Day 33: Saarlouis to Mittersheim

It was very busy at breakfast. A Special Olympics group were in with their minders. One of the athletes said ‘morgen’, in the loudest voice, to everyone entering. He was happy and we can all learn something from his L carefree attitude to the day ahead.

Certainly the previous day we rode the prettiest part of the Saar river.

The first half of today’s 89 km ride was heavily industrialised. Not all we see is nice.

Saarstahl dominates with multiple steel manufacturing sites.

You can’t avoid ugly in our long trips

There are pockets of peace.

We started in Germany but at an unidentified point crossed into France.

We found one flag flying along with the Eu flag. This is at a lock. We rode past many locks today.

A canoe centre with nice art work.

Villages and towns dotted the river.

We liked this one.

A closer view of this boat, noting the water reflection. Quite clever.

The river was to our left and now we were on a canal path. A very shallow and green canal.

The canal path was very quiet and peaceful, with little other users. There was an occasional runner or walker, and a handful of cyclists.

It was very quiet with little traffic noise.

The riding was easy so we chillaxed.

Check-in was not until 5 pm today and we were likely to reach Mittersheim with hours to spare.

Chapel high up the hill.

The Maginot Line was a French military failure. It was developed after the French lost 1.4 million troops in WW1. It was designed to force invading armies to move around the fortified eastern front, towards Belgium where the French troops would be waiting.

The French also assumed the Ardennes were impassable.

In 1940, the German army pushed through the Ardennes, bypassed the fortifications, attacked from behind leading to the fall of France.

We’ve seen many on this trip. This one is locked and adjacent to the river.

The board shows additional structures over the river. Only the piers remain today.

I liked this vista.

The Swan family made us smile, with their three youngsters in the slipstream, safe.

We are near the end of the Vallee de la Sarre. Regular boards along the way, pointing out local features.

Not far to go now.

We arrive three hours early and park ourselves by the canal, under cover.

We were delighted to receive a message that we could check in two hours early as the lady was back from an appointment.

We were only 450 metres away, so arrived at 3 pm.

Our host is a younger woman, Ariane, who through Air BNB lets her private unit out. It is a barn like renovation. She lives with her mother in another part.

Mother for a fee, cooks dinner and breakfast.

This is the renovated barn.

Up the spiral staircase
Looking down and towards her other section
Nice backyard

We had an amazing three course meal, plus gifted a bottle of homemade apple juice and a cheese platter with local cheeses.

It’s been wonderful to chat with Ariane too.

Tomorrow is a tougher day as we start two days of climbing and traversing the Vosges Mountains. Another heatwave is on the way too.

We have now ridden just under 3,000 km, four days cycling left to conclude this wonderful adventure.

Thanks for reading.

Day 32: Luxembourg City to Saarlouis

Today was a perfect day for bike touring. The weather forecast looked great, the route interesting, and we were raring to go after an early breakfast.

Leaving our accommodation opposite the airport was a bit hairy, but after 2-3 km it settled down to villages and rural roads.

There were a couple of climbs, with roadworks stopping me a few hundred metres from the top (red light).

We were heading back towards the Moselle valley and the border with Germany.

Near the top of one of the climbs
I find the wheat fields quite mesmerising
Shadows along country laneways
Open fields, more wheat
Narrow stone bridges

Ahead of us is a very steep, descent. The greenery is the area around the Moselle, at the bottom of the hill. The other side, Germany.

Grapevines, still in Luxembourg

It is a very steep, controlled descent, riding the brakes hard.

Next thing, the Moselle River.

We rode the German side for the 12 -15 km or so we are about to do on the Luxembourg side.

Looking up at our final few Luxembourg vineyards.

The guy on the left operates a pedal boat fishing. We have seen a few of these on the river.

Some vineyards house fancy buildings. Bernard Massard is Luxembourg’s largest producer of sparkling wine.

Cute statue.

Bye Luxembourg and we’re back in Germany.

Just around the corner, German Police sat in a car. Must get boring.

Longer river view.

At the town on Konz, the river Saar enters. We bid the Moselle farewell, again, and start to follow the Saar, heading upstream.

It’s a super pretty river, much smaller than the Moselle, lots more greenery, quieter, less cycle traffic.

The ruins of the 10th century Saarburg castle. It fell into ruins in the 1800’s but the town has since renovated part. You can walk from town to obtain valley view.

Saarburg is a nice looking town, fairly busy with a few tourist buses in.

A small video Tony took here.

The water is not as green as it looks here, but the vegetation is thick and lush.

Despite being a longer ride day, we have made excellent progress. We decide to pull into the town of Mettlach to see what food we might find.

An impressive little town, with lots of references to Villeroy and Boch.

Turns out this old benadictine monastery has been their centre since the 1800’s. Outlet store and a museum all dedicated to V&B enthusiasts and collectors.

Imposing over the river.

My favourite section of the river ride was from Mettlach. It followed a loop and there were no cars, just a walking and cycle trail, along gravel.

Super peaceful and chillaxing.

The river Saar, so far, rates very highly and is ‘better’ than the Moselle.

We sat here and chilled more.

I ‘think’ this is a carving of someone on a bike.

We’re in Saarlouis now. A former medieval town that appears very modern.

The Yaxley flag is flying on the 3rd floor.

The oldest looking structure we could see in town when we went on our food hunt.

Our route map. Three countries evident.

More detail Strava : The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

112 km and just a beaut day.

Tomorrow we follow the river Saar further, and enter France.

Thanks for reading.

Day 10: Duisburb to Dieren

A glorious morning riverside Rhine. First to breakfast so we chose to sit outside, as it was warm already.

The last German breakfast for a few weeks as today we will cross the border into The Netherlands.

Sleepy Sunday morning, was very quiet, with minimal traffic on the roads and paths. That would change later in the day with the most incredible amount of ebike traffic we have ever experienced.

The air quality was awful. Very smoggy. You can hardly see the nuclear power plant funnel ahead. I make sure I take my ventolin regularly. I am an exercised induced asthmatic. However things like pollutants, pollens and cigarette smoke aggravate it.

I liked the church and statue. One person here getting ready.

Quiet roundabouts.

A quiet village.

Excellent signage. We had started just outside central Duisburg.

Ooh other cyclists. Many of the paths today ran along the top of flood barriers, or through farmlands.

We weaved near the river at times, lots of turns today. Left, right, left, right and so on.

Our bike computer makes such navigation easy.

We stopped at a riverside cafe that was open. Being Sunday we were surprised it was open. A popular river crossing place for the e-bikes. There were hundreds congregated here.

At the cafe, the lady a bit less tolerant at my pronunciation of Potte Kakao…..I then stood by the board with my finger against it after my multiple verbal attempts. She rolled her eyes and asked other customers….then she laughed. The customers didn’t and I thanked them. Danke and a smile goes a long way.

We detoured into the village of Xanten as it looked interesting,

Nice church and arches.

Town square.

Cleves gate, dates from 1393, the sole survivor to Xanten’s original five city gates. The upper section had to be replaced after WWII damage.

It has had a varied life of uses, including a prison.

The statue nearby was nice too. Thought it looked a bit like QEII on the left.

As we followed the old wall out of town to return to our route, our first windmill.

A violet lady outside the violet house.

We skirted around two connected lakes. Xantener Sud See and Xantener Nord See.

The dirt tracks had lots of walkers and cyclists. There was a variety of water uses including these swans.

The second lake.

Back riding along the river levee, sheep grazing with plentiful food to eat.

A distant church across nice green farmland.

Farmland to the right, with the Rhine still in sight.

Quirky.

Those barges keep ploughing up and down the river.

A cute deer farm.

Then a roadblock. This was one of those non negotiable types. We do consider how we can get through, but in this case, the pathway was totally ripped up.

We needed to backtrack and detour, adding 4 km to our day.

I liked this one. I feel like that at times.

We stopped in a bus shelter to snack and drink. Shops were closed and I was close to door knocking for water. As I sat there, I spied something up the road and wondered.

Sure enough, our first German vending machine.

We had many attempts to acquire product. We failed. A Dutch couple pulled up in their car, they had many attempts then figured it out.

Soon we had three bottles of nice cold liquid and two snacks we just thought we’d try.

Yes, it had vapes too 🙈
The stroopwaffle was nicest.

Then the headwinds arrived, a few km before this sign.

Here we are.

The road ahead.

A pretty river. Two boats on the left moored and having a picnic.

And another one.

Unusual cycling traffic. Wide berth ebike.

Lots of bikes at church.

Cycling infrastructure is incredible. There are amazing cycle paths and intersections of high quality. Many people, of all ages, cycle.

Cafe open but we push on. A little further on there was a super busy street and we ended up getting off to push our bikes. There were some very ordinary people weaving all over the show. I did suggest to one man that perhaps he could steer straight and not ride like a drunk man. His wife had already shouted at him multiple times to no avail.

Cute streets.

The town of our destination.

We are staying out of town in an adventure cabin style resort adjacent to the Veluwezoom National Park.

They have an escape room that we won’t be using ha ha.

We have a timber cabin and a great spot for the bikes first decent clean up, oiling chains, more air pressure.

The bikes slept inside with us too.

The restaurant was not open so we sufficed on a panini after 111 km. Looking forward to breakfast.

The weather continues to be amazing and I’m looking forward to the next few days as the cycling looks excellent here.

After 10 days we’ve now ridden 980 km. That’s a solid average per day regardless of flatter inclines.

Thanks for reading 😁🚴❣️

Day 9: Cologne to Duisburg

We were first to breakfast, again! In fact, no one else turned up whilst we ate. Sleep in Saturday in Germany it seems.

Not much happening outside either. You can just spot a man near the cathedral working on his chalk drawing.

We slid out of Cologne far more easier than we entered.

Nice forested paths providing some coolness to what was going to be another hot day.

We crossed a bridge around a port area, a side canal off the main river, stopping to watch this boat full of shredded used metal.

Bow thrusters pushed it in closer to shore, but it seems the river is quite shallow given the amount of mud being churned up.

We have seen numerous of these scrap metal boats today.

Nice church beside our river path.

Peaceful vistas across farmland to another village.

We stopped for a breather outside this closed pub, enjoying sitting in the shade.

Another flood marker. This pub will have suffered numerous inundations it seems.

Today we were on a lot of roads, as the path either does not go down on the flood plains, or there are alternative uses such as industry preventing river access.

In this village, we liked this statue.

Back in the open space we enjoy and prefer. One lonely poppy.

We rode smack bang through the middle of Düsseldorf. Not the nicer old town part, but the modern.

We did not enjoy our Düsseldorf traverse. It was slow, continually punctuated by red lights. Thankfully being Saturday there was less vehicular movements. However, there were cyclists and walkers out and about.

One of the bridges we crossed in Düsseldorf.

Another cute statue.

On the outskirts of Düsseldorf we pulled into a beer garden, seeking liquid and a toilet stop. As toilets are not plentiful again today, we become a customer and use their clean facilities.

Sitting outside we noted this barge transporting new tractors.

There is a constant stream of boats.

This is better. Peaceful.

I’m not sure what kind of trees these are, but we have seen many. They are cut back heavily and are reshooting. Bikes everywhere again today.

So many people ride here. All ages. Electric bikes are very popular.

Roundabout of the day, a global feature.

More open parklands as we approach Duisburg, our overnight stop.

A fairly industrial area, but some decent options overnight.

We are in a 14 story hotel. We have a balcony and given it is still 28C our washing drying beautifully.

Something new for us here in our bathroom. Adjacent to the toilet is this bar code capture. I clicked it and it is an interesting site with many different magazines and newspapers from around the globe.

We opted for an early dinner here at 5 pm and it was a superb meal. We sat outside on the terrace where it was still very warm.

80 km today. Tomorrow, is a longer day and we will end up in The Netherlands as we cross the border in the latter part of the day.

We are ready for bed.

Day 8: Koblenz to Cologne

A tasty breakfast and the promise of a warm day ahead.

This is the view as we woke, looking out from our balcony overlooking the Rhine River. The sun was riding behind the palace.

We fiddle farted our way out from Koblenz via the river path, inland laneways, a bridge, a caravan park, before finally settling into the route to Cologne.

The first part of the ride was not as scenic as the Moselle had been, primarily as we needed to skirt around many industrial sites.

Eventually cute villages returned.

We liked this statue outside a hotel.

Looking up the Rhine as the day heated up.

Chilling here and there. This seat was surprisingly very comfortable.

There are numerous river barges transporting cars, walkers, cyclists across the river.

We saw lots of castles on the far side.

Some nice distant rural vistas.

Statues of horses on a boat.

Fortifications and churches.

We spotted these castles high in the hill.

A closer view.

The large German city of Bonn was on our route today. You’d hardly have known as there was not a prominent riverside feature and we passed through as if the very outskirts of a small village.

We turned off to head to a supermarket to grab some lunch supplies, predominantly cold fluid as the temperatures were now in the high 20’s and we were sweating.

I made a new friend. Pooch was there when we arrived, and still there when we left which did concern us.

We failed to note the inappropriate writing in the wall at the time of taking the photo. Should have been in German too!

Riding through this forest for many km gave us cooling relief.

The locals were feeling the heat too. I have wondered just how clean the water is this far up the river.

The sand seemed quite nice. Not sure if it is ‘natural’ or a local council initiative.

Closing in on Cologne. You can just see the spires from the famous cathedral. Our hotel is very close to the Dom.

The last few km flowed well in a busy city of 1.1 million people. Good bike lane and road crossings.

The hardest part was the last km through hoardes of tourists taking up all available space.

There were a series of zig zags up a hill towards the Dom and I nearly gave up in frustration. Tight left hand and right hand bends and the tourists stood there just watching….not moving, just watching.

Got to our hotel, high fived, checked in, secured the bicycles safely.

Arriving in our room, there was a parcel with my name on it. Opened it up …a jersey from a local club, Tony’s favourite snacks. All famous German items.

Wow, later found a message from Marcus a local Zwifter who thought we had arrived last night and turned up at 8 am today to ride with us. Aaagh, wires crossed and we felt super bad.

He sent me a photo of his nice Trek bike outside the hotel. Marcus is a faster rider than us!

We then headed over to the cathedral, just 100 m away, and visible from our bedroom.

The photo does not do justice to the sheer size of this cathedral.

An aerial photograph showing the sheer size.

Source: Traces of Art, Architecture, places and Archaeology

The site on which the cathedral now stands was once part of the Roman city.

The first church was built around the 6th century.

The cathedral is the most visited monument in Germany, and is free to enter.

Unfortunately for us, timing was an issue as when we arrived they were preparing for Mass, thereby limiting access to the church.

The church is 157 metres tall, and is the tallest twin towered church in the world.

Construction of the current church began in 1248 and continued until around 1560. Work did not recommence until the mid 1800s. The church was completed to the the original plans in 1880.

A few photos from our position near the cathedral rear.

After another Italian dinner, we were hunting for icecream as it was still 26c.

We went past the old Rathaus. At the rear there are extensive renovations under way and only this older section visible.

The tower was completed in 1414.

I need one of these signs. We saw this at the entrance to a local pub.

Back outside our hotel, there is this interesting fountain. Heinzelmannchenb is an ornate 19th century fountain commemorating a local legend about house gnomes!

Looking more closely at our hotel, you can pick our room! The Yaxley flag is flying.

We’ve stayed in lots of different overnight rooms during all of our cycle tours. I cannot recall any with this kind of ‘art’. There is also a Fruh shop at reception.

A bit more research revealed this is the local brew, with a long history here in Cologne. The original brewery can be seen two doors down in the photo two above.

So here we are. Day 8 and another 105 km, bringing our total to 797 km.

Hopefully we can get some sleep. It is super noisy outside still with activities and restaurants around the cathedral.

A solid day, lots of sights and water consumed. People often think that because we are Australian we are used to the heat. Aussie yes, but Tasmanians which is the coolest state….in so many ways.

❣️❣️❣️

Day 7: Trarbach to Koblenz

Today we completed our ride from the source of the Moselle near Col du Bussang in France, to Koblenz in Germany.

It started with a trickle, and ended up a long, large river, 545 km in length.

The day started off warm, a word I’ve not used yet this trip.

We could see blue sky and the criss cross of the many aircraft overhead.

There were cute villages.

There were vineyards to traverse.

Roads and roundabouts.

Our route even took us up over Moselle villages.

More roundabouts with interesting sculptures.

Churches.

Long stretches of cycle path.

More villages, with castles higher in the hills.

Fancier castles. this is in Cocham. It is the largest castle on the Moselle. Historic artefacts dates a castle on this location back to around 1000 AD. The castle as seen today has been heavily restored, in the late 1800’s.

This pole pays respects to the many medieval craftsmen of the region.

Looking towards Cochem, a busy tourist hub. Multiple tourist canal boats, everyone else on an e-bike.

Interesting buildings.

Toilets have provided some issues along the river. For Tony it is easier, he just heads bush.

More castles and villages.

About 12 km short of Koblenz we were sweating. The temperature was in the high 20s and we wanted something cold. We found a kiosk but they only took cash, so we wandered over the road to the local pub.

We sat under a large umbrella, in a soft chair, and enjoyed a super cold bottle of carbonated water.

The flood levels from the Moselle are marked on the wall. Christmas 1993 would have been awful for the region.

Koblenz, our overnight destination is a larger city with lots of traffic. Interesting buildings but you can’t really appreciate them as you concentrate on what the traffic is doing, safety first.

I’d mucked up navigation with us arriving at a street with similar spelling, but …not it. So we wound our way down to the Rhine river, going the wrong way down a one way street, but on the footpath. Slow crawl but we got to the right hotel.

Annoyed with myself after 105 km, but hey, what’s 106 km!

After showering and laundering, with our washing drying on a sunny balcony with views directly to the river, we headed off to eat.

We found an Italian joint next door, demolished our main course and went walking.

A side view of St Castor cathedral, the oldest church in Koblenz, with the first church built in the 800’s, this one circa 1200’s.

The bells were pealing as we walked past and thought we’d pop in on the way back. Mistake as it was closed on our return.

Deutschen Ek, or German corner as otherwise known, is where the two mighty rivers meet.

Aside from that it is hard to miss given this massive statue.

The original statue of William 1, the first German Emperor was dismantled by the French military after WWII, leaving only the plinth.

Following German reunification a replica was erected on the original plinth.

These three thick slabs of cement are original sections of the Berlin Wall. There are a series of visual panels telling the story of the fight for reunification. Very sad stories.

Across the Rhine Ehrenbreitstein Fortress dominates. This current structure was built in the 1800s, but many earlier versions were constructed. It has never been attacked, and has served many purposes over the years.

There is a cable car from near our hotel across the Rhine that we took.

Looking across the two rivers. The Moselle to the right and back, Rhine to the left.

Looking to the right and the Rhine, where we head off tomorrow.

It is an interesting fortification, partly museum, partly ruins, partly current function centre and concert venues.

Have to finish today with this giant thumb. probably the ugliest thumb ever, placed in a random position. But thumbs up, another great day, 106 km ridden, to a total now of 692 for our first week.

Thanks for reading ❣️🚴😊

Day 6: Trier to Trarbach

We smashed breakfast. The stern Egyptian walked through multiple times smiling at no one. Just get his coffee cup filled up. Coffee did not improve his disposition.

We ensured we had plenty of snacks for the day too from the breakfast bar!

Leaving I threw my rain jacket on, as it was spitting, but also warmer than the trip so far. I had bare legs for the first time!

Retracing our steps back to the bridge crossing over the Moselle River, passed by four tourist buses next to one Vikings boat. They sure fit a lot of people on those boats.

Standing on the bridge, looking towards where we were heading, following the path on the far side.

Today we rode through many villages. Weaving our way through narrow lanes. We fancied this sign.

The aggro cyclist, well dressed lady, dog relieving itself.

In Pfazel there is an old Roman fortified palace, or sections thereof.

Remnants of the old moat

Interesting statue crossing the river.

Do you fancy some chemicals in your wine? A very imprecise science watching the helicopter dumping its chemical load, on the far side of the river, particularly given it was windy.

We stopped to stretch here, admiring the calmness of the river. Vineyards both sides of the river, interspersed by villages.

Tony

A local school project. These plots were planted by local students, whose names were on the sign on the left. Each had a little insect box.

Francis of Assisi overlooking his vineyards and rubbish bin.

So many lovely villages.

Interspersed with lovely vistas such as this. We were heading in this direction through the forested area.

Village church

This section of path winds its way through a vineyard. You can see they make the most of space, regardless of the slope.

A closer view of the sundial?

This narrow machine fitted in between the rows of grapes and cut the grass.

That is Tony ahead. I stopped here as it was a magic spot, little church to the left, wooded hills in the far side, grapes growing to the right.

The next village with narrow lanes.

Lots of places have wine presses outside.

Local hangout.

Villages and vineyards

Another large tourist canal cruising boat. Lots of cyclists on the path around here, similar set up with front light, ebike, one pannier. We could see areas where they were returning their bikes dockside.
Ruins of Rosenburg, built around 1195.

The castle high in the hill above Bernkastel.

The Romans built a large fort high on the hill. The aim was to protect the valley from barbarians. under Frankish conquerors the fortress became a castle. It was then besieged, conquered and rebuilt.

I’ve taken this aerial photo from a Mosel tourism site as it highlights above the valley showing where we had ridden earlier. We followed the left bank here.

More villages and vineyards.

Multiple options for eating or drinking. We chose a small cafe and I ordered two hot chocolates. 10 euro cash only. I had 9.85 euro cash and nope, no 15 cent discounts. So I ordered one.

A small overnight cabin

We rounded the final river bend and see our overnight destination Traben-Trarbach. Two towns, either side of the Moselle joined by one big old bridge.

We had planned to walk back into town after settling in but then it poured with rain and we decided to chill. then the sun came out but we still chilled.

Super friendly staff here, nice and welcoming, great room, good bike storage, great dinner.

Clothes drying. Socks, bra are drying on the heated towel rack in the bathroom. Everything was dry within a few hours.

Just before bed, I stuck my head out the window and that is the river lower left. Lovely coloured forest above the river.

Tomorrow night we will be at the confluence of the Moselle and Rhine having travelled its entire length.

Today was 94 km, and we have now ridden 579 km in 6 days since leaving Ben’s place in Switzerland.

Another super chilled riding day along beautiful pathways and villages.

Day 5: Metz to Trier

We were first to breakfast at 6.30 am. We certainly left well fed, and started riding by 7.40 am.

We covered 116 km today, and a three country day. A spattering of rain forecast but nothing too ominous.

The first part was following the river through a variety of land uses including heavy industry. Hard to avoid industry and today there was a variety.

Calm path

These 3d cutouts warning people to slow down were very cleverly done. The detail and depth was incredible.

Farm land

Here are a few industrial examples. Here we have a canal barge docked, and we think it is coal being removed.

A nuclear power plant pumping steam out.

An area of another WWII battle.

The scenery started to improve as the day went on and we closed in on the Luxembourg and German border.

Luxembourg arrived without any fanfare. We were unaware we’d crossed the border until we arrived at Schengen, Luxembourg.

Schengen is where the agreement, of the same name was signed in 1985. The agreement abolished internal European border controls.

The agreement was signed on a boat in the river at the point if the three country borders.

There is a museum there now, plus all the Schengen flags riverside. People were having photos taken next to their country flag.

Sitting riverside in Schengen

We crossed the river, into Germany, to grab lunch supplies at a supermarket. Our favourite, a fresh long roll with banana in it. The German rolls were a bit different and the ones bought had salt and pepper garnish…not that I realised that when selecting.

Choice of countries

We followed the cycle path on the German side, giving us lovely views across to Luxembourg. All their houses are very schmick and smart.

On both sides of the river, there are numerous vineyards.

Germany
Germany
Luxembourg

An EU sign near a bridge crossing back over to Luxembourg.

We were really enjoying the riding and views.

Happiness is the name of this industrial barge, seems more like a ‘demon’ or ‘Atilla’.

Closing in on Trier.

We arrive, shortly before check in at the Holiday Inn.

A bit of a problem with the Egyptian male on reception who had no smile or friendly greeting.

He then insisted we have two rooms booked, despite only one showing on my Hotel.com app.

To say I was unhappy was an understatement. I was forced to pay an additional 99 euro ($161 aud).

The guy was misogynistic in his comments and was derogatory presuming based on my age and female we must also have a car and ebike as I could not ride that far.

Wtf!

Then he says ‘ you are getting agitated’. You think?

Not a person with any diplomacy or front desk skills.

Anyhow I paid the additional amount, and will take it up when we get home and boy are we going to raid breakfast in the morning!

After enjoying an extra long hot shower, we walked into the older part of town.

Trier was founded by the Romans in the late 1st century AD. As such, it is considered to be Germany’s oldest city.

Kirche St Martin circa 1911
Porta Nigra

The Porta Nigra was built 170 AD by the Romans. The darker colour is due to pollution mainly from car fumes. Cars are now barred from driving through the gate.

The Haupt Markt area is very nice, with lovely Middle Age buildings, somewhat spoiled with modern signage.

Trier cathedral is the oldest in Germany. The central nave is built from Roman brick in the 4th century.

When we entered the organ was being played. Twice in a row now as we’ve entered. The organ is very high up, and I presume the organist was ‘up there somewhere’ as I could not find the player!

Few other photos. We also wandered around the cloisters outside.

We had a really nice meal at a Japanese/Vietnamese restaurant. Best meal in nights!

A lot of km today. We have now ridden 485 km in our first five days.

We have five nights in Germany, in this section of trip.

Tony is excited as the supermarkets have a wonderful range of Harbro sweets he carries for fuel and Ritter peppermint chocolate for 99c ( about $1.60).

That’s it, I need some shut eye.

Thanks for reading 😊🚴❣️

Day 1: Stein to Thann

So it begins…

We woke to an overcast day. Rain was forecast but at lighter levels.

We enjoyed a slower start, talking to Ben and Sharon then it was time. Here we are, ready to hop onto our bikes and get on our way to start our 3,300 km odyssey.

Today was a three country day. The first 15 km was in Switzerland, crossing to Germany at one of our favourite villages, Rheinfelden.

We had our rain jackets on as the rain was pouring down steadily.

Old gate into town
Very damp street
River between two houses
Crossing the bridge to Germany
On the German side, looking back to Switzerland

We took shelter in a pedestrian tunnel on the German side, popping our rain booties on over our cycle shoes. It is a hard thing to do, and if you listened to our huffing, puffing and grunting I’m sure you’d laugh. They fit super tight, helps to keep the water out and keep the feet warmer.

Temperatures were cool. It was 6 C when we left and only reached 8 C by Thann in the sun.

We rode 13 km in Germany, heading back into Switzerland near Basel.

Basel is Switzerland’s third largest city, and considered the cultural capital of Switzerland with over forty museums. Well known as a centre for the pharmaceutical industry with both Roche and Novartis having large hubs.

My son Ben works for Roche in Basel.

We have visited central Basel numerous times and can recommend it.

It is a beautiful city, with a magnificent cathedral, and the lovely adjacent Rhine waterway.

Basel Cathedral
Basel as we cross the bridge
Crossing the Rhine
Statue on the bridge
Looking across to the northern side, Roche twin buildings to the right. These buildings are Switzerlands tallest.

We followed the Rhine for a few more km, before turning to the west at Huningue, and now we are in France.

We followed the path along the petite carmargue, essentially a small water canal, lots of vegetation, theoretically attracting wildlife. None to be seen today.

We spent about 25 km travelling through forest tracks such as the one below. Easy riding, very straight, with occasional busy roads to stop at.

Nice to utilise these trails as we can relax and feel quite safe. The only other users were cyclists but the forest also has many walking trails.

We did get peckish and food options were zip. We had a few little items courtesy of Qantas and Emirates that we devoured.

Foret de la Harde
Where we stopped to snack, having just crossed the main road.

We have ridden past this tank in 2022 as we headed across France to the Loire Valley. It forms part of the local WWII remembrances in the area.

This tank is on the southern side.

Riding in France you see many crosses and remembrances for WWII. Most towns and villages have at least one.

The war memorial.

We reached the town of Ensisheim just after 1 pm. Many shops were closed for siesta. Fortunately we found a small boulangerie open with just two ham rolls left. We enjoyed them!

In 1492 a 127 kg meteorite fell near the village, portions of which can be viewed at the local museum.

Aside from that fact, it’s a pretty little town.

An interesting graphic story involving Christopher Columbus. Being nowhere near Spain or the Americas unsure how it relates to the inland village we were in.
Local village church

Back on the road, we only had 20 km left to ride. That pleased me as I am still feeling a bit jet lagged.

The picture below is very typical of what we see on the pathways that bypass villages. There are agricultural fields and the ubiquitous church spire dominating the small village.

On the other side of the path, the Vosges Mountains are covered by rain clouds. We’ve had no heavier rain since Switzerland and hoping to make it to Thann dry.

100 km ridden, saw us arrive at our hotel. A bunch of cyclists were cleaning their nice road bikes out the back. They also have vehicles, indicating most are from Belgium.

We store the bikes in a large shed with the Belgian’s shiny bikes. They are not overly friendly, unusual for cyclists in this situation.

After showering and laundering we headed off on foot to check out town.

Thann is situated at the foot of the Vosges Mountains, with the river Thur running through the town.

The obvious starting point was this lovely church.

It is known as the Collegiate Church of Thann, built over a period of two centuries

Pilgrims came due to a relic of Saint Thiebaut, renowned as a miracle worker. After his death in 1160, a local bishop stopped in the valley, lighting three fires. The staff containing the relic remained stuck in the ground.

The Count of Ferrette freed the staff and built the chapel dedicated to Saint Thiebaut.

That chapel remains as the oldest section of the church we visited today.

Beautiful Gothic vaulting
The great west portal.

There are some lovely buildings in Thann.

A very narrow structure.

We were hungry and found a little boulangerie open, enjoying our morning tea albeit many hours later.

We had dinner at the hotel, albeit late for us at 7 pm. We opted for a set three course menu and ended up overly full.

There were 18 cyclists at the next table, still not friendly.

We will sleep well tonight. 100 km today and we are still feeling jet lagged. I think it will be early to bed.

Today’s route and elevation.

Thanks for reading 😊🚴❣️

Will we, wont we?

Subject to continuing calm in the Middle East, this is our 2026 bike touring plan covering 3,300 km, 6 countries in 35 days.

Are we excited? Not yet, as it was only a week ago that we realised this trip might just happen – in the few months before, we had resigned ourselves to cancelling. We will cancel if missiles start falling again though.

I think once we are an hour out of Dubai heading to Zurich, then we will start to feel it.

It is very bittersweet for us, as we both harbor tremendous guilt with Khaleesi for that period of time, despite knowing she is well cared for, it is just not the same as what she gets at home – going to sleep on our bed for starters!

We start and finish in Switzerland at my son’s house in Stein. We will follow the Rhine River riding through three countries on day one.

Heading to the Vosges villages – I did a day trip through numerous in 2019 on a solo ride. Fairytale villages set amongst vineyards and mountains. Beautiful region of France that was once part of Germany.

http://www.blog.toploc.com

We start at the mouth of the Moselle and follow the River for many days.

http://www.recess4grownups.com

Arriving in Koblenz, the Moselle joins the Rhine River.

We then follow the Rhine River again up into Cologne, where I would like to visit the Cologne Cathedral.

http://www.artandtheology.org

We need to navigate some industrial areas in this region, heading into the Netherlands through Zwolle and to the very north coast.

On the northern coastline, the Lauwersmeer National Park is home to over 100 species of birds, that breed in its water, forests and grasslands, and we are riding through the Park.

http://www.globalnationalparks.com

Following the coast we will take a ferry ride across to Ameland Island, one of the West Frisian Islands off the north coast. It consists mostly of sand dunes and is one of the inhabited Dutch Wadden islands, forming a border between the North Sea and the Wadden Sea.

We have two nights there to explore the island that has four villages. There used to be six villages but two were flooded and now lie in the sea!.

http://www.commons.wikimedia.org

Back on the ferry to mainland Europe and we wind our way down towards Amsterdam, spending two nights in Voldendam, a picturesque fishing village, close to Edam and within cycling distance of central Amsterdam.

http://www.holland.com

We will spend a day cycling through sections of Amsterdam, likely getting a bit confused and lost with all the canals and bikes and sights. There are lots of bikes in Amsterdam it seems.

Then we head south to Delft for two nights, located between Rotterdam and The Hague. We will do a day ride through the two larger cities.

http://www.kayak.co.uk

Next country is Belgium where we have two nights in Bruges which looks super pretty. I get to celebrate my 64th birthday on the second day here.

http://www.travelkiwis.com

Heading further inland to Ghent we plan to catch up with a famous Zwifter, Fran Bambust. She has already booked the restaurant. Ghent is another nice looking city.

http://www.wanderlustphotosblog.com

Heading south through Roubaix, and yes a visit to that famous stadium where the famous race finishes, we end up in Lille, northern France for two nights.

http://www.app.dailyn.app

We do a day ride to Armentieres, to visit the site of my great uncle’s burial site from WW1 at Cite Bonjean Military Cemetery.

The cemetery contains 2,132 Commonwealth burials including 470 Australians. He was the younger brother of my grandma, Nellie Saward.

I look forward to this pilgrimage to pay homage for his ultimate sacrifice for his country.

http://www.ww1cemetries.com

Spending a few days in southern Belgium in towns including Mons, Namur and Teuven we head back into Germany to Aachen.

Another impressive cathedral that we will surely have a look at.

http://www.flickriver.com

Aachen is the start of the Vennbahn, one of Europe’s longest cycle paths on a disused railway track. It heads through East Belgium into Luxembourg.

After two days we will end up in Luxembourg city, with a detour to Andy Schleck’s cycle shop – which will be closed being a Sunday so we will peer through the windows. I did have a local Zwifter offer to introduce us to Andy which was amazing, but I felt Andy would surely have better things to do!!

Then it is back into Germany, following the Saar River, through more Vosge villages and Colmar heading back into Switzerland.

A comprehensive route, with a lot more detail than I could possibly put here – more a teaser.

So, let’s hope the Middle East stays quiet, as we are routed via Dubai to Zurich. We did look at rerouting but it was an additional $7,000 on top of what we had already paid.

I have ridden 33,036 km outside of Australia now, with New Zealand sitting on 6,749 km and France in second spot on 6,565 km. France will take the lead after this trip, so I do hear New Zealand calling again!

Please join us vicariously as we continue our annual 3,000 km plus holidays, whilst we still can!!

Let peace reign.