What not to do!

81411550-5465-47C0-8C44-4CFF1FF09B44
A wet start

My body is out of whack! I awoke at 4 am again! I wandered out to the lounge room and looked out the windows to see what was happening in the streets. All quiet but I did see a bloke sleeping across the road outside the closed pub. Sad that he has nowhere to go.

Thankful that I did have a bed, I tried to sleep again and blow me down, it was 8.10 am before I knew it! We had wanted to be on the road by 8 am. Dang! So the first lesson is we are setting our alarm for 7 am tomorrow.

Walking out the front door on the ground floor I somehow managed to walk straight into a bollard, corking my thigh! I felt that all day with each push of my right leg. So the second lesson is, look out for bollards that came at you from nowhere!

The weather was rainy so we started off with rain jackets and headed slowly down Rue de Victor Hugo in slow traffic.

We needed to cross the Garonne on one of the bridges but wow they were busy so we walked our bikes around trying to figure out the best/safest plan of attack. It was hairy and slow going, needing to backtrack and walk our bikes over numerous roads before identifying the correct route

We were on the look out for the cycle track as we had planned to ride this particular path to Creon. Ah, the heavy machinery had dug it up and it was blocked by bollards! Note to self, be careful near bollards!

Finally we found this.

033B7878-9CB4-4F0E-97DD-E5826202E459
Not a bad sign for the garage!
5E8E112B-F08F-408F-81AD-8033EEDB99D9
Finally found what we were looking for.
D1B73E05-62B1-4205-8C55-616524D7D456
A section of the track
B2BA73C6-9826-47A5-9B39-E23FB3255823
An old railway station provided temporary relief from the rain.

Great cycle path on a disused railway line, with a number of intersecting roads but nowhere near as frequent as yesterday. Arrived in Creon to discover their market was in full swing.

C1DF2221-F1FE-4823-AB13-50E006AEE8DE
Sampled some very nice cheese at this stall.
342EECE4-DD41-4F94-8053-B3AEAF05E48B
Took a raincheck on the prunes!
D2BC7D8B-6628-477B-B869-8BD912E667A7
But ate this! Yummy!

After Creon we continued on the bike track and entered an amazing rail tunnel. It was pitch black upon approach and you could not see ‘the light at the end of the tunnel!’ However upon entering the lights came on. The tunnel would be some 100 plus metres.36DBDE31-FB52-4EDC-883B-3597B15D694B07D3F5AE-3C81-4D78-A7A8-1AD78DADFA1C

We had decided to aim for coffee at Castillon-la-Bataille named after the decisive battle fought between the French and English in 1453. The French won marking the end of the Hundred Year’s War.

The town is also on the banks of the Dordogne, last visited when we rode from Calais to Carcassonne. That was a memorable day as we completed a TDF climb Puy Marie.

7483BC55-A8EA-4C68-9854-0B4705CA6082

65F46C9F-C711-4677-BCCE-0661A670D05A
La Dordogne looking towards the battle fields
063A3ED1-7B6E-4A6E-BBB7-A1C0E204A8F2
As you do!

Upon leaving the town, we entered a climb that has had TDF activity, judging from the names painted on road. The most frequent names were Bardet, Barguil and Roche. I saw one Froome! I am not normally fussed with Strava cups but was quite pleased to score one on this climb as I lifted my pace out of touring mode, motivated by the signs! I think from memory it was a 1.4 km km climb at a tad under 5%.

We weaved up and down and around a number of villages and vineyards of Saint-Emilion. A very scenic area.

62A57931-11EB-4CA6-BF2D-372599CF2FF5
Pretty as a picture

A few km out from the town of Saint-Emilion a hirsute young fellow came flying past me on a really crappy looking bike! So I decided to get out of touring mode pace once more and have some fun trying to draft off him ( as we had been riding into headwinds for some distance now).

7DC7B899-3896-46C4-85BD-B699026A9F71
I half expected him to utter that universally understood word telling to ‘go away’, but no! Look at my leg muscles! Getting stronger!! Ha ha

After a few km the hairy guy turned left and we needed to turn right. Within a km or so we came across a motor vehicle accident. This is the next lesson of how not to drive in France!

856587A1-9800-40B7-8909-6FB760B69C25
Not sure how the driver managed that one!

As we entered Saint-Emilion it started to pour with rain. As we climbed up the road to the older village section the surface changed to cobblestones. Now I find them a bit tricky at the best of times, let alone climbing a steep, but short section wet and slippery packed with aimlessly wandering tourists. I felt like shouting ‘ move your arse!’ as I weaved around them still climbing.

In the 8th century a hermitage was set up by Emilion, a monk from Brittany on the northern slopes of the Dordogne Valley.  Fortifications began in the 12th century. Today the place is a tourist Mecca, with very interesting architectural heritage surrounded by a plethora of picturesque chateau’s and wineries.

Once at the top we rested at a bus stop waiting for the rain to ease. The following are views from the bus stop! 84177B7A-CD0A-4BD3-BE2A-4190571A6E659C37176E-D69C-4B4D-98E2-1259788D54B21BB88A1D-0F42-4576-A7B6-85E5C0533737CF7E4C39-94B2-40F5-9F4E-00D4AE70BBBB992B6FBE-06DF-428C-A452-52FDE482FA89

Heading out of Saint-Emilion we headed to Libourne, a very busy town with crazy traffic. We crossed Le Dordogne again.

AC23154D-6982-4DCC-9A6E-CCDC37E6BAB2
The French have lots of flowers on bridges. It continues to fascinate me as I appreciate the vivid colours.

To avoid the really heavy traffic we deviated 11 km back towards Creon to rejoin the bike track in safety.

We ended up back by the Garonne.

27EE21AE-A99A-4FE5-AF9D-D5A1582DCB2E
Fishing huts on the Garonne

So before I finish up I need to come back to my title, what not to do. I have two more.

Crossing the Garonne I could hear screaming from water level. I jumped off my bike and was astounded with what I saw. Look carefully at the next photo and you will see that there is a steel cable to the left hand side of the small boat. It would appear the boat has been caught up in the very strong current and is effectively trapped by the cable and strong current pushing it into the same cable.  The cable is one of two securing the larger work platform.

The lady kept screaming ( thankfully also putting her life jacket on) as she watched various items of their belonging enter the river.

I qualified as a rinky dinky Aussie surf lifesaver a few years back and there was no way I would jump into that water with the torrid and swirling currents. They needed a tug boat and maybe a jet ski to rescue them!

4D0C1258-BE11-46DD-9497-FD3DA18B385E
Note the cable that crosses the back left section.

As we left a car full of gendarmes arrived. Would have been interesting to watch but by  now we were both very hungry. So this is a lesson on where not to take your boat in Bordeaux!

So with only one km remaining after having ridden a total of 137 km, peak hour traffic, crazy French drivers and one crazy Tasmanian chick what could go wrong?

Well Tassie girl misjudged a car, left with an almost impossible riding gap of about 30 cm.  Not being Peter Sagan resulted in me choosing to ditch my body away from the car and onto a ledge… yes that same leg that was already caning, the one with my ‘bad knee’.

Ouch! But it could have been worse. My bike is fine and the nice young Frenchman stopped to ensure I was ok. E8E931B8-8EDA-4B93-BB57-CA6312EE299D

So what a day. 137 km done and dusted. Frustratingly slow in the cities, but ever so pleasant in the country.

IMG_1709
Today’s route
C4971DCF-6C5F-4DB3-8EBE-4D5BAE451AD9
Love this bike! 

 

Life is like a box of chocolates …

…. you ever know what you are going to get. Yes, today was one of those kind of days. Frustrating and challenging but there were some great rays of sunshine!

5F9B125E-B2EE-44C5-BC5E-F5450E34FB44
Managing to enjoy the sunshine today!

Today required great risk, riding through Bordeaux weaving in and out of cars, cyclists who weave around all over the place, wet tram tracks and that was just to ride the few km to the railway station.

After eventually extracting train tickets out of the French language only vending machine and missing our first train, we hung around for a little too long.

6A723C11-979A-4CA2-80AC-558EFC9AE0E7
This is my ” I am waiting ever so patiently NOT face”

 

Finally by 1030 we ended up in Arcachon, where the intent was to circumnavigate the Basin, catching a ferry back across the bay.

I had mapped out the route and uploaded to a Garmin GPS file, however it was having a hissy fit and kept trying to recalculate the route. So to save the Garmin from being thrown a great distance by Tony we decided to wing it. Yes in a foreign country at that.

Realistically we needed to ‘just’ keep the Basin on our left. In practice this was not quite so simple. Dead ends, one way streets in villages ensured we could not see the lake for 50 km or so.

What we did find was an extensive bike path network that intersected a road every 100-200 metres meaning stopping, starting, decleating, recleating. I reckon we did this 100-125 times today making it really hard to get into a rhythm.

B600C3DC-95E2-4E40-9A71-7E9DF91240E1
This was a quite nice section of bike path.

439920D0-B574-40D2-B2CB-E439DAD2CC32

FBE2D6B3-BCE4-480B-A076-C7919D6923C5We stopped at a boulangerie for a quick bite as they were about to close for the afternoon siesta. No coffee available. Hmm.

106BA9F0-2917-41BD-ABE2-1F29B6E91E92
This is my “it’s hard being ketogenic at French bakeries” face along with ” where am I going to get my coffee from?” face

A little further down the road I found a coffee shop and ordered deux cafe grand crema ( with a clear vision in my head of the one from yesterday!) This is what turned up!

1CA170B0-8288-4364-B62D-4DF9F760473B
Deux turned into trois! And nothing like the image in my head! But coffee is coffee.. i downed the two mini espressos. Graeme Wicks, if you are reading this, guess what happened next?

The undoubted highlight of the day’s ride was the tip of Cap-Ferret, with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Basin and Dune du Pyla  on the other. The Basin forms a huge triangle more than 100 km long.

IMG_1620
Todays 80 km ride showing the Basin.

I walked up over the sand dunes at the Cape to the Atlantic Ocean.

6382FF99-CA81-45FA-AE78-6EB8C44E5D45
Atlantic Ocean

Back at the Cap, this is the view towards the Dune du Pyla, regarded as Frances most moving monument. It is also the highest sand dune in Europe and growing at around  1-4 metres per year! Currently it is over 105 metres in height.B96E322D-7B0D-4F80-90C0-FFAB0CD8C5BC

570B44F9-C0E6-4BFC-8F74-2D57E3465265With time marching on we needed to get back to Belisaire to catch the ferry to Arachon to then catch our train back to Bordeaux. We could not help but to stop and check out the impressive lighthouse. 65CE0501-ED4D-42B1-B642-A4028B099683

We just missed the ferry and needed to wait for an hour. What to do?

2BDD84D6-E496-45EF-8557-C8310D4288E2

Oh but I did check out the oyster farm adjacent to the pier. 520D0D4C-FE52-45A3-BDD1-981ED82DEABCE3DA3805-B65A-419D-AA97-D78470CB824A

I am a big kid at heart so could not resist sharing a picture of my new steed from today. CFDEB840-F3DE-42DC-B6F3-BADEF688D5E9

So whilst the day was frustratingly slow, there were many highlights!

Interetingly there seems to be a number of blind people in Bordeaux, tapping their way around the city. I watched one poor lady try to find the road crossing with her stick, tapping all the wrong poles near the roads edge. Without thinking, I dashed across the road, grabbed her arm and took her to the crossing.

The whole way she was saying “merci”. I did talk to her the whole time as I did not want her thinking I was a bad person trying to take advantage of her, but I hoped that she did want to cross that particular road!

Tomorrow we head to St Emilion, 115 km scheduled! Hopefully we have maps tomorrow.

Are we there yet?

Long haul travelling is not fun, by anyone’s definitions.

Travelling from Devonport to Bordeaux is a long way…a seriously long way, seemingly visiting as many airport as possible en route to maximise the number of handling transfers on the previous cargo.

Oh the precious cargo is not me! I am quite ‘what will be will be’ with me when I fly, although I do have a little ‘superstitious’ routine when boarding the long haul planes..I touch the side of the plane, giving it a quick tap and rub.

The precious cargo is my bike!! Unlike me, it is 100 percent replaceable, whereas I know I am not. I am unique, one off, never to be repeated, they broke the mould when I was made, type of woman. So I know it seems a little incongruous.

Devonport airport, the young buck at the check in counter suggested possibly I would like to pay $972 AUD for ‘excess baggage’. I very politely declined, quoting terms and conditions, showing him where on the website the terms and conditions were located.

HIs final question ” so you are absolutely sure about this?” I nodded and bang the charge was wiped.  If i had been wearing my heart rate monitor it would have revealed one very fast heart beat!

Melbourne to Dubai was via Singapore and the worst part of the whole trip. Just a seriously long time. The upside was that by the time we reached Dubai I had watched a very interesting movie about the King of Norway during WW2, and 8 episodes of the historical drama on the young Queen Victoria.

IMG_1393
Leaving Dubai

Dubai to Madrid was ‘my turn’ to have a window seat, and for me, the most interesting part of the trip. It was daylight and clear and I was able to see just where we were.

Red Sea, Sinai Peninsula, Suez Canal, Nile River were all clearly visible and I was fascinated.

IMG_1404
Sinai Peninsula
IMG_1407
Here we have Egypt on the left, Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia all in one shot. It also shows Eilat ( top left lake) a southern Israeli port and resort town on the Red Sea.
IMG_1415
Suez Canal at Port Tawfiq.
IMG_1429
Nile River mouth past Rashmeed, Egypt
IMG_1438
Spain!

Arriving in Madrid was interesting. Dry and barren topography where olive trees seem to be able to grow in really dry shale

IMG_1445

After clearing passport control in Madrid you then walk for ages, catch a train to go to a different terminal to collect your luggage. Tension was high as we had another flight to go but needed to source our bikes, that often arrive well after ordinary luggage.

Heathrow airport are excellent for bikes, arriving before ordinary luggage. Madrid is the opposite, ensuring nerves are frayed to the maximum! Some 30 minutes after all other baggage had been collected the bikes turned up, appearing to be in excellent condition.

Liberian Airlines insisted that I pay an additional 130 euro for the two bikes. I negotiated that down to a total of 90 euro! They don’t do bike bags as ordinary luggage and I was not confident on that aspect, in Spanish, so pleaded for mercy instead.

So the bikes are now in Bordeaux, reformed into their complete state!

IMG_1458

No bike riding today. Need a day to recover from jet lag for safety reasons. I also have a less serious form of epilepsy that is triggered by extreme tiredness so seems like a sensible idea.

We have one week in Bordeaux, 6 nights in an Air BNB apartment opposite the Aquitaine Museum.

IMG_1461

But as I stand on the apartments little Juliet balcony and look right, just over there on Rue de Victor Hugo is that little cafe now open? I smell an espresso!! Priorities!

IMG_1460

 

 

Post Script Day 2: Chianti – 62 km, 1052m

day2tusc

We awoke to blue skies today, despite it still being 4 degrees Celsius at 9 am. The breakfast spread was impressive and after the Manager insisted on taking our photograph (as he had never met anyone who had ridden over 2000 km in 3 weeks) we walked up to the tower behind the hotel to see what the view was like.

image
One view

 

 

image
And another showing some of the remaining 13 chimneys

The manager offered to give us food to take with us (little does he know most of us do that anyway – today being no different – but it was the first time any hotel has offered that). He will get an awesome Trip Advisor review from me.

image
The narrow alley walking back to the hotel. That is our bedroom window on the top level above the narrow alley.
image
The little courtyard behind the hotel. Our bikes had been stored up in the area beyond the couple of steps and the side gates were locked from the inside.

Leaving San Gimignano we were scheduled to do a 79 km ride through the Colle di Val d’Elsa, down to Monteriggioni, then heading up towards a series of towns in Chianti.

We rode through Poggibonsi where a man cheered us on from the side of the road. He was obviously a BMC supporter as that is what he kept calling out and clapping. We laughed.  About 5 km past this point Tony said that faithful Garmin said we had 130 km to go. Hmm…that was weird so we stopped and found that he had two different Gpx files for today’s ride and they differed. We pulled up my file ( we had on both Garmins as back up is one failed) and I only had one.

Either way, we were not on the original planned route and were on an ‘alternative’ route and well off course. The good news was that I could see that we were heading in an easterly direction that should intersect with Castallina in Chianti and bring us back on course, but losing around 18 km in the process.

The downside was that this road had serious hills. There were three sections warning of 15% climbs. Not too bad with no luggage but the extra weight made them hard!

image
First warning sign

The area was nice interspersed with olive trees and vineyards.

image

 

image
San Gimignano in the very distant background

Eventually we arrived in Castellina in Chianti and had some lunch noting some of the unusual cars the crazy Italians drive.

image
This can be parked anywhere.

 

image
Funky and small.
image
Small and useful.
image
Not sure that there are side airbags in this one!
image
Nice views.
image
Sitting in the sun, even though it was only around 11 degrees by now.

After a nice break car watching, we headed off towards Radda in Chianti, my favourite for the day. Scenic, nice views, rolling hills to ride over and a great little art gallery where I made a purchase, direct from the artisan, which he is shipping back to Tassie for me. Wish I had photographed it, but he uses the curved panel from an old wooden wine barrel and attaches a miniature metal bike he hand makes, along with a couple miniature metal handcrafted Tuscan trees. It will be a nice momento.

image
The artist also does a series of bike posters.
image
2 cyclists and 1 rooster in Chianti
image
Chianti scenes
image
Another rooster, this time in a field of lavender.
image
More roosters.

We arrived in Montivarchi  disappointed to have left the beautiful Chianti countryside as Montevarchi seems a bit daggy. But we did find a few little gems including this church of San Lorenzo.

image
Nice church in the older section of Montevarchi
image
Exterior of the San Lorenzo church
image
One of the “nicer” looking homes – but I found this a bit “creepy”.

Starving hungry we could not find one restaurant. The hotel staff told us of one that opened at 730 pm!!! A few hours away. So we asked where the nearest supermarket was. I was happy to find something I like to eat.

image
Yummo!

So tomorrow is our final day riding. We head back to Florence on a scheduled 74 km ride, with over 1000m climbing for the third consecutive day.