Mother and son

A few years ago my second son Ben moved to Switzerland..and yes, there was a young lady involved.  Since then, she has become my daughter in law! I was in Switzerland May 2018 for their wedding.

Happily living and working in Switzerland means I do not get to see them often, so I took the opportunity for a short break to fly over and see them…oh, and of course I brought my touring bike with me!

I arrived yesterday afternoon in Zurich after four flights. I grabbed a hire car and then drove to Therwil, on the outskirts for Basel some 95 km from Zurich.

Ben has taken a couple of days leave to be with his dear, old mum. Fortunately I am in better knick than Ruth Cracknell’s version of Mum.

Despite my jet lag, we headed off on a ride through the adjacent local forest up a series of gravel paths. They wind around farms and crown land.

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The sign above, in German, is warning users of the risk of bushfire given recent dry conditions drying out the forest. This place is so green compared to Australia.

Switzerland has a brilliant network of bike trails, using existing tracks and roads. They are well signposted.

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They have well constructed bridges for shared use with walkers and cyclists. This was a nice river crossing.

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In 2016 Tony and I rode through this area, en route London to Venice. We passed through Augusta Raurica and saw a very interesting Roman ruin. Here I am in 2016.

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So I was keen to see more of this area as the area is a Roman archaeological site, and the oldest known Roman colony on the Rhine River, settled around 44 BC, in the vicinity of a local Gallic tribe.

Today many ruins have been discovered and preserved. However over 80% of the area is still to be ‘discovered’ awaiting the advent of advanced imaging.

First stop was an area of Fort wall, where a significant silver treasure trove of over 50kg of pure silver objects in 1962.  The treasure chest had been buried in 350 AD.

They sure built thick walls!

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The next spot was the base of the old church constructed between 360-400 AD. For part of its existence it served as the seat for the Bishop. By 749 AD the Bishop relocated to Basel.

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This picture below shows the church, above the archaeological section we viewed.

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Old gravestones have been found including these two.

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Leaving the old church, we followed the narrow track adjacent to the beautiful Rhine River.

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The Rhine baths were next. They were built around 260AD and were still in use until the 4th century.  Today the only remains are the underground installations, walking on the floor of the underground heating system.

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Wooden shoes were required to be worn in the ancient baths so as not to damage the floor.

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The next site is where craftsman made and sold their wares.

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The highlight is the ancient theatre. Workman were packing up from a Roman weekend festival.

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The steps to the old temple.

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The ancient amphitheatre barely exists, but the picture showed what it once looked like.

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Very little remains now bar the basic shape. The vegetation has taken over the former seating.

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Finally, we visited the former East gate and town wall, funerary monument, complete with a mini animal farm.

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Finally, back to my view from 2016. Looks like the vegetation has grown!

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It was stinking hot today. The temperature was over 33 degrees Celsius and we were 10 degrees Celsius when I left Tasmania on Saturday afternoon. It was a shock to the body and plenty of water was being drunk.

Water is available in all villages, as they all have sparking clean, cool water at fountains like this one.

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We rode on parallel with the Rhine to Rheinfelden, a very pretty town, also visited during our 2016 trip.

The town has a bridge across the Rhine. So yes, that is Germany in the background. Plenty of people sunbaking and swimming from the island in the middle of the river.

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Beautiful Rheinfelden.

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Over the bridge into Germany and we rode parallel again to the Rhine, but heading back towards Basel.

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Eco friendly church.

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Another fountain. We both tossed out our remaining water here as the water was warm, and refilled with this lovely cool water.

The forest behind the church is part of the great expanse of famous German Black Forest.

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From this Rhine River view we could see bathers swimming in Switzerland!

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Ben has never been keen on having his photo taken, but his annoying mother got one!

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This was intriguing. Ben told me that in another hour or so, hundreds and hundreds of people would converge on the river, with bags, and float downstream.

You can see some swimmers with their bags below.

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We rode past where Ben works. He works on the 14th floor of Switzerland’s tallest building owned by Roche.

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Basel Cathedral.

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It was a lovely ride. So nice to be able to ride with one of my kids. Not sure how he will pull up as it was a bit further than he is used to.  I think we rode about 56 km.

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Thanks for reading….I will have to plot another ride for tomorrow next!!

 

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Tough but rewarding day on the bike

A great ride again today, tough because of the amount of climbing. Rewarding due to the scenery and achieving the tougher physical effort.

Leading Passau we made our way over the bridge to look at the town and the raging rivers. The third river, Ilz, seemed calm and passive.

Initially we had been concerned that perhaps the cycle path may be impacted on the ‘other’ side, but there were no issues as the cycle path is quite high up. Lower walkways were submerged.

We found a mermaid.

We had wondered whether the cruise boats still operate during floods. We passed a couple tied up, buses off loading passengers and luggage and seemingly boarding.

Then we saw this one creating quite a bow wave as it fought against the flood waters. The boat appeared to have no passengers.

Even in flood, the Danube is in a beautiful setting.

Leaving the river, we turned left, and this is where the hard work started. Today we climbed heaps. This is made harder for us given the extra weight we are carrying ( luggage wise).

Here is our climbing graph. You can see numerous climbs, including two longer ones at the 20 km and 43 km points. The latter one was a mongrel!

In between climbs (you tend not to stop and take photos whilst climbing), there were lovely views. At the end of the first longer climb, there was a cafe calling our name to stop! It had quirky ‘art work’ predominantly made from recycled horse shoes.

We checked our data and realised then that we had a bigger climb still to do. Bugger.

What we did not realise was that we would be crossing borders into Austria. We thought we farewelled Austria yesterday. Austria was looking great, gentle rolling hills. Germany was just over a creek the road ran parallel to.

Then it got nasty. That second climb was tough. Still riding at tempo pace, the climb gave me a personal best FTP of 216 Watts ( previously 201 Watts) so I was really happy as I still had more in the tank.

At the top there was a lodge (no food or drink available until 2 pm, and we were not hanging around), and cute animals and wooden figurines. We had Euro on us, but out if Czech money hence our desire to eat in Austria.

We rolled down the hill and just like that we are back in the country where our journey started over 4 weeks ago.

Czech Republic was looking good too.

We stopped at a pub and had a bowl of goulash each. Very cheap and they took Euros! For 7 Euro we had a bowl of soup, a large bottle of frizzante and Tony a soft drink. Cheaper than Austria where morning tea was 15 Euro.

A few other bikes in the rack too.

Rolling along the afternoon was much easier.

We arrived in Cesky Krumlov to hoardes of tourists and cobblestones, so we walked the last km to locate our accomodation. Riding on cobblestones paved so unevenly hard, let alone avoiding tourists.

We are spending two nights here so we can have a good look around tomorrow.

Our apartment is very close to this castle.

Day 32, done and dusted. How time flies by, and wow, we have certainly covered some ground.

Todays map. I made it a bit smaller so you can see Prague. It’s within a few hundred km if we go directly. If the weather holds, Tabor may be next.

Thanks for reading

Ooroo

Passau

It was a great day today. The weather was great! Not too hot, not too cold. A headwind, but not too bad!

As the day rolled on, we realised just how lucky we have been on this journey that started one month ago now. The incredible rains had finally ceased but the consequences for many not.

Leaving Salzburg was somewhat easier than other larger cities with the exception of roadworks here and there. Reasonably quickly we were out in the country again. Small villages were the norm. We scouted around a reasonable sized lake, Obertrumer See and then Grabensee.

A few things caught our interest in the town of Mattighofen. That unusual building is the KTM Austrian bike manufacturer so Tony very interested given his racing past.

Unfortunately the cafe that welcomes bikers was closed, but we found another one not too far away.

My front disc brakes had been making some awful noises. Fortunately Tony is pretty handy mechanically and replaced them during our coffee break.

More rural scenes through agricultural fields, small streams, quiet roads, and the occasional village church.

A cycle route runs alongside the edge of the River Inn, the same river that flows through Innsbruck. You will recall that the river was in flood from the terrible storms in Europe in the last fortnight, that had mucked up some of our rides.

We really enjoyed the tracks although predominantly gravel. At least they had dried somewhat with no rain in the last day. The first photo is a lagoon that is off the River. There was a little shack like cottage.

My kids would laugh at the witch on the broomstick as I used to joke that I was a witch per the Roald Dahl book of the same name. It was one of my favourite Dahl books that I used to read to them.

Obernberg am Inn had a very impressive old market square.

We pulled into a service station for some frizzante! Not any ordinary service station as it was just off the autobahn, that seemed to be favoured by more trucks than I have ever seen.

The truck queue for diesel was three wide, 100 metres long. I was fascinated just watching. As we headed back to the river, we past multiple truck parks, where the drivers were napping.

Back onto the river tracks was much quieter and safer.

We reached Scharding, a very pretty village.

This was our last village in Austria, as we crossed the bridge here. The first photo is roughly the border of Germany and Austria. the second is looking back at Austria.

The village on the German side is Neuhaus am Inn. You can see the bridge we had just crossed. Note how muddy the waters are too. The river levels are high.

A few pictures of German villages. Look at that sky!

For our final fling into Passau we found ourselves on a wonderful forest trail. Up and down, challenging in parts, but ever so pretty.

We found our way into the Old Town reasonably easy. It is handy to use the river as your reference point.

Passau is famous for a few reasons. Its location is at the confluence of three rivers, the Danube, Inn and Ilz.

It is very old, first mentioned as a Roman provincial town. With the establishment of an episcopal residence in 739, the city life of Passau began. In the 13th century, bishops became rulers of the independent, small principality. In 1803, Passau became a Bavarian City.

After the successful conclusion of the latest round of ‘where can we leave our bike’ negotiations concluded ( in my favour….they are in the luggage room, not the garage as they initially stated!), we showered and started walking.

We stumbled upon St Stephens Cathedral first. Still open we wandered inside. It was burned down in the city’s 1662 fire and rebuilt by a famous baroque architect, and other baroque artists completed the stucco and frescos.

The organ in the Cathedral is the largest in the world, with 17,974 organ pipes and 233 stops. All five parts of the organ can be played from the main console, individually or simultaneously.

Next we headed to the Danube…..ah, there were issues. That is the cycling path we are due to take tomorrow!

The conjunction point of the three rivers was obviously closed. With the flooding of two major rivers, there would be only one way to see it.

Now this boat ended up reversing. It would not fit under the bridge.

I think the next two pictures are the only way.

A few other shots before we grabbed some dinner. The first is Fortress Veste Oberhaus, one of Europe’s largest preserved castle complexes. It would be interesting to visit but not on this trip.

Back at the hotel, I have been reading the news reports of the flooding devastation in Germany and the Czech Republic. Hungary has been bracing for the full impact and fury of the Danube, sandbagging Budapest. Three weeks ago we rode along the S Bends from Esztergom to Budapest. Most of that would be flooded as it was quite low lying.

Tomorrow we are due to ride on cycle path on both sides. We know this side is ‘unavailable’ and suspect the same for the other. Tweaking will be required.

Final photo. Check this guy out on his bike on the cobbles.

Todays route and chart.

Thanks for reading

Ooroo