Day 10: Seto Inland Sea islands to Imabari

We had a couple of issues to contend with today. The weather and the fact that I’d been a klutz and left my reading glasses at Atsuko’s on Onomichi Island ( and we were at Mitarai on Osaki Shimojima Island).

There was nowhere around to grab any breakfast, so we got up early and packed our bikes as it was not yet raining.

Lucky we were awake. Around Shikoku many towns have loud speakers in the streets that play mechanised music on the hour, and in Mitarai it started at 6 am. The loud speaker was very close to our open window and it was super loud.

Leaving Mitarai, it was very quiet.the loudspeaker at 6 am had not roused the village.

The island views were not as clear, with lower levels of cloud and haze.

We rode the 8 km to the next island ferry terminal of Okamura. We were there by 7 am but needed to wait patiently as the next ferry was 8.30 am. We were able to sit inside the small terminal.

Arriving at the Munakata terminal on Omishima Island, Atsuko was waiting for us on the pontoon with my glasses. She had also been there the previous night at 7 pm in case we turned up. Feeling guilty but grateful for her kindness. ❣️

The change in plans gave us the opportunity to ride a portion of the island we’d not seen. It was still not raining, but the skies were threatening.

At the 30 km mark to go, the rain bucketed down. The camera stayed well tucked away. We got wet and just had to get in with it. We had 30 km left to go, so when we arrived in central Imabari were pleased to find our hotel easily.

It was 12.30 pm. We were wet and a bit cold as the temperature was lower. Check in was strictly 3 pm, but they provided an area inside to clean our bikes, gave us a bottle of water and somewhere to sit.

We actually sat on the other side of the divider on comfortable couches. This is where our bikes were cleaned.

The JR Clements Hotel is a bike hotel. Here they are in our room, being used as clothes racks! The staff did relent at 2.30 pm and allowed us to our room where we washed some clothes and enjoyed our showers.

We grabbed umbrellas from reception and went for a walk through the city towards Imabari Castle. An interesting site, featuring a huge seawater moat averaging 60 metres in length, designed to neutralise arrows.

The high stone walls and moat are the only original features with modern reconstruction after previous damage and demolition.

I’ve seen a few of these crabs on his trip. A kind of land crab. Nice colours.

The return walk from the castle provided the days highlight. Lots of noise from these jubilant men as they carried this golden shrine.

There are two men with batons who are directing traffic to allow the progress.

As they came past us we watched with great interest. One of the seeming leaders, came up to us, and gave me a wooden token on a string, with a little bell attached.

He told me that it was a special day of celebration and they were heading to the castle.

We had a brief chat before he moved on but he told me ‘I was adorable!’ 🤣😝 I have reminded Tony of this a few times since 🤣

The perfect sized souvenir for bike touring, although I will wrap it so that the bell does not jiggle!

The final photo is this huge propellor from a ship acknowledging the cities role as a ship maker.

Only four cycling days left. Another easier day tomorrow of around 70 km before 3 big days!

Thanks for reading! Smile on 😊❣️

Day 9: Tobishima Kaido

We have spent two lovely nights on Omishima Island, at the home of Atsuko who lives in the village of Furudo. She has lived there for 9 years, moving down from Tokyo.

Her English is excellent, and she did live in Oregon, USA for six years, where she operated an art gallery selling lovely paintings by her uncle.

Our bikes were well looked after.

This was out sitting area, Japanese style.

We had a 14 km ride to the port to get the ferry. It was quite hilly with pinches over 9%.

We arrived with plenty of time to spare, learning how to operate the ferry ticket machine.

Great views from the ferry that took only 24 minutes to reach Okamura Island.

Looking back at the ferry as it departed to Imabari and we continued cycling.

The plan today was to ride the Tobishima Kaido, a cycling route across five islands. We did it twice, as rode around each island. 89 km and around 560m climbing.

The weather was brilliant. The views, just awful. We could not believe how brilliant our trip has been with outstanding scenery continuing.

There were citrus stalls on the road edge.

There were decorative tunnel entrances, keeping the citrus theme.

There were decorative bridge panels.

Many places had a rail system in place to transport goods up the slopes.

Tony found a nice viewing seat.

We had noted this on fruit trees the last few days. Paper bags tied on we think to protect fruit.

Informative signs were plentiful.

Shimo-Kamagari Island was the southern most island we reached, and it was there we decided to have lunch in the historic town of Sannose, which was an old port town famous as a stopover for Korean emissaries and their entourage when they travelled to Japan during the Edo period (1603-1867).

We found a small cafe open, and the entire menu was in hiragana. One of the ladies was able to use her phone to provide a very clear translation. I chose ‘fish bowl’. What I received was plentiful fresh sashimi over rice, plus the ubiquitous miso soup. It was very tasty.

Heading back we predominantly were on the Honshu side, which whilst nice, was not as stunning as the inland sea side.

The final island heading to our accomodation was sea side.

Tonight we are in Mitarai, another historic village. The narrow lanes and alleys are still lined with buildings that date back to an earlier age. it is a designated Historic Preservation District of Traditional architecture and more recently a Japan heritage site.

One particular street.

Our accomodation is an old hospital, but from the outside we were left a bit gobsmacked! Wondering what I’d booked. Inside it’s ok. It’s a mixed accomodation hostel, but we have our own room.

Accomodation was difficult to find in the area. Food was even harder tonight! We were told of one place that would be open between 5-8 pm. We found it but it looked closed. No signs, nothing to even indicate it was a business. I noticed the door open just a tad.

An older man appeared and ushered us in. We were told ‘noodles’, so we just nodded and sat down. Noodles appeared, very spicy but figured that was all on offer in town tonight!

Wandering around town after our meal, we searched for a vending machine to grab a drink and took a few snaps along our way.

Tomorrow we head back to Okamura Island to ferry to Imabari, and possibly navigate around the first island on the Shimanami kaido. The weather forecast for tomorrow is rain. We are watching the radar and hoping the band slides a higher above Shikoku ❣️

Tomorrow was a bit of a flex day, nearest thing that resembles a so called rest day, so we possibly could minimise our weather exposure if necessary.

We will see what tomorrow brings….tomorrow.

Thanks for reading. Smile on 😊❣️

Day 8: Shimanami Island hopping

When life gives you lemons, ride on. The plan today was to circumnavigate three Seto Inland Sea islands, Ikuchi, Innoshima and Mukaishima.

This would involve crossing bridges on the Shimanami Kaido six times.You can see below the six bridge climbs, and another blip thrown in for good measure.

The climbs to the bridge have been well engineered with each access path around 1.1 km long and climb averages of around 3.1-3.4 per cent.

The view from the bridge connecting Omishima and Ikuchi islands showed the promise of another brilliant day. It was about 7.45 am when this photo was taken.

On each bridge there has been information on each bridge and the Shimanami Kaido.

The lemon comment and photo explanation. Ikuchi Island is known as the lemon island of Japan, with a mild climate and low annual rainfall, combined with their sloping terrain ensures the lemons receive constant sunlight creating a perfect citrus growing environment. Ikuchi is the top producer of lemons in Japan with around 600 orchards.

The island is not that big, so that is a huge concentration of lemon orchards.

The lemon statue was at the resting spot below, which provided a great view of the bridge we had just crossed.

Whilst I waited for Tony at out first pit stop, I took a better look at this vending machine. Stunned female cyclist, but on the front, information that the proceeds help to prevent cyclists paying a toll to use the bridges.

Interesting. We had noted the motor cycles (125cc and below can use the cycling lane) pay a toll of 50 yen per bridge. Money goes into a shute at the end.

Searching for coffee, we held out a glimmer of hope at Sunset Beach where there were heaps of bicycles set up to be rented.

Sunset Beach was quite nice. It had just been raked over with piles of sea debris being collected in a small truck.

No coffee. I suspect we were a bit early. I did find this character though.

Over the road was this old bus that had seen better days.

Making our way onto the bridge between Ikuchi and Innoshima.

This chap was interesting. We passed him on the road as he merrily roller bladed along, and did not think too much of it at the time.

However, as we headed back on our return route hours later, here he was a few bridges up still rollerblading. He appears to have done the kaido on rollerblades.

We could not pass the albino dinosaur without a quick snap.

The bridge between Innoshima and Mukaishima islands has the bike path under the vehicles. A totally seperate under structure.

Looking at the bridge from the side, you can make out the bike path below the vehicle route. Clever engineering again.

We were closing in on Ominichi, and passed this nice beach, then red bridge.

Ominichi, to cross or not to cross? There were multiple ferry options but we decided this was close enough. There is a cable car going up to a viewing platform in this image.

One of the ferry options.

Lunchtime! We stopped at a larger supermarket named Halow. I went in and was blown away by the fish section and wish I’d brought the camera in.

I grabbed some nice strawberries and grapes, and had such a hard time choosing from the many options in the sushi area.

The choice of Japanese cooking items was massive and so many I’d like to take home, but obviously on a bike a bit of a no go, and I could see myself ending up on the Border Security show playing dumb like most of them do 🤣🤣

You could hardly miss this guy in a corner. It’s purpose and intent was unclear. But King Kong dominated.

Then the song Science Fiction from the Rocky Horror Picture Show got stuck in my head….”But he told us where we stand, then something went wrong, for Fay Wray and King King, they got caught in a celluloid jam…”

The islands continued, remembering there are around 3000.

A quiet narrow road, this is a two way road.

Finally after 88 plus km, back on Omishima Island for the night.

We have been truly lucky with the weather the last few days. The sunscreen has come out, and we both have farmer arms and tanned legs. My glove marks are hilarious. I have white hands, but half my fingers are very brown almost looking dirty. From the half fingerless gloves.

We leave here tomorrow riding about 14 km to catch a ferry and do most of the Tobishima Kaido, a lesser known cycle route around the islands.

Dinner tonight was a selection of sushi and sashimi as there are no restaurants around this village.

We are ready for bed. Thankyou for reading .

Smile on 😊❣️