Day 16: Tralee to Limerick

Today was always going to be anti climatic after four wonderful days on the southern peninsula’s of Ireland with amazing scenery. Today we were heading for Limerick then lining ourselves up to cross Ireland for our ferry to France.

The plan was 30 km on open road, 50 km or so on greenways, and 30 km or so back on the open road, so a 110 km day.

We had a lovely stay with Mary in Tralee. She had put a load of washing on for us and put it on her clothes line. Our clothes smelt wonderful after hand washing since staying with Sue and Alan in Wales.

A yummy breakfast and off we set, straight up a 3 km climb to warm those legs up.

Abbeydorney was the first town, seemingly famous for its ploughing society and train shaped structure.

By 30 km we reached Listowel, a market town situated on the River Feale at the head of the North Kerry limestone plain. The history of the town dates back to 1303.

Listowel castle was built in the 15th century and only this part of the Norman style tower remains. There was a similar second tower. The castle was the last bastion to fall to Elizabeth 1 forces during the Desmond Rebellion (Ireland vs England) in 1569. When captured, all the soldiers were executed.

We had our morning coffee break in Listowel finding this cafe on a corner as we road past. We thought this looked a good place to stop. We look for outdoor seating close to our bikes. We never sit indoors when we have our bikes.

Even of a night, we are looking for fresh air dining given Covid has tripled here in Ireland in the last few weeks.

Nice little square with statue, flowers and a great cafe
Happy Tony

The Limerick Greenway (Great Southern Trail) is a unique 53 km stretch of countryside following the old Limerick-Tralee railway line that was closed in the mid 1970’s.

It has been very well constructed with many bridges above, greenery, signage, tables to rest at, bike maintenance areas ( air pumps, tools).

We saw a range of users. Walkers, runners, cyclists (touring, social and active), parents with prams and kids with little bikes and dogs.

Informative panels with some history,

A few remaining old buildings from railway days.

Near Newcastle West we stopped to eat some food we had with us. The wind had been shite again (very annoying how it had turned from a SW to a NW as we were now heading N).

Great signage advises you what is where.

These young lads made us laugh. They were acting super tough as they passed by. It was not THAT warm either, but I guess when you are tough you can cope.

We now only had about 15 km of greenway left, so we pushed on, but also stopped for photos.

We passed through so many of these today. Here are four gates, two either side of a laneway. The gates slow the users down when there is a road or driveway to cross. It works well as a user calming device.

Back on the road again with 30 km left, we had a great verge. It suddenly stopped. There was a EuroVelo 1 sign to the left. Our route went straight ahead.

We did stop to discuss this, but given the great verge proceeded per our route.

Should have taken EV1.

Ahead was a road block some 2 km out from Adare. It continued through the town and out the other side. I have never ridden in anything quite like it. We did not skirt around the traffic, holding our spot mid lane as that is safest in the circumstances (and no verge).

A real problem to be addressed as the town is super popular with tourists, adding to the traffic congestion.

Adare overlooks the fording point of the RIver Maigue from which the village derives its meaning “The ford of the oak”. Picture postcard thatched cottages line its main street. There are medieval buildings, ancient and archaeological ruins. Hence the tourists.

The Augustinian Friary was as we left town. In 1316 they were given this land and constructed the abbey. It is also known as the Black Abbey.

As part of the Tudor (ie Henry VIII) suppression of Irish monasteries, the Augustinians were driven out of Adare and moved to Limerick in 1633.

We crossed a bridge, still in heavy traffic, with nowhere to stop and noted this castle on the rivers edge. A stolen photo, it is Desmond Castle, also from the early 1300’s ultimately dismantled by Cromwellian forces (the era between Charles 1 and Charles II under the protectorship of Oliver Cromwell).

Limerick is a beautiful city located on the River Shannon. Home of The Cranberries and Pulitzer prizewinning author Frank McCourt, it was to be our home this evening.

Overall the traffic was fairly ok as we approached a large city. Bikes can use the bus lane providing us with plenty of space. This is indicated by signs and writing on the lanes.

Of course, that is unless you are a taxi driver it seems. We had one cut in and and swerve very closely around Tony missing him by maybe 10 cm.

We all pulled up at the red lights, his passenger front window was down, and I asked him if he was aware of the 1.5 metre rule in Ireland. He responded he was allowed in the bus lane. I told him, you are required to give 1.5 metres to a cyclist, and that he was in my opinion, a dangerous taxi driver. I am sure he was glad when the light turned green but I do hope he pays more attention to cyclists safety moving forward.

After settling in to our accomodation (huge room, can sleep five people), we set off for a walk to see King John’s castle.

Following the riverside walkway we walked through the old potato market up to St Mary’s cathedral. Founded in 1168 and the oldest building in Limerick in continuous use. It has a roof high monks walk, damage from 17th century cannonballs and a ‘lepers squint’ (a small opening in the cathedral wall through which lepers in medieval times could hear mass”.

King John’s castle is perched on King Island, by the fast-flowing Shannon. It has been here for over 1000 years and is thought to have been built on an earlier Viking site.

Last admission is at 5 pm. We got there at 5.13 pm…..ah, the Chepstow curse continues.

Over the road from the castle is an old toll house.

We headed back along the river to find our dinner.

An interesting day made tougher by the wind. We had two climbs as you can see below, and we rode 110 km.

Tomorrow is of concern. There is a large rain band on the radar with yellow and green and red, the colours you do not want. Winds over 50 kmh ( headwinds).

We have a few possible plans as options and will wait until morning to decide what to do. We need to move on as w have a ferry to catch on Saturday.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

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