We have now ridden over 2000 km since leaving Australia and most people might think that is enough. Bike riding is such a great way to see a country. You get to see, smell and hear so much more than you possibly could in a car or bus. So after having two days off the bike and travelling from Venice to Florence by fast speed train ( up to 250 k /hr), we prepared for our final fling before heading home.

Arriving in Florence we were ‘greeted’ at our hotel by a female with an unfortunate disposition who proceeded to make life as difficult as possible there for a while but we were able to get through the situation although our bikes needed to be housed elsewhere in Florence and we needed to pay 16 euro for that. So we scootered our bikes around to the commercial garage and got a bit of a feel for Florence.

A pretty awesome city. This is the view from our bedroom window.

Very well guarded too.

Inside the duomo it is massive. The dome is particularly beautiful.

This morning after breakfast we carried our bike gear around to the commercial garage to collect our bikes. We need to cart all our clothes, toiletries etc for 3 days on our bike. The bike will be significantly heavier, altering the balance and making hills slower and harder.

We headed down to Ponte Veccio which is where our route started. We had walked along the bridge last night amazed by how many jewellery shops lined both sides of the bridge.

It was a very slow few kilometres getting out of Florence in the early morning crazy Italian traffic but we eventually hit quieter roads where we could relax more.

The morning was quite cool and overcast but the forecast did not mention rain. By the 30 km mark it was spitting and we stopped for a coffee to see if it would blow over but it looked like it was going to hang around so we pootled on.

The hills were certainly more difficult with the extra weight on the bike so we just chugged up. Some photos from the ride:

We were so pleased to arrive in San Gimignano as it was only 7 degrees Celsius and we were a bit damp and certainly cold! We were met by the nicest lady. Total opposite of last night. The hotel building was constructed in the 1500’s and has an awesome cellar area that has been excavated.

San Gimignano is apparently one of Italy’s best preserved medieval towns, standing on a hill overlooking the Val d’Elsa. The town has ancient Etruscan origins fro  3BC and is named after the Bishop of Modena who saved it from barbarian hordes in 370 AD. After becoming a free commune in 1000 the village flourished. Within its newly built city walls noble families vied with each other in the construction of magnificent towers as residences. By the end of the 13th century there were 72 towers. 13 remain.

We also met friends for each in this most unlikely of locations for a catch up. We met James and Kirsten on Qamea Island, Fiji over Christmas-New Year. They live in Sydney and have been travelling predominantly so James can play photographer having just completed a photographic tour including Dubrovnik, Slovakia etc. Just wondering where our next exotic location catch up should be??

The final day arrived far too soon. I felt somewhat melancholic and had mixed emotions. Pleased that the goal was now within my reach and I was basically intact with the exception of some very painful bruises on my knees. However I was a bit sad too as I don’t do farewells very well. I hate saying goodbye to friends from far flung places.

By necessity it was going to be a busy traffic day. That cannot be avoided when travelling from one big city to another. Italian drivers are a bit crazy too, particularly on roundabouts. You need to be brave and own the lane in the hope they will not try and squeeze you out or cut you off. Notwithstanding that, numerous did cut in front so you need to have your wits about you and be very alert.

Rain threatened at the half way mark so we stopped and had a cappuccino at a little cafe in a little village. We were made very welcome there and became somewhat of a fascination to other patrons who asked about our trip.

Steve and Neil shot past us shortly thereafter and we sat behind them until the hotel in Mestre ( saved us navigating)!

There were congratulatory hugs all around and we waited for each rider to turn up and took their photo. Then it was upstairs to the mezzanine level to share in champagne and croissants courtesy of Bike Adventures.

Then it was necessary to strip down the bikes and pack them for their next journey to Florence on Monday morning where we will have a three day ” post script” ride, self supported.

In the evening we travelled with Bevis, Willemijn, Il Papa Gibson, Hoss and ‘Efty onto Venice Island for a celebratory dinner. First view of Venice as we departed St Lucia station.

Great food and company topped off by the waiter plying us with FOC home made liquor ( x 2 each). OMG it was very strong!!

Feeling a bit “heady” we then had fun and games getting back to St Lucia station for the trip back to Mestre.

So folks, that is it for a few days. We head to Florence on Monday by train and on Tuesday start a three day ride, this time on our own, carrying our own gear around  the Tuscan hills.

Today we bid farewell to The Alps that had challenged us in so many ways in the last week but first we had other issues to contend to at the hotel in Torbole. Breakfast.

Breakfast opened at 7 am. There are 75 rooms at this hotel on Lake Garda and they had guests including a bus load of obese Germans. Getting into breakfast was a difficult descent down the stairs as the Germans pushed and shoved to get there first. Elbows were flying. Quite a blood sport.

Amazing how fast they can move when food is involved. They piled their plates so high that structural engineers were required! Hungry cyclists who are averaging over 100 km per day and have been climbing peaks can eat! But we were unable to match the mighty Germans and conceded defeat to their superior eating abilities.

We sat away from the fine German team quietly pleased that they had not discovered not one, but two coffee machines that we were working hard. But alas the caffeine smell permeated attracting a few of their alpha males.

Back to cycling! We headed off out of Torbole taking a quick look at the Lake. There was a strong wind blowing.

Just like yesterday we launched directly into a steep climb with cold legs with gradients of up to 14%. It was around 7 degrees Celsius and the big leg muscles did protest quite loudly!

This is the view around 1 km from Torbole as we climbed.

The first village was Nago ( 1.8 km), we then turned onto a cyle track that weaved up and down, under roads and across and so on.

After Rovereto ( 18.3 km) the real climb for the day started. It was a 26 km climb. On the way up we noted the church on the cliff. Rumour has it that the church is concerned about dwindling attendances on Sunday’s. I think this church would be a Mecca for rock climbers!

The climb today was tough going and I think it was made more difficult due to muscle fatigue. The views however were very rewarding.

Eventually we made it to the top!

Reaching the top also indicated that we were saying farewell to the Alps. One last look before descending.

The rest of the ride was a descent. Slow albeit due to poor road conditions  Tony’s worn brake shoes, and we also got stuck behind a very large gravel truck.

We were unsure where to stop for lunch and Sant Antonio ( 52.8 km) and Vali Del Pasubia (55.5 km) flew by and at the 60 km mark we arrived in Torrebelvicino and found a little bar open with 3 paninis left. So we purchased 2 of them plus 2 cappuccinos. I used their toilets…unfortunately as the only choice was a multi gender squat loo!

So from lunch we headed straight to Vicenzia a busy city with plenty of crazy car drivers and crappy roads. We did find a nice gelato shop though!!

Today was always going to be our toughest day on the bike. Little did we know what adventures the day would being when we awoke early, checking outside our window to see what the weather was like at 6.30 am. Was the sky clear? We certainly did not want rain for this tough day.

This is what we saw:

We enjoyed a nice breakfast and geared up to leave by 7.45 am to give ourselves extra time. Steve told us there would be a 7 pm curfew, but we all knew that would not effect us. David was ready to roll at the same time.

We turned left only 100 metres or so from the hotel and it was straight into a 13% climb! At the 1 km point we had already climbed over 100 metres, so an average of 10 percent! Some words were said to express our thoughts about such a “nasty” climb with cold legs!

We quickly gained height and looking back towards Breno this was the view:

We were heading to Passé de Croce Domini at 6217 feet. It is a tough climb over 22 km. There is no flat sections in that 22 km!

I was on my own for the majority of the climb as Tony and David rode together, taking the photographs. I passed an older lady collecting chestnuts, I could hear gun shots regularly, and I enjoyed the vista from greater heights. I could hear cows with their ringing melodic bells and even saw some horses wearing cow bells.

Eventually I was so high that I was surrounded by snow and I was sweating from the efforts of the climb. Steve came last in the van at about the 18 km point and Il papa (Gibbo who was in the van opting not to ride today) later told me that I had such a determined look on my face! Yes, I was very determined that this berg was not going to get the better of me.

I finally reached the top of Croce Domini totally delighted! After the ubiquitous photo at the sign, it was inside for a nice warm cappuccino courtesy of David ( as the van had headed back down the mountain and we had no money with us.

Time to put extra clothes on for the descent and head off. It quickly became apparent that this descent was fraught with danger. The other side of the mountain road was covered in a mix of slushy melting snow, thicker snow in parts, and ice. We stopped to have a better look as really it was not rideable with a road bike!

We looked up the hill to see Steve walking down. That was odd and knew there was an issue. Walking back to him he said that he had a report from Tony D ( who had been dropped off at the top of Croce Domini) that the road would not be suitable for either of the vans. He was unsure what this would mean logistically with the other riders who were still making their way up the big hill.

We decided to proceed but at this point could only walk our bikes. What an adventure we had though in the next few km that just made this day the most brilliant “ride”.

We came across truck trying to bring cows up the hill:

Just as we walked down from this truck I could hear cow bells and could see three shepherds herding a group of cows up the road towards us. Meet my new friends:

This is the road we were meant to be riding down:

I never thought I would have my photo taken with my bike like this:

So a little further down we made new acquaintances of the human variety. These guys were having troubles with their motor bikes in the snow. They are from Switzerland, living at Lake Constance where we had been a few days before.

These are a few pictures of the scenery as we kept descending.

Eventually we were able to ride our bike but it was slow and careful as the road was wet. The bends were often in the shade and quite a few degrees cooler so possibly slippery.

We rode through Bagolino at 42.5 km and Cerreti ( 44.4 km) but pushed on to Storo. We needed to stop as we had no drink left. The water at the cafe at Croce Domini was not potable. We stopped at various shops on the way but they were closed for the long lunch break. We found a pizzeria and I topped up our water bottles and asked for the biggest cappuccinos she could make. They came out in milkshake glasses. Awesome!

We we had another climb to attend to and it was pretty cold. We were surrounded by mountains/cliffs and could not see how we would get through, but bit by bit we climbed up and around the gorge and made our way through to the other side.

Some different views.

Now it is time for some sleep. A big day and another tomorrow with around 1700 m climbing. In two days we will be in Venice. What a journey and adventure.

It was very cool when we left our hotel this morning as La Prese is in a valley and it would be hours before the sun hit it. WIthin a few km we could see the sun in the next broader valley and the promise of a great day weather wise.

At the 9.7 km point we said farewell to Switzerland, after having done numerous crossings over the last week. Italian border control did not even glance our way. Cyclists are obviously deemed a low security risk.

Passing through Tirano we were keen to keep moving as we had a reasonable climb to knock off to get to Aprica. Steve said it was easy after yesterday’s but I do not think any of us concur.

The climb starts at the 16 km point with a series of steep hairpin bends. It continued to climb for 10 km.

My face was a bloody mess, quite literally, as I noted blood soaking my gloves and splattered on my bike.  I assumed I had a blood nose. It kept up for the majority of the climb. I later discovered I had a little cut on my nose which I found preferable to a higher altitude nose bleed.

There were really nice views the higher we climbed.

I was very pleased to reach Aprica where we had a very enjoyable, and cheap morning tea. So cheap we all ordered second cappuccino’s. According to the signs Aprica is a very old Roman town from around 160 AD. It was hard enough for us to get to Aprica let alone the Romans nearly 2000 years ago. How inspiring they were!

As we left Aprica the view moving forward was pretty ok too.

We descended down to Cortina Golgi and the road was seriously crap. Huge fissures just big enough for a bike tyre to jam in, along with some crazy drivers.

We predominantly descended for most of the rest of the ride into a very strong headwind with a small section of gravel roadworks. Arriving in Breno at just after 1 pm we parked our bikes at the restaurant located next door to our hotel and enjoyed a nice protein feast.

Tomorrow is the day that is causing us the most consternation and discussion as it is the toughest for this tour. We start with a climb up Passa Crocedomini with no opportunity to warm up. We start climbing only 100 metres down the road and it is a climb that goes for 20 km with an average of over 7 percent, with a 19 percent section.

Below are a few photos from the rest of the ride before we rode into Breno.

When we awoke this morning it was minus 5 degrees Celsius. I was filled with trepidation for a few reasons. Firstly I was concerned about black ice and slippery conditions but more importantly I am an exercise induced asthmatic and cold air under exertion is a major trigger for bronchospasm and an asthma attack.

I take steroid preventers morning and nightly and before and during exercise use ventolin so followed my usual preventative precautions. I also ensured that the Bike Adventure leaders were aware.

We delayed our start by cleaning our bikes hoping the temperature would improve and in fact it was 2 degrees when we left. Leaving Davos we headed towards the roads indicating Fluelapass, our major climb of three for the day, at 7818 feet.

The climb was solid! I concentrated hard on regular breathing. The scenery was beautiful and I really enjoyed listening to the many cows roaming with bells around their neck. The higher we climbed we noticed snow flakes falling around us.

I was very pleased to make it to the top!!

The descent was extraordinarily cold. I think I can safely say I have never been so cold ever on a bike despite all the great quality bike clothing I was wearing. The scenery was brilliant and Tony kept stopping to take all of the photos.

We rode straight through Susch (27.4 km) having made the decision to stop for a coffee at Zemez (33.6 km). We caught up with Geoffrey and David there. David was shivering having descended slowly due to losing a wheel spoke and suffering wheel shudder during his descent. Awful coffee for 3.90 Swiss francs but it was great to sit in the sun and warm up.

Immediately after leaving the coffee shop the road started climbing up the side of a river valley. It was a 6 km climb and not too bad. Nice views again.

We then descended five km down to the Livigno tunnel. Bikes are not allowed so the Bike Adventures van was to ferry us through. As we were the second and third riders to arrive at the tunnel we were transported through fairly quickly. It was an “oh wow ” factor as we came out the other side, in Italy!

The four of us ( plus Gerry and Neal) decided we would head to Livigno for lunch (56.2 km). I love the photo below and wondered whether the Giro had been through here in previous years?

We found a cafe and had a light lunch. Great coffee and toasted sandwich all for five euro! Bargain compared to Switzerland morning tea.

After lunch we needed to mentally prepare for our third climb of the day to over 7500 feet. I probably “enjoyed” this climb the most, for want of a better word. I was happy with my lungs and the weather had warmed up nicely so suggested to Tony that he shoot off at his pace and that I would ” see him in Switzerland”. It was a solid climb again with the pass at 7595 feet, just a few hundred short of the Fluela Pass.

It was time to put all the clothes back on ready for the long descent from the pass. It is too dangerous to just fly down. There are multiple bends, huge cravines and drop,offs and you need to concentrate. One slip could be fatal. The road is also quite busy!

I sat in the middle of the road near the white line to ensure I had as much space between me and the drop off as possible. Sections of the descent ( as per the other two) were gravel with major roadwork repairs having ripped up the bitumen leaving gravel.

We passed through a couple of towns including San Carlo and Poschiavo before 9arriving in Le Prese.

We have just completed dinner which was really nice as we were all together ( does not happen often). Tomorrow is an easier day but the following day is the killer.

Today started off in the rain, leaving our hotel in Bregenz, Austria. We skirted around a section of Lake Constance to say goodbye and could see that the weather looked OK on the other side, hoping our side would improve quickly. 4 km out of Bregenz we crossed this river below.

We were mainly on cycle paths, both sealed and cinder following a flood dyke path. As one would imagine it was flat, but given the wet conditions and cinder grit flying around we just pooled along quite happily as today was to be a long tough day, with most of our altitude to be climbed in the last 20 km.

Lichenstein came into view across the river. Magnificent mountain backdrops everywhere.

We rode over a bridge at the 45 km mark, the midway point being the border between Switzerland and Lichenstein.

We spent 18 km in Lichenstein all up before crossing back into Switzerland. We planned to have lunch prior to the climb and did so in a pretty little village named Maienfield (72.9 km). Turns out we had 10 minutes to buy some supplies at the local shop because at 12 noon all the shops were closing for lunch. So one litre of milk, 2 bananas, 1 toblerone and a half roll each constituted lunch, eaten at the local water trough.

Some gentle climbing ensued and we passed through Jenins ( 75.3 km) and then Malans (78.2 km). The ominous note descriptor at the 80.3 mark was that the road continued to climb for the rest of the day.

We skirted around Schiers, rode through a farm, continued with a mix of cinder and sealed bike paths, arrived at Jenaz (94.0 km) and Saas (101.2) still climbing gently. From Saas it became more serious and tough going arriving at the expensive ski resort of Klosters (111.2 km).

The mountains were becoming increasingly majestic and snow capped.

The rest of the climb was really tough and I am told was consistently around 10 percent. My lower back ached so I took the opportunity to stretch it a few times before proceeding with the us relentless climb.

Cars and trucks passed by very closely on the narrow and busy road. I decided to move a foot or so out into the road to force the vehicles to give me more space rather than constricting me into the side retaining wall.

I was very relieved to reach the top of the climb and then descend into Davos!

Davos is extraordinarily touristy. It is another expensive ski resort currently in off season.

We headed off as a threesome again today (with David) all prepared for the wet weather. It had been raining and the air was damp and crisp. From our hotel in Neuhausen we descended to the river following the paved cycle path to Schauffhausen (3.2 km) which is a nice old town on the River Rhine.

We followed the river for some distance on the road rejoining the cycle track just after Busingen AM Hochrhein. For the next 11 km there was a significant portion of cinder pathway parallel to the river and also through agricultural farm land and forests. Given the wet weather this ensured that our bikes, backsides and lower backs were nicely covered in light coloured dirt.

We made the first of our many border crossings on a cycle path leaving Switzerland and entering Germany near a cowshed. No fuss, bother or ado.

We passed by Diessenhofen (13.4 km) and Hemishofen (19.5 km).

We the rode through a nice old arch into the centre of Stein AM Rhein, a very pretty and ornate German village. As we were already a bit cold and wet we briefly thought about stopping for a coffee but decided it was a bit too early.

We followed a railway line fairly parallel for some distance on the cycle path before leaving it to enter Steckborn (34.3 km). Shortly thereafter I slipped on the road whilst crossing to the cycle path falling, adding more bruises to my growing collection and removing some skin. I was a bit sore a shaken but think my main concern was ” is my bike ok??”

Having already crossed back into Switzerland we entered Germany again at the 49.4 km mark.

We arrived in Konstanz at the 52 km point and negotiated our way through heading to the ferry to cross Lake Constance. It is a short 15 minute crossing. Enough time to have a coffee, toilet break and try and dry your Knicks under the hand dryer in the bathroom!!

Once in Meersburg we were playing dodge with hundreds upon hundreds of tourists, on wet cobblestones to boot. We decided to have lunch but needed to find somewhere that may be sympathetic to three wet and dirty cyclists. We located an Italian styled pub and there was initial consternation with the waiter but the boss man came out and showed us where we could sit!

None of us were sure what country we were in having crossed borders multiple time in only a few hours,  and having just crossed Lake Constance by ferry. So David asked the waiter ” excuse me, what country are we in?” We all had a good laugh as Australia is such a vast country that most of us do not get to experience multiple countries in one day.

The answer was Germany – good answer as we could pay in Euro rather than our limited and precious Swiss francs.

While we waited for our lunch I wandered out to the foreshore attracted by a pole with gargoyles. An artist with a dark sense of humour I suspect ( I have not photographed the odder ones…). But these couple took my fancy.

Vineyards up the hill on the foreshore.

This is just as we departed Meersburg.

It started to rain again on and off which made riding quite slippery. As it is autumn here, the deciduous trees have started to shed their leaves which in places densely litter the ground along with what we think are chestnut husks.

We were quite slow and careful with turns and descents not wishing to have any more spills. The alps beckon and we need to stay uninjured.

We rode through more towns and villages including Hagnau (61.0 km), Immenstaad (64.9 km) and  Friedrichschafen (74.4 km) home to the Zeppelin museum.

This is the view across the lake at this point with storm clouds brewing again.

We had the option of shooting out to Lindau Island but given the inclement weather erred against it.

Pricing through a series of apple orchards we came across a small food establishment with a beer garden so we opted to have an ice cream and seek shelter hoping the rain that had just recommended would soon pass.

We were very pleased to ride into Bregenz and rock up to our hotel at 2.45 pm. We were the first in and were able to strip off and enjoy a nice warmshower and wash our clothes.

At the time of writing our friend Gibbo is yet to arrive. Not always the best at following route instructions he turned left when he got off the ferry ( instead of right) and ended up around 110km off route and in Switzerland somewhere.  The van was despatched to retrieve him. I hope he has remembered it is his wife’s birthday today and that Australia is 8 hours ahead of us otherwise his troubles may not have ended!! Happy birthday Anita!!!