Day 37: Vœgtlinshoffen to Stein

The last day. One that I often feel melancholy about.

We were motivated by the heat to leave early. We were on the road by 6.25 am. Another hot day forecast.

It’s a great time of day to ride. The air is that bit fresher, no one is around.

Looking towards our destination. To the left, that’s the Black Forest region of Germany.

Ahead a series of villages, nestled between vineyards, at the base of the Vosge Mountain foothills.

The first village we ride to is Gueberschwihr. A gorgeous village, and one of my favourites. It also has a wonderful shop that opens at 6.30 am, Epicerie du Vignoble.

It sells a wonderful range of local products from cold meats, cheeses, boulangerie items, drinks, condiments and I have a ball selecting breakfast.

We eat outside in the shade by a fountain, with large carp hanging around looking for anything we might drop.

Some photos from this village.

It would seem that the locals park their cars in this square as the rest of the village is super narrow alleys and lanes.
Bikes outside the shop

I do love the overshop signage.

With our hunger satiated, we leave town this way.

Another string of German named French villages included Pfaffenheim, Rouffach, Merxheim, Raedersheim, Ungersheim, Ensisheim and Battenheim.

Riding between the villages, was my favourite part. Sometimes flat, sometimes rolling up and down.

Short video Tony took

Nice village fountain and older building.

Reckon this was in Ungersheim,😊

We reach the Canal du Rhone au Rhine, a 237 km canal connecting the Saone River to the Rhine River.

We’ve ridden parts of this canal before as it winds down through Dole and Bescanon, featured in our 2022 cycling odyssey.

The screw generator was working today. I’ve not seen one operating before. I’m intrigued by them, having had two clients in north west Tasmania looking at installing them on their rural properties. They both had creeks that featured a drop in levels.

The canal is peaceful and we did find a shady spot to chillax.

All roads were leading to the Rhine River, our way to finish line.

Huningue is where we say farewell to France. There is a bridge here across to Germany, but we keep riding into Switzerland.

I was low on water here. French water fountains are usually non potable water.

There is a popular canoe training spot in the canal.

We cross the border and here is our first Swiss fountain. The water is potable so we fill up. Very popular with many cyclists stopping.

Basel ahead. It is quite warm now at 34c.

On the left bank you can see a tall two tower building. That is Roche headquarters and Switzerlands tallest building. My son Ben has his office there.

Being such a hot day, and a Saturday, locals are making use of the cool waters of the Rhine.

The cathedral in the background, water skiing and swimmers mixing it together.
It is a popular activity to float down the river, get out, walk back, repeat.

By now, we are keen to finish and get out of the heat. It is slow going getting through Basel with people everywhere.

We cross underneath a large network of roads. It is familiar to us as we got lost here in 2016 on the London to Venice ride.

There is a supermarket on one side that we head over to and purchase more cold drinks and some food, standing in the shade to consume.

We have about 35 km remaining.

We just do it! Stopping in the shade here and there, melting more as we go along.

There was no melancholy today. Just wanted to get there and out of the over bearing heat.

No more photos. No stopping in Rhinefelden (been there multiple times).

A few climbs sap us, but we arrive right back where we started, soaked in sweat, thankful for the cool garage at my son’s place.

It was 36c when we finished.

The bikes are as we left them upon arrival.

That is our next job, to clean and pack them for the long haul trip home.

Late afternoon we walk down the hill, through Stein and across the bridge to Germany (Bad Sackingen) where we find icecream then dinner, yes in that order.

Our final days route. In the last two days we found a better map app to show our route.

We are very pleased that we have done the trip, more or less as planned. Whilst we had the hiccup of my health issues after the fall, we were able to tweak and keep moving forward.

The trip does not just happen.

You have to put the work into being fit enough in the first place to ride 3,300 km.

We have averaged 89 km per day for 37 consecutive days.

That is a tough ask on two 64 year olds, one having had open heart surgery.

We are thankful it all worked out.

Mechanically, no issues. No punctures.

A lifetime of memories, wonderful friends we’ve caught up with, so much we have seen, heard, smelt on the bike.

It sustains us until next time.

To those who support us, thankyou. Your messages via pm and comments on the blog and fb are appreciated.

I’ve been asked, what is next?

Ooh that will narrow down in the next few months. There are about five concepts running through this little head of mine.

Now it’s time to go home, get Khaleesi, bitch about the cold and rain, get back to work.

Ooroo 😊🚴💪❣️

Day 36: Vosges villages and vineyards

A beautiful sunrise, looking out our back deck, towards the vineyards, and Germany’s Black Forest.

The weather forecast…hot, hot, hot.

We needed food, having had only coffee, and the local bakery not yet open. So we set off at about 6.45 on our day ride. It was 24C already.

This Air BnB is great, but the second B does not exist.

Today we would ride through many villages in the Alsace region of France. Half timbered buildings with incredible history, rolling hills, vineyards.

There are so many villages, and I’m sure to get photos wrong. We rode through … Husseren-les-Chateaux, Enguisheim, Wettolsheim, Wintzenheim, Turckheim, Ingersheim, Katzenthal, Ammerschwihr, Kayserberg, Riquewihr, Hunawinr, Ribeauville, Bergheim, Rorschwihir, Saint Hippolyte, Bergheim, Bennwihr, Colmar and Obermorschwihr.

Phew…I knew there were a lot of them!

Here is our route map.

More detail Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

We went straight into a climb up to Husseren-Les-Chateaux. No warming the legs up.

This was at the top of that climb.

Nice views, although the air quality was not great in the distance.

The first half of the ride today, we went up, we went down. Good to do 6 of the rated climbs before it got unbearably hot.

There was a common theme. Cute villages, quirky features, half timbered, cobbles, narrow streets, all around ‘centerville’.

The approaches to the villages was excellent.

We found food in Kayserberg, and we sat in a shady spot by the river, that I knew about, as I’d sat there in 2019 on a solo ride ( I was visiting Ben and did a day trip to this area).

Back then, it was crowded with tourists, but today the tourists had not yet arrived! So we enjoyed 30 minutes in relative peace.

The photos, just going to roll with them.

Love this scene, super common today
So many cute shop signs
Avoiding the cobbles where I can
We sat to the left of this river
The history…
Selfie by the bridge
Chateau de Kayserberg ruins, looking back as we left, riding along a vineyard route.
More distant view again.
We climb up, views below
Narrow streets, cars go both ways in these streets.
This was the start of a climb. Slippery cobbles.
Watching Tony take photos of the Porte.
Bit nasty
Interesting, not sure of the story behind this one. Looks a bit out there for Joan of Arc.
More old portes
Old fortifications
Cobbles and two way streets 🙈
Old castles
No cobbles 😝
Flowery point of interest
Chateau du Haut Koenigsbourg
Sunflowers just starting to open. Will be glorious in the next few weeks.
Wheat fields, contrasting with the vineyards
More wheat

We made it into Colmar. It was now in the mid 30s. We’d had a few stops for drinks along the way but needed more liquid.

Neither of us had peed since leaving, a sure sign we still were not drinking enough. We were using rehydration tablets as well.

So a large supermache appeared by divine intervention. Liquids were consumed plus quite a large quantity of lemon gelato.

Sparkling water is a favourite.

Some of our purchase. Another three bottles of drink, plus protein foods.

Colmar was busy. A larger version of the smaller villages with heaps more tourists. We took photos then Tony said ‘no more’.

Pushing and slotting the bikes through crowds who have no spatial awareness is stressing.

The heat was overbearing.

So I present Colmar.

From Colmar it was about 10 km back. We did the first 6 km ok, then the last 4 was all climbing back up the hill.

With one km remaining (the steepest part), we stopped at the fountain in Obermorschwihr. We wet our heads, necks, chest, back with the non potable water.

It helped.

We made it to the top. My Hammerhead said 45c ( it was not that hot but the direct heat onto it was unabated with no trees).

It was a great 75 km loop today but the heat is not tolerable.

We have sat inside in the air conditioned unit and got ourselves ready for an earlier start for our final day.

It’s going to be another hot one!

Day 35: Plainfaing to Vœgtlinshoffen

We knew today was likely to be tougher, courtesy of the extreme weather forecasts in France currently.

We are not hot weather riders, period!

We had a nice French breakfast hosted by our lodge owner, a really friendly chap who has tried super hard.

He saw us off still smiling, surprised that we were turning left, not right.

Left goes up to Col de la Schlucht. We had to get over the Vosges to get back to Switzerland.

So we started climbing and kept climbing for 19 km. The first half far gentler than the second half.

Here’s our graph.

The weather was already a warm 21c.

The start, just a few hills at the back.

We climbed past this confectionery makers place.

Agricultural fields.

Forest.

A video Tony took early on.

Climbing comfortably.

Nice little church.

The first half were gradients under 5%. I could see from the graph that the second half would be tougher as the graph was yellow and read, so 5-10%.

The road was in good condition.

About 2 km from the top you reach a large junction, we turned left.

There was a shady spot and it seemed to be where all the cyclists rested before finishing the climb.

The last few km were easy and here is the sticker infested sign. A real shame you can no longer read it. It is at 1,139 metres. Certainly not as high as the alp climbs, but a 19 km climb and still good altitude.

We stopped at a cafe buying cold drinks and glasses of ice.

It was now 28c.

Over the road, a variety of outdoor activities including toboggans.

An awesome descent on an even better seal. Lovely Vosge valley views.

Rock tunnels.

Tony taking photos at a lookout.

Getting low now.

Munster is the first larger town. Lots of cobbles that were not laid on a flat surface. Terrible rollercoaster through one section that rattle your teeth.

Some nice buildings in town.

A big cow!

Further on we pulled into Turckheim and spent about an hour in a shady spot we found.

We could not check into our accommodation until 3 pm. Bit of a quandary given the heat forecast. We trimmed our ride back 20 km or so to minimise the impact.

After an hour, the sun was hitting our legs, and a pigeon had schat on my head. Tony’s aunt tells me that is good luck!

We rode on through a few villages getting closer to our destination.

The village of Wettolsheim was quiet.

So quiet, it has a silence office!

Riding in through vineyards to the next village.

Eguisheim is larger, cobbled, narrow and dead end alley ways but some lovely buildings.

At the church, there are a few strategically located stork nests, with the chicks peeking out.

Here I am in the shade. It is now in the high 30’s. We are only about 5 km or so away but a hill to climb. No avoiding it.

Totally melted. Where are those 10 icy poles?

Back through more vineyards.

Climbing up the 150 metres ascent in 38c. It is very hot in the open with no shade. Tough little climb.

Thank goodness. I could almost sit under that water.

We have more time to kill so check out the village of Vœgtlinshoffen. The bakery has closed, and the only thing around are wineries. None of those seem open to buy non alcoholic drinks.

Dinner is looking sparse. How many snickers bars and nuts do we have?

3 pm we check in. The unit is air conditioned and cool. We shower and use the washing machine, drying our clothes in no time.

I go over Internet maps and see the possibility of a pop up pizza van at 5 pm, but alas it did not appear.

The owners tell us it should be there at 6 pm. It is still stinking hot as we walk up the short hill for the second time.

It was there and we ordered two pizza and four drinks, had to collect 30 minutes later. A third walk up the hill in the heat.

We ate half the pizza and the remainder tonight, but hopefully can bring some other food back that won’t spoil.

We have now ridden 3,121 km, two days remaining.

We are likely to modify the rides and start times to cope with the continued heat warnings.

Thanks for reading.