Day 16: Doubtful Sound

Today was magic. A trip and life highlight.

We were not scheduled to ride today. It was one of our two planned days off the bike.

When I researched and planned I determined Milford Sound was not a suitable riding route due to tourist traffic volume, narrow verges, amount of climbing and not being able to leave early enough to miss the highway of traffic heading in.

Then I discovered Doubtful Sound. I had not heard of it before.

Doubtful Sound is the largest of New Zealand’s fiords.

Captain James Cook sighted the entrance on his first voyage in 1770.

Unlike its more famous neighbour Milford Sound, you can’t drive there. It is remote. Hence there are less visitors. It was sounding very appealing in so many ways.

Cycle touring you do not tend to be around lots of people. We become satisfied with our own company, or the company of just a few people, and masses does our head in.

This map shows Milford further north. The blue dot is our current location.Doubtful Sound area with the red tag.

The Sound spans an amazing 40 km from the head of the fiord to the Tasman sea. It is the deepest of New Zealand’s 14 fiords.

The Maori named the fiord Patea, meaning place of silence.

After an early breakfast we walked down to Pearl Harbour.

By 7.30 am we were boarded on our first boat trip, sitting upstairs, out the back.

Closer up map. We need to cross Lake Manapouri, the western arm. This takes one hour.

We then transfer via bus across the top of Wilmot Pass down to the shores of the Sound. This also takes one hour. We manage to sit directly up and behind the driver scoring good views out the front window.

We will spend 2.5 hours on the next boat and travel out to the Tasman Sea and explore various arms.

Then a further two hours returning via bus and boat to,our starting point.

Here we go, looking back at Pearl harbour.

Looking forward, the weather forecast is great. We’ve got very lucky given tomorrow’s forecast.

Here are a series of photos crossing Lake Manapouri. Visually stunning.

We reach the western arm, also the power station base that powers much of South Island. The only sign of man’s invasion really. However, as a result of this a road was constructed. That means tourists can get to the Sound.

A series of photos from the Sound are next. We sit upstairs and outside again to maximise our views.

The fiord was carved out during the glacial age. A marine reserve rich with fur seals, penguins, visited by various whales and sharks seeking a feed.

The amount of wow’s was high. We were super gob smacked.

Owned by the same company, Real NZ, this is the overnight boat
Tasman Sea
Tasman Sea
Fur seals on the rocks at the entrance to the fiord.

It was such a joyeous privilege today. It is not a cheap excursion, but one I’d highly recommend.

Near the finish, we entered an arm and all motors turned off for five minutes. We were asked to not talk, take photos, but to think and reflect.

It was incredible. What a moment. 😊❣️

Back on the bus for an hour, we stopped at the top of Wilmot Pass. This is looking back down on Doubtful Sound, our last view.

We travelled the length of the sound to the Tasman Sea and return.

This is a sad story about a young bloke during the building of this road. His wife was due to give birth in Invercargill. As no options were available to get there quickly, he walked. He had not checked the explosion detonation schedule and was killed at Wilmot Pass.

Beautiful vegetation.

Further down the Pass, we stopped again for another view, but this drew our curiosity, There were two touring cyclists.

Tony tried to engage with them but they gave him nothing. Later we researched and discovered you can apply for a permit to ride the section we did by bus, but then?

Back on the final boat I gaze back out towards the area of the Sound. It was an emotionally uplifting experience. The sheer, unadulterated beauty.

An extraordinary day.

Tomorrow, 200 mm of rain is forecast for the Sound. How lucky did we get?

Do yourself a favour. Come to this part of the world, go to Doubtful Sound, stay at Murrell House, you won’t be sorry.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 12: Lake Hawea to Makarora

When the clouds lifted a little, we realised it had snowed on the upper peaks.

Lake Hawea has beautiful vistas.

We were riding towards Haast today, mountain country. The clouds were over most of the peaks, but as the skies lifted, it was amazing.

We rate today’s ride in our likely top 10 rides ever. We’ve done a few too.

The views were incredible and seem closer than photos indicate, and we could see the snow vs the clouds easily.

The road, well, it is a busy tourist route. Well formed, minimal verge and fast.

We just hope that the cars behave. Most gave us a wide gap.

Lake Hawea was to our right.

There were hills. One was tougher and longer with an extended 10% section but we were comfortable enough.

This is looking back towards the town of Lake Hawea.

The views kept us amazed.

Heading down this hill and bearing left, we are heading towards Lake Wanaka.

Then this! A herd of cattle being moved down the road. Mums and their calves. The mums were very noisy with the calves trotting behind them to keep up with mum.

We rode to the left of that little calf. Cars moved slowly through as the cows dispersed.

The mess on the road was significant.

Climb again and we leave Lake Hawea.

The Neck, a higher point between the two lakes.

Lake Wanaka.

We stopped at this roadside viewpoint and were quickly joined by three other cycle tourers.

The guy on the left is from Switzerland, having started his ride in the far north, Cape Reinga heading to the Bluff. He has been riding 35 days or so. Wanaka was his next overnight stay.

The couple on the right are from Austria and were heading over Haast Pass to the West coast.

They were loving the area and scenery, coming from very mountainous countries themselves. They did note that the whilst the mountains are quite high the roads here don’t go as high as theirs so you don’t get to ride the dizzy heights.

You can see another group behind us. The man in white asked to take a photo of the five of us. We all laughed but agreed.

On we headed with Lake Wanaka on our left.

Lots of mountains and snow on the upper peaks.

Waterfall Creek, aptly named.

Looking back towards Wanaka.

Looking to the direction of our destination.

Another creek that flows under the road into the lake.

Just glorious.

Lake Wanaka ended and it was the Makarora River to our far left, that feeds into the lake.

We noted many deer farms.

More cyclists touring.

We stopped at a cafe some 5 km before our accommodation. Super nice, and this is the resident dog that sat with us.

The food was nice, and likely where we will go for breakfast tomorrow, but they do not open until 9 am, so we will start later. That’s fine, if the weather behaves. There is some rain forecast, but we will see.

We stopped here as Tony was leaking some tyre sealant. This time, the hole needed two plugs then it sealed fine.

I was horrified by the trophy hunting sign. This farm had a paddock of male deer, and a few paddocks with I presume females. How that works with trophy hunting I am not sure, but farm raised animals for trophies? I find it sad.

I’ve done too much work in and around abattoirs as part of my job and it has affected my mind set on animal killings.

A final view before our overnight stay.

We arrived early and have had a chilled afternoon. Good to relax as I am carrying an injury/issue and hopefully this will help.

That’s it today folks. This is an out and back section, so hoping for more good weather tomorrow to see it all again from the reverse perspective.

Thanks for reading .

😊❣️

We have covered some ground in this area now, noting the orange are where we have ridden before, from our Strava data.

Day 9: Lawrence to Roxburgh

Just as we were about to leave, I took these photos of the little garden adjacent to our cottage. A very peaceful garden setting,.

Back onto the gravel paths of the Clutha Gold Trail, the first sight of interest was this house. The Chinese gold miners had a settlement in the area. There are efforts afoot to recreate more houses based upon old photos.

Quirky.

Just the one tunnel today, 434 m in length. A warning sign indicated there was a structure to avoid midway, which we did manage to do with our lights on. So much better with my sunglasses off today too 🙈🤣

Heading out of the tunnel that was the top of our first climb. An easy climb given we are on an old rail line.

There is a passport available for you to collect stamps, if that appeals.

I guess you’d need a pencil or crayon handy! Can’t say we have either in our must carry list.

An old shed, with pathway stretching ahead.

I’m sure there is a story here. That would have taken some concerted effort to mount.

There were only two settlements near today’s ride. The first was Beaumont about 20 km in.

Leaving the official pathway, we crossed over the fast flowing Clutha River, to find the pub. Coffee time. We were served by a young lady from Colorado, now living here permanently.

Back over an older railway bridge, the river is a lovely colour.

The Clutha River is the second longest river in New Zealand, and the longest in the South Island. It flows out of Lake Wanaka (we will be there in a few days) and drains into the Pacific Ocean, south of Dunedin.

A nicely designed information board.

The path followed the river quite closely, undulating and weaving. Sometimes old rail line, others local roads or newly created paths.

We had the path to ourselves today for many hours . Very quiet and peaceful.

We detoured to visit an old bridge, The Horseshoe Bend Bridge. It has an interesting history, and the current bridge is the modern firm. Kids used to sit in a flying foxlike contraption in an earlier version and have to pull themselves across to go to school.

Back onto the main track, and we hit the 100 km point for the trail, which we started at lunchtime yesterday. Each and every km there has been a guidepost.

Just before Millers Flat (a small town) we crossed a waterway near the river. It appears to be subjected to flooding.

Keen for some decent food, Millers Flat disappointed. We saw numerous cyclists here, starting and finishing trail sections. Real food is not available but what an opportunity.

Cold drinks it was.

The last section to Roxburgh was very scenic.

We left the trail at this bridge, as our overnight is in the town of Roxburgh. At the top of a very steep hill, of course!! We often joke, accommodation is always at the top of a hill after a days riding.

67 km today, mostly gravel, mostly headwind, mostly fun and awesome adventures.

We noted that Tony had two punctures today. We run tubeless tyres and the sealant did what it was meant to and sealed the hole. The evidence was some sealant hitting his legs and part of the bike frame, hence why he stopped to check.

The only place open for dinner tonight was the local Chinese joint. Not even the pub was open. We both ordered special rice and it was the largest rice dishes I have ever seen. We could have shared one and still not go through it.

Guess what is for breakfast 🤣

On our walk back we can across this, situated right outside the public toilets. Interesting references to the significance of gold mining in the region.

Our map is taking shape as we cover off more southern ground.

An easy day climbing wise.

Well time for me to get some sleep. We intend to leave earlier as we have a commitment at 10.15 am that we cannot be late for.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 3: Arrowtown to Muttontown

What a beautiful day. I opened the curtain by our bed and looked out. This first photo is looking out that window.

Looking out the door of the bus.

We headed out of Arrowtown following the Arrow River on the Arrow River trail.

It was a great track, well compacted gravel that undulated.

Fantastic views wherever we looked.

Steamy mist rising from the wet grasses,

The bridges were something else today. They just get it done here!

Looking back on the bridge we had just crossed.

I have bare legs today for the first time this trip. I’m still well rugged up with upper layers…short sleeve body vest, jersey, gilet and jacket.

Tony removed his leg warmers at the bridge, it was already warming up nicely.

Here they built a bridge under the car bridge just for cyclists and walkers.

Another bridge. Edgar bridge is quite long. Another suspension bridge with a fair sway as we both crossed.

Looking back at Edgar.

Kawarau bridge was our first lengthy stop today. It was where the world’s first commercial bungy jumping operations commenced.

Looking down the river.

Customers pay $395 to leap off.

For a silly price still, but a far cheaper alternative, you could just buy this shirt.

More my style, a swing, but still a few hundred dollars.

I did find it interesting to read the history.

The history of bungy jumping is believed to have started on Pentecost Island in Vanuatu.

People would create ropes from vines and launch themselves.

Originally only women jumped. It was an annual fertility ritual held during the yam festival. The Christian missionaries put a stop to it as they were offended by naked women hanging upside down and demanded that only men be permitted.

When AJ Hackett opened this site in 1988, 28 people paid $75 each. Now they get hundreds every day paying $395.

We then followed the Gibbston River trail for far too short a section as they’ve closed most of it off whilst they extend the trail.

We were then on the Gibbston Highway for 22 km. Most of it had a small to reasonable verge but was very busy with lots of traffic.

Behind me you can see a portion of closed trail,

This is where they are cutting through currently. There were excavators, a dynamite storage unit and a lot of work ahead as they cut through the rock.

Part of a gold mining museum site where we stopped for an ice cold iced coffee. We were pretty hot and sweaty.

The Lake Dunstan trail looked promising from the start. We were heading about 4 km beyond Clyde.

Pretty poppies.

Well formed paths and retainers.

Great additions to the bridges.

Undulating.

Great views.

Getting narrower. Many of these bolt on decks are on this trail. Over 400 m I think I read.

Our bike computer had indicated a climb ahead. It turned out to be very gnarly and testing.

There is a coffee boat at the base of the climb. Might be more tempting after descending. Not sure I’d retain it ascending.

No more bolt on decks around cliffs. We headed up via this section.

And up. The couple a few bends down we chatted to at the top. The lady is on an mtb ebike and did not raise a sweat. Her words.

I did raise a sweat. It got narrow, loose and slippery, my wheels spun and the front lifted a few times. I felt scared, so I pushed until the trail got to an incline I felt safer and competent riding.

There were multiple narrow hair pin bends the higher we ascended. Even Tony pushed his bike for a few sections.

Finally the top.

Incredible engineering to prevent a landslide into the Lake, that apparently would cause an internal tsunami wiping out towns lower down and take out the dam at Clyde.

Another Hugo bridge. More climbing.

This trail tested us with two gnarly climbs on our loaded bikes. Mtb e-bikes were the super common bikes up here, and I was glad I did not meet one at the very narrow sections where it is barely wide enough for one bike, as you look left down the drop off.

This section had a fence…only one that I saw.

We arrived in Clyde, and were now below Lake Dunstan.

We grabbed some food at a supermarket and headed to our farm accomodation out of town.

Getting our washing done and hanging it in the sunshine, only to have it soaked when the big sprinklers popped up and drenched it.

Hair dryers and fans going now to dry it all ready for tomorrow.

What a day. 90 km and over 1000 m climbing.

The two gnarly climbs are the two steep spikes at around 65 and 75 km.

We need to do these next week heading back. Something to look forward to 🤪

We are feeling weary tonight. Three solid days climbing in the legs. The next two days are easier climbing wise.

What an amazing set of trails in this region of New Zealand. They set a tough standard for Australia who are years behind.

Tomorrow we hit the Otago trail, another tourism attractor for the region.

Stay tuned, thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 35: Copenhagen

Finale! It’s all over for now.

3,267 km is our final trip tally. We think we’ve done ok all things considered.

The most important number is zero. Zero injuries, no spills, we both stayed upright for the whole 3,267 km.

Thanks to no spills and Tony’s continuing good bike maintenance, our total mechanical issues were…one puncture, and one bike pump failure.

To finish off, we had had half a day free where we could ride before cleaning and packing the bikes up to transport back to Australia.

We headed off early, hoping to ‘beat the tourists’ despite being ones ourselves.

We followed the coast up from Kastrup and were intrigued by the water polo nets in the canal. We saw similar in Roskilde. Both canals with lots of green, stringy algae like growths.

Looking towards Sweden, there were wind turbines at sea, with a ship passing by.

The city ahead, with a healthy headwind.

From the south, we pass through Christianshavn and Margretholm.

Then on into the very famous Nyhavn famous since the 17th century as a trading port. Today it is a vibrant entertainment area and the subject of many a jigsaw puzzle!

Then on into the Kastallet, a citadel and regarded as one of the best preserved fortresses in Northern Europe.

It has a pentagon shape with bastions at each corner.

Today it is a military sight, evident when there as we encountered a few armed guards, super friendly, chatty and waving us through.

A borrowed aerial view.

As we approached an ornate fountain.

Two views from the fountain.

Queen Margrethe II father
Across the bridge looking back at an armed guards

A couple of old buildings from the 1700’s used by higher ranking officers.

Former soldiers barracks

Then we headed out, looking back to another armed guard.

Perhaps the most photographed statue in Copenhagen, the little mermaid. I watched with amusement at a certain ethnic group taking selfies and photos, but making sure their hair was just ‘so so’ and dropping the hip. 😊

Just around the corner a larger, seemingly less popular statue.

All up we rode 46 km through Copenhagen so the following are a sequential series of views.

We could have taken hundreds of photographs as Copenhagen is a particularly photogenic city with incredible architecture and curios.

The entrance to Amalienborg Palace

Amalienborg is the official residence of the Danish Royal family.

The complex has four identical smaller structures laid around an octagonal courtyard.

Originally built for four noble families, today Queen Mary and family occupy one, Queen Margrethe II another, with two to spare.

Guards on duty outside Queen Mary’s palace

More city views.

I think this is lovely despite the Thai Airways signage. If it rains, the man pops out with his umbrella. Today it was the lady on the bike.

We stopped for coffee here. Just about broke the bank but we enjoyed the view.

A group of school children were netting in the river. They brought in lots of free, stringy algae like growth. They really seemed to be enjoying it, but they moved on when a couple of the lads lost interest and started jousting with their poles.

A bird island devoid of any greenery.

We kept on cycling….

We rode through Freetown, a very bohemian and hip and alternative area just km from the city heart. It was green, lush and lots of little cottages tucked away.

Then there was this curiosity. I guess you can watch yourself be electrocuted in the electric chair, fire extinguisher handy. 🤣

We ended up finishing this trip the same way we started. We found another Thomas Dambo troll. Little kids come to hand over their dummies here, scattered everywhere!

Cycling in Denmark is like nowhere else we have ever cycled. At roundabouts there are clear cycling lanes and ALL drivers give way to you.

We have not seen one angry driver or cyclist. It just works!

A few Internet examples.

Cyclists also get a head start at some intersections with cycling specific lights.

It was an amazing experience to see in action.

Denmark has a population of 6 million with 1.4 million in Copenhagen. If they can do it, Australia could too.

Many of their roads are one lane each way, with a dedicated walking path and dedicated cycling path, often on both sides of the road.

It works!

That brings me to the end of this cycling touring trip. We now head to Switzerland for a few days, before returning to Copenhagen for one night, collect all our gear, and head home.

We return Sunday, I am back at work the next day 😝🙈.

Thankyou to those who have read the blog and liked here or on Facebook.

To those who took the extra time to comment, even bigger thanks for your support, encouragement and interest.

Ciao Ciao, Ooroo

😊🚴💪❣️

Day 34: Fredensborg (Denmark) to Copenhagen (Denmark)

Our last full day cycling. Always a surreal feeling after a long touring trip. Many emotions, but we still have another half day tomorrow 😊

We left Fredensborg a bit later due to a later breakfast time there. Very nice sitting in the sun.

We passed this stone indicating a tree planted by the then King in 1940.

Forests have been such a feature this trip, and it was lovely to ride through more today.

Copenhagen is not very far although we did 68 km in total today.
The path quality is excellent

Nice pond as we approached the Frederiksborg Slot (castle).

The castle was built by King Christian IV in the early 17th century. It is the largest Renaissance structure in the Nordic region.

(note: not sure why or how I changed the type font…not sure how to change it back either using my iPad, so it stays 🤩).

Christian’s goal was to show off and enhance his status as a powerful European monarch.

Seems to have achieved his goal as it is impressive, along with the surrounding palace gardens.

I was impressed we could ride right through, over and around the moat.

Today it houses The Museum of Natural History.

Leaving the castle and heading into the town if Hillerod.

More forest. This section of the ride was super popular with many other cyclists out. Conditions were great and there were many large packs, and smaller groups making the most of the day.

As with all tours, ultimately we end up in big cities. In our case, Copenhagen.

There are many distractions.

It’s been a while since we’ve witnessed a good protest. This one was very loud, colourful and featured lots of bikes!

There was heavy metal music being blasted from this colourful truck. Many colourful characters were participating.

We crossed and then followed the river, winding our way around streets, admiring the architecture.

Tomorrow we head back into the city, early, hoping to avoid some of the crowds.

This is a very famous section, Nyhavn. I have a jigsaw puzzle of this.

Trying to find somewhere less ‘busy’ to buy some lunch, sit and chill was not easy. We crossed over to Christianhavn and sat on the edge of this dock.

We stayed here about 90 minutes, chatting with a Dutch family on holidays. Their kids had a large magnet on the end of a rope they were dangling into the water treasure hunting.

Then there was a line up of people who did a group jump into the water. Not sure why, but they got lots of cheers.

We arrived back in Kastrup, where we left 33 days ago. It was five weeks today that we arrived very jet lagged.

Still with half a day to go, we are pleased. We took a rare selfie.

The Pakistani owner could not believe we had ridden over 3,200 km. Where does your energy come from he asked?

I tapped my heart and my head.

❣️

Todays route.

Day 33: Roskilde (Denmark) to Fredensborg (Denmark)

Another glorious day. The sun was shining, blue skies and a robust wind.

We left our Air B and no B(reakfast) early. As I checked for anything we left behind I looked under the bed and realised why I had been coughing so much (asthma cough). The most incredible amount of dust and fluff was there. 😢

We did have a coffee as I had a few sachets in my bag. This place had a coffee maker, coffee but no filters. Filtered coffee has been the rage at nearly all of our accomodation. All other places provided some filters.

Out of town we were heading towards the north coast of the island of Zealand.

The roads were quiet and the rural ones delightful.

The Roskilde Fjord was in our view for much of the way, however distant.

Jyllinge has a nice marina area, thatched houses and a supermarket where we sourced food.

This sign was at the supermarket. There had been some in Roskilde too. An upcoming cycle event.

We were on a wide variety of paths today. These were lovely.

Frederikssund also has a large marina. We rode through a different part to yesterday, following the waterfront.

We stumbled across the Frederikssund Vikingeboplads. This is a historically accurate, reconstructed village based on archeological finds in the region.

The fjord waterfront is a smaller pebble beach here.

A nice boat reconstruction.

We continue north with an easterly angle. The winds are becoming gustier.

I do love these open fields.

The ubiquitous church.

We hit the north coast and ride through Troldeskoven, a lovely forest adjacent to the beach.

We dragged our bikes through some sand and parked them to check out the beach.

The beaches along the northern section were predominantly a nice white sand. There were multiple eateries along the way, selling burgers, icecream and drinks,

I liked this section of road. Two good verges to cycle either way, plus the lovely boat houses.

Around Gilleleje

As we sat on a chair overlooking the coast, we could see across to Sweden, far more clearly than you can in this photo. I recognised Molle, a town we went through a few weeks ago.

Around here we started to work our way south, direct into a gusty headwind.

Nice old building from 1608.

Esrum So (Lake Esrum), is the largest lake in Denmark by water volume. Our destination, Fredensborg is on the south eastern shore.

It is a little hard to miss the Palace from our accomodation.

Our hotel was built in 1723 on the orders of King Frederik IV, with the purpose of being able to accomodate the guests invited by the king, who could not stay at the castle.

At the time, the castle was deliberately not furnished with guest rooms, therefore the Kings guests had to stay at the inn.

We went for a wander in the Palace grounds. The palace is not open to tourists but there are parts of the grounds you can access.

Former Queen Margrethe II lives here more permanently in her retirement. Queen Mary and family, this is their summer house.

We found out from a guard that the church was open today. So we wandered in further. Tony saw the queue and said ‘this is not happening Penry” so we turned around, (Penry is a reference to my middle name).

We wandered into the Palace gardens. They are huge. We found this house and plaque.

Tsar Alexander III bought this villa in 1885. His wife, empress Maria was a Danish princess ( Dagmar). He had it carved into a Faberge egg gifted to his wife,

His son who became Tsar Nicholas II, later executed by the Bolshevik’s, carved his name in a window pane, along with his English cousins ( George V).

The house is privately owned today.

We turned around and decided to walk down to the lake via one of the Long Walks.

You can just see the long walk between trees.

The lake is lovely, featuring a large boathouse and restaurant.

Back to our hotel, the Yaxley flags are flying. The washing dried very quickly in the sun and wind.

We had pre booked at the bistro without any idea of prices. Small menu, big prices, fancy food. We gulped….we were a bit stuck as we were seated so just picked a main course and closed my eyes as I pressed green on the machine approving payment.

The meal was quite nice but…..😝🙈

105 km ridden today, 582 metres climbing.

We only have one full day, and one part day riding left to go.

A latter breakfast will ensure a later departure as we head to Copenhagen.

Thankyou for reading.

Day 32: Roskilde loop (Denmark)

A glorious morning in Roskilde, saw us heading off to the local shops as we are at another B and no B. Not sure why they call themselves a Bed and Breakfast if there is no breakfast.

Anyhow today we were doing a circuit around Roskilde Fjord plus a little add on.

The fjord has many arms and bays.

This is a large pond!

Nice houses in quiet villages.

Gershoj Kirke has a history going back to the 12th century.

Adjacent half wooden buildings.

Lovely view towards the fjord.

This trip we have seen plenty of poppies popping up in other crops. This is a nice example.

This is a farm, Krabbesholm. Hard to see, but there is a nice tower there.

We rode through Skibby and Gerlev, crossing the fjord to head into Frederikssund. It was very blowy and we knew we would have fun on our return leg.

We stopped for an iced coffee and nibbles, sitting in the sun, before heading off to complete the loop.

Distant views of the fjord.

The lump of land is Bolund Halvorsens and is part of the Skjoldungernes Land National Park. I am sure there might be some Viking stories there.

The final 10 km into Roskilde the fjord became noticeably shallower around the shorelines.

That is Roskilde ahead, with the Viking museum to the left.

We headed to our accomodation as Tony wanted to replace his brake pads. Whilst he did that I researched another Thomas Dambo troll, only 7 km away.

Off we headed. The path below is ok for bikes I had read.

That is very steep and no bike of ours is going down there.

Walking was hard enough. The troll was less than 50 meters away as we could see his fishing rod.

There he is. Rundie Rie is his name. You can swing off his fishing rope and into the lake, formed after the closure of an old quarry.

Back to Roskilde finished our riding for the day. 82 km and nearly 500 metres climbing.

We then started walking. Roskilde Cathedral was the second thing I wanted to see this trip.

Roskilde Cathedral is Denmark’s royal burial church. It is UNESCO listed.

The first church was built here circa 1033 by King Harald Bluetooth. The cathedral was built about 1200 and was the first Gothic edifice in Scandinavia.

The church was originally Catholic but since the Reformation in 1536, it has been Lutheran.

Forty kings and queens are buried here. There are over 1,000 people of nobility buried below floor level in crypts. Since 1805 only royals are buried here now.

Frederick IX ( current King’s grandfather) and Queen Ingrid wanted to be buried in dirt. This exterior closed off section was constructed.

Just outside the main front door are nice old buildings.

The front door seemed a bit ghoulish to me.

The other side of the same door, but from the inside.

This is interesting. Queen Margrethe II has had a sepulchral monument created years ago in readiness for her passing. A crypt has been excavated below the monument where the coffin will be placed.

The monument cannot be viewed until she is laid to rest, but it is glass, containing effigies of her and husband Prince Henrik.

Henrik changed his mind the year before he passed and was cremated. So Margrethe will be the sole crypt occupier.

The blue, pink, yellow cover is covering the monument.

Plenty of other chapels with ornate coffins, walls, ceilings.

This is the tomb of Christian IX and Queen Louise, parents of Queen Alexandra of Great Britain ( wife of Edward VII, son of Queen Victoria).

Queen Margrethe I who united Denmark, Norway and Sweden in the Kalmar Union.

Lovely and more simply decorated vaulted ceilings, creating a lighter and airier looking church.

There are many beautifully carved, but heavily worn tombstone slabs adorning the floor. I try and dodge around them.

Frescoes on the ceilings in one of the many chapels, all containing more ornate coffins and statues.

Having tested Tony’s patience with my history interests, he got out in one piece!

The Cathedral and museum are worth visiting.

As we walked back to the fjord, a modern house peaked our interest with the multiple roof lines and angles.

Another day. Not many left. We are so close to Copenhagen but have a few things still to ride to.

Thanks for joining us.

Day 31: Aarhus (Denmark) to Roskilde (Denmark)

Starting off with the evening before.

Deb and I. Tony and I cycled to their accomodation. I was hybrid in my clothing, wearing a dress, cycle jacket to keep warm and I slipped riding knicks on under the dress. Here we are just heading home at about 9.15 pm. You can seen how light it still is!

Group photo. Eight Tasmania, six from Launceston plus from the NW Coast. Karen at lower right is the Danish local hosting the Launcestonians.

It was great to have this opportunity.

We had a ferry to catch to cross from Jutland to Zealand (Danish islands) It was a six km ride.

We had to photograph this as we ride through the city early morning.

The views were lovely, indicating it was going to be another great day.

On board, we grabbed some food and enjoyed the views. The crossing took 1 hour 20 and was Molslinjen line, the company we used to transfer to and from Bornholm Island four weeks ago.

Doors open, we need to make our way out with the cars here. We followed the Porsche as the white car behind waved us on.

Turns out we would have been better on the other side of the hold to exit as there was a cycle path to leave the ferry and head out. Trying to cross three lanes cars exiting was impossible so rode with them, gradually working to the right hand side.

Within a few km, we were on quiet lanes, some dirt. It is very pretty here, lots of holiday homes stretching across the small peninsula.

We got to see both sides.

We needed to get changed. When we left for the ferry it was 6c. We needed stand around at the terminal for about 45 minutes too. Now it was sunny and about 14c so we found a spot to get changed.

I liked the position of this holiday home

This was our first small hill of the day. We climbed 600 metres today, lower than the last few days, but enough to keep us warm.

This is in the northern side.

Here I come….nice back drop.

Lots of little villages with interesting buildings.

This little house is for the ducks.

A road blockage in this town to install modern cobbles.

We found a roadside shop hoping for lunch but their choices were limited to pizza and icecream so we grabbed a drink. They had these cute little bikes for kids.

An old man with a walking frame was dropped off by a taxi. The young lady working there told me this happens a few times a week. He lives in an aged care facility and he’s dropped off to stay there a few hours.

The girl is not related, quite young, and he likes to sit and talk to her whilst she works. She rolled here eyes, and I think you need to question the appropriateness of this action by his carers. Seems an abrogation of the duty of care as he can hardly move.

Sad really..

This church sans white paint.

We found a roadside supermarket on the outskirts of Holbaek to buy some lunch and sit on some grass. Banana, canned coffee and chia and mango.

Closing in on Roskilde, the roads were busier, but with a cycle path. We had been riding some verge for a distance. The views are still lovely.

Wind turbines still a constant feature. We did have a head wind for the second half but welcomed it as the temperature was over 20c. This is the warmest weather we have experienced all trip. I did see 24c on my computer!

We found our accomodation easily, directly over the road from the Viking Museum, one of two things I wanted to visit.

We are here for two nights.

Roskilde was the centre of Danish power around the year 1000. The Viking Age (750-1100 AD) was characterised by large scale trading and raiding expeditions.

Roskilde was not fortified but had natural protection being at the base of the Roskilde fjord.

Given its power, wealth and position it was one of the most important towns in the Viking age.

We headed over to the Museum to learn more. It cost about 380 k for two.

The outside exhibits are all free. In fact, public land as we watched cyclists ride through.

There are an extensive assortment of reconstructed Viking boats, using the same techniques as the Vikings.

Here they are building a new Vikung boat
This new boat is being built for a Viking museum in the USA. Guess it’ll cost more now with the Danish tariff and not handing over Greenland.

The Museum exhibits five Viking boats with an interesting history.

To protect Roskilde, a system of barriers were established in the fjord at Skuldelev, 20 km from Roskilde. Their purpose was to ensure traffic control in the inner reaches of the fjord and to product the town from attacking forces.

Warning of hostile fleets were likely given by signal fires, acting as beacons, strategically placed at Kattegat, to Isefjord and down the coast to Roskilde fjord.

Five older boats were scuttled in one of the three channels as a barrier. These were discovered by divers in the 1950’s and carefully retrieved in the early 1960’s.

It was interesting watching a film about their retrieval and preservation.

Only portions remain, some more intact than others given their 960 years underwater.

The museum was constructed to house the five Viking boats, and to tell their story.

Back outside I clambered into one of the new reconstructions to check it out.

We had some dinner at a restaurant fjorside and wandered around the car and motorbike show that seemed to have appeared from nowhere.

As we tried to sleep, the lads from the show were racing up the road in their cars and motorbikes making a huge noise. Fortunately we fell asleep easily.

Today’s route after the ferry. 92 km today and we are now at 2960 km total.

Day 30: Viborg (Denmark) to Aarhus (Denmark)

Cracker of a morning as we woke and looked out our window.

We were keen and had a cruisey day ahead of us so we decided to ride around Viborg and hunt something in particular out.

We headed along the lake, one of two in Viborg.

The Royal Run was held only last weekend with Tasmania’s Queen Mary, and the rest of her family all participating. I think Mary ran the 5 km. The event is held in various locations around Denmark.

It is a lovely lake.

We headed inland to an old quarry site to look for Thomas Dambo troll, Elle.

It was a little hard to miss her once we got there. She is huge and has a large boulder in her arms.

I think one of these in Central Coast Council off the shared pathway would be wonderful. Dambo has a global troll map,showing about six in Mandurah Western Australia.

Aarhus Cathedral was started in the last decades of the 12th century but not finished until 1350. Only portions of the original cathedral still exist, with significant works in the 1400’s.

At 93 metres in length, it is the longest church in Denmark.

Statue outside the cathedral

Leaving the cathedral we headed down an older street.

Turning right to descend a hill, with older style cobbles. Everything shakes, I crawl down.

A closer look at what I’m talking about. The gaps, the unevenness, all contribute to a massive shakeup of rider and bike. Thankfully they are not wet!

Back at river level now, we have more lake views, and look back up to the cathedral where at a distance you can see how significant it is vs being closer up.

Today’s route was fantastic. We were on mainly quiet, rural roads with little traffic. The roads undulating, and in very good condition.

A variety of housing styles were seen.

Love the thatched roof houses.

Tree lined roads.

The occasional country church.

Vindum Kirke dates back to the 1150’s

This house is for sale.

It has numerous bird boxes on the end profile.

Then there was this. Physics in action?

We came across an Energy Museum at a hydro power station. There were tour buses and a conga line of young children there. Tasmania surely could do similar with its significant history in hydro power.

Looking back towards the station, where we had ridden across a bridge.

The path was a neat gravel, and fairly dry.

Two families of geese nearby unimpressed with us disturbing their day.

Looking towards the lake, it is a pretty sight, with a nature lovers viewing area.

We turned left, and To y turned around asking what I was doing to him?

Yes ok, it’s a bit muddy as I pushed my bikes around a few hundred metres of muddy puddles from recent rains.

Fortunately for me, my mapping reputation was shortly restored.

We turned right here, back o to sealed road. Nice farm buildings.

We passed quite a few paddocks of small conifers planted very close together. We did wonder if they were young Christmas trees?

Another country church.

Quirky art for the day.

Denmark has a lot of wind turbines. This group had the eagle on a rope. Is that to scare the birds away from the blades? If so, seems a simple solution if it works.

Random roadside placement of a Frederick.

We rode through many forests today. We do love a good forest!

We appreciate the quietness the countryside brings.

However, urban riding goes hand in hand with touring. Unavoidable and soon enough we are on the outskirts of Aahaus.

This is a bus shelter, one of many decorated ones in this particular area.

We were hunting again, for another troll. Meet Simon, who is cradling a damaged Anine. This troll was damaged many years ago in a storm, and appears poor Anine has suffered a similar fate. Simon attempts to restore her.

Troll count now 3!

Despite our attempt to take our time today, we arrived in Aahaus 2.5 hours ahead of check in.

We wandered around and cooled our heels waterside.

After checking in, showering we wandered more locally.

Many art works adorn walls.

This was my favourite.

Half wooden houses in the older part of town.

This cute little street with cottages was really pleasant.

Random statue

Our accomodation is an old merchant home building from the 1600’s and dates amongst the oldest buildings in Aahaus today.

Tony lugged our bikes up those steep steps. They had a narrow tread, and I descended in reverse!

The view looking down from our lodgings.
How it looked yesteryear.

We were treated to another social occasion. Six Tasmanians are in Aahaus cycling currently. So we got to have dinner with them. I knew the three ladies, all from Launceston.

Deb goes back to my track and field days as teenagers, Leaha through work, Janice through my former dental surgery days.

A photo will be forthcoming as evidence of eight Tasmanians together in Aahaus. That’s something to celebrate.

What a great day. All up we rode 96 km and climbed 800 metres. Nice weather to boot!