Memories

Memory
All alone in the moonlight
I can smile at the old days
I was beautiful then
I remember
The time I knew what happiness was
Let the memory live again

We have booked a “big” trip for 2024, flying in and out of Milan, arriving early May 2024. I am researching and mapping in my spare time and lots of excitement as to the route that is unfolding.

So far it includes the Italian lakes Maggiore, Como, Iseo and Garda, the Dolomites (Corvara through to Sappada), a finishing stage of the Giro d’Italia (catching up with some of the Italy Bike Tour crew), then into Slovenia (Triglav National Park, Julian Alps) then Croatia (Istrian Peninsula).

Lake Garda is a firm favourite – that will be my third time there, and I cannot believe that I have to climb a shite hill for a third time to get out of there – first time I said “never again”, second time I said “you have to be * kidding me”), and I have mapped it to leave Torbole, shaking my head in disbelief that we will climb it with a loaded bike.

What makes it awful? You climb 100 metres in the very first km, with cold legs, with 14% pinches – no warm up, just straight up – but the view from the top is beautiful (see the video below London to Venice), plus photo taken in 2016.

The most affordable accommodation was at the top of that hill too – and that would mean multiple more climbs (as planning two nights) and I just laughed and said “that is not happening”.

View above Torbole, Lake Garda

Dolomites and Slovenia we have done before, but not around Corvara (maybe Sella Ronda too) and not Triglav or the Julian Alps.

Lake Bohinj (Slovenia) should be a highlight – and then the ride across to the Soca Valley. The Soca valley is super nice.

The Istrian Peninsula – rode through there in 2019 but from Trieste (Italy, on the coast) so looking to differ the route as we head to whichever port.

I need to stop mapping now as I impatiently await ferry schedules to be announced for next year to cross the Adriatic and back into Italy (hence do not know re Pula, Rovinj or Piran, and whether we will transfer to Pescara or Venice).

Leading towards Pescara as we’ve been to Venice at it is illegal to even push your bike on Venice island. We’d need to immediately ferry to Lido and ride from there….anyway all will fall into place.

Rovinj, 2019

Once back in Italy I am thinking Tuscany (again, but some different places and routes), the microstate of San Marino and then unsure which way we will head back up to Milan – but definitely not the Venetian plains.

We are starting near Milan airport and have secured an anchor point accomodation where they will keep our bike bags used on the trip from Tasmania. we will return there for our final night to disassemble and pack the bikes.

This process is not without frustration. I had a place identified but the owner contacted me privately requesting funds above and beyond the stated rate in Hotel.com. It was a non refundable booking, so a bit of a bind really.

It was resolved by Hotel.com in my favour, and they gave me a $250 aud voucher as a bonus!

Research continues and in that process I stumbled across two pieces of our cycle touring history:

  1. London to Venice – 2016 (England, France, Switzerland, Germany, Lichenstein, Italy) 2200 km
  2. Calais to the Med – 2015 (England, France) 1500 km

I used to do a video montage to music of our trips – put a huge amount of time in doing it and stopped in 2017 (Bordeaux to Barcelona) as I had some music copyright issues (but did not know which song!).

We did these predominantly for our memories, but for those that like cycling, like Europe, like music (well my kind of music that is), maybe these maybe of interest to you.

Warning – you do need some time, but you can stop and start the videos.

Both of these trips were before we did self-supporting trips. We used Bike Adventures, an English based company, who provided the route notes (yellow sheets in those days with a series of turn by turn instructions), transferred luggage, provided back up support and pre arranged accommodation.

We made many lifelong friends on these trips – and enjoy staying in touch, and catching up with some of them as we can including Graeme (recently in England), David and John (in Sydney and Tasmania), Graham (in Sydney), Geoff (Italy, Tasmania), Tony (Canberra), Brian (England, Tasmania) and of course, our wonderful friends John with whom we recently stayed with in England (and his gorgeous wife Val)and Alan and his lovely wife Sue in Wales(who have also visited us here in Tasmania….and I’ve likely forgotten someone with my post pumphead brain.

Facebook enables us to stay in touch with others including Helen, Neil, Phil, Jerry….great memories that we treasure and enjoy more and more as we get older, and have felt, firsthand, life vulnerabilities.

The links:

PS. I have not told my Director yet about the next BIG holiday – I am sure she wont mind ha ha ha. We can keep it secret can’t we?

Lake Bohinje, to the west of Lake Bled

Final French Fling

Judy and Stephan (Sharon’s parents) were coming for mid morning brunch today. They had been staying at their cabin in a forest somewhere high up a hill…I’m sure I could get lost there too if I tried!

I wanted to contribute something to the brunch so had this great idea. Genuine French croissants.

Yes I know I am in Switzerland but France is not very far away. Ben was not sure if they would be open, being Sunday but I wanted to ride anyway.

The roads were ever so quiet. I do like riding earlier before people with cars get out and about.

Leaving Therwil I headed to the border and onto Leyman..,no bakery, but just out of the village, on my way to Rodersdorf, I took these nice rural scenes and another reminding us how fast they can drive here on open roads.

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I rode through a series of sleepy villages including Biederthal, Wolschwiller, Lutter and Raedersdorf. No bakeries but nice scenery.

I liked this church with the ominous sky.

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No man bathing here, but the cat was enjoying it. After this car, I saw many. I suspect there are many wild cats in this area.

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Looking back up the hill to an older chateaux.

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More forest, nice and cooling. Actually the temperature was great. Being so early it was about 19 degrees Celsius.

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Freddy made it onto the side of this structure.

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Then this was adjacent…TNT…it’s dynamite! Made me think of the AC/DC song I often train to.

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This bee hive was in a village. Great to see and surely this is something we could do in Tasmania with local communities getting  behind it.

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Another sleepy village ahead. I climbed around and then over the hill.

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I then had a steady 4 km climb of 6-8 percent and started to wonder about the merits of croissants! Were they going to be worth it, if I was actually able to find a bakery? So far, not one bakery!!

Riding on the town of Ferrette came into view. At the top of the hill is the old castle ruins.

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I found a panel with information. So the castle is Château de Ferrette. The county of Ferrette came into existence in the 11th century and consisted of a large part of southern Alsace ( the French region I was in).

In 1324, the County was acquired by Austria through the marriage of Jeanne, Countess of Ferrette with Albert II, Duke of Austria.

Austria ceded it to France in 1648.

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Having climbed for 4km, there was going to be some downhill….not very fast though as I hate cobbles. Again, this is steeper than it looks. The time on the clock is 8.40 am. Still nice and early.

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Down the hill and around the corner..a bakery!! It was open! A really nice village and one I will come back to explore more.

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I had a coffee and packed my 6 croissants into my pannier  and left as I was not sure how long it would take to return.

I was just cruising and spinning with zero interest in pushing myself as my knee and feet have been playing up from the walking. My body is also still recovering from my 24 hour ride two weeks ago.

I rode through Fislis and Oltingue where I photographed this renovators delight.

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Pretty flower boxes and a sign to the gelato shop!

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Looking towards Switzerland and Liebenswiller.

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Back in Leyman I photographed this cool crossing sign. Quite a few of these here.

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So the croissants made it back safe and sound and a scrumptious brunch enjoyed by all.

Wags, Ben’s dog from Australia, now happily ensconced in Switzerland, ever hopeful of food scraps.

Hannah arrives in a week and she is going to be overjoyed to have a pooch to play with.

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I have now cleaned and packed my bike. I considered riding Monday am and riding with Ben into Basel and back but took the conservative option….’just in case’.

My flight does not depart until 10.45 pm so it is going to be a long few days as I journey home.

Today’s route took me across the Swiss French border a few times as you can see.

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Thanks for reading …. stay tuned for my next cycling adventures. Xxx

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Montervarchi to Florence ( 70 km, 999m) Final day! Boo hoo

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We were not upset to leave Montervarchi although disappointed that our last day riding seems to have arrived ever so quickly. We were approaching 2100-2200 km in how far we had ridden but we were not tired. The only thing we were fed up with were the awful pillows the Italians prefer. They are anorexically thin and hard as concrete.

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Last day of the pre ride routine

 

The day was cool again being around 4 degrees Celsius when we left. The skies were overcast but rain had not been forecast. The first few kilometres involved weaving our way out of the city in the busy early morning traffic. By now, we were getting used to the drivers consistently crazy driving.

Today there were a series of hills to climb including a couple of steeper and longer climbs, all made slower by our luggage we were carrying.

Firstly we crossed over the Fiume Arno ( river) that flows into Venice. A much dirtier river than the ones we had seen earlier in our trip such as the Rhine and the myriad of canals.

We skirted around Terranuova Bracciolini and Pernina.

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Early ride view

Along the hilly ride parallel with Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona we passed through a multitude of villages. This one had a nice church.

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These guys looked quite mafia.

We stopped at a cafe just around the corner featuring statues.

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She had a big head!

It started raining so the jackets came back on. The temperature was now a balmy 7 degrees Celsius. The following are some of the scenes.

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Despite all the warning signs from France to Italy we did not sight one deer!

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This is an example of a really good section of Italian road.

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Olive groves

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We plodded on through Pian Di Sco, Vaggio, Borgo A Cascia, Reggello and Poggio Giubbiano – all such mouthfuls, before descending back down to Fiume Arno and outer Florence where the car drivers are even crazier, if that is at all possible.

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That is Florence in the hazy distance. You can make out the Duomo.

Back in Florence it was time to clean and pack the bikes ready to head home. We again stored them in a commercial garage around 500m from our hotel. We had the same room, with the same incredible view of the Duomo.

So now it is time to reflect and prepared to head home and set new goals to kick.

Post Script Day 2: Chianti – 62 km, 1052m

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We awoke to blue skies today, despite it still being 4 degrees Celsius at 9 am. The breakfast spread was impressive and after the Manager insisted on taking our photograph (as he had never met anyone who had ridden over 2000 km in 3 weeks) we walked up to the tower behind the hotel to see what the view was like.

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One view

 

 

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And another showing some of the remaining 13 chimneys

The manager offered to give us food to take with us (little does he know most of us do that anyway – today being no different – but it was the first time any hotel has offered that). He will get an awesome Trip Advisor review from me.

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The narrow alley walking back to the hotel. That is our bedroom window on the top level above the narrow alley.

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The little courtyard behind the hotel. Our bikes had been stored up in the area beyond the couple of steps and the side gates were locked from the inside.

Leaving San Gimignano we were scheduled to do a 79 km ride through the Colle di Val d’Elsa, down to Monteriggioni, then heading up towards a series of towns in Chianti.

We rode through Poggibonsi where a man cheered us on from the side of the road. He was obviously a BMC supporter as that is what he kept calling out and clapping. We laughed.  About 5 km past this point Tony said that faithful Garmin said we had 130 km to go. Hmm…that was weird so we stopped and found that he had two different Gpx files for today’s ride and they differed. We pulled up my file ( we had on both Garmins as back up is one failed) and I only had one.

Either way, we were not on the original planned route and were on an ‘alternative’ route and well off course. The good news was that I could see that we were heading in an easterly direction that should intersect with Castallina in Chianti and bring us back on course, but losing around 18 km in the process.

The downside was that this road had serious hills. There were three sections warning of 15% climbs. Not too bad with no luggage but the extra weight made them hard!

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First warning sign

The area was nice interspersed with olive trees and vineyards.

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San Gimignano in the very distant background

Eventually we arrived in Castellina in Chianti and had some lunch noting some of the unusual cars the crazy Italians drive.

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This can be parked anywhere.

 

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Funky and small.

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Small and useful.

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Not sure that there are side airbags in this one!

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Nice views.

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Sitting in the sun, even though it was only around 11 degrees by now.

After a nice break car watching, we headed off towards Radda in Chianti, my favourite for the day. Scenic, nice views, rolling hills to ride over and a great little art gallery where I made a purchase, direct from the artisan, which he is shipping back to Tassie for me. Wish I had photographed it, but he uses the curved panel from an old wooden wine barrel and attaches a miniature metal bike he hand makes, along with a couple miniature metal handcrafted Tuscan trees. It will be a nice momento.

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The artist also does a series of bike posters.

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2 cyclists and 1 rooster in Chianti

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Chianti scenes

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Another rooster, this time in a field of lavender.

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More roosters.

We arrived in Montivarchi  disappointed to have left the beautiful Chianti countryside as Montevarchi seems a bit daggy. But we did find a few little gems including this church of San Lorenzo.

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Nice church in the older section of Montevarchi

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Exterior of the San Lorenzo church

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One of the “nicer” looking homes – but I found this a bit “creepy”.

Starving hungry we could not find one restaurant. The hotel staff told us of one that opened at 730 pm!!! A few hours away. So we asked where the nearest supermarket was. I was happy to find something I like to eat.

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Yummo!

So tomorrow is our final day riding. We head back to Florence on a scheduled 74 km ride, with over 1000m climbing for the third consecutive day.