Day 20: Kobarid to Palmanova (Italy)

Having spent the last two nights in a self contained apartment, we were ready to leave by 8 am.

Rain was a possibility later in the day but it was a lovely morning when we headed off.

We rolled down to the Napoleon Bridge, crossing the Soca at its narrowest point of its entire length. There has been a bridge here since ancient times. In 1616 the Venetians demolished the old wooden bridge.

The old Napoleon bridge was built in 1750 from stone. Napoleons’s troops marched across it on their way to Predel Pass, hence its name.

During WW1 Austrian soldiers blew it up, then the Italians built a wooden, then later an iron bridge.

Here is how it looked today.

We headed out along the quieter valley, through a series of small villages retracing our steps from two days earlier. The road was fairly quiet with the exception of a few cyclists, and people walking their dogs.

An abandoned hut
Low clouds

We turned right to cross the Soca and the views differed, one basking in sunlight, the other half more subdued.

The bridge was narrow and led us to a busier arterial road that we were on for some distance before eventually heading onto very quiet rural roads and pathways.

There were numerous of these overgrown cave like openings in the cliff. At the back of this one was a locked gate. Not sure if they had a purpose during the wars or a local storage area.

Hydro scheme

Rail bridge

Kanal has an iconic single span bridge that has featured in high diving world cup competition.

Steep short climb and this mosaic work, maybe I needed divine intervention?

The pathway followed the river, through some old rail tunnels and under roads.

This tunnel we jumped off and pushed the bikes. It was super narrow and inclined.

Out of the tunnel were these steps. They were hard work pushing the loaded bike up the ramp and walking the steps,

We watched this younger couple push their bikes up, easier than us! This is Lisa and Nico from Frankfurt, Germany, en route to Bologna, but heading to Croatia next. Lovely chatting with them.

The nice pathway continued.

At Solkan that bridge is used by cyclists and walkers, but we crossed further to the east.

The bridge closer up
We crossed this bridge, the Solkan, blown up during WWI by Austrian soldiers

Our last meal in Slovenia was here, coffee and pizza.

With the Italian border 80 metres ahead, we bid Slovenia farewell. 😢 It is a beautiful country.

Back into Italy we negotiated the busier border city of Gorizia ( co joined by its Slovenian neighbour Nova Gorica) before finding quieter roads. The rest of the day was spent on a real mix of roads from quieter to arterial.

The landscape had altered and was starting to look more Tuscan despite being quite a few days ride from Tuscany.

When we left Slovenia, it had started to spit with rain and it gradually got heavier as we approached our destination Palmanova.

The outskirts of this interesting town show the old moat and ramparts, You can circumnavigate the town following the pathways here.

We entered via this gate, single lane.

We ended up in the centre looking at the Duomo. We returned later to visit inside the duomo.

The Duomo features nice frescoes, ornaments, a glass coffin with a masked body.

Many of the sacred decorations were confiscated by Napoleon so they only have a few remaining.

It’s quite wet now, coats are back on as we walk our bikes around. Our accomodation did not open until 3.30 pm so we had some time to spare.

Best viewed from the air, what planning (Urban Trend Guesthouse photo, where we are staying)

Palmanova was designed as a fortress city. A city in the shape of a nine pointed star, in perfect symmetry, construction commenced in 1593.

Two defensive circles of walls were built during the Venetian era. In 1797 Napoleon occupied the town and a third defensive circle added during the second French occupation.

During WW1 the town was a selection and supply centre for troops fighting and suffered heavy destruction. During the latter part of WW2 the fortress houses an anti partisan centre of repression.

Since 1960 the city is an Italian monument.

The forecast is pretty drab. Rain, rain and rain. as we head off to bed, the skies have cleared and the duomo bells are ringing.

Let’s see what transpires in the morning.

Thanks for reading ❣️😊

Today’s 86 km route.

Day 19: Soca Valley

A beautiful morning. No rain forecast. The plan today was to do an out and back ride along the upper reaches of the Soca Valley.

Leaving Kobarid, high on the hill is the Church of St Anthony, that also includes an ossuary containing many arranged bones of soldiers killed in the World War One battle front.

We immediately started climbing and part way had to stop, for five minutes due to roadworks, where a bridge is being replaced/widened.

It was a lovely valley to ride through, up and down, but very comfortable climbs. We were riding at a super chilled pace, stopping frequently to watch the goings on in the valley and river.

Near the top of one of the climbs
The road was excellent, but quite busy at times. Many trucks and motor cyclists, as well as vans carrying canoes and rubber duckies.
Local hero memorialised
You do not tire of looking at the beautiful Soci river

Stand up paddle boarders. The guy in red is waving at us, and was super chilled, spinning around to go backwards whilst he watched his charges.

Canoeing and kayaking was super popular, with many vehicles carrying watercraft passing us, and many towns and villages with signs promoting their local businesses for the same.

Bushwalking is another popular activity, with trails around the river and valleys.

Quite a deep gorge here, I got vertigo looking at the lady on the other side.

Our plan was to ride to Bovec, the adventure centre of the valley, but we continued on up the valley to the village of Soca.

Just beautiful
Calmer river

At Soca there is one little bar/shop where they have nothing to eat but you can buy from their little grocery store and eat that outside. Most seem to stop for a beer or coffee. cash needed as their eftpos stopped working some time ago…

This guy was at that stop.

We met a lovely German couple at Soca who had arrived by car, but are also into cycle touring, and wanted to talk about bike set ups with luggage.

Sabina and Tobias have done some awesome cycling adventures including the Black Sea route to Istanbul. We recently followed a USA couple who did that route and followed their video blog. Always lovely to talk to like minded people who ‘get’ why you do what you do.

If you keep heading up the valley further, you get to Vrsic Pass, the highest alpine pass in Slovenia at 1611 metres. Between WW1 and WW2 it was the border between Italy and Yugoslavia, but today both sides are Slovenia 🇸🇮.

We headed back along the same route offering a differing perspective.

Roundabout sheep

A poignant reminder of war, where there are burials here of Austro Hungarian soldiers. There are four fields like this with only this field having markers. There are no names on the markers.

My paternal grandfather fought in WW1 (Light horseman in Egypt), my great uncle Alex died at the Somme (I have his bible), my maternal grandfather was in WW2 (musician entertaining troops PNG). I do not understand war….so many innocent people die. Just all to sad.

Stopped for fruit here in Bovec, grabbed a couple of nice bananas
Nice waterfall high up Tony saw when he went scrub for a nature call
Beautiful gorge as we crossed a bridge in a small village
I think zip lining may occur here as there was a wooden base near the bridge with the cable.
Beautiful mountains, serene views
Looking back
Looking sideways
Plenty of tourist info available, including English

It was a really nice ride today and I can highly recommend it.

The road was fairly busy with some cars zipping by fairly closely so you needed to concentrate and hold your line, and hope they hold their too! No bikepaths here.

Despite the savage and barbaric history of the Soca valley that saw the deaths of 1.7 million men, the displacement of 300,000 local residents (many did not return after the war, their houses having being taken over by soldiers or destroyed) the region survives.

Likes the phoenix rising from the ashes, the Soca Valley and Slovenia are on a positive, upward trajectory with fun and happy people filling the valley and making positive memories in a gorgeous, and unprecedentedly beautiful setting.

Today’s route was 66 km, with 823m climbing. My bruised hip hurts less on the bike than sitting on a chair or the bed!

I suspect the Giro d’Italia may have had a stage through here in a prior year as the road is well sealed ( often happens before a major tour comes through) and there were numerous pink bikes with Slovenian flags in villages.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 18: Ribcev Laz to Kobarid, Slovenia

I was a bit nervous about today. Not sure why. We had climbed higher and steeper, but I was just a bit nervous. I certainly wanted to complete the climb prior to any rain. That was forecast for later on.

We were riding from beautiful Lake Bohinj to Kobarid, in the Soca Valley. In between were the Julian Alps.

The climb is up to a pass at Soriska Planina and is the second highest climb in Slovenia.

Road quality is known to be poor and narrow.

Slovenia as an independent country is young. Other countries have fought to own and control it. It was part of the AustroHungarian Empire, then Italy, then communist Yugoslavia.

It was only in 1991 that the country became independent and they are concentrating on tourism as a way to improve their economic returns.

It is a beautiful country, lovely culture and people, and with time, more improvements such as super shite alpine roads will improve.

Slovenia is one of my all time favourites that we have visited, twice now.

We started off by retracing our steps the previous day along the wonderful cycle path, then turning off to Bohinja Bistrica. We avoided the central part of town skirting around to start the climb at 8 km into the day.

Our legs had warmed up nicely.

Roundabout just before the climb starts

Some climbing data.

The climb is 11.2 km long, average of 6.7%, gaining 752m. The steepest full km is 9.5%, more than hard enough for this chook, maximum slope is 16%.

The first half of the climb is very doable. It was more like 3-5%, but you know that if that is under the average for the whole climb, the second half is going to get sharper and harder.

Views were clouded by low level cloud.
Climbing
Nice views
Still climbing, good piece of road
Views increasing

The road was fairly quiet and climbing the road was patchy in places but better than we expected.

The road was mainly used by motor cyclists and we only saw one other couple cycling up….must have been locals as they had no gear and we passed them. They were doing very wide S’s up,using both lanes which concerned me should a car suddenly appear and they are on the wrong side.

There was a blind bend I approached, could hear a truck ahead and I jumped off. Just as well as the truck took all available space as I wedged into the rock wall holding my bike.

The second half was far tougher. There was around 4.5 km of 9-10% with no easing at bends, it just kept at that percent consistently.

Finally the top, we made it and no rain and no issues.

On Strava there is only one other person we know who has done this climb, and it is our extraordinary friend Kat from Czech Republic, who is the global leader in km on strava all time females cycling! She probably did it as a day trip from Prague!!

Soriska Planina is a base for winter activities, predominantly skiing but many MTB and walking trails are in the area.
Ski fields

We added extra clothing layers on for the descent. The roads were definitely worse on this side of the pass, very cracked up and patchy with overlays of fresher bitumen there and there.

It was a slow descent to ensure we pointed our front wheel away from trouble!

Lovely views across green pastures to villages
Many places have signs out for the motor bikes, seems a very popular route for them
The church is the central feature in every village. We got to stare at this one for about 5 minutes as this was on a climb and we met a red light for roadworks! It tolled at 12 noon, but went on and on with the chiming for maybe 3 minutes.
We then descended. We were at the front of the queue at the roadwork stoppage but let the traffic behind us go first. For that, we copped lots of dirt being dispersed by the truck. A series of hairpins here and we caught him as we descended faster than him, but eased back to not get his diesel fumes.
Road very narrow here, that is just one car width. This is a main arterial road.
Railway bridge
Stopped to take photos
Most na Soci bridge, and our first glimpse of the famous Soca river, otherwise knows as the Emerald Beauty attracting many people to view it first hand

Most na Soci is at the confluence of the Soca and Idrija rivers. Over 7,000 grave sites have been excavated from the Bronze and Iron Age. Of course, the Roman’s hate to miss out, and there is also evidence of villas and walls here.

Whilst these photographs were being taken,I swung my leg over the bike to hop off, but did not swing that leg high enough, clipping the luggage, falling to the road. Feeling annoyed with myself for the misjudgement got up, rubbed my sore hip and shoulder, moaned about the scratch on the shifters, and decided I needed icecream!

Mine on the left, Tony on the right. Lovely cafe, sitting in the shade.

Down the Soca valley towards Kobarid, our destination for two nights.

Despite all the map planning, routing time I spend, there are occasional stuff ups. This is apparently the most popular route in the area..I doubt it somehow.

This was not too bad, I could keep riding but I’m thinking ‘what the’?
At this point, I am like ‘you’ve got to be kidding me’…
But it gave us a nice view of the river….
Looked at the map and decided that there was only one thing to do…push through this field to the nearest road. There was evidence of many other cycle marks in the paddock as we got closer to the road, so we were not the first….

My left hip was pretty sore by now and felt like I had a balloon riding on it. Rubbing my hand over it, it was quite swollen. Feeling more annoyed with myself again.

We arrived in Kobarid, just missing the rain again, how lucky!

Kobarid was occupied by the Italy between the two world wars, and featured a battle for the Soca Front, until the first blitzkrieg in Europe broke a stalemate between Italy and Austro-Hungary.

This photo was taken from the small bridge crossing the Soca river. Tomorrow we hope to ride where than van is heading and further up the river valley.

Lovely small gorge

Checked in to our accomodation and finally looked at the lump on my hip.

Quite the lump, the length of my hand, width of two hands…not sure when I am laying the egg! That is my hip bone…

So I have iced it, had my hip up as high as I can, slept restlessly as it is the side I usually sleep on so that did not happen. It has reduced in size overnight thankfully, still very large but not as ‘intense’ so hopefully a good sign!

It is likely worse due to my cardiac medications…

Anyhow, nothing broken!

Todays route.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 17: Lake Bled to Ribcev Laz (Bohinj)

Years ago we were talking to cyclists about Slovenia and they said – go to Lake Bohinj as in their opinion it was nicer than Lake Bled.

So today we are heading to Lake Bohinj.

We had a lovely breakfast and headed off, for what would be another ‘active recovery’ day as the distance between the two lakes is not great.

We were on road for some distance then on bike pathway. The bike pathway infrastructure is being increased and we saw multiple construction sites today where pathway is being built.

A series of shots as we travel down the valley in the sun! When we were in forested areas it was still quite cool so the arm warmers would get dragged back up.

The water is amazingly coloured and clear.
I expect Julie Andrews to start singing about now.
I love the flowering meadows
Me chilling
Winding our way through small villages
Lots of cycling options
A random vegetable garden and shed, recently planted. The grapes are growing over the front of the shed nicely.
Beautiful forest trail
More meadows, and a popular flight path above

Lake Bohinj is surrounded by mountains on all sides, dotted by walking trails and well preserved old villages.

Ribcev Laz is the main settlement at the eastern end and our overnight stay. It was only 10.45 am when we arrived, well short of our 2 pm check in.

I approached reception to see if we could drop some of our luggage off and was told we could check in. Chatting to the lady about our adventures, she ventured to ask about my chest scar. I explained.

She processed our passports (ie seeing our age) and told me she had upgraded us to their ‘best’ room, that has two balconies on a corner overlooking the lake from both! How nice 😊❣️

So I loaded up a trolley with our gear whilst Tony minded the bikes.

We then headed off down the lake towards Ukinc and the Vogel cable car.

Arriving at the cable car base we debated what to do with the bikes. Should we hope for the best and leave them (decent thieves get through locks super easy with portable cutting devices these days), do we take turns?

I decided I was happy to chill, so Tony went up with around 25 people in the one cabin. It only takes four minutes to reach the top at 1532 metres (remembering we rode to over 2100 metres only a few days ago at Passo Gardena).

At the top there are other chairlifts that take skiers higher again to the differing runs.

There were nice views across Triglav National Park and the Julian Alps, the highest and most extensive mountain range in Slovenia.

Julian Alps
Bohinj Basin
Ubiquitous!
Numerous carved animals were at the cable car stop.

Upon Tony’s return, we rode to Ukanc a small settlement on the western end of Lake Bohinj.

We loved the Sava Bohinjka river. What a little alpine gem. it has the clearest water imaginable! It really does look this colour.

Lower side of the bridge
Higher side of the bridge
Yet another lake view

Back to our hotel, we stored our bikes, showered and laundered. We then went on a walk around the eastern part of the lake where bikes are not permitted.

We past this church that is apparently one the most photographed in Slovenia, although I would think the one on the island at Lake Bled may win that competition.

The church site has a significant history with coins found going back to the first century. The current church was build mid 11th century.

The bell tower was the first musical bell tower and plays the song…..Oh Triglav, my home. I have not yet heard the bells ringing!

Church of St John the Baptist with the musical bell tower.

Walking around the lake, of course, more lake photos 😊

Cafe lakeside
I soaked my legs. Initially it felt super cold, but as I adapted, it was pleasant. Tony was convinced to do similar shortly after taking this photo.

We walked further and lay on the finer gravel ‘beach’ just enjoying the view, waiting to see if we could note the cable car ascending. Good luck if you can spot it.

We were motivated to get moving after listening to the thunder.

Looking towards a neighbouring village.

Well signposted walks
Rules! Despite being private property, the lower green sign means that those activities are tolerated in the path through the property. just do not walk on the meadow!

A tandem paraglider came and landed 20 metres away from where we watched. I am amazed at their landing skills.

Just off the pathway was this little cottage lakeside. How adorable.

Opposite our hotel now is this statue de,nesting the first four men who scaled Mount Triglav.

Looking back at the church with the musical bells….still not playing!
A joy for OCD.

Our map today. A short ride (38 km) but a lovely ride. We need this recovery as we have a more difficult day tomorrow, and the weather forecast is not brilliant…..but let’s wait and see. 😊

Day 15: Rigolato (Italy) to Kranska Gora (Slovenia)

Out of bed, coffee, packed and off we headed motivated by the stomach for some food. It was cool and brisk, and we had our warm weather gear on as the forecast was not very high.

Descending down through villages..

Monte Zoncolon in the far distance. A tough climb the Giro riders undertook in 2018. I was there the same day and stopped part way up just before the 25% section.

Beautiful valleys and rivers.

The cycle path following an old rail line, including three tunnels in this section.

Looking back up into the clouds from the direction we had started.

The river must flood at times.

All was going well until here, then as I followed Tony an explosion of ‘stuff’ blasted out his rear wheel. He had a puncture, and as he has tubeless tyres that ‘stuff’ was sealant.

It was a reasonable gash and he was able to plug it with two plugs, pump it up, and the sealant did its job. Whilst he repaired, I cleaned.

We only went a few hundred metres and came to this…a river crossing. Unfortunately it was about 30-45 cm deep and decided we were not prepared to get that wet, just yet….so we detoured back, up and around onto the main road for a few km before rejoining the path.

We stopped for coffee in Tolmezzo then headed off on a quieter route out of town. We came to this impenetrable road block. Mountains to the left, river to the right, not a lot of options.

We rode back towards Tolmezzo and cut down to join the highway to cross the river to the other side.

The highway was good as it had a decent verge and we crossed the river and continued on our way back to the quieter route.

The quieter path ran out and for three km we were back in a major arterial road near the freeway. It started to pour. By now we were in lighter weight clothes as we were hot…now we were cold again…

There were many people stopped under the freeway crossover sheltering, including this nice young lad who from the Netherlands. He currently is studying in Austria and had ridden to Sappada the previous day to watch the Giro, and he was riding home.

I’m looking at his phone here as he was curious as to our destination. he did not have a rain jacket with him!

He told us the bike path we were about to join was fairly new and he was super impressed with it and thought it better than anything in the cycle friendly Netherlands.

He was right. We had about 50 km, mainly in the rain, of this wonderful pathway, freshly sealed, involving maybe 20 tunnels, the longest of which was 950 metres in length.

At most tunnels cyclists were sheltering at either end waiting for the rain to ease before heading off again.

The mountains and rivers were great viewing.

Then there are the locals who do things like this to make you smile.

An example of a well done pathway.

At an old railway station, Chiusaforte, is this amazing place. It is a cafe/ restaurant with an area for purchasing maps, cycling spares, souvenirs, maintenance area. Many cyclists had stopped as did we as the rain had eased.

But the rain came back and here we are in one of the tunnels.

As we got closer to Slovenia, the dramatic mountains increased.

Trail art

I really liked these old huts.

Tony took a fancy to this sign,

A picture of contradictions. Beautiful wild mountain vs cables.
Closing in on the three country borders.

7 km from our destination we arrived at the Slovenian border.

Slovenia – a country that we rode through back in 2019 from Maribor to Ljubljana to Trieste. This time we are in the Alps region, to the north west of the country, dominated by the Triglav National Park.

The history is rich and deep with evidence back to the Bronze and Iron Age. The Romans arrived in the 1st century AD.

We were just km from the Austrian border and it was tempting to climb another hill, but we are fortunate in that we have ridden in Austria on previous trips and we were keener to get to Kranjska Gora, our overnight destination.

Finally we had some downhill after climbing gradually for over 50 km.

Kranjska Gora is in the Sava Dolinka Valley and the northern gateway to the Soca Valley, where we will be in a few days time.

The town was a key supply base for the Soca Front during World War I but today is Slovenia’s premier winter sports playground with world championship level skiing events to hiking in Triglav.

The Church of the Assumption in the town’s main square dates from around the 14th century. The Romanesque bell tower is original, but most of the rest has been updated over the years.

Another great hotel, with our bikes stored in the very secure ski room. We cleaned up and headed out for dinner, finding a lovely restaurant a few hundred metres away. No room inside so we sat outside, which was not too bad as we had our warm jackets on and it was fairly mild. It stopped raining at the border!

We were entertained by a very noisy, celebrating group who were singing in another language and then started tossing their freshly poured wine over each other. Super weird.

I asked our waiter and he laughed and said ‘oh, they are Polish’!

This dog we watched too. It came with a family group but was tethered so it could have no family interaction. The noises it made were similar to our Khaleesi so we did watch it.

It was wanting to participate, have some pats, but instead the female owner wacked it around the head, pushed its head into the ground whilst we were gasping and saying no! Some people do not deserve dogs!

The dog heading off with its just as crabby male owner.

Back to our room, what a view!

It was a longer touring day today at 118 km, 902m climbing. An interesting climbing graph shows how long we climbed for.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Shades of Tuscany

This is the alleyway our bedroom window looked out into.  A funky part of Trieste. Our bikes were stored in the linen room, located up a different alley. It is easy to get lost with the plethora of similar looking alleys.

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Here is my bike, all packed up and ready to roll. This old fountain has been disabled from use.

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The first 5 km getting out of Trieste was a nightmare. Crazy Italian car drivers, pedestrians, motor scooters and an occasional cyclist heading every which way.

Disorganised and chaotic, yet everyone survives. They may be crazy but they are also quite tolerant.

A few km later and we have found a bike trail. Every now and then you just have to lift your bike and luggage over stuff!

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Today would be a three country day. What’s more, within 22 km of riding, we would have been in 3.

Here I am, on a bike path, leaving Italy and entering Slovenia.

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A few views of Slovenia, or is Italy?

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This is Slovenia and you can see that the vegetation is really starting to change from the first two weeks. It is taking on a decided Tuscan twist, with olives and grapes being the only crops we saw all day.

Within 20 km we had crossed the border into Croatia, requiring two more passport checks. Within a few days we have collected 6 passport stamps from Slovenia and Croatia!

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We passed numerous hilltop towns, also reminding me of Tuscany.

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In the photo below, you can see a whisp of smoke on the right hand side. As we were climbing, we rode through a thick patch, courtesy of a farmer doing a burn off.

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This old cottage is cute! Renovator required.

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This photo is by special request from my friend Ali, in England. This is continuing my New Zealand theme.

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Another renovators delight.

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Another beautiful hilltop town.

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Now this abode is for sale! I can confirm it comes with a great view!

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More great vistas.

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Towns ahead are well signposted with what is available. Crosses all languages, and a great idea!

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Views after views.

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With only 25 km to go out of todays 100 km, we stopped at a small cafe. Whilst we had no Croatian currency yet, they kindly agreed to take Euro.

We had two wonderful chicken, cheese and bacon burger, a large bottle of frizzante…all for 11 Euro.

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The next 20 km were fantastic. We descended through a gorge. At the top you could just see the water reminding me of some waterways north of Sydney.

There were a series of pop up shops selling their local wares.

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Nice colourful sign, no idea what it is about.

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The last few km into Rovinj were hairy. Impatient drivers!

We needed to get the ferry as tonight we are staying on St Katarina Island, off the Rovinj Coast, with lovely Adriatic waters surrounding us.

After some mucking around on the bikes trying to find where we were meant to be, we made a few phone calls.

At last we were on the boat heading away from the crowds. Rounding the rocky promontory reveals the best facades of the old town.

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We have been for a walk around ‘our’ island. Here are some of the views of the island and looking from the island.

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These gulls are particularly large (perhaps twice the size of our common seagulls at home) and nesting. They are as silly as plovers with some of their nest locations, but far more placid.

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The waters off the island are so crystal clear.

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Todays route and elevation profile.

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Well I must get some beauty sleep so I can continue the journey tomorrow.

A few last shots to show you of tonight’s Adriatic sunset.

Ooroo 😊💪🚴

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An Adriatic Sunset

A brilliant day on the bike!

It was very cold when we prepared to leave Ljubljana this morning. We had our winter gear on. Here is Tony getting his bike ready in the laneway outside our hotel.

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One final look at the Lubjiljana River as we cross over to the far side.

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Some shots as we departed through the city, cutting through various squares to avoid traffic where possible.

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A few km out of the city was this ‘bicycle tree’.

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In the distance we could see the hills had some snow. I suspect some was dumped last night given how cold it was.

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Beautiful Slovenia scenery.

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We stopped to grab a coffee at Logatec, and as we left a cyclist joined us on the footpath. We started chatting and his name was Nexa, and he is from Serbia.

He is riding solo from his hometown in Serbia to Lisbon (Portugal). Then he might ride up to The Netherlands. Nexa has 2 1/2 months leave.

Nexa was also riding to Trieste, so two became three.

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Continuing through the beautiful Slovenian countryside we later realised we took a wrong turn. However, that turned out to be a blessing in disguise (despite the climbing).

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This is looking towards eastern Italy and I suspect part of the Eastern Dolomites. Look at that snow! We will be in the Dolomites in 9 days time.

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Climbing! There was a bit today with numerous pinches of 15 percent, and a nasty 19 percenter! Very short, but very nasty.

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As we were climbing we noted three guys in sleeping bags on the ground behind this car. It was about 11am!

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More picturesque scenes.

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More climbing.

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Another pretty scene.

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Descending with a small dusting of snow on the hill ahead. We ended up at about 860m above sea level, and the lowest snow would have been maybe 950-1000 metres above sea level.

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As we started descending there was a collective “wow” as we saw the valley in front of us open up, snow capped alps in the background. The descent was nice!

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We refuelled in the town of Adjovscina at the base of the descent. I can highly recommend the route we took between Logatec and Adjovscina for a challenging, wow factor ride.

We hit the road again taking a fairly direct line route to Trieste involving more climbing through lush forest and farmland.

There were numerous vineyards in the area and plenty of pretty towns.

The major afternoon climb was on gravel with only the switchback sealed. It was reasonably compacted and ok for us ( I have 32 mm width tyres, whereas Nexa was on the standard road width if 23mm, so trickier for him).

 

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We crossed the Italian border about 10 km before our destination of Trieste. It is an open border between the two countries.

Finally our first view of Trieste looking towards where we will be riding tomorrow, the Istrian Peninsula. Nexa will be heading towards the Venetian Plains.

It was shortly after this photo that we bid farewell to head to our respective accomodations. Nexa was another highlight for us today. He is living his dream and passion, something we are both doing, so we acknowledge and applaud him for doing the same.

Many do not understand why we do, what we do….it would be the same for Nexa. But, we get it!

As per a quote on Nexa’s Facebook page, “Don’t wait for inspiration, be the inspiration”.

Ride on Nexa! Be safe, and may the winds be at your back!

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We had over 350 metres to descend.  This is officially my slowest descent ever.

Pictures never show what a slope really looks like. This is 24 percent and crappy cobbles! I know it only looks maybe 6-8 but the Garmin measured it at 24 percent for the great majority.  There were two sections, this is the second one.

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Downtown Trieste where we used our bikes like scooters predominantly on footpaths as we navigated towards our hotel.

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Todays route and climbing profile. A total ride of 101 km.

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We wandered around the old town after showering and clothes washing.

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We had an average Italian meal at a restaurant with a somewhat incongruous name of C’est le vie…that was belting out Frank Sinatra’s New York, New York! Whatever!

An above average sunset greeted us as we returned to our hotel.

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We do not usually do selfies however literally everyone else was so we thought…why not!

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The sunset cast a lovely colour on this foreshore building.

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What a fantastic day today. One error in navigation took us down a path not heavily trodden. We really enjoyed it, plus getting to know Nexa.

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So as the sun sets on day 14 of our adventure. Ooroo.

😊💪🚴

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Ljubljana

A very cool start to the day weather wise. It was brass monkey weather. Another nice breakfast and it was off to the Maribor railway station.

A boring and stark station by most measures. We noted the train was delayed 30 minutes.

I was fiddling with my bike when this dodgy character said something to me. I did not quite catch what he said, and he repeated it. He wanted me to,give him money, for who knows what?

I suggested he go to a bank and he said he wanted me to give him euros. Why notthat would be far easier! I pointed at my bike and said, this is it! I have no euros, I need some too!

He really unnerved me as he stood there and just kept staring….Tony was some 10 metres away seemingly oblivious. He then turned his attention towards Tony. I took his photo as I pretended to fiddle with my iPad.

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Tony then noted him, as the guy started to check his bike out, so he promptly relocated to where I was. We both stared at him and he turned away.

We followed some other cyclists to the train. Despite it being 30 minutes late in departure it was there at the right time at least.

We fiddled about in the bike compartment, having removed our luggage to store where we were seated, two carriages down.

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A very quiet and not particularly fast train, obviously not the express as it std at many stations.

A couple of shots out the train windows.

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Rugged up in my winter cycling gear.i call this outfit my spider woman one.

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A few more views.

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Two hours later we are in a very, very cold Ljubljana. I had booked a hotel on my iPad, so we headed straight there.

These were called hologram stones, a modern art installation.

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First views of the old town looking towards Ljubljana Castle.

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The Triple Bridges.

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Nearly at our hotel!

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Here we are, a view out our bedroom window of the Ljubljanica River.

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With our bikes in our room,we changed to go for a walk.

The Ljubljanica River has a fascinating history, with historical artefacts  from the Stone Age to Renaissance period being discovered by divers.

A few years ago, a stonehead was found, later dated to 35,000-45,000 years ago.

It is estimated that 10,000 – 13,000 objects have been located and sold into private collections.  The Slovenian Government now require diving permits with various conditions attached.

Local tradition holds that the river was a sacred place, with treasure being offered to the river during rites of passage, mourning or thanksgiving for battles won.

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I took a fancy to this bear outside a shop.

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Beautiful chocolate Easter Eggs, looking more like works of art.

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A door to the Cathedral.  We could not enter for a squizz as mass was in progress.

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There is a hungry pigeon going through the food stored on the back of this bike outside the door to the Cathedral.

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We walked up the hill to Ljubljana Castle, which has a recorded history of settlement from around 1200 BC.

Some of the views looking back over the city.

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Statue in memory of the Peasants Revolt.

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A section of the castle up close. Popular for weddings and corporate events.

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Walking back down the hill.

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Across the bridge with locks, including the crocodiles mouth.

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Curious aspect of this bridge is the transparent flooring. Weird feeling.

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Pub on the other side trying to entice patrons.

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Looking across the river to the castle.

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The Franciscan Church

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Back to our room where our bikes were waiting patiently, overcoats flung on the chair. We do not have  lot of heat with us, but it is extraordinary how far we can spread it in one room.

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The plan tomorrow is riding from here to Trieste, Italy on the Adriatic coast. We are in mixed minds re route, so need to sort that out pronto. Hoping the weather improves!!

Thanks for reading,

Ooroo 😊💪🚴

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Do you have a kangaroo in your bag?

It was drizzling when we awoke. We knew it would be as we had been spending a bit of time checking various meteorological forecasts last night.  The next few days were not looking great, and in particular tomorrow was looking dismal.

We had capitulated between heading to Zagreb (capital of Croatia)  or Maribor (Slovenia, near the Austrian border).

We decided on Maribor for a few reasons. Firstly, the route looked safer for bikes and secondly it lined up with Ljubljana and Trieste, with safe card options available.

We had a brilliant breakfast with lots of foods we had not seen or tried before.

It was very cool (8 degrees C)  and lightly drizzling as we left Verazdin.

This village was about 10 km into our ride.

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We were amazed by the art work on the egg.

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This lovely lady ventured along with a lantern to place at the base of the statue. She told us a lengthy story in Slovakian about the lamp and statue, however not speaking Slovakian, we failed to understand one word.

We smiled. That seemed to suffice.

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I think the countryside is often lovelier with rain. Most of our photos today have a rainy haze.

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Upon closer inspection, that is a graveyard directly below the church, on a reasonable slope.

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We bid Croatia farewell for a few days. In the photo below I am waiting my turn to handover my passport to Croatian border control.

You may recall that when we left Slovenia and entered Croatia yesterday that both border patrol men were devoid of a personality.

Today was different. I handed my passport through the window, the guy flicked it open and smiled and said “Australian!” I smiled and nodded.  He then said laughing, “Do you have a kangaroo in your bag?”. I laughed and crossed my head.  He wanted to know where we’d been, where we were headed.

As I rolled forward on my bike, it was ground hog day, as he asked Tony the same thing. 😂😂😂.

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Some 100 metres ahead, we then went through the Slovakian checkpoint.  No chatter but I got a smile.

Here we are then, back in Slovakia. It is such a pretty country.

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We were on some really quiet roads now.

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Lots of forest everywhere.

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We came to a red light as the road was reduced to one lane.  Looking back you can see a massive crane and an old castle like building. Not sure what was going on there.

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We crossed the Drava River. It is quite shallow here, and you can still see the castle and crane, and Tony’s bike.

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The view looking on the other side of the bridge.

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As with many European countries, every village has at least one shrine.

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We have been quite amazed at the stork nests. As we watched these two, I was convinced they we’re statues as they did not move.

However, the town air raid siren started its awful sound and scared the living daylights out of us, and the birds moved ever so slightly.

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Another village shrine.

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We had ridden through so many quiet villages. Neat as a pin, and all had a penchant for growing grapes. This is a typical size and structure.

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Cutting through farmland I realised I had not seen any canola today!

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We then crossed a dam over the Drava, that retained most water in a large lake, and streamed into a feeder canal.

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The lower side of the dam wall

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The higher or lake side of the dam wall

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The lake

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The canal

We rode around the lake…

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Crossed over this bridge.

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We arrived at the very scenic town of Ptuj. We decided to have lunch here at a riverside restaurant.

A fantastic meal of mushroom soup and entree sized beef stew. Just the thing to warm you up on a cold day, as the temperature had not yet reached 10 degrees.

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On the outskirts of Pjut was this highly decorated church. The white is not paint, but a plaster like product.

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The next 20 km was like this. Pure magic.

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We had a couple of short steep pinches. 19 degrees pulled me up though…bit tough with the gear on the bike. 14-15 percent with gear is my maximum, for a short pinch.

So here we are now looking over the river at the old town section of  Maribor.

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We choofed off to the railway station as we made the decision during lunch (again studying the meteorological reports and weather warnings) to not ride tomorrow and play it safe.

We will train the 120 km section to Ljubljana.  However, we could not buy a ticket! Only one train per day allows bikes! Tickets are purchased ready for the 11.45 express service tomorrow.

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We are staying in a very trendy apartment in the Old Town. Our bikes are with us (cleaned them up first) on the balcony.  Very nifty electrically louvres to open or shut. They are shut to keep our bikes dry.

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We had a brilliant dinner. Dogs are allowed in this restaurant. The table opposite has a little pooch taking up a seat. It was an incredibly pampered dog! You can just see the little dog in the photo and on the floor is its pink water bowl.

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A brief walk around town after our meal….brief because it was really cold and I am wearing  dress…bare legs…brrrrr.

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Our route today.

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Today was what I love best about cycle touring. The scenery was magnificent, the roads quiet (except the very slow crawl with start and finish towns), lots of laughs and soaking in the countryside ambience.

A shorter ride of 80 km was welcomed after 320 km in the previous two days.

Until tomorrow, thankyou for reading.

Ooroo 😊💪🚴

 

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.

Three countries, four seasons

We awoke to a glorious sunrise from our cottage in Tihany. Certainly the position of the cottage provided a wonderful panoramic vista. 2DFCA488-5DCC-49C7-8665-01BAB66BDF14

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We were awake early as the ‘bed’ was not optimal. It was a fold out couch. When I booked this place we were upstairs, but the owner put us downstairs because ‘we had bikes’. I guess I assumed there would be a bed.

There was no breakfast provided here, no local shops opened offering food until 9 am, amd we had a 180 km ride ahead of us,

I had one sachet of powdered chocolate drink in my pack, so we shared that.

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Tony getting ready for the day

We hit the road about 6.15 am. There are many benefits at that hour, the biggest is that no one else is up! Cars were infrequent.

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Once off the peninsula where Tihany is located on Lake Balaton we turned left, and could just still see the lake.

An interesting note re the lake. One of my cycling friends from near Prague, Milos, wrote on my strava feed that Lake Balaton was one of the few places that Czechs were allowed to travel to during the Czech communist era.

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At the 25 km point we found a little village supermarket open. Another advantage of being up early is that all their fresh breads and pastries had just arrived.

Here we have more hi tech Hungarian military items.

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This one took my fancy

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Then I thought maybe one of these in the front yard could send a clear message to pesky uninvited door knockers?

Still the roads were quiet and we really enjoyed the first 64 km of our ride into Kesethely, on the southern shores of the lake.

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It is easy for guys to have a pee when cycling, but for girls it is harder. I needed to pee and thought I found an ideal spot. Think again Sharron! I have never, ever seen such a sign!

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Moving right along……I stopped about one km up up the road, no signs around!

Flags flying on this castle. I imagine there would be a wonderful view of Lake Balaton.

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We were becoming increasingly concerned about the clouds on our left.

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I was never going to get a clear shot of this sign as there was a school group there, selfies galore happening. They had luggage to one side, and I did wonder if there might be a ferry service operating from the nearby pier.

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Our last Lake Balaton views.

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We spent over an hour checking out Keszthely including visiting some local bike shops.

Time to hit the road, as we still had 116 km to ride.

Heading out of town the headwind greeted us. Progress became quite slow. The clouds were not giving us optimism either.

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We stopped at a supermarket for food, and this new bike appeared, all set for touring. Cardboard box and rope does it!

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An old guy came out and filled that box with chicken sections he had purchased. He looked at our bikes and pointed to the clouds, telling us what we were hoping would disappear! “Rain”.

Yes….we started spinning those wheels and stopped here to don the rain jacket.  The wind was whipping into our faces fiercely and it had become considerably colder.

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At the next town after this photo, it was pouring and we pulled over into a bus shelter to throw our weather proof overboots on.

We sat….and we sat. We saw the worst of the rain off under shelter. We still had 84 km to ride so we needed to get back to spinning the wheels.

The wind had ceased! We were riding through beautiful forests. We had another deer run across the road.

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Another village, with an unusual building. I think this was the local civic centre equivalent.

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More canola, because you just cannot grow enough it seems.

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Deer warning sign…

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These are our last Hungarian photos about 8 km before we crossed the border.

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No farewell from Hungary signs only this one Slovenia! That pulled me up as when I had originally mapped the ride to Verazdin CROATIA, Slovenia was not on the route.

Tony had remapped it and his version went through Slovenia. Ok….so we needed to ride through a wedge of Slovenia.

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There were some guards at the border crossing checking out a very dodgy looking caravan. We got waved through to a toll booth for the autobahn.  Straight through again.

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Here is our first Slovenian town.

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25 -30 km in Slovenia was enough for today and we arrived at a very serious border crossing needed to see our passports…..two control points. One for leaving Slovenia, the second for arriving in Croatia. Two scary looking dudes too.

Crossing the Drava river for a second time we have our first views of Croatia.

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We are now in Verazdin, Croatia. A long day but satisfying 180 km with lots of undulations, and plenty of weather challenges.

Car driver speed  has increased significantly since Hungary. Many are fast overtaking inappropriately.

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I decreased our route size here so you can see we are bearing down on the Adriatic region.

After showering and washing our clothes, we walked around town and were immediately impressed by the car free spaciousness.

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We enjoyed a lovely and very reasonably priced Italian meal next door to our hotel. Our hotel has a wonderful king size bed! A proper bed!

We will be rejiggimg our next few days plans due to bad weather forecasts in the region. 20 mm rain forecast and I think Sunday will not be rideable ( in a safe and enjoyable way).

Ooroo, time for me to grab some breakfast and hit the road!

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