Day 9: Motueka to St Arnaud

Today was an interesting day on the bike. Challenges to meet as we rode 112 km, climbed 1081 metres, heading from the Golden Bay coast to the mountains around St Arnaud.

We started off with a light breakfast at our accomodation, keen to start cycling as the weather forecast clearly showed rain was due in St Arnaud early to mid afternoon.

We were to climb most of the day as can be seen from our graph. Within that climbing, there were nine registered climbs on our Hammerhead computer. The hardest climb was that little one you can see around the 50 km mark. Seriously tested us. We had a headwind nearly all day.

Leaving Motueka we headed out along the Motueka Valley Highway, following the Motueka river. The day was crisp with only a few clouds, sun was beaming.

Motueka River
Motueka River

The plan was to follow as much of the Great Taste Trail as possible, in dry weather. The trail is predominantly gravel, of varying widths and quality. We had completed the section from Nelson to Kohatu the previous week.

Good signage

We liked this sign. The bridge ahead was in better condition than the sign indicated with beautiful views as we crossed.

Quirky art

The trail incorporates numerous suspension bridges. This one is quite narrow and had a lot of swing! Neither of us had gotten off our bike, but straddled over as we walked across. That is not recommended. Get off and push it!

Our method resulted in greater swing! I ended up waiting for Tony to get to the other side as it was always swinging contrary to my leg movements.

We demonstrated how not to cross a swing bridge today.
Great views though!

The trail does follow roads at times, and this section was quiet as it went through dense vegetation providing a nice canopy from the now warm sun.

This was the start of a 31 km gravel section. At this point we could have turned left to follow the Highway and saved 14 km overall. However, we had decided to follow the trail despite the weather we knew was coming.

3 km along that road we turned back to this same spot. The road was not in good condition. It was heavily corrugated, loose, dusty and it was shaking the teeth out of our mouth, rattling our brains and reminding me I should have peed earlier!

We felt we had nothing to gain of possibly 31 km of these conditions at the very slow speeds we were doing.

This road is best tackled with an mtb bike with suspension.

Back to the highway and off we went heading to the next town of Tapawera where we needed to find food. The taste trail also looped back to this town so we would be back on our original planned route at that point.

More nice river vistas and interesting sights.

The New Zealand rivers are really nice, very clean looking.
Some historical characters in the paddock.
Land usage varied. Predominantly agricultural including hops, dairy, berries and forestry with other areas still scrubby.

In Tapawera we were surprised to hear a cyclist call out to us. It was Anne, whom we had meet one week before at Spooner’s tunnel and then had lunch with at Kohatu.

Anne had been cycling in the area whilst Greg had a massage for a pesky back. Greg turned up and we all sat down and chatted as Tony and I had some food, Anne sharing some lovely blueberries she had purchased close by.

It amazes me these random catch ups…if you had tried to plan this, we could not have achieved a better timing result. I had only been thinking about them as we arrived in town as the cafe we met at was only a further 8 km away.

The selfie with Greg and Anne

As they drove past us, Anne snapped a few more photos and sent them to us. Rare for us to have a photo of both of us riding together.

Lovely backdrop here
Waving in unison.

We headed back onto the Taste trail and rode up through the Maniaroa cutting. This part of the trail is an old rail trail.

The clouds are starting to build. We are heading to the mountains.

We stopped to look at these three sculptures, promoting a private adjacent sculpture park. Looks like lollipops on sticks.

The great scenery continues, and we were cloud watching too.
Back at the cafe we’d lunched at the previous week we purchased more drink for our ride.

The next section was on state highway and not very pleasant. The traffic was super heavy and that headwind that had been omnipresent all day was strengthening.

After 15 km or so, we were pleased to deviate onto a quieter road, little traffic, just the headwind.

It was warm, and given we were climbing all day and into a headwind, we were consuming more fluid than usual. We were running low again, and Tony headed off to this stream hoping the water would be ok to drink.

Whilst he was under the bridge, the farmer drove out, and I did ask him if the water was drinkable, and he told us we’d be fine.

With 20 km to go, we had six registered climbs to complete, with two around three km in length. They were all on a busier connector road.

The further we went, we could see that down to our right, the weather was closing in,and we knew we were highly unlikely to not get wet.

It has started raining down towards St Arnaud

With only 9.5 km remaining we stopped to don our wet weather gear and bang the skies opened. The camera stayed firmly tucked away in the dry for the rest of our ride.

We had hail and decent sized hail stones smacking onto our face with the headwind. We took cover under a forest of trees as the thunder boomed.

Each boom of thunder seemed to shake more hail from the skies, like it loosened it up. I have never been out in a hail storm before and found that interesting although wishing it would stop!

It eased up just a tad and we really needed to get moving. The temperature had dropped significantly and our legs were starting to get cold. The best way to warm our body was to pedal.

The weather gods had more tricks up their sleeves. They introduced lightning! Thunderbolts and lightning, very very frightening indeed! 🎶

I was counting between the lightning bolts and thunder. One Mississippi, two Mississippi, three….boom!

We kept pedalling. I was thinking of the final two km climb in May climbing Passo Gardena in Italy, where we had a dry thunderstorm (the gods waited until we got to the top before sending down the rain, plus there was no lightning).

20-30 metres separated Tony and I and flash, a lightning bolt in between us! I only got to one missi…and boom the loudest clap of thunder I have ever heard above my head.

I screeched out telling it to ‘go away’ (perhaps said less politely) and we headed to some trees but they provided no shelter in this case so we got back on the road, as we still had one km left in this final climb.

By the time we made the intersection to St Arnaud’s it was just absolutely bucketing down rain. The hail stopped.

Fortunately it was downhill to St Arnaud, little traffic (they were more sensible) and we just concentrated on getting there as safely and quickly as possible.

We are staying in the Alpine Lodge and have our Chinese laundry set up nicely. A warm shower and lovely dinner to end a memorable day on the bike.

Days like this are memorable for the variety and the tenacity required to get through the difficult parts. It was not an easy day with the constant climbing and headwind let alone the hail, thunder, lightning and rain.

There is something very satisfying in achieving this under your own steam successfully and we were on a high.

This is the radar as we arrived in St Arnaud’s. St Arnaud’s is around that bright red blob, South Island.

Thanks for reading and following our adventures vicariously. For those who send us messages via the various means, a huge thanks as your support and encouragement is appreciated. 😊❣️🚴

Today’s route

Day 8: Collingwood to Motueka via Abel Tasman National Park

Another beautiful day and a highlight on this trip visiting the Abel Tasman National Park.

First things first, breakfast back at the Courthouse Cafe, our go to cafe in this area. Ok the pickings are slim, but this cafe is excellent and would shine anywhere.

Goodbye Collingwood as we climbed up and over a few hills heading back towards Motueka.

The views towards the Aorere Valley were clear. This is the valley we cycled to get to Langfords store.

Riding back through Takaka and Motupipi we headed to Pohara and the coastline.

We stopped at these toilets, cutely painted.
Warning to drivers
Pohara

Ligar Bay was next as we followed the coast road.

Beautiful waters
Ride through the gap up and around the Abel Tasman lookout memorial
Looking back, the white beacon is the memorial

This shack is on a slither of land that juts out from the beach on one side and a tidal inlet on the other. Perfectly positioned.

The tidal inlet very popular with boards

Above Tata Beach we climbed sharply. Quite a hard little climb too and it was getting quite warm.

At the top the views were those within the national park.

Looks like a mussel farm? Mussels are certainly popular locally.

Just beautiful
View towards Anatimo
Descending towards Anatimo
Beautifully clear waters

Then the fun began. looking at our climbing graph, that nasty climb to 300 metres was all on gravel, loose and slippery in parts due to no recent rain dampening it down.

I knew this would be a challenge for me in addition to the gravel dust from other users.

I did it. Up and down! In fact, I prefer up to the slippery down. We dud get passed by two blokes on mtb e-bikes and a plethora of cars, some towing boats.

Climbing ….
Distant views, nice vegetation.
Nearly there…

What a place. Totaranui Beach is my new favourite place in New Zealand. It’s magnificent.

You can camp here but there were no caravans as the road is not suitable.

We arrived 2 hours before our ferry shuttle was due so we did enjoy chilling on the beach.

Popular with boats, campers and bushwalkers, the area is serviced by a few water taxi and ferry shuttles. They drop bush walkers off and collect. We saw many walkers leave with their backpacks.

Route taken to Totaranui
Chilling

We booked with Wilson’s and can highly recommend them to cyclists. We needed to remove our rear panniers, pedals front bags. The bikes were strapped to the railings at the front of the boat.

We are a bit ‘precious’ about our bikes but have nothing but compliments for the crew.

The ferry shuttle made about five stops along the coastline picking up a variety of people. We sat with a Dutch couple who had spent 4 hours walking a particular trail and were heading back to their hire car in Kaiteriteri.

There was commentary provided by the crew about the local history including granite mining, forestry, maritime reserve efforts and fur seal colonies.

Lots of wonderful looking beaches and rugged coastline. The only way in is by boat or walking.

Kayaking popular along the coast

The route our ferry took.

Once in Kaiteriteri the ferry beached itself and off we all piled.

We put our luggage and pedals back on and high tailed it to Motueka climbing and winding out way out and eventually dropping back into the Great Taste Trail.

We are in Motueka overnight and enjoyed a nice meal at the Sprig and Fern, having given up on the Motueka Hotel when after one hour they’d not started cooking our dinner, and we were one of the early orders.

Totaranui is a definite highlight, plus the effort taken to actually get there!

Getting ready for another day, thanks for reading 😊❣️🚴

Day 7: Cape Farewell reconnaissance

Cape Farewell the most northerly point on the South Island mapped by Abel Tasman and named by Captain Cook. It’s Maori history is a lot older and if more significance.

Today the area houses an eco sanctuary enclosed by a predator proof fence.

Today we were heading back up towards the Cape and the Spit to explore more.

Unlike yesterday it was very overcast with low cloud.

Humans can be scary as we had found out the previous day.

It was back onto gravel roads at Port Puponga, heading in a generally westerly direction. The signpost indicated it was 6 km to a camp ground that also had a coffee shop.

It was also the base for many walks in the area.

There was a consistent flow of tourist traffic heading in, but they drove at a far more considerate pace, and many were 2wd vehicles and a variety of camper vans.

There is some farmland.

The road has two climbs, was a well compacted base with some looser gravel on top.

Once we arrived at the end of the road, Tony took the camera and walked in to Whaririki Beach as we deemed it unsuitable for me with my knee and lack of appropriate footwear.

Photos from Whaririki Beach and walk back out.

The cafe is a quirky place, well sited for walkers.

We then rode back out the 6 km gravel road, with increasingly heavy inward bound traffic including three 4wd buses.

We then took another gravel road to Farewell Spit, which consists of 25 of stable land and 5 km of mobile sand spit. It is the longest sand spit in New Zealand.

You can walk to the outer spit, facing the Tasman Sea.

A borrowed aerial photo showing the spit extent.

Our view from the inner spit, forming part of Golden Bay. Very shallow waters, lots of drift wood. This is on the stable land part.

Local board with walks

A more alarming sign!

A very pleasant 25 km ride back to Collingwood where we were able to get into a nice groove of around 25-26 km per hour to arrive at our favourite cafe, Collingwood Court House.

I was keen to try the mussel chowder and it was the best chowder I have ever had !

The other cafe? This art work sign appeared on the window the previous day. Doors were shut so I had peered at the art work through the windows. However, as we headed back to shower guess who was standing out the front? NgAngA himself. Fish can’t be biting!

Collingwood is worth visiting! We really like the little village and area. Great waterways, mountains, vistas, cafe, quirkiness and bike rides.

Tomorrow we move onwards on our little cycle tour.

Thanks for reading.

Day 19: Soca Valley

A beautiful morning. No rain forecast. The plan today was to do an out and back ride along the upper reaches of the Soca Valley.

Leaving Kobarid, high on the hill is the Church of St Anthony, that also includes an ossuary containing many arranged bones of soldiers killed in the World War One battle front.

We immediately started climbing and part way had to stop, for five minutes due to roadworks, where a bridge is being replaced/widened.

It was a lovely valley to ride through, up and down, but very comfortable climbs. We were riding at a super chilled pace, stopping frequently to watch the goings on in the valley and river.

Near the top of one of the climbs
The road was excellent, but quite busy at times. Many trucks and motor cyclists, as well as vans carrying canoes and rubber duckies.
Local hero memorialised
You do not tire of looking at the beautiful Soci river

Stand up paddle boarders. The guy in red is waving at us, and was super chilled, spinning around to go backwards whilst he watched his charges.

Canoeing and kayaking was super popular, with many vehicles carrying watercraft passing us, and many towns and villages with signs promoting their local businesses for the same.

Bushwalking is another popular activity, with trails around the river and valleys.

Quite a deep gorge here, I got vertigo looking at the lady on the other side.

Our plan was to ride to Bovec, the adventure centre of the valley, but we continued on up the valley to the village of Soca.

Just beautiful
Calmer river

At Soca there is one little bar/shop where they have nothing to eat but you can buy from their little grocery store and eat that outside. Most seem to stop for a beer or coffee. cash needed as their eftpos stopped working some time ago…

This guy was at that stop.

We met a lovely German couple at Soca who had arrived by car, but are also into cycle touring, and wanted to talk about bike set ups with luggage.

Sabina and Tobias have done some awesome cycling adventures including the Black Sea route to Istanbul. We recently followed a USA couple who did that route and followed their video blog. Always lovely to talk to like minded people who ‘get’ why you do what you do.

If you keep heading up the valley further, you get to Vrsic Pass, the highest alpine pass in Slovenia at 1611 metres. Between WW1 and WW2 it was the border between Italy and Yugoslavia, but today both sides are Slovenia 🇸🇮.

We headed back along the same route offering a differing perspective.

Roundabout sheep

A poignant reminder of war, where there are burials here of Austro Hungarian soldiers. There are four fields like this with only this field having markers. There are no names on the markers.

My paternal grandfather fought in WW1 (Light horseman in Egypt), my great uncle Alex died at the Somme (I have his bible), my maternal grandfather was in WW2 (musician entertaining troops PNG). I do not understand war….so many innocent people die. Just all to sad.

Stopped for fruit here in Bovec, grabbed a couple of nice bananas
Nice waterfall high up Tony saw when he went scrub for a nature call
Beautiful gorge as we crossed a bridge in a small village
I think zip lining may occur here as there was a wooden base near the bridge with the cable.
Beautiful mountains, serene views
Looking back
Looking sideways
Plenty of tourist info available, including English

It was a really nice ride today and I can highly recommend it.

The road was fairly busy with some cars zipping by fairly closely so you needed to concentrate and hold your line, and hope they hold their too! No bikepaths here.

Despite the savage and barbaric history of the Soca valley that saw the deaths of 1.7 million men, the displacement of 300,000 local residents (many did not return after the war, their houses having being taken over by soldiers or destroyed) the region survives.

Likes the phoenix rising from the ashes, the Soca Valley and Slovenia are on a positive, upward trajectory with fun and happy people filling the valley and making positive memories in a gorgeous, and unprecedentedly beautiful setting.

Today’s route was 66 km, with 823m climbing. My bruised hip hurts less on the bike than sitting on a chair or the bed!

I suspect the Giro d’Italia may have had a stage through here in a prior year as the road is well sealed ( often happens before a major tour comes through) and there were numerous pink bikes with Slovenian flags in villages.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 2: Thames Head to Monmouth

We were awake by 5.30 am, but breakfast was not until 8 am 🙈😳 The bikes were packed and ready to go and at 8 am we presented ourselves.

Whilst waiting for our order, a couple from Chicago turned up. We had spoken with them the previous day. They are walking the Thames Path to London and were starting today.

The lady busily chopped raw onion, added sliced pancetta, and sliced a 1 kg block of cheese, making bread rolls for the day. I did wonder how long the left over cheese and pancetta would last in her backpack en route to London.

I’m being a total sticky beak here, but somewhat bemused and curious re the cheese and meat, let alone carrying a large partial.lt cut onion in your back pack.

We were on the road by 8.35 and the first 12 km or so was on the very busy Bath Road. I was certainly pleased to reach Tetbury.

Tetbury is the village location of King Charles III private residence, Highgrove House, although legally, I think it is actually now owned by the new Prince of Wales via the Duchy of Cornwall.

The town has a history over 1300 years, since 681, when King Ethelred of Mercia gifted the land to an Abbott.

The Snooty Fox, a pub in town, great name.

Some of the town buildings including the old market square, Cotswold stone buildings and Llamas in Pyjamas 🤣

Nice old church entrance

Leaving Tetbury we were riding along farming lanes connecting villages. The one below is around the rear boundary of Highgrove land.

The stone walls have been incredibly well constructed. They are all dry and works of art.

In the village of Leighterton is St Andrew’s, a thirteenth century parish church. I like the timber clad belfrey with its shingle roof. The church has a slate roof.

More agricultural views. It makes for pleasant riding, despite the continual up and down slopes and infrequent cow pats on the road (one of the reasons our drink bottles have enclosed lids).

Lovely forests and distant views towards Wales. Riding laneways like the one below are great, but you always need to be wary as this is quite narrow and cars pass with difficulty.

It was a hilly ride today, climbing around 900 metres. Here I am near the top of yet another climb. Most of the rural climbs were upwards of 12%, which is more than enough with the extra gear on the bike.

You can see Wales now in the background. Just out of view on the left is the Severn bridge, where we will cross into Wales.

Another interesting town, but we really busted our boilers here. Our mapping took us up the seeming shortest route to the Main Street, with a nasty 15-16% climb up Ludgate Hill.

I was hoping I did not need to give way at the top as I need a metre or so of flat to be safe in removing feet from the cleats to give way ( versus falling over)! Fortunately no cars and I was ok.

The Main Street half way up from Ludgate Hill junction

A series of super narrow lanes ensued. These are barely one car wide. If a car comes either way you need to either get into the bushes or move forward hoping to find a lane access into a farm.

Chunks of our route today were on the Avon Cycle Way which is an 85 mile circular route around Bristol. We were on parts of the northern section.

This laneway was a bit of a goat track. You can see the Severn bridge to the left with its white tall towers. Behind the crane is the Thornbury parish church.

Thornbury is quite pretty. I liked this regal flower display.

Thornbury Castle is a Tudor structure commenced in 1511. The castle was confiscated by King Henry Viii who stayed there for ten days with Anne Boleyn in 1535. The castle fell into disprepair after the English Civil War, but was renovated in 1824 and now serves as a hotel and restaurant.

I was fortunate to have stayed in the Castle in 2007 for two nights so passing by today was to admire the building only, as this was not to be our destination tonight.

The Parish church of Saint Mary started in 1340 with latter major additions. The church is the resting place of the entrails of Jasper Tudor, uncle and mentor to the young Henry Tudor, later Henry VII of England.

We were hungry but we pushed on. The sky was quite dark in patches, and rain was forecast.

As we crossed the Severn river and entered Wales, it started raining. The river is the longest in Great Britain at around 354 km in length. It is tidal here, and quite muddy.

Heading into Wales

We stopped to put our rain jackets and booties on after exiting a narrow laneway, and sat under a rail tunnel.

Looking down the laneway
Tony coming down the laneway
Colourful graffiti
Where we sat.

Chepstow, is the first major town we entered in Wales, adjacent to the border with Gloucestershire, England. It is located on the tidal River Wye.

We stopped at a small supermarket on the busy road versus heading into the town, as the rain motivated us to keep moving. Lunch was a fresh bread roll with a banana in it.

We passed the Chepstow race course. There were cars everywhere, including a flea market in one car park. Families were heading down with their children.

A small section of the racecourse marquees

Wye Valley, is an area of outstanding natural beauty, running along the border between England and Wales here. We followed the valley for the rest of our ride today. Tintern Abbey is a site that encourages you to stop and stare.

Tintern Abbey was built by Walter de Clare, Lord of Chepstow, in 1131. It was the first Cistercian foundation in Wales, and only the second in Britain. It fell into ruin after the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1536(good old King Henry VIII!), treasures were removed, lead from the roof was sold, and the building decay began.

Over 70,000 visitors year visit the abbey – and this is also my third visit (2007, 2013)

Old adjacent ruins

Continuing on we followed the Wye River as it meandered along the picturesque Wye Valley.

Eventually we arrived in Monmouth which is situated where the River Monnow joins the River Wye. The town was the site of a small Roman fort and became established after Monmouth Castle was constructed in 1067.

Crossing the first bridge, looking at a local boys school
Signage in dual languages

This is an interesting statue of Charles Rolls, as in Rolls Royce. Aside from that venture, he was an aviation pioneer and a cyclist, having captained Cambridge University cycling club. Despite a great future he was killed at the age of 32 in his plane during a display. He was the first Briton to be killed in an aeronautics, accident, and the 11th internationally.

Agincourt Square with our hotel in the background.
Local military museum adjacent to the castle

Monmouth castle was the birthplace of King Henry V in 1396 is now in ruins. There is a statue of Henry V in town. Sadly not much remains of the former stronghold of Henry IV.

Another old church….

Our accomodation is here tonight. The reception lady has been super helpful and our bikes are stored in their ‘bike shed’ under lock and key.

A solid day on the bike with a doubling of the climbing to gear us up for more tomorrow. We are weary tonight and looking forward to a good sleep.

Thanks for reading 😳❣️

Day 3: Monmouth to Builth Wells

A tough day riding today in trying conditions (head winds and never ending climbs), plus a spill from the bike. However, the ride was great overall, great route, towns and scenery. 94 km and 1600 metres climbing with a loaded bike is challenging but we did it. Knowing you got through the day is always satisfying but we’re tired now,

Leaving Monmouth we crossed the Morrow river passing under this famous gate tower, The bridge was believed to have been built around 1272 to replace a Norman timber bridge.

It is the only remaining fortified river bridge in Great Britain with its gate tower standing on the bridge.

We rode past two interesting gate cottages. It makes you wonder what the main house is like.

This one appears to be occupied
This one is a abandoned. A renovators delight!

The rural scenery was very pleasant and green.

A memorial water fountain, no longer used, dedicated to a local citizen from the 1800’s.

I particularly liked this vista, across the paddocks, to the nicely shaped church. A jigsaw puzzle picture.

Today was all about climbs. Lots of them. The graph does not show all the individual smaller climbs.

The third major climb at around the 20 km point, my chain dropped as I climbed started to climb a steeper section (when I changed rings) and that meant I had no ability to pedal, nor could I get my feet\ shoes out of the cleats quick enough.

So on a busy road, in slow motion, over I went.

The front bag burst open, stuff went everywhere, I was on my side and picked myself up as quickly as I could. My bum and hip took most of the hit, my knee just a couple of small grazes made to look worse due to the blood thinners I take.

I have stiffened tonight though 😳

I rolled back down the hill to start it again, resting at The Red Heart.

Continuing on, the fields are wide and open, still super green.

The climbs keep appearing.

The first major town today was Abergavenny. Situated at the confluence of the River Usk and a tributary stream, the Gavenny. It is surrounded by mountains and hills, including the Sugar Loaf. It is known as a gateway to the Brecon Beacons National Park.

The view as we descended into Abergavenny
Pretty flowers

We stopped outside a bakery for refreshments. As we consumed our goods, we met Vernon and Jill from Derbyshire. They have cycled toured in the last and were curious about our trip.

They shared photos of their grandson Leon Atkinson who currently has four National (UK) age championships to his name in four events. A name to watch out for in the future.

Leaving town, waiting for Tony while he takes this photo.

Blackberries are plentiful and Tony sampled some today, and said they were really nice.

More climbs, more views.

I’m not sure if these are llamas or alpacas, I always get confused. The black one intrigued as as when we talked to him, he stopped chewing. When we stopped he would chew. Maybe he is a she…🤣

All the main towns today were at the bottom of descents, meaning there were tough climbs out of each town.

This view is just above Crickhowell, my favourite town today.

Crickhowell lies on the River Usk, on the edge of the Black Mountains. it is the birth place of Roddy Llewllyn, better known as Sir Roderic Llewellyn, 5th Baronet – aka Princess Margaret’s playboy back in the 70’s.

We stopped for lunch here, a fresh baguette with a fresh banana.

Squinting…

The old castle was initially a motte and bailey castle built from around 1121. It was damaged badly in the 1400’s by the last born Prince of Wales, Owain Glyndwyr.

The town was vibrant, and many buildings had colourful flower displays.

Leaving town we crossed the river, and followed a canal.

River Usk
The muddy canal

There were nice forests and more churches.

llanfrynach St Brynach churchyard

Our route took us along the Brecon canal, apparently voted Britains prettiest canal.

It was lovely riding the two miles along here. It was a flat gravel path. It was busy with people walking their dogs.

Through the gate and past the lock
We were heading towards the Brecon basin
A canal boat

In the town of Brecon the canal becomes a basin. You can hire a boat here for one hour, 40 pounds.

We did not stop in Brecon. We weaved our way around the town to head back into the hills.

A statue of Wellington

More cute churches and fields.

We were quite tired by now, but climbing was not done with us yet. As we started to climb, there was a warning sign stating the climb was 16%. It was also 2 km in length.

Per our computer data we could see that the super steep section was for maybe 500 metres or so. I walked! I pushed the bike up and it got to 20.4%

As I rounded a bend, Tony was also walking. It is actually hard pushing your bike with gear up such a steep hill. The knee did complain.

At the top, this was the warning sign for cars descending.

Adjacent was a military firing range. The red flags were flying, the sheep oblivious. These sheep are fenced, but there were many others wandering around the roadside.

The vegetation had changed considerably. It was very open and bare. Exposed to the headwinds, making the challenge harder.

After the steeper section, we were able to continue climbing on our bikes. Here I am near the top.

As we rested, we met a local mtb rider John (known to his friends as ‘the pope’). We were at a junction with what seemed to be a farm road and the main road. John had come off the farm road.

Talking to him he imparted his local knowledge and suggested we get off the main road, and head to Builth Wells by this alternative route. It is always great to chat to other cyclists.

He assured us it was all downhill.

Well it was mainly downhill bar the uphill bits 🤣🤣 However, what goes up, must go down, and Builth Wells like every other town today, is at the bottom of a big hill.

These are some views along the alternative route.

We arrived at our accomodation in town, and after showering and laundering headed off to search for dinner and check out the town.

Builth Wells at the confluence of the rivers Wye and Irfon – in the upper part of the Wye Valley.

Random bull
Sad demise for an otherwise nice church. Junk everywhere including bikes.

Tomorrow a storm weather warning has been issued, Storm Antoni, with winds of up to 55 mph, plus lots of rain. We will reassess tomorrow but a train is an option. We are scheduled to climb over 1500 m again and that would be dangerous on a bike in a storm.

Anyway, let’s see what tomorrow brings.

Yatta yo – I did it!

I hope to inspire you to put into your mind the thoughts and the strength to live your best most authentic existence. This is your moment to live. To make the best of this time on the earth.

A beautiful quote from an inspirational lady, Dr Edith Egers , an Auschwitz survivor and author.

I hope my story encourages, motivates and provides hope to anyone who has a similar personal challenges like I’ve faced.

This trip was a challenge for me. Physically and mentally.

I’ve ridden over 30,000 cycle touring overseas since 2013. So a 1,200 km plus ride in two weeks may seem a piece of cake to some. To others, crazy 🤣

Part of this trip was to test my tenacity and resilience following open heart surgery nine months ago.

I’ve had my my chest sawn open and my heart stopped beating for a few hours. I was kept alive by a bypass machine. I was on life support for 20 hours.

Rehabilitation was tough. I had setbacks with a pleural effusion at three months.

Sharron v2.0 is ok. She did it. She’s back!

Yes I’m pumped. I’m proud of me as I know just what I’ve been through and what I have done to get my fitness back.

We have had just the most brilliant time here in Japan circumnavigating Shikoku.

The scenery has been astounding. The people we met have been the nicest, genuine, kindest, respectful, helpful people. The food has been ❣️

We averaged 87 km per day, and climbed an average of 770m each day. That’s pretty cool and I’m happy with that.

So this means one thing – stepping up for another trip starting on my one year heart anniversary, late July, a big loop four countries….but that blog is for another day.

Today we had breakfast at the home of our Air BnB hosts, Yukio Shintani and Tamiko.

All of our communication was via Google translator, and that worked fine. They were interested in our trip, route and pictures.

We had a short ride of about 6.5 km to the Tokushima ferry terminal, arriving in plenty of time. We may have scored a bonus, as I went to pay for the two bikes, and was given tickets without additional money being requested.

We had about 90 plus minutes to wait, so we cleaned our bikes using moist cloths that we’ve been given with all our sushi and sashimi purchases over the fortnight. Australia immigration require spotless bikes.

The bikes were not that grotty, as we had cleaned them twice already. Wandering around the wharf the views are typically industrial as you would expect.

A couple of guys were fishing just over the ferry terminal barrier wall. I did not see them reel in anything. The river is the Yoshino that we followed for a few days around Oboke.

The ferry arrives. It is quite interesting to watch as it comes so very close to the platform, and the outward bow thrusters work very hard to push the ferry laterally to the side wharf.

The front opens, the ramp comes down, and all the vehicles and trucks are off very quickly.

Workers quickly secure our bikes.

We sat outside on the rear deck vs being inside around everyone. It was very noisy but refreshing.

The main Japanese island of Honshu appears.

Just like that, we dock, ride 3km to our hotel and the cycling trip is Finito!

The last bit we do not enjoy. Packing the bikes up. Well I should not complain as Tony does that, and I do my best to help.

My job was to get the bags out of storage which was a pain as it was 1.30 pm and check in was 2 pm, and they’d put our bags in our room.

The receptionist wanted me to wait until 2 pm….lucky I was wearing a mask so she could not see my mouth! I negotiated their release, but needed to pay in full for the room first….of course my money was with the bikes, so down I go 11 stories.

I pay the bill, get the bags from the 4th floor over two trips returning with gear from the bike over multiple trips.

Eventually the bikes are in our room and bonus we have a deck. Tony finishes packing the bags on the deck. This is Tony’s bike.

At the local supermarket we pick up some food but no melons or mangoes. Food here is relatively cheap, but these are super expensive. The mangoes are about $23 each, and the cantaloupe $35.

I do like the presentation though. Saves people squeezing the mangoes to see if they are ripe! The golden stems look lovely too. Worth the extra $ 😳

The plan is to be at the railway station (next door) before 5 am to catch the 5.05 am train. We need to change lines to Kensai (Osaka airport) along the way.

We leave at 10 am heading to Hong Kong, where we have too much time but should be able to access the Qantas Club lounge. Sydney, Melbourne, Devonport and finally Turners Beach Saturday afternoon.

A huge thanks to all who have read and followed the Japan blog series.

I can highly recommend Shikoku as a place to visit and tour. If you do not fancy organising a trip and being self supporting, I recommend that you contact Sam at Hidden Japan Tours. Link below.

https://hiddenjapantravel.com

Massive thanks to my domestique, primary photographer and husband, Tony. He goes along with all my hair brained ideas, and he’s admitted this one was pretty cool! xx

This trip is dedicated my cardiac team – in particular Dr Nikhil Pal and Dr Ash Hardikar. Thankyou for your care, diagnostic and surgical skills that have given me a fighting chance of living longer. ❣️

Stay hungry, stay foolish.

Heat map of our ride….just a little section missing around Imabari when Tony’s gps had a hissy.

Day 14: Oboke to Tokushima

As I looked out our bedroom window, there were low lying clouds in the valleys above Oboke Gorge. It looked like it was going to be an absolute ripper of a day weather wise.

Today is our last full day riding, with only two short rides tomorrow as we head back to where it all began a fortnight ago.

We followed the Yoshina River north. It was a lovely ride out for 10 km, before we crossed the river and followed a higher, slightly undulating route through a series of small villages.

This is a two way road, very narrow yet it works. Drivers here are very patient with each other, and in general, drive significantly smaller vehicles.

We followed the Yoshino River for all of our 95 km today.

it was getting hot. At 10.30 am it was already 31c. When we stopped maybe 90 minutes later it was hotter again. Not sure what it topped out at but we sure were melting.

We stopped regularly buying cold liquid. It was at one of these stops that a couple rolled in with their fully loaded touring bikes, and we acknowledged each other, then realised we were all Aussies!

They are from Yackandandah in Victoria and spending 5 weeks in Japan. Lovely to meet them.

A little further along the road I met this couple and took a photo with them. They were playing golf.

Next door, there were a bunch of older folk resting.

The masked couple on the swings were not at all chatty!

After the scarecrows yesterday we were surprised to see more. I did grope the leg of the guy I was sitting next to in my photo, and he did seem solidly constructed!

We were now riding along the top of a levy, with a gusty headwind providing some relief from the heat.

Crossing another bridge, this is the view as we looked towards Tokushima down the valley. The gap between the hills is ocean. the Yoshino River empties into the ocean there.

We deviated into this riverside park as it had toilets. A nice area with lots of walks and sports ground.

More cold liquid as we were going through it very quickly. My legs were wet with sweat.

We spent many km today in heavier traffic, including the last 25 km. No room for lapses of concentration. We were pleased to arrive at our accomodation and shower!

After far too much food at breakfast and dinner the last two days we walked about 400m to Halows and grabbed some sushi and fruit for dinner.

The owner of the air BnB has offered to make us breakfast tomorrow and we have accepted.

The map below shows,where we are now in relation to Wakayama ( ferry to there as we have our bike bags stored there, plus spending tomorrow afternoon and evening there) and Osaka….our departure point back to Australia.

There will be one more blog and another piece of ‘news’ ….until then, thanks for reading and smile on 😊❣️

Day 13: Iya Valley

The Queen stage of our cycle trip, and it was a corker of a day weather wise, with a forecast of around 30c.

We headed off soon after 8 am to try and get the first climb of 5 km done in cooler air.

The Yoshino River, Oboke Gorge looked beautiful.

Below is our graph showing climbs. Mirror image as we did an out and back route. The first climb took us from 180m asl (above sea level to around 580 m asl.

Nearing the top provided nice views of the green hills and valleys.

The last one km of the climb was kamikaze tunnel. We kept climbing inside that tunnel at around 3% for 985m in length, no verge, no area to ride aside from the one lane.

The noise inside long tunnels is scary at times. Motorbikes actually make the loudest noise, followed by trucks. When they come up behind you, you just hope they’ve noted you.

On the ground there were raised reflectors, which were a bit dodgy for bikes as they were quite high and not angled well. There is occasional litter to avoid such as walking boots and hammers!

It is ALWAYS a relief to leave the kamikaze tunnels. Today we did over 7 km in tunnels. This is not included in total km data as the bike computers rely on satellites, and in a tunnel, they cannot communicate.

Safely out the other side, we started out gradual incline along the valleys of the Iya Valley. Lovely vistas.

Water flowed out here, and there were two ladles. We presumed this was safe drinking water pumped up from the Iya River.

Structured waterfalls off the roadside were not infrequent.

Iya-no-Kazirabashi (Vine Bridge), is one of Japan’s Three Strange Bridges. The Kazirabashi suspension bridge is made of local vines and is a nationally designated important Cultural Property.

Legends say that the ancient Heike residents made such bridges in order to easily cut them away if pursued by invading warriors.

Rebuilt every three years and stretching 45 m long, 2 m wide and swaying 14 m above the river below, tourists love to walk across. There was a bus load about the walk across from the left when this photo was taken. It costs 550 yen to walk across.

Tablet nearby

Close by is the 50m high Biwa waterfall.

Back on route, we commenced an 11 km climb that would take us up over 900 m asl. The gradient was ok, but the heat was starting to melt us, and we had eaten our snacks. We were rationing our water, and no shops, no vending machines,

We bonked with maybe 3 km to go and battled up the final section. The nice views helped.

Our target was Kakashi-no-Sato, otherwise know as the Scarecrow village. In the Iya valleys final village of Nagato dwells one of Japan’s curious oddities.

There are 23 residents living in the village, but over 300 life sized ‘dolls’ that work the fields, gather along the road, attend school, host weddings and gatherings.

It is a weird feeling as you feel you are being watched by ‘the eyes’.

After wandering around, we sat in the shade, and Tony changed my very stuffed brake pads. A tourist bus arrived and whilst some wandered around looking at the scarecrows, another bunch stood and watched Tony 🤣

We did enjoy our descent! I was glad I had new brake pads too!

Finally we found a very small local shop 2 km from the bottom. I perused and grabbed what I could and we sat in the shade eating and drinking and getting some energy back.

This dog was on a lead, and seemed to live at the shop. I commented on how timid the dog was. It went ape and did not stop barking until we left…call me anything, but don’t call me timid! 🤣

We had one tough climb left. 2.4 km at 9.7%…. Is tough! That’s steep. We knew it would be nasty as we descended from kamikaze tunnel. I was thankful we’d gotten some food into us as that helped get us up the blighter.

Then it was back through kamikaze tunnel, but far more enjoyable as it descended 3% for the one km.

Out the other side, and the views towards the Oboke area.

I decreased the route on the map so,you could see Tokushima, our destination tomorrow, and last full day ride this trip.

Japan continues to impress us with our experiences on Shikoku. People are so friendly and helpful. Even the guys with their red and white flags at roadworks smile, wave, bow and one today even clapped!

Climbing over 2000 metres today is huge for me, plus we rode 91 km. It is many years since I have climbed that amount, and to do that only 9 months post open heart surgery astounds me.

Thankyou for reading and the comments here and on FB fe the blog continue to motivate us.

Smile on 😊❣️

Day 12: Saijo to Oboke

We had a lovely meal and time with our new Japanese friend Toshi. he picked us up and proudly showed us his house he rents to visitors, his clubhouse, his restaurant, all part of his kingdom, that also includes an international school.

I loved this walkway between stands of massive bamboo. I have my two hands around one, and still a gap.

Toshi and Tony stand in part of the guest accomodation. There is a Japanese fire in front of them you can use.

Toshi the retired professorial pharmacology scientist is also a farmer who has around 4000 2m as a farm, using his produce in his restaurant. The man can cook up a feast and this was first course!

We were truly humbled to have met Toshi and blown away by his generosity and kindness, not to mention his wit and keen intellect.

All good things end, and we woke up this am ready to roll. It was a mixed day. The majority of the first 50 km was an extended conurbation with connected cities, busy arterial roads, mix of footpath quality, little road verge and at times ok verges

You needed to concentrate to keep yourself safe as it’s the last place to make a mistake inches from a heavy truck. Uneven surfaces, potholes, rubbish, sudden curb drops and barriers all pose risks.

We stopped numerous times, initially Tony wanting a very small headed screwdriver to remove the back from his heart monitor. Finally we found a Bunnings like hardware store.

I waited…..the mountains around were claggy.

Food and many other items seem cheap in Japan. Here is a very practical example. If you want one of these ‘thingies’ it will set you back $4 aud.

There were Australian native plants for sale. These large potted wattles are $10. You would pay $40 plus at home for a plant this size.

By now Tony emerged from the depths of the store, screwdriver having been obtained. He changed his battery and off we went.

We had a few gradual climbs on the busier roads, and the weather was getting warm and muggy.

We were relieved to reach Miyoshi city, indicating we needed to turn right towards Oboke. We were following the Yoshina River.

The Yoshina River is the largest river in Shikoku stretching for 194 km. It’s basin takes up almost 20 percent of the island of Shikoku.

The river is also regarded as the wildest river in Japan attracting rafters globally including hosting the World Championships in 2017 in both Oboke and Koboke,Gorges.

This is a bridge to nowhere. It just crossed the river, but that was it!

This bridge had a purpose. It’s a rail bridge. The rail line runs through the valley, with a station not far from Oboke.

After checking in, storing the bikes, showering and laundering, we went exploring. Up the road we sound a white water rafting centre alongside this monument.

We found a shrine.

We found a graveyard of motorbikes, some stacked side by side, others stacked laterally.

A cute sign, but not sure what the 74.2 means.

Tony was keen to get down to the water. We did find a series of very steep steps that appear to not be used very often. my knee did creak.

I’m lagging behind in the descent.

Returning back up the steps, we discovered this adventure playground for adrenaline junkies. There are some seriously freaky challenges here, and I said BUCKET! (Zwift friends will understand🙈🤣).

A pretty garden, not sure if it was a commercial business or home.

The bear and I.

Back to the accomodation. can you pick our room?

Dinner was 7 pm. A set 13 course menu to be eaten in order. There were a lot of bowls and dishes in front of us as we figured out what to tackle next. We had two hot pots cooking, and the rings indicate items to be brought from the kitchen.

We waddled to our room. We might need all that tucker as tomorrow is the Queens stage of this tour. For non cycling readers, this means the day with the most climbing, highest altitude.

That will be a true test for me, but we have all day and the weather looks good. There should, be some good photos tomorrow.

Tony is ready for bed….he is modelling the provided gowns. Many people wore these to dinner tonight.

Thanks for reading. Another day, another adventure, another 80 km done and dusted. Smile on 😊❣️