Cycling Adventures in Queenstown: A Journey Through New Zealand’s Trails

New Zealand has been a favourite haunt of ours for numerous years now. This week we head off again – this will be my eight trip across the Ditch since December 2017.

The destination this trip is Queenstown, in the far South Island.

We will be undertaking around 17 days riding, over 1400 km and lots of climbing (14,000 metres mapped, but invariably it turns out to be less than what the maps say). It is not our usual looking map with a few in and outs – the goal was to tick off the major cycle trails in the south, and that has been achieved.

The red lines to the right are where we have ridden previously as part of Alps to Ocean.

17 days riding plus 2 non cycling days days.

3 boat transfers including a speed boat down a gorge that caters for cyclists.

We will commence in Queenstown, arriving later on Wednesday night. Our anchor location is a B&B not far from the airport but some 8 km from central Queenstown.

On Friday the bikes will be reassembled and will undergo a short test ride. Weather permitting, we hope to go into central Queenstown and ‘catch’ the gondola up the mountain for a bird’s eye view of the region.

Skyline Queenstown stock photo image – if we can see a view like this, that will be great.

From Queenstown, we head off on Day 1 to Glenorchy, a smaller town at the northern end of Lake Wakatipu. We will follow the Dart River for a while, returning to Glenorchy for the night.

Day 1 planned map. Over 1200 metres climbing for our first day, no warming up like we usually do.

http://www.Experiencequeenstown.com photo of Glenorchy, looking back down Lake Wakatipu where will have ridden along. The weather will be as glorious – I hope….

Back to Queenstown and up to Arrowtown, regarded as one of New Zealands most picturesque towns. The town is named after the river Arrow, established during the gold rush in the 1860’s.

Firstlighttravel.com photo below. I am pretty sure we wont have snow at Arrowtown next week. Whilst the weather has been cooler ‘down there’ it is starting to warm up.

Notwithstanding, all our winter gear is being packed – same as what we took to Scandinavia earlier this year. Be prepared!

From Arrowtown we hit the trails to Alexandra and then onto the Otago Central Rail trail to Ranfurly and Middlemarch.

This rail trail was one of the attractors for this trip. It is a 152 km cycle route along a former rail line and referred to as the original Great Ride, being in existence now for over two decades.

Wanderlust photo – seems like modern power lines head through this section, but great views otherwise.

Trailhub.co.nz photo of the converted rail bridge on the trail:

We then head to Dunedin for two nights. The second day will be a day trip around the region, concluding with dinner with a friend Norm and his wife – not seen Norm for well over 30 years, when we both lived in Melbourne.

Dunedin is the second largest city in the South Island (after Christchurch) and the name comes from Dun Eidann, the Scottish Gaelic name for Edinburgh.

The concept for our day trip – very tweakable if we feel tired, or the weather is inclement.

After Dunedin we head to Lawrence, Roxburgh and Bannockburn along the Clutha Gold trails. Between Roxburgh and Bannockburn we are booked on the 10.30am jet boat transfer along the river, where a section of trail is not yet completed. Certainly not a cheap transfer at $280 but well set up for bikes (Photo Newzealand.com).

We then weave up past Lake Dunstan and onto Lake Hawea and Makarora, where we are hoping to get down to the Blue Pools (weseektravel.com)

We then head back towards Queenstown via Wanaka. From Queenstown we have an early morning crossing of Lake Wakatipu, cycling then from the famous Walter Peak High Country farm through the mountains and down to the Fiordland National Park.

Milford Sound is THE most popular day trip in the region, and certainly I spent time examining the cycle route in and out. It is a narrow road, no verge, lots and lots of tourist vehicles including buses and vans travelling in each day. Leaving early, we would not ‘beat’ the conga line of vehicles. It is also quite a hilly route. We would need to allow a minimum of three days all up.

Whilst researching the area, I discovered Doubtful Sound. We are spending two nights in Manapouri, with our ‘rest’ day spent doing a day trip to Doubtful Sound.

We will travel across Lake Manapouri by boat, transfer into a 4WD vehicle to go through mountainous terrain, arriving at Doubtful Sound, where we will spend a few hours touring on a boat (Newzealand.com)

Captain James Cook was the first British explorer to discover the sound, and he sailed past, refusing to enter the sound because the fjords height made it ‘doubtful’ he would get enough wind to sail back out.

Doubtful Sound is the second largest fiord in Fiordland National Park, over 400 metres deep and stretching for 40 kilometres. It is three times longer than Milford Sound.

Hoping for good weather again – in fact, each and every day!

We then have a short day on the bike riding to Te Anau, where we have another rest day – maybe the glow worm caves?

Finally we we head back to Queenstown via the mountains to Walter Peak Farm, and an awaiting boat transfer to Queenstown.

We think this trip looks pretty cool and interesting and look forward to those readers who join us.

Ooroo Australia and Kia Ora Aotearoa.

Fitness and Preparation: Keys to Our Memorable Trip

We had a great trip in May and June. Lots of riding and memories etched into our mind and hearts. I just found this nearly completed blog that I had obviously forgotten to upload back then. Here it is – written predominantly back in June.

We are proud of our resilience and fitness and self belief in undertaking a 3,300 km journey the way we did.

Doing that, yes there are challenges at times that require your resolution versus relying on others to solve problems.

What we gain is flexibility and trust in ourselves to be relatively independent.

We have kept fit since our last trip which is pivotal to the outcome as without that the days would be far less riding.

I am forever thankful for my fitness despite my well documented health challenges.

Success lies in the preparation.

Countless hours researching routes, places, bike friendly accomodation in the 3-12 months prior.

Keeping fit on a daily basis. Zwift is my go to there, where I have made many friends globally.

Bikes being appropriate and well maintained. New tyres, brake pads, chains and carrying appropriate spares including rear derailleur hangers. Thanks to Tony who was regularly lubing the chains and cleaning the bikes,.

Reflection after a trip often includes what changes we would make next time. Every trip we learn something new.

New Zealand at Christmas it was to carry insect repellent. This trip I carried it but not used once. However, reading a post from Tasmanian friends riding in Norway I saw picture of Warren’s face, eaten alive by midges! So the insect repellent will remain on our list.

We have good gear and good clothes. But we will replace one part of Tony’s Tailfin system (front panniers) to a different model that is quicker and easier to put on and off. That will save some cussing 😳🤩.

I read a quote earlier..l

We had some wonderful times and I know a piece of my heart remains behind as I had tears….

Jenny
Cecilia
Rudi
Rudi and Carina
Ralph and Sandra

Not all were humans either.

We’ve been asked what were our favourite areas or countries. That’s like asking which is our favourite child.

We really enjoyed each country, the variations in geography, scenery, foods, cultures and experiences.

Of course, if we had more time you’d see spots that have been suggested we ‘missed’ but then do you discount what we have seen? No not at all.

I particularly loved the Bohuslan Islands.

Then there were the trolls – we had fun looking for them!

The scenery is magnificent – I could upload so many photos – but many are in previous blogs.

In picking these few, I have uploaded over 13,500 onto the WordPress gallery now!

Stay tuned – the reason I was on WordPress was to get it ready for our next adventure starting very, very soon.

Ooroo.

So it begins….

Anzac Day in Australia – a public holiday of remembrance. This is what Tony is up to. Not the best photo angle with the sun glare.

This is Tony’s touring bike now in pieces. Khaleesi is watching, apprehensive and she is always the part of our travels that we dread – saying goodbye to her for a period of time, and hoping she copes ok. I cry each time I say goodbye, wracked with guilt.

So it begins – again – another trip after countless hours mapping, planning, plotting. Where?

A man is assembling a touring bike in a garage while a dog watches nearby. The scene conveys a sense of preparation for an upcoming trip.

Hint! Ragnar we are heading your way!

Artistic representation of a Viking character, featuring a man with long hair and a beard, sitting with a sword, wearing a fur cloak against a red background.

I love the series Vikings, stories filled with the legend of Ragnar Lothbrok and his Viking family and warriors including his brother Rollo, the first Duke of Normandy, wife Lagaertha and sons Ubba, Sigard, Ivar and Bjorn. Then there is our favourite Floki! Hoping we do not make it to Valhalla on this trip though!

Scandinavia has long been on our bucket list, but compared to many other European countries, it is not the cheapest to tour through. Whilst we are both still working, it had to be this year or likely never.

Accomodation has been trickier to organise. Numerous places charge for electricity used, reading the meters at the start and finish. Others tell you to bring your own sheets. I am hopeful that I have booked all-inclusive accommodation including power and bed linen!

It was very difficult finding our anchor location in Copenhagen. This is where we leave our bike bags (used to transport them from Tasmania). One place asked for the equivalent of three nights accomodation – or AUD $900.

In the end I found a very friendly guy, just a short distance from the airport, who sent me about 10 photos of himself with cyclists. His name is Chaudhry and he is our champion!

I share some of his comms below as he made my day and went above and beyond most – so if anyone reading this is looking at starting a ride in Copenhagen, check out Chaudhry, who is located in Kastrup, very close to the airport.

A friendly communication from Chaudhry, a host in Kastrup, expressing his appreciation and offering a cozy stay for cyclists with bike amenities and a relaxing garden.
Screenshot of a message from Chaudhry, a host in Denmark, expressing his welcoming sentiments and assuring safety for travelers.

After many months of planning and plotting, this is our route. Five countries, 35 days cycling, 3,300 km plotted.

We will have 15 nights in Denmark, 10 in Sweden, 6 in Poland, 5 in Norway, 1 on a ferry travelling between Poland and Sweden, and separate to our cycling trip, 2 nights in Switzerland catching up with my son Ben and his wife Sharon, and hopefully friends Sandra and Ralph.

At the moment, our maps total 3,300 km but this always decreases due to bad weather and rerouting. Climbing is around 17,500 metres, but that is indicative as there is usually a variance there as well.

The proof will be in what we ultimately upload to Strava daily and tally at the end.

We hope to meet two Zwifters, Cecilia in Sweden, and Rudi in Norway. It is one of the privileges of cycle touring that we can get to meet people with similar passions to us. We treasure these catch ups.

A detailed route map showing cycling paths across Denmark, Sweden, Poland, and Norway, with notable ferry routes highlighted in red.

The straight lines in the map are ferries. We have a few. First of all to get to Bornholm Island in the Baltic Sea – ferry to and from, then the long overnight ferry from Gdansk (Poland) to Karlskrona (Sweden). We ferry from Sweden across to Norway, then Norway back to Denmark, and another from one Danish island to another.

All ferries are booked – hopefully correct days!

An interesting point in the trip shows on the map, lower right – and out and back line to the Russian border, otherwise known as the Kaliningrad oblast (region) . It is the westernmost part of Russia and a province separated from the rest of the country by the Baltic Sea, Poland and Lithuania.

The port city of Baltiysk is Russia’s only port on the Baltic Sea that remains ice free in winter. The oblast is an oddity resulting from World War II agreements.

We are cycling towards the border, on a narrow isthmus – how close, not sure. If we go missing, start looking there!!

We hope to see some trolls – such as the one in suburban Copenhagen below. Thomas Dambo is a Danish “recycle art activist” globally known for his giant wooden troll sculptures, made entirely from recycled materials.

He has trolls in over 17 countries, including six in Mandurah, Western Australia. They are seemingly off the beaten track and possibly not suitable for us on bikes, but we will see….

A large wooden troll sculpture by Thomas Dambo, surrounded by trees and near a reflective body of water.
A large wooden troll sculpture in a grassy area, with a boat tied nearby, surrounded by trees and buildings.
A detailed map titled 'TROLLMAP' by Thomas Dambo, featuring various marked locations across Denmark and parts of Sweden, showcasing the locations of giant wooden troll sculptures.
Useful map lol……I am sure we will have no problems whatsoever now finding them! We are going through (or near) quite a few spots marked with an x.

We will likely start to pull the clothing out this weekend – we take a spare bedroom each to sort our gear out on – but we have this part down to a fine art. It is more the other little bits and bobs – like toiletries, making sure we have enough of our medicines and so on. As long as we have the correct riding gear with us for all climatic conditions, enough script medicines, most other things we can source armed with a piece of plastic.

One item that always make the cut are spare derailleur hangers – they are super hard to source as bike companies like to make theirs unique per model. So we will have numerous spare hangers with us. It is an insurance policy.

For non-cyclists, the hangers protect the derailleur (the mechanism that moves the chain from one sprocket wheel to another) in case of an accident/spill/damage to the derailleur – derailleurs are expensive and hard to replace. Hangers snap and if you don’t have one with you it can bring your trip to a screaming halt! We have had to replace hangers on previous trips. Once Tony had a spill coming around an oily roundabout just out of Paris. Another time, my bike just fell over in the wind when I leaned it the wrong way off the bike. When I broke my ribs with my spill in Switzerland, the hanger also snapped.

My bathers always come along, and seriously, they are the best travelled, most under utilised item on each trip. I feel if I don’t take them though, surely that will be the time I want them!! I am taking a newer, heavier weight jersey this trip – but will have two additional small panniers on the front too!

Idea there is to not put as much on my rear pannier so I do not have to swing my leg quite as high up and over (the cause of my accident in Slovenia last year was when I did not quite lift my leg high enough, and we both came tumbling down and I got the massive hematoma – and still have a small lump there).

The next fortnight will fly by – I have been under the pump at work with Estimates coming up in Parliament, then a politician decided under the Request For Information Act to ask for over 125 documents (1200 pages) of a grant program I manage, so worked a public holiday this week to get on top of that as we were given four work days….then I need to sort rollovers (financial adjustments from one financial year to another) out before I leave – in addition to my normal day to day work.

I will be ready for a holiday – but then there is Khaleesi – the dread, the guilt as she is so much part of our everyday life. The balance between loving your dog and wanting to do holidays is not easy. On our last trip, one of her hairs was caught on my handle bar tape – so as I rode I felt I had part of her with me – not planned, just the way it is with her dog hair flying around at home I guess when the bikes were being packed.

That’s it for now folks.

Ooroo!

Hoping the weather gods are kind

Aotearoa – long overdue return

I have often wondered how many km I have cycled overseas – I have guessed in the past. Today I went through all my Strava data files and did a nice little spreadsheet. I have ridden 27, 762 km internationally in 20 countries.

France is sitting in first place with 6,565 km, followed by Italy on 4,757 km and New Zealand 4,750 km

I cannot believe that we are only 13 sleeps away from returning to New Zealand, our first trip there since 2019. It certainly rates highly for us as a cycling destination.

We will fly into Wellington, arriving late at night. The next morning we will have to move with haste to put the two bikes together, store our travel luggage and head off to the ferry.

We will be on a four-hour ferry trip across Cook Strait to Picton – and hopefully the weather is nice as I think the closer we get to South Island, the better the scenery will be. Queen Charlotte Sound looks spectacular (photo courtesy http://www.newzealandtrails.com)

Then off we head the following morning with a 111 km ride, and around 1100 metres climbing. We will spend two nights in Nelson and complete a circuit ride on the second day heading out through Stoke, Richmond to Norris Gully and Kohatu via Spooners Tunnel following the Great Taste Trail.

I have borrowed this map from a cycling company promotion. We are not involved with this company as we are independent riders – I map all of our rides, upload them to our bike computer, and make all necessary accommodation and ferry transfers. For riders new to cycle touring, I do initially recommend using a company – as we did ourselves in the earlier years.

Then we have another tougher day – 108 km and 1078 metres ascent to climb over Takaka Hill to Motupipi, riding along the edge of the Abel Tasman National Park.

There is a degree of trepidation as this road features on a website highlighting dangerous roads. The Pass is described as “very steep and a winding road with 257 corners and some almost 320-degree hairpins”. There is no other route over though and we will leave Nelson as early as we can (there is no breakfast where we are staying so we will likely eat a little before we leave and pick up food along the way).

This day will also be Christmas Eve and I expect traffic will increase exponentially.

We will be in Motupipi for Christmas, a small village in the middle of nowhere staying in a renovated train carriage. We will aim to buy some food from Takaka so we can eat on Christmas Day!

A few things planned include a river swim at a local river spot, visiting Tata Beach and Te Waikoropupu Springs – a beautiful sacred site – no swimming allowed. Maybe a bath?

Collingwood is next – yes New Zealand also has a Collingwood – and we have three nights there as we have two-day trips planned including heading towards Cape Farewell and the West Coast.

I have mapped a ride to head in and around the Whanganui Inlet and possibly up towards Puponga. What we end up doing will depend on the weather, how we feel as we may also head to the famous and historic Langford Store at Banhaim – in a totally different direction.

Leaving Collingwood, we weave back and over Takaka Hill (we love climbing hills with a loaded bike – said noone ever).

We are going to St Arnaud for two nights, overlooking Lake Rotoiti. We will cycle around to Lake Rotoroa the following day.

Then we have our easiest day riding out to Blenheim following the Wairau River and valley.

Finally we head back to Picton the following day to return to Wellington on the ferry and a possible short ride before cleaning and packing our bikes up.

We are hoping for nice weather, fair winds, minimal rain, no spills or illness.

New Zealand will then move up to number two on my all-time km list, overtaking Italy!

I will blog each day, assuming wifi is strong enough – with Tony’s photos and my words.

Thankyou for reading, and I look forward to sharing our journey vicariously.

Ooroo.