Leaving Honfleur we followed the mouth of the Seine along the Reserve naturelle de l’estuaire de la Seine.
You can see the English Channel in the background as well as the port of Le Havre, the second largest port in France, situated on 10,000 hectares of land.

Spanning the mouth of the River Seine estuary, the Pont de Normandie bridge is a prominent landmark. At the time of construction, it was the longest cable stayed bridge in the world. It remains the longest in France still.
You cannot see the cable stays given the light as we rode this morning.



A French snail slimed it’s way across the road. Closer examination, looks the same as Australian snails we thought. 😊

We followed the river for around 10 km before heading inland. This boat rested on grass as we turned right.

There was a section of muddy sludge that went for about a km. When you walk your bike it feels a lot further 🤣😳

Back on the sealed surface was this lovely Mairie (town hall). There are around 36,000 Mairie’s in France. In larger towns they are called Hotel de Ville.

Very annoyingly Tony’s rear wheel broke a second spoke. He was super pissed off.
To have this happen in the middle of nowhere is concerning. I took extra weight onto my bike and we soldiered in to the next major town some 16 km away, Pont Audemer.
When you tour you need reliability.
Pont Audemer narrowly missed being razed to the ground during World War 2. Bombers had been sent to bomb the town but thick fog prevented them from flying in formation, and instead the bombs were dropped randomly, and the historic centre escaped the raid.
The old town is dissected with branches of the Risle River and several canals. It is referred to as “Normandy Venice”. However we did not get to explore this as planned.
We needed a bike shop. We stood in the Main Street. We had no wifi left to search for bike shops. I walked down the Main Street looking for inspiration and found none.
I turned left looking for Tourist Information and saw a supermarket. Then I saw him! A cyclist moving at the rate of knots up the street, over the curve, heading to the supermarket.
I called out to him as he locked his bike to railings. He spoke little English but between my little French and his English we got there.
He purchased his bananas and came back with me to our bikes, then we followed him for maybe 2 km, weaving around streets and ending up on the edge of town at a Giant bike shop, and it was a huge shop!


Inside we met Pauline and Martin, who were brilliant. Pauline made us coffee and Martin fixed the wheel.
In their opinion, the wheel is defective and we need to go back to the vendor, which we have since done, but not yet received a response so unsure of what they are prepared to do on our return.
The wheels are rated for touring with a far greater weight load than we are carrying.

Back on the road we made away towards Rouen. We were thankful that this annoying issue happened on a technically easier day (92 km and less climbing day) but have concerns moving forward and just hope this wheel lasts until we finish.
Little villages, farms, forests, animals marked our route,





We descended back down to the Seine. The foreshore homes here were flash.


We needed to cross the river before Rouen and it is fine via this free ferry service.



Once on the ferry we followed an excellent shared pathway. The closer we got to Rouen the port and industrial structures increased.


In Rouen we passed under this interesting bridge. The centre panel can be lifted by the hoists.


Our accomodation is in the street adjacent to the amazing cathedral. We pushed the bikes past, and would be back visiting soon enough.

Checked in, stored the bikes, showered, laundered clothes and off we went to walk around the historical heart.
Rouen is the ancient Normandy capital and was founded at the lowest point where the Seine could be bridged.
The town is classified as a City of Art and History and has more than 200 protected sites. Unfortunately a great deal of Rouen was badly damaged during World War 2, but extensive reconstruction has taken place to rebuild the mediebal old town.
The cathedral is impressive, and was painted by Monet on numerous occasions. Today’s cathedral is the third in the same location. It was constructed between the 12th and 16th centuries. Nothing of the first exists, and the crypt remains from the second. Close to collapse after World War 2, it has undergone major renovations.
The cathedral spire is 151 metres high and was a world record until 1880.
Inside the cathedral there is an effigy of Richard the Lionheart, that is of particular interest to me – he is the son of ‘my’ Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Richard was a Duke of Normandy and became King Richard II of England. When he died (in France), his heart was removed and buried in this cathedral.
We visited his burial site ( of his body) at Fontvraud last year. Only have his entrails left to visit!
Rollo, the Viking founder of Normandy from the 9th century is also buried here.




We kept walking through the old streets, under the old clock known as Gros Horloge. It was constructed in the 14 th century and installed in a renaissance arch. The mechanism is the oldest in France made in 1389.


We were heading to a other super important historical site, but passed other curios on the way.



La Couronne’s history goes back to 1345 when first established as an Inn, making it the oldest continuously operating French auberge, and one of the oldest in France.
It is located in the Place Du Vieux Marche, a very famous square.
A few doors up is this curious building also operating as a restaurant.

The reason this square is famous is due to Joan of Arc.
This is the square where Joan of Arc was burned to death for heresy. The large cross stands on the exact spot. The church adjacent, with its shaped slate tiled roof, represents the flames.
Joan is now the patron saint of France and honoured as a defender of the French nation for her role in the siege of Orleans, supporting the coronation of Charles VII of France during the Hundred Year War. She c,aimed to be acting under divine guidance and visions.
Sadly it did not end well for her. She stood by her convictions and was killed by the English. Some 20 years later she was exonerated. She was only 19 when killed.




Just 50 metres from our accomodation is this church, Saint Maclou. It is named after Saint Malo and considered one of the finest examples of the flamboyant style of gothic architecture in France. Construction started in 1435.
The church was closed so we in,y viewed from the outside.
It is hard to photograph these churches due to so many buildings nearby. You can’t get far enough back for some shots.




Some of the timbered buildings.






Another day done and dusted. Stressful in part, but thankful to our angels we met in Marc, Martin and Pauline.
Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Hi. Just interested to know if Tony’s rear wheel is a new one or is it the same that has been used on previous trips? As you say, reliability is important. I hope it is smooth sailing for you from here on.
David
LikeLiked by 1 person
He purchased this bike last year and the only trip it has done is Japan. Tony used his Specialized Diverge before.
The wheels are Bontrager, the ones that come with the TrekCheckpoint SL6 recommended by Trek for gravel and bike packing.
Looking at Hunt’s new 34 spoke wheels.
LikeLike
Thanks for getting back to me. Hopefully you will get a favourable response from the manufacturer.
Enjoy the rest of your trip. I am heading off next Saturday to Munich. The week after, I am riding with my two (adult) sons through Germany, Austria, Slovenia and Italy to Trieste. Not quite as extensive as your trip/s but hopefully will go well.
All the besat,
David
LikeLiked by 1 person
Nice! Areas we are looking at next trip, hope you have great weather
LikeLike
Hi Sharron, is the cycle path between Honfleur and Rouen or mainly on roads?
Is there a cycleway map?
thanks
LikeLiked by 1 person
Hi Lorri,
I have just gone and checked the gpx file for this day – and the majority is on roads. I don’t recall any issues though as we did pick a few key towns we wanted to go through – happy to email you the gpx file if you wanted.
Looking further from Rouen you can choose to follow the Seine River as it weaves around as there is a fair amount of cycle path along the way – I chose this route as it was shorter at 92 km – I note that it was not particularly hills with 406 m elevation (and most of that was from the 44 to 47 km points ( climbing from Montfort – sur- Risle to around La Breche d’Illeville).
LikeLike