ride through a large park, Landgoed Ockenburgh. The park is part of a country estate villa built in 1630 in The Hague.

A large lake, sun starting to shine.

We stop at a quaint cafe not far from the coast. It is frequented by Theo and welcomes cyclists, having a bar that you can hang your bike on (we prefer those to the racks you jam your wheels into).

There are a few other, seeming regulars, in attendance. One man sits on a pokie like machine inside, a few others enjoying a beer.

Theo orders coffee for each of us and asks if she has apple pie. This is the same as Jeroen in the north. I’ve deduced apple pie is a ‘thing’ here in the Netherlands for cyclists.

Cream is known as ‘slag’ here….far different meaning to home.

Theo is a friend from Zwift. We connected when he was recovering from open heart surgery, a few months after mine.

He has more recently had spinal surgery and has bolts and screws added to his collection. He rides well.

Zwift was a wonderful rehabilitation tool for both of us, and obviously with strong social connections as we have been fortunate to meet many zwifters on our trips now.

We sit for maybe 90 minutes at the cafe chatting away.

The skies start to darken and boom, down it came. 10 mm fell in The Hague yesterday and I would hazard a guess that much of that was just after 1 pm.

The cafe lady had a mop with a large head on it, pushing up the canopy over her entrance. Incredible volumes of water were caught weighing it down.

Maybe 20 minutes later, it eased up and off we went.

At the town of Schipluiden we said our farewells. Theo would head south to Vlaardingen, and us to the north east to Delft.

Theo’s jacket has lots of mud and very wet.

Thanks Theo for being part of our journey and trip memories. ❣️

Riding back towards Delft, further rain threatens.

We skirted around Delft, as Hoeve Buyten Hout is closer to the village of Delfgauw.

Delft
Delft

For dinner we walked about 500 metres to a delightful French cafe restaurant.

A lovely setting, we sit indoors as it rains on and off. We ordered a main course each and had eyes on the dessert menu, but neither had room!

We have so enjoyed our time in The Netherlands. Tomorrow is our last full day riding here and we will make the most of it.

We head south tomorrow to Middelburg, on the southern Dutch islands before Belgium.

Thanks for reading ❣️🚴😁

Day 18: Voldendam to Delft

A nice breakfast, chats with some of the other guests, asking us about our trip. Going to breakfast in cycling gear tends to do that.

We rolled out quietly, crossing the cobbled pavement, heading towards Edam and Purmerend, then onto Zaandijk.

Lots of canals, nice homes and farms.

An older junkier boat, but I’m sure lots of stories to tell
Crossing over a bridge, looking down at the bike paths and signage. We rolled down and headed under the bridge.
Wide canals or maybe rivers . Hard to know without looking at maps

This stretch of road was beautiful. The houses all had such features with flowers. Clogs, scarecrows and stuffed jeans.

An old packing crate, clogs and geraniums
I thought these were really well done.
Every yard had a scarecrow

A dairy area too.

Lots of tourists were walking around Zaandijk.

Not sure what this is, but interesting structure.

We saw the kiosk and stopped for drinks. Buitenhuizen has a ferry to transport over the North Sea canal.

It’s free, and constantly going back and forwards. We just missed the first one, so enjoys our drinks and chatting with this super fit 70 year old Dutch rider.

He rides 800 km per week, on the road. His wife is still working four days a week, so says he rides all day, up to 150 km.

We stand just under the descending flight to Schipol (Amsterdam airport). A constant lineup.

We cross to the other side. We laughed as the three motor bikes are revving their motors.

An interesting point is that small motored bikes below certain cc are allowed on bike paths. We have been passed by hundreds mostly respectfully, but some at quite the speed.

An interesting church.

Our route goes through the side of Haarlem towards Leiden, following a path that cuts through villages and flower farms.

Many tulip fields that would have been glorious a few months ago.

Rain was forecast but it did not happen

A heavily picked over peonie field.

Not sure what’s growing here. Look like carrots but likely a flower.

Hand painted tulip bulbs.

Churches in each village.

Always canals and boats.

Old gateways into towns. This one is at Leiden. An interesting looking town, birthplace of Rembrandt.

Roundabout of the day.

Excellent pathway.

Heavily flowering peonies. There was a farm shop open at this one where you could buy produce.

Very modern homes back onto this canal, with internal spots for the boats.

The men were busy fishing here. We’ve not yet seen anyone catch a fish! Many of the men have quite elaborate set ups.

A lovely windmill renovation in progress.

We are riding towards Delft, riding through parts of The Hague. Many beautiful homes back onto the canal.

We don’t deviate as today, at 107 km to ride and it has been increasingly challenging with the unabated head winds growing stronger.

Around Delft there are roadworks in progress and we need to re route. Annoying as we are keen to get there, but easy for us to figure out with our bike computers.

We are staying in as all boutique style accommodation alongside a small canal. It has won many awards including a Netherlands National BnB award. It is likely the nicest overnight (well two in this case) we have stayed in on any of our trips.

The bikes are well secured with their loan e-bikes.

We pass by the rabbits, ducks and chooks.

We have our own enclosed yard, where the sun shone brightly, and enough breeze to catch the drying clothing.

The backyard extends down to a canal, a hot house with vegetables growing. There are also beehives.

The room is beautifully appointed, with a handwritten card and gift of local tea.

A little car we saw as we walked to the village. These are compact and have seen one on a bike path! There is a sign on the back indicating it has a limit of 40 kmh.

So here we are now in South Holland province.

Tomorrow is a rest day off the bike. after 1720 km in 18 days, good for our body.

I do have a route mapped, but there are thunderstorms brewing with warnings, and we have plans to catch up with a friend instead. Who wants a wet bum if you have options.

Thanks for reading.

More details available Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

Day 17: Amsterdam

We’ve now eaten seven breakfasts in the Netherlands.

At the first there were chocolate sprinkles on offer. We smiled. At home, kids might have them on ice cream.

Then they appeared day 2, then 3….and so on.

Today they came in fancy little boxes, and three varieties. Dark, milk or multi pastel colours.

By chance, ha ha as if Facebook has not been listening, this article appeared.

This is just the first part of the article, but we now realise this is a Dutch thing.

I watched a woman at breakfast today really have a good think as to which ones to select. She took about four.

I guess hagelslag will keep appearing, particularly as it lifts the national mood.

We headed off today a bit later to ride into Amsterdam, or A,dam as appear on many signs. By road the signs said about 10 km, but we were taking a longer coastal route of about 25 km.

Statues are everywhere in the Netherlands and we saw many today.

Our first one was close to our hotel in Voldendam.

Onto lovely quiet bike paths and roads that followed long dykes that were being upgraded.

Many of the small canals and ponds had what year they were built. This lake was 1910 I think. Some of the canals were from the late 1600’s.

A village, a statue.

Open paddocks with occasional villages.

The weather was a pleasant 18C. Here is a fisherman set up for the day.

Getting closer, large tourist canal boats become frequent.

Once we were in Amsterdam there were many, with buses galore bringing passengers back from wherever, others heading out to wherever.

The city. We had been warned by multiple people of the dangers of cycling in Amsterdam. We survived, thankfully it was a Sunday. I do not think it was any worse than Copenhagen.

Certainly we were on alert watching, eyes everywhere.

Stopping for a drink was challenging as the cafes don’t want your bikes near them, but stored with hundreds of others elsewhere. We don’t do that.

Then we found a small cafe next to Bagelboy, an incredibly busy and popular shop.

There are our bikes, just behind us, chained to the pole. I take my front pannier bag with me, as it contains money and passports.

Over the road, another statue.

These look nice, stoopwaffels?

I agree with this. My library room was part of an extension we undertook in 2019 and my favourite room. I love my books.

I had routed us around a few canals and three main parks, Amstelpark, Vondelpark and Amsterdamse Bos.

We follow the Amstel river.

We wind our way around the city to capture a glimpse and feel of the vibe.

If I was walking, I think I would use the hop on, hop off bus and take a canal cruise.

On bikes, we can cover a lot of ground, and the highlight for both of us was Amsterdamse Bos.

It was clean, large, spacious with a feeling of freedom, unlike the densely packed, rubbish ridden canal area. Rubbish was everywhere, cigarette butts littering the streetscape.

However, there were many nice vistas and interesting buildings too.

Note the cyclist with huge headphones on. Not a fan as ears are important riding in cities.
There was some police security in this area
An old car on top of a canal boat.
Amstal River
Well known local from yesteryear

Amsterdamse Bos is around 1,000 hectares adjacent to the central city and Schiphol (Amsterdam airport).

It is three times the size of New York’s Central Park.

It has a world class rowing centre, that hosts World championships, and multiple other sporting facilities.

We thought it was great and could likely spend a day here just exploring the various paths.

We found an area that had a small children’s pool. A small kiosk sold cold drinks and fruity icy poles. We just sat back on the grass and chilled.

Walking the dog
Another windmill
Beautiful pathways
Peaceful lakes

Leaving one park we headed to Vondelpark.

Interesting statue with one enlarged breast.
Nice fountain, very green

Then it was back to crazy land, and an anti war protest we needed to give way and wait to have pass.

We headed back to the main North Sea canal as we needed to cross over by ferry.

More interesting buildings and structures.

Think this is an art museum
Nemo science museum

At the ferry crossing I’m trying to figure out how to pay to cross. I ask one lady and she said she did not know. I then asked a guy with a cargo bike, kids on board and he told me it’s free!!!

The ferry is packed full and only takes a few minutes.

Now on the other side, North Amsterdam
Lots waiting to cross. Note the tall building and see the next photo.
Swinging away.

We then had about 20 km to cycle ‘home’ as we took a different route.

This was a pretty area with many waterfront homes.

And….a windmill. This one was working and it was interesting to hear the flapping sound of the fabric on the blades.

Today’s route, 94 km in total. We did this a few years ago riding into London from Hampton Court.that was a similar length ride.

You can’t ‘see’ Amsterdam in a day. But you can gain an understanding of its vibe and sites.

Lots of museums and art galleries for those on foot if that interests you.

We are back in the relative quiet of Voldendam. We went back to the same Italian restaurant, sat at the same table, served by the same waiter, ordering the same as the previous night.

Tomorrow we ride the outskirts of Amsterdam heading to Delft.

We have three more nights in the Netherlands. Loved it.

The weather this week is looking possibly sketchy, but we will take it a day at a time.

Our total km for the trip is 1,613.

More detail on route available on Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

A few last photos as we closed the curtains.

I laughed, directly below us
Nice evening light
Good night

Day 16: Nagele to Voldendam

Nagele is a quiet little modern village and we left after our breakfast, heading to the fields towards Lelystad.

The air was a nice 16C, little wind.

As we made it across to the great inland lake of Ijsselmeer , once opened to the ocean, but closed with land reclaim and the construction of dykes.

It is hugely popular for boating.

As we approached the lake, many wind turbines were evident.

Crossing a bridge, even transmission lines are on large water based pylons.

We then rode along a path on the dyke. A clearer view of the water based wind turbines.

The marinas were well stocked.

Heading towards that tall control tower that is actually a series of antennas. The tower for the canals is to the right.

We skirt around Lelystad stopping for a drink beside the canal.

We may have had a stroopwafel too 😁

We watched a very large oil or gas barge enter the lock plus two yachts. We then realised we should get moving as the bridge would need to lift for the two yachts.

Tony had just passed the first of four gate barriers when the loud warning bells went off for the bridge lift. He still had three more barriers to pass, loud bells sounding. Pedal faster Tony!

I stopped before the first barrier and watched the section of bridge lift.

The first of the two yachts passing under.

This was a very interesting section of today’s ride. The causeway or dyke is the longest we have ever ridden.

I was thankful that the headwinds were minor, and relief from the increasing heat. Being out in this 26 km or so causeway in stormy weather would be awful.

A blown up route map showing the causeway.

The area is also a national park. Certainly lots of bird life out here.

Reserve for dumping bikes too.

For the most part, we could not see the cars. This is very early on where the land to the right still clear. Ultimately we are mid way along the dyke, with some slope up to the left, slope down to the right.

Geese and ducks dominate.

And these gnat like bugs seen mucking up this photo. We ate them, breathed then and later when we showered, they were all through the various layers of my clothing.

In my bra, under my jersey, under my gilet. Strange how they get in as the jersey was zipped up.

Surprisingly just over half way across was a jut of land to the right supporting this cafe. It would seem rude not to stop and have a drink.

We ordered an iced coffee. Not sure where the coffee was in the drink but it was enjoyable anyhow.

English signage in the middle of the Netherlands.

As we left, this truck had interesting signage about the environmental benefits of a large double deck truck. The panel in green also espouses its benefits.

The last section of the dyke we reached a high point and could see over the road lanes to ‘the other side’. Vegetation had changed and it was quite sandy and grassy.

There were beaches on our side with sand, and people who had ridden out to swim.

Nearly across now as the town of Enkhuizen comes into clear sight.

There is another canal as the causeway area joins the mainland. Here there is a canal boat crossing the road! You can see the top of the canal boat to the left of the cement section.

The road and bike path descends under the canal. Pretty cool engineering.

We now follow the coast down towards our destination of Voldendam.

Pretty houses, canals, coastal scenes abound. Another pleasant section to ride.

The day has heated up to be in the mid 20’s.

This was interesting. There were three of three gangs working this field picking I’m not sure what. They worked in this line, and the music was very loud.

On the path Tony managed to snap this coffin on wheels. We’ve seen a few this trip. They move fast.

We noted the very neat hedge.

You can always pick a village by an area with a church spire.

Little beach area.

Mini me working windmill.

Nearby the big me.

We deviated into Hoorn looking for a supermarket. The town was a bit crazy being lunchtime Saturday. We took a few photos and headed back to the dyke.

We took a few photos in the market square area.

A large shell statue on the outskirts.

Following the dyke, on the inner side, as there was no path waterside, we noted these umbrellas. We presumed that people had gone up there with them. Closer inspection revealed that there were multiple umbrellas for the sheep to seek shade.

The Dutch look after their sheep better than Australia.

We are in Zeevang, per the map.

View from the top of the dyke, looking northwards.

Thee I am waiting for Tony to get off the dyke.

Some interesting modern homes.

The sun was in a bad spot when we took this one, but the statue is called Venus. She wears gumboots.

We detoured through Edam. This is looking down the canal. We may ride through Edam again tomorrow.

Now we are in Voldendam staying in a waterfront hotel. The bikes are down in a hold with the alcohol, food stores, laundry and adjacent to their kitchen.

The view from our bedroom.

We have to be inventive today drying our washing.

We felt it wrong to hang too much out given the restaurant and bar below.

A 101 km today. Our total is over 1500 km now.

We had a lovely dinner at an Italian restaurant not too far away, being the first customer when it opened at 5 pm.

We then grabbed some gelato from the supermarket to finish. $1.99 for a tub versus over $2 a scoop at a shop.

Not sure why the eggs are coloured.

Some nice views out our window.

We are here for two nights. We are only 10 km north of Amsterdam. We will do a day trip there tomorrow.

Our route today.

Thanks for reading 🚴❣️😊

More detailed route available Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

Day 15: Ameland Island to Nagele

Another yummy breakfast made by our host Anneke. I love these cute mugs.

One thing about cycle touring, you don’t buy souvenirs, as you have to carry them.

Down to the ferry terminal, the temperature was cool and it was windy. Rain was forecast today.

The bikes are first onto the ferry, last off on the other side. They are simply leaned against the side which works fine as the water is flat.

Ominous skies.

Then just like that, the skies improve.

There is just one drive on deck for cars and trucks. We are amazed at how many big trucks were on both trips. Many walk on passengers too.

We head out of Holwerd and of course, a windmill.

Cruising along and we needed to stop here for five minutes or so whilst this very large herd of cows crossed the farm to the green paddocks ‘on the other side’.

An unusual letterbox?

Many beautiful villages today with gorgeous canals and waterside homes. All looks very peaceful.

Where there are canals there are bridges. These ones I do not like. They are steep. I push my bike up and with a degree of trepidation roll down the other side.

A super cute, young foal.

The biggest junk heap we’ve seen on the trip so far. Two boats that seem to collect …junk! But they are proud Dutch.

Villages and more canals.

Roundabout of the day

This is coming into Leeuwarden the largest town we negotiated today.

A population of around 130,000 and continuously inhabited since the 10th century they, it was also a former royal residence.

These seven metre high white sculpture are called Love. The mist is meant to be around two metres in height, but I think the very strong wind played havoc today.The artist is Spanish, by the name Plensa.

We had been subjected to strong headwinds (a southerly today, and of course, our direction), since the start today. The temperature was in the high 20’s.

We stopped a few times to grab cold drinks.

Some shade was always welcomed.

We saw a few of these towers today, with bells.

A cat statue in a small roundabout. Tony thinks we should have one in Possum for Puddles ( RIP 2013) who was a local ‘identity’ or dog hazard as she launched out at dogs.

More churches. They all have clocks and this looks the right time.

We needed more water and stopped at this farm. Many farms here operate cafes.

A large working farm that has icecream. Very nice too, plus we topped our water bottles up in the bathroom.

Many canals have lift bridges. The first one we’ve needed to wait for.

This yacht sailed through, tacking multiple times to get the line right.

More pretty canals.

Nice water front cafe

Time has moved on. 2.30 pm and another church.

This espalier is impressive.

I took this photo on my iPad. Whilst doing so, an elderly Dutch man approached me, chatting away. We had quite the conversation with neither having a clue what the other was saying. Smiling crosses barriers though.

Another bell tower.

With 34 km to go we stopped for more liquid at a supermarket. We sat outside drinking it and heard thunder. Yet the sky was blue.

Within 5 minutes it was raining and we had our jackets on. The wind was fearsome. I do hate riding when I hear thunder.

Then just like that, it stopped.

We motored on for about 5 km and had a tailwind.

Emmeloord looks like a nice town, but the thunder started again, and the winds got super wild and we were not stopping for photos.

The skies darkened and it was quite dark riding but I did not take my shaded protective glasses off as I needed to protect my eyes.

The last 9 km was unpleasant. We just rode and watched the lightning, counting to the thunder. Around 20 seconds so still a bit away.

The wind was coming from the side now. Gusts of 67 kmh per our data. We watched one lady on her ebike blow right off the path.

I was thankful that we were on a path and not the road where we had more space to control the inevitable sideway push. The trees were dropping twigs and small branches.

I kept counting. The time between the lightning and thunder, plus how many km remained. I was just hoping we could get there in time.

Dirt was being blown from dry paddocks.

In between thunder claps we did stop for one moment to take these two photos.

To the right, where the storm was blowing us from
To the left, a bit brighter.

We were so relieved to get to our overnight destination just as the skies opened and the storm was on us. Our host quickly opened his garage.

Riding you don’t get such alerts.

Hoping for better weather tomorrow, as we wind our way towards Amsterdam.

We are now in a converted bank, including the original safe. It’s been very well done and the owners are a lovely younger Dutch couple who moved here from Rotterdam. They live in the attached former managers home and did this conversion.

There is lots of orange here, walls and curios.

There is also a large bath, and I did enjoy soaking in it last night.

Today we rode 106 km, bringing our total now to 1,419 km.

Thanks for joining us ❣️😳🚴

Day 14: Ameland Island

I recall Frisian Islands reading Bernard Cornwall’s books about Uhtred, son of Uhtred….I am sure that there are references to seeking safe passage here. I must read the series again.

Then last year, as we started our journey home from Denmark, we flew from Copenhagen to London. It was a fine day and I had the window seat.

We flew over the Wadden Sea and from the air I saw the islands and next opportunity got my maps out and saw West Frisian Islands.

This then formed part of the motivation for this trip to visit one.

Ameland is the third major island with Terschelling to the west, Shiermonnikoog to the east. Easier to spell too!

The Wadden Islands form a barrier between the North Sea and Wadden Sea.

Total population is around 3,800, boasting four villages.

Today we covered most of the island. Including the four villages. Total km of 60.

Firstly we had a very nice breakfast delivered to our door by our hosts, up their incredibly steep, narrow stairs.

The strawberries were divine.

We headed down to the local information building to grab some cash from the atm. We needed 8 euro for the local tourist tax.

We then followed the dyke path to the north east, as far as you can ride.

Near Nes, the tide is high

There are some glorious beaches. There are oil platforms off shore.

The paths varied. This one is very interesting as it is all shells. Whole and crushed. Quite muddy, so thinking that it might be from dredging the channels. Either side of the path is sand.

This is as far we can ride to the island extreme in this direction. There are walking paths to either side.

A long walk to the beach.

Nature signs abound.

Looking back towards me, where we parked the bikes.

We then ride to the highest point on the island. 24 metres above sea level😁. We were 35metres below sea level earlier, hence the importance of the dykes.

Melbourne is listed, as the furtherest away point.

There are nice views across the island.

Part of one of the offshore platforms, looking across the sand dunes.

The pathway up to the highest point
Signage at the base of the path
More signage
More views

We then weaved our way up the other end, through each village and covering as much coast as possible.

Use of an old cargo bike. Very popular here and in Scandinavia to cart the kids in.

When does a horse become a zebra in disguise? The head cover also goes over its eyes, with the horse being able to see through the mesh.

A lake near Nes with a few twists, turns and bridges.

Oh, a windmill.

Then chaos hit. School children on bikes, everywhere. Peace and serenity gone as they squeal, shout, weave around on the paths.

Most of the teachers were pretty good, some more laissez faire.

We were coming in the opposite direction to this group, not much space for us.

This group were going in the same direction. You either sit back at their 20 rpm cadence, or you pass them. We overtook this group of about 30 and they held their line pretty well.

More beach and sand dunes.

Look how far the tide is out here. You can see some people walking in the distance.

The famous lighthouse, popular for viewing sunsets. There are a group of school kids up there shouting and calling out to mates below.

Nice pathway beside the road, no school kids in sight.

This was interesting. I had not heard of the Atlantic Wall. There are 6,000 km of a long German defence line from Norway to Spain. Here is one of those bunkers.

The Germans occupied Ameland during WWII but were never attacked as the Allies left them alone, as not seen as strategic.

Signage
Bunker locations
Small museum
A bunker

Just a few hundred metres away, hundreds of gnomes.

Just one small section of gnome ville

This new house has a fine thatch roof.

The village of Hollum.

Local statue of a man known for his hat.

Hollum is the main village. Lots of nice eateries.

We purchased some supplies at the supermarket, found a sunny chair to sit in. Today the weather was cooler and now it was about 20C so happy sitting in the sun.

Old water pump

A local bike hire place had a huge number of bikes including these interesting creations.

Nice church. Many buildings have their year of construction on the exterior walls in wire. The earliest we saw was about 1688.

Back along the Wadden Sea dyke wall, lots of sheep grazing. This mum seems to have had triplets.

Really peaceful and serene.

Then we decided to stop and sit in the sun for a while, looking across the super low tide, towards the mainland Netherlands. There are a group of people out walking along the flats.

It was another bunch of school kids. The boys went through every soggy puddle coming back and had mud all over their legs and filthy shoes. The girls, much cleaner!

Heading back along the wall towards Nes.

We stopped by the local marine rescue. They have a channel dredged out to the main channel.

Nice art installations.

Cute village house.

Church and local chocolatier.

We opted for a simple dinner, grabbing supplies at the supermarket close to our unit.

One day has been enough on this island. In 60 km we covered a fair bit. Our host was shocked we’d ridden 60 km. We saw it as an active recovery day as we were sans our luggage.

I did this satellite image showing the channels

The island position relative to the mainland and other islands.

A fantastic chillaxed day of riding in a beautiful part of the world.

Tomorrow we are back on the ferry.

Thankyou for reading and joining us vicariously.

😁🚴❣️