Itchy feet

What do you do after an epic bike tour? You get back in your bike of course, even for a shorter 48 km or so.

Itchy feet, waiting for the rain to ease and we went off on an exploratory ride to check out both sides of the Rhine and its villages.

Our route, Germany to the left, Switzerland to the right.
Borrowed photo showing Bad Sackingen from the Swiss side of the Rhine River up from the long wooden bridge.

Bad Sackingen was coming to life. A market was setting up, looking like lots of fresh produce.

Adjacent to the river is Gallasturm dating from 1343.

The river looks calm as the clouds start to lift.

We call this guy Lewis, after a character in Suits.

Laufenburg was our first bigger village, and we were on the German side at this point. On the other side of the bridge lies Laufenburg Switzerland.

The same name is not by accident as the two were the one town. In the early 19th century, Napoleon divided the town, with a bridge linking the two.

Below is our picture and following is one from 1896. Much remains the same.

2022, the German side
1896 German and Swiss sides
The bridge from the German side, Switzerland just metres away
The Swiss side
Both sides
As we left the German Laufenburg, looking back into town

We continued riding along the German side of the Rhine

We crossed over onto a largish island in the middle of the Rhine that you can see on our route map below. The trail is all dirt and our bikes are now filthy. We have mud up along our bottoms as it flicks up off the rear wheel.

Lots of fish in the Rhine including a very large 3 metre variety.

Leaving the island and returning to Switzerland we enter the Swiss Laufenburg and find a place to grab a coffee and some breakfast. Lovely spot and we hope to sneak a return visit in on Monday, the same day we fly out to Australia late in the evening.

Thanks for reading. Stay safe, smile on 😊

Finished our blockie

I always have a tendency to feel somewhat melancholy on the last day of a cycle tour. You out so much time and effort into organising it (research, mapping, coordinating accomodation, blogs).

Then there is the actual having to ride it, the physical and mental challenge. Setting out at aged 60 (very close) and 61 to ride 3000 km is something that not many have the desire or capability to achieve.

You get an array of comments, and for those who take the time to write positive comments via the blog page or fb we are appreciative. The support and encouragement of your words is acknowledged and not taken for granted.

There are many who ‘like’ the blog without actually reading it (easy to tell….as the number of likes on two fb pages versus actual number of reads is significantly different).

But to those who do reach out, our gratitude and thanks.

So after our breakfast we left Luzern during peak hour traffic, and once clear of the city found ourselves in the burbs.

Shortly thereafter we were back riding in agricultural fields of wheat, corn, potatoes and poppies. Looking back there were the mountains again. Lovely vista.

Rothenburg was a pretty town we rode through.

Then we passed Lake Sempach.

The final mountain views, until next time

We saw this Trek sign in a village. Being a Trek Ambassador in Australia, I thought I’d grab this photo for my Instagram account, where all things Trek are tagged.

We had no time pressures today. We only needed to ride about 75 km to finish, and we had told my son Ben we would arrive after 3 pm, trying to fit in with his work meetings.

We planned to sit in Aarau for a while. The weather was lovely, and we had a fruit smoothie each after wandering around the town. Note the paintings under the eaves.

A very pretty town, that is the capital of the northern Swiss canton of Aargau. It is located on the Aare River, and also the southern foot of the Jura Mountains as we were about to discover.

We ended up moving on sooner than planned as we realised we had a lumpsch to get over, and we both preferred warmer legs. It was nearly 4 km long at an average of 6.8% with pinches of around 11-12%.

It was warm climbing and when we got to,the top we discovered it had a name. Staffelegg Pass at 621 m altitude is one of the lowest Jura mountain passes and is surrounded by Wasserflue and Gisiflie, popular hikes.

I saw these signs though and laughed and twisted a bit, how I was thinking.

There was a bus shelter at the top of the climb that we sat in as it had just started to spit with rain. Checking the Swiss rain radar site, we could see the band moving towards Basel and knew we were likely to get more rain.

So we kept moving, stopping at a CoOp in Frick to grab an iced coffee and sushi.

About 8 km later, we made it back to Ben’s including his 14.4% pinch up his road. Accomodation is always at the top of a climb😳

So here we are. Done and dusted bar some short rides we will do in the area before our departure home on Monday night.

I could not do this without my partner in crime, Tony. He looks after all my mechanical ‘stuff’, takes the photos, and engages in lively navigational debate at times.

Doing a trip such as this, you see each other tested fully both physically and mentally. We survived each other and we both gain a greater appreciation and respect for each other as we know what each other goes through.

Time to celebrate some say. Think we’ve only had one ever finishing a tour, and that was LeJog where a group of partners got to John O’Groats ahead of us and cheered us all on, giving us champagne.

Oh actually, same tour company at the ends of London to Venice greeted us with champagne too.

This time, we shared this! Sandra gave it to us last night. 💕

Someone was pleased to see us!

There will be a few more blog posts yet as we will do some small rides whilst Ben sleeps weather permitting. Plus I have promised others to cover a few topics including…..what’s in the bags so stay tuned.

Could this be my new number one ride ever?

We are staying in a hotel with a Peruvian theme….restaurant and staff. I would not recommend it, poor quality mattress that has one of those rubber sheets like you put in your children’s bed when first toilet training at night, that makes you sweat.

Breakfast was a mess, made worse by a power failure in the dining room and an incredible influx of a tourist group. Food handling techniques were poor to non existent, no hand sanitiser in sight.

We ended up grabbing our breakfast and relocating to an adjacent room that had no one in it.

The rain radar contradicted the weather forecast that said it was going to rain. I could not see that the rain would hit the area, so we took off to ride down to the far end of Lake Luzern to Fluelen 51 km away, planning to return by the ferry.

We grabbed our bikes and made our way out of Luzern through the peak hour traffic. We had some 20 km of more suburbian like riding to do through a series of built up areas, but some nice vistas from the lake promenades.

Looking back to Luzern the clouds are still very low, mountains high in the clouds.
Very still and peaceful
So peaceful, the swan sleeps
Adam and Eve are very still too, well we presumed it was them as the girl does hold an apple.

We cut across a couple of sections of land turning away from the lake.

Returning to the lake and various sculptures and water features.

Just chilling.

The skies were lifting, and we could gradually see more

Blue sky trying to make an appearance
We liked how the boat ‘just’ fitted into the boat house.

The further down the lake we went, the better the scenery got.

The lake weaves around, with varying headlands jutting out, on both sides, creating narrow passages looking reminiscent of fjords. We are heading towards those snow capped mountains.

When you head up hill from Brunnen there is a sign saying the road ahead is dangerous and that it is recommended you catch the train or ferry. I have never seen such a sign before and we were like ‘eek’.

However very quickly we realised that this was not the case and that cyclists and walkers were very safely accommodated.

The last section of the lake, riding from Brunnen to Fluelen is the best section of riding scenery and infrastructure wise.

Getting to those mountains was an engineering masterpiece. We rode through multiple tunnels. Some were newer two lane tunnels, with a raised broad footpath for bikes and walkers. Others were older tunnels adjacent to newer ones for cars. The older tunnels were just for cycles and walkers. We must have ridden through nearly one km worth all up.

In other places the sides were open with a cycle track to the side.

What a view
Cycling through one of the tunnels where you can see two car lanes, and the raised pathway for bikes and walkers.

The closer we got to Fluelen the more amazing the scenery became.

An older rock road and tunnel ahead now used for cyclists and walkers.
Just beautiful

As we rode the last section of lake, we could see the ferry criss crossing the lake to various villages. We arrived at the ferry terminal 10 minutes before it was due to arrive and leave.The ferry departed hourly and the return trip took 3 hours.

As it was approaching 1 pm we decided to catch this ferry rather than explore further. The weather was lovely now, sun shining so it promised to be a great trip back. It cost a total of 112 Swiss francs (about Aud $185) including 16 Swiss francs for the bikes.

We found ourselves a great outdoor seat at the rear of the ferry looking backwards, so that we could savour the view of the mountains for as long as we could.

Church in Fleulen
Look closely at this photo and you can see the open cut road and where the tunnels are that we rode through.
Another section we had ridden where the road goes across various gorges and crevices

The closer we got to Luzern the clouds came rolling in, like some great performance on stage, the curtains were closing. It was a magnificent performance and one that we would long remember.

This ride rates. If you are a cyclist and heading this way we can recommend the route. A shorter option would be to get the ferry to Vitznau and ride from there.

The day held another highlight, as we had dinner with friends Sandra and Rolf, friends I met in the Maldives in 1985. I have had a few catch ups in recent years, but not since 2019 due to not being able to travel.

We had a lovely meal at a local Swiss restaurant and I do so value our friendship lasting so many years.

The photo is a little blurry but the quality of the friendship is not. 💕

Well another day has gone, and tomorrow we ride back to where we started 3.5 weeks ago.

Thank you for reading, stay safe, smile on 😊

The hills are alive….

…with the sound of music..? It looks like that in the photo below. You think maybe Julie Andrew’s is about to start singing?

I really like the next two photos. Bidding the three mountains farewell with the promise of a half decent looking day.

Alas the rain radar told a different story. We had watched it and knew without doubt that the band of rain was too big to miss Switzerland and we were bang smack in the middle. We had the morning though!

I took one last look up the valley and then turned my back. Maybe I will see these three again. It had been 35 years since my first visit and let’s hope a lot less until my next.

We headed straight into Interlaken as we needed to cross the river and ride down the ‘other’ lake side towards Brienz. We knew from our return bike ride yesterday that it was a good road and we would start with a couple of shorter climbs.

We stopped a few times on our way to Brienz as the lake was magical.

We turned left at Brienz, and again there were Swiss Airforce planes busy with their low altitude flights. Yesterday we had seen and heard many flyovers. I have since learned that the main airbase for the Swiss airforce is just a few km away at Meirengen.

There is a single runway and a series of large caverns in the adjacent mountain where the aircraft and ammunition is stored. You can drive the plane right though and out another cavern opening.

Then we climbed. The graph below shows the nasty one. As far as climbs go, on a loaded bike, we both felt this was tough. Not as long as say climbing to Les Gets in France last week, but steeper and pinchier. There were extended periods of 9-13% plus gradient.

There was no verge at all. There were many sections of no side barrier and long drop offs. I moved further out into the lane in those sections as one mistake by me, or the lightest tap by a car and life was over.

The vehicles were in abundance and would have difficulty overtaking due to the oncoming traffic.

It’s a hard place to stop when pushing 9-13% plus as you need to be able to twist your shoes out of their cleats and then re cleat to start again on a steeper slope. That is hard to do and keep your balance. Well it is for me.

On some left bends there was a little excess on the right hand side so I would move over there and jump off and wait. They were all very patient and highlights the huge difference riding here vs Australia. Not one car horn today.

Tony took a few photos climbing.

The first road climb was below, we joined a T junction a little higher where we merged with vehicles coming out of a tunnel who were also going up Brunig Pass
Waterfall in the far valley. I could hear a helicopter the whole climb from somewhere down there.
Tony waiting in one of those left bend, right hand bays
Still climbing

We often stop for a breather at the top of climbs and Brunig Pass had a cafe restaurant. So we stopped and had a hot chocolate (do it yourself version, as we were presented with a mug of warm milk and a sachet) and I ordered ‘something’ to eat. My German comprehension is far less than my French and she said croissant, and something else that sounded like mousse. I ordered the latter.

Mistake. Awful. It was like a five day old dried out sausage roll, with thick dry pastry that was inedible filled with stuff that almost looked like a sausage roll but sweeter. I got a spoon and scraped it out to eat leaving the thick pastry that you could use as a weapon.

Also turns out the cafe is 10 metres ascent short of the top of climb so our legs did protest after a break. Brunig Pass boasts a bus and train station and a few other eating places. Then it was into the descent, which included a few areas of roadworks.

We stopped here to look at the view of this lake, Lungerersee. The town you can see is was super picturesque.

Down in Lungern we stopped at a small supermarket and grabbed a bottle of Perrier to refill our bidons.

Church in Lungern
Lungerersee from the Luzern end

The weather is closing in and the blue sky has gone. The next lake we ride past is Sarnersee.

Lake Luzern (Lucerne) twists a lot. Our approach is from the south. 10 km out we don our rain jackets as there are a few spits. Can we get there without getting wet? Looking less likely as it is raining over Mt Pilatus.

Earlier view Lake Luzern

5 km to go, it rained. Just a steady downpour. We went direct to our accomodation despite being 1.45 hours too early. The young guy said we could come back in one hour….and we discussed the bike storage. That took 15 minutes as he conferred with his grumpy boss.

The boss said they could go outside in the rain. I looked at the spot and said no reminding him that when I made the booking I was advised they could store our bikes safely and securely. Back to the grumpy boss. Voices raised and the grumpy one came out and eye balled me, saying something…..but not one bit of warmth in his eyes or voice.

The young lad took me down one level in the lift where they store all kinds of stuff. Perfect storage! So now only 45 minutes to kill in the drizzle.

Around the corner we found a cafe and ordered some lunch. We ate slowly. We ordered more hot drinks. Voila, 45 minutes had passed.

Stored the bikes, showered and washed our clothes. Hanging the clothes out windows today was doomed to failure. This is our laundry set up here.

The fan oscillates but we needed extra height to get the clothes hanging from the shower rail hence it is sitting on the toilet. We turned the knobs on the wall heater but it took ages to get a tad of heat.

The rain had eased so we headed off to wander around the city. Some lovely buildings, statues and fountains.

The old bridge first erected in the 14th century, similar in age and length to the one on Bad Sackingen I posted early on when we first arrived.

We popped into a few bike stores whilst wandering as we needed some chain lube. In this store was an ex- pat from the USA who has lived in Switzerland over 20 years. He was impressed we had cycled Brunig Pass loaded, and told us in his younger years he used to skateboard down it 😳 I was thinking of those open drops…..

He had this steel bike custom made locally and had it treated to look old and rusty much to the disappointment of the manufacturer. He has since had a motor added so he now rides it 20 km to and from work.

Another day has gone. A shorter one at just under 80 km. We have two nights here too, as a second day of free choice. We have mapped out a ride to the far end of the lake to Fluelin, and a ferry ride back.

We need to check ferry schedules and the weather forecast is not brilliant. We do have options of stopping earlier at other ferry locations.

Thanks for reading. Stay safe, smile on 😊

Recovery day, the Yaxley way…..

Today was our first scheduled rest day, or potential rest day. Two nights in Wilderswil.

There were pre planned potential options:

  • Grosse Scheidegg high altitude loop ride (80 km, 2000m ascent);
  • Figure 8 loop ride of Thunersee and Brienzersee;
  • Circular loop ride Brienzersee;
  • Jungfraujoch excursion;
  • Diddly squat.

The weather ruled out option 1 and 4. Rain was forecast and by the time we returned from breakfast we could no longer see the Eiger, Monch or Jungfrau. We still cannot.

Grosse Scheidegg ride would be awesome but at around 1600 metres elevation pointless in such weather and risky. Safety first.

Diddly squat was never an option ba ha ha, perish the thought. When we did the supported rides with an English based business, there were rest days scheduled on three of the four trips we did.

It drove us nuts! On the third occasion we instead took off and climbed SuperBagneres overlooking Luchon close to the Spanish border.

Option 2 was ruled out as it was likely we would end up wet, and besides, we were in Thun yesterday.

Option three won, a circular loop of Brienzersee. Our thought process was a chillaxed ride, no pushing it.

Off we headed with a lot less gear in our bike, but the wet weather gear was with us. We rolled down the hill into the village.

At the bottom of the hill from our accomodation

Within two km we were in outer Interlaken, skirting around the outside on a busy arterial road.

The first view of the lake was of the ferry coming into dock.

We were not on the road very long, and we deviated onto the bike path that was well signposted. There were great views.

Then we had to climb, and descend steeply into historical Iseltwald.

The ferry on its way back up the lake to Brienze

The bike trail was interesting. It was very steep in parts with a. A maximum of 15.5% recorded with one section over 10%for far far too long.

We could hear what sounded like a bugle playing. Very loud and clear. I joked that it was ‘the last post’ as we were working hard on what was meant to be a chilled ride.

There was a sharp right hand turn and I needed a new cycling kit as a bus was rounding the narrow corner and playing its bugle sound at very loud decibels.

Those first two climbs are nasty pinches

As the path flattened out, we were passed by a young lady on a time trial bike, pushing limited gearing with very low cadence and sporting flash carbon wheels.

About five minutes later we caught her as the track turned to gravel and she asked Tony if we knew when the track would return to sealed. We did not know the answer.

There were some steep gravelly descents and we both walked our bikes down. We then arrived at Giessbach Falls, and I recognised them from a ride I did in the opposite direction in 2019.

There is a large hotel that can be reached from the water via a furnicular.

There are a total of 14 tiers.

After walking down from the falls, the bike path returned to sealed. Making our way towards the end of the lake, there were lovely views across the lake.

This is looking to where we need to head tomorrow as we make our way to Luzern.

We had originally planned to stop for coffee in the town of Brienze, but noted the growing clouds over Interlaken. I did like these two carved figures on the side of the road. There are some very clever people around.

The yellow bike below is Swiss Post doing deliveries. We have seen lots of these buzzing around in various towns.

More carvings.

Statues too.

We were then on the open road all the way back to Interlaken. Note the growing cloud cover. We had a beautiful lake view, and confirmed that tomorrow we would ride out on this lake side. There is a descent into Interlaken but that climb is far preferable to the bitchy pinches on the other shore.

In Interlaken we rode around trying to find a bike shop. We have seen so many on our trip and now we want one, the ones we did find were closed. Tony wanted some lube oil for the chains as we we are nearly out.

We stopped at a supermarket where I grabbed some lunch items that we proceeded to demolish outside.

We headed back to Wilderswil and chilled. 49 km ride, with a few harder climbs than ideal, but we will feel refreshed for tomorrow.

We went for a 4 km or so walk around the village, found a small supermarket and purchased items for a simple cold dinner.

I’m intending to sleep earlier tonight, which in turn probably means I will wake super early.

Tomorrow, we head to Luzern, a beautiful city and location. Hoping the rain holds off until we have crossed Brunig Pass, which is just over 1000 metres altitude. The web cam there is currently not working.

Thanks for reading, stay safe, smile on 😊

Aare River, Interlaken

The three stooges

Yverdon-Les-Bains is at the southern point of Lake Neufchâtel. We had wandered through the old town in search of dimmer the night before, sans camera. As I ate my breakfast I looked at the art work on the wall and decided we should detour into the centre on our way out.

The town has some lovely old buildings. I think this is the town hall built over the old town market hall.

An interesting building

The old castle dates back to around the 1100”s.

We had played around with mapping routes last night and decided to make the ride a tad longer but cut out nearly 1000m climbing. This meant that we would follow the south eastern side of the lake before peeling off towards Bern.

We were surprised that the shoreline features lovely sand.

Our route headed away from the lake and up a hill into the village of Estavayer-le-Lac. A lovely village.

One of two nice fresh water fountains we noted
The second fountain. Most water fountains in Switzerland are potable, unlike France where most are not.
Old fortified gateway as I left the village

Brothers Pierre and Guillame d’Estravayer were both in the service of England’s King Edward I. One was given Tipperary in Ireland making him Lord of Tipperary and was involved in the fall of Acre in 1291. The brothers built this castle with expansive views.

Riding through agricultural fields, crops including corn, wheat and a plant that was either kale 🙈 or a smaller silver beet, but definitely not spinach as the leaf was quite coarse.

Checking my map on my computer

Climbing away from the lake, one of our last views.

There were a few of these round homes in this village.

A river ( not sure of name) and a foot crossing bridge.

We needed to ride through the Swiss capital of Bern. A lovely city but this trip did not go through the centre but around it. It took well over one hour in busy traffic, including chunks of walking and scootering our bikes through heavy traffic. The camera did not come out as we concentrated on safety and navigation.

Once we cleared the city we could relax just a tad, but still on a busy arterial road until we joined the main bike trail. In the distance we have mountains again, part of the Berner Oberland range.

More kale or mini silver beet?

The mountains are getting closer.

This is one of the bike trails heading to Thun, following the Aare River

We arrive in another busy city, Thun. The Aare is fenced off in one section and used for swimming. In a complex of pools. I guess going one way would be easy but when you turn to do,the second lap it would be strong resistance training.

We stop outside the railway station to get our bearings and check our route, but are quickly moved on as it is also a bus interchange and we were standing in the way of a bus. We hurried on out of the way.

The photo below is from the local tourist association, showing an aerial view of Thun.

The last 30 km of our ride follows the shores of Thunersee to the edge of Interlaken.

The bike trail was a mixture of open road (with bike lane marked) or this brilliant path cantilevered over the water.

We are heading to Wilderswil, located in the valley behind the imposing cliff ahead.
Looking towards Interlaken, on the flat section at the end of the lake

Once on Interlaken we turn right to climb up to the valley where Wilderswil is.

Our accomodation is up a very steep hill, again, of course! Tony made a flippant comment about it, but what a view.

The view from the front of the accomodation looking towards Interlaken and Brienzersee

Our room has a direct view of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. In these photos the Eiger is obscured by cloud moving over. Tony kept waiting patiently for the Eiger to clear.

Later in the evening the skies cleared and this was our view as the sun set.

Tomorrow is our first rest day. We have now ridden over 2600 km, climbed over 16 000 m. What that day will entail we are unsure. The weather forecast is poor, so that rules out riding Kleine Scheidegg, a high altitude ride. Only 80 km but 2000 m climbing and one that you need good weather for.

We will wait and see and decide when we wake up.

Life is like a box of chocolates….

Looking out the door from our accomodation up to a local ski run. The day was crisp and cool. We had a beautiful home made breakfast and headed off down the hill.

Our overnight accomodation
Near our accomodation looking at nearby homes

We stopped in central Morzine and started putting more clothes on. We were freezing. We should have put our full leg kit on in hindsight as we still shivered for the descent. The sun was hidden behind the tall mountains on our right hand side. I shivered most of the way down and stopped often to thaw in the sun. I was feeling pretty uncomfortable and full of my clothing choice regrets.

There were lovely gorges that we rode through, but no verge to stop l,is they were all sans sun. We stopped only in the sun. Here are a few sunny photos whilst we defrosted.

The temperature increased considerably by the time we reached Lac Leman (Lake Geneva). It was 12 C and we stopped at a boulangerie to get a hit drink and eat, as this would be our last French boulangerie this trip. The Swiss and French border is part way along the southern shores of Lac Leman.

A couple of Lac Leman shots. This is the largest natural lake in Western Europe.

The border is close now, dual flags are flying. The traffic was super shite here too. Evian-Les-Bains was crazy and this was to be our experience all around the Lake.

My fault. I thought it would be nice to ride around the lake. Seriously cyclists, get the ferry across to Lausanne as that is what I would do next time. It is not worth all the traffic and road work angst we experienced.

The border was interesting. We crossed on the foot path, but cars went through the control area. The French did not give one iota. The Swiss had four border guards making more of an effort.

Leaving France with great memories. This was my 6th visit to France, and my longest.

Au revoir France, it’s been a great 20 days.

The positive is we are back in Switzerland, the starting point of our odyssey.

Waving France goodbye, or maybe Tony as we are in different countries.

There is an area where we needed to head inland (south) away from the lake due to a series of rivers. The area is lovely and open.

Back on the lake edge we pass through another busy town, again with roadworks and people everywhere.

That is Chillon Castle we are approaching. Chillon is in between Villeneuve and Montreal and is the most visited medieval castle in Switzerland and Europe. Yes, there were lots there today!

Chillon began as a Roman outpost guarding the strategic road to the Alps. In the 1600s it was used as a prison. I did tour inside this castle in 1987.

Now we have made it past the many hundreds hovering around, using our bike like a scooter, but this is a nice view with Chillon on the left, and looking over at the French and Swiss mountains.

Me waiting on the other side of the road whilst Tony photographs the lake

Montreaux was another very busy town to get through and we headed to the foreshore to look at one thing, along with hundreds of others. Again using the bike like a scooter.

The man who needs no introduction, the wonderful Freddie Mercury, an extraordinary talent the world lost far too early.

Grapes are grown all along the upper foreshore.

Finally we make into Lausanne, a large city and home to the IOC, the International Olympic Committee.

We had not had any lunch and bought a roll, two bottles of water and a small slice at the IOC small shop. Aud $37…….😊😳

Some photos from the parklands surrounding their museum.

The steps have the name of the person who lit the cauldron at each Olympics. 1956 Melbourne Ron Clarke.
The bikes enjoying the view and rest

Getting out of Lausanne was no walk in the park. We needed to climb a fair bit through the city, which was a bit tricky un cleating feet on a climb at pedestrian crossings, then trying cleat back in on a slope. 🙈 I kept hoping I could time the crossings with no one wanting to cross. At one crossing I thanked the lady for waiting.

It was then another 30 km to our destination. We had not eaten enough food today and both bonked and just concentrated on the destination. We ended up on agricultural farm paths again and one forest path which pleased us as we were sick of all the cars and people today.

We much prefer small villages and not the business of large towns and cities. I know many love that, with the cultural offerings such as museums and art galleries, but we like the peace and solitude and beauty of the simpler things in nature.

Touring you cannot avoid cities though, so you just have to bite the bullet and tolerate the frustrations.

Tomorrow is a big day again and we have just done some remapping work. Tad longer but less climbing, but needing to pass through part of Bern, the capital of Switzerland.

Until tomorrow, thanks for reading. Stay safe, smile on 😊

And so the journey begins…

I slept crap, again! Quite annoying waking 4 times a night whilst my body still has not adjusted.

Packing took a while as Tony needed to rig an alternative fastening system for one of our rear luggage bags, as the correct straps were left at home. A series of cable ties did the trick.

Tony working on his bike – nearly ready.
Mine is ready, sort of 😊
Each morning I have looked at this cat on the roof of the house across the road. It’s a black cat, let’s hope it is lucky.

Bidding Ben farewell we descended into Stein and crossed the Rhine into Germany.

It was a nice river path, with a variety of surfaces. The water was calm and peaceful.

Looking to the west, the direction we were heading.
Who captured my image on a broomstick without my permission?

We had decided to deviate from Germany and head back to Switzerland to a town we’d visited before en route London to Venice. Rheinfelden is a town in both countries, with a bridge joining.

Rheinfelden (Switzerland) to the left.
Looking across to Switzerland

The village was just waking up but we found a cafe to sit and have a coffee in the street below.

We had only done 20 km of what was to be a longer day so we needed to keep moving.

Back on a river track we had about 15 km to do to reach the outskirts of Basel. We rode through a series of buildings owned by Roche, which is where Ben works.

This stolen photo shows their twin towers. it was too hard to get a decent photo with this particular angle.

Looking towards the southern bank of Basel.
Looking to the north and Germany. Many barges go up and down the river.

We rode over the walkway connecting Switzerland to France at Port Louis and headed to Huningue and followed the canal, on and on and on.

The next canal was the south branch of the Rhone and Rhine canal, followed by L’Allan. One waterway seemed to become another seamlessly

Following canals can get a bit tedious. There are a variety of surfaces to contend with, plus more locks than I could count. There are also no shops meaning a lack of food options.

As we closed in around Mulhouse we departed the track to search for food, and lo and behold Paul’s boulangerie magically appeared. The food was horrid, just horrid…🤩🤪 No photos were taken as we were starving.

The building below was one of the few close to the waterways. This is a relatively modern building by European standards having been constructed in 1869. it is a seminary.

One final peaceful waterway pic.

We were pleased to arrive in Montbeliard as we were weary having ridden 139 km and adjusting to riding with the extra weight of our luggage.

Whilst it was relatively flat, we had had issues in a few busy city centres with road works, and needed to re navigate quite a few times

We were both pretty thirsty and hungry too. We had run out of water about 20 km short of our destination, so veered off the track and headed into a village. No shops. The school gates were locked but I could hear voices. I saw a lady outside her house so approached her and she kindly filled up our bidons.

We have showered and wandered around the town. Surprisingly most food places are closed tonight so made do with some basic food.

Breakfast in the hotel is at 6.30 am. We will be there promptly and will devour heaps.

Walkabouts in Montbeliard
Chateau de Montbeliard

The Chateau de Montbeliard is built on a rocky outcrop overlooking the town. There has been a fortress on this site since Gallo-Roman times.

In the 1300s the castle was privately owned until 1793 when it became part of Revolutionary France. It has since been transformed into a history museum.

Todays route is below. A three country day with 5 border crossings.

The bike survived its first full day. The Trek Checkpoint SL7 certainly handles the gravel and uneven surfaces well. it is slower on bitumen for sure, but you would expect that given the tyre size.

I am getting used to the gear change differences. Multiple times I tapped the right shifter to only make it harder lol. Etap uses shifters on both sides. I will get there.

I am hoping I get a decent sleep tonight and my tweaky back improves.

Thanks all,

Ooroo and smile on 😊

Mother’s Day jaunt

We were keen to get the bikes out to check and test before starting our cycle tour. I had a broken night sleep again with my body clock still out of wack. My back ultimately insisted I get out of bed and moving.

With Ben and Sharon still asleep, we snuck out and rolled down the hill into Stein. We thought we would just head to the Rhine River path, cross over to Bad Sackingen in Germany searching for a bakery to purchase items for our latter brunch.

We rolled out of Stein along a lovely bike path and arrived in Sisseln with a lovely smiley welcome.

We turned left and headed down on a dirt track to the Rhine River and admired the view.

My new bike, Trek Checkpoint SL7
Looking west along the Rhine River

We then followed this nicely formed path but were quickly turned back by a no bike sign. Then took the only other obvious option.

We pushed our bikes up a grassy hill and found another gravel path and headed back out onto the bike path, heading to Stein.

The view from the Swiss Stein side looking towards Bad Sackingen, Germany.

We rode back into Germany and nothing was open. You can see from our map we wandered around a fair bit.

Riding back into Switzerland across the covered wooden bridge. The bridge is 203.7 metres in length and is the longest roofed wooden bridge in Europe. It was built in 1272 and has been destroyed several times. The current bridge was completed in 1700.

Originally a road bridge, it is now only open for pedestrians since 1979

Viewing the bridge from the German side

Back at Ben and Sharon’s place we had a wonderful brunch with local. This was about half of what was on offer. We will need to ride 3000 km now!

We needed to work off some calories so we headed off for an afternoon walk in the local forest.

The first km was quite steep as you can see from the ascent map. Never shows in photos.

It was a beautiful forest, recently greened up with spring.

At the top of the climb, we walked around the edge of a farm with some curious cows.

The next paddock we managed to upset a bull who clearly indicated his discomfort with our presence, roaring and hoof scraping the ground. The single strand of electric tape seemed inadequate so we took the hint and moved on.

The upset bull.

Lovely farmland including flowering rapeseed (Canola).

Well signposted tracks clearly indicating direction and distance at Chatzeflue (top of this section of climb).

From Chatzeflue looking down the valley on the southern side towards the pretty village of Obermumpf.


More pretty park like farmland.

At Mumpferflue, the ever reluctant Ben complying with the photographers request despite his wife’s pleading.

Mum and son

We then descended on the northern side of the hill, with views back towards Germany

Looking westerly along the Rhine, Switzerland to the left, Germany to the right.

No breeze to fly the Swiss flag

The very pretty forest carpeted with a white flower that is used for culinary purposes. It has a sweet onion smell.

Decent little walk. Our second for the day. Total walking today is 10 km, and total pottering ride, 17 km.

All set to finalise our bag packing for the morning. We plan to be on the road by 8 am at the latest. We just need Ben and Sharon to be up so we can say farewell for a few weeks.

So stay tuned, as our odyssey is imminent.

Smile on 😊

It’s about time!

Dear reader,

It’s been far too long between blog posts and I hope I am not jinxing myself writing now.

After lots of map plotting and planning and we have a big, hairy, audacious goal.

This time in three weeks we will be in the air (hopefully) on our second leg of three flights – on that dreaded Melbourne to Dubai leg. After three flights and some 32 hours we will arrive in Zurich, catch a few trains and arrive in Stein, a village in Switzerland on the Rhine River.

My son Ben and his wife Sharon live there and we have not seen each other for nearly three years. Long overdue catch up.

Ben and Sharon….he hates having his photo taken. August 2019.
Wedding day photo.

After a few nights we start what is currently planned as a 3000 km, 25,000m ascent ride, starting and finishing in Stein.

The big, hairy, audacious plan

We will cross over the Rhine and head into Germany to avoid the busy Basel traffic, then crossing into France, where we will follow the Doubs River for a few days, before reaching the Loire River and following the river until it spills into the Bay of Biscay on the French west coast.

This first section is technically easier as it is not as hilly as later in the trip. But we have solid days. In fact our trip average is 114 km per day and around 900 m ascent.

Chateaux, castles, and history abound. Our route weaves around following the meandering Loire valley. We will reach Beaugency a town we stayed at in 2015 when we rode from Calais to Narbonne.

At the mouth of the Loire, Saint Nazaire we turn south for two days until we reach La Rochelle and ride to Il de Ra and island joined to mainland France by a long bridge.

Heading east we pass through many old and historic villages including Montlucon. It’s getting pretty lumpy now.

At Annecy we circumnavigate the lake before resting in town. Next day it’s off to Morzine, where Tony spent a few weeks in 2018.

Down to Lake Geneva, around past Chillon castle. I rode around this area in 2018 with broken ribs.

The Freddie Mercury statue and the IOC headquarters are a little further around the lake, and then we climb out of Lausanne and up to Lake Neufchâtel.

Lake Geneva

Getting hillier, we head towards Interlaken where we stay at Wilderswil near the famous Jungrau. If weather permits we will do the Kleine Scheidegg loop.

A brilliant loop under the face of the Eiger that is predominantly closed to traffic with the exception of the local postal service and school bus. We will only attempt this ride if the weather is good as it is some 1900 m climbing at altitude.

Luzern is next for two nights, providing another opportunity for riding around lakes and maybe a return ferry trip to Luzern.

Beautiful Lake Luzern

Then back to Ben and Sharon for three nights where I hope to be for a significant birthday with a zero on it. Ben and I share the same date and it was planned to be together in 2019.

Of course Covid could stuff up our plans but I guess that’s why we have the very expensive travel insurance.

So I harbour great hopes that I can get to see my son. Three and a years is a long time not to see someone you love.

My fingers are crossed xxx