Day 10: Leba (Poland) to Hel Peninsula (Poland)

The best laid plans can go wrong despite everything.

Today was to be one of those days.

After a lovely Polish breakfast, where the young chef explained what he’d made and had so much interest in me liking his food, understanding its local origin and no chemicals.

He’d made this lovely crepes with a light creamy filling. I enjoyed those with locally cured beef.

Everything has onions though. Onion and I are not best friends and these little balls he insisted I try…onion, onion and a bit more onion.

I secretly hid them in my disposable serviette, popped into my jersey pocket to deal with later.

We packed our bikes and Tony decided to pump up his front tyre. Lots of cursing, his tyre totally deflated and he could not get air in.

We were going nowhere.

I recalled seeing bikes at the back of the shed so went back into the small castle to enquire. A man arrived a few minutes later and said he had a compressor.

The wheel was removed, taken to the compressor and we had air and off we tootled.

After only a few km of sealed road we hit non sealed surfaces. Another 45 km or so today of varying surfaces.

This was shitty! When I see Tony sliding ahead if me and release his foot from the pedal cleats, I know to go slower than slow.

Riding through sand is hard, many points you push your bike.

At this nice junction in a forest we stopped to remove some clothing. It was only 11 degrees Celsius, cloudy, but with occasional sun we had warmed up.

Again today we mainly followed EuroVelo 10 and 13. Whilst having our routes clearly on our bike computers, it is always nice to see the EV signs.

We had sandy and muddy pot holes.

The undergrowth vegetation had changed. Lots of heath like plants.

These were cute. In two villages were thesedog poo bins. We could do with some of these near us for the ones too lazy to pick up after their dog and dispose appropriately, including a couple of public areas I try to maintain.

It is very pleasant riding through here. Nice trail and forest.

We crossed a bridge in the forest. Views to the right and left.

In Wladyslawowo we searched for a bike shop. We had been very conscious that our pump was faulty and if either of us got a flat we’d be a bit stuck and need to wait for the next cyclist to venture along.

Wladyslawowo is a large town and whilst searching saw a few interesting buildings.

This is surely purely ‘decorative’?

Found the bike shop and this lovely bloke who is Polish but speaks great English.He has been touring around Poland for around 2,000 km so far. He went into the shop to assist with interpretations in purchasing a replacement pump.

We arrived on the Hel Peninsula, a 35 km sandbar separating the Baltic Sea from the Bay of Puck.

The plan was to ride to our accomodation, some 8 km short of the peninsula end, ride up there sans gear, grab dinner and head back to our lodgings.

Tonight we were booked into camp huts that looked ok in the pictures. I had lots of difficulties finding somewhere suitable for the bikes as most accomodation is privately owned apartments who were not keen on bike storage.

The bay was calm.

For the most, this was the cycle path surface.

Boats out of water.

Continuing on our merry way.

We were staying in a campground that had many good reviews. It looked like this from Booking.com images.

We could not figure how to get in there. There was a caravan storage place for derelict caravans and a desolate, abandoned, graffitied building with fences and locked gates.

We rode up and down the road.

We noted a small pedestrian gate not latched. We pushed through, riding through long grass, past what looked like the setting for a horror movie.

The place was abandoned and desolate and plain creepy.

We got to the cabins and quite clearly, they had not been used for some time.

There was noone waiting to greet us as per our check in instructions. I messaged them as there was no phone number.

Surrounding the cabins, maybe 50 metres away were more crappy looking caravans. One had a car and motorbike.

We just needed John Jarratt’s Wolf Creek character to pop out and I’d have screamed.

We could not stay here even as the only guests. We did not feel safe.

We made the decision to bolt.

The plan tomorrow had been to train to Gydnia for our next section so we headed to the nearest railway station. The ferry left too late in the day.

There is a one way train from Hel! Good to know.

There were ticket vending machines. I purchased two adult tickets but it would not let me do the bikes. The machine does not print a ticket.

The train arrived, we boarded. There were two other bikes on board. The Polish conductor protested in Polish re our bikes. He did speak minimal English enough to say that there was no room for our bikes.

I pleaded my case. He ended up rolling his eyes and blew the whistle and the train departed, with us on board.

He came back multiple times with long messages in Polish.

I handed over our credit card and he charged us for the bikes. Problem solved.

We later found out from a lady using her Google translator that only two bikes are permitted. We were bikes three and four.

The reason I could not add the bikes to the ticket was that those two owners had already booked bike tickets.

Fortunately they both got off within two stations.

So a bit of tension and we arrived into Gdynia to find a hotel. I had a quick look and noted two larger ones that may cope with bikes.

Took a mountain of energy to get the bikes out of the station, down stairs, up stairs, up ramps that were designed by non cycling engineers.

We found the Mercure hotel by chance. It was one of the two. I went in, booked a room and our bikes are in our room!

So here we are. I have requested a refund from Dodgyville Camping and Booking.com.

With self planned tours, you need to think on your feet and come up with solutions. You are self reliant. But it’s worked out ok.

The only down side is not seeing the best parts of Hel.

We have ridden 113 km today so another solid day. Here is our route.

That’s it for today. Thanks for reading 😊❣️🚴💪

Day 9: Ustka (Poland) to Leba (Poland)

Another fine day.

A great start to the day with a lovely breakfast. The lady spoke to us in English with an Irish accent. Turns out she is Polish but lived in Dublin for 9 years.

She gave us wrap to make some rolls to take with us today. Super nice of her.

We headed off via a paved pathway through forest, running parallel with the beach.

Again we would follow EuroVelo 10/13 for most of the day.

The village of Wytowno put old bikes to use plus an information board with local history.

Towns and villages all have similar signs. The lower sign was also used in Germany.

In Rowy wooden carved statues appear every hundred metres or so.

The Slowinski National Park is another Baltic coast park. It was formed in the late 1960’s to protect the area known for its large, shifting sand dunes. The dunes are encroaching at up to 10 metres per year.

The three lakes were once bays off the Baltic. Forests have been swallowed as has a village!

Sand dunes and touring bikes don’t play together well. Horse riding and trekking are the recommended ways of seeing the dunes.

Shutter stock images:

Meantime, we’re in the forest section. Someone made themselves busy with this pile of rocks.

The trails varied. These are good sections. we did have some very pot holed sections and far too many km of mislaid, multi angled concrete slabs that were jarring.

We did around 45 km today off road.

Another village, more wood carvings.

Little lakes surrounded by peat bog marshes.

We had lunch on a bench seat to the left of this sign. I was having very light food due to an upset stomach. Too many different foods perhaps.

This is where we deviated from EuroVelo for the rest of today’s ride. It went through more unpaved forest and given my tummy and Tony’s sore neck we opted for the busier, sealed arterial road.

We do love to the storks nests. In this village we counted five. In the second image you can see the nest is formed on a man made ring provided for this purpose.

The nests are incredible structures. So high up.

The last 10 km featured a nice sealed and separated bike path. The headwind made it tougher, but nice to be on a path.

Leba was the last town in today’s ride, another busy tourist town, with the wind biting hard.

After World War II, Leba was occupied by the Red Army. Eventually after the Potsdam Conference, unit was returned to Poland.

Leba was where the defence prime Rheinmetall tested long range weapons back in the 1940’s. Up until 1973, Meteor sounding rockets were also launched.

Leba port area
Three days running we’ve seen similar ships.

A beautiful white beach. Not sure if the dredging equipment is for the river channel or do they move sand around?

Tonight’s accomodation is an old 14th century castle in Nowacin, on the shores of lake Sarbsko. Our bikes are well secured in a stone outbuilding.

At the entrance is this dude. There is small change on the tray.

After dinner we wandered to the lake. Hire boats were available.

84 km today. We still have three full days riding left in Poland.

One thing impressing us is the amount of green forest that is preserved, and just how many people are out and about enjoying the forests and parks. In wet weather, they are still out and an out, just with appropriate clothing.

Todays route.

Thanks for reading. ❣️😊🚴💪

Day 8: Kotobrzeg (Poland) to Ustka (Poland)

Sunny skies. Yes! today we had 122 km to ride to get to Ustka, another town on the edge of the Baltic Sea.

We headed back up to the beach and turned to the east. Paved boulevards through more forests.

Nice long white beaches, only broken with the erosion control posts.

We were to follow Eurovelo10 and 13 for most of today. EV10 is a Baltic route over 13,000 km long. EV10 is an iron curtain route some 10,000 km long.

The surfaces today were mixed. Overall very good compared to yesterday, interspersed with dirt and gravel section, and other parts with those cement slabs with holes so you go bump, bump, bump for the length.

We were cyclists 22 and 23 to enter this section, and nearly 71,500 have passed through since January.

We were riding along narrow stretches of Land with the sea to our left and inlets, lakes or other waterways to our right.

Gaski, a name I can pronounce, as there are so many Polish names I cannot get my tongue around.

This cute statue was near the Gaski sign.

The beach here was long and unimpeded.

It was 10 am and whilst the sun was out, maybe 15 degrees Celsius and there was a strong, coolish breeze. Never too early to sunbake on the Baltic.

Random nicely renovated wooden boat in the forest.

We headed inland twice today to go around large sea lagoons.

Predominantly farmland, with rapeseed (canola) the dominant crop along with wheat and occasional vegetables.

I think the next two pictures are Darlowo.

Riding back along a narrow slither of land, with the cement blocks seen below, we did encounter a few sand drifts.

This was a push the bike up section. The path may have originally gone to the higher side on the left, but there was a large washed out section not yet repaired.

At the next town we learned how to use a tap and go toilet with all instructions in Polish. There was a turn style preventing you entering the toilet, with cameras watching.

We did eventually press the right sequence and pay 4 zloty each to use the loo. There was no light in the toilet for 4 zloty either! One zloty is about 41 cents AUD.

Jaroslawiec was the last larger town of the day, located on the coast. Another lighthouse, and shops selling the same soft toys, buckets, balls and a plentiful supply of icecream shops.

I liked this statue. Lots of detail.

A really pretty inland lagoon.

A nice village church.

Then we had a long gravel section weaving through farmland and wind towers.

The final section of about 6 km into Ustka was an excellent sealed path. The sign below has been on paths the last three days.

Translated, it says Western Pomerania, the region of Poland we have been travelling through.

As we found our lodgings, two blokes in cycling gear were locking an exterior door to a bike shed. Awesome!

Today was a longer day, flattish, but still with surface challenges. After 122 km we were glad to be here, shower, launder our clothes and head off for a walk.

Walking is good after cycling as many hours as we have. Stretches different muscles and helps with the lactic acid build up.

The town is quaint, some with painted images.

Down by the river, there are decorated boats and a draw bridge that lifts every hour for 15 minutes.

The ubiquitous lighthouse features.

Glorious beaches. No sunbathers.

We found a nice restaurant along the waterfront boulevard for dinner. We were hungry and they supplied the food quickly.

Ustka is a nice town, lots of interesting homes and architecture.

This is our hotel. Well positioned, convenient, good bike shed and hopefully a great breakfast.

Check in was quick and easy. Usually our passports are checked, copied but here they did not want to see them. No city tax here either.

Our route today along the Baltic coast. A solid day but another wonderful day to see the region, communities and way of life.

Thanks for reading. 🚴❤️💪😊

Day 7: Swinoujscie (Poland) to Kotobrzeg (Poland)

Not the most exciting view from our room, but I do love the sign on the window.

Cloudy with drizzle was how we started our cycling day, but not before a lovely breakfast.

There are four floors of accomodation here and we think there are only two other rooms in use based on the breakfast table set up. It certainly was super quiet.

We packed the bikes and headed to the river. There are a distinct lack of bridges in this town and we needed to transfer across by ferry.

The ferry is free. No cars crossed with us on this trip, but there were a handful of cyclists and a few walk in pedestrians.

Ferries leave every 20 minutes from both sides. I presume the ferry operational costs are cheaper than building a bridge and the payback would be far too many years.

Ferry crossing from the other side

After a few km we were riding through a forest on dirt tracks. We did about 20 continual km on non sealed in the first 25 km. in places there were thick drifts of wet sand that were difficult to get through.

A good section

This was interesting. Wolin had an underground complex here pre World War II. The area formerly belonged to Germany and there are over one km of underground tunnels. You can visit in guided groups.

The forest traverse was close to the ocean. We needed to walk our bikes down the next section as the sand was over 30 cm deep with large ruts and wash aways.

We passed two young blokes who had been on our ferry crossing here. They had made a concerted effort to pass us earlier on so we smiled that the oldies caught up.

We were to see them on and off again for the next few hours with various stoppages.

We rode through the Wolinski National Park. It was particularly nice with lush vegetation, red squirrels and small deer. The paths were better quality than the earlier sloppy ones. There were many walking trails and a zoo.

With the Baltic Sea close on our left hand side, the forest provided great protection from the blustery coastal winds and persistent light rain.

On our right hand side (south), we passed numerous small lakes.

Czajcze Lake

We stopped in a small town looking for food. A statue of Neptune drew our attention in the village of Wiselka. We found a small shop to grab some supplies.

Leaving the town and dirt behind for a while, we were following EuroVelo 10 and the path was nice and smooth!

The further we travelled, the more holiday and camping sites appeared. There does appear to be an interest in all things military in the area.

I thought the little blue vehicle was ‘cute’.

We continued to ride adjacent to forests between the ocean front and the main arterial road. A curious fox darted out to have a better look at us. Unlike the non cooperative deer and squirrels, this little one stood watching us enabling me to grab my iPad.

The town of Dziwnow is a holiday township these days, with salt springs discovered last century. We followed the river along for some distance.

Village after village along this stretch seemed dedicated to tourism with lots of construction occurring.

We have noted that overall, the Polish coast has been less affluent than the German, but with the amount of construction and tourism in the region, can only think the region will become a power house in the regional economy in time.

We went through Rewal and Niecxorze.

EuroVelo 10 had significant trail sections in the last 20 or so km, through plantation forestry areas. Still not as bad as our first 25 km by any means.

After 108 km, with around half being on dirt of various quality, we were thankful to arrive into Kolobrzeg safe and sound and without mishap. Both the bikes and our legs needed cleaning before checking in.

The reasonable clean bikes are in penitentiary.

We have half board lodgings here so dinner was included. Tony noted we were by far the youngest there! This is a spa town so I guess there are many seeking the youth elixir.

We ate far too much of a variety of Polish dishes on offer. Fish being very popular here as a main ingredient. We headed off for a post dinner walk of around 4 km.

Heading to the beach following broad paths through more forest.

A Baltic Sea white beach. These beaches stretch along the northern German and Polish coastline for many hundreds of km.

Looking to the east, our direction tomorrow
Looking to the west.

Lots of signage and curios.

The lighthouse was first constructed in 1899, and stands at the entrance to the port of Kolobrzeg.The Germans blew the lighthouse up in World War II as it was a lookout point for the Polish artillery. After the war it was rebuilt at a slightly differing location.

Found a Viking boat, of sorts 🤣

This statue intrigued me. Either the guy was little, or the fish was huge.

We have now been on the road for a week. We have ridden just over 700 km in our first week. Not a bad touring effort.

Today’s route along the Baltic coast.

Okey dokey, I’m having trouble keeping my eyes open. I need sleep.

Thanks for reading 🚴❣️💪😊

Day 6: Stralsund (Germany) to Swinoujscie (Poland)

Today had it all. Sun, rain, wind, shelter, sealed paths, cobbles, dirt, rougher tracks, great sights, friendly cyclists.

We enjoyed our stay in Stralsund, what a gem of a city. Great hotel with our first buffet breakfast in one week away.

The bikes were stored in a lower level bike storage room. Great place for touring cyclists.

Leaving the city we followed the Stralsunder Fahrwasser around the coast.

Our first shot of the day looking back towards Stralsund

As we turned slightly inland on the designated cycle route, adjacent to a busy arterial road we started what would be around 20 km of cobbles. At the start we had no idea it went so far as our maps showed a sealed surface, not what type.

Lots of rolling resistance and bumps that jar through your hands. After about 10 km of this, Tony had enough and headed to the busy road at a junction.

It was a busy and there was no verge, and he realised we were safer on the cobbles.

It looks smoothish but on a bike it rattles.

It went on and on. In villages the cobbles became a larger cut, very rough cobble.

We were in a crop growing farm region, interspersed with the occasional dairy farm. The cows were still in their sheds.

Elation when we hit this. Would it last?

A renovators delight.

Plenty of renovated boats in the first large town of the day, Greifswald. The river Ryck runs through and at the mouth through a series of bays into the Baltic Sea.

Small statues adorn the riverside. We found a place for a ‘coffee’ and a loo. The coffee was not the best, but it was warm.

Pit stop, love the Pissoir name. We payed 50 cents to use the loo.

We edged closer to the river mouth then headed slightly inland again.

Nice church in the little village Kemnitz.

We passed a sculpture park.

Wolgast was where we found some lunch. Being Sunday very few places were open, including supermarkets.

As we ate it started to lightly spit with rain, so we donned our over shoe booties and raincoats. Rain was forecast and you always hope they are wrong and you might reach your destination first. Today was not that day.

Wolgast is coastal and we were to cross a bridge to the island of Usedom, where our journey would continue.

Usedom is a Baltic Sea island, shared between Germany and Poland. It is the second largest Pomeranian island after Rugen (where we rode through yesterday from the ferry terminal at Sassnitz).

Interestingly it is the sunniest region in both Germany and Poland with 1906 hours of sunshine annually. Today was not using any of that ‘allocation’.

It is super popular as a holiday destination as we would see with very large villas ahead.

There are also heavily forested areas with really pretty walking and cycle trails.

Much of the rest of the day we utilised these paths. The forest provided protection from the rain as it got heavier (more nuisance level, not pouring) and the wind that was super strong along the beachfront.

Typical flat section in the forest. The path weaved and undulated.

There were various jetties and access points along the way.

Signs by lakes
More forest paths.

Huge villas in the tourist haven of Ahlbeck.. In this area we were riding along a paved, wide boulevard adorned with places to buy food such as crepes, ice creams or beer. We could imagine that when the 1906 sunshine hours are in action, the place would be packed.

No one was swimming today.

Here I am, half in Germany, half in Poland. The boardwalk behind me heading to the beach had German coloured uprights to the left, Polish coloured to the right.

We were only a few km from our destination in the Polish town of Swinoujscie. We are in the far north west corner of Poland, in the region of Pomerania.

At our hotel when I checked in, I sorted out where the bikes would go. I had been given two options with booking. Upon checking both options, we took the dead end corridor only accessible from reception.

As I filled out the paperwork for our passport ID, I was aware I was dripping water on the forms and floor.

Tony had cleaned the grime of our bikes, relubed the chains ready for tomorrow and making them look decent enough to be in the building.

A welcome shower and we headed off to dinner at a recommended local restaurant. I had Polish chicken dumplings with cranberry sauce. Very tasty.

Rain is forecast for the start of tomorrow, then hopefully clearing and sun is forecast for the next few days.

Poland will be interesting as we weave our way along the Baltic coast.

Our route today is below. We rode 110 km and climbed just over 500 metres.

Thanks for reading.

❣️😊🚴💪