As has been standard the last few days, we immediately encountered a climb. Today was a 19.6 km climb up to Collado de Canto at just over 1720 metres. A 19 km climb is solid with little reprieve so it is vital to have a positive mind set.
This view is in the first few kmThat is Sort! We have already climbed up a few hundred metresLooking back down the valley towards SortTony acting strong on the climb, or did he just find a new bike behind the bushes that left us both with cuts on our legs whilst admiring the valley views?
Thank goodness we were off the road admiring the valley views when around 20 Porsche cars came screaming around the bend. They were on a mission.
I can understand also why Spain has so many ace motorbike riders. I have never seen as many motorbikes as what I have experienced in the last few days. Everything from quad bikes, trail bikes and sport touring bikes.
Porsches using the road as a racing circuit. They do make a nice sound!ClimbingSome of the switchbacks we have already ridden up
Finally we are at the top after nearly 1 hours 5o minutes climbing the 19.6 km. The area is part of the Spanish National Parks.
The ubiquitous Col photo
Gilet and arm warmers back on for the descent. We did stop a few times at viewpoints such as this one in the following photos.
We descended through a number of villages including Pallerols, Avellanet, La Parroquia D’Horto and El Pla De Sant Tirs. the roads had become increasingly busy.
We had been warned about a 600 metre road tunnel we needed to pass through. There was a safer option of going behind the safety barrier and using an old road around the side of the hill. It was really pretty as it was a small carved gorge.
We rode through Organya only 4 km before our destination and whilst quite a busy town decided to knock off the final few km before seeking sustenance.
What an impressive last few km! The rock formations are simply stunning and reminded me of the rock formations viewed from Torbole on Lake Garda ( Italy).
Today’s routeToday’s elevation graph
We arrived in Coll de Nargo well ahead of the other riders and van. The village is perched precariously on a hilltop so we decided to cruise around and check the small village out.
We found this old 10th century church.
We found one place open at the top of a very steep laneway. The baker here is from Estonia. I enjoyed a very unusual dish that was predominantly spinach with a few raisins. Odd combination that tasted very nice.
Brilliant bakery.
We returned to the hotel and sat around the pool eating our lunch. After the van arrived and we checked in, showered and laundered clothes we set off on a walk to the highest point of the village.
This photo shows the road we rode in onViews from our walkIntricate stone work on top of existing bedrockNarrow laneways with houses either side
So another day done and dusted and only 3 more days riding to reach Barcelona. We have plenty more climbing in each of those days!!
We went out to tea 50 metres from our accomodation and dinner was not starting until 8.30 pm! We could not last that long for food so chose cold tapas. Exquisite food!!
I met and befriended Marco, a free spirited Italian cyclist just doing what he loves. He became our newest best friend! He was such a happy and friendly guy, with a passion for cycling and zest for life that could only make you smile!
We were provided with free shots of the local liquor. Looked like cough medicine but wow!! I brought a bottle to bring home. My first alcohol since finishing London to Venice!!
There was live music and the guy could really sing! He belted out a great rendition of Roxanne. There were little kids that looked about 5 years carting huge beers outside to their parents.
It was a great fun atmosphere and the whole village seemed to be there. As we left I gave the owner a hug as it was just great fun and they made us feel so welcome.
Elizabeth with the shot glasses. Elizabeth was born in Cork, Ireland, lived in Glasgow, Scotland and emigrated to Ottawa, Canada around 30 (?) years ago.
Today shone brightly and we had the best breakfast yet. Scrambled eggs and a great variety of protein! Yes the ubiquitous carbs were there but at least there were options today.
As soon as we left our accomodation we climbed and climbed and climbed. Already at 1300 metres we climbed to nearly 2100 metres to Port de Bonaigua. A really nice climb with great views.
Looking back towards SalarduLeaving Salardu
Early in the climbStart of the official 13 km climbSeries of switchbacks started half way upAt the top!
Very pleased to be at the top, we then donned extra clothes for the descent. We were a km or so into the descent when we had to slow down for horses that were in the road and verges. Some were even wearing cow bells.
They seemed fairly tame. This horse was quite ok with me being so close.
The descent was good fun! We got caught behind a motor home for some distance and Tony overtook it much to my horror. I chose to sit back behind, in a more conservative approach.
A section of the descent
There were great views but we did not stop a lot descending.
At La Guinguetta d’aneu there is a nice lake we passed.
We rode through Llavorsi at the 51 km point, crossing a river and following a gorge. Rafting was very popular with multiple groups on the river.
LlavorsiRafting promotional signageRafting group downstream
We arrived in Sort right on midday and checked out the main street where there was a political march occurring.
Today’s route skipping close to Andorra
Today’s elevation graph
We then headed to the hotel, well ahead of check in and the van! It was a beautiful day and look what we found!
I could not get my shoes off quick enough. The pool is not heated.
Anyway it got too much for me. I took my jersey off and….
Yes into the pool with my cycling knicks! Great way to cool off!
For tea we headed into Sort to try and find anything, anywhere before 8 pm. they really do eat late in Spain. We were with Elizabeth and Gordon and found a tapas bar where I tried cuttlefish for the first time. Very much like squid.
Today we climbed out of France and dropped into Spain. Sounds simple but it was actually quite hard work! Some cumulative tiredness along with continuing poor nutrition at breakfast and the start of a head cold and back spasms made it quite a challenge.
Lovely first km heading out from our hotel, just before the climb into Spain
The Spanish/French border is located at the top of Col Du Portillon at 1293 metres, according to the sign at the base of the climb.
The sign at the base of the climb
A series of switchbacks commence just after the 3 km point. The climb was really scenic passing through lush green woods.
Early part of the climb
The switchbacks provided some nice views. I was passed by two other cyclists from Wales on the way up and both were encouraging.
A nice stone cottage on the climb.
Just before the summit there was this magical view back over France.
Au revoir France!
As you approach the summit is this sign.
Tony waited for me just before the border. Here I come!!
I can see the border at this point
The two Welsh cyclists were at this sign waiting for their two mates who were still climbing. One of them kindly took this photo.
Glad to be at the top of the first climb for the day.
We had a lovely chat with the guys swapping tales. Turns out we have ridden in their area on our LeJog trip when we rode through Chepstow to Tintern Abbey and the Wye Valley in 2013.
My new Welsh cycling buddies
This is the view only a couple of km into Spain.
4 km down the descent is a viewpoint overlooking the valley and celebrating Spain’s success in the Tour de France.
Spanish TDF winnersTDF statue. This photo was taken by a friendly Spanish motor cyclist I had started a conversation with.
Once at the bottom of the descent we rode along a river valley and crossed the Garonne, the river we had followed extensively around Bordeaux, where it is a wide and very muddy river. Here it is crystal clear!
Garonne River
The second climb of the day was required to take us off the busy main road. We crossed over the river and climbed steeply through a series of switchbacks to the village of Es Borders.
We continued to climb out of the village and continued through woods, adjacent to the river. The following sign ensured an expletive. 16.1%!!
16.1% is tough!
This is a section of the wooded forest.
The beautiful river we followed.
Here I am ambling up a slope.
This route did offer some great views.
We ultimately descended into Gausac, an architecturally interesting town with winding, cobblestoned laneways. Next thing we were in Vielha a large, busy town.
We could have stopped for refreshments here but noted on our route that there was a third climb. I am not a fan of climbing with cold legs so we just idled through the valley spinning our legs in low gears as we continued climbing through Betren, Escunhau, Casarilh and Arties before arriving at our destination in Salardu.
We started this morning 700 metres above sea level. We are now at 1300 metres. tomorrow we are over 2000 metres before heading into Sort.
Todays climbing graphToday’s route map
So following our usual routine of showering and washing our clothes we went wandering around Salardu. It is a small village set on a steep slope. It is a ski village.
We were really on a mission to find food!! Eventually we located somewhere very close to our accomodation. It looked closed but upon entering I think the entire village was in there, spirited away in a series of rooms all stone walled and seemingly underground.
A fantastic first meal in Spain!
Now to rest a little.. not too long mind you! But just a little given I am succumbing to a head cold.
Finally here are three shots from around the local village. The church goes back to the 12th century.
All the houses are constructed of stone with slate roofing.Tucked up in the hillsA beautiful vista.
Today was scheduled as a rest day, but for anyone who knows me, they would know that term does not sit easily with me. I can’t do nothing!
Originally we had hoped to do the classic Tourmelet climb, weather permitting. Thunderstorms were forecast to hit Bagneres between 12 noon and 1 pm rendering this ride and climb as being in the ‘ not too sensible’ bucket.
Instead we opted to do the Superbagneres climb which starts right in Luchon.
Luchon is another spa town so you can guess what breakfast was! Yes, bread only! Hardly the food for a cyclist! So I supplemented this with some coconut cream I had purchased from the local supermarket.
We dropped the paniers for this ride given it was an out and back ride.
The views were simply stunning!
Below are a range of photos from the climb.
The climb is 17 km long. At the top is a currently closed ski village. Great views over Luchon. I managed to fall off my bike whilst sticky beaking and now have quite a nice range of bruises on both legs and gravel rash on my buttocks and thigh! No photos, ha ha!
I am concentrating on the descent!Today’s routeThe climb
It was a very fast and fun descent back into Luchon where we went straight to a creperie for a nice galette and coffee.
Being our third spa town we thought we had better visit one and see what all the fuss is about. 15 euro for us into the level with an extraordinary sauna network in a cave that was founded in Rome an times. There is a network of 150 metres in the cave.
After extensive showering and cleaning procedures you enter the complex tunnels where the humidity is 100 percent with air temperatures of between 38-42 Celsius.
You find a seat somewhere in the darkened chambers and sweat profusely. back out for showering before entering the jet pool. We did this cycle 3 times and decided we could not cope with a 4th session in the stunning and incredible cave.
File photo of part of the cave
We then caught up with Annie for coffee. We met her in Tasmania a few years ago when she was doing a ride around the state with Prickles. They are about to head off to ride together for 6 months! Annie is now based in Luchon.
On the way back to our accomodation we dropped into a small restaurant recommended by Lisette and Sumi. What an extraordinary hour we spent there.
Bruno is the owner and chef. He was very loud and very, very drunk. He was very keen to impart many thoughts with us. It was difficult to get away from him, but he had a kind heart and although he is jaded with the politics in France, terrorism and yearns to live in a chalet in the mountains, he is a good cook and we had a nice meal!!
Very sober Sharron and very drunk Bruno. What is not showing in the photo is that Bruno is caressing my hands endlessly!!
So tomorrow we say au revoir to France as we are only 10-15 km from the Spanish border.
I love this photo! Hence it appears twice so that it is the lead photo when I “press” this to Facebook !!
What another brilliant day! But before I get into that, a few little oddities from our accomodation in St Gaudens. The accomodation was run by two very strict ladies. You darned not cross them. They swore prolifically in French. They had unusual taste in light fittings!
There were a number of these! The big fluffy balls were ‘curious’
They also win the prize for the smallest bath award:
Yes I know you bath with your clothes off but this photo was merely for ‘illustration’ purposes only.
Notwithstanding that they did take good care of our babies:
Yes the bikes are in their breakfast room.
I think they may have underestimated the eating power of cyclists. We were strictly allocated one croissant, one piece of cheese, one slice of ham, one tub of natural yoghurt, 2 pieces baguette. I did manage to obtain a second coffee but that was because I had not had orange juice. I noticed the older lady carefully counting grapes too… but they were a bit soft and most of us passed.
When we packed up our room to depart, this was the view.
We left St Gaudens via the same roads we had entered and headed off towards Valentine. It was cold at 9 degrees and we had bare legs, but well rugged up on our top half.
We ideally would liked to have dumped our front paniers for today’s climb. However it was an unknown factor as to whether the van would be at the top for us to grab warmer clothes for the descent. So we erred on the conservative side and chose to carry provisions for the full day.
We rode through Valentine (6.1 km), Ardiege (8.9 km), Cier de Rivière (9.8 km) arriving at Col de la Hountared at 12.6 km.
We turned right climbing through woods ( what a surprise) but what a nasty little climb this turned out to be, with a 17 % section!
That is me climbing the last hundred metres or so.A close up would show me grimacing!!
Around the area of Labroquere (17.1 km) we noted the old Roman funeral pile looking more like a section of a fence.
Saint Bernard de Comminges was an impressive village with a cathedral overlooking ancient roman ruins.
Remains from an ancient Roman villageJust over the road, unexcavated Roman ruins
We continued through a number of villages including Sarp (21.6 km), Aveux (22.7 km) travelling through narrow wooded valleys along the side of a river.
At Mauleon Barousse (29.1 km) we stopped as the Bike Adventures van was there. After a chat with Andy we motored on as I was not keen for my knee to cool down.
Mauleon-BarousseMauleon-Barousse
We turned right at this village and came across this sign, indicating the commencement of our 19 km climb.
The sign indicates that our current altitude was 576 metres but we were heading to 1775 metres over 19 km of climbing
As with all climbs, Tony has a leave pass to do what he wants. I like to climb on my own, cognisant of my knee and asthma. Today it was to be my back though that would cause me pain!
The views were great
As you climb it is important to stay mentally focused. Each km there is a sign indicating what exactly average incline is for the next km. The first few were only 3 -to 4 percent. Then they increased to 7,8,9 and 10 percent!
About half way up a couple of ‘young’ cyclists from Canada passed me and cheered me on, in French. Around one of the hairpin bends Tony was waiting to take photos of me grimacing!
I must be hot as I have unzipped my clothing. Sorry Hannah!! Modesty goes out the window in favour of ‘comfort’
I followed Tony for a bit and we came across these cows. They were so cute, with the adults having bells that were ringing. It explained all the cow pats on the road that I had seen too. They seem to just wander and go where they want.
Also note the TDF road markings
Nice view looking back Can you see me? I am a speck climbing up
This next photo is as I entered the last km of the climb.
Looking back down Only a few hundred metres to goMade it!
I was very glad to get to the top. My back had been having muscular spasms for over half the ride. I lay down on the grass and did some stretching.
There were numerous cyclists at the top all congratulating each other!
Time to descend. More clothes back on as it is always colder when descending.
The view on the descending side
Descending Some friendly random cyclists who were also descendingView from one of the villages descending
We had a fast descent into Bagneres de Luchon. We were the first of the cyclists to arrive and knew we had a bit of time to kill before the van arrived. We stopped at a restaurant and had lunch and then pootled to the accomodation where we did some bike maintenance and enjoyed the sun.
Tomorrow is a rest day. The weather forecast is not brilliant putting a dampener on our previous plans, but we will wait and see what the day brings!
What a brilliant day in the saddle! It was a day full of “oohs” and “wow”! It was not an easy day riding up and down hills, ending up 300 metres higher in altitude than the start.
It was only 9 degrees Celsius when we left Marciac. As we climbed out of town, the mist was rising above the paddocks.
As we climbed a little further and rounded a bend, our first BIG wow occurred. The Pyrenees were straight ahead, snow capped and very inspiring!
Still a fair distance away, but we will be there within two days.
We past through many heavily wooded forests today, always climbing. Spinning in our small chain ring, constantly thinking about the days that lay ahead, conserving energy and my knee as much as possible.
We past through villages of Mazous ( 21.7 km), Estampes (24.3 km), and Estampures (27.4 km) and Mazerolles (29.5 km) all very quiet and sleepy. I think we had seen 3 cars at this stage, and about 8 barking dogs!
At 38.6 km we rode into Trie-sur-Baise a large bastide village. We felt it was too early for coffee but picked up extra water and some Lindt 90% chocolate!
Trie-sur-Baise, from outside the supermarket!
The road descended and it was great to ride on some flat!
We crossed the river and climbed into the woods, arriving at Campuzan (49.2 km) to then descend.
At 51.3 km we crossed another river and rode past this flash looking chateau.
Flash looking chateau!
The omnipresent Pyrenees kept us very focused view wise! They are getting bigger!! All the time I was wondering which bit we would be climbing through.
Leaving Lassales at 61.2 km we rode up the steepest pinch of the day with a short 20% incline! Nasty! Granny gear engaged!
Brief deviation: Here is a photo showing page 3 of our route notes from today. Leon, who works with Tony at Caterpillar, asked why my km overall each day are less than Tony’s. ( He has noted this from our strava file uploads, being quite observant!). The answer is simple. It is to do with navigation. We are using my Garmin to try and match route notes. That means if we deviate off course ( eg in a village looking for food, drink, just looking around), if that is not in the course route, I will stop my Garmin and start again when on route
Look at all the ‘climb into woods’
Below is the church at St Plancard. We stopped just around the corner and had a light snack before yes, climbing into the woods.
St Plancard (74.8 km)
Another inspiring Pyrenees view!
Far less inspiring, me having just climbed out of the woods!The view I had after climbing out of the woods! This is why I ride my bike!
We eventually ran out of woods to climb, arriving in the very busy town of Saint Gaudens. We are now happily ensconced in our hotel, having arrived quite early. Fortunately we were granted an early check in.
There is a very curious art ‘installation’ just outside our hotel. It is moving. Plank by plank this curious structure is moving with the aide of about 20 helpers!
Today’s route. 92 km and over 1600 metres climbing.
Finally, the view out our bedroom window is just awful! I am sure you will all agree! A reminder of what is to come in the next few days! Tomorrow is another tough day but the weather forecast is promising!!
The little blue squiggle indicates where we rode today in France
Barbotan is a thermal spa town full of ‘old’ people. Last year we stayed in another spa town in France, Bourbonne-les-Bains. That town also was full of ‘old’ people. I discovered another commonality today, they have meagre breakfasts designed for ‘old’ people, not cyclists.
Unfortunately not one healthy option available only high sugar cereals and bread and jams. I did ask for ‘fromage’ but got a big shake of the head!! At least the company was good!
Left to right: Martin, Mike, Lisette, Suni, Andy and Tony
We were first to depart the town riding down the main pedestrian strip. I was quite taken with this fruit and vegetable shop, particularly the colours and presentation.
The baskets of product front left are a type of dehydrated mushroom.
Riding out of town we rode past Lac d’Ulby where there were lots of people camping. We did not stop as the temperature gauge was showing only 9 degrees Celsius. Whilst we had plenty of clothes on our top half, our legs were bare and we were keen to keep them rolling over, albeit slowly as today was short in km and we could not arrive too early!
From the Lac we rode through undulating fields and vineyards. Grapes and maize were the main products.
Small quiet roads passing through farmlands.
More grapes, plus Tony
Villages past through included Cuxtan (9.0 km) and Ayzieu (15.8 km). The next two photos show the views in this area.
At the entrance to a chateau
One thing we always notice in the sleepy hamlets and villages are just how quiet they are. It is like the people have all been spirited away. They are often ghostly quiet. If the silence is broken, it is generally in one of two ways. The tolling of the local church bell ( and every town has an ancient church) or it is the local dogs we upset.
When the day is short ( km wise) and you can’t arrive at your destination too early you cruise on your bike. You also look for places to stop, take photographs, have a coffee. However today towns with coffee were light on.
The route continued to be undulating with a couple of shorter climbs having 14 percent pinches. That is when you would like to dump the extra kg hanging off your handlebars!
By about the 25 km mark I had dumped my long sleeve jacket and had arm warmers on! It was a balmy 14 degrees!! Ha ha. But the sun was nice.
More of today’s route
At the 25 km point we entered Ste Christie D’Armagnac, a small hamlet. The instructions said to “BL, road climbs through arch and then descends steeply (Caution rough lane).
However, the route was totally blocked with fencing closing the road. What to do? That is the advantage of having a Garmin satellite showing local roads. We re-routed and within a few km rejoined the original route.
We planned to stop at Aignan (38.6 km) hoping to find some sustenance. It did not disappoint. Aignan is another bastide town with the all familiar squares. I popped into the small supermarket and found some nice local diced cheese to nibble on. We sat in the sun!
Yet another 12th century churchThe view from our spot in the sun
Leaving Aignan we noted the sunny blue skies had become ominously dark in spots, and rain was threatening. The wind had picked up as well.
The rest of the route was as it had been so far, undulating up and down with occasional shorter pinches.
I have just come out of one of those steep pinches here!
On the outskirts of Marciac is this lake.
Look at that dark cloud! It motivated us to move on!
We arrived in Marciac well ahead of the Bike Adventures van. We knew we would and had planned to kick our heels up somewhere! After a visit to the boulangerie, we sat in the square enjoying the sun ( that dark cloud having moved on).
View from the squareMarciac is also a bastide villageAnd again!
After showering and laundering we went wandering visiting the historical buildings.
Looks like I got caught reading about this building whilst enjoying the sun
We then wandered down to the second spire that dominates the local skyline. St Augustine was an ancient convent.
St Augustine
Enter the arch shown on the left and this is what we found!
An archeological dig with skeletons!Broader overview of the dig
So another day done and dusted! Tomorrow gets a bit more serious climbing wise as we continue through the foothills of the Pyrenees to Lannemezan.
An 8 am breakfast hosted by an irrepressible Frenchman who had quickly figured my name out and kept calling me “Madame Sharron”. He was keen to talk to an Aussie as his daughter is studying economics at the University of Melbourne.
As we were leaving I had great fun trying to get him to pronounce “ooroo”.
Ronan the friendly Frenchman
Wet weather gear was the order of the morning with light drizzle. Leaving Villandraut at about 9 am with the ultimate destination being the spa town of Barbotan-les-Thermes.
We rode through Prechac (7.1 km) and just before Les Gilets (11.9 km) we noted Chateau Cazeneuve on the left.
Not bad!
To try and string the day out we planned to stop for coffee at the very first village that had something open. We had been on some gently undulating roads through woods arriving in Bernos-Beaulac (16.6 km), Cudos (21.1 km) and then Lerm et Musset (31.4 km).
We noted the Bike Adventures van with Mike aboard outside a small tabac. 2 cups of coffee later we were back on the road in continuing drizzle.
At Goulade (33.8 km) there is an interesting old church. It looks bigger front on as it has an impressive facade.
Goulade
After Ciscos (40.1 km) we were riding through miles and miles of Gascon forests for some 15 km. During that time it stopped raining!! Hooray!!
We found Mike on the side of the road in Saint Gor and whilst chatting had some snacks and told him we would likely stop at either St Justin (76.3 km) or La Bastide D’Armagnac (80.3 km). I was keener on the latter, based purely on name alone!!
St Justin was a quaint village but asleep. No one was to be seen! The few shops that existed were closed ( very common in France this time of day).
St JustinThe dungeon at St Justin, assume no longer in use!
La Bastide D’Armagnac was only 4 more km up the road. Wow, what an impressive old bastide town from the 1100-1200’s.
The 1200’s church dominates the square
We had lunch under this arch
We had a very tasty lunch at a crepe cafe. Raw egg, cheese, ham, mushrooms on the lightest crepe I have ever tasted.
The shop next door sold a wide range of Armagnac. If it had been open I may have been tempted to have a taste!
Just as we were finishing up the tandem girls rocked up with Jonno. He was hungry, but the girls don’t eat whilst riding. We followed them up the road to the Notre Dame Des Cyclistes.
I was really looking forward to this visit. Unfortunately it is closed on Mondays so we walked around the outside.
It was only another 14 km to our accomodation in the spa town so off we went in search of a warm shower.
Barbotan-les-Thermes is a curious village, with a very large spa facility. It seems to attract old people ( and I mean people significantly older than me!) to their so called therapeutic waters allegedly capable of curing everything!
I watched a man limp out! I thought, well he is not cured! But then maybe he could not walk at all when he went in.
Looking through the windows, we noted exercise bikes in the thermal waters. Obviously not popular! Barbotan ancient gateway
Reverse view of the gateway
So now we kill some time waiting for dinner! Looking forward to some tucker but we are not due to be seated until 730 pm!!
Today was a 97 km ride, at touring pace. It was very pleasant as we work our way south towards Spain, and hopefully, no more rain!
Nervous anticipation? Crap pillows? Hot room? Whatever the reason I slept very badly last night. I could not get comfortable and tossed and turned so I was relieved when daylight arrived and I could justify getting out of bed.
As is the case with most Bike Adventure trips we were first to breakfast. We knew that we would be stringing breakfast out as we would all depart together. Here we are, clean, eager and pristine!
Left to right: Jamie, Barbara, Elizabeth, Gordon, Sharron, Martin, Lisette, Suni, Johnno, Tony and Mike
We all departed Bordeaux together, with Tony and I leading out due to the fact that we ‘knew’ the area and because we were familiar with the way around the roadworks that impeded the route instructions.
As you can see from the photo, we all have wet weather gear on. It was about 10 degrees Celsius, so quite fresh!
Mike has asked us to take our time today. In Europe check in to accomodation is quite late, and tonight’s was 4 pm. Today was a short ride of 74 km meaning we would take it really easy, and not push at all, otherwise we would be there late morning and make ourselves unpopular on day 1!
Reality is this will happen each day as the distances are shorter than previous trips such as London to Venice.
We pootled out the bike pathway passing Latresne and heading into La Sauve, up last the Abbey we had visited only a few days before. The rain was a steady drizzle.
The road undulated through vineyards and beech woods with a couple of short but steep little pinch of climbs.
Passing through the village of Capian at the 37 km point we continued with the theme of undulations and vineyards. The following pictures are from near Cardan (41.8 km)
We descended into Cadillac where we planned to have lunch. We found Andy in the Bike Adventures van and we entered the bastide village via one of its remaining ancient gates that had a marker showing flood heights from Garonne inundations.
In the village centre we were fortunate enough to find a bloke selling hot chickens from his portable rotisserie. A bargain at five euro! Tony bought himself a half baguette for 47 cents!
Sitting in the market square eating our five euro chicken
The village shops were quickly shutting down for the day ( being a Sunday) and we could only see one option for a coffee. 4.90 euro for one coffee! You can buy a chicken for that!
We then hopped on our bikes and cruised around checking out the village.
This chateau seemed deserted and also has a interesting moat
After dragging our heels for as long as possible we were actually getting quite cold. Back onto the bikes and head towards our destination.
Just past Pujols-sur-Chiron we past this ruined chateau surrounded by a lovely, thriving vineyard.
By the time we arrived in Budos we had warmed up, and no longer needed our rain jackets! Hooray!
Rain jacket off in Budos
From here the road descended crossing a stream, continuing through a small hamlet and into some woods that continued for about 6 km.
Shortly before entering Villandraut we could not help but to notice this hotel promotion.
Looking towards Villandraut from the gaudy statue
Fortunately we were able to check into our rooms a bit early. After storing our bikes, laundering our riding gear and showering we wandered through the village.
There is a very impressive chateau that was built in 1305 both as a residential palace and for defensive purposes on the orders of Pope Clement V, who had been born in the village.
Impressive exterior
The chateau is undergoing archeological work as well as extensive restoration. It is free to visit. We did not take any photos of the interior. Whilst architecturally and historically impressive I was turned off by the plethora of modern, gaudy art that has been placed over the 13th century walls, detracting from their simple magnificence.
So day one done and dusted. We will meet for tea in just over an hour together.
Today’s route
Finally, some may think this is the appropriate place for me! Certainly a Frenchman was having a good old laugh at my expense. No matter what is happening in life, you can always find a smile!
Same as yesterday…jumped out of bed at 7 am, ran to the balcony to check the weather ( before my coffee). Well I was a tad excited to be met by this!
Sunshine!
The plan today was to check out some of the bastide towns. Between 1220 and 1370 the counts of Toulouse and King Edward 1 of England ordered nearly 300 fortified towns ( bastides) be built in southwestern France. They were laid out to a highly rigid formula, established for military, political and economic reasons.
Ready to walk out the door modelling all things Rapha.Then there are over 50 steps to carry the bike down! Coming up is worse!
So we undertook the getting out of Bordeaux crawl, crossing the Garonne. After about 5 km we located the bike track and headed out to Creon ( 25 km) , where we had visited a few days before. The plan was coffee and we found a lovely cafe in the town square.
Whilst sitting there enjoying our coffee we notice a very lone figure in a window opposite us. Using the zoom on the camera this is what we found.
The ghost of Creon
There is also a nice little church adjacent to the square.
Next stop was the village of La Sauve-Majeure, which has a Benedictine Abbey founded in 1079, and now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The abbey is also located on the pilgrim route Santiago de Compostela. Predominantly ruins after a chequered life, the abbey remains majestic in both Romanesque and Gothic styling.
The ruins. Surprisingly you can still climb the 157 stairs of the bell tower.One of 6 remaining ‘capitals’ located in the ruins
The stairs up the bell towerPeaceful surrounds
I was quite blown away by the Abbey. There is a link to Eleanor of Aquitaine who was a generous donor of funds in the 1100’s towards the construction costs.
Back onto the bikes and off to the next planned stop, Sauveterre-de-Guyenne, founded in 1283 by Edward II of England. The village is sited in the heart of Entre-deux-Mers, the region between the rivers Dordogne and Garonne. Human settlement has been traced into pre history.
Sauveterre no longer has its ramparts which were destroyed in the early 19th century, but it does still have the 4 corner gates.
One of the gatesAnd another gate
We met three groups of cyclists here, including an older group from England, a couple from Australia and New Zealand and two younger guys who were making their baguettes up ready to eat.
The guy on the left is from Ireland, the guy on the right London! I told them I would blog their photo! Hopefully they find it.
After lunch it was about 2.30 pm and the weather had started to close in, dark clouds threatening rain. We decided to beat a retreat back to Bordeaux, some 55 km away.
116 km done and dusted today.
In the morning we transfer accomodation to Bike Adventures hotel about 1.5 km away. We are unsure if we will get a ride in or not for two reasons. Firstly, we need to see about the transfer of our gear and secondly the weather forecast is uber shite.
Thunderstorms are predicted and I can’t see the point of riding, as it is not a lot of fun! Anyway I am sure when the 7 am alarm goes off I will do my dash to the balcony to check!
Oh, one other thing! We have found out that we will know two of the riders on our ride to Barcelona. Barbara and Jamie from England are part of the group of 10. They were on our team last year from London to Venice.
That is what I love about touring with Bike Adventures, being able to renew acquaintances and share cycling adventures and stories!
yakkablog 