We have not checked the weather forecast for days as it’s been the same, hot, hot, hot.
When we awoke today it was very cloudy hiding the sun, and the trees were blowing strongly. Strong winds of up to 37 kmh SW were forecast.
Whatever we thought! She’ll be right!
Today was to be another hilly ride, sporting climbs plus one super tough one in the wind.
Keep on spinning
Today’s route was exploring the eastern aspect of the islands starting and finishing at the green dot in Lido. Basically a figure of 8, heading towards Port Azzuro, Rio nell Elba, Rio Marina, Cavo, back to Rio nell Elba, Magazzini, and back to Lido.
A total of 53 km, 939 m climbing. Back home by lunchtime, despite stopping for lunch and morning tea.
Port Azzurro is only 3.5 km from Lido so we reached that town first.
Resort pool along the way Looking up at CapoliveriPort AzzurroPort Azzurro
Climbing and descending was the order of the day. Given the lack of sun, the brilliant blue azure seas were not revealed.
Hazy towards the sea gap. Mainland Italy in the background Hill villages Rio nell Elba where we would pass through twice, but at differing height levels.Quite dry landscapes in rocky soils Memorial to Fausto Coppi, the dominant international cyclist post WW2, rated second best Italian sportsman of the 20th century. Amongst many highlight wins, he won the Giro d’Italia five times and the Tour de France twice. He died in 1960 aged 40 from malaria.
We stopped for a coffee break in the port town of Rio Marina, a port originally to transport iron from the island but today, a hub for ferries from mainland Italy.
Toremar, the company we used to cross to ElbaClock on the edge of the port RioMarina Starting the climb out of Rio MarinaStill climbing, looking back at Rio MarinaLooking east towards the Italian mainlandClear road on a Sunday morning, bonus.Heading towards Cavo
Leaving Cavo we had the longest climb of the morning at around 7 km. It was a nice climb, with the wind interfering only minimally climbing, usually on an exposed right hand bend.
Some photos from the climb. Not as many as Tony went into a competitive mode, catching three riders ahead and staying ahead, ha ha. I too managed to pass them, not that it was a race!
What goes up, must come down, and we descended back into the cross point of our figure eight at Rio nell Elba, heading back up for a nastier climb.
This climb was shorter at around 4 km, but more evil with 13-14% sections, very narrow road, with cars going both ways at times. You could guarantee a car at a right hand bend!
Right hand bends are the hardest as they are steep into the turn, and no option of heading left in case a car is descending on the narrow road. In addition the fierce winds hit us at those bends (side on often) pushing you towards the right hand edge.
The evil ascentGetting higher And higher…The Toremar ferry we saw at Rio Marina heading back to Piombino on the Italian mainland.Rio nell Elba, again!Great views up here An old castle, Fortezza del Volterraio, Etruscan origin, expanded by the Pisans in 1200’s, strengthened over the centuries as a defence base. One of its claims to fame, is that it is one of the only places on Elba not to have been raided by Turkish pirates. Having ridden on the nearby road, seriously think there may have been easier pickings for the Turks!
The descent was hairy! The wind was extraordinarily awful, it started to spit with rain, the road very narrow and steeper than what we had just climbed.
A very slow and controlled descent by me particularly given the number of bends and barely one car wide. I think I could smell my brakes!
Looking towards the capital Portoferraio, numerous ferries on the move.
Once we’d completed the shaky descent we decided to go to the nearest local village to sit out the spitty rain. We headed to Bagnaia,where not much was happening, I guess due to the crappy weather.
Nice chateau Looking over the bay
Bagnaio is a pebble beach offering a range of aquatic activities. Today, most were sitting in the local cafe. We stopped and had a light lunch, watching a sand storm gust through that left our bikes filthy!
Bagnaia bayPebble beachColourful roundabout
Feeling replenished, we left the village and immediately went into a short climb that had a 13% pinch. The cold legs did protest much!!
Portoferraio Portoferraio
The afternoon we decided to chill. Tony got to work cleaning our bikes.
Washing is done and is out drying in the wind. It is still warm despite the wind and has been in the mid 20’s.
Our unit. The view from our deck, including eucalypts over the lower unit.
So tomorrow we head off early. We will be on the road by 6 am to ensure we are at the ferry with time to spare, or enough time to cover a contingency such as a puncture.
Hard to believe that this time next week we will be well on the way home.
Chianti is one of my favourite areas of Italy and given today was also my birthday when mapping I decided on taking a longer and hillier route to Siena, so that we could lunch at Radda in Chianti.
This rooster is at Castellina in Chianti
A famous wine growing region with lovely vistas of vineyards and olive groves.
We had ridden through Chianti in 2016, after completing our London to Venice bike ride.
Another long and hilly day with 111 km and over 1500 metres climbing. The longest single climb today was 13 km in hot and sunny conditions.
Leaving Anghiari was no simple feat. We pushed our bikes up steep cobbled laneways to a position where we could actually ride safely.
The view from our bedroom across the piazza of the old theatre
I break today down to two chunks. Getting to Montevarchi and then Montevarchi to Siena.
The second section is pure Chianti and a beautiful (and very hilly) region.
The town in the middle is a hole. No reason to go there. Worst city in Italy I ever been to …. twice! Once was not enough apparently.
I looked for redeeming features but found none. My judgement remains.
In the meantime there was nice scenery and work to be done.
Then we hit Montivarchi, a hell hole for traffic, road works and general ugliness. We spent one night here in 2016 on our very first self supported ride, three days in Tuscany. I was not self sufficient then, and paid for the route notes and accomodation through a bike tour company.
The night before returning to Florence was spent here and we just did not like the dirty, grotty town. It was so anticlimatic to Chianti. Given the beautiful villages nearby we could not understand ‘why Montevarchi?’
The biggest climb of the day started just out of town. 13 km and gaining over 500 metres. It was sweltering in the 30’s and we were sweating profusely, drinking regularly. Shade was rare but welcomed,
Early in the Chianti section.I have a photo from 2016 with me sitting here, the rooster has faded in the 8 years! Maybe me too ha ha.
The black rooster needs an explanation. It is an important Chianti symbol for wine producers. When placed on the neck of a bottle, or label, it distinguishes Chianti wine from those outside of the region.
The symbol dates from the Middle Ages with a tale of war between Florence and Siena over control of the Chianti region. To settle the score they were each to send a knight, at dawn, awakened by a rooster. The point at which they met would form the new border.
The Florence rooster was white, well fed and woke after dawn. The Siena rooster was black, kept starving in a cage. It woke early and was ravenous. Therefore the black rooster knight had a time advantage and gained greater land.
Rooster in lavender fieldGood sized rooster!Beautiful
We stopped in Radda in Chianti to buy a trip momento to compliment our purchase from 2016. The artist makes many different items including a range of cycling in Chianti items such as below.
We have chosen two blocks on the left…has two trees, photo only shows one. We are having them posted vs carrying them. They will sit either side of the oak barrel (three trees, two bikes) we currently have.
We stopped by at a local restaurant to eat. Tony had a main course pasta dish as he was starving, me bruschetta.
They were dreadfully slow though and we were later back on the bike than we would have ideally liked get into Siena.
We rode through Castellina in Chianti, another delightful town but only have this one picture.
I asked a motor cyclist to move so we could take this photo. That’s his helmet. Our bikes to the rear.
We were keen to get into Siena. I came through in my bike in 2018 on a day trip out of Pienza, but Tony had not been.
We got into the old town alive, but it was hair raising and very deconstipating arriving during peak hour.
The accomodation was hard to find despite my best mapping efforts. We must have missed an alleyway that would take us to a lower level, as we were right on top of the route…literally.
Siena is steep, cobbled, narrow alleys and by this stage, we were pushing the bikes trying to figure out how we went wrong, but more importantly how to get to the accomodation. We were within 100 frustrating metres! Look down Sharron, look down….ah under the laneway was another laneway.
Eventually we got there!
Directly over the road, much higher up the Basilica di San Domenico looms. It is higher up than it appears, and there is an escalator to get up there!
Siena was decimated during the Black Death in 1348 with Florence then dominating Tuscany thereafter. This was a piece of good fortune as it meant that Siena did not have the funds to modernise its Middle Ages buildings, but Florence did.
The Duomo is a massive Gothic cathedral boasting art from the likes of Michelangelo, Bernino and Donatello.. It was largely built between 1215 and 1263.
After showering, as it was so close, via the flat map at least, we headed off to the Duomo.
You could climb hundreds of steps or take six escalators….we took the lazier option! Not like our legs had not had a good workout already!!
Unfortunately the Duomo was closed, but my memory was that is it magnificent inside. These days you need a ticket and the evidence in the surrounding piazza with old tickets in the ground presumes it had been a busy day.
The detail in the stone carvings, tiled exterior is just beautiful. The Duomo stands testimony to the amazing people that did this work 800 years ago.
Those doors are incredibly high. I have often wondered why the doors need to be so high. What a pain if the door needs adjusting as it wont close properly? How do you oil the hinges? Is it easy to shut the doors as they must weigh a tonne or two!
The alleyways are well signposted with which direction to walk to key points of interest. We walked to the Campo within a few minutes.
Piazza del Campo is a famous public square in the shape of a half moon. It hosts the biannual Palio horse race which goes back to the Middle Ages. It is a barerback horse race around the Campo but tonight we were fortunate to get a dinner table that viewed the Campo.
Quite amazing to think they hold an annual horse race here. It is on a slope, those poor horses.
The setup for the horse race. The people in the middle would see nothing as that centre area slopes downwards. I guess they just want to ‘be there’ and feel the vibe.The central area where all the spectators stand, you can see the slope. I’d hate to be stuck out there. Torre del Mangia, overlooking the Campo
Torre del Mangia was built in 1338-1348 and at the time of construction, was one of the tallest towers in medieval Italy. Today it is Italy’s third tallest tower.
It was built to be exactly the same height as Siena Cathedrals, a sign that the church and the state had equal power.
There is a nice water fountain in the centre, closed off to the public though.
Closed to the public, but the pigeons enjoy their unfettered access. This pigeon was drinking out of the animals mouth.
We wandered around d the darker alleyways.
Found this beautiful offshoot.
Arrived at the Baptistry of San Giovanni, built between 1310 and 1320, alongside the monumental staircase rising to another piazza. Closed, but photos showed its internal magnificence.
Baptistry
The magnificent staircase…up we went, through that arch arriving back at the Duomo.
I wandered around checking out the sculpture detail and doors more closely, before taking the soft option of six escalators back down to our lower accomodation level.
The map shows our progress across Italy. One more day and we will be at the Mediterranean Sea! What a trip this is! A big physical challenge but for us enjoyable and satisfying knowing we have done his under our own steam.
We woke to beautiful views out our bedroom window. Blue skies!
First to breakfast (again….people seem to sleep in), we packed and rolled down the hill out out of this interesting little country.
We quickly realised that our descent was the ascent route for the upcoming Tour de France. The freshly laid new road surface being the biggest clue, along with supporting signage. kg was a much nicer road than our previous day ascent.
We remained on the new surface for 30 km and it was so smooth. In places though, due to the heat of the sun, it had partly liquified, sticking to our tyres, adding more rolling resistance on the hills.
Hills and heat would be part of my days summary. It got hot with little shade reprieve.
The climbing graph. You can see the initial descent but we then went into two five km length climbs. The longest climb of the day started around 25 km, intensifying, reaching to top at 66 km. That’s a lot of climbing on a loaded bike in the heat.
Our first climb were through the local hills including Chiesanuova. The Tour will pass through as you can tell by the road, and the sign with the older men.
I was going to stick my head through the hole for a photo, but the tour route was fascinating these men. The one closer to me asked where we were headed today and when I told him he indicated amazement!
It was a nice area, quiet of traffic, lovely views.
Looking back to San Marino. This view is not as dramatic as the reverse side cliff view.Look at that road! Many cyclists were out and about today.We followed this river for some distance
The second 5 km climb took is to San Leo perched high up that rock. It is an old fortress town 600 metres above sea level.
It is a nice little village, very quiet, minimal tourists at this time of day. We stopped at a small cafe for refreshments including filling up our bidons. Other cyclists cruised through, many grabbing a quick espresso before cycling off.
Nice views from the villageOne of the many old churches in the village The fortI liked this old church. I ventured inside. It was very dark but nice and cool.As we rolled down the cobbles leaving, two cyclists were heading in.
We rolled down the hill, this angle showing a more dramatic cliff, with chunks having broken away.
After 30 km of nice road seal, we were on strada bianchi, white gravel. This was a bit cooler.
But alas as has happened many times this trip, we hit a road block. Not one we could sneak through either as there was a gaping hole caused by flood damage. So back we went to find an alternative.
Onto the long climb of the day. It went on and on with sections up to 11 percent. The heat was quite draining but we drank water regularly and were otherwise fairly comfortable. Our tops were soaked in sweat.
The road was a major route through these new Tuscan hills but overall fairly quiet. There was the one crazy bus driver….
Much of the hills remain undeveloped and fully bushed out. Others are cleared and farmland.
Descending on the other side of where we had climbed. Lago di Montigoglio is an artificial lake on the river Tiber, one of Italy’s longest rivers, and the one that flows through Rome.
We enjoyed the cooling descent and headed off towards our overnight Anghiari, a place made famous in latter years by Leonardo da Vinci, in a lost mural, depicting a mythical battle between the republics of Florence and Milan.
Boasting an incredible old history with buildings dating back to at least the 12th century.
It is quite imposing as you ride towards it. This,road seemed to go on and on and right up the middle of the town. Our accomodation was just to the right of the road you can see.
Our view from the stairwell looking towards the old town over the roof tops.
We crossed over that long straight road, where the earlier photo was taking lower down.
We wandered towards the old village with this guy pointing towards tomorrows route direction.
The old village is steep, with lots of narrow alley ways, cute arches and flowers, interpretation panels explaining the history of many of the old structures.
View back over the hills we had descended from
We searched for food but as is common 7 pm was the opening time here too. We went to a restaurant boasting typical Tuscan fare…and he offered us a table at 6.45 pm so that sealed the deal!
It was outside at the top of the hill, adjacent to the long road, and we just kept staring and thinking….we made it!
I have made today’s map smaller to show where we are relatively within Italy. Not that far from Rome or Florence, but our direction is to traverse the width of Italy via Siena and Piombino.
It does show that we traversed green hilly areas having climbed over 1600 metres, 99 km. The next two days are similar.
June 1st, first day of summer in Italy and the forecast only showed sun, sun, sun.
Get out the sun protection cream and lip balm!
After an ‘interesting’ breakfast discussion with accomodation owner Sven (he speaks 6 languages, has a low opinion of anyone not speaking at least 3 😳), plus our faux pas mentioning we hate all the smoking in Venice which put us off going there again (to then note the cigarette lighter in his hand), and Tony saying how in Australia you cannot smoke at outdoor cafes. Sven became almost apoplectic (now noting cigarette in his other hand) and we went into our best ‘dig yourself out of a hole mode’ as he went into a passionate rant about the diminishing liberties of smokers…ho hum…
Thank goodness another guest arrived for breakfast and by the time we went back to our room, passing Sven I could smell the cigarette stench, but he was calmer 🤣🤷♀️.
We left via the beach side of Lido, where they were just gearing up for the day.
Chairs or a shed?
Two ferries were required today. One from Lido to Pellestrina island, then a second to mainland Chioggia, In between we would ride the remaining length of the Venice Lagoon.
Our route across the lagoon today.
Both islands are very narrow with Venice lagoon one side, Adriatic Sea the other.
In many spots a high sea wall exists to protect the islands, the views across the Venice lagoon were lovely. The myriad of small islands, aquatic activities and fishing structures.
On Pellestrina life is very casual. We rode through a spot with two vans selling their wares, the first fruit and vegetables, the second cheeses. Locals all get around in bikes vs cars.
The ferries were not an issue, more of a waiting game. More nice views,
Fishing structure Fishing structure Ugliness personified. That meant Chioggia would be overrun with tourists. I know that these are meant to be good for tourism but this certainly dwarfs everything in the Venice lagoon. I accept that many like to travel this way too, just not us.
Docking in Chioggia, another canal city. As we could tell from the water, busy as and we made a beeline to safely extract ourselves from the throngs and the markets we seem to route through!
We found a quiet cafe to stop at, as I needed a toilet, so buying a coffee gives us access!
Next to the cafeAs we headed out …
The next chunk of riding was on a busy arterial road, which was to feature a bit today. When I saw the sign Romea I’d groan.
But we did turn off to see some of the extensive Po Delta, one of the most important wetland areas of Europe, largest in Italy, boasting double UNESCO recognition.
64,000 hectares in total, with over 400 animal species and 1,0000 plant species. 300 different bird species, 50 species of fish, 10 amphibians…the extensive list goes on.
We did see an impressive bright green lizard, flamingoes, deer, a large dead mammal looking animal ( no idea what it was), and a plethora of birds.
The riding is very chilled through here. More people riding bikes than cars. There were higher vantage point lookout towers built.
The day was hot, our bike computers had it well over 30 degrees, it was also very windy and we were in a very flat and open area with little to protect us from the super strong headwinds.
The headwinds were cooling, but they do make pedalling forward harder.
We were back in that busy Romea road, and we did detour through a nice little village of Mesola as we needed something more to eat and cold drinks,
We found these two buildings in our way to locating a small supermarket boasting a gazebo with table and chairs. We did enjoy chilling there.
After around 110 km we arrived at our overnight destination, Comacchio, founded 2000 years ago. It is considered a major centre within the Po Delta region, and is also known as Little Venice, due to all of its canals,
We found our accomodation, next to this canal and boat.
We started our post shower wander and both really like this town. It has a great vibe, wonderful historic bridges and buildings without the chaos of other touristy towns,
Some of the views.
Tony took a fancy to this motorised bikeThe famous three bridges, will aim for a closer up when we depart.
Did I say no chaos in this town? We found it! Last week it was the Giro d’Italia, this week the Giro del Lago! We walked into the epicentre of an 8.5 km running race that had very good support.
#125, stretching, was my pick for the win. He was jumping up and down, super flexible and looked confident. The field wrapped around into the next street and they all followed a flour line of laps through the town, including bridge steps.
Now this guy is the kind of official needed at all running and triathlon like events. He is at the triple bridge as we tried to walk through. Think again! He also reminded us very much of one of Raymond Reddington’s friends from the Blacklist.
He had a whistle, flag, the loudest voice ever and was a brilliant course marshall, taking it very, very seriously.
Back on the course, #125 is in the lead into the second lap. By the third lap he’d cleared out with a comfortable lead. By the fourth lap the shirt was off. He won.
Heading back to our dinner we did try to go into the cathedral but a church event was happening. A quick glimpse though and it looked very nice with high painted domes but it was just not appropriate to enter further.
This is the nicest grilled octopus dish I’ve ever had. Very much enjoyed this,
Health wise how are we tracking? Tony still has a receding thigh lump but otherwise the accident has pretty well healed. He is getting a cold and hacking a bit.
My bruising is coming out. The lump is making sleep difficult as it hurts most in bed. It does not affect me riding as the lump does not touch the saddle when I sit.
2 days ago…colour deeper and longer now. I’ve started to massage the lump higher on the bone, per my daughters instructions as a physio,
So we’re now heading in a southerly direction for a few days before we head west through Tuscany.
The sights have dramatically changed, the weather is warmer. The forecast is good for tomorrow.
Having spent the last two nights in a self contained apartment, we were ready to leave by 8 am.
Rain was a possibility later in the day but it was a lovely morning when we headed off.
We rolled down to the Napoleon Bridge, crossing the Soca at its narrowest point of its entire length. There has been a bridge here since ancient times. In 1616 the Venetians demolished the old wooden bridge.
The old Napoleon bridge was built in 1750 from stone. Napoleons’s troops marched across it on their way to Predel Pass, hence its name.
During WW1 Austrian soldiers blew it up, then the Italians built a wooden, then later an iron bridge.
Here is how it looked today.
We headed out along the quieter valley, through a series of small villages retracing our steps from two days earlier. The road was fairly quiet with the exception of a few cyclists, and people walking their dogs.
An abandoned hutLow clouds
We turned right to cross the Soca and the views differed, one basking in sunlight, the other half more subdued.
The bridge was narrow and led us to a busier arterial road that we were on for some distance before eventually heading onto very quiet rural roads and pathways.
There were numerous of these overgrown cave like openings in the cliff. At the back of this one was a locked gate. Not sure if they had a purpose during the wars or a local storage area.
Hydro scheme
Rail bridge
Kanal has an iconic single span bridge that has featured in high diving world cup competition.
Steep short climb and this mosaic work, maybe I needed divine intervention?
The pathway followed the river, through some old rail tunnels and under roads.
This tunnel we jumped off and pushed the bikes. It was super narrow and inclined.
Out of the tunnel were these steps. They were hard work pushing the loaded bike up the ramp and walking the steps,
We watched this younger couple push their bikes up, easier than us! This is Lisa and Nico from Frankfurt, Germany, en route to Bologna, but heading to Croatia next. Lovely chatting with them.
The nice pathway continued.
At Solkan that bridge is used by cyclists and walkers, but we crossed further to the east.
The bridge closer up We crossed this bridge, the Solkan, blown up during WWI by Austrian soldiers
Our last meal in Slovenia was here, coffee and pizza.
With the Italian border 80 metres ahead, we bid Slovenia farewell. 😢 It is a beautiful country.
Back into Italy we negotiated the busier border city of Gorizia ( co joined by its Slovenian neighbour Nova Gorica) before finding quieter roads. The rest of the day was spent on a real mix of roads from quieter to arterial.
The landscape had altered and was starting to look more Tuscan despite being quite a few days ride from Tuscany.
When we left Slovenia, it had started to spit with rain and it gradually got heavier as we approached our destination Palmanova.
The outskirts of this interesting town show the old moat and ramparts, You can circumnavigate the town following the pathways here.
We entered via this gate, single lane.
We ended up in the centre looking at the Duomo. We returned later to visit inside the duomo.
The Duomo features nice frescoes, ornaments, a glass coffin with a masked body.
Many of the sacred decorations were confiscated by Napoleon so they only have a few remaining.
It’s quite wet now, coats are back on as we walk our bikes around. Our accomodation did not open until 3.30 pm so we had some time to spare.
Best viewed from the air, what planning (Urban Trend Guesthouse photo, where we are staying)
Palmanova was designed as a fortress city. A city in the shape of a nine pointed star, in perfect symmetry, construction commenced in 1593.
Two defensive circles of walls were built during the Venetian era. In 1797 Napoleon occupied the town and a third defensive circle added during the second French occupation.
During WW1 the town was a selection and supply centre for troops fighting and suffered heavy destruction. During the latter part of WW2 the fortress houses an anti partisan centre of repression.
Since 1960 the city is an Italian monument.
The forecast is pretty drab. Rain, rain and rain. as we head off to bed, the skies have cleared and the duomo bells are ringing.
Out of bed, coffee, packed and off we headed motivated by the stomach for some food. It was cool and brisk, and we had our warm weather gear on as the forecast was not very high.
Descending down through villages..
Monte Zoncolon in the far distance. A tough climb the Giro riders undertook in 2018. I was there the same day and stopped part way up just before the 25% section.
Beautiful valleys and rivers.
The cycle path following an old rail line, including three tunnels in this section.
Looking back up into the clouds from the direction we had started.
The river must flood at times.
All was going well until here, then as I followed Tony an explosion of ‘stuff’ blasted out his rear wheel. He had a puncture, and as he has tubeless tyres that ‘stuff’ was sealant.
It was a reasonable gash and he was able to plug it with two plugs, pump it up, and the sealant did its job. Whilst he repaired, I cleaned.
We only went a few hundred metres and came to this…a river crossing. Unfortunately it was about 30-45 cm deep and decided we were not prepared to get that wet, just yet….so we detoured back, up and around onto the main road for a few km before rejoining the path.
We stopped for coffee in Tolmezzo then headed off on a quieter route out of town. We came to this impenetrable road block. Mountains to the left, river to the right, not a lot of options.
We rode back towards Tolmezzo and cut down to join the highway to cross the river to the other side.
The highway was good as it had a decent verge and we crossed the river and continued on our way back to the quieter route.
The quieter path ran out and for three km we were back in a major arterial road near the freeway. It started to pour. By now we were in lighter weight clothes as we were hot…now we were cold again…
There were many people stopped under the freeway crossover sheltering, including this nice young lad who from the Netherlands. He currently is studying in Austria and had ridden to Sappada the previous day to watch the Giro, and he was riding home.
I’m looking at his phone here as he was curious as to our destination. he did not have a rain jacket with him!
He told us the bike path we were about to join was fairly new and he was super impressed with it and thought it better than anything in the cycle friendly Netherlands.
He was right. We had about 50 km, mainly in the rain, of this wonderful pathway, freshly sealed, involving maybe 20 tunnels, the longest of which was 950 metres in length.
At most tunnels cyclists were sheltering at either end waiting for the rain to ease before heading off again.
The mountains and rivers were great viewing.
Then there are the locals who do things like this to make you smile.
An example of a well done pathway.
At an old railway station, Chiusaforte, is this amazing place. It is a cafe/ restaurant with an area for purchasing maps, cycling spares, souvenirs, maintenance area. Many cyclists had stopped as did we as the rain had eased.
But the rain came back and here we are in one of the tunnels.
As we got closer to Slovenia, the dramatic mountains increased.
Trail art
I really liked these old huts.
Tony took a fancy to this sign,
A picture of contradictions. Beautiful wild mountain vs cables.Closing in on the three country borders.
7 km from our destination we arrived at the Slovenian border.
Slovenia – a country that we rode through back in 2019 from Maribor to Ljubljana to Trieste. This time we are in the Alps region, to the north west of the country, dominated by the Triglav National Park.
The history is rich and deep with evidence back to the Bronze and Iron Age. The Romans arrived in the 1st century AD.
We were just km from the Austrian border and it was tempting to climb another hill, but we are fortunate in that we have ridden in Austria on previous trips and we were keener to get to Kranjska Gora, our overnight destination.
Finally we had some downhill after climbing gradually for over 50 km.
Kranjska Gora is in the Sava Dolinka Valley and the northern gateway to the Soca Valley, where we will be in a few days time.
The town was a key supply base for the Soca Front during World War I but today is Slovenia’s premier winter sports playground with world championship level skiing events to hiking in Triglav.
The Church of the Assumption in the town’s main square dates from around the 14th century. The Romanesque bell tower is original, but most of the rest has been updated over the years.
Another great hotel, with our bikes stored in the very secure ski room. We cleaned up and headed out for dinner, finding a lovely restaurant a few hundred metres away. No room inside so we sat outside, which was not too bad as we had our warm jackets on and it was fairly mild. It stopped raining at the border!
We were entertained by a very noisy, celebrating group who were singing in another language and then started tossing their freshly poured wine over each other. Super weird.
I asked our waiter and he laughed and said ‘oh, they are Polish’!
This dog we watched too. It came with a family group but was tethered so it could have no family interaction. The noises it made were similar to our Khaleesi so we did watch it.
It was wanting to participate, have some pats, but instead the female owner wacked it around the head, pushed its head into the ground whilst we were gasping and saying no! Some people do not deserve dogs!
The dog heading off with its just as crabby male owner.
Back to our room, what a view!
It was a longer touring day today at 118 km, 902m climbing. An interesting climbing graph shows how long we climbed for.
Today was going to be special, we hoped. When planning this trip, I was aware it coincided with the Giro d’Italia, one of the world’s three huge three week cycling events, attracting the best riders.
When the stage routes were announced, I then played around mapping to see where we could intersect, and with a stage finish in Sappada in the Dolomites, that had to be it.
Now the Dolomites are not the easiest area to bike pack ride into due to the size of the climbs over the passes, but with our successful climb over Passo Gardena we were on our way.
We left our accomodation in Brunico knowing it would rain later in the day.
We followed a river path for quite some distance, predominantly gravel, with hot mix here and there.
Utilising what seems to be an old rail line and tunnels
The path became sealed weaving through and around villages. The Dolomites to our right, an Austria to our left, as we were within km of that border.
Beautiful green everywhereMap of the valleyBike maintenance point at a local rail station Looking in at a few Dolomites peaksGreat path here kept us off a busy road. We were climbing most of the day until we reached 1600m, as you can see below.
It was raining at higher altitudes and in the valley ahead. We were able to miss most of it early on seemingly following it but the roads were wet.
We needed to climb more steeply to get to the top of Passo Croce. Some views along the way.
We were in a ski region and this made us laugh Streams winding their way down slopesSigns announcing arrival in villagesFinally the top of the climb at 1636m. I am quite rugged up here despite climbing most of the morning. I have a few layers on under my rain jacket. I added my skull cap and snood for the descent.Tony was a bit braver with bare legs. It was cold up here. He added more layers for the descent.
Part way down we stopped at this waterfall. I thought it had a funny name….
That valley is where we are headed…aagh.
We needed to complete another 10 km climb up to Sappada, and the number of cyclists on that climb was significant. Predominantly road cyclists with small backpacks and minimal gear on, locals more used to the conditions it seemed.
Still raining ahead
We stopped here as there was a convoy of tour team buses also coming up the climb.
About 2.5 km from the top the police had closed the road. Cars were parked to the right, and people were walking into Sappada up the hill. Cyclists could ride on through.
Nice decoration Sappada
We headed to the tour village where there were giveaways, promotions and big screen. The official Giro store was there if you wanted to buy memorabilia. We got given water and bandanas. If I had a dollar for everyone checking our bikes and gear, I would pay the trip off.
We headed off to try and find our spot to watch the finish. We rode part of the final km, but they turned you off with 700 m to go.
Me with about 1100 m to go to the finish line.I liked this dudeSome dress up Cute decorations
In position we had about an hour to wait. We were positioned with about 110 metres to the finish line. Our bikes leaned on the side railing. We could see a big screen diagonally over the road.
Winner, Andrea Vendrame as he passed us on his way to victory.Lucas Plapp, Australia just in front as he finishes 5th. Great to call out “Aussie, Aussie, Aussie”Rosa maglia wearer ‘ Pog’.
It was surreal for me to be back in Sappada. I had been there for the 2018 Giro stage finish. I do not think I would have thought it possible I could cycle tour back into the Dolomites for a second stage finish.
I was teary as I know how hard the journey had been for me personally over the last few years to get fitness back enough to undertake our current tour.
My gastro played up here too, quite annoyingly. Timing!!
Trying to get to get out of Sappada was hard. There was a people crush as we needed to keep moving. Our accomodation was 15 km further along the road as I had not been able to get accomodation in town, even the day the tour route was announced…others must have known!!
We needed to cross the riders route from the finish line to their team buses and I felt sorry for them as they had maybe 90 cm at best, despite the physical police shoving people on their chests and shoulders to get back.
Caleb Ewen, the Aussie, was one who we recognised as he came through the crush.
We had one climb left, Clima Sappada, doing it in the opposite direction to the days stage. The road was freshly resealed, so nice and smooth.
We stopped at the village of Clima Sappada, not having eaten much today.
Nice to get warm food inClima SappadaOverview of another villageTodays route
We are now in the village of Rigolato and will be leaving the Dolomite region.It was a nice ride downhill, to here but cold as it was after 7 pm when we had arrived.
Tomorrow we enter Slovenia for a range of cycling adventures there.
Thanks for reading 😊❣️
Two reminders of the Giro we grabbed to bring home …street decorations. Now this was Tony’s handiwork, not mine, despite my prolific convict ancestry.
This is the view from our hotel room balcony. I’m going to give this hotel my number one vote, particularly cycle friendly.
From the moment we arrived, the bike room, the room, the view, the staff, the food…. Melodia Hotel, Alta Badia. they also lead a few rides a day in the area and have hire bikes available.
A section of the locked bike roomTools, cleaning products, hoses, air compressor, tyre pumps all available.
As we were checking out, the manager came to see where we were riding today and asked to check our route for today and tomorrow.
Today, we had originally planned to ride Sella Ronda (minus most of the gear), pick the gear up and move on to our next night in Brunico.
The weather was not suitable for high altitude riding, wet, cold and sleety, nor was our inclination present, so we decided to follow his route with a side way hillier ride to Brunico that he also said was safer avoiding tunnels he said are ‘lots worse’ than Lake Garda’s.
We started by heading down the valley 10 km, then deviating and climbing 6.5 km, and boy that seemed harder than it ought, indicating our legs had not recovered from the previous days mammoth climbing effort.
Unusual hutLooking back up the valleyLooking forward
We were stopped in a small traffic jam as this helicopter brought in steel for work on the side of the hill.
Nicely, perfectly cut to length timber Entrance to village of San Vigilio, a popular ski resort with groomed slopes, ski lifts.Checking maps after we had done a reccy of the village looking lunch. We went back to the first place we saw.Centre of town, we had lunch at the cafe to the right. The chef/owner came out to chat and ask about our trip and bikes, amazed the had no motor. I tapped my heart and said, ‘my motor’.We left town on the leftLooking up the valley Klaus had suggested as a possible extension, weather permitting. We could see that there was low cloud and likely rain there.
Looking towards Brunico it still looked ok. Nice green pastures, groomed fields.
The rain was catching us That is the valley we had come from, clearly rainingThe peaks were shrouded
It started raining with about 14 km to go. We ended up in Brunico on a gravel cycle path. our nice clean bikes, courtesy of Tony, now had wet gravel all over them. He was unimpressed.
Castle above Brunico
We found our hotel by the river. The male receptionist asked for us to bring our gear inside off the bike before showing where the bikes would go. I explained the gear was wet and dirty, did he had an old towel we could place them on so as not to get his floor dirty.
No, so in came the muddy gear. I try to treat these places like I would my own home but sometimes they do not care as I guess it is not their job to clean it.
It rained for hours and we eventually went to the supermarket using their umbrellas for supplies, then headed out for some dinner.
Our over booties My main luggage bag, opened right up, it folds down.Under my bag and frame
So that’s it for today. A longer day tomorrow, with rain forecast, hopefully still later in the day.
It is a shorter blog today as we did not take many photos and I can sum the ride up as … very wet.
We rode 110 km leaving Lake Garda up a hill I have ridden twice before. It had a special name we refer to it as that I cannot possibly commit to writing here. I’ve not done it with a loaded bike so it was harder again. I had planned a different route out but we tried to trim km due to the weather.
This is looking back towards Lake Garda 1 km into the climb. You can see how bleak the lake looks.
Northern Italy has had numerous floods in the past week and that was evident today with rivers raging and obviously higher than usual when you see playground equipment in the waters.
At Rovereto our original plan had been to visit an old cliffside church but due to the rain and the fact it was closed for renovation we moved in a more direct line to our destination.
On the edge of Rovereto there is a marvellous long distance bike path following the Adige River, and we would be on this path for most of the day. In fact I estimate we spent over 100 km of our 110 km ride on sealed bike paths.
This was certainly safer for us, as wet days in roads means you get road water sprayed every time a vehicle passes.
We were wet enough without that additional hazard.
At this point on the path were the cycling figurines and counter showing over 900,000 people had been through since opened. It also showed 11 people for the day.
Later on around Trento there was a similar sign and counter showing 1.8 million users and over 200 users for the day.
Finding shelter was not easy. The path had many signs stating we were on EuroVelo 7, the Sun route 🤣🤣. There were plenty of resting spots in the open, with bike racks, but not under cover.
Here we stopped under shelter at a recycling centre.
An old bike hanging above indicating metal in that bin, and there was an old bike in the bin too.
We stopped at a supermarket to grab some food, but stopping made us colder and we started shivering. Despite having a $500 highly rated cycling rain jacket water still makes its way through so I threw my best cycling jacket on over my thermals and under my rain jacket to ensure I looked like Michelin man and to generate more upper body warmth.
I also had a wooden skull cap and a rain cap under my helmet.
I had over booties on my feet and wool sox to keep the wet feet warm.
We needed to keep moving and spin the legs more to generate more body heat, which we did.
There was a spot for a few km where the rain eased to a drizzle about 30 km from Bolzano.
We had ridden through many vineyards and stone fruit orchards.
There were high rocky cliffs and hills on either side, many with waterfalls from the rain.
We saw lots of other bike packing cyclists today…maybe 100-120? They were all heading in the opposite direction, which was downhill, we were the ones on the uphills and only had two people pass us all day.
We also saw three of the Giro d’Italia tour buses caught in a bank up of traffic on the autobahn. Hope they got to their cold riders in time. We later learned the Giro route in the area had been changed due to snow at the higher altitudes bringing a freezing point to lower altitudes.
We are staying outside Bolzano up a hill, of course, in a town called San Michele. We turned up from the river path at this point and changed to a different bike path that appears to be an old railway one as we went through three beautiful old tunnels.
Our accomodation is an Air BnB and we are in a room in someone’s house. I did enjoy a nice bath, but she does not have a dryer and given the damp air, our clothes are not drying so we will be putting damp clothes back on.
We borrowed umbrellas and went for a walk and eventually found a nice place to eat in this very German looking town. We forgot to take the camera.
Tony had his ‘usual’ carbonara, and I had a really nice seafood paella.
Tomorrow is one of our big days, with around 2000 metres to climb to get into a more central part of the Dolomites. Rain is forecast but not like today.
There is no breakfast available here either so we will head off early sniffing out food.
We are in the South Tyrol region of Italy which is a German speaking. Signs are predominantly in German now. The border with Austria is not too far away.,
Lake Garda is a stunning lake surrounded by extraordinary geology.
We had a few options for today including riding a lap of the lake (149 km) or riding to Sirmione and getting a ferry back, or riding to Malsecine and getting the furnicular to the top of Monte Baldo and riding back.
There were issues with each option, the latter being my favourite, but we found out you can only take bikes on the 8.00 or 8.30 cable car up. We missed that boat as we found that out too late.
We decided on a chilled semi rest day and exploring the area to Malsecine.
So we rode a total of 38 km (inc 5 km of 12 tunnels) at a super chilled pace, exploring the nooks and crannies.
We followed a variety of paths including loose gravel, pebbles, cobbles and the road.
Here are a selection of the photos from our cruising.
Just out of Riva del GardaHugely popular area for windsurfing, with numerous schools teaching people on land before they entered the water.A groomed pebble beach. At 9 am there were already people sunbaking.We met this dog as it reminded us of Khaleesi. The lady would throw a stick in the water and the dog would swim out, still on the lead. We laughed as we have Khaleesi on a long water lead too, otherwise she refuses to get out of the water.TorboleLooking back to Torbole and up the valley where we rode yesterday afternoonA pleasant lakeside pathWhat a view, with me lounging back. I could have spent ages here.Malcesine castle, with Etruscan burials located on the site, has a local history including the pesky Romans, the Franks and Napoleon Bonaparte who occupied the area in the late 1700’s.Malcesine harbour. Ferry boats arrive on the outer edge, and you can hire boats starting at €80 one hour.
As we headed back we stopped at the paragliding centre to watch a number land. Fascinating to watch.
We did witness one bloke miss the green and we presumed he landed on a pebble beach.
As we rode past his shute was snagged in a tree and he was walking out of the lake. Lucky as the road was only metres away.
We then headed off and walked to Riva del Garda and back.
A history dating back to 1124Lived the vast array of colourful pasta in this shopAn old city gateChurch of the InviolataA nice Australiana surprise, colourful callistemons (bottlebrush). I found five different plants growing around here.
The weather forecast is not great. It started raining around dinner time and has not stopped. We have some bigger days ahead but will take it one day at a time, such are the challenges of self supporting bike touring.