Day 11: Imabari to Saijo via the hinterland

The rain had stopped. It was overcast and coolish, but the forecast looked ok.

We had a filling breakfast at the hotel. Our ride as today was not a long ride (68 km). It was the second consecutive shorter ride before our three final tougher days.

The northern section of Shikoku is quite populated and we could have had a much shorter ride to Saijo if we’d proceeded directly. Saijo was lining us up to head into Oboke Gorge tomorrow.

So to make more of the day we headed inland towards Matsuyama, up in the hills. the Towel Museum had a very striking billboard.

The clouds were hanging low over the surrounding mountains.

All around Shikoku roads, there have been signs like this one. Whilst this sign mentions an onsen, others might have a major JR (Japan Rail) station, or indicate a particular cycling route.

We started climbing. The first climb was about 5.5 km long, with 185 m ascent. It was a comfortable climb along a very green valley.

Plenty of rice fields and other crops.

The road was narrow, but there was minimal traffic being Sunday.

The top of the climb did not have a view due to the dense vegetation. As we descended we could see settlements.

Only 1 km into our second climb this large building appeared.

This is the famous Towel Museum. This region of Shikoku is Japan’s capital for towel manufacturing with in excess of 200 towel manufacturers.

We visited the cafe and shop, buying three small items to take home to my grandchildren. I am sure they would all prefer these giraffes though!

Back on the road we finished the climb and again descended. In places it looked like it was raining higher up in the mountains and hills.

We took a wrong turn and found this red crane.

Saijo is decent sized city of around 105,000 and we headed into the city around the water front where there are a series of small canals, with small homes and agricultural activities adjacent.

It was about 1.30 pm and we’d not eaten since breakfast. We found our favourite supermarket, Halows.

Today we took turns to go in and choose some food to eat. This was my choice. It was very nice, and cost about $11. Very cheap.

Our accomodation was a bit out of the city and we headed off turning left to follow this river.

Our Hammerhead computer map insisted we were at our destination, but none of the houses seemed to look like the one I’d booked. I walked up one driveway, but nope, not that one.

A vehicle pulled up and a man jumped out. I presumed he was from our accomodation, but no, he was a neighbour and had seen me wander up the driveway.

He walked us up the next driveway, we were only one house away!

It’s a great house, that we have to ourself. We have washed our clothes and it’s out drying.

Rear view of the house
Rear garden

This is Toshi, our knight in shining armour. He asked for a photo so we took one of him too. He’s a fascinating chap, speaking English amazingly well.

Transpires he is a retired University Professor, specialising in pharmacology and cancer interactions. Guess where we are having dinner tonight? Toshi’s! He is picking us up at 6-ish!

A random meeting but we are blown away that he would invite two strangers to his home.

So what was a fill in day, has become another highlight, just like that. This is one of the beautiful aspects of cycle touring. People are curious about what you are doing, and always supportive.

Toshi quoted Steve Jobs, Stay hungry, stay foolish. It is an interesting quote, and pertinent. Never be satisfied, push yourself (stay hungry). Keep trying things people say cannot be done (stay foolish).

I think we’re in for an interesting evening.

Thanks for reading, smile on 😊❣️

Day 10: Seto Inland Sea islands to Imabari

We had a couple of issues to contend with today. The weather and the fact that I’d been a klutz and left my reading glasses at Atsuko’s on Onomichi Island ( and we were at Mitarai on Osaki Shimojima Island).

There was nowhere around to grab any breakfast, so we got up early and packed our bikes as it was not yet raining.

Lucky we were awake. Around Shikoku many towns have loud speakers in the streets that play mechanised music on the hour, and in Mitarai it started at 6 am. The loud speaker was very close to our open window and it was super loud.

Leaving Mitarai, it was very quiet.the loudspeaker at 6 am had not roused the village.

The island views were not as clear, with lower levels of cloud and haze.

We rode the 8 km to the next island ferry terminal of Okamura. We were there by 7 am but needed to wait patiently as the next ferry was 8.30 am. We were able to sit inside the small terminal.

Arriving at the Munakata terminal on Omishima Island, Atsuko was waiting for us on the pontoon with my glasses. She had also been there the previous night at 7 pm in case we turned up. Feeling guilty but grateful for her kindness. ❣️

The change in plans gave us the opportunity to ride a portion of the island we’d not seen. It was still not raining, but the skies were threatening.

At the 30 km mark to go, the rain bucketed down. The camera stayed well tucked away. We got wet and just had to get in with it. We had 30 km left to go, so when we arrived in central Imabari were pleased to find our hotel easily.

It was 12.30 pm. We were wet and a bit cold as the temperature was lower. Check in was strictly 3 pm, but they provided an area inside to clean our bikes, gave us a bottle of water and somewhere to sit.

We actually sat on the other side of the divider on comfortable couches. This is where our bikes were cleaned.

The JR Clements Hotel is a bike hotel. Here they are in our room, being used as clothes racks! The staff did relent at 2.30 pm and allowed us to our room where we washed some clothes and enjoyed our showers.

We grabbed umbrellas from reception and went for a walk through the city towards Imabari Castle. An interesting site, featuring a huge seawater moat averaging 60 metres in length, designed to neutralise arrows.

The high stone walls and moat are the only original features with modern reconstruction after previous damage and demolition.

I’ve seen a few of these crabs on his trip. A kind of land crab. Nice colours.

The return walk from the castle provided the days highlight. Lots of noise from these jubilant men as they carried this golden shrine.

There are two men with batons who are directing traffic to allow the progress.

As they came past us we watched with great interest. One of the seeming leaders, came up to us, and gave me a wooden token on a string, with a little bell attached.

He told me that it was a special day of celebration and they were heading to the castle.

We had a brief chat before he moved on but he told me ‘I was adorable!’ 🤣😝 I have reminded Tony of this a few times since 🤣

The perfect sized souvenir for bike touring, although I will wrap it so that the bell does not jiggle!

The final photo is this huge propellor from a ship acknowledging the cities role as a ship maker.

Only four cycling days left. Another easier day tomorrow of around 70 km before 3 big days!

Thanks for reading! Smile on 😊❣️

Day 9: Tobishima Kaido

We have spent two lovely nights on Omishima Island, at the home of Atsuko who lives in the village of Furudo. She has lived there for 9 years, moving down from Tokyo.

Her English is excellent, and she did live in Oregon, USA for six years, where she operated an art gallery selling lovely paintings by her uncle.

Our bikes were well looked after.

This was out sitting area, Japanese style.

We had a 14 km ride to the port to get the ferry. It was quite hilly with pinches over 9%.

We arrived with plenty of time to spare, learning how to operate the ferry ticket machine.

Great views from the ferry that took only 24 minutes to reach Okamura Island.

Looking back at the ferry as it departed to Imabari and we continued cycling.

The plan today was to ride the Tobishima Kaido, a cycling route across five islands. We did it twice, as rode around each island. 89 km and around 560m climbing.

The weather was brilliant. The views, just awful. We could not believe how brilliant our trip has been with outstanding scenery continuing.

There were citrus stalls on the road edge.

There were decorative tunnel entrances, keeping the citrus theme.

There were decorative bridge panels.

Many places had a rail system in place to transport goods up the slopes.

Tony found a nice viewing seat.

We had noted this on fruit trees the last few days. Paper bags tied on we think to protect fruit.

Informative signs were plentiful.

Shimo-Kamagari Island was the southern most island we reached, and it was there we decided to have lunch in the historic town of Sannose, which was an old port town famous as a stopover for Korean emissaries and their entourage when they travelled to Japan during the Edo period (1603-1867).

We found a small cafe open, and the entire menu was in hiragana. One of the ladies was able to use her phone to provide a very clear translation. I chose ‘fish bowl’. What I received was plentiful fresh sashimi over rice, plus the ubiquitous miso soup. It was very tasty.

Heading back we predominantly were on the Honshu side, which whilst nice, was not as stunning as the inland sea side.

The final island heading to our accomodation was sea side.

Tonight we are in Mitarai, another historic village. The narrow lanes and alleys are still lined with buildings that date back to an earlier age. it is a designated Historic Preservation District of Traditional architecture and more recently a Japan heritage site.

One particular street.

Our accomodation is an old hospital, but from the outside we were left a bit gobsmacked! Wondering what I’d booked. Inside it’s ok. It’s a mixed accomodation hostel, but we have our own room.

Accomodation was difficult to find in the area. Food was even harder tonight! We were told of one place that would be open between 5-8 pm. We found it but it looked closed. No signs, nothing to even indicate it was a business. I noticed the door open just a tad.

An older man appeared and ushered us in. We were told ‘noodles’, so we just nodded and sat down. Noodles appeared, very spicy but figured that was all on offer in town tonight!

Wandering around town after our meal, we searched for a vending machine to grab a drink and took a few snaps along our way.

Tomorrow we head back to Okamura Island to ferry to Imabari, and possibly navigate around the first island on the Shimanami kaido. The weather forecast for tomorrow is rain. We are watching the radar and hoping the band slides a higher above Shikoku ❣️

Tomorrow was a bit of a flex day, nearest thing that resembles a so called rest day, so we possibly could minimise our weather exposure if necessary.

We will see what tomorrow brings….tomorrow.

Thanks for reading. Smile on 😊❣️

Day 8: Shimanami Island hopping

When life gives you lemons, ride on. The plan today was to circumnavigate three Seto Inland Sea islands, Ikuchi, Innoshima and Mukaishima.

This would involve crossing bridges on the Shimanami Kaido six times.You can see below the six bridge climbs, and another blip thrown in for good measure.

The climbs to the bridge have been well engineered with each access path around 1.1 km long and climb averages of around 3.1-3.4 per cent.

The view from the bridge connecting Omishima and Ikuchi islands showed the promise of another brilliant day. It was about 7.45 am when this photo was taken.

On each bridge there has been information on each bridge and the Shimanami Kaido.

The lemon comment and photo explanation. Ikuchi Island is known as the lemon island of Japan, with a mild climate and low annual rainfall, combined with their sloping terrain ensures the lemons receive constant sunlight creating a perfect citrus growing environment. Ikuchi is the top producer of lemons in Japan with around 600 orchards.

The island is not that big, so that is a huge concentration of lemon orchards.

The lemon statue was at the resting spot below, which provided a great view of the bridge we had just crossed.

Whilst I waited for Tony at out first pit stop, I took a better look at this vending machine. Stunned female cyclist, but on the front, information that the proceeds help to prevent cyclists paying a toll to use the bridges.

Interesting. We had noted the motor cycles (125cc and below can use the cycling lane) pay a toll of 50 yen per bridge. Money goes into a shute at the end.

Searching for coffee, we held out a glimmer of hope at Sunset Beach where there were heaps of bicycles set up to be rented.

Sunset Beach was quite nice. It had just been raked over with piles of sea debris being collected in a small truck.

No coffee. I suspect we were a bit early. I did find this character though.

Over the road was this old bus that had seen better days.

Making our way onto the bridge between Ikuchi and Innoshima.

This chap was interesting. We passed him on the road as he merrily roller bladed along, and did not think too much of it at the time.

However, as we headed back on our return route hours later, here he was a few bridges up still rollerblading. He appears to have done the kaido on rollerblades.

We could not pass the albino dinosaur without a quick snap.

The bridge between Innoshima and Mukaishima islands has the bike path under the vehicles. A totally seperate under structure.

Looking at the bridge from the side, you can make out the bike path below the vehicle route. Clever engineering again.

We were closing in on Ominichi, and passed this nice beach, then red bridge.

Ominichi, to cross or not to cross? There were multiple ferry options but we decided this was close enough. There is a cable car going up to a viewing platform in this image.

One of the ferry options.

Lunchtime! We stopped at a larger supermarket named Halow. I went in and was blown away by the fish section and wish I’d brought the camera in.

I grabbed some nice strawberries and grapes, and had such a hard time choosing from the many options in the sushi area.

The choice of Japanese cooking items was massive and so many I’d like to take home, but obviously on a bike a bit of a no go, and I could see myself ending up on the Border Security show playing dumb like most of them do 🤣🤣

You could hardly miss this guy in a corner. It’s purpose and intent was unclear. But King Kong dominated.

Then the song Science Fiction from the Rocky Horror Picture Show got stuck in my head….”But he told us where we stand, then something went wrong, for Fay Wray and King King, they got caught in a celluloid jam…”

The islands continued, remembering there are around 3000.

A quiet narrow road, this is a two way road.

Finally after 88 plus km, back on Omishima Island for the night.

We have been truly lucky with the weather the last few days. The sunscreen has come out, and we both have farmer arms and tanned legs. My glove marks are hilarious. I have white hands, but half my fingers are very brown almost looking dirty. From the half fingerless gloves.

We leave here tomorrow riding about 14 km to catch a ferry and do most of the Tobishima Kaido, a lesser known cycle route around the islands.

Dinner tonight was a selection of sushi and sashimi as there are no restaurants around this village.

We are ready for bed. Thankyou for reading .

Smile on 😊❣️

Day 7 : Doteuchi to Furado

Brilliant day today. Superb. One photo summary!

The weather was warm and sunny. The wind left us alone most of the time. The views were beyond our expectations. The infrastructure amazing. We’re a bit sunburned. 92 very enjoyable km.

We predominantly followed the coastline today. The body of water on the map is the Seto Inland Sea, and it separates three of Japan’s main islands (Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushi). It serves as a waterway connecting the Pacific Ocean to the Sea of Japan, and contains over 3,000 islands.

Leaving our accomodation by 8 am we stopped to pull the camera out countless times. Let’s get started!

First stop just up the road was a breakwater with paved top and lovely views.

The scenery to our left as we headed towards Imabari.

We liked the ‘eyes’ on this boat.

Shrines are very common. We must have passed at least 50 or so today.

Just beautiful.

Having time to ‘kill’ today we took a few detours, including this one to Kamoike Beach. A really cute bay and inviting to swim.

The jut of land to the left is Cape Kajitori and we headed out there winging it. We certainly did not see any wildlife depicted on the board.

Shimanami kaido fast approached. What is the Shimanami kaido you ask?

it is a 70 km cycling road between Onomichi (Honshu) and Imabari (Shikoku).

It attracts cyclists globally to Japan due to its uniqueness. The cycle highway connects six islands Seto Sea via seven bridges.

I first learned of the route from this book.

In planning this trip it was determining what we could ride in addition to the 70 km. That’s when I discovered an official around Shikoku route and the mapping started to incorporate both.

Heading from the south, the first bridge is the most impressive. The Kurushima-Kaiyo bridge, which is 4 km long, opened in 1999. the worlds first three continuous suspension bridge. It crosses Kunshima Strait.

The cyclists circle up a ramp multiple times to gain the required height to access the bridge.

Here we’ve started the climb but are underneath it still. You can see a few spans.

Once on the bridge, this is the cyclists path.

Tony took a video for part of the first crossing.

Spectacular views to the left.

Clear signage.

Exiting the first bridge.

On the descent looking back towards Imabari.

My GPS data showing how the path descended.

Walkers can also use the pathway!

We wandered around the first island descent, with plans to do a small loop but an elderly man in his garden indicated a big NO as we went past his house, so we turned and headed back in search of food.

We found a place but it was mainly deep fried and neither needed or desired that. We would look for a Lawsons!

This more distant view of the first bridge gives you a bit more perspective of its length.

Tony found himself a comfy seat, reminding me of those baby seats.

Making our way to the second bridge more nice beaches.

The second bridge is Hakata-oshima an was built in 1988. It was the first bridge with box girder structure adopted!

More sea views! We rode around this island and climbed a hill and found a lovely rest spot, providing wonderful views to chill for a while. We were still well ahead of schedule time wise, and check in was not until 4 pm.

Tony’s bike looking snazzy.

As mentioned earlier, the signage is excellent. An example below for the next bridge crossing. On the road, there is a solid blue line painted next to the solid white line, indicating a cycle route.

We will cross this bridge tomorrow. We are staying on the island of Omishima tonight and tomorrow will cross to do a loop to Ominichi and return.

Shimanami kaido will rate in our top ten best ever rides. I can see a blog one day with my top five or ten.

I found it hard writing tonight as I was overwhelmed with so many scenic pictures. This region of Japan just keeps giving. 😊❣️

Thanks for reading and smile on 😊

Day 6: Uchiko to Doteuchi

Overnight, I received an email from Takahito with the two photos he took outside his shop yesterday. Thankyou Takahito 😊❣️

Today was to be a mixed bag. The first half was rural countryside, the second half urbanisation. I prefer the first half, but urbanisation is something hard to avoid cycle touring.

We had purchased some items for breakfast and headed off around 730 am. Our accomodation had a laneway at the side, and this is where we packed our bikes.

A conga line of school children passed by us, nodding politely. They were all extraordinarily well behaved. A teacher stood at the end of the laneway marking them off her check sheet.

The children walked in groups of four or five. Often the one at the front carried a flag.

We rolled down the hill and started what was going to be a shorter ride of about 67 km. The challenge would be a long climb and the busy city of Matsuyama. It was a cool 11c.

We started a short 3 km climb first through a narrow wooded valley. We passed through small villages with just a few homes and vegetable gardens.

The road narrowed.

The views backdown the valley are always worth the climb.

We ended up on a major road, and road a mixture of footpaths and open road. This bridge caught our eye reminding me of a longer wooden bridge over the Rhine River, between Stein (Switzerland) and Bad Sackingen (Germany).

Our longest climb of this trip was about to start. 11.2 km in length, average gradient of 3.8%. Here is our climbing graph. So we would gain 500 metres in the one climb.

We just pootled up and stopped several times for photos, conserving energy. We climbed through multiple lush valleys, with rivers alongside.

Another lovely home with their crop gardens.

Climbing you often wonder what the view will be like at the top. Great view of just how hilly and green Shikoku is.

The descent was far shorter, but steeper than the climb. It was exhilarating. We both commented that we would not fancy climbing up our descent.

Very soon Matsuyama was upon us. The largest city on Shikoku with a population in excess of 500,000. It is the capital of the Ehime prefecture.

We stopped and started heaps with red lights and crossings, and the plants at this house were very spectacular.

Our route took us right through this elongated indoor shopping strip stretches for over one km. I had a quick glance over 50 metres!

I walked into this small Japanese bakery. I do love looking at the different foods that are made and sold in other countries.

Leaving the mall we continued towards Matsuyama Castle which was first constructed in the late 1500’s. A bit like the story with Wakayama Castle, it has had significant portions rebuilt after damage over the centuries including the bombing of Matsuyama during WWII.

Once there, we realised we could not even push our bikes into the grounds, plus it was impossible to get a view in total from below. So I have ‘borrowed’ this one from Google giving a birds eye view!

Leaving the busier part of Matsuyama we headed for the coast. As we rode along the coastline, there were numerous man made harbours.

We started to feel excitement because for the next three days we will be out on some of the islands, and at this stage, the weather is looking good.

We are staying about 10 km north of Matsuyama in a small village Doteuchi that faces the Seto Inland Sea.

Our accomodation is a unit on the second floor. It is immaculate and well appointed. The bathroom and separate toilet have glass walls!

This is the view off the deck. The island to the right is Kashima.

After showering, putting on a load of laundry, walking to the supermarket to buy fresh supplies for a home made dinner, we headed up the sea front to the ferry terminal.

If we had a few spare hours, this could be a nice half day trip.

Heading back to the unit, fish flying high.

A local house being reroofed. No harnesses required here!

What a magnificent sunset to end the day.

Thanks for reading as we continue our cycle tour of Shikoku.

Smile on 😊❣️

Day 5: Takase to Uchiko

We awoke early, and it was not raining! However it sure was windy, per the forecast.

We had enjoyed our stay with Kenji who was a lovely, friendly, helpful guy. We also had the opportunity to meet the other guests. A couple from Paris, and two female friends from Germany.

Kenji had arranged our dinner the previous night from a local fishmonger, and it certainly was very fresh and tasty.

After bidding our farewells, we headed back across the Takase chinkabashi bridge. The Shimanto River would be the focus of our ride today, following its path through valleys heading to our destination Uchiko some 100 km to the north.

I think the submersible bridges are a great idea in areas susceptible to flooding but they are narrow. As we crossed, a car came up behind us and we stood by the edge to let is pass. I’m glad he held his line!

I found this video on the bridges that may be of interest.

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The river was flowing faster today, and was muddier, courtesy of the last few days heavy rain. Here are a few earlier shots of the Shimanto.

We thought this local attraction sign was well crafted.

Our first toilet stop was very scenic. Lush vegetation and a waterfall.

The roads varied today from narrow riverside, seemingly suitable for one lane, but in fact are two lanes, to national highway verges/‘pathways’.

The only hassle today was the wind. It was a very strong headwind and we both had some back tension, likely from holding the bike tight in the gusts. We carry Panadol!

Wind is crazy. The first few days we were heading south westerly, and the wind? South westerly of course, but maybe no more than 15 kmh. Today we headed north? The wind wanted to share our adventures and turned to the north, but more like 30 plus kmh. The forecast was up to 75 kmh gusts for the area.

But looking at the pictures, all looks serene!

An older man was tending his vegetable gardens. I love that aspect of cycle touring, watching people get about their day to day activities.

Proof that I occasionally sit on the front!!! 🤣🤣

Today we had over 4 km of tunnels, including our longest to date that was 1.92 km long. This is quite a new tunnel, with a great shared pathway. It is well lit, and is even brighter if you remove your cycling glasses!!

Features on the wall include regular signage indicating how far to each opening. There are regular SOS telephones and a few wider bays that a car could pull into.

We only had snacks for breakfast today and was keen to buy some solid food. Alas it was not here. But you could buy a beer in one of the vending machines.

More hills and rivers.

Tony noted this large map of Shikoku and we stopped to take a photo.

Then we saw a bike rack outside the business. The owner came out encouraging us to use his rack. I asked what he sold. One word had us. “Coffee”.

So we entered and this was at our table.

On the back wall this cute painting. I think it makes you smile 😊

We learned the owners name was Takahito. He was super friendly and chatty, telling us his father had established the business in 1987. His niece had done the drawings.

He showed us photos of some motorbike rides he’d done and was impressed that Tony used to sell Honda and Yamaha bikes.

When we left, he took some photos of us with our bikes in front of this dude. I explained how to find my email on this blog, so hoping he does and we can get a copy.

We took one with Takahito and me.

Arigato Takahito 😊

The stop at Takahito’s was very worthwhile. It was delightful to engage with him. We also had spare time. Check in was 5 pm. The headwinds had made slower progress but we were not fussed, just chugging away and preserving energy.

We continue to be amazed just how hilly and green Shikoku is.

Not all that glitters is gold. There are houses abandoned, seemingly beyond repair. What is interesting are the layers of straw under the old sheeting, presumably used as insulation.

Did you know we followed a river today?

Off the side of the road, there were so many waterfalls of various heights. I guess flowing more after the rain. We had ridden through many puddles today, and now with the wind, trees litter scattered, and a few rocks that had slidden down the slopes.

We arrived in Uchiko an hour early, but were let in. We are in hostel style accomodation tonight, with about 4 other guests here. Towels are not included! I needed to hand over 300 yen for two towels.

We have a room with a double bed, but there is a common roof and I can hear three men chatting. I hope they are quiet soon enough! I also hope I do not have one of my very audible nightmares otherwise they might have a night to remember!! 🤣🙈

At dinner we sat with an architect who lives near Mt Fuji. He is here to prepare plans for a public park over the road from the accomodation.

Wandering around the town there are such delights as below. Reminds me of someone….

The town of Uchiko became famous for the production of wax. Rich merchants lived in cream coloured houses that were rendered with a mix of wattle and daub mud walls.

This house is a few doors up from our accomodation and is rendered as described above.

This is our accomodation.

To summarise today….it was a fantastic rides and route. Despite the persistent headwind, we enjoyed riding alongside the Shimanto River for a good part of our 100 km today, through lush, green valleys with lots of waterfalls flowing.

Meeting Takahito invigorated us, as he was so positive and excited for what we were doing in his country and that he met us! He made our day. 😊❣️

Day 4: Matsubagawa to Takase

I slept restlessly listening to the rain and hoping it would all blow over. I played through a Plan B and a Plan C. I got up at. 4.45 am to check out the plausibility of B and C.

We had another extraordinarily good breakfast and got ready to leave. It was a steady drizzle.

Once the bikes were ready we headed out across the red bridge adjacent to the hotel for a quick squizz.

To the right.
To the left.

I noted this sign at the hotel, and could not agree more.

This is the ‘huge’ hotel sign we missed in yesterdays location confusion.

This sign led to our confusion, but all ended well and we had a good overnight stay, with two wonderful meals.

The rain was a heavy drizzle by now and we hoped that it did not deteriorate. The upside was that there was minimal wind and it was not cold. So getting wet was more tolerable.

The camera does not come out very often when it rains either, so less photos today.

We followed the Shimanto River from our accomodation for maybe 12 plus km. Here are a couple of photos. It is a pretty river, with lush vegetation.

We had over 2 km of tunnels again today, and this one was a bit of fun. for about half the length we had it to ourselves. I practised my best Freddy Mercury ‘ay-oh’ calls. They reverberated beautifully.

Hitting the coast it all looked a bit dismal.

This island has a shrine on it. Guess the pilgrims need a boat. In the photo you can just see the opening to the shrine path at water level.

Same island a bit further on.

This car and motorbike have been consumed by the creeper.

Today we stopped at a few Lawsons shops so I started calling the day Tour de Lawson. We had time to kill as the accomodation check in was 4 pm and we had a shorter day of about 77 km scheduled.

Lawsons have clean toilets, a wide variety of fresh food to eat, and this one had a coffee machine. It provided us shelter and we could watch some of the heavier rain despite the fact we were soaked.

Ride bikes, have fun, feel good!

Shimanto city arrived soon enough, another Lawsons to grab some food to take to our accomodation as it does not provide any food options, and is somewhat remote.

Red seems to be the favoured bridge colour. I must look into why.

In Shimanto City we were meant to turn right about 50 metres short of the bridge but decided to see what the road was like adjacent to the river. It was a great little road and we were able to follow it to our accomodation.

The full length of the Shimanto River is 196km. There are 47 submersible bridges. They are designed to withstand the forces of floods, which occur 3-4 times a year courtesy of typhoons.

A map showing some of the bridges

We had time to spare so decided to visit the first bridge. Curiously there was a security guard at the car park. There were about 6 cars there, in a car park that could take say a hundred.

As we rolled down to the bridge there was another security guard who indicated we could not ride on the bridge. We dumped the bikes and walked out, took our photos and headed off.

Imanari submersible bridge (chinka bridge)
View from the bridge upstream
View from the bridge downstream

Closer to our accomodation these boats were moored alongside the rivers edge.

Our accomodation is over the Takase submersible bridge.

Looking upstream
Looking towards Takase

Thankfully the owner was willing to let us in early. The bikes are stored in his bike shed along with out wet gear and shoes hoping it might dry a bit overnight.

Kenji relocated here from Tokyo many years ago, buying this house and developing three accomodation rooms. Ours is made up of two rooms, both with tatami flooring (no shoes, sleep on the floor Japanese style).

Our windows look out on this lovely garden.

What a day. Certainly less than ideal riding conditions that make it all a bit slower, but it was actually enjoyable and refreshing. I think the fact that it was a Sunday helped, as the traffic was less than it might have otherwise been.

The weather forecast indicates tomorrow should not rain, but instead is talking about a northerly wind of up to 50 kmh. Guess which direction we are heading tomorrow 🤣. You just have to laugh and hope it all works out fine. 😊

Thanks for reading. I’m looking forward to getting to bed a bit earlier tonight as last night was later, and I got up earlier.

What a brilliant trip this has been so far. We have covered just under 400 km in four days. Huge cultural learnings, wonderful scenery, lovely people.

Thanks for reading, smile on 😊❣️

Day 4: Matsubagawa to Takase

I slept restlessly listening to the rain and hoping it would all blow over. I played through a Plan B and a Plan C. I got up at. 4.45 am to check out the plausibility of B and C.

We had another extraordinarily good breakfast and got ready to leave. It was a steady drizzle.

Once the bikes were ready we headed out across the red bridge adjacent to the hotel for a quick squizz.

To the right.
To the left.

I noted this sign at the hotel, and could not agree more.

This is the ‘huge’ hotel sign we missed in yesterdays location confusion.

This sign led to our confusion, but all ended well and we had a good overnight stay, with two wonderful meals.

The rain was a heavy drizzle by now and we hoped that it did not deteriorate. The upside was that there was minimal wind and it was not cold. So getting wet was more tolerable.

The camera does not come out very often when it rains either, so less photos today.

We followed the Shimanto River from our accomodation for maybe 12 plus km. Here are a couple of photos. It is a pretty river, with lush vegetation.

We had over 2 km of tunnels again today, and this one was a bit of fun. for about half the length we had it to ourselves. I practised my best Freddy Mercury ‘ay-oh’ calls. They reverberated beautifully.

Hitting the coast it all looked a bit dismal.

This island has a shrine on it. Guess the pilgrims need a boat. In the photo you can just see the opening to the shrine path at water level.

Same island a bit further on.

This car and motorbike have been consumed by the creeper.

Today we stopped at a few Lawsons shops so I started calling the day Tour de Lawson. We had time to kill as the accomodation check in was 4 pm and we had a shorter day of about 77 km scheduled.

Lawsons have clean toilets, a wide variety of fresh food to eat, and this one had a coffee machine. It provided us shelter and we could watch some of the heavier rain despite the fact we were soaked.

Ride bikes, have fun, feel good!

Shimanto city arrived soon enough, another Lawsons to grab some food to take to our accomodation as it does not provide any food options, and is somewhat remote.

Red seems to be the favoured bridge colour. I must look into why.

In Shimanto City we were meant to turn right about 50 metres short of the bridge but decided to see what the road was like adjacent to the river. It was a great little road and we were able to follow it to our accomodation.

The full length of the Shimanto River is 196km. There are 47 submersible bridges. They are designed to withstand the forces of floods, which occur 3-4 times a year courtesy of typhoons.

A map showing some of the bridges

We had time to spare so decided to visit the first bridge. Curiously there was a security guard at the car park. There were about 6 cars there, in a car park that could take say a hundred.

As we rolled down to the bridge there was another security guard who indicated we could not ride on the bridge. We dumped the bikes and walked out, took our photos and headed off.

Imanari submersible bridge (chinka bridge)
View from the bridge upstream
View from the bridge downstream

Closer to our accomodation these boats were moored alongside the rivers edge.

Our accomodation is over the Takase submersible bridge.

Looking upstream
Looking towards Takase

Thankfully the owner was willing to let us in early. The bikes are stored in his bike shed along with out wet gear and shoes hoping it might dry a bit overnight.

Kenji relocated here from Tokyo many years ago, buying this house and developing three accomodation rooms. Ours is made up of two rooms, both with tatami flooring (no shoes, sleep on the floor Japanese style).

Our windows look out on this lovely garden.

What a day. Certainly less than ideal riding conditions that make it all a bit slower, but it was actually enjoyable and refreshing. I think the fact that it was a Sunday helped, as the traffic was less than it might have otherwise been.

The weather forecast indicates tomorrow should not rain, but instead is talking about a northerly wind of up to 50 kmh. Guess which direction we are heading tomorrow 🤣. You just have to laugh and hope it all works out fine. 😊

Thanks for reading. I’m looking forward to getting to bed a bit earlier tonight as last night was later, and I got up earlier.

What a brilliant trip this has been so far. We have covered just under 400 km in four days. Huge cultural learnings, wonderful scenery, lovely people.

Thanks for reading, smile on 😊❣️

Day 3: Kōchi to Matsubagawa

The view out our bedroom window, through the glass. Rain was forecast, but was ok at this point.

Had another amazing breakfast presented in a series of smaller dishes and we carefully negotiated out way back up the shiny, slipper stairs in the one size does not actually fit all soft slip ons that you are required to wear.

I walk up sideways, as my feet are also longer than the tread, so probably a comical look.

As we left, the manager used his iPad translator to express his concern for us as rain was forecast. So far, the Japanese people have been incredibly nice and humble and wanting to help as much as possible.

The first part of the ride, some 30 km or so, was getting through Kōchi. We followed a series of shared pathways, and on the whole it was a good route.

We stopped and started a lot as there were many road crossings. At this one, Tony readjusts his gear.

An example of an excellent snared pathway alongside the river

Big cities have busy intersections. It was not always a matter of crossing at the lights. We had a couple of very steep overhead crossings to negotiate, pushing our heavy bikes up, then controlling the descent with the brakes.

This one was smooth, but steep. That’s me pushing, nearly at the top
This one is different again. Push the bike up the ramp, whilst walking stairs. This particular overhead crossing had four such arms, descending to your required corner,

In a small residential, mixed farming area we noted this beautiful blossom tree.

Not far away, this lovely couple appeared.

This was their view through the tunnel under the rail line.

By this point we had donned our rain coats several times for rain showers. Up in the hills heavy mist descended.

We passed through another two km of tunnels today. The longest was 983m long. There is an older tunnel to the left no longer in use. This tunnel was ok as it had the shared pathway through.

We eventually reached the coast, but the weather ensured less than ideal viewing conditions.

The longest climb today was 6.2 km. Yesterdays tough one was 5.8 km. Distance is less relevant than how much climbing you have to do.

Yesterday the climb averaged 7.9% for the entire distance. That’s not an easy climb. Today the average was around 4.6% so much more ‘doable’.

This is Tony’s bike computer showing the climb. He was 200 metres in, as indicated by the white circle. The colours on the grid relate to steepness. Red and orange are the worst.
This is our ride data for the whole day. You can see the climb in question.

Climbing usually means great views. We climbed in drizzle. We took our rain jackets off as climbing makes you hot and you become a sweat box. We preferred the drizzle.

A few photos taken by Tony during the climb.

Looking back to the bridge we had crossed.

The climb had a name….Nanako Pass. It’s always a great feeling to reach the top.

Heading towards our overnight accomodation we rode alongside the Shimanto River. Our accomodation was well signposted…so we thought. Great road.

Arriving at what we thought was our accomodation, it turned out it was a day spa. I was very confused as I was certain I’d mapped this correctly. I had a horrible thought I’d totally stuffed it and was getting frustrated because the last 5 km it bucketed down, and it was still pouring and I was not keen to head back out.

After maybe 20 minutes of uncertainty, it turned out there were two adjacent buildings and only 50 metres away was a little sign saying ‘hotel’. Phew!!

Happily ensconced in another traditional Japanese style room, we both headed off to the day spa!! There is no shower in our room, you go to the onsen.

You wear your designated gown, strip off, enter the onsen, sit on a little bucket stool and shower, enter the spa, sit, soak, get out, shower again and wash your hair….then leave into another room where your towel is to dry and dress.

Tony progressed to the showering stage but chose not to go another few metres to the spa. The water is incredibly warm.

Dinner was at 6 pm. We approached three rooms with closed sliding doors. We were not sure which to open but then I saw this.

We had an incredible meal. We thought we were done after the first few dishes, plus our own little hot pots cooked next to us.

Then out came the tempura, then the salted fish, then the rice and miso, then the savoury custard.

Finally icecream turned up and we presumed that it was done!

A great day on the bikes, despite the weather. We are somewhat concerned about tomorrow as this is the radar. I sometimes wonder why we dry clothing knowing it’s going to get wet incredibly quickly.

The weather forecast for tomorrow is 4-6 mm each and every hour!

Try and find where we are 😳

Todays route.

Anyhow, smile on 😊 Thankyou for reading ❣️