Day 1: Oleggio to Cannobio (Lake Maggiore)

First question…how is Tony?

He slept ok but I could tell he was in pain with various sounds during the night. Apart from his sore and swollen lips, missing skin on his left hand, he also has significant swelling and bruising on his upper thigh. Those upper leg muscles were going to get a workout today, so not ideal for him with a 100 km ride ahead.

Tony’s bike ready to leave our accomodation.The irrigation channel flows directly from Lake Maggiore, our destination today.

Leaving our accomodation it was back up the pot holed, dirt and muddy in places road heading to Oleggio, where we had visited yesterday.

We were on predominantly quieter rural roads for the first 30 km or so. We did pass through a few nice villages. A few shots from the early km’s.

Small village promoting their Gorgonzola cheese
Cycling sign on a building, Mezzomerico
We were in a wine growing region promoted by their Citta del Vino signage. This sign welcomes us to Suno, bids us farewell from Mezzomerico.
Church of Saint Bartholomew, Borgomanero commenced in 1225, but the current facade is baroque from the 1600’s

We commenced our descent to Lake Orta and what a beautiful view. The lake is 13 km long and 2.5 km wide. I had read is was less touristy than the neighbouring Lake Maggiore and added it to our route.

Lake Orta. Snow capped mountains are just coming into view.

Orta San Giulio is a very picturesque village, with narrow cobbled lanes, old stone walls and numerous little piazza’s (squares) dotted with craft and antique shops and cafes.

We could see it ahead, jutted out on a peninsula.

Orta San Giulio

We turned off the main road past the ornate building, which is an expensive hotel boasting a three hat Michelin star restaurant. Only 20 rooms for guests, I had a look to see how much a room would set you back. The cheapest room in the next few days is around 1000 euro. Sure….

Villa Conti. If I had a spare 1000 euro for the room, doubt I could afford the meal. Where would the bikes go?

The tourist buses and cars park near Villa Conti. People either walk down or catch the mini motorised tourist train.

At the base of the hill, by the waterfront is a piazza dotted with cafes and a range of tourist shops.

Nice frescoes on this structure in the middle of the piazza
Tourist shop with flags and frescoes
Narrow cobbled walkways
Boats take paying tourists out to the island Isola San Guilo, housing an old basilica and seminary.

Getting out of this village was not easy. I had tried to,route a traverse route but could not and once in the village could see why. Steep cobbled walk ways and steps were necessary to,find an upper level road. So we pushed our bikes up a 16 percent cobbled gradient until we found bitumen and headed back out to the main road.

The main road goes around this far shore section.

Back on the main road we were heading to the biggest lake town of Omegna, passing through this roundabout, which is my roundabout of the day award.

Not sure what these represent, but they intrigued me.
Quieter section of Lake Orta
Omegna

Omegna was a busy town and we were on a just as busy arterial road out of town heading to Lake Maggiore. However we detoured to ride around the quieter Lake Megozza.

Two pictures of Lake Megozza.

Lake Maggiore is Italy’s second largest lake and is 64 km long by 3-5 km wide. We were now on a shared pathway filled with cyclists of varying capacity, walkers, families out and about as it was Saturday.

The hardest part were some of the older e-bikers who had no sense of their surrounds nor bike handling skills to match the electric power output, and weaved around the whole narrow path, somewhat a menace to other users.

We stopped in the main piazza in Verbania shore side to enjoy some cold refreshments.

Lake Maggiore
Fountain from where we sat

Lake Maggiore has many lovely photo opportunities. Snow capped mountains to the rear.

They even have lemons

We missed the right alley way to turn left and got caught up in a myriad of alley ways trying to get back on route.

This one had interesting art work.

From the alley ways we had to take our bike up 52 steps…..yes, I counted them.

The remains of Castelli di Cannero, near Cannero Riviera are ancient fortifications from the early 1500 ‘s, built over the ruins of an earlier castle.

Houses are built onto the high side of the road, with impressive access roads. I imagine they would have brilliant views.

More lakeside views as we edge our way closer to Cannobio.

Cannobio is a nice lakeside town with an old history. Many of the waterfront buildings are over 600 years old.

We rode through but headed straight to our accomodation as the number of people walking around the piazza made cycling difficult. After showering, we walked back to see the town and more importantly find food.

We ate early at an Italian restaurant on the shore front and we were in bed by 8 pm still adjusting our bodies post jet lag.

Photos from around town post dinner.

Looking towards Switzerland. The border is a few km away.
We used this clock tower as our geographic reference to find our way around the alley ways.
Not sure what the go is here, but there are large plastic frogs hanging from buildings too.
Random plastic swans
An old church that was plain on the outside but amazingly ornate inside. The Minister was just leaving his confessional box,
The range of chimneys intrigued me.

So here we are, done, 100 km, 542 m ascent done. The weather conditions were ideal. A mixture of roads and surfaces, many beautiful vista’s. For Tony less than ideal but hopefully tomorrow his leg will be more comfortable.

2 thoughts on “Day 1: Oleggio to Cannobio (Lake Maggiore)

  1. Sounds like Tony must be coping ok post his mishap? (and the wheel holding up). I hope you have transferred all his gear to your bike to give him some recovery time.

    Shame the church confessional had juat closed – you couls have booked a couple of hours for a little chat Shaz!!

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