Day 28: Populonia to Elba Island

Isola d’Elba was our destination today, sometimes better known as the island Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled to for 10 months.

We only have three nights here.

Elba Island is the largest of seven islands in the Tuscan Archipelago, 16 km offshore from Piombino where we rode 11 km to hop on the ferry.

With a total size of 224 km2, Elba is the third largest island in Italy (Sardinia and Sicily are larger). The population is around 32,000 people.

One of our first photos on the island.

Getting to the ferry we left our accomodation early. It was only 11 km along a busy road, that only got busier the closer we got to Piombino.

We were able to get on an earlier ferry than I had prepaid for which was great. We sat on the top deck to maximise our fresh air and views.

Colourful Moby ferry. Multiple ferry operators leave Piombino for Elba Island and Corsica.
This made me laugh. I’m a huge fan of both Vikings and The Last Kingdom. I was looking around for Ragnar and Uhtred to no avail. Guess they did die back circa 900’s. I am intrigued by Viking shoe covers though….

Many beautiful views on the crossing.

The capital, Portoferraio, where we were to dock.

Getting closer

I had noted how hilly the island appeared. Mind you, I knew that already as I had mapped our two day routes out, but still you do look and think ‘hmm’.

We disembarked quickly as our bikes were at the front of the cargo area, along with motorbikes, and an array of vehicles including buses, trucks and campervans.

We had no intention of staying in the busy centre, and headed off towards the Tuscan Archipelago National Park.

First beach stop though was in Portoferraio. There are over 80 beaches in the island, some pebbles, some sand. All are renowned for their clear turquoise waters.

Looking to the east
Looking to the west

We climbed and descended, climbed and descended, repeat…the views were awesome.

Cactus carving seems to be a thing.

We had another 20 km mapped out that included going past our accomodation in Lido (yes another Lido in the same week !).

We are staying at L’Europa camping village, overlooking the bay of Lido di Capoliveri, on the southern side of the island, close to both Capoliveri and Porto Azzuro.

It is a beautiful spot, surrounded by what they describe as typical Mediterranean scrubland, but I have noted numerous eucalyptus trees!

We have a two bedroom cabin, with a deck, kitchen and it is ideal.

Anyhow, we popped in as it was 11.40 am but check in was 4 pm, just in the off chance we could drop some gear off. As our room had been cleaned and prepared, we could check in.

After that, we decided to spend the rest of the day chilling. It’s been a vey physical week with lots of climbing in hit temperatures. We have now ridden over 2,200 km and 20,000 metres climbing.

We did hop on the bikes though with empty packs to do a smash and grab at the local Coop supermarket, 1.3 km down the road.

It was a smash and grab as the siesta was kicking in 15 minutes after we got there. I was the second last customer out the door!

Off to the beach and we finally got to wear our bathers and have a swim in the cool but inviting waters.

A super popular beach where many rent a space and deck chair, we were renegades and just through a towel down in the pub,I’d area.

That hill in the background we are heading around tomorrow. Around hopefully not up!

After cooking dinner, we headed back to the beach which was fairly quiet now. All the rent a chair/umbrella areas had closed up.

We walked down the end of the beach and noted this. It goes back a fair way. Would love to know the story behind this.

Then there were these two, not far from the grated cave. I will need to do some research.

I do love these final two photos, nice silhouettes.

Today’s routes and climbing. A shorter day with only 35 km ridden, 400 m ascent. A rest day by our standards.

Tomorrow we have a hilly day planned and hope to set off early to miss best and traffic, if that is possible!

Thanks for reading.

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