Day 8: Holyhead to Arklow

A new country day today. The Republic of Ireland.

We headed off to the ferry around 730 am. You cannot head directly in to the port as there is a very long security fence you need to get around first.

As we headed to the ferry, view of boats in the harbour at Holyhead

Once in, check in was quite simple. Security even simpler. Foot passengers were having luggage and belongings xrayed and walking through a scanner.

Take a bike, security not checked. We were sent around the side of security to meet two men at oversized luggage. That lack of security surprised us for cyclists vs foot passengers.

The bikes are strapped onto a trailer, that is towed onto the ferry, remains in situ for the trip, trailer towed off in Dublin.

We then boarded a transfer bus that drives onto a vehicle deck, and we then headed to our cabin on deck level 9.

Looking back to Holyhead port , an Irish ferry had just departed from the next berth. We had initially tried to book on that one as it left earlier, but they do not take bikes on that crossing.

I had purchased a cabin for the trip, a superior portside. We were both very impressed with it vs our experiences in Tasmania and Croatia with ferry cabins.

The cabin was so spacious it had a full sized double bed
Pod coffee maker with a huge range of coffee pods, and hot chocolate. The fridge had 6 drinks in there. Plus there were chocolate and chips.
There were two lounge chairs, plus a huge window. You could sit up on the bed and see out the window.

So we had a super chillaxing trip. We were in the cabin for over four hours, with the actual travel time 3 hours 20.

Leaving the harbour, Holyhead Mountain under cloud.

You can see both Holyhead and Dublin on this map, close points between Wales and Ireland. Arklow, to the south, was our destination today.

It was a non eventful crossing. Tony slept for part of it.

As we closed in on the Irish coast land ahoy.

Looking south towards the Wicklow Mountains, where we were headed.
Looking north, Howth, a nice suburb of Dublin.
Looking north towards North Bull Island, a flat sand island and Howth. We have just entered Dublin Bay and the mouth of the River Liffey.

The port is spread out over a larger area. Our ferry nosed into its dock, as it is a roll on, roll off ferry with openings either end.

Being a foot passenger, keen to get pedalling, was super frustrating. It took maybe 45 minutes to leave the ferry, transfer onto a bus, then get our bikes, waiting for us at the luggage carousel.

Then getting out of the port took time. It is hugely busy with big trucks and cargo container movements. . There is a cycle path and many red lights. After a few km we left the port premises to begin the next part of our ride.

Dublin is the capital of the Republic of Ireland, located on a bay at the mouth of the River Liffey It was established by the Gaels around the 7th century followed by the Vikings.

Today it seems we had the route ‘tour de red lights, road works and crazy antics’ to commence our Dublin memories.

It was super stressful riding out. There are some crazy drivers, but also patient ones. Thencyclists were the worst. No helmets, going across the flow of traffic, weaving in and out of cars, whilst we just went with the flow, obeying everything.

It is taxing as you do not realise until later how exhausting it is concentrating so hard. Make no mistake, we do concentrate on the open road too, but the intensity and adrenaline factor is just different.

After about 10 km, we were on quieter arterial roads heading towards the Wicklow Mountain National Park, Irelands largest national park covering 23,000 hectares.

The area we went through was Djouce and Tonduff on the eastern flank.

We stopped at a local convenience store and grabbed some food, as were were both hungry. The map on the outside of the local park section. We had just been through Killegar Woods, and Knocksink Woods were next.

The area was hilly. The graph below shows our bigger climbs. The first was getting out of Dublin from sea level. The second was ahead through the Wicklow NP.

When we climb, our bike computer has a graph for each climb, showing where you are, what the gradient is currently, what the gradient is ahead, and each gradient section is colour coded. This climb had a red section, ie steep steep steep.

The view on the red section looking west
The view looking east
East
West

Looking towards Roundwood, where we stopped at the chemist to grab more toothpaste, and Panadol for Tony.

The pub in Roundwood

Riding through forests was to be a feature for the rest of the ride. Lush, green, stone walls edging.

Most of these were taken by Tony as he rode. Without slowing significantly, he opens up his front bag, gets the camera out, takes the photos, puts the camera back. I watch from behind knowing I would end up on the ground if I tried that.

Rathdrum situated high on the western side of the Avonmore River valley, flowing through the Vale of Clara.

A local business promoted in the area is “donkey walking” where you travel from village to village at a donkey’s pace and overnight in local accommodation. The donkey can carry 15 kilos and cover 10-15 km per day.

We did not see the donkeys today, but saw this statue. Named the Farmer and his dog. It was placed as part of a town rejuvenation project in 2019.

The Vale of Avoca was very pleasant to ride through, as it was predominantly downhill, following the River Avoca. The area is known for its woven products, with many smaller mills and local producers having signs out.

River Avoca

Looking up the hill from the river, is this old mine installation, known as Williams Engine House, one of the few remaining in Ireland. Mining was huge here in the 1800’s predominantly copper and pyrite.

Williams engine house

These are both newer churches, from the 1800’s, one in better knick than the other.

The final major town today was Woodenbridge, where I originally had us staying. It has a stone bridge known as the “wooden bridge” – only in Ireland!

Arklow was today’s final destination and we are now on the southeast coast of Ireland. The town was founded by the Vikings in the ninth century. The town is at the mouth of the River Avoca, the longest river within County Wicklow.

We were really pleased to arrive at our accomodation. Super friendly lady stored one bike in a locked area but she was apologetic for the junk in there leaving no room for the second.

She would find another area to lock the second bike. I casually suggested perhaps we could take it to our room? (That always tests the accomodation providers and you get a very clear no if unacceptable to them).

She said, oh yes you can, but won’t it be in your way? We are like…..nope ! So we have one bike with us. That means we can get it set up before breakfast at 7.15.

We had a great meal in their restaurant. Fish and vegetables for me, beef, sweet potatoes chips and vegetables Tony.

So that’s a wrap for today. Total km less at 81 for the day with just over 800 metres of climbing.

Tomorrow is about 113 km, 900 metres of climbing ( I think?) and we are heading to Waterford. A bit of rain is possible, but we will see.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 7: Corwen to Holyhead

We said farewell to Sue and Alan this morning. We had a lovely time and thankful for the friendship. 😊❣️

Leaving Sue and Alan’s house

Todays ride was excellent. The scenery was amazing, the weather was good, and despite fairly solid and consistent traffic on the A5, on the whole, the drivers were patient.

Sue and Alan had recommended a coffee stop in Betws y Coed, a popular town to visit within Snowdonia, a centre for outdoor activities within Gwydyr Forest.

Over the road from the town sign, Tony checking maps to THE coffee shop

We found it! The Alpine coffee shop, complete with a bike on the glass roof, and an orangutan.

The No Bikes signs were everywhere.

Inside the coffee shop they have items to sell raising funds for the preservation of endangered orangutans. This is a cause dear to my heart, as for a number of years I was the Tasmanian Coordinator for the Australian Orangutang Project, aiming to raise awareness and funds to assist stop these intelligent and beautiful animals becoming extinct.

How can you help? Do not buy products with palm oil (unless certified sustainable), donate or sponsor an orphaned orangutan, and learn more about their plight. Australian Orangutan Project

I threw some pounds into the wishing well ❣️

Behind the cafe are old railway carriages, and station platform.

Tony looking suitably impressed

Next door to the Alpine Cafe is another cafe, with this sign. We did laugh.

Leaving town we passed by this church. A relatively young church built in 1870, replacing the former 14th century church.

Heading out of town we climbed from about 28 km to 50 km. It was very doable and easier than the graph looks.

We were riding along the A5 between two our twin ranges of Snowdonia, the Carneddau and the Glyderau.

It was spectacular, and the photos do not show how high they really are. It was awesome riding this region. Lots of ‘wows’.

A string of photos as we progressed along the road.

A lake approached. Llyn Ogwen lies at a height of 310 masl, and has an area of 78 acres. It is very shallow with a maximum depth of 3 metres.

Of far greater interest though, it is claimed that after King Arthur’s final battle (Battle of Camlann), Sir Bedivere cast the sword Excalibur into this lake, where it was caught by The Lady of the Lake.

One of the Zwift clubs has referred to me on many occasions as The Lady of the Lake, when we are having a Monty Python banter fest, so riding by this lake did give me a laugh and giggle.

Click to view a video of the lake area.

Before we descended we pulled off the road as we crossed a bridge to have a look.

Looking back up the mountains you can see old stone fences.

I particularly liked this one looking down the valley.

Over the road walking trail signs pointed the way.

Descending and looking back

note all the stone fences

Having left the mountains we arrived back on the coast at Bangor at the Menai Strait. The jetty was super busy.

Although there was no interpretive panel, these stones and sacrificial slab are not ancient ruins. I think these are Gorsedd stones, which form an integral part of Druidic Gorsedd ceremonies.

There were pleasant views across the Menai Strait to the island of Anglesey.

The Menai Bridge was built by Thomas Telford in 1826….I mentioned him yesterday re the aqueducts we visited. He was a super busy man! We crossed this bridge to Anglesey.

Looking back towards the Menai Bridge.

Looking forwards towards the second crossing, the Britannia Bridge.

Nice views and forests.

Then we arrive at the town with the unpronounceable name! That is the shortened version.

In full, knock yourself out!

The tourist hub has what it means.

The next point of interest was on Holy Island reached by bridge crossing the Cymyran Strait. Trearddur Bay was busy with bathers and families on the beach. I checked the weather gauge. It was 17C.

The toilets had a recharge station for e-bikes.

We were now only 5 km from our accomodation so we moved on.

The end of the last climb.

We are now in Holyhead. Another solid day, 117 km and over 1000 m climbing…again!

We ate our breakfast for dinner. Tony has a pinched nerve in his neck/shoulder area so hopefully that might abate overnight.

Thanks for reading, bed time 😊❣️

Day 5: Aberystwyth to Corwen

The weather was cool and blowing a gale when we awoke. We had beautiful harbour views and amazing long, bay windows to enjoy the view.

I can recommend the Glenrowan Hotel for cyclists. We had cleaned our filthy bikes up before checking in, and they allowed the bikes in our room. The bathroom was huge and could easily hold multiple bikes without issue.

We had a big bowl of porridge and fruit for breakfast and headed off. We were surprised just how cool and breezy it was.

After a flat one km or so, we entered a nasty one km steep climb up last the Aberystwyth University. With cold legs, lungs and a racing heart, the body did protest greatly, so I walked the second half.

The ride levelled out with ups and downs, and the first of the rain showers hit us. So we stopped in a lay by and popped our booties on.

You can guarantee when you do that, it will stop raining. Looking forward, the rain stopped!

Looking north, it flattened along the coast, and this picture is looking towards Aberdovey, at the mouth of the Dovey river.

We had noticed signs re an osprey project, then saw this metal art work, and stopped to look at it.

Whilst there we got chatting to Shaun and Jason, who were from Cardiff and off on a day trip to the Snowdonia’s.

We headed back in the road in the search for coffee, hoping the town of Machynnlleth would have something open on a Sunday morning.

Machynlleth is a market town in the Dyfi Valley, and the seat of Owain Glyndwr’s Welsh Parliament in 1404, thereby claiming to be the ancient capital of Wales. Owain was the last native born Welshman to hold the title Prince of Wales.

There was a pub open, and we were able to grab a coffee, sitting outside pondering whether to out the rain jacket back on.

I reckon the rain jackets were on/ off 25-30 times today. Put them on, rains, climb a hill, get too hot, take them off. Repeat.

This is a stolen photo showing the town clock, which was significant covered by scaffolding due to refurbishment works. It looked to be the nicest structure in town.

We headed off onto quieter rural roads and crossed this bridge, smiling at the life buoy. It was quite shallow, but fast flowing. I am sure older kids who can swim competently would have some fun here.

This section of the ride was very pleasant, passing through Llanwrin, Mathafam, Cemmaes Road, Cemmaes, Aberangell and Mailwyd.

It was a fairly quiet road, except around the shooting range. It seemed very active in the range, with the sound of gunshot echoing around.

It was good that they sponsor the Air Ambulance.

The hardest task of the day way just ahead. We knew it was a tough one. It started to rain again, and we could see waterfalls high in the hills.

This is our climbing graph for the day. You can see that we had gradually climbed from about the 20 km mark to 47 km. Then there is that brute of a chapel spire.

We did not find out until later that this hill had a name, Bwlch Y Groes…or Hellfire Pass.

On the upside, it did offer brilliant views of the surrounding Welsh countryside of the Aran mountains. On the flipside, it was a seriously difficult and brutal climb on a loaded bike.

The road is sealed, but narrow with no verge. It hits a maximum of 25% through some of the ramps. It is regarded as one of the steepest, toughest and most spectacular climbs in the country and regarded as a truly definitive climb.

It was used between and after the wars by the Austin Motor Company and the Standard Triumph Motor Company to test prototype cars and their performance during hill climbing.

Heading up here was the first warning sign and there is me peddling along to start the serious stuff some few hundred metres ahead.

Well I lasted 300 metres or so, and got off the bike. There were a few issues.

I need space climbing so I can weave a little. With the heavy flow of traffic this was impossible.

Then there was the headwind, it was fierce.

The cars back up on a climb with no verge, and with lots of cars also descending you can frustrate drivers ( mind you, the Welsh drivers have been friendly and fantastic). You stop to let them pass, but climbing is super hard to start again on a slope once stopped.

With an imminent total knee replacement now scheduled, recovering open heart surgery and let’s face it, I did not have the strength nor skill to ride up this. I made the safe decision and walked.

Taking the next few photos was super hard. Holding the bike on the slope, in the wind, without it falling over took all my strength. Pushing the bike up is also very hard.

I swung back to snap this one of Tony. He lasted about another 20 metres. You can see the lack of space on the road.

I did get back on the bike for a few short sections but walked the majority. A camper van stopped and asked if I would like a lift. I immediately said “yes” but then changed my mind as I knew I’d be disappointed to not do this under my own steam.

At the top looking back down the valley you can see the road to the left.

The top

Once at the top Tony took a video he later put onto social media. Near the end of the video there was a toot from two motor cyclists. Amazingly it was Shaun and Jason whom we had met earlier in the day.

Descending was pleasant. We liked these old stone walls.

The views opened up, and we looked forward to Cross Foxes, a pub located at a busy road junction part way through the descent.

Boom, and here we are. We got a table outside, and do you note something? It is sunny!! It had been slow progress to this point and we felt we would be getting to Corwen at dinner time!

The post lunch ride was totally different. It was downhill for a while, then a series of uphills, and then undulating for the rest of the ride. We made up some time as we were able to ride at a faster pace.

Some of the views.

This is Lake Bala. To the left, there are people swimming in the lake. there was a campground full of campers.

Bala Lake was the largest natural body of water in Wales before its level was raised to provide water for the Ellesmere Canal. It lies between the Aran and Arenig mountains at the fringes of Snowdonia National Park.

Getting closer to,our destination we enjoyed this forest.

Stopping to photograph this bridge, that we then rode over.

Looking down towards Corwen, we were ready to finish.

Nearly there!

Corwen stands on the banks of the River Dee beneath the Berwyn mountains. There is a man standing in the river fishing.

After 114 km and 1327 m climbing, we arrived at the home of Alan and Sue. We have not seen them since they visited Australia around 2015. We had ridden Lands End to John O’Groats with Alan in 2013.

I did not write the blog last night as we chatted. Instead I got up before 5 am, whilst the house sleeps, to do the blog. It is now 7.15 am, and the house is still quiet.

We have our first and only scheduled rest day today. The day is looking beautiful.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 4: Builth Wells to Aberystwyth

Following on from last nights Storm Antoni warning, we were in a conundrum as to what to do. Safety is paramount.

Options included getting the train to Shrewsbury, staying there, or getting a second train to Aberystwyth from Shrewsbury.

Our friend Graeme rang us with his thoughts and he suggested a taxi to Rhayader and riding from there.

We went down to breakfast at 7.30 am still unsure. There was a lady cyclist from Germany there pouring over train time tables. We chatted and she was also unsure as to what to do.

The guy in the corner said it was going to hail today. I jokingly told him we did not need that kind of negativity, laughing. He laughed and said it was a typical Welsh summer.

The owners of the accomodation said the only taxi was a sedan.

We has a very yummy breakfast and went outside and looked around. We rechecked the rain radar, wind forecasts and thought we would just go for it. Whilst it was likely to be wet, for the majority the wind would not be an issue.

Heading out of Builth Wells past the random cow, we followed the river. Park Run was setting up for the diehards.

The first two km was pleasant following a bike path adjacent to the river. Then the climbs started.

Down one hill and looking up to the next short climb
We were predominantly in an agricultural area except for this church.

When Graeme suggested we bypass the first part of todays ride it was partly because of this ‘cycle path’ being unsealed, and of course, the recent rain, that was continuing to fall.

When we started, it looked like this. Ok, we could cope with that. But then it went into a 2 km climb and the puddles dominated.

It is hard to tell how deep the puddles are, unless Tony is ahead of you 🤣🙈 but then he coped better than me, and pulled clear.

I really thought I would end up on my side, soaked. However, proud to say I got through this 5 km quagmire unscathed, bar my filthy legs and bike.

Tony managed to snap me going through one. There was one super deep puddle. The water went up to my ankles as I peddled through.

There were pleasant views, and this looked like a pretty fancy home.

We popped out at this village, and I did not write down the name. From the signpost, it appears to have many walks in the area.

Tony managed to be considerably cleaner than me on his legs. He grabbed his drink bottle and squirted water over our disc brakes to clean them.

On the next sets of climbs, we were on sealed single track, with the occasional house or farm. I really liked the ferns on the stone wall.

We stopped here, as we thought this was a very pleasant sight by the river, with sheep grazing. Sheep seem to freely roam these parts.

Another flash home.

We turned right to ride through the Elan valley. We arrived at the Elan Village looking for a toilet and food, as we thought the visitor centre looked closed as we rode past.

I went up to the Elan Valley Lodge to see if we could purchase a drink. I was told “No, this is a private lodge”.

The village and reservoirs were designed by the architect Herbert Tudor Buckland as part of the scheme, and the village is the only purpose built model village in Wales.

Call me ignorant, but the village seemed to me to be a string of building all in a row. Maybe I missed something.

Heading back out across the river, there are these old bridges.

The Elan River, looking south from the bridge

As we rode past the visitor centre, the buildings we presumed to be closed, were in fact, not in use. We needed to ride a farther 300 metres or so past the entrance. We found our food and coffee!

The Elan Valley contains four dams along the Elan River.

It is also famous for its picturesque scenery. Over 80% of the valley is designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and a popular cycle trail, the Elan Valley Trail, makes a loop from Rhayader around the reservoirs.

In between dams we were passed by these two cyclists. We did laugh at how keen one was for this photo, standing in the water with his bike.

We noted many trees had been cut down. Carvings had been done on numerous.

Back to the dams….

The dam is overflowing here, going under the lovely bridge.
The road goes up, then up a bit more to the junction. You can see further down the valley.
Eek, via mountain road …hmmm

As it turned out the mountain must have been more hill like, but the views were outstanding here. The area reminded us very much of Scotland.

We descended down to that white dot of a house

This area was interesting, with many km of mining residue on both sides of the road. Lead mining used to be very prevalent in the region. Piles of waste are dumped everywhere. Old buildings are all destroyed, looking like there had been fires within?

Oh here I am again, climbing, with Tony waiting. Today there were six climbs that had pinches over 20%. Tony rode each of them. I walked those pinches! No way can I do 20% even without gear on my bike.

At the top of this climb was “the arch” a former gateway to a local estate. But marking the start/finish of the Elan Valley

Next stop was Devils Bridge – unique in that there are three separate bridges, each one built upon the previous bridge. The most recent was an iron bridge erected above the older arches in 1901. The original bridge is medieval and the second was built in 1753.

The name Devils Bridge was named reportedly after an old woman lost her cow and saw it grazing on the other side of the river. The Devil appeared and agreed to build a bridge in return for the soul of the first living thing to cross it. When the bridge was finished, the old woman threw a crust of bread over the river, which her dog crossed to retrieve, thus becoming the first living thing to cross it. The devil was left with only the soul of the dog.

Not taken today, I’ve stolen this one, but showing the three bridges.
Standing on top of Devils Bridge, looking down, walkers head down to admire the bridge and river.

During the summer a narrow guage railway (The Vale of Rheidol) runs 19 km from Aberystwyth to Devils Bridge. The railway opened in 1902. Since 1989 it is operated and maintained by a charity group.

After all our climbing, we needed to get back to sea level. We did this on a cycle trail down this narrow road. The skies are lifting, and the rain has stopped.

It was super steep. My hands ached from squeezing the brakes so hard. There were pitches in excess of 25%.

On a steep descent section, we needed to give way to the train heading back to Aberystwyth.

There was about another 10 km before arriving in Aberystwyth, and it was blowing a gale on the waterfront. It was a super strong headwind with gusts.

Aberystwyth, a university town, is situated on Cardigan Bay on the west coast of Wales. A long seafront with a pier stretches from Constitution Hill at the north end of the Promenade to the harbour at the south.

The beach is divided by the ruined Aberystwyth castle (1277) that was destroyed by Oliver Cromwell in 1649.

Part of the remains. Look at the angle of the tree limbs. It is super windy.
What the castle looked like way back,when.

Our final stint was to head down the far end of the waterfront to the coloured buildings. Our accomodation is in one of those. The tide is low, with substantial exposed rock.

Nearly at our accomodation looking back towards the castle ruins

When we arrived at our accomodation, the sun came out. Of course!

The beach over the road from the hotel
Waterfront sea view looking towards the Republic of Ireland, with the Irish Sea in between. We arrive in Ireland on Wednesday.

Today was tough (95 km and 1385m ascent). Yesterday was tough too. It rained today for about 90% of the ride. Just consistent mizzle and drizzle interspersed with some heavier showers.

We did get a bit cold there for a while thinking about warmer clothes in our bags. We could have stopped but did not fancy stripping off in the rain.

The challenges today were definitely the 5 km of dirt and mud. I found that super challenging.

We had six climbs with over 20% but got through them each in our own way.

The views scored highly!

Thanks to Graeme for this route. He did this with his daughter Matilda only a few weeks ago, also staying in this hotel. Great recommendation.

Tomorrow is another day. It is another biggie with 115 km planned and about 1500m climbing. I’m not even checking the weather tonight. I tend to wake by 5 am so I will do it then.

Thanks for reading, I’m going to get some shut eye now. 😊❣️

Day 2: Thames Head to Monmouth

We were awake by 5.30 am, but breakfast was not until 8 am 🙈😳 The bikes were packed and ready to go and at 8 am we presented ourselves.

Whilst waiting for our order, a couple from Chicago turned up. We had spoken with them the previous day. They are walking the Thames Path to London and were starting today.

The lady busily chopped raw onion, added sliced pancetta, and sliced a 1 kg block of cheese, making bread rolls for the day. I did wonder how long the left over cheese and pancetta would last in her backpack en route to London.

I’m being a total sticky beak here, but somewhat bemused and curious re the cheese and meat, let alone carrying a large partial.lt cut onion in your back pack.

We were on the road by 8.35 and the first 12 km or so was on the very busy Bath Road. I was certainly pleased to reach Tetbury.

Tetbury is the village location of King Charles III private residence, Highgrove House, although legally, I think it is actually now owned by the new Prince of Wales via the Duchy of Cornwall.

The town has a history over 1300 years, since 681, when King Ethelred of Mercia gifted the land to an Abbott.

The Snooty Fox, a pub in town, great name.

Some of the town buildings including the old market square, Cotswold stone buildings and Llamas in Pyjamas 🤣

Nice old church entrance

Leaving Tetbury we were riding along farming lanes connecting villages. The one below is around the rear boundary of Highgrove land.

The stone walls have been incredibly well constructed. They are all dry and works of art.

In the village of Leighterton is St Andrew’s, a thirteenth century parish church. I like the timber clad belfrey with its shingle roof. The church has a slate roof.

More agricultural views. It makes for pleasant riding, despite the continual up and down slopes and infrequent cow pats on the road (one of the reasons our drink bottles have enclosed lids).

Lovely forests and distant views towards Wales. Riding laneways like the one below are great, but you always need to be wary as this is quite narrow and cars pass with difficulty.

It was a hilly ride today, climbing around 900 metres. Here I am near the top of yet another climb. Most of the rural climbs were upwards of 12%, which is more than enough with the extra gear on the bike.

You can see Wales now in the background. Just out of view on the left is the Severn bridge, where we will cross into Wales.

Another interesting town, but we really busted our boilers here. Our mapping took us up the seeming shortest route to the Main Street, with a nasty 15-16% climb up Ludgate Hill.

I was hoping I did not need to give way at the top as I need a metre or so of flat to be safe in removing feet from the cleats to give way ( versus falling over)! Fortunately no cars and I was ok.

The Main Street half way up from Ludgate Hill junction

A series of super narrow lanes ensued. These are barely one car wide. If a car comes either way you need to either get into the bushes or move forward hoping to find a lane access into a farm.

Chunks of our route today were on the Avon Cycle Way which is an 85 mile circular route around Bristol. We were on parts of the northern section.

This laneway was a bit of a goat track. You can see the Severn bridge to the left with its white tall towers. Behind the crane is the Thornbury parish church.

Thornbury is quite pretty. I liked this regal flower display.

Thornbury Castle is a Tudor structure commenced in 1511. The castle was confiscated by King Henry Viii who stayed there for ten days with Anne Boleyn in 1535. The castle fell into disprepair after the English Civil War, but was renovated in 1824 and now serves as a hotel and restaurant.

I was fortunate to have stayed in the Castle in 2007 for two nights so passing by today was to admire the building only, as this was not to be our destination tonight.

The Parish church of Saint Mary started in 1340 with latter major additions. The church is the resting place of the entrails of Jasper Tudor, uncle and mentor to the young Henry Tudor, later Henry VII of England.

We were hungry but we pushed on. The sky was quite dark in patches, and rain was forecast.

As we crossed the Severn river and entered Wales, it started raining. The river is the longest in Great Britain at around 354 km in length. It is tidal here, and quite muddy.

Heading into Wales

We stopped to put our rain jackets and booties on after exiting a narrow laneway, and sat under a rail tunnel.

Looking down the laneway
Tony coming down the laneway
Colourful graffiti
Where we sat.

Chepstow, is the first major town we entered in Wales, adjacent to the border with Gloucestershire, England. It is located on the tidal River Wye.

We stopped at a small supermarket on the busy road versus heading into the town, as the rain motivated us to keep moving. Lunch was a fresh bread roll with a banana in it.

We passed the Chepstow race course. There were cars everywhere, including a flea market in one car park. Families were heading down with their children.

A small section of the racecourse marquees

Wye Valley, is an area of outstanding natural beauty, running along the border between England and Wales here. We followed the valley for the rest of our ride today. Tintern Abbey is a site that encourages you to stop and stare.

Tintern Abbey was built by Walter de Clare, Lord of Chepstow, in 1131. It was the first Cistercian foundation in Wales, and only the second in Britain. It fell into ruin after the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1536(good old King Henry VIII!), treasures were removed, lead from the roof was sold, and the building decay began.

Over 70,000 visitors year visit the abbey – and this is also my third visit (2007, 2013)

Old adjacent ruins

Continuing on we followed the Wye River as it meandered along the picturesque Wye Valley.

Eventually we arrived in Monmouth which is situated where the River Monnow joins the River Wye. The town was the site of a small Roman fort and became established after Monmouth Castle was constructed in 1067.

Crossing the first bridge, looking at a local boys school
Signage in dual languages

This is an interesting statue of Charles Rolls, as in Rolls Royce. Aside from that venture, he was an aviation pioneer and a cyclist, having captained Cambridge University cycling club. Despite a great future he was killed at the age of 32 in his plane during a display. He was the first Briton to be killed in an aeronautics, accident, and the 11th internationally.

Agincourt Square with our hotel in the background.
Local military museum adjacent to the castle

Monmouth castle was the birthplace of King Henry V in 1396 is now in ruins. There is a statue of Henry V in town. Sadly not much remains of the former stronghold of Henry IV.

Another old church….

Our accomodation is here tonight. The reception lady has been super helpful and our bikes are stored in their ‘bike shed’ under lock and key.

A solid day on the bike with a doubling of the climbing to gear us up for more tomorrow. We are weary tonight and looking forward to a good sleep.

Thanks for reading 😳❣️

Day 3: Monmouth to Builth Wells

A tough day riding today in trying conditions (head winds and never ending climbs), plus a spill from the bike. However, the ride was great overall, great route, towns and scenery. 94 km and 1600 metres climbing with a loaded bike is challenging but we did it. Knowing you got through the day is always satisfying but we’re tired now,

Leaving Monmouth we crossed the Morrow river passing under this famous gate tower, The bridge was believed to have been built around 1272 to replace a Norman timber bridge.

It is the only remaining fortified river bridge in Great Britain with its gate tower standing on the bridge.

We rode past two interesting gate cottages. It makes you wonder what the main house is like.

This one appears to be occupied
This one is a abandoned. A renovators delight!

The rural scenery was very pleasant and green.

A memorial water fountain, no longer used, dedicated to a local citizen from the 1800’s.

I particularly liked this vista, across the paddocks, to the nicely shaped church. A jigsaw puzzle picture.

Today was all about climbs. Lots of them. The graph does not show all the individual smaller climbs.

The third major climb at around the 20 km point, my chain dropped as I climbed started to climb a steeper section (when I changed rings) and that meant I had no ability to pedal, nor could I get my feet\ shoes out of the cleats quick enough.

So on a busy road, in slow motion, over I went.

The front bag burst open, stuff went everywhere, I was on my side and picked myself up as quickly as I could. My bum and hip took most of the hit, my knee just a couple of small grazes made to look worse due to the blood thinners I take.

I have stiffened tonight though 😳

I rolled back down the hill to start it again, resting at The Red Heart.

Continuing on, the fields are wide and open, still super green.

The climbs keep appearing.

The first major town today was Abergavenny. Situated at the confluence of the River Usk and a tributary stream, the Gavenny. It is surrounded by mountains and hills, including the Sugar Loaf. It is known as a gateway to the Brecon Beacons National Park.

The view as we descended into Abergavenny
Pretty flowers

We stopped outside a bakery for refreshments. As we consumed our goods, we met Vernon and Jill from Derbyshire. They have cycled toured in the last and were curious about our trip.

They shared photos of their grandson Leon Atkinson who currently has four National (UK) age championships to his name in four events. A name to watch out for in the future.

Leaving town, waiting for Tony while he takes this photo.

Blackberries are plentiful and Tony sampled some today, and said they were really nice.

More climbs, more views.

I’m not sure if these are llamas or alpacas, I always get confused. The black one intrigued as as when we talked to him, he stopped chewing. When we stopped he would chew. Maybe he is a she…🤣

All the main towns today were at the bottom of descents, meaning there were tough climbs out of each town.

This view is just above Crickhowell, my favourite town today.

Crickhowell lies on the River Usk, on the edge of the Black Mountains. it is the birth place of Roddy Llewllyn, better known as Sir Roderic Llewellyn, 5th Baronet – aka Princess Margaret’s playboy back in the 70’s.

We stopped for lunch here, a fresh baguette with a fresh banana.

Squinting…

The old castle was initially a motte and bailey castle built from around 1121. It was damaged badly in the 1400’s by the last born Prince of Wales, Owain Glyndwyr.

The town was vibrant, and many buildings had colourful flower displays.

Leaving town we crossed the river, and followed a canal.

River Usk
The muddy canal

There were nice forests and more churches.

llanfrynach St Brynach churchyard

Our route took us along the Brecon canal, apparently voted Britains prettiest canal.

It was lovely riding the two miles along here. It was a flat gravel path. It was busy with people walking their dogs.

Through the gate and past the lock
We were heading towards the Brecon basin
A canal boat

In the town of Brecon the canal becomes a basin. You can hire a boat here for one hour, 40 pounds.

We did not stop in Brecon. We weaved our way around the town to head back into the hills.

A statue of Wellington

More cute churches and fields.

We were quite tired by now, but climbing was not done with us yet. As we started to climb, there was a warning sign stating the climb was 16%. It was also 2 km in length.

Per our computer data we could see that the super steep section was for maybe 500 metres or so. I walked! I pushed the bike up and it got to 20.4%

As I rounded a bend, Tony was also walking. It is actually hard pushing your bike with gear up such a steep hill. The knee did complain.

At the top, this was the warning sign for cars descending.

Adjacent was a military firing range. The red flags were flying, the sheep oblivious. These sheep are fenced, but there were many others wandering around the roadside.

The vegetation had changed considerably. It was very open and bare. Exposed to the headwinds, making the challenge harder.

After the steeper section, we were able to continue climbing on our bikes. Here I am near the top.

As we rested, we met a local mtb rider John (known to his friends as ‘the pope’). We were at a junction with what seemed to be a farm road and the main road. John had come off the farm road.

Talking to him he imparted his local knowledge and suggested we get off the main road, and head to Builth Wells by this alternative route. It is always great to chat to other cyclists.

He assured us it was all downhill.

Well it was mainly downhill bar the uphill bits 🤣🤣 However, what goes up, must go down, and Builth Wells like every other town today, is at the bottom of a big hill.

These are some views along the alternative route.

We arrived at our accomodation in town, and after showering and laundering headed off to search for dinner and check out the town.

Builth Wells at the confluence of the rivers Wye and Irfon – in the upper part of the Wye Valley.

Random bull
Sad demise for an otherwise nice church. Junk everywhere including bikes.

Tomorrow a storm weather warning has been issued, Storm Antoni, with winds of up to 55 mph, plus lots of rain. We will reassess tomorrow but a train is an option. We are scheduled to climb over 1500 m again and that would be dangerous on a bike in a storm.

Anyway, let’s see what tomorrow brings.

Yatta yo – I did it!

I hope to inspire you to put into your mind the thoughts and the strength to live your best most authentic existence. This is your moment to live. To make the best of this time on the earth.

A beautiful quote from an inspirational lady, Dr Edith Egers , an Auschwitz survivor and author.

I hope my story encourages, motivates and provides hope to anyone who has a similar personal challenges like I’ve faced.

This trip was a challenge for me. Physically and mentally.

I’ve ridden over 30,000 cycle touring overseas since 2013. So a 1,200 km plus ride in two weeks may seem a piece of cake to some. To others, crazy 🤣

Part of this trip was to test my tenacity and resilience following open heart surgery nine months ago.

I’ve had my my chest sawn open and my heart stopped beating for a few hours. I was kept alive by a bypass machine. I was on life support for 20 hours.

Rehabilitation was tough. I had setbacks with a pleural effusion at three months.

Sharron v2.0 is ok. She did it. She’s back!

Yes I’m pumped. I’m proud of me as I know just what I’ve been through and what I have done to get my fitness back.

We have had just the most brilliant time here in Japan circumnavigating Shikoku.

The scenery has been astounding. The people we met have been the nicest, genuine, kindest, respectful, helpful people. The food has been ❣️

We averaged 87 km per day, and climbed an average of 770m each day. That’s pretty cool and I’m happy with that.

So this means one thing – stepping up for another trip starting on my one year heart anniversary, late July, a big loop four countries….but that blog is for another day.

Today we had breakfast at the home of our Air BnB hosts, Yukio Shintani and Tamiko.

All of our communication was via Google translator, and that worked fine. They were interested in our trip, route and pictures.

We had a short ride of about 6.5 km to the Tokushima ferry terminal, arriving in plenty of time. We may have scored a bonus, as I went to pay for the two bikes, and was given tickets without additional money being requested.

We had about 90 plus minutes to wait, so we cleaned our bikes using moist cloths that we’ve been given with all our sushi and sashimi purchases over the fortnight. Australia immigration require spotless bikes.

The bikes were not that grotty, as we had cleaned them twice already. Wandering around the wharf the views are typically industrial as you would expect.

A couple of guys were fishing just over the ferry terminal barrier wall. I did not see them reel in anything. The river is the Yoshino that we followed for a few days around Oboke.

The ferry arrives. It is quite interesting to watch as it comes so very close to the platform, and the outward bow thrusters work very hard to push the ferry laterally to the side wharf.

The front opens, the ramp comes down, and all the vehicles and trucks are off very quickly.

Workers quickly secure our bikes.

We sat outside on the rear deck vs being inside around everyone. It was very noisy but refreshing.

The main Japanese island of Honshu appears.

Just like that, we dock, ride 3km to our hotel and the cycling trip is Finito!

The last bit we do not enjoy. Packing the bikes up. Well I should not complain as Tony does that, and I do my best to help.

My job was to get the bags out of storage which was a pain as it was 1.30 pm and check in was 2 pm, and they’d put our bags in our room.

The receptionist wanted me to wait until 2 pm….lucky I was wearing a mask so she could not see my mouth! I negotiated their release, but needed to pay in full for the room first….of course my money was with the bikes, so down I go 11 stories.

I pay the bill, get the bags from the 4th floor over two trips returning with gear from the bike over multiple trips.

Eventually the bikes are in our room and bonus we have a deck. Tony finishes packing the bags on the deck. This is Tony’s bike.

At the local supermarket we pick up some food but no melons or mangoes. Food here is relatively cheap, but these are super expensive. The mangoes are about $23 each, and the cantaloupe $35.

I do like the presentation though. Saves people squeezing the mangoes to see if they are ripe! The golden stems look lovely too. Worth the extra $ 😳

The plan is to be at the railway station (next door) before 5 am to catch the 5.05 am train. We need to change lines to Kensai (Osaka airport) along the way.

We leave at 10 am heading to Hong Kong, where we have too much time but should be able to access the Qantas Club lounge. Sydney, Melbourne, Devonport and finally Turners Beach Saturday afternoon.

A huge thanks to all who have read and followed the Japan blog series.

I can highly recommend Shikoku as a place to visit and tour. If you do not fancy organising a trip and being self supporting, I recommend that you contact Sam at Hidden Japan Tours. Link below.

https://hiddenjapantravel.com

Massive thanks to my domestique, primary photographer and husband, Tony. He goes along with all my hair brained ideas, and he’s admitted this one was pretty cool! xx

This trip is dedicated my cardiac team – in particular Dr Nikhil Pal and Dr Ash Hardikar. Thankyou for your care, diagnostic and surgical skills that have given me a fighting chance of living longer. ❣️

Stay hungry, stay foolish.

Heat map of our ride….just a little section missing around Imabari when Tony’s gps had a hissy.

Day 14: Oboke to Tokushima

As I looked out our bedroom window, there were low lying clouds in the valleys above Oboke Gorge. It looked like it was going to be an absolute ripper of a day weather wise.

Today is our last full day riding, with only two short rides tomorrow as we head back to where it all began a fortnight ago.

We followed the Yoshina River north. It was a lovely ride out for 10 km, before we crossed the river and followed a higher, slightly undulating route through a series of small villages.

This is a two way road, very narrow yet it works. Drivers here are very patient with each other, and in general, drive significantly smaller vehicles.

We followed the Yoshino River for all of our 95 km today.

it was getting hot. At 10.30 am it was already 31c. When we stopped maybe 90 minutes later it was hotter again. Not sure what it topped out at but we sure were melting.

We stopped regularly buying cold liquid. It was at one of these stops that a couple rolled in with their fully loaded touring bikes, and we acknowledged each other, then realised we were all Aussies!

They are from Yackandandah in Victoria and spending 5 weeks in Japan. Lovely to meet them.

A little further along the road I met this couple and took a photo with them. They were playing golf.

Next door, there were a bunch of older folk resting.

The masked couple on the swings were not at all chatty!

After the scarecrows yesterday we were surprised to see more. I did grope the leg of the guy I was sitting next to in my photo, and he did seem solidly constructed!

We were now riding along the top of a levy, with a gusty headwind providing some relief from the heat.

Crossing another bridge, this is the view as we looked towards Tokushima down the valley. The gap between the hills is ocean. the Yoshino River empties into the ocean there.

We deviated into this riverside park as it had toilets. A nice area with lots of walks and sports ground.

More cold liquid as we were going through it very quickly. My legs were wet with sweat.

We spent many km today in heavier traffic, including the last 25 km. No room for lapses of concentration. We were pleased to arrive at our accomodation and shower!

After far too much food at breakfast and dinner the last two days we walked about 400m to Halows and grabbed some sushi and fruit for dinner.

The owner of the air BnB has offered to make us breakfast tomorrow and we have accepted.

The map below shows,where we are now in relation to Wakayama ( ferry to there as we have our bike bags stored there, plus spending tomorrow afternoon and evening there) and Osaka….our departure point back to Australia.

There will be one more blog and another piece of ‘news’ ….until then, thanks for reading and smile on 😊❣️

Day 13: Iya Valley

The Queen stage of our cycle trip, and it was a corker of a day weather wise, with a forecast of around 30c.

We headed off soon after 8 am to try and get the first climb of 5 km done in cooler air.

The Yoshino River, Oboke Gorge looked beautiful.

Below is our graph showing climbs. Mirror image as we did an out and back route. The first climb took us from 180m asl (above sea level to around 580 m asl.

Nearing the top provided nice views of the green hills and valleys.

The last one km of the climb was kamikaze tunnel. We kept climbing inside that tunnel at around 3% for 985m in length, no verge, no area to ride aside from the one lane.

The noise inside long tunnels is scary at times. Motorbikes actually make the loudest noise, followed by trucks. When they come up behind you, you just hope they’ve noted you.

On the ground there were raised reflectors, which were a bit dodgy for bikes as they were quite high and not angled well. There is occasional litter to avoid such as walking boots and hammers!

It is ALWAYS a relief to leave the kamikaze tunnels. Today we did over 7 km in tunnels. This is not included in total km data as the bike computers rely on satellites, and in a tunnel, they cannot communicate.

Safely out the other side, we started out gradual incline along the valleys of the Iya Valley. Lovely vistas.

Water flowed out here, and there were two ladles. We presumed this was safe drinking water pumped up from the Iya River.

Structured waterfalls off the roadside were not infrequent.

Iya-no-Kazirabashi (Vine Bridge), is one of Japan’s Three Strange Bridges. The Kazirabashi suspension bridge is made of local vines and is a nationally designated important Cultural Property.

Legends say that the ancient Heike residents made such bridges in order to easily cut them away if pursued by invading warriors.

Rebuilt every three years and stretching 45 m long, 2 m wide and swaying 14 m above the river below, tourists love to walk across. There was a bus load about the walk across from the left when this photo was taken. It costs 550 yen to walk across.

Tablet nearby

Close by is the 50m high Biwa waterfall.

Back on route, we commenced an 11 km climb that would take us up over 900 m asl. The gradient was ok, but the heat was starting to melt us, and we had eaten our snacks. We were rationing our water, and no shops, no vending machines,

We bonked with maybe 3 km to go and battled up the final section. The nice views helped.

Our target was Kakashi-no-Sato, otherwise know as the Scarecrow village. In the Iya valleys final village of Nagato dwells one of Japan’s curious oddities.

There are 23 residents living in the village, but over 300 life sized ‘dolls’ that work the fields, gather along the road, attend school, host weddings and gatherings.

It is a weird feeling as you feel you are being watched by ‘the eyes’.

After wandering around, we sat in the shade, and Tony changed my very stuffed brake pads. A tourist bus arrived and whilst some wandered around looking at the scarecrows, another bunch stood and watched Tony 🤣

We did enjoy our descent! I was glad I had new brake pads too!

Finally we found a very small local shop 2 km from the bottom. I perused and grabbed what I could and we sat in the shade eating and drinking and getting some energy back.

This dog was on a lead, and seemed to live at the shop. I commented on how timid the dog was. It went ape and did not stop barking until we left…call me anything, but don’t call me timid! 🤣

We had one tough climb left. 2.4 km at 9.7%…. Is tough! That’s steep. We knew it would be nasty as we descended from kamikaze tunnel. I was thankful we’d gotten some food into us as that helped get us up the blighter.

Then it was back through kamikaze tunnel, but far more enjoyable as it descended 3% for the one km.

Out the other side, and the views towards the Oboke area.

I decreased the route on the map so,you could see Tokushima, our destination tomorrow, and last full day ride this trip.

Japan continues to impress us with our experiences on Shikoku. People are so friendly and helpful. Even the guys with their red and white flags at roadworks smile, wave, bow and one today even clapped!

Climbing over 2000 metres today is huge for me, plus we rode 91 km. It is many years since I have climbed that amount, and to do that only 9 months post open heart surgery astounds me.

Thankyou for reading and the comments here and on FB fe the blog continue to motivate us.

Smile on 😊❣️

Day 12: Saijo to Oboke

We had a lovely meal and time with our new Japanese friend Toshi. he picked us up and proudly showed us his house he rents to visitors, his clubhouse, his restaurant, all part of his kingdom, that also includes an international school.

I loved this walkway between stands of massive bamboo. I have my two hands around one, and still a gap.

Toshi and Tony stand in part of the guest accomodation. There is a Japanese fire in front of them you can use.

Toshi the retired professorial pharmacology scientist is also a farmer who has around 4000 2m as a farm, using his produce in his restaurant. The man can cook up a feast and this was first course!

We were truly humbled to have met Toshi and blown away by his generosity and kindness, not to mention his wit and keen intellect.

All good things end, and we woke up this am ready to roll. It was a mixed day. The majority of the first 50 km was an extended conurbation with connected cities, busy arterial roads, mix of footpath quality, little road verge and at times ok verges

You needed to concentrate to keep yourself safe as it’s the last place to make a mistake inches from a heavy truck. Uneven surfaces, potholes, rubbish, sudden curb drops and barriers all pose risks.

We stopped numerous times, initially Tony wanting a very small headed screwdriver to remove the back from his heart monitor. Finally we found a Bunnings like hardware store.

I waited…..the mountains around were claggy.

Food and many other items seem cheap in Japan. Here is a very practical example. If you want one of these ‘thingies’ it will set you back $4 aud.

There were Australian native plants for sale. These large potted wattles are $10. You would pay $40 plus at home for a plant this size.

By now Tony emerged from the depths of the store, screwdriver having been obtained. He changed his battery and off we went.

We had a few gradual climbs on the busier roads, and the weather was getting warm and muggy.

We were relieved to reach Miyoshi city, indicating we needed to turn right towards Oboke. We were following the Yoshina River.

The Yoshina River is the largest river in Shikoku stretching for 194 km. It’s basin takes up almost 20 percent of the island of Shikoku.

The river is also regarded as the wildest river in Japan attracting rafters globally including hosting the World Championships in 2017 in both Oboke and Koboke,Gorges.

This is a bridge to nowhere. It just crossed the river, but that was it!

This bridge had a purpose. It’s a rail bridge. The rail line runs through the valley, with a station not far from Oboke.

After checking in, storing the bikes, showering and laundering, we went exploring. Up the road we sound a white water rafting centre alongside this monument.

We found a shrine.

We found a graveyard of motorbikes, some stacked side by side, others stacked laterally.

A cute sign, but not sure what the 74.2 means.

Tony was keen to get down to the water. We did find a series of very steep steps that appear to not be used very often. my knee did creak.

I’m lagging behind in the descent.

Returning back up the steps, we discovered this adventure playground for adrenaline junkies. There are some seriously freaky challenges here, and I said BUCKET! (Zwift friends will understand🙈🤣).

A pretty garden, not sure if it was a commercial business or home.

The bear and I.

Back to the accomodation. can you pick our room?

Dinner was 7 pm. A set 13 course menu to be eaten in order. There were a lot of bowls and dishes in front of us as we figured out what to tackle next. We had two hot pots cooking, and the rings indicate items to be brought from the kitchen.

We waddled to our room. We might need all that tucker as tomorrow is the Queens stage of this tour. For non cycling readers, this means the day with the most climbing, highest altitude.

That will be a true test for me, but we have all day and the weather looks good. There should, be some good photos tomorrow.

Tony is ready for bed….he is modelling the provided gowns. Many people wore these to dinner tonight.

Thanks for reading. Another day, another adventure, another 80 km done and dusted. Smile on 😊❣️