I am somewhat behind in my blogs from Europe….Rome, Tuscany….I had issues with my camera ( it died) and wifi in Tuscany. So I will move on and do a photo blog in the future…as right here, right now I need to pack my bags.
Yes, I’m hitting the road again….seriously hoping not literally this time after Europe where I broke ribs and teeth!!
Tomorrow New Zealand looms. Again you say? Yes, this will be my 4th trip to NZ for 2018. I love the place, it is nice and close travel wise, spectacular scenery, friendly people, crap car drivers.
When I tell non cycle people I train for cycle touring, they give me a funny look…they do not get it. Why don’t you do a boat cruise? Say what?? That would end in tears….one day, when I cannot do the cycle distances, maybe….possibly…but not until I’m old…well older!!
Why cycle touring? The memories, the places and the people. The effort required to chug up that hill, carrying your gear is satisfying (after the fact). The feeling you have at the end of the day, week or tour knowing what you have achieved under your own steam.
More recent memories…
This old bloke owned a restaurant in Buonconvento, province of Siena, Tuscany. He spoke no English but we shared a love of all things bicycle. He insisted on showing us his old race bike. Roberto, the man who lived with wolves to find his voiceThe eclectic Italy Bike Tours mobPondering
The sights…
Monte Jafferau, BardonecchiaMe on the road in Tuscany
Pienza, Tuscany enjoying an aperol spritz,
I love reliving the memories. I am a sentimental person and love the stories. I have been fortunate to meet so many interesting people….Roberto who lived in the Siberian Mountains with wolves whilst finding his voice, Marco who just abrogated life responsibilities to ‘just ride’, Jane who played in a recorder orchestra, Peter who at 80 rode LeJog and the list goes on. People have fascinating stories to tell…if you listen.
So back to this trip..the plan is a 1550 km ride starting and ending in Auckland. It will be hilly, there will be gravel. We have all day though to create new memories.
The route although slightly altered as now travelling to Tauranga to catch up with some cycling friends and onto Rotorua via the lake.
Some of the route is familiar territory. Sue and I did the section from Rotorua to Taupo to Tongariro en route Auckland to Wellington.
I have also done some riding around New Plymouth when I did the Taranaki ride with friends, camping in the area. Looking forward to seeing this years Festival of Lights on Christmas Eve there.
Also revisiting Whangamomona, a small town on the Forgotten Highway. It is in the middle of nowhere, lots of dirt roads, and stinking hot last time I visited.
Desperate times, desperate measures!
So I hope the trip is safe, no falls, no broken teeth or bones, nothing stolen and I discontinue my bad weather chick magnetism!!
We woke up to drizzle, wind and a lower temperature. On paper today was to be the easiest ride due to the fairly flattish route and only 350m climbing. However the day provided its own challenges with strong head winds.
I liked the plants at the back of this cemetery
We did a lot of left and right hand turns today watching the navigational instructions carefully. One of the instructions we believe is ‘wrong’ but with the use of mobile phone maps were able to get back on track ok.
Welcomed respite was found at a cafe in Foxton. Interesting little town with great food and crafty shops. Sue purchased a locally made cushion cover here.
I liked this old truck
The windmill dominated the skyline. Not sure what the story is behind it.
After leaving Foxton on the main highway we had a brief reprieve from the hectic highway traffic on a short section of cycling path.
Cycling path gates
We ran the highway gauntlet with trucks and cars in poor visibility conditions and narrow verges. It was a huge relief to leave the highway just as it started to pelt down. Oh here we are, another cemetery, with great rain protection trees.
Sue taking shelter in the cemetery.
The scenery in the latter part of the ride resembled Scotland.
We were both glad to arrive in Otaki as we had enough of wet and windy riding.
Fortunately the accomodation, Byron’s Resort also has a bar and restaurant meaning we don’t need to hike into central town. A lovely young couple run this joint and are trying hard to create a great holiday destination. Hence my reference to Lord Byron’s famous quote.
Hopefully Sue and I won’t get into trouble tonight and be at the receiving end of a lecture from a twenty something girl!! ( What happens on tour,stays on tour)!!!
So per the sign we are getting close to Wellington. Tomorrow is the penultimate day. I always view that day as bitter sweet. Glad to reach the destination safely but sad that it is over. I love touring!!
Not the best nights sleep as I awoke at three am hot and sweaty as the room was so hot. Hot was not to be the order of the day today as the forecast was very different. I knew from Team Auckland that bad weather was forecast for the day with lots of rain, wind and storms.
We got away early after a nice plate of eggs and bacon. Nice and flat route today passing through Waitakaruru at the 6 km point and Ngatea at 19.6 km.
The route took us out past a river and we followed a canal for some distance. We rode past what I think was a small stand off kauri trees.
Sue near a nice stand of what I think are kauri??
The farmland was rich and green with ominous clouds moving over the hills.
We took an alternative route to Te Aroha mainly because we missed a turn earlier on. The traffic was heavier and somewhat closer!
Once in Te Aroha I noted this awesome drinking fountain!
Notice where the excess water is released!!!!
A few other shots from around town.
Starving hungry we found a funky cafe named Ironique. Top food and an amazing toilet!
It started raining whilst at the cafe and it was then that Sue realised she had left her rain jacket at Miranda!! Bad timing.
Onwards we marched with only 40 km remaining. We were motivated wanting to beat the worst weather.
Certainly it was considerably cooler than yesterday and riding flat roads were a reprieve and a chance for some recovery.
At a couple of spots the side gusts were very strong temporarily unnerving me.
Arriving at Matamata we located our hotel and met the friendliest manager Arnel who was very enthusiastic about us and our ride.
The friendliest manager with Sue
We walked into town for dinner. Great meal at an Italian restaurant. Nice cool drink
Enjoying our meal
Supermarket for breakfast supplies. Sue did this!!
Then it was so windy outside. The loaner umberella did not stand up to the elements!
Hobbits are famous here.
So walkimg back we got drenched. Nearly all my casual clothes are wet and I sit here in my shorts. The motel car park is flooding badly and the wind is picking up.
Tomorrow we head to Rotorua and we will decide in the morning when to leave to minimise the weather, if at all possible.
Elvis Costello had the hit song, Pump It Up… some lyrics that I probably should not put in full in my blog, but great song with funky beat that will always make me move! I thought of this song a few times today whilst riding – the chorus:
Pump it up until you can feel it
Pump it up when you don’t really need it
………………………………………………………………………………………
I awoke this morning to magnificent views. I just lay back and soaked it in.
Communal breakfast was scheduled to commence st 8 am. Drag myself away from the view! As is common with bike tours, we were the very first there!
One view was replaced with another! How awesome is this? It was going to be hard to leave such natural beauty, but leave we must.
Breakfast views surely don’t get much better?
Starting from the Lake Ohau Lodge driveway, the trail traverses the lower slopes of the Ruataniwha Conservation Park, offering stunning views back across the basin to the Ben Ohau Range.
We crossed numerous creeks including Freehold Creek at 600 metres above sea level.
From here the track narrowed and became quite loose, slippery with numerous patches of larger rocks to navigate. Legs were pumping hard!
Pump it up Sharron!
I found I had to really concentrate too and could not turn my head left to look at the view as invariably I became unsteady on the bike. So eyes straight ahead looking to where I needed to ride, rather than what I wanted to avoid!
There are several false summits where the trail appeared to have reached the high point but instead kept winding upwards.
Rest at Turnbrae
We then descended…what goes up must go down.
Tony heard an ominous bang in his back tyre and had a puncture. The tube had already been patched so we used the one spare tube the hire bike company gave us for the two bikes.
Awful view to tolerate whilst puncture rectified
Pump it up Tony!
There were numerous small streams to cross.
We stopped off at the historic woodshed at the top of Quailburn Road.
I am looking out the window
Inside the old shed
From the signage I gathered that the woolshed was part of the Benmore Station.
The story goes something like this. 2 Scotsmen set off in search of new country to settle. Having come through Mackenzie Pass they crossed Tekapo, Pukaki and Ohau rivers. They climbed to the top of the last terrace and saw straight ahead of them north facing tussock covered ridges sloping gently to rich grassy plains.
“I’ll take this country” said MacMurdo pointing to the range.
“That’s just the country I’ve decided to take” retorted Fraser.
They debated for some time, neither giving way. They decided to race to Christchurch to register their claim but that was over 200 miles away over rough country.
In the end they decided to race to a matagouri bush about a mile away. The winner was to take the land to the left, the loser the land to the right.
MacMurdo won the race and named the land Benmore after his birthplace in Scotland. The year was 1857.
Old wagon
There were toilets at the woolshed, very welcomed by this female cyclist. I was taken with this message on the loo wall from 2 French cyclists earlier this year.
Better than a lot of things I have read in public toilets!
The terrain had flattened considerably and we were riding around farmland.
With plenty of time left in the day we decided to take a return detour of 14 km along a gravel road to visit the acclaimed Clay Cliffs.
The Cliffs are on private property and the last 4 km in was heavily corrugated and not a lot of fun. We saw the most cars on this section as well with dust dust and dust.
I was not sure what to expect but once in sight it was “wow”. I also had my second spill of the trip climbing the last few metres spilling on loose gravel.
Descending from the cliffs we stopped to climb through the farmers fence at the Ahuriri River to top up our bidons.
A fence is not enough to stop me!
Returning to Quailburn Road we took the off road trail adjacent to the highway, passing through Ahuriri Camp Ground where there were many tents erected and much activity on the river banks.
Exiting the camp ground we crossed the river and arrived in Omarama via an off road trail.
Great accomodation here in a well appointed unit. Cycling clothes all washed but not being dried in accordance with our normal conventions ( bra, knicks etc hanging out windows). This place has a clothes line and it is windy as! Bonus!!
Tea was at the Wrinkly Ram (!?!)
So a solid day in the saddle. Arms and shoulders can feel it from the constant hump and bump. Tomorrow we head to Kurnow with lakes, rivers and dams.
Two of these bikes adorn the fence at our accomodation. Proud supporters of the A20 trail.
Here is a map of today plus the ascent/descent info.
I am sometimes asked if I see much whilst riding my bike. I find it quite incredulous that there could possibly be a perception that you don’t or can’t.
I am currently reading a book written by Juliana Buhring, one incredibly inspiring lady with an extraordinary life story. Raised in the Children of God cult she broke away and after a major personal tragedy decided to ride a bike…around the world.
Juliana became the first woman to circumnavigate the world by bicycle in 2012.
She has a wonderful quote in her book ‘This road I ride’ :
On a bicycle you are inside the movie, an essential part of it. Completely reliant upon your environment, you observe and absorb every sensation around you. You feel every change in terrain, the texture of the road, the direction of the wind, every ascent and descent, the constant shifting weather. You smell every plant and flower, every rotting roadkill carcass. You hear every birdcall, every insect and animal. You take in the country, and the country takes in you.
If you really want to experience the world, get on a bicycle’.
I consider myself very fortunate to have ridden in many countries, touring. I openly admit I work to earn enough $ to fund my passion. To date I have ridden in England (4 trips), France ( 3 times), Wales, Scotland, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Lichtenstein, Italy, Spain and Singapore.
I will admit that Juliana has provoked much thought and I do wonder if i could ride around the world? What an awesome thing to do!
Later this week we fly to Christchurch, New Zealand, then bus down to Twizel. From there we will complete the Alps to Ocean ride, on a mtb hire bike, on trails. The distances per day are quite low, but the scenery sounds awesome.
I then say farewell to Tony, and I fly to Auckland for a few days, doing some rides with Zwift friends before riding to Wellington. I was initially doing this 9 night ride solo but my very first cycling buddy Sue has been motivated to fly over and join me.
Sue took up cycling back in 2009 and we had numerous adventures together, culminating in the 149 km Otway Classic. One of our funnier training rides was our first 150 km ride from Launceston to Mole Creek and return.
Sue and I post Otway Classic 149 km 2009
We did that ride with about 25 psi in our tyres…. not comprehending that we needed to open the tyre valve before pumping the tyres up…. oops… the guys at the local bike shop dined out on that one for a looonng time! Needless to say our knowledge has improved!
We will have a ball and create a whole bunch of new memories.
Will Sue survive me? Climbing back into my bedroom at Lands End, having climbed out onto the roof for a better view of the Scilly Isles. Thank goodness she is a nurse!
I have a few other rides in conceptual planning stages as well as the BIG one locked in… TransAm 6500 km, 52 000 metres climbing.
I also have employed a cycling coach. Yes I know many will think silly, ‘at my age’ but in trying to find authentic Sharron the fact is I am doing too many kilometres per week. Andy Jackson is a world endurance champion. I like endurance riding so it makes sense to tap into his brain to ensure my training is more directed. This will mean less km per week but higher intensity.
After only a fortnight my legs are trash!
My goals are not racing based but touring based. My knee and body will last far longer in touring mode, with less risk of accidents and injury.
Touring is MY passion.
My touring bike
My goal is to become the authentic Sharron and put myself at the top of my list. Too often in life we get caught up in doing what everyone else wants, expects, needs and you become a husk of authenticism. Before you know it, you are too old to achieve those goals!
Looking out the window at Solsona on what is to be our second last day of riding. Barcelona looms, and realistically today will be the last day of feeling ‘free’ as riding through urban conurbations is somewhat stressing.
I had slept badly with bruised shoulder and hip making for uncomfortable sleep. I had arisen during the night to take some pain relief.
We had our fourth hearty Spanish breakfast and hit the road promptly as today we needed to cover over 91 km and climb around 1500 metres.
We headed back into town and followed the old town around the edges before veering off through undulating farmland.
Open farmland just out of Solsona
We started climbing and then undulated along the top of hills before turning to ‘El Miracle’ a historic abbey. from the road it looked ‘plain’ compared to others.
El Miracle
However the information board shows that there is more to the place than meets the eye.
The road then descended from El Miracle and undulated through woods and fields, rejoining the main road. A few km later we turned off the main road again.
Nice little farm
The topography was starting to dry out more and there were some really old looking structures such as the one behind me in the photo below.
At the 46 km mark we rode through the reasonable sized town of Calaf, with lots of navigational instructions. We had decided to look for a coffee at the next town of El Prats de Rei. I think we found the only place open there and for 4.80 Euro got 2 coffees, and 3 snacks. Bargain.
We started a 8 km gentle climb.
Just leaving El Prats de Rei
The navigational notes stated that the top of the climb was by the wind turbines. There were so many in the area. Good to see Spain making use of its natural resources.
Just past the top of this climb the real ‘fun’ for the day started. Now I am not a big fan of riding on gravel. I have come off my bike twice this trip on gravel and sporting a very sore shoulder today. So it was somewhat a surprise to discover we were going to be riding 14 km off sealed bitumen on our road bikes!
On the plus side, the views were great, the sun was shining and I managed to stay upright! I found this part of the ride a real challenge mentally and physically though!
That big rock lump was our first view of Montserrat, today’s destination. At this point still over 30 km away.
This is a nice, solid section of the road. Much of it was not as solid, and was quite steeply undulating!
This next view is looking back to where we have ridden.
Montserrat was always in our view and kept our focus!
Carefully goes it!
Here I am descending towards a village…unaware of a nasty loose gravel climb ahead!
As we entered the village of Sant Pau de la Guardia there was sealed road! Celebrations! We stopped and had a snack as it had been quite taxing riding 14 km of gravel. We were met by the village friendly and happy dog!
Happy dog bounding up to welcome me.
We were back onto a beautifully bitumised road but nervous about the next direction “road climbs through rocky scrub”. Surely not!!??
Fortunately it referred to the roadside vegetation!
It was nice to start the final climb up towards Montserrat.
Our first Park sign for Montserrat
The temperature was now around 26 degrees and we were working up quite a sweat on the climb, but the views were great.
You pass through two tunnels on the climb up to Montserrat and we had so many buses descending past us.
Still climbing up through the long car park I had a tourist bus up my clacker! I was not moving and held my position! He did overtake me but then had to sit behind Tony but only for a short distance as there was a barrier preventing the bus from going further.
Omce amongst the tourist throng we needed to get off our bikes and walk as they were walking oblivious to everything.
We were the first to arrive and we checked into the hotel, keen to store our bikes and start exploring.
Today’s route
Todays elevation graph
We decided the first thing we would do was purchase a ticket for the furnicular to the top of the ‘rocks’
Above the hotel (right) and to the left of the blue crane is a white line in the crevice which is where the furnicular climbs.
Here is a closer shot. Can you see it?
Once at the top there are multiple walking trails that you can take to ancient abbeys and hermitages. We chose the Saint Joan walk. The following are some of the views.
In this photo you can see the remains of the hermitage from the 1400’s.
Looking back down along some of the walking trail
Just below the hermitage is this little church
Heading back down to ‘catch’ the furnicular
Back down at the base, we found another view showing the furnicular tracks.
The dual track section is where the ascending and descending pass each other. All carefully timed!
After a tough day on the bike we were starting to get sick of walking, so headed straight to the Basilica.
After entering the complex you arrive in this square and the door you enter is the central blue door.
Certainly the interior is incredibly ornate.
The priest and the maintenance man were having a lengthy conversation
I was particularly interested in the organ. What a treat it would have been to listen to it. I was particularly intrigued by the protruding pipes looking like a series of car mufflers.
Upon leaving there was a grotto with many sections of coloured candles that you could purchase for 2 or 3 Euros. Amazing how much warmth there was in here from the candles.
As I write this blog, I am listening to the Basilica bells which have been ringing regularly since 6.30 pm. This reminds me strongly of our stay in Florence, where our accomodation was directly opposite the Duomo.
Tomorrow will be bitter sweet. It is always nice to achieve your goal, but there is also sadness that it is ‘over’. There will be ‘farewells’ with fellow cyclists we have really enjoyed the company of at breakfast and dinner, sharing our days tales.
Standing at the front of the Basilica, that is our hotel on the right
This was my first view out our bedroom window this morning.
It was overcast in the direction we were to ride. Firstly though, more important matters. Breakfast. I love Spain! 3 days running we have had a great breakfast!! Good fuel for the climbing ahead.
Leaving the hotel we headed back towards Organya for 2.4 km before turning right and crossing a small river.
Looking back towards Coll de Nargo
A little further up the road we could see Coll de Nargo more clearly, perched on its rocky outcrop.
The road was very quiet and serene.
We travelled along this road for some distance before descending and then climbing along a gorge and through several short tunnels.
We past two small villages of Alinya and Les Sorts before climbing to the top of our first Col for the day, Coll de Boix (1320m). No sign, so no photo!
After a short descent we started climbing again out of the village of Cambrils. We found these couple of friendly guys (?) on the side of the road, with dreadlocked manes.
The spectacular views continued with amazing rock formations.
In this photo you can see a lower road that we had ridden up. We looked hard to see if we could see any of our other riders.
We passed through another tunnel and continued climbing and then descending near this cafe.
Casanova was not home!
Beautiful views!
Hardly seems likely territory for cows!
At the 33 km point we found this natural spring. Two old guys were filling their water containers up. The water was very cold and very nice so we filled up our bidons.
This old guy was amazed that I had cycled from Coll de Nargo up all those hills!
We continued to climb up and around until we reached Coll de Jou (1480m). These are photos from this section.
An old fortification at the top of the hill
An old structure built at the cliff base
Coll de Jou
From the Coll the road descended and continued undulating along the top of rocky wooded hills, before climbing steeply up another small 2 km section.
From the top of this climb Tony shot off down and around a bend and as I followed him noticed he had pulled off the road to take a photograph. So I slowed down to pull off and ended up,underneath my bike! Most importantly the rear derailleur is ok! Me, well I knocked the scab off my knee, and have matching bruises on my right hip and a very sore shoulder!
As we descended further down we were amazed by the geology of the area.
Amazing rounded structures
This was our final view back to where we had ridden during the day! The Pyrenees certainly have been a highlight and we are now farewelling the amazing area.
The last of the Pyrenees, but not climbing for us!
Today’s route and elevation data.
We are now in Solsona, a quite large town. There is an ‘old town’ section which is medieval. We went for a wander but it was all closed for the siesta, which goes from around 12 noon to between 4-5 pm! It was like a ghost town!
This used to be the main entrance to the town for nobles
Quiet, narrow streets
600 Euro if you don’t pick up your doggy poo!
The Museum
One of three remaining water fountains in the old town that used to provide fresh water
Interesting stone carvings
The Cathedral. Closed for siesta until 4 pm but obviously that is not strictly adhered to as it still had not reopened by 4.15 pm. Parts of this church go back to the 10th century,
So we are nearly at the end of this cycling odyssey, sadly! 2 more days of riding are left. Tomorrow we climb again this time to Montserrat and then the final day, with more climbing and the urban necessity of riding into Barcelona!
Today we climbed out of France and dropped into Spain. Sounds simple but it was actually quite hard work! Some cumulative tiredness along with continuing poor nutrition at breakfast and the start of a head cold and back spasms made it quite a challenge.
Lovely first km heading out from our hotel, just before the climb into Spain
The Spanish/French border is located at the top of Col Du Portillon at 1293 metres, according to the sign at the base of the climb.
The sign at the base of the climb
A series of switchbacks commence just after the 3 km point. The climb was really scenic passing through lush green woods.
Early part of the climb
The switchbacks provided some nice views. I was passed by two other cyclists from Wales on the way up and both were encouraging.
A nice stone cottage on the climb.
Just before the summit there was this magical view back over France.
Au revoir France!
As you approach the summit is this sign.
Tony waited for me just before the border. Here I come!!
I can see the border at this point
The two Welsh cyclists were at this sign waiting for their two mates who were still climbing. One of them kindly took this photo.
Glad to be at the top of the first climb for the day.
We had a lovely chat with the guys swapping tales. Turns out we have ridden in their area on our LeJog trip when we rode through Chepstow to Tintern Abbey and the Wye Valley in 2013.
My new Welsh cycling buddies
This is the view only a couple of km into Spain.
4 km down the descent is a viewpoint overlooking the valley and celebrating Spain’s success in the Tour de France.
Spanish TDF winners
TDF statue. This photo was taken by a friendly Spanish motor cyclist I had started a conversation with.
Once at the bottom of the descent we rode along a river valley and crossed the Garonne, the river we had followed extensively around Bordeaux, where it is a wide and very muddy river. Here it is crystal clear!
Garonne River
The second climb of the day was required to take us off the busy main road. We crossed over the river and climbed steeply through a series of switchbacks to the village of Es Borders.
We continued to climb out of the village and continued through woods, adjacent to the river. The following sign ensured an expletive. 16.1%!!
16.1% is tough!
This is a section of the wooded forest.
The beautiful river we followed.
Here I am ambling up a slope.
This route did offer some great views.
We ultimately descended into Gausac, an architecturally interesting town with winding, cobblestoned laneways. Next thing we were in Vielha a large, busy town.
We could have stopped for refreshments here but noted on our route that there was a third climb. I am not a fan of climbing with cold legs so we just idled through the valley spinning our legs in low gears as we continued climbing through Betren, Escunhau, Casarilh and Arties before arriving at our destination in Salardu.
We started this morning 700 metres above sea level. We are now at 1300 metres. tomorrow we are over 2000 metres before heading into Sort.
Todays climbing graph
Today’s route map
So following our usual routine of showering and washing our clothes we went wandering around Salardu. It is a small village set on a steep slope. It is a ski village.
We were really on a mission to find food!! Eventually we located somewhere very close to our accomodation. It looked closed but upon entering I think the entire village was in there, spirited away in a series of rooms all stone walled and seemingly underground.
A fantastic first meal in Spain!
Now to rest a little.. not too long mind you! But just a little given I am succumbing to a head cold.
Finally here are three shots from around the local village. The church goes back to the 12th century.
All the houses are constructed of stone with slate roofing.
Today was scheduled as a rest day, but for anyone who knows me, they would know that term does not sit easily with me. I can’t do nothing!
Originally we had hoped to do the classic Tourmelet climb, weather permitting. Thunderstorms were forecast to hit Bagneres between 12 noon and 1 pm rendering this ride and climb as being in the ‘ not too sensible’ bucket.
Instead we opted to do the Superbagneres climb which starts right in Luchon.
Luchon is another spa town so you can guess what breakfast was! Yes, bread only! Hardly the food for a cyclist! So I supplemented this with some coconut cream I had purchased from the local supermarket.
We dropped the paniers for this ride given it was an out and back ride.
The views were simply stunning!
Below are a range of photos from the climb.
The climb is 17 km long. At the top is a currently closed ski village. Great views over Luchon. I managed to fall off my bike whilst sticky beaking and now have quite a nice range of bruises on both legs and gravel rash on my buttocks and thigh! No photos, ha ha!
I am concentrating on the descent!
Today’s route
The climb
It was a very fast and fun descent back into Luchon where we went straight to a creperie for a nice galette and coffee.
Being our third spa town we thought we had better visit one and see what all the fuss is about. 15 euro for us into the level with an extraordinary sauna network in a cave that was founded in Rome an times. There is a network of 150 metres in the cave.
After extensive showering and cleaning procedures you enter the complex tunnels where the humidity is 100 percent with air temperatures of between 38-42 Celsius.
You find a seat somewhere in the darkened chambers and sweat profusely. back out for showering before entering the jet pool. We did this cycle 3 times and decided we could not cope with a 4th session in the stunning and incredible cave.
File photo of part of the cave
We then caught up with Annie for coffee. We met her in Tasmania a few years ago when she was doing a ride around the state with Prickles. They are about to head off to ride together for 6 months! Annie is now based in Luchon.
On the way back to our accomodation we dropped into a small restaurant recommended by Lisette and Sumi. What an extraordinary hour we spent there.
Bruno is the owner and chef. He was very loud and very, very drunk. He was very keen to impart many thoughts with us. It was difficult to get away from him, but he had a kind heart and although he is jaded with the politics in France, terrorism and yearns to live in a chalet in the mountains, he is a good cook and we had a nice meal!!
Very sober Sharron and very drunk Bruno. What is not showing in the photo is that Bruno is caressing my hands endlessly!!
So tomorrow we say au revoir to France as we are only 10-15 km from the Spanish border.
I love this photo! Hence it appears twice so that it is the lead photo when I “press” this to Facebook !!
What another brilliant day! But before I get into that, a few little oddities from our accomodation in St Gaudens. The accomodation was run by two very strict ladies. You darned not cross them. They swore prolifically in French. They had unusual taste in light fittings!
There were a number of these! The big fluffy balls were ‘curious’
They also win the prize for the smallest bath award:
Yes I know you bath with your clothes off but this photo was merely for ‘illustration’ purposes only.
Notwithstanding that they did take good care of our babies:
Yes the bikes are in their breakfast room.
I think they may have underestimated the eating power of cyclists. We were strictly allocated one croissant, one piece of cheese, one slice of ham, one tub of natural yoghurt, 2 pieces baguette. I did manage to obtain a second coffee but that was because I had not had orange juice. I noticed the older lady carefully counting grapes too… but they were a bit soft and most of us passed.
When we packed up our room to depart, this was the view.
We left St Gaudens via the same roads we had entered and headed off towards Valentine. It was cold at 9 degrees and we had bare legs, but well rugged up on our top half.
We ideally would liked to have dumped our front paniers for today’s climb. However it was an unknown factor as to whether the van would be at the top for us to grab warmer clothes for the descent. So we erred on the conservative side and chose to carry provisions for the full day.
We rode through Valentine (6.1 km), Ardiege (8.9 km), Cier de Rivière (9.8 km) arriving at Col de la Hountared at 12.6 km.
We turned right climbing through woods ( what a surprise) but what a nasty little climb this turned out to be, with a 17 % section!
That is me climbing the last hundred metres or so.
A close up would show me grimacing!!
Around the area of Labroquere (17.1 km) we noted the old Roman funeral pile looking more like a section of a fence.
Saint Bernard de Comminges was an impressive village with a cathedral overlooking ancient roman ruins.
Remains from an ancient Roman village
Just over the road, unexcavated Roman ruins
We continued through a number of villages including Sarp (21.6 km), Aveux (22.7 km) travelling through narrow wooded valleys along the side of a river.
At Mauleon Barousse (29.1 km) we stopped as the Bike Adventures van was there. After a chat with Andy we motored on as I was not keen for my knee to cool down.
Mauleon-Barousse
Mauleon-Barousse
We turned right at this village and came across this sign, indicating the commencement of our 19 km climb.
The sign indicates that our current altitude was 576 metres but we were heading to 1775 metres over 19 km of climbing
As with all climbs, Tony has a leave pass to do what he wants. I like to climb on my own, cognisant of my knee and asthma. Today it was to be my back though that would cause me pain!
The views were great
As you climb it is important to stay mentally focused. Each km there is a sign indicating what exactly average incline is for the next km. The first few were only 3 -to 4 percent. Then they increased to 7,8,9 and 10 percent!
About half way up a couple of ‘young’ cyclists from Canada passed me and cheered me on, in French. Around one of the hairpin bends Tony was waiting to take photos of me grimacing!
I must be hot as I have unzipped my clothing. Sorry Hannah!! Modesty goes out the window in favour of ‘comfort’
I followed Tony for a bit and we came across these cows. They were so cute, with the adults having bells that were ringing. It explained all the cow pats on the road that I had seen too. They seem to just wander and go where they want.
Also note the TDF road markings
Nice view looking back
Can you see me? I am a speck climbing up
This next photo is as I entered the last km of the climb.
Looking back down
Only a few hundred metres to go
Made it!
I was very glad to get to the top. My back had been having muscular spasms for over half the ride. I lay down on the grass and did some stretching.
There were numerous cyclists at the top all congratulating each other!
Time to descend. More clothes back on as it is always colder when descending.
The view on the descending side
Descending
Some friendly random cyclists who were also descending
View from one of the villages descending
We had a fast descent into Bagneres de Luchon. We were the first of the cyclists to arrive and knew we had a bit of time to kill before the van arrived. We stopped at a restaurant and had lunch and then pootled to the accomodation where we did some bike maintenance and enjoyed the sun.
Tomorrow is a rest day. The weather forecast is not brilliant putting a dampener on our previous plans, but we will wait and see what the day brings!
yakkablog 