Here we go again!

Nervous anticipation? Crap pillows? Hot room? Whatever the reason I slept very badly last night. I could not get comfortable and tossed and turned so I was relieved when daylight arrived and I could justify getting out of bed.

As is the case with most Bike Adventure trips we were first to breakfast. We knew that we would be stringing breakfast out as we would all depart together. Here we are, clean, eager and pristine!

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Left to right: Jamie, Barbara, Elizabeth, Gordon, Sharron, Martin, Lisette, Suni, Johnno, Tony and Mike

We all departed Bordeaux together, with Tony and I leading out due to the fact that we ‘knew’ the area and because we were familiar with the way around the roadworks that impeded the route instructions.

As you can see from the photo, we all have wet weather gear on. It was about 10 degrees Celsius, so quite fresh!

Mike has asked us to take our time today. In Europe check in to accomodation is quite late, and tonight’s was 4 pm. Today was a short ride of 74 km meaning we would take it really easy, and not push at all, otherwise we would be there late morning and make ourselves unpopular on day 1!

Reality is this will happen each day as the distances are shorter than previous trips such as London to Venice.

We pootled out the bike pathway passing Latresne and heading into La Sauve, up last the Abbey we had visited only a few days before. The rain was a steady drizzle.

The road undulated through vineyards and beech woods with a couple of short but steep little pinch of climbs.

Passing through the village of Capian at the 37 km point we continued with the theme of undulations and vineyards.  The following pictures are from near Cardan (41.8 km)

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We descended into Cadillac where we planned to have lunch. We found Andy in the Bike Adventures van and we entered the bastide village via one of its remaining ancient gates that had a marker showing flood heights from Garonne inundations.

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In the village centre we were fortunate enough to find a bloke selling hot chickens from his portable rotisserie. A bargain at five euro! Tony bought himself a half baguette for 47 cents!

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Sitting in the market square eating our five euro chicken

The village shops were quickly shutting down for the day ( being a Sunday) and we could only see one option for a coffee. 4.90 euro for one coffee! You can buy a chicken for that!

We then hopped on our bikes and cruised around checking out the village.

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This chateau seemed deserted and also has a interesting moat

After dragging our heels for as long as possible we were actually getting quite cold. Back onto the bikes and head towards our destination.

Just past Pujols-sur-Chiron we past this ruined chateau surrounded by a lovely, thriving vineyard.

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By the time we arrived in Budos we had warmed up, and no longer needed our rain jackets! Hooray!

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Rain jacket off in Budos

From here the road descended crossing a stream, continuing through a small hamlet and into some woods that continued for about 6 km.

Shortly before entering Villandraut we could not help but to notice this hotel promotion.

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Looking towards Villandraut from the gaudy statue

Fortunately we were able to check into our rooms a bit early. After storing our bikes, laundering our riding gear and showering we wandered through the village.

There is a very impressive chateau that was built in 1305 both as a residential palace and for defensive purposes on the orders of Pope Clement V, who had been born in the village.

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Impressive exterior

The chateau is undergoing archeological work as well as extensive restoration. It is free to visit. We did not take any photos of the interior. Whilst architecturally and historically impressive I was turned off by the plethora of modern, gaudy art that has been placed over the 13th century walls, detracting from their simple magnificence.

So day one done and dusted. We will meet for tea in just over an hour together.

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Today’s route 

Finally, some may think this is the appropriate place for me! Certainly a Frenchman was having a good old laugh at my expense. No matter what is happening in life, you can always find a smile!

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The day before…

The meteorologists got it right. We woke up to shite weather. Pouring with rain, black skies. It did not take long to decide to have a day off the bike.

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Besides we we needed to pack up and clean the apartment that had been our home for 6 nights.

We wandered off in the rain for coffee and then had an early lunch at Wok to Work, our third visit. They recognised us. I had been giving my name here as “mink” so that when our order was ready they would call out ” Mink” Mink”.

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Good tucker! Vegetables with prawns and beef.

I found a brilliant shop that sold the most wonderful quality chocolate moulds, at significantly cheaper prices than home.

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Check out the bicycle mould!

Then went for a wander up Cours Victor Hugo to the Porte de Bourgogne.

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Porte de Bourgogne
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Found a turtle to sit on, check out the photo bombers!! Ha ha!

We also managed to upset a French soldier who questioned Tony re his camera use. We decided maybe we would move on out of the square as we were being watched very closely!

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He does not look happy.

Back at the unit we received the call from Mike and Andy ( Bike Adventures) to let us know that they were on their way over to collect us and transfer us to our Bike Adventures accomodation.

Our bikes are now stored with the other riders bikes just off the restaurant.

A final wander of Bordeaux to check out a few other ancient monuments.

Check out the entertainment at the traffic lights. She was talented.  She then went from car to car seeking money.

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Juggling at the lights.

The first ancient abbey is the Eglise Saint Croix, constructed in the 11-12th centuries, attached to a Benadictine monastry from the 7th century!

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Next up was the Basilique St Michel, a newer church built between the 14th-16thncentury! So much history in one city makes you a little complacent. The pilgrims stop here on their long walk.

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Free to enter the church but fee paying and massive queue for the tower.

Checked out another confessional box. The seat was marginally better, just!

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Beautiful wood work though
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Looking like a naughty school girl here plotting her next misadventure

Heading back to the hotel we came across a children’s scooter race event. What really attracted our attention was the event mascot, a kangaroo!! An Australian animal for a French event.

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Kangaroo lost in France
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Another curio we passed

Finally we ended up in another supermarket. All week I have been trying to source shaved coconut for snacking on. Coconut seems to be a rare product in these parts and I left empty handed again.

One of the things that has surprised us in the supermarkets is the availability and pricing of a wide range of alcohol. Here is the red wine section, with many bottles for only 3-5 euro.

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A section of the red wines

We have now met all our fellow riders and we know three. In addition to Barbara and Jamie their friend Martin is also here, whom we know from last years London to Venice. They all live in London, with Barbara and Jamie formerly from Glasgow, Scotland.

We also have Jonno ( Cornwall, England), Suni and Lisette ( Durbin, South Africa) and Elizabeth and Gordon ( Ottawa, Canada, formerly also Glasgow).

So it is goodnight from Bordeaux. Tomorrow our adventure to Barcelona commences, and my fingers are crossed for improved weather.

Entre-deux-Mers

Same as yesterday…jumped out of bed at 7 am, ran to the balcony to check the weather ( before my coffee). Well I was a tad excited to be met by this!

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Sunshine!

The plan today was to check out some of the bastide towns. Between 1220 and 1370 the  counts of Toulouse and King Edward 1 of England ordered nearly 300 fortified towns ( bastides) be built in southwestern France. They were laid out to a highly rigid formula, established for military, political and economic reasons.

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Ready to walk out the door modelling all things Rapha.
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Then there are over 50 steps to carry the bike down! Coming up is worse!

So we undertook the getting out of Bordeaux crawl, crossing the Garonne. After about 5 km we located the bike track and headed out to Creon ( 25 km) , where we had visited a few days before. The plan was coffee and we found a lovely cafe in the town square.

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Whilst sitting there enjoying our coffee we notice a very lone figure in a window opposite us. Using the zoom on the camera this is what we found.

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The ghost of Creon

There is also a nice little church adjacent to the square.

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Next stop was the village of La Sauve-Majeure, which has a Benedictine Abbey founded in 1079, and now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The abbey is also located on the pilgrim route Santiago de Compostela. Predominantly ruins after a chequered life, the abbey remains majestic in both Romanesque and Gothic styling.

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The ruins. Surprisingly you can still climb the 157 stairs of the bell tower.
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One of 6 remaining ‘capitals’ located in the ruins

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The stairs up the bell tower
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Peaceful surrounds

I was quite blown away by the Abbey. There is a link to Eleanor of Aquitaine who was a generous donor of funds in the 1100’s towards the construction costs.

Back onto the bikes and off to the next planned stop, Sauveterre-de-Guyenne, founded in 1283 by Edward II of England. The village is sited in the heart of Entre-deux-Mers, the region between the rivers Dordogne and Garonne. Human settlement has been traced into pre history.

Sauveterre no longer has its ramparts which were destroyed in the early 19th century, but it does still have the 4 corner gates.

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One of the gates
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And another gate

We met three groups of cyclists here, including an older group from England, a couple from Australia and New Zealand and two younger guys who were making their baguettes up ready to eat.

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The guy on the left is from Ireland, the guy on the right London! I told them I would blog their photo! Hopefully they find it.

After lunch it was about 2.30 pm and the weather had started to close in, dark clouds threatening rain. We decided to beat a retreat back to Bordeaux, some 55 km away.

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116 km done and dusted today.

In the morning we transfer accomodation to Bike Adventures hotel about 1.5 km away. We are unsure if we will get a ride in or not for two reasons. Firstly, we need to see about the transfer of our gear and secondly the weather forecast is uber shite.

Thunderstorms are predicted and I can’t see the point of riding, as it is not a lot of fun! Anyway I am sure when the 7 am alarm goes off I will do my dash to the balcony to check!

Oh, one other thing! We have found out that we will know two of the riders on our ride to Barcelona. Barbara and Jamie from England are part of the group of 10. They were on our team last year from London to Venice.

That is what I love about touring with Bike Adventures, being able to renew acquaintances and share cycling adventures and stories!

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Yet another old church, this one being Sauveterre

You have got to be joking, right!?!

The alarm went off at 7 am. Jumped out of bed, made a coffee and looked out the window.

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Rain! That was not in the schedule! So hopped onto the Internet to check the meteorological radar.

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That is a big band of rain right across France and into Germany. Time to cool the heels for a few hours!

Eventually we got under way to head towards the Medoc, the area famous for producing some of the world’s finest wines.

By now we have realised that riding in Bordeaux itself is somewhat stressful. I have ridden from one end of London to the other ( and in peak hour). I have ridden from one end of Paris to the other (during a heavily congested Paris Marathon). I would prefer to ride in either of those cities than negotiate Bordeaux!

It is not so much the car drivers in Bordeaux ( where road rules are a suggestion only) but the cyclists! They are kamikaze crazy nutters who follow no rules weaving in and around, across, ignoring all and sundry. Throw in wet and slippery tram tracks for a bit of added excitement and you have an adrenaline charged ride. Well it is not even a ride as you are off your bike a fair bit!

Getting out of Bordeaux was about 18 km long today and our speed average was 16 kmh. Slow. The tram tracks were as slippery and dicey as nothing else, with my back end spinning out a few times.

We did eventually make our way onto a bike track around Blanquefort and followed that for a bit through heavily built up suburban and commercial areas.

Pre this trip I had spent hours looking at maps, researching villages and cycle reports to work out where to ride on the Bordeaux prologue days. I selected the option of using bike paths.

This is not what I had in mind.

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This was the best one. Only went for a km or so, solid base.
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This one started ok but got muddy and boggy.
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The start of the third one. This is ok here but ended up rough as guts, with water puddles consuming the entire track and sand drifts. These are the vineyard access roads.  

So after the 4th close encounter as we pulled onto the bitumen I realised something was wrong.

6D12E7A3-F8B7-42BF-9F8B-5658F756EE0DA flat tyre! Fortunately I had my team mechanic on hand to render timely assistance! Thankyou Tony.  It was not a straight forward tyre change as the sand had attached itself to so much and we needed to clean bits to ensure a smooth ‘ putting back together’. Then my rear derailleur would not work, but the team mechanic figured that out too. He may have cussed a little!

At the 40 km mark the scenery was really nice and we were riding ‘properly’ without all the stops and starts. The vineyards were plentiful. D2F7F6DD-A2DD-4123-B6A8-94FB4D40C26A4D9E05A5-4C79-4605-B02D-8F1EC9B64902

This was my favourite though.

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Pretty flash, and look at that pristine lawn! Perfect for an afternoon game of cricket!

We had decided we would break at Pauillac on the banks of the Garonne, the capital of the Medoc. There was a wide variety of restaurants open overlooking the very muddy river. The port is a popular stopping base for sailing boats to de-mast before taking the river to the Canal du Midi.

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The region seems keen on their BIG wine bottles. 

On the return trip the GPS tried to take us back through more vineyards but we decided if that transpired we would ignore it and wing it. Twice we got caught in tiny village back streets heading for another muddy vineyard. U turn and keep looking.

It was very windy during the ride too. We have had wind each day so far but today was by far the strongest at around 25-35 kmh.

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See how the flags are flying in the wind, at another winery chateau. 

At Blanquefort the traffic was getting seriously busy so we opted to find the bike path for safety reasons.

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Busy bike path along the Garonne near La Bourse, Bordeaux.

We have purchased some baby wipes and my Team Mechanic has given the bikes a nice clean!! We have promised our babies to take better care of them tomorrow!

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So we have ridden 110 km today! In three days we have now covered 330 km, which is decent! What will tomorrow bring? Rain is forecast but let’s hope the old weather man is wrong.

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The regions most famous produce

What not to do!

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A wet start

My body is out of whack! I awoke at 4 am again! I wandered out to the lounge room and looked out the windows to see what was happening in the streets. All quiet but I did see a bloke sleeping across the road outside the closed pub. Sad that he has nowhere to go.

Thankful that I did have a bed, I tried to sleep again and blow me down, it was 8.10 am before I knew it! We had wanted to be on the road by 8 am. Dang! So the first lesson is we are setting our alarm for 7 am tomorrow.

Walking out the front door on the ground floor I somehow managed to walk straight into a bollard, corking my thigh! I felt that all day with each push of my right leg. So the second lesson is, look out for bollards that came at you from nowhere!

The weather was rainy so we started off with rain jackets and headed slowly down Rue de Victor Hugo in slow traffic.

We needed to cross the Garonne on one of the bridges but wow they were busy so we walked our bikes around trying to figure out the best/safest plan of attack. It was hairy and slow going, needing to backtrack and walk our bikes over numerous roads before identifying the correct route

We were on the look out for the cycle track as we had planned to ride this particular path to Creon. Ah, the heavy machinery had dug it up and it was blocked by bollards! Note to self, be careful near bollards!

Finally we found this.

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Not a bad sign for the garage!
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Finally found what we were looking for.
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A section of the track
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An old railway station provided temporary relief from the rain.

Great cycle path on a disused railway line, with a number of intersecting roads but nowhere near as frequent as yesterday. Arrived in Creon to discover their market was in full swing.

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Sampled some very nice cheese at this stall.
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Took a raincheck on the prunes!
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But ate this! Yummy!

After Creon we continued on the bike track and entered an amazing rail tunnel. It was pitch black upon approach and you could not see ‘the light at the end of the tunnel!’ However upon entering the lights came on. The tunnel would be some 100 plus metres.36DBDE31-FB52-4EDC-883B-3597B15D694B07D3F5AE-3C81-4D78-A7A8-1AD78DADFA1C

We had decided to aim for coffee at Castillon-la-Bataille named after the decisive battle fought between the French and English in 1453. The French won marking the end of the Hundred Year’s War.

The town is also on the banks of the Dordogne, last visited when we rode from Calais to Carcassonne. That was a memorable day as we completed a TDF climb Puy Marie.

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La Dordogne looking towards the battle fields
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As you do!

Upon leaving the town, we entered a climb that has had TDF activity, judging from the names painted on road. The most frequent names were Bardet, Barguil and Roche. I saw one Froome! I am not normally fussed with Strava cups but was quite pleased to score one on this climb as I lifted my pace out of touring mode, motivated by the signs! I think from memory it was a 1.4 km km climb at a tad under 5%.

We weaved up and down and around a number of villages and vineyards of Saint-Emilion. A very scenic area.

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Pretty as a picture

A few km out from the town of Saint-Emilion a hirsute young fellow came flying past me on a really crappy looking bike! So I decided to get out of touring mode pace once more and have some fun trying to draft off him ( as we had been riding into headwinds for some distance now).

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I half expected him to utter that universally understood word telling to ‘go away’, but no! Look at my leg muscles! Getting stronger!! Ha ha

After a few km the hairy guy turned left and we needed to turn right. Within a km or so we came across a motor vehicle accident. This is the next lesson of how not to drive in France!

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Not sure how the driver managed that one!

As we entered Saint-Emilion it started to pour with rain. As we climbed up the road to the older village section the surface changed to cobblestones. Now I find them a bit tricky at the best of times, let alone climbing a steep, but short section wet and slippery packed with aimlessly wandering tourists. I felt like shouting ‘ move your arse!’ as I weaved around them still climbing.

In the 8th century a hermitage was set up by Emilion, a monk from Brittany on the northern slopes of the Dordogne Valley.  Fortifications began in the 12th century. Today the place is a tourist Mecca, with very interesting architectural heritage surrounded by a plethora of picturesque chateau’s and wineries.

Once at the top we rested at a bus stop waiting for the rain to ease. The following are views from the bus stop! 84177B7A-CD0A-4BD3-BE2A-4190571A6E659C37176E-D69C-4B4D-98E2-1259788D54B21BB88A1D-0F42-4576-A7B6-85E5C0533737CF7E4C39-94B2-40F5-9F4E-00D4AE70BBBB992B6FBE-06DF-428C-A452-52FDE482FA89

Heading out of Saint-Emilion we headed to Libourne, a very busy town with crazy traffic. We crossed Le Dordogne again.

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The French have lots of flowers on bridges. It continues to fascinate me as I appreciate the vivid colours.

To avoid the really heavy traffic we deviated 11 km back towards Creon to rejoin the bike track in safety.

We ended up back by the Garonne.

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Fishing huts on the Garonne

So before I finish up I need to come back to my title, what not to do. I have two more.

Crossing the Garonne I could hear screaming from water level. I jumped off my bike and was astounded with what I saw. Look carefully at the next photo and you will see that there is a steel cable to the left hand side of the small boat. It would appear the boat has been caught up in the very strong current and is effectively trapped by the cable and strong current pushing it into the same cable.  The cable is one of two securing the larger work platform.

The lady kept screaming ( thankfully also putting her life jacket on) as she watched various items of their belonging enter the river.

I qualified as a rinky dinky Aussie surf lifesaver a few years back and there was no way I would jump into that water with the torrid and swirling currents. They needed a tug boat and maybe a jet ski to rescue them!

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Note the cable that crosses the back left section.

As we left a car full of gendarmes arrived. Would have been interesting to watch but by  now we were both very hungry. So this is a lesson on where not to take your boat in Bordeaux!

So with only one km remaining after having ridden a total of 137 km, peak hour traffic, crazy French drivers and one crazy Tasmanian chick what could go wrong?

Well Tassie girl misjudged a car, left with an almost impossible riding gap of about 30 cm.  Not being Peter Sagan resulted in me choosing to ditch my body away from the car and onto a ledge… yes that same leg that was already caning, the one with my ‘bad knee’.

Ouch! But it could have been worse. My bike is fine and the nice young Frenchman stopped to ensure I was ok. E8E931B8-8EDA-4B93-BB57-CA6312EE299D

So what a day. 137 km done and dusted. Frustratingly slow in the cities, but ever so pleasant in the country.

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Today’s route
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Love this bike! 

 

Life is like a box of chocolates …

…. you ever know what you are going to get. Yes, today was one of those kind of days. Frustrating and challenging but there were some great rays of sunshine!

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Managing to enjoy the sunshine today!

Today required great risk, riding through Bordeaux weaving in and out of cars, cyclists who weave around all over the place, wet tram tracks and that was just to ride the few km to the railway station.

After eventually extracting train tickets out of the French language only vending machine and missing our first train, we hung around for a little too long.

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This is my ” I am waiting ever so patiently NOT face”

 

Finally by 1030 we ended up in Arcachon, where the intent was to circumnavigate the Basin, catching a ferry back across the bay.

I had mapped out the route and uploaded to a Garmin GPS file, however it was having a hissy fit and kept trying to recalculate the route. So to save the Garmin from being thrown a great distance by Tony we decided to wing it. Yes in a foreign country at that.

Realistically we needed to ‘just’ keep the Basin on our left. In practice this was not quite so simple. Dead ends, one way streets in villages ensured we could not see the lake for 50 km or so.

What we did find was an extensive bike path network that intersected a road every 100-200 metres meaning stopping, starting, decleating, recleating. I reckon we did this 100-125 times today making it really hard to get into a rhythm.

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This was a quite nice section of bike path.

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FBE2D6B3-BCE4-480B-A076-C7919D6923C5We stopped at a boulangerie for a quick bite as they were about to close for the afternoon siesta. No coffee available. Hmm.

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This is my “it’s hard being ketogenic at French bakeries” face along with ” where am I going to get my coffee from?” face

A little further down the road I found a coffee shop and ordered deux cafe grand crema ( with a clear vision in my head of the one from yesterday!) This is what turned up!

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Deux turned into trois! And nothing like the image in my head! But coffee is coffee.. i downed the two mini espressos. Graeme Wicks, if you are reading this, guess what happened next?

The undoubted highlight of the day’s ride was the tip of Cap-Ferret, with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Basin and Dune du Pyla  on the other. The Basin forms a huge triangle more than 100 km long.

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Todays 80 km ride showing the Basin.

I walked up over the sand dunes at the Cape to the Atlantic Ocean.

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Atlantic Ocean

Back at the Cap, this is the view towards the Dune du Pyla, regarded as Frances most moving monument. It is also the highest sand dune in Europe and growing at around  1-4 metres per year! Currently it is over 105 metres in height.B96E322D-7B0D-4F80-90C0-FFAB0CD8C5BC

570B44F9-C0E6-4BFC-8F74-2D57E3465265With time marching on we needed to get back to Belisaire to catch the ferry to Arachon to then catch our train back to Bordeaux. We could not help but to stop and check out the impressive lighthouse. 65CE0501-ED4D-42B1-B642-A4028B099683

We just missed the ferry and needed to wait for an hour. What to do?

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Oh but I did check out the oyster farm adjacent to the pier. 520D0D4C-FE52-45A3-BDD1-981ED82DEABCE3DA3805-B65A-419D-AA97-D78470CB824A

I am a big kid at heart so could not resist sharing a picture of my new steed from today. CFDEB840-F3DE-42DC-B6F3-BADEF688D5E9

So whilst the day was frustratingly slow, there were many highlights!

Interetingly there seems to be a number of blind people in Bordeaux, tapping their way around the city. I watched one poor lady try to find the road crossing with her stick, tapping all the wrong poles near the roads edge. Without thinking, I dashed across the road, grabbed her arm and took her to the crossing.

The whole way she was saying “merci”. I did talk to her the whole time as I did not want her thinking I was a bad person trying to take advantage of her, but I hoped that she did want to cross that particular road!

Tomorrow we head to St Emilion, 115 km scheduled! Hopefully we have maps tomorrow.

Wandering, pondering and hula hooping!

 

This jetlag is a nuisance. Your body is so totally out of whack and you don’t know whether you are Arthur or Martha. Well ok, I’m Martha, but for those who have done long haul and not slept for 48 hours, they will understand.

A solid sleep of 7 hours was interrupted by an out of whack body. So I gave in and rose early and we hit the streets to check out Bordeaux.

Did I mention coffee? We sat down near La Bourse, overlooking the Garonne. I ordered an espresso but when I saw Tony’s coffee I ordered a second coffee.

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Now that is a decent coffee, ketogenic friendly with scrumptious whipped cream too.

Next thing I found myself sitting on a horribly sloping, slippery wooden seat, in a confessional box in a lovely church I wandered into. I do have a fascination with churches from around the 11-13th centuries, marvelling at how they could achieve such brilliant stone vaulting and arches.

Surely the could have designed better seating in the confessional box? I’m mean if I am going to be there for a while, make me comfortable with a nice leather recliner?

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Not the most comfortable seat in the house!

Bordeaux has some beautiful old buildings and fountains.

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I was particularly impressed with the Monument to the Girondins.

0E1F1A94-801E-4CC1-B172-C31B1BF0DC63I sat on the edge of the fountain for some time, legs dangling, enjoying the sun, mesmerised by the sound of falling water. I allowed my mind to wander, thinking about life and some of its challenges. I think I could easily have fallen asleep but I was aroused from my deliberations with the site of a young bloke.

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I have long held a fascination with Aquitaine, and the region of Bordeaux forms one of its five departments  known as Dordogne. Around 400,000 BC, the first hunters arrived, living in rock shelters making flint tools. Whilst that is cool, my real interest is far more current.

I have a few heroines I favour. My favourite is Eleanor of Aquitaine, an extraordinarily strong woman who lived an extraordinary life. I like her because she  did not take crap from anyone and did what she wanted. She was Queen of France before marrying Henry Plantagenet. Together they ruled England as King and Queen, parents to Kings Richard the Lionheart and John Lackland.

She was a rebel. I admire her ‘ I don’t give a stuff’ attitude to ‘it can’t be done by a woman’ scenarios. She was told a woman can’t rule Aquitaine on her own – but she did. She was told she could not possibly go the The Crusades. But she did and she personally ‘won over’ Saladin.

A few years ago I was so excited when I was able to trace my genealogy to her as my 24th great grandmother, and since then I have traced multiple links via my genealogical research. I like to think I have some of her spark, spunk and zest for life!

So it was natural that I wanted to visit St Seurin’s Basilica, church where she married Henry, right here in Bordeaux.

However after walking there I found out Monday is the only day it closes. So after all that, I will return after one of our day rides, but here is the side door. 5097C33E-F8FE-40C2-9780-D855A95167B4

Below the church the crypt was open, with tombs going back to the second century.

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Heading back to our Air BNB accomodation we passed by the local Cathedral and has a quick squiz.

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To finish on a light note, there are lots of naked men in Bordeaux. I found this fellow ( he is one of many!)

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I also tried hula hooping today. One of my Zwift buddies Brian ( Betty) made me believe this was easy to do. So here I was, in a shop giving it a go. I am sure Eleanor would have applauded  me. I can hear my daughter Hannah saying ” Oh mum!”.

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So next up is a bike ride! Stay tuned!

Are we there yet?

Long haul travelling is not fun, by anyone’s definitions.

Travelling from Devonport to Bordeaux is a long way…a seriously long way, seemingly visiting as many airport as possible en route to maximise the number of handling transfers on the previous cargo.

Oh the precious cargo is not me! I am quite ‘what will be will be’ with me when I fly, although I do have a little ‘superstitious’ routine when boarding the long haul planes..I touch the side of the plane, giving it a quick tap and rub.

The precious cargo is my bike!! Unlike me, it is 100 percent replaceable, whereas I know I am not. I am unique, one off, never to be repeated, they broke the mould when I was made, type of woman. So I know it seems a little incongruous.

Devonport airport, the young buck at the check in counter suggested possibly I would like to pay $972 AUD for ‘excess baggage’. I very politely declined, quoting terms and conditions, showing him where on the website the terms and conditions were located.

HIs final question ” so you are absolutely sure about this?” I nodded and bang the charge was wiped.  If i had been wearing my heart rate monitor it would have revealed one very fast heart beat!

Melbourne to Dubai was via Singapore and the worst part of the whole trip. Just a seriously long time. The upside was that by the time we reached Dubai I had watched a very interesting movie about the King of Norway during WW2, and 8 episodes of the historical drama on the young Queen Victoria.

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Leaving Dubai

Dubai to Madrid was ‘my turn’ to have a window seat, and for me, the most interesting part of the trip. It was daylight and clear and I was able to see just where we were.

Red Sea, Sinai Peninsula, Suez Canal, Nile River were all clearly visible and I was fascinated.

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Sinai Peninsula
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Here we have Egypt on the left, Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia all in one shot. It also shows Eilat ( top left lake) a southern Israeli port and resort town on the Red Sea.
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Suez Canal at Port Tawfiq.
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Nile River mouth past Rashmeed, Egypt
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Spain!

Arriving in Madrid was interesting. Dry and barren topography where olive trees seem to be able to grow in really dry shale

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After clearing passport control in Madrid you then walk for ages, catch a train to go to a different terminal to collect your luggage. Tension was high as we had another flight to go but needed to source our bikes, that often arrive well after ordinary luggage.

Heathrow airport are excellent for bikes, arriving before ordinary luggage. Madrid is the opposite, ensuring nerves are frayed to the maximum! Some 30 minutes after all other baggage had been collected the bikes turned up, appearing to be in excellent condition.

Liberian Airlines insisted that I pay an additional 130 euro for the two bikes. I negotiated that down to a total of 90 euro! They don’t do bike bags as ordinary luggage and I was not confident on that aspect, in Spanish, so pleaded for mercy instead.

So the bikes are now in Bordeaux, reformed into their complete state!

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No bike riding today. Need a day to recover from jet lag for safety reasons. I also have a less serious form of epilepsy that is triggered by extreme tiredness so seems like a sensible idea.

We have one week in Bordeaux, 6 nights in an Air BNB apartment opposite the Aquitaine Museum.

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But as I stand on the apartments little Juliet balcony and look right, just over there on Rue de Victor Hugo is that little cafe now open? I smell an espresso!! Priorities!

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200 Miles – I can, I will…

Disruptive change is a term that is used within my professional work sphere.  It refers to an innovation that creates a new market, disrupting an existing market.

Zwift is a virtual cycling revolution – disruptive change to the way cyclists have traditionally trained and competed, transforming training regimes in a safe environment.

The platform has attracted riders such as Matt Hayman who broke his arm in a cycling accident just 6 weeks out from the 2016 Paris-Roubaix 1 260 km event over cobble stones. By training on Zwift, he won that event!

At this year’s Tour De France,  Mark Cavendish suffered a fractured shoulder blade in a shocking crash 200 metres from the finish line in stage 4 when he tussled with Peter Sagan.  A week later, he was on Zwift training.

Now I like to watch these guys racing on tv – but I am just a 55 year old woman who wants to keep as fit as I possibly can. I like to train before work.  Pre Zwift I was always under pressure to make sure I was home by 8 am, so I could quickly shower and ready myself to leave at 8.30 am.

However, in the process experienced punctures and inclement weather conditions that impeded and stressed me.  I have also collided with a car before work.  So when I learned about Zwift I was keen to see if it would work for me.

The answer is a resounding yes!

Over 18 months I have increased my weekly training load.  In the last 4 weeks, according to Strava my weekly average has been 692 km.  This figure is somewhat distorted given what I did on Saturday – I rode 323 km, or 200 miles.

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Through Strava I met (virtually) Matthew Double, an Adelaide based cyclist, who by any measure, has had a rough couple of years.  Doing this ride showed that by working hard together, with the support of others, you can achieve whatever you set your mind to.

For me it was a challenge as I am not blessed with great knees.  Following an accident and 4 surgeries,  I was told 2 years ago by my orthopedic surgeon that I would be unable to cycle more than 5 km, but if anyone could do it, it would be me. Red rag to the bull moment.  I cried at first, but then got my resolve back, supported by my GP and my physiotherapist.

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Me at my worst – out of bed and onto the bike!  Think I was meant to put the glamour shot in – but this is me at my most basic!

So Matthew and I set out to ride 200 miles – just because!

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The start – 2 lonely riders head out on a long journey!

We started off at just before 8 am and had 3 breaks – 160 km, 230 km and 280 km.  We limited our breaks to 5 minutes to ensure that our legs did not cool down too much, nor our minds!  We would go to the loo, change knicks, more chamois cream, grab food and the ubiquitous coffee!

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What I ate at the 160 km mark – all ketogenic friendly!

We had the most wonderful support on this journey from such a large list of riders including Ed “Cleatless” Ray from Sussex, England who rode with us for 3 hours in the middle of the English night, and Brian Barlow, Yorkshire, England who rode with us from midnight!  Why – just to support us in our goals.

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Zwift has pretty amazing scenery – the fancy Tron bikes dominating this section!

There were multiple Australian riders who spent anything from 30 minutes to 90 minutes just riding with us, keeping us company.  I am a leader with the Spin and Sprint (SAS) Club – and most of the leaders hopped on at different stages to ride with us.  Tony rode 30 km in the morning and backed up later with 100 km.

We chattered heaps – and it really does help to keep your mind in a much more positive frame when things start to ache and hurt.

I was a little teary when I finished – why?  I was so touched by the support received.  This was my goal, along with Matthew’s – yet others were so generous in their time to support us, encourage us.  Most of these people I have not met face to face – I hope to do so over time.

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The finish – 323 km!!

I have pulled up and recovered remarkably well – better than I could have anticipated. Straight after the ride, we hopped into the car and headed down to the local river – Tony sat in the car (it was cold!) headlights pointed into the river, whilst I did my thing.  The next day I did it all over again, in a local creek – and then I had a second go in the ocean.  I really do think the cryotherapy (!!) numbed my knee into a quick remission!

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Post ride – soaking my legs in the freezing Forth River – fairly low tide, sloping bank, fast outgoing current, hoping not to fall over…

I have been knocked by some for doing Zwift versus facing the in real life elements for training.  I have been knocked for the distance I do – but this is my choice, my life, my story!

So stay tuned – Bordeaux is less than a fortnight away.  Touring rides – slower paced as we check out new countryside, and hopefully don’t get too lost!

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Are you the energetic one?

“To ride a bicycle properly is very much like a love affair, chiefly it is a matter of faith – believe you can do it, and the thing is done; doubt it, for the life of you, you cannot” .

H.G. Wells, Wheels of Change, 1896

I was at a family function recently, celebrating the 80th birthday of my father in law Geoffrey.  There were a plethora of family members present that I had not previously met.  As I sat there, I could see these “older ladies” looking at me.  I guess they figured out who I was, but I was not able to match names with faces.

One by one they ventured up to meet and greet me.  One asked “Are you the energetic one?”  I laughed, and said “Yes!

I have had many a laugh to myself since then, but truth be known, I like it!  I mean, let’s face it, there are heaps of worse things I could have been labelled!

I guess, at 55, I am energetic.  I am a lot of other things too.

I am an exceedingly resilient person with a very soft heart. I have faced and survived difficult times.  I don’t have the love and support of my birth family but I survive despite! Is that easy? Heck no!

I hide behind a façade – I am tall for a woman, with a  strong, fast speaking voice complemented with a quick thinking mind.  I also have the ability to do a lot in little time due to being well organised (mostly!) and often cannot understand why people can’t keep at my pace.

Cycling is how I cope with life.  My day starts early, often around 5.20 am and ends around 10.30 pm.  I have a very busy job requiring considerable juggling, conjuring and prioritising.

I ride to keep my mind free and calm as that ensures I can take on all the day will throw at me.

Since I met Tony in 2009 and he started cycling we have had numerous cycling adventures together, having now cycled in England (3 times), Wales, Scotland, France (twice), Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Lichtenstein, Italy and Singapore.

In the next 12 months we will add France (again), Spain, New Zealand and the USA.

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By any measure, I train hard – having averaged 600 km per week for quite a while now.  The last two months have seen me train solely on my wind trainer thanks to the cold and wet Tasmanian winter, and a bushwalking accident that resulted in tearing a tendon in my foot (making it very painful to de-cleat out of cycling shoes).

Cycling on my windtrainer is also very social and global, as I ride with others on a wonderful platform known as Zwift where you can talk to others, ride with them casually or in events. Because my windtrainer is what is referred to as “smart”, when I ride up the hills, it gets harder, and downhill, just like in real life, gets easier.

I have made virtual friends with cyclists  from all over the world, with wonderful names such as Baron Evil Von Braid (Edinburgh, Scotland)  Getoff Mylawn (New York)  Ed ‘Cleatless’ Ray (East Sussex, England), The Badger (Sydney),  MacDeer (Tumut)  and so on – and me, well I am “The Mink”.  Tony is “Old Man Mink” and my daughter Hannah is “Mink Junior”.

In just over five weeks time, the next touring odyssey commences.  Not as long and arduous, but there are some challenges en route.  We will fly to Bordeaux, France, via everywhere (Devonport, Melbourne, Singapore, Dubai, Madrid, Bordeaux).

We will have 6 days in Bordeaux to de jetlag, reassemble the bikes hoping that our babies have arrived 100% intact, and then we hope to do a number of rides in and around Bordeaux – or what I refer to as “The Prologues”.

I have already mapped out a number of day rides to take in the Arachon Basin, St Emilion and other spots along the Garonne.

We will then meet with the Bike Adventures crew to undertake our touring ride to Barcelona.  Technically an easier trip than any of our previous touring trips with shorter days.  Of course there is the little issue of the hilly spot between France and Spain, otherwise known as the Pyrenees.

I will blog the trip, day by day, subject to internet accessibility.

But folks, there is more.   Christmas will be spent in New Zealand riding from Mt Cook to the Ocean.

This all leads up to the mother of them all, Trans USA – an 11 week journey travelling across the USA, starting in Florence (Oregon) finishing in Yorktown (Virginia).  A mere 7500 km!  We will be doing this under the helm and guidance of Bike Adventure’s Steve Wesson (LeJog 2013, L2V 2016) and Kim (France 2015). There will be 10 other riders in our group including Colin (LeJog 2013).  This time next year we will be nearly a fortnight into the trip.

So my motivation at the moment is to build up my fitness and endurance for Trans USA – the fitter and healthier you are, the less chance there is of injury.  You also enjoy it heaps more if you are not stiff and sore!  As most know, I have my physical challenges with 4 x knee surgery and exercise induced asthma being higher level issues that I strive to not let get in my way.

Per H.G.Well’s quote, I have that faith!  I believe in me and my ability to work through the challenges ahead.  I am confident because I know I have put the work in. I cannot control car drivers, the greatest risk of all – I have to keep my fingers crossed on that one!

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