Day 5: Aberystwyth to Corwen

The weather was cool and blowing a gale when we awoke. We had beautiful harbour views and amazing long, bay windows to enjoy the view.

I can recommend the Glenrowan Hotel for cyclists. We had cleaned our filthy bikes up before checking in, and they allowed the bikes in our room. The bathroom was huge and could easily hold multiple bikes without issue.

We had a big bowl of porridge and fruit for breakfast and headed off. We were surprised just how cool and breezy it was.

After a flat one km or so, we entered a nasty one km steep climb up last the Aberystwyth University. With cold legs, lungs and a racing heart, the body did protest greatly, so I walked the second half.

The ride levelled out with ups and downs, and the first of the rain showers hit us. So we stopped in a lay by and popped our booties on.

You can guarantee when you do that, it will stop raining. Looking forward, the rain stopped!

Looking north, it flattened along the coast, and this picture is looking towards Aberdovey, at the mouth of the Dovey river.

We had noticed signs re an osprey project, then saw this metal art work, and stopped to look at it.

Whilst there we got chatting to Shaun and Jason, who were from Cardiff and off on a day trip to the Snowdonia’s.

We headed back in the road in the search for coffee, hoping the town of Machynnlleth would have something open on a Sunday morning.

Machynlleth is a market town in the Dyfi Valley, and the seat of Owain Glyndwr’s Welsh Parliament in 1404, thereby claiming to be the ancient capital of Wales. Owain was the last native born Welshman to hold the title Prince of Wales.

There was a pub open, and we were able to grab a coffee, sitting outside pondering whether to out the rain jacket back on.

I reckon the rain jackets were on/ off 25-30 times today. Put them on, rains, climb a hill, get too hot, take them off. Repeat.

This is a stolen photo showing the town clock, which was significant covered by scaffolding due to refurbishment works. It looked to be the nicest structure in town.

We headed off onto quieter rural roads and crossed this bridge, smiling at the life buoy. It was quite shallow, but fast flowing. I am sure older kids who can swim competently would have some fun here.

This section of the ride was very pleasant, passing through Llanwrin, Mathafam, Cemmaes Road, Cemmaes, Aberangell and Mailwyd.

It was a fairly quiet road, except around the shooting range. It seemed very active in the range, with the sound of gunshot echoing around.

It was good that they sponsor the Air Ambulance.

The hardest task of the day way just ahead. We knew it was a tough one. It started to rain again, and we could see waterfalls high in the hills.

This is our climbing graph for the day. You can see that we had gradually climbed from about the 20 km mark to 47 km. Then there is that brute of a chapel spire.

We did not find out until later that this hill had a name, Bwlch Y Groes…or Hellfire Pass.

On the upside, it did offer brilliant views of the surrounding Welsh countryside of the Aran mountains. On the flipside, it was a seriously difficult and brutal climb on a loaded bike.

The road is sealed, but narrow with no verge. It hits a maximum of 25% through some of the ramps. It is regarded as one of the steepest, toughest and most spectacular climbs in the country and regarded as a truly definitive climb.

It was used between and after the wars by the Austin Motor Company and the Standard Triumph Motor Company to test prototype cars and their performance during hill climbing.

Heading up here was the first warning sign and there is me peddling along to start the serious stuff some few hundred metres ahead.

Well I lasted 300 metres or so, and got off the bike. There were a few issues.

I need space climbing so I can weave a little. With the heavy flow of traffic this was impossible.

Then there was the headwind, it was fierce.

The cars back up on a climb with no verge, and with lots of cars also descending you can frustrate drivers ( mind you, the Welsh drivers have been friendly and fantastic). You stop to let them pass, but climbing is super hard to start again on a slope once stopped.

With an imminent total knee replacement now scheduled, recovering open heart surgery and let’s face it, I did not have the strength nor skill to ride up this. I made the safe decision and walked.

Taking the next few photos was super hard. Holding the bike on the slope, in the wind, without it falling over took all my strength. Pushing the bike up is also very hard.

I swung back to snap this one of Tony. He lasted about another 20 metres. You can see the lack of space on the road.

I did get back on the bike for a few short sections but walked the majority. A camper van stopped and asked if I would like a lift. I immediately said “yes” but then changed my mind as I knew I’d be disappointed to not do this under my own steam.

At the top looking back down the valley you can see the road to the left.

The top

Once at the top Tony took a video he later put onto social media. Near the end of the video there was a toot from two motor cyclists. Amazingly it was Shaun and Jason whom we had met earlier in the day.

Descending was pleasant. We liked these old stone walls.

The views opened up, and we looked forward to Cross Foxes, a pub located at a busy road junction part way through the descent.

Boom, and here we are. We got a table outside, and do you note something? It is sunny!! It had been slow progress to this point and we felt we would be getting to Corwen at dinner time!

The post lunch ride was totally different. It was downhill for a while, then a series of uphills, and then undulating for the rest of the ride. We made up some time as we were able to ride at a faster pace.

Some of the views.

This is Lake Bala. To the left, there are people swimming in the lake. there was a campground full of campers.

Bala Lake was the largest natural body of water in Wales before its level was raised to provide water for the Ellesmere Canal. It lies between the Aran and Arenig mountains at the fringes of Snowdonia National Park.

Getting closer to,our destination we enjoyed this forest.

Stopping to photograph this bridge, that we then rode over.

Looking down towards Corwen, we were ready to finish.

Nearly there!

Corwen stands on the banks of the River Dee beneath the Berwyn mountains. There is a man standing in the river fishing.

After 114 km and 1327 m climbing, we arrived at the home of Alan and Sue. We have not seen them since they visited Australia around 2015. We had ridden Lands End to John O’Groats with Alan in 2013.

I did not write the blog last night as we chatted. Instead I got up before 5 am, whilst the house sleeps, to do the blog. It is now 7.15 am, and the house is still quiet.

We have our first and only scheduled rest day today. The day is looking beautiful.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 4: Builth Wells to Aberystwyth

Following on from last nights Storm Antoni warning, we were in a conundrum as to what to do. Safety is paramount.

Options included getting the train to Shrewsbury, staying there, or getting a second train to Aberystwyth from Shrewsbury.

Our friend Graeme rang us with his thoughts and he suggested a taxi to Rhayader and riding from there.

We went down to breakfast at 7.30 am still unsure. There was a lady cyclist from Germany there pouring over train time tables. We chatted and she was also unsure as to what to do.

The guy in the corner said it was going to hail today. I jokingly told him we did not need that kind of negativity, laughing. He laughed and said it was a typical Welsh summer.

The owners of the accomodation said the only taxi was a sedan.

We has a very yummy breakfast and went outside and looked around. We rechecked the rain radar, wind forecasts and thought we would just go for it. Whilst it was likely to be wet, for the majority the wind would not be an issue.

Heading out of Builth Wells past the random cow, we followed the river. Park Run was setting up for the diehards.

The first two km was pleasant following a bike path adjacent to the river. Then the climbs started.

Down one hill and looking up to the next short climb
We were predominantly in an agricultural area except for this church.

When Graeme suggested we bypass the first part of todays ride it was partly because of this ‘cycle path’ being unsealed, and of course, the recent rain, that was continuing to fall.

When we started, it looked like this. Ok, we could cope with that. But then it went into a 2 km climb and the puddles dominated.

It is hard to tell how deep the puddles are, unless Tony is ahead of you 🤣🙈 but then he coped better than me, and pulled clear.

I really thought I would end up on my side, soaked. However, proud to say I got through this 5 km quagmire unscathed, bar my filthy legs and bike.

Tony managed to snap me going through one. There was one super deep puddle. The water went up to my ankles as I peddled through.

There were pleasant views, and this looked like a pretty fancy home.

We popped out at this village, and I did not write down the name. From the signpost, it appears to have many walks in the area.

Tony managed to be considerably cleaner than me on his legs. He grabbed his drink bottle and squirted water over our disc brakes to clean them.

On the next sets of climbs, we were on sealed single track, with the occasional house or farm. I really liked the ferns on the stone wall.

We stopped here, as we thought this was a very pleasant sight by the river, with sheep grazing. Sheep seem to freely roam these parts.

Another flash home.

We turned right to ride through the Elan valley. We arrived at the Elan Village looking for a toilet and food, as we thought the visitor centre looked closed as we rode past.

I went up to the Elan Valley Lodge to see if we could purchase a drink. I was told “No, this is a private lodge”.

The village and reservoirs were designed by the architect Herbert Tudor Buckland as part of the scheme, and the village is the only purpose built model village in Wales.

Call me ignorant, but the village seemed to me to be a string of building all in a row. Maybe I missed something.

Heading back out across the river, there are these old bridges.

The Elan River, looking south from the bridge

As we rode past the visitor centre, the buildings we presumed to be closed, were in fact, not in use. We needed to ride a farther 300 metres or so past the entrance. We found our food and coffee!

The Elan Valley contains four dams along the Elan River.

It is also famous for its picturesque scenery. Over 80% of the valley is designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and a popular cycle trail, the Elan Valley Trail, makes a loop from Rhayader around the reservoirs.

In between dams we were passed by these two cyclists. We did laugh at how keen one was for this photo, standing in the water with his bike.

We noted many trees had been cut down. Carvings had been done on numerous.

Back to the dams….

The dam is overflowing here, going under the lovely bridge.
The road goes up, then up a bit more to the junction. You can see further down the valley.
Eek, via mountain road …hmmm

As it turned out the mountain must have been more hill like, but the views were outstanding here. The area reminded us very much of Scotland.

We descended down to that white dot of a house

This area was interesting, with many km of mining residue on both sides of the road. Lead mining used to be very prevalent in the region. Piles of waste are dumped everywhere. Old buildings are all destroyed, looking like there had been fires within?

Oh here I am again, climbing, with Tony waiting. Today there were six climbs that had pinches over 20%. Tony rode each of them. I walked those pinches! No way can I do 20% even without gear on my bike.

At the top of this climb was “the arch” a former gateway to a local estate. But marking the start/finish of the Elan Valley

Next stop was Devils Bridge – unique in that there are three separate bridges, each one built upon the previous bridge. The most recent was an iron bridge erected above the older arches in 1901. The original bridge is medieval and the second was built in 1753.

The name Devils Bridge was named reportedly after an old woman lost her cow and saw it grazing on the other side of the river. The Devil appeared and agreed to build a bridge in return for the soul of the first living thing to cross it. When the bridge was finished, the old woman threw a crust of bread over the river, which her dog crossed to retrieve, thus becoming the first living thing to cross it. The devil was left with only the soul of the dog.

Not taken today, I’ve stolen this one, but showing the three bridges.
Standing on top of Devils Bridge, looking down, walkers head down to admire the bridge and river.

During the summer a narrow guage railway (The Vale of Rheidol) runs 19 km from Aberystwyth to Devils Bridge. The railway opened in 1902. Since 1989 it is operated and maintained by a charity group.

After all our climbing, we needed to get back to sea level. We did this on a cycle trail down this narrow road. The skies are lifting, and the rain has stopped.

It was super steep. My hands ached from squeezing the brakes so hard. There were pitches in excess of 25%.

On a steep descent section, we needed to give way to the train heading back to Aberystwyth.

There was about another 10 km before arriving in Aberystwyth, and it was blowing a gale on the waterfront. It was a super strong headwind with gusts.

Aberystwyth, a university town, is situated on Cardigan Bay on the west coast of Wales. A long seafront with a pier stretches from Constitution Hill at the north end of the Promenade to the harbour at the south.

The beach is divided by the ruined Aberystwyth castle (1277) that was destroyed by Oliver Cromwell in 1649.

Part of the remains. Look at the angle of the tree limbs. It is super windy.
What the castle looked like way back,when.

Our final stint was to head down the far end of the waterfront to the coloured buildings. Our accomodation is in one of those. The tide is low, with substantial exposed rock.

Nearly at our accomodation looking back towards the castle ruins

When we arrived at our accomodation, the sun came out. Of course!

The beach over the road from the hotel
Waterfront sea view looking towards the Republic of Ireland, with the Irish Sea in between. We arrive in Ireland on Wednesday.

Today was tough (95 km and 1385m ascent). Yesterday was tough too. It rained today for about 90% of the ride. Just consistent mizzle and drizzle interspersed with some heavier showers.

We did get a bit cold there for a while thinking about warmer clothes in our bags. We could have stopped but did not fancy stripping off in the rain.

The challenges today were definitely the 5 km of dirt and mud. I found that super challenging.

We had six climbs with over 20% but got through them each in our own way.

The views scored highly!

Thanks to Graeme for this route. He did this with his daughter Matilda only a few weeks ago, also staying in this hotel. Great recommendation.

Tomorrow is another day. It is another biggie with 115 km planned and about 1500m climbing. I’m not even checking the weather tonight. I tend to wake by 5 am so I will do it then.

Thanks for reading, I’m going to get some shut eye now. 😊❣️

Day 2: Thames Head to Monmouth

We were awake by 5.30 am, but breakfast was not until 8 am 🙈😳 The bikes were packed and ready to go and at 8 am we presented ourselves.

Whilst waiting for our order, a couple from Chicago turned up. We had spoken with them the previous day. They are walking the Thames Path to London and were starting today.

The lady busily chopped raw onion, added sliced pancetta, and sliced a 1 kg block of cheese, making bread rolls for the day. I did wonder how long the left over cheese and pancetta would last in her backpack en route to London.

I’m being a total sticky beak here, but somewhat bemused and curious re the cheese and meat, let alone carrying a large partial.lt cut onion in your back pack.

We were on the road by 8.35 and the first 12 km or so was on the very busy Bath Road. I was certainly pleased to reach Tetbury.

Tetbury is the village location of King Charles III private residence, Highgrove House, although legally, I think it is actually now owned by the new Prince of Wales via the Duchy of Cornwall.

The town has a history over 1300 years, since 681, when King Ethelred of Mercia gifted the land to an Abbott.

The Snooty Fox, a pub in town, great name.

Some of the town buildings including the old market square, Cotswold stone buildings and Llamas in Pyjamas 🤣

Nice old church entrance

Leaving Tetbury we were riding along farming lanes connecting villages. The one below is around the rear boundary of Highgrove land.

The stone walls have been incredibly well constructed. They are all dry and works of art.

In the village of Leighterton is St Andrew’s, a thirteenth century parish church. I like the timber clad belfrey with its shingle roof. The church has a slate roof.

More agricultural views. It makes for pleasant riding, despite the continual up and down slopes and infrequent cow pats on the road (one of the reasons our drink bottles have enclosed lids).

Lovely forests and distant views towards Wales. Riding laneways like the one below are great, but you always need to be wary as this is quite narrow and cars pass with difficulty.

It was a hilly ride today, climbing around 900 metres. Here I am near the top of yet another climb. Most of the rural climbs were upwards of 12%, which is more than enough with the extra gear on the bike.

You can see Wales now in the background. Just out of view on the left is the Severn bridge, where we will cross into Wales.

Another interesting town, but we really busted our boilers here. Our mapping took us up the seeming shortest route to the Main Street, with a nasty 15-16% climb up Ludgate Hill.

I was hoping I did not need to give way at the top as I need a metre or so of flat to be safe in removing feet from the cleats to give way ( versus falling over)! Fortunately no cars and I was ok.

The Main Street half way up from Ludgate Hill junction

A series of super narrow lanes ensued. These are barely one car wide. If a car comes either way you need to either get into the bushes or move forward hoping to find a lane access into a farm.

Chunks of our route today were on the Avon Cycle Way which is an 85 mile circular route around Bristol. We were on parts of the northern section.

This laneway was a bit of a goat track. You can see the Severn bridge to the left with its white tall towers. Behind the crane is the Thornbury parish church.

Thornbury is quite pretty. I liked this regal flower display.

Thornbury Castle is a Tudor structure commenced in 1511. The castle was confiscated by King Henry Viii who stayed there for ten days with Anne Boleyn in 1535. The castle fell into disprepair after the English Civil War, but was renovated in 1824 and now serves as a hotel and restaurant.

I was fortunate to have stayed in the Castle in 2007 for two nights so passing by today was to admire the building only, as this was not to be our destination tonight.

The Parish church of Saint Mary started in 1340 with latter major additions. The church is the resting place of the entrails of Jasper Tudor, uncle and mentor to the young Henry Tudor, later Henry VII of England.

We were hungry but we pushed on. The sky was quite dark in patches, and rain was forecast.

As we crossed the Severn river and entered Wales, it started raining. The river is the longest in Great Britain at around 354 km in length. It is tidal here, and quite muddy.

Heading into Wales

We stopped to put our rain jackets and booties on after exiting a narrow laneway, and sat under a rail tunnel.

Looking down the laneway
Tony coming down the laneway
Colourful graffiti
Where we sat.

Chepstow, is the first major town we entered in Wales, adjacent to the border with Gloucestershire, England. It is located on the tidal River Wye.

We stopped at a small supermarket on the busy road versus heading into the town, as the rain motivated us to keep moving. Lunch was a fresh bread roll with a banana in it.

We passed the Chepstow race course. There were cars everywhere, including a flea market in one car park. Families were heading down with their children.

A small section of the racecourse marquees

Wye Valley, is an area of outstanding natural beauty, running along the border between England and Wales here. We followed the valley for the rest of our ride today. Tintern Abbey is a site that encourages you to stop and stare.

Tintern Abbey was built by Walter de Clare, Lord of Chepstow, in 1131. It was the first Cistercian foundation in Wales, and only the second in Britain. It fell into ruin after the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1536(good old King Henry VIII!), treasures were removed, lead from the roof was sold, and the building decay began.

Over 70,000 visitors year visit the abbey – and this is also my third visit (2007, 2013)

Old adjacent ruins

Continuing on we followed the Wye River as it meandered along the picturesque Wye Valley.

Eventually we arrived in Monmouth which is situated where the River Monnow joins the River Wye. The town was the site of a small Roman fort and became established after Monmouth Castle was constructed in 1067.

Crossing the first bridge, looking at a local boys school
Signage in dual languages

This is an interesting statue of Charles Rolls, as in Rolls Royce. Aside from that venture, he was an aviation pioneer and a cyclist, having captained Cambridge University cycling club. Despite a great future he was killed at the age of 32 in his plane during a display. He was the first Briton to be killed in an aeronautics, accident, and the 11th internationally.

Agincourt Square with our hotel in the background.
Local military museum adjacent to the castle

Monmouth castle was the birthplace of King Henry V in 1396 is now in ruins. There is a statue of Henry V in town. Sadly not much remains of the former stronghold of Henry IV.

Another old church….

Our accomodation is here tonight. The reception lady has been super helpful and our bikes are stored in their ‘bike shed’ under lock and key.

A solid day on the bike with a doubling of the climbing to gear us up for more tomorrow. We are weary tonight and looking forward to a good sleep.

Thanks for reading 😳❣️

Day 3: Monmouth to Builth Wells

A tough day riding today in trying conditions (head winds and never ending climbs), plus a spill from the bike. However, the ride was great overall, great route, towns and scenery. 94 km and 1600 metres climbing with a loaded bike is challenging but we did it. Knowing you got through the day is always satisfying but we’re tired now,

Leaving Monmouth we crossed the Morrow river passing under this famous gate tower, The bridge was believed to have been built around 1272 to replace a Norman timber bridge.

It is the only remaining fortified river bridge in Great Britain with its gate tower standing on the bridge.

We rode past two interesting gate cottages. It makes you wonder what the main house is like.

This one appears to be occupied
This one is a abandoned. A renovators delight!

The rural scenery was very pleasant and green.

A memorial water fountain, no longer used, dedicated to a local citizen from the 1800’s.

I particularly liked this vista, across the paddocks, to the nicely shaped church. A jigsaw puzzle picture.

Today was all about climbs. Lots of them. The graph does not show all the individual smaller climbs.

The third major climb at around the 20 km point, my chain dropped as I climbed started to climb a steeper section (when I changed rings) and that meant I had no ability to pedal, nor could I get my feet\ shoes out of the cleats quick enough.

So on a busy road, in slow motion, over I went.

The front bag burst open, stuff went everywhere, I was on my side and picked myself up as quickly as I could. My bum and hip took most of the hit, my knee just a couple of small grazes made to look worse due to the blood thinners I take.

I have stiffened tonight though 😳

I rolled back down the hill to start it again, resting at The Red Heart.

Continuing on, the fields are wide and open, still super green.

The climbs keep appearing.

The first major town today was Abergavenny. Situated at the confluence of the River Usk and a tributary stream, the Gavenny. It is surrounded by mountains and hills, including the Sugar Loaf. It is known as a gateway to the Brecon Beacons National Park.

The view as we descended into Abergavenny
Pretty flowers

We stopped outside a bakery for refreshments. As we consumed our goods, we met Vernon and Jill from Derbyshire. They have cycled toured in the last and were curious about our trip.

They shared photos of their grandson Leon Atkinson who currently has four National (UK) age championships to his name in four events. A name to watch out for in the future.

Leaving town, waiting for Tony while he takes this photo.

Blackberries are plentiful and Tony sampled some today, and said they were really nice.

More climbs, more views.

I’m not sure if these are llamas or alpacas, I always get confused. The black one intrigued as as when we talked to him, he stopped chewing. When we stopped he would chew. Maybe he is a she…🤣

All the main towns today were at the bottom of descents, meaning there were tough climbs out of each town.

This view is just above Crickhowell, my favourite town today.

Crickhowell lies on the River Usk, on the edge of the Black Mountains. it is the birth place of Roddy Llewllyn, better known as Sir Roderic Llewellyn, 5th Baronet – aka Princess Margaret’s playboy back in the 70’s.

We stopped for lunch here, a fresh baguette with a fresh banana.

Squinting…

The old castle was initially a motte and bailey castle built from around 1121. It was damaged badly in the 1400’s by the last born Prince of Wales, Owain Glyndwyr.

The town was vibrant, and many buildings had colourful flower displays.

Leaving town we crossed the river, and followed a canal.

River Usk
The muddy canal

There were nice forests and more churches.

llanfrynach St Brynach churchyard

Our route took us along the Brecon canal, apparently voted Britains prettiest canal.

It was lovely riding the two miles along here. It was a flat gravel path. It was busy with people walking their dogs.

Through the gate and past the lock
We were heading towards the Brecon basin
A canal boat

In the town of Brecon the canal becomes a basin. You can hire a boat here for one hour, 40 pounds.

We did not stop in Brecon. We weaved our way around the town to head back into the hills.

A statue of Wellington

More cute churches and fields.

We were quite tired by now, but climbing was not done with us yet. As we started to climb, there was a warning sign stating the climb was 16%. It was also 2 km in length.

Per our computer data we could see that the super steep section was for maybe 500 metres or so. I walked! I pushed the bike up and it got to 20.4%

As I rounded a bend, Tony was also walking. It is actually hard pushing your bike with gear up such a steep hill. The knee did complain.

At the top, this was the warning sign for cars descending.

Adjacent was a military firing range. The red flags were flying, the sheep oblivious. These sheep are fenced, but there were many others wandering around the roadside.

The vegetation had changed considerably. It was very open and bare. Exposed to the headwinds, making the challenge harder.

After the steeper section, we were able to continue climbing on our bikes. Here I am near the top.

As we rested, we met a local mtb rider John (known to his friends as ‘the pope’). We were at a junction with what seemed to be a farm road and the main road. John had come off the farm road.

Talking to him he imparted his local knowledge and suggested we get off the main road, and head to Builth Wells by this alternative route. It is always great to chat to other cyclists.

He assured us it was all downhill.

Well it was mainly downhill bar the uphill bits 🤣🤣 However, what goes up, must go down, and Builth Wells like every other town today, is at the bottom of a big hill.

These are some views along the alternative route.

We arrived at our accomodation in town, and after showering and laundering headed off to search for dinner and check out the town.

Builth Wells at the confluence of the rivers Wye and Irfon – in the upper part of the Wye Valley.

Random bull
Sad demise for an otherwise nice church. Junk everywhere including bikes.

Tomorrow a storm weather warning has been issued, Storm Antoni, with winds of up to 55 mph, plus lots of rain. We will reassess tomorrow but a train is an option. We are scheduled to climb over 1500 m again and that would be dangerous on a bike in a storm.

Anyway, let’s see what tomorrow brings.