Day 11: Cobh to Union Hall

I did something today that I do not recall happening before. The house we stayed in is very old. The floors are not even. I felt that the bed was on a slope.

During the night, sound asleep, I must have rolled over, and I fell out of bed, hitting my face on the bedside table as I crashed onto the timber floor from the high bed. It woke me up 😳🤣

I did get back to sleep but it took a while.

Looking out the window in the morning this was the view.

Looking straight ahead towards Spike Island
Looking hard right, a large cruise ship had arrived in town. Many of the larger towns today had cruise ship, bus tour people just wandering around. We did not hang around. Anything you tried to photograph, they were sitting on! Give us the quietness and genuineness of the little villages

The allotted croissants had not arrived per the male owner’s time slot. We were super keen to pack the bikes and get cracking so I took a few pieces of our luggage down to the front door, with reason, as the kitchen is adjacent.

I found Mary busy chatting to other guests, and as they left, took our croissants outside to where our bikes were safe in the courtyard. We smashed the croissants down, packed our bikes and headed off.

Soon enough we were in our way, and first stop was this statue celebrating Annie Moore and her two brothers who emigrated to New York from Cobh. They were the first immigrants to be processed at Ellis Island. A similar statue is on display at Ellis Island.

Then it was a 3.5 km ride to the ferry. We waited for it to arrive, walked the bikes on, and then it waited maybe 10 minutes for anyone else to board.

It costs about 3 euro each way and only takes about 5 minutes to cross.

On the Glenbrook (southern) side is another statue of a young woman holding a boat looking towards where the Sirius left to emigrate to America. the Sirius was the first steamship to make the trans Atlantic crossing with immigrants.

Up to 2 million Irish immigrated after the Great Famine. Death from the famine and immigration saw a loss of 25% of the population.

Water was to be a feature today as we crossed rivers, inlets and saw the coastline as we headed in a south west trajectory. Wind was the other feature. The forecast was for a WSW wind of 32 kmh. It was very tough.

At times, on the flat, we struggled to push 12 kmh into the headwind. At other times, the road might deviate to a different angle and we would welcome a short reprieve. Out of the wind when we rested, it was quite warm and we enjoyed the sun.

Lovely rural scene
Disengaged bus tourists sitting on what I wanted to photograph
Near the top of a climb. We climbed over 1200 metres today.
Lovely sea inlet. The tides were fairly low.
Very flat beach, low tide.
An inlet
Quirky roadside feature
Looking towards the ocean
An old derelict church
A newer church

Timoleague Abbey is the main focal point in Timoleague standing picturesquely at the water’s edge at the head of a long sea inlet. In its day it was one of the largest and most important religious house in Ireland. It was founded in 1240 by the Franciscans.

A little further on was the old Arundel Grain store built in the 16th century to store grain for a nearby flour mill. Later it stored potatoes and coal. In 1837 the local port of Ring exported 5,000 bushels of wheat, 1,000 tons of potatoes and large qua titles of ‘superior’ slate.

We stopped at this intersection. Our route was heading left, but we noted EuroVelo went straight ahead. We changed plans and took EV1, as Tony said ‘it surely won’t have a nasty hill’. But it did 🤣

As we crossed the top the sea views came into focus.

Castlefreke Beach at Warren Bay was the place to be. These swimmers have a seriously strong headwind smacking into them and it is only 17c. The beach also had a portable barrel shaped sauna that people were hopping into after the beach.

The scenes as we headed south were delightful. Remote housing, green pastures, wind blown, like a rural tv show with mystery.

I quite like this one as I finish yet another climb. Note the birds to my right.

What a gorgeous vista these houses have.

Desolate isolation of an old church.

Another beach with the waves smashing in.

After climbing up the hill, there was a lay by we pulled into.

Looking south
Information board on the area and the worlds most powerful lighthouse

The Wild Atlantic Way is a 2,600 km route (road) and one of the longest defined routes in the world. We are only riding a section of the route from south of Cork around to Limerick, before we cut back to Cork to catch the ferry to France.

There is signage along the way. Route signs plus metal art, all with the same waves,

Dromberg Stone Circle, the Druid’s Alter, is a small axial stone circle, and one of the most visited megalithic sites in Ireland.

It originally consisted of 17 closely spaced stones, of which 13 survive. Radiocarbon dating of samples indicate it was constructed around 1100-800 BC.

The only other people there when we visited were these three French siblings enjoying a touring ride together. Michael, Laura and David live in Grenoble. They will be heading to Australia in a few months, and if visiting Tasmania, have offered them beds at our house.

It was refreshing to see their closeness and joy in their touring endeavours. Tres Bon!

Closing in on tonight’s destination, the waters were calm and protected! Finally some reprieve.

Glandore is known locally as Cuan Dor – Harbour of the Oaks. It was one of the earliest settlements in West Cork, with the Normans building two castles here in 1215.

Union Hall is a small fishing village, with its own ice plant and fish processing factory.

A borrowed photo aerial view of Union Hall. Our accomodation is at the top of the hill in the background.
In town the inner harbour
Local roadside art

As time was getting on, and the accomodation was up a hill, we decided to grab dinner first. We ordered at this pub as there were seats outside, so we could keep an eye on our bikes.

Whilst we waited for our dinner, Tony changed my brake pads as I’ve worn a set out already! That’s probably a record for me at 1,000 km and indicates how hilly it has been. Thankful Tony can do it for me too.

After dinner getting up to our accomodation was hard. Cold legs, full tummy, steep hill are not great partners.

Our room here is amazing. It is very large and spacious with beautiful views.

We were given options of 7.30 am or 9 am for breakfast 😳🤣 I said 7.30 am please. She responded “that was quick, you didn’t have to think about it?” No….

Another day (105 km, 1200 m climbing) and that’s a wrap. Thanks for reading. 😊❣️

5 thoughts on “Day 11: Cobh to Union Hall

  1. Ali's avatar Ali

    another beautiful route and some amazing views – glorious! You two are machines – no matter how many hills or whatever the weather, you just keep on turning. Kudos by the bucket load!

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