I woke very early to the sound of wind. Bugger! I got up and stuck my head out the window trying to work out the orientation of the house. Bugger…it was an easterly!
I climbed back into bed but slept restlessly as I knew it was not going to be a walk in the park kind of day.
After breakfast we bade our farewells and hit the road.
All geared up and ready to roll
This is the route we took today. When I checked the forecast in the morning it was for 25-35 mph ( not km/h) in the morning easterly direction, changing to up to 50mph in the afternoon. Bugger! As can be seen from our route, we were heading in an east to,south easterly direction.
Today was the hardest day I have ever done in a bike, regardless of distance.
We rode a total of 174 km incredibly slowly due to the wind. I was pedalling downhill and doing 15 kmh on a 3 percent decline. On the flats I was lucky to get 10-12 kmh in the worst winds.
We also climbed just over 1600 metres.
The wind was in our face all day, without reprieve. I’ve not experienced such unrelenting wind before as often you change direction or the wind settles down.
It is difficult to picture wind but in the photo below, you can see the dirt being whipped off the farm land.
We rode through a number of charming villages.
One a variety of surfaces.
Taking any opportunity to draft!
Predominantly an agricultural region with the canola in flower. Canola is grown widely here as a form of bio fuel. Apparently the Republic’s president has a financial interest in many of them bio fuel companies.
Thirst was not an issue today, but we found a few of these drinking machines where you can purchase still or carbonated water.
Service stations were the go today, as they had clean toilets and ‘food’.
Probably our favourite town today was Limotsyl.
Hindsight shows that we should have stopped here as it started to bucket down with rain just after for some 30 km.
We refuelled at a pub around 30km from our destination for much needed tucker. This also got us out of the wind and rain and in front of a nice wood heater. I had no idea what I ordered for dinner but recognised one word ‘schnitzel’. Obviously no Czech translation so,ordered two!
The downside to stopping meant we completed the last 20 km of the ride in the dark. That was a challenge as we only had our warning lights on the bike. There was a climb in total darkness between two villages. No lights, no moon due to the rainy sky. That was technically challenging as was the descent as there were toads all over the road. No pictures either!!
We were pleased to arrive at our accomodation only to find that Tony’s mobile was flat and we could not ring the owner to come and let us in. Half an hour later we were in, showered and went to bed!
Given tomorrows forecast it is likely we will tweak the itinerary as the strong winds are forecast for the next few days. A real shame, but nothing you can do about the weather but act safely!
After my Easter Monday whipping by the local boys, I thought it was safe to walk out the front door, what did I find?
Yet more local boys!
This bunch sang a song as they used their canes ( far more gently than the older males earlier in the morning!). This is a hilarious tradition I must say and I could see some politically correct ‘do gooders’ finding offence in Australia. A third group arrived shortly thereafter and I submitted again!
We had arranged to meet a local group of riders, ‘up the road’ at 10 am. Tomas, Milos and Kat I had ridden with before, but I had not met Jaroslav or Honza.
It was quite windy, but a pleasant 20 degrees as we headed to the town of Podebrady.
Once in town, I had requested we visit the spa fountain. I had been here 12 months before and was very surprised to taste the water here. It is naturally carbonated.
Tony having his first drinkThe classical epitome of elegance!
As you can see in the photo above, locals visit the taps to fill bottles to take home. Far healthier than the original bottle contents too.
We then headed around the town to a series of cafes adjacent to a large park. The place was swarming with people walking and enjoying the lovely weather on what is also a public holiday in the Czech Republic.
Here we are at the cafe. Whilst the weather was great, it was quite cool in the shade, hence the old granny blanket in the second photograph. I had a great iced coffee. Most of the guys had a beer, including a chocolate beer!! I will take my chocolate neat thanks!
We headed out via the park, walking our bikes as it is illegal to ride in the area.
Lo and behold, another water fountain. The boys replenished their bidons.
Cruising out of town past the first water fountain.
Turning right into a busier main thoroughfare.
No roses, but hey I am making the most of smelling the non scented tulips! 😜
I love riding with this Czech group….they enjoy their regular refreshments. Our numbers had dwindled … but the remaining lads ( Mirek and Milos) knew of a place! Prerov nab Labem!
The view from the pub looking back towards the town Prerov nab Labem
We needed to wait a short time for a table. Here we are assessing the likelihood of a table becoming available within a short time. We were fortunate.
After a lovely bowl of a Czech soup that I thought was beef with funny tasting meatballs I found out the meat balls were actually liver!! Hmm…
We were only 5 km out of Cekalovice and we went looking for an ATM so we could have some local currency and then headed home via the Elbe River.
We stopped for a picture at a small chapel. Behind us is a locked metal gate. Behind that is a small chapel, maybe 1-2 person capacity.
We were quite taken by this topiary
Now we are packing our bikes up ready for an early start tomorrow. We had tweaked the route as were were heading to Podebrady, but given our visit today, we will do a slightly different route.
The forecast is looking pretty good for the next few days. I am not sure about the wind, but I am hoping it eases otherwise it will be a headwind all day if it maintains the same easterly direction.
There is nothing glamorous about long haul travel. 4 plane flights later and we have arrived in Prague.
We were collected by my Zwifting friend Mirek and his daughter Eliska. I spent a week with Mirek and his family last year. Having me stay is his ‘reward’ or ‘punishment’ for ‘convincing’ me to ride in the 24 hour Zwift event last year!
We detoured via a higher part of Prague to overlook the city and see the largest sports stadium in the country.
The stadium is in the background. The tall tower directly behind us in an air vent for the tunnel beneath us. Very tall!
Highest priority once in Cekalovice was putting the bikes together. All appears fine and they have blended into their new home well.
Sarka was busy decorating eggs when we arrived. It is an Easter tradition on the Monday here to have the decorated (hard boiled) eggs, which later get eaten. I was learning the finer art of decorating. Sarka teaches children at a primary school, (3 grades) and I can tell she is very experienced at this! I did not find it that easy at all!
Straight into the Czech Easter tradition
Here are some of the finished products.
I can see a Sharron Yaxley original design in the bowl!
The egg below was decorated by an elderly local lady. After colouring the egg with a dye, the egg is carved with a pin head! Extremely intricate and painstaking!
We wandered into town via the river for dinner. I have swapped my mode of transport. Scooter it is….although I am not ambidextrous, only being able to push off with one leg. I did manage to get the route onto strava!!
Mirek is busy at breakfast building a wheel for his bike before heading off for the Easter Monday tradition.
Easter Monday, I was told that ‘boys’ knock on the door and ‘whip’ the girls backsides with their canes. I interpreted boys as pre puberty age male
I was wrong. Traditional Czech welcome!
The Czech Easter welcome!
In return, the children receive Easter tokens. The men receive a shot of an alcoholic beverage!
Amazing hand made biscuit art work
So with that, I will sign off and get ready for a ‘coffee ride’ with my Czech friends I rode with last year. I think we might be heading to Podebrady, so Tony can experience the surprising water fountain.
Charlie Brown once said to Snoopy, “We only live once, Snoopy”. He responded, “Wrong! We only die once. We live every day”.
People often ask me, “How come you ride so much”? “How come you travel so much”? “Gee you have a lot of holidays”! One even suggested I will be “crippled” by the time I am retired.
Who knows what tomorrow holds? I do not have those answers.
I do know this – I have been to far too many funerals for people who died far too young – they had dreams and aspirations that went unfulfilled!
I made a conscious decision to work to live! I am doing today what I may not be able to do tomorrow. I get it that not everyone understands that, or agrees with me – but then, this is my life and not theirs. I am fortunate that I have a husband who happens to agree with me.
We do what we want these days – and do not try and fulfil others expectations, as invariably, we fail!
Yes, I know that I have physical limitations that make these rides bigger challenges, but I try to balance it by being as fit as I possibly can.
If I had a dollar for every time I have been told I could not do something, I would be rich! Negative feedback tends to do the opposite and fire me up!
As a child I was restricted for many years after being diagnosed with exercise induced asthma. 10 years later I’m hanging off ropes in dark caves and sporting a wind surfer (that I was hopeless at). I was bush walking carrying heavy backpacks and canoeing. I ran at track and field and cross country events. Ventolin was a god send!
In my late teens, I was restricted after a skiing accident resulted in major knee surgery, taking me two years, and a lot of rehabilitation, to walk without a perceptible limp. I fluffed my way into the Australian Defence Force much to the horror of my parents.
I prolapsed two discs in my back as a young mum – and kept working despite the pain and did not take one day sick leave. I have had pneumonia and pleurisy to an extent the doctors wanted me hospitalised, and I refused.
In my 30’s I had an undiagnosed ruptured appendix (gangrene and peritonitis) for 3 days and played it down enough that the doctors thought I was not as unwell as I was (that was my closest escape in life…as I was told after surgery that I would likely have died within a further 24 hours).
After my fourth knee surgery, three and a half years ago I was told by my orthopaedic surgeon that I could not ride more than 5 km on my bike.
Since that day, I have ridden over 95 000 km. I’m now the leading female distance rider on Zwift globally (65,000 km). In addition to riding on the roads in Australia, I have also ridden some 10,500 km in Europe and 4,000 km in New Zealand.
Last year I broke a couple of ribs in Europe after coming off my bike on the cobbles in Switzerland and still managed to ride myself to hospital. I then went on and did a further 1000 km through Europe. Most people had no idea about my broken ribs. Did it hurt? Absolutely! I kept it fairly low profile as I did not want the travel insurance company to tell me that they would not cover me if I kept riding, or that I had to come home early!
Rib pain or awful pasta?
Last year I rode solo 1150 km in what was a massive, personal challenge in New Zealand. Day 2 was Cyclone Hola with big winds and incredible rains. I had friends telling me not to proceed. Did I give up? No!
Day 2 solo trip. I have taken all my wet clothes off and all my dry clothes on…still smiling!
So I know I have guts and determination in buckets that is not always understood – but for me, it has been a survival instinct for some of my other life experiences and challenges (not the subject of this blog).
Reality is I know I am one of the tougher chicks I know (regardless of age) and I know what I have to overcome to achieve what others either avoid totally, or do more easily. I know how hard I train!
My experiences show that those that criticise the most are often the ones who talk the talk, and never walk the walk. To criticise is easy.
So the impending challenge is my biggest yet.
I thought Pas de Payrol, Puy Mary (Massif Central, France) in 2015 was my limit, with 3 km of 13% gradient near the top! I know I was cussing near the top!
Then I did London to Venice with even bigger climbs including Fluela Pass in The Alps (below). A brilliant trip.
The following year I tackled The Pyrenees (France and Spain) en route from Bordeaux to Barcelona. The climb below is heading up Superbagneres.
Last year I conquered Colle della Finestre (Italy) when I was riding with the Italy Bike Tours gang. That is my biggest single ascent to date.
These photos are on the descent. The last 8 km of the climb is gravel. I am a nervous dirt rider so was unsure as to my ability to get to the top within the required time parameters (remembering I did this climb with 2 broken ribs). I did it with time to spare. Check out the wall of snow on my right hand side, and a number of the hair pin bends (55 on this climb).
This year Team Yaxley is undertaking what is a huge challenge, by anyone’s measure. Certainly the biggest for either of us.
4,300 km riding, 33,770 metres ascent, 10 countries, one month, self supporting. That means we carry all our gear for the month including basic mechanical gear. We do have the luxury of staying in accommodation with beds! We have ‘rest’ days scheduled for Budapest and Split.
There are risks. Life is risky.
The route – with the blue line between Split (Croatia) and Anacona (Italy) representing our overnight ferry transfer.
The countdown is on, and we fly out this Saturday afternoon.
Upon arrival into Prague, I have provided one full day rest for jet lag, particularly important as jet lag is one of the major triggers for my epilepsy.
Our first day is a mere 172 km (910m ascent) or so heading into the eastern section of the Czech Republic. Day two is another 174 km (1540m ascent) taking us into southern Poland. Baptism by fire.
By the fourth week, we will be in the Dolomites (Italy) and I have some unfinished business there – as last year we were unable to complete the planned day ride looping through a number of climbs. Last year it was very cold and the decision was made to descend asap rather than risk pushing on.
The descent down Passo Falzarego is the coldest I have ever been on a bike. We sought refuge and hot drinks at this cafe. I was so cold that I was having difficulty steering my bike through the hairpins.
This trip there will just be the two of us – no support crew, no riders we can cruise along with. Based on my touring experiences to date though, we will meet people and create many new memories to share.
I look forward to sharing our adventures with you – and thank you for your continued support and encouragement. It is humbling when I know how some of my ‘regulars’ look forward to each blog, including Tony’s Uncle Jim, and ‘older generation – young at heart’ friends Noeline and Margaret!
Early morning start to head off to Aosta for our final Giro ride…a shorter ride that was to include a long climb of around 28 km to arrive in Cervinia, very close to the Swiss border, and not that far from the French border either.
Two of Italy Bike Tours great team getting ready…Stephano and Roberto.
Riders getting ready….
I can’t forget Marco, another Team Italy Bike Tour member. He does not ride, but organises!
After a 10 km warm up we peel off to climb up Cervinia. Not as steep as Finestre (thank goodness) but a lot longer. 28 km of climbing is a long climb.
As is my preference with long climbs, I do it on my own…trying to maintain a consistent pace, cadence and wattage.
Looking at the climbing graph you can see it is a solid climb, starting at just under 500 metres above sea level, heading to just under 2000 metres, with 4 slight reprieves on the upward journey….small, but welcomed.
The temperature was in the high twenties and I sweated, necessitating a quick water bottle fill at a small Italian village..walking into a bar asking for some tap water.
Again, there were thousands of cyclists on the roads, some in small groups including one team wearing blue that had a strong cyclist with their hands across the shoulders of the second cyclist helping push them up the hill.
Electric bikes…there were a few of those. One lady went last me a few times motor whirring, and then she would stop…
An Italian rider asked me where Clive was?? ( I was wearing Italy Bike Tour kit, and Clive is the IBT owner). I told him ‘somewhere between the bottom and top’….but not riding! He laughed. I saw this guy a few times as he pulled over and was chatting away to people.
The higher you climbed, the temperature dropped, but the spectator excitement rose as you were cheered, had horns blared at you, and one couple rang their cow bells. Yes, gimme more cow bells!
More alcohol was being consumed and I was offered a glass of wine…and a sausage….there is a direct correlation between noise levels and alcohol!
Passing through the 25, 20, 15, 10 km banners they finally went 9,8 and so on until the 2 km mark , where they then drop by 100 metre increments…nice feeling!
I had been suffering painful stomach cramps the last 5 km or so and was keen to get to the bathroom!!
Down the finishing shute I was astounded by the beauty of the area. Cervinia is a valley of mountains, with the Matterhorn looming in front.
I could not get to the finishing line due to it being blocked by security forces some 200 metres out so that was it. Stop the Garmin! Time to soak up the atmosphere and find a bathroom!
Alas, I needed to pack my bike up first, ready for the flight to Rome….then…..bathroom and then this…
Cervinia is an awesome village, skiing and rock climbing mecca. You could see people skiing high up.
After the race we wander around, finding gelato…and then the Wymper bar, dedicated to Wymper an English man who was the first to climb the Matterhorn.
Outside the skies were darkening, and then BANG! Thunder rolling around the valley and we all try to hotfoot it back to the sanctuary of our hotel, making it just before the rain bucketed down. Others were not so fortunate.
We stayed in Cervinia until about 10 pm, having a meal at the hotel just metres from the finishing line.
Late night as we arrived into Torino to prepare for a 4 am alarm to transfer to Rome and the Giro finale.
The meteorologists got it right. We woke up to shite weather. Pouring with rain, black skies. It did not take long to decide to have a day off the bike.
Besides we we needed to pack up and clean the apartment that had been our home for 6 nights.
We wandered off in the rain for coffee and then had an early lunch at Wok to Work, our third visit. They recognised us. I had been giving my name here as “mink” so that when our order was ready they would call out ” Mink” Mink”.
Good tucker! Vegetables with prawns and beef.
I found a brilliant shop that sold the most wonderful quality chocolate moulds, at significantly cheaper prices than home.
Check out the bicycle mould!
Then went for a wander up Cours Victor Hugo to the Porte de Bourgogne.
Porte de BourgogneFound a turtle to sit on, check out the photo bombers!! Ha ha!
We also managed to upset a French soldier who questioned Tony re his camera use. We decided maybe we would move on out of the square as we were being watched very closely!
He does not look happy.
Back at the unit we received the call from Mike and Andy ( Bike Adventures) to let us know that they were on their way over to collect us and transfer us to our Bike Adventures accomodation.
Our bikes are now stored with the other riders bikes just off the restaurant.
A final wander of Bordeaux to check out a few other ancient monuments.
Check out the entertainment at the traffic lights. She was talented. She then went from car to car seeking money.
Juggling at the lights.
The first ancient abbey is the Eglise Saint Croix, constructed in the 11-12th centuries, attached to a Benadictine monastry from the 7th century!
Next up was the Basilique St Michel, a newer church built between the 14th-16thncentury! So much history in one city makes you a little complacent. The pilgrims stop here on their long walk.
Free to enter the church but fee paying and massive queue for the tower.
Checked out another confessional box. The seat was marginally better, just!
Beautiful wood work thoughLooking like a naughty school girl here plotting her next misadventure
Heading back to the hotel we came across a children’s scooter race event. What really attracted our attention was the event mascot, a kangaroo!! An Australian animal for a French event.
Kangaroo lost in FranceAnother curio we passed
Finally we ended up in another supermarket. All week I have been trying to source shaved coconut for snacking on. Coconut seems to be a rare product in these parts and I left empty handed again.
One of the things that has surprised us in the supermarkets is the availability and pricing of a wide range of alcohol. Here is the red wine section, with many bottles for only 3-5 euro.
A section of the red wines
We have now met all our fellow riders and we know three. In addition to Barbara and Jamie their friend Martin is also here, whom we know from last years London to Venice. They all live in London, with Barbara and Jamie formerly from Glasgow, Scotland.
We also have Jonno ( Cornwall, England), Suni and Lisette ( Durbin, South Africa) and Elizabeth and Gordon ( Ottawa, Canada, formerly also Glasgow).
So it is goodnight from Bordeaux. Tomorrow our adventure to Barcelona commences, and my fingers are crossed for improved weather.
Same as yesterday…jumped out of bed at 7 am, ran to the balcony to check the weather ( before my coffee). Well I was a tad excited to be met by this!
Sunshine!
The plan today was to check out some of the bastide towns. Between 1220 and 1370 the counts of Toulouse and King Edward 1 of England ordered nearly 300 fortified towns ( bastides) be built in southwestern France. They were laid out to a highly rigid formula, established for military, political and economic reasons.
Ready to walk out the door modelling all things Rapha.Then there are over 50 steps to carry the bike down! Coming up is worse!
So we undertook the getting out of Bordeaux crawl, crossing the Garonne. After about 5 km we located the bike track and headed out to Creon ( 25 km) , where we had visited a few days before. The plan was coffee and we found a lovely cafe in the town square.
Whilst sitting there enjoying our coffee we notice a very lone figure in a window opposite us. Using the zoom on the camera this is what we found.
The ghost of Creon
There is also a nice little church adjacent to the square.
Next stop was the village of La Sauve-Majeure, which has a Benedictine Abbey founded in 1079, and now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The abbey is also located on the pilgrim route Santiago de Compostela. Predominantly ruins after a chequered life, the abbey remains majestic in both Romanesque and Gothic styling.
The ruins. Surprisingly you can still climb the 157 stairs of the bell tower.One of 6 remaining ‘capitals’ located in the ruins
The stairs up the bell towerPeaceful surrounds
I was quite blown away by the Abbey. There is a link to Eleanor of Aquitaine who was a generous donor of funds in the 1100’s towards the construction costs.
Back onto the bikes and off to the next planned stop, Sauveterre-de-Guyenne, founded in 1283 by Edward II of England. The village is sited in the heart of Entre-deux-Mers, the region between the rivers Dordogne and Garonne. Human settlement has been traced into pre history.
Sauveterre no longer has its ramparts which were destroyed in the early 19th century, but it does still have the 4 corner gates.
One of the gatesAnd another gate
We met three groups of cyclists here, including an older group from England, a couple from Australia and New Zealand and two younger guys who were making their baguettes up ready to eat.
The guy on the left is from Ireland, the guy on the right London! I told them I would blog their photo! Hopefully they find it.
After lunch it was about 2.30 pm and the weather had started to close in, dark clouds threatening rain. We decided to beat a retreat back to Bordeaux, some 55 km away.
116 km done and dusted today.
In the morning we transfer accomodation to Bike Adventures hotel about 1.5 km away. We are unsure if we will get a ride in or not for two reasons. Firstly, we need to see about the transfer of our gear and secondly the weather forecast is uber shite.
Thunderstorms are predicted and I can’t see the point of riding, as it is not a lot of fun! Anyway I am sure when the 7 am alarm goes off I will do my dash to the balcony to check!
Oh, one other thing! We have found out that we will know two of the riders on our ride to Barcelona. Barbara and Jamie from England are part of the group of 10. They were on our team last year from London to Venice.
That is what I love about touring with Bike Adventures, being able to renew acquaintances and share cycling adventures and stories!
The alarm went off at 7 am. Jumped out of bed, made a coffee and looked out the window.
Rain! That was not in the schedule! So hopped onto the Internet to check the meteorological radar.
That is a big band of rain right across France and into Germany. Time to cool the heels for a few hours!
Eventually we got under way to head towards the Medoc, the area famous for producing some of the world’s finest wines.
By now we have realised that riding in Bordeaux itself is somewhat stressful. I have ridden from one end of London to the other ( and in peak hour). I have ridden from one end of Paris to the other (during a heavily congested Paris Marathon). I would prefer to ride in either of those cities than negotiate Bordeaux!
It is not so much the car drivers in Bordeaux ( where road rules are a suggestion only) but the cyclists! They are kamikaze crazy nutters who follow no rules weaving in and around, across, ignoring all and sundry. Throw in wet and slippery tram tracks for a bit of added excitement and you have an adrenaline charged ride. Well it is not even a ride as you are off your bike a fair bit!
Getting out of Bordeaux was about 18 km long today and our speed average was 16 kmh. Slow. The tram tracks were as slippery and dicey as nothing else, with my back end spinning out a few times.
We did eventually make our way onto a bike track around Blanquefort and followed that for a bit through heavily built up suburban and commercial areas.
Pre this trip I had spent hours looking at maps, researching villages and cycle reports to work out where to ride on the Bordeaux prologue days. I selected the option of using bike paths.
This is not what I had in mind.
This was the best one. Only went for a km or so, solid base.This one started ok but got muddy and boggy.The start of the third one. This is ok here but ended up rough as guts, with water puddles consuming the entire track and sand drifts. These are the vineyard access roads.
So after the 4th close encounter as we pulled onto the bitumen I realised something was wrong.
A flat tyre! Fortunately I had my team mechanic on hand to render timely assistance! Thankyou Tony. It was not a straight forward tyre change as the sand had attached itself to so much and we needed to clean bits to ensure a smooth ‘ putting back together’. Then my rear derailleur would not work, but the team mechanic figured that out too. He may have cussed a little!
At the 40 km mark the scenery was really nice and we were riding ‘properly’ without all the stops and starts. The vineyards were plentiful.
This was my favourite though.
Pretty flash, and look at that pristine lawn! Perfect for an afternoon game of cricket!
We had decided we would break at Pauillac on the banks of the Garonne, the capital of the Medoc. There was a wide variety of restaurants open overlooking the very muddy river. The port is a popular stopping base for sailing boats to de-mast before taking the river to the Canal du Midi.
The region seems keen on their BIG wine bottles.
On the return trip the GPS tried to take us back through more vineyards but we decided if that transpired we would ignore it and wing it. Twice we got caught in tiny village back streets heading for another muddy vineyard. U turn and keep looking.
It was very windy during the ride too. We have had wind each day so far but today was by far the strongest at around 25-35 kmh.
See how the flags are flying in the wind, at another winery chateau.
At Blanquefort the traffic was getting seriously busy so we opted to find the bike path for safety reasons.
Busy bike path along the Garonne near La Bourse, Bordeaux.
We have purchased some baby wipes and my Team Mechanic has given the bikes a nice clean!! We have promised our babies to take better care of them tomorrow!
So we have ridden 110 km today! In three days we have now covered 330 km, which is decent! What will tomorrow bring? Rain is forecast but let’s hope the old weather man is wrong.
My body is out of whack! I awoke at 4 am again! I wandered out to the lounge room and looked out the windows to see what was happening in the streets. All quiet but I did see a bloke sleeping across the road outside the closed pub. Sad that he has nowhere to go.
Thankful that I did have a bed, I tried to sleep again and blow me down, it was 8.10 am before I knew it! We had wanted to be on the road by 8 am. Dang! So the first lesson is we are setting our alarm for 7 am tomorrow.
Walking out the front door on the ground floor I somehow managed to walk straight into a bollard, corking my thigh! I felt that all day with each push of my right leg. So the second lesson is, look out for bollards that came at you from nowhere!
The weather was rainy so we started off with rain jackets and headed slowly down Rue de Victor Hugo in slow traffic.
We needed to cross the Garonne on one of the bridges but wow they were busy so we walked our bikes around trying to figure out the best/safest plan of attack. It was hairy and slow going, needing to backtrack and walk our bikes over numerous roads before identifying the correct route
We were on the look out for the cycle track as we had planned to ride this particular path to Creon. Ah, the heavy machinery had dug it up and it was blocked by bollards! Note to self, be careful near bollards!
Finally we found this.
Not a bad sign for the garage!Finally found what we were looking for.A section of the trackAn old railway station provided temporary relief from the rain.
Great cycle path on a disused railway line, with a number of intersecting roads but nowhere near as frequent as yesterday. Arrived in Creon to discover their market was in full swing.
Sampled some very nice cheese at this stall.Took a raincheck on the prunes!But ate this! Yummy!
After Creon we continued on the bike track and entered an amazing rail tunnel. It was pitch black upon approach and you could not see ‘the light at the end of the tunnel!’ However upon entering the lights came on. The tunnel would be some 100 plus metres.
We had decided to aim for coffee at Castillon-la-Bataille named after the decisive battle fought between the French and English in 1453. The French won marking the end of the Hundred Year’s War.
The town is also on the banks of the Dordogne, last visited when we rode from Calais to Carcassonne. That was a memorable day as we completed a TDF climb Puy Marie.
La Dordogne looking towards the battle fieldsAs you do!
Upon leaving the town, we entered a climb that has had TDF activity, judging from the names painted on road. The most frequent names were Bardet, Barguil and Roche. I saw one Froome! I am not normally fussed with Strava cups but was quite pleased to score one on this climb as I lifted my pace out of touring mode, motivated by the signs! I think from memory it was a 1.4 km km climb at a tad under 5%.
We weaved up and down and around a number of villages and vineyards of Saint-Emilion. A very scenic area.
Pretty as a picture
A few km out from the town of Saint-Emilion a hirsute young fellow came flying past me on a really crappy looking bike! So I decided to get out of touring mode pace once more and have some fun trying to draft off him ( as we had been riding into headwinds for some distance now).
I half expected him to utter that universally understood word telling to ‘go away’, but no! Look at my leg muscles! Getting stronger!! Ha ha
After a few km the hairy guy turned left and we needed to turn right. Within a km or so we came across a motor vehicle accident. This is the next lesson of how not to drive in France!
Not sure how the driver managed that one!
As we entered Saint-Emilion it started to pour with rain. As we climbed up the road to the older village section the surface changed to cobblestones. Now I find them a bit tricky at the best of times, let alone climbing a steep, but short section wet and slippery packed with aimlessly wandering tourists. I felt like shouting ‘ move your arse!’ as I weaved around them still climbing.
In the 8th century a hermitage was set up by Emilion, a monk from Brittany on the northern slopes of the Dordogne Valley. Fortifications began in the 12th century. Today the place is a tourist Mecca, with very interesting architectural heritage surrounded by a plethora of picturesque chateau’s and wineries.
Once at the top we rested at a bus stop waiting for the rain to ease. The following are views from the bus stop!
Heading out of Saint-Emilion we headed to Libourne, a very busy town with crazy traffic. We crossed Le Dordogne again.
The French have lots of flowers on bridges. It continues to fascinate me as I appreciate the vivid colours.
To avoid the really heavy traffic we deviated 11 km back towards Creon to rejoin the bike track in safety.
We ended up back by the Garonne.
Fishing huts on the Garonne
So before I finish up I need to come back to my title, what not to do. I have two more.
Crossing the Garonne I could hear screaming from water level. I jumped off my bike and was astounded with what I saw. Look carefully at the next photo and you will see that there is a steel cable to the left hand side of the small boat. It would appear the boat has been caught up in the very strong current and is effectively trapped by the cable and strong current pushing it into the same cable. The cable is one of two securing the larger work platform.
The lady kept screaming ( thankfully also putting her life jacket on) as she watched various items of their belonging enter the river.
I qualified as a rinky dinky Aussie surf lifesaver a few years back and there was no way I would jump into that water with the torrid and swirling currents. They needed a tug boat and maybe a jet ski to rescue them!
Note the cable that crosses the back left section.
As we left a car full of gendarmes arrived. Would have been interesting to watch but by now we were both very hungry. So this is a lesson on where not to take your boat in Bordeaux!
So with only one km remaining after having ridden a total of 137 km, peak hour traffic, crazy French drivers and one crazy Tasmanian chick what could go wrong?
Well Tassie girl misjudged a car, left with an almost impossible riding gap of about 30 cm. Not being Peter Sagan resulted in me choosing to ditch my body away from the car and onto a ledge… yes that same leg that was already caning, the one with my ‘bad knee’.
Ouch! But it could have been worse. My bike is fine and the nice young Frenchman stopped to ensure I was ok.
So what a day. 137 km done and dusted. Frustratingly slow in the cities, but ever so pleasant in the country.
…. you ever know what you are going to get. Yes, today was one of those kind of days. Frustrating and challenging but there were some great rays of sunshine!
Managing to enjoy the sunshine today!
Today required great risk, riding through Bordeaux weaving in and out of cars, cyclists who weave around all over the place, wet tram tracks and that was just to ride the few km to the railway station.
After eventually extracting train tickets out of the French language only vending machine and missing our first train, we hung around for a little too long.
This is my ” I am waiting ever so patiently NOT face”
Finally by 1030 we ended up in Arcachon, where the intent was to circumnavigate the Basin, catching a ferry back across the bay.
I had mapped out the route and uploaded to a Garmin GPS file, however it was having a hissy fit and kept trying to recalculate the route. So to save the Garmin from being thrown a great distance by Tony we decided to wing it. Yes in a foreign country at that.
Realistically we needed to ‘just’ keep the Basin on our left. In practice this was not quite so simple. Dead ends, one way streets in villages ensured we could not see the lake for 50 km or so.
What we did find was an extensive bike path network that intersected a road every 100-200 metres meaning stopping, starting, decleating, recleating. I reckon we did this 100-125 times today making it really hard to get into a rhythm.
This was a quite nice section of bike path.
We stopped at a boulangerie for a quick bite as they were about to close for the afternoon siesta. No coffee available. Hmm.
This is my “it’s hard being ketogenic at French bakeries” face along with ” where am I going to get my coffee from?” face
A little further down the road I found a coffee shop and ordered deux cafe grand crema ( with a clear vision in my head of the one from yesterday!) This is what turned up!
Deux turned into trois! And nothing like the image in my head! But coffee is coffee.. i downed the two mini espressos. Graeme Wicks, if you are reading this, guess what happened next?
The undoubted highlight of the day’s ride was the tip of Cap-Ferret, with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Basin and Dune du Pyla on the other. The Basin forms a huge triangle more than 100 km long.
Todays 80 km ride showing the Basin.
I walked up over the sand dunes at the Cape to the Atlantic Ocean.
Atlantic Ocean
Back at the Cap, this is the view towards the Dune du Pyla, regarded as Frances most moving monument. It is also the highest sand dune in Europe and growing at around 1-4 metres per year! Currently it is over 105 metres in height.
With time marching on we needed to get back to Belisaire to catch the ferry to Arachon to then catch our train back to Bordeaux. We could not help but to stop and check out the impressive lighthouse.
We just missed the ferry and needed to wait for an hour. What to do?
Oh but I did check out the oyster farm adjacent to the pier.
I am a big kid at heart so could not resist sharing a picture of my new steed from today.
So whilst the day was frustratingly slow, there were many highlights!
Interetingly there seems to be a number of blind people in Bordeaux, tapping their way around the city. I watched one poor lady try to find the road crossing with her stick, tapping all the wrong poles near the roads edge. Without thinking, I dashed across the road, grabbed her arm and took her to the crossing.
The whole way she was saying “merci”. I did talk to her the whole time as I did not want her thinking I was a bad person trying to take advantage of her, but I hoped that she did want to cross that particular road!
Tomorrow we head to St Emilion, 115 km scheduled! Hopefully we have maps tomorrow.