It’s about time!

Dear reader,

It’s been far too long between blog posts and I hope I am not jinxing myself writing now.

After lots of map plotting and planning and we have a big, hairy, audacious goal.

This time in three weeks we will be in the air (hopefully) on our second leg of three flights – on that dreaded Melbourne to Dubai leg. After three flights and some 32 hours we will arrive in Zurich, catch a few trains and arrive in Stein, a village in Switzerland on the Rhine River.

My son Ben and his wife Sharon live there and we have not seen each other for nearly three years. Long overdue catch up.

Ben and Sharon….he hates having his photo taken. August 2019.
Wedding day photo.

After a few nights we start what is currently planned as a 3000 km, 25,000m ascent ride, starting and finishing in Stein.

The big, hairy, audacious plan

We will cross over the Rhine and head into Germany to avoid the busy Basel traffic, then crossing into France, where we will follow the Doubs River for a few days, before reaching the Loire River and following the river until it spills into the Bay of Biscay on the French west coast.

This first section is technically easier as it is not as hilly as later in the trip. But we have solid days. In fact our trip average is 114 km per day and around 900 m ascent.

Chateaux, castles, and history abound. Our route weaves around following the meandering Loire valley. We will reach Beaugency a town we stayed at in 2015 when we rode from Calais to Narbonne.

At the mouth of the Loire, Saint Nazaire we turn south for two days until we reach La Rochelle and ride to Il de Ra and island joined to mainland France by a long bridge.

Heading east we pass through many old and historic villages including Montlucon. It’s getting pretty lumpy now.

At Annecy we circumnavigate the lake before resting in town. Next day it’s off to Morzine, where Tony spent a few weeks in 2018.

Down to Lake Geneva, around past Chillon castle. I rode around this area in 2018 with broken ribs.

The Freddie Mercury statue and the IOC headquarters are a little further around the lake, and then we climb out of Lausanne and up to Lake Neufchâtel.

Lake Geneva

Getting hillier, we head towards Interlaken where we stay at Wilderswil near the famous Jungrau. If weather permits we will do the Kleine Scheidegg loop.

A brilliant loop under the face of the Eiger that is predominantly closed to traffic with the exception of the local postal service and school bus. We will only attempt this ride if the weather is good as it is some 1900 m climbing at altitude.

Luzern is next for two nights, providing another opportunity for riding around lakes and maybe a return ferry trip to Luzern.

Beautiful Lake Luzern

Then back to Ben and Sharon for three nights where I hope to be for a significant birthday with a zero on it. Ben and I share the same date and it was planned to be together in 2019.

Of course Covid could stuff up our plans but I guess that’s why we have the very expensive travel insurance.

So I harbour great hopes that I can get to see my son. Three and a years is a long time not to see someone you love.

My fingers are crossed xxx

Final French Fling

Judy and Stephan (Sharon’s parents) were coming for mid morning brunch today. They had been staying at their cabin in a forest somewhere high up a hill…I’m sure I could get lost there too if I tried!

I wanted to contribute something to the brunch so had this great idea. Genuine French croissants.

Yes I know I am in Switzerland but France is not very far away. Ben was not sure if they would be open, being Sunday but I wanted to ride anyway.

The roads were ever so quiet. I do like riding earlier before people with cars get out and about.

Leaving Therwil I headed to the border and onto Leyman..,no bakery, but just out of the village, on my way to Rodersdorf, I took these nice rural scenes and another reminding us how fast they can drive here on open roads.

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I rode through a series of sleepy villages including Biederthal, Wolschwiller, Lutter and Raedersdorf. No bakeries but nice scenery.

I liked this church with the ominous sky.

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No man bathing here, but the cat was enjoying it. After this car, I saw many. I suspect there are many wild cats in this area.

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Looking back up the hill to an older chateaux.

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More forest, nice and cooling. Actually the temperature was great. Being so early it was about 19 degrees Celsius.

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Freddy made it onto the side of this structure.

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Then this was adjacent…TNT…it’s dynamite! Made me think of the AC/DC song I often train to.

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This bee hive was in a village. Great to see and surely this is something we could do in Tasmania with local communities getting  behind it.

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Another sleepy village ahead. I climbed around and then over the hill.

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I then had a steady 4 km climb of 6-8 percent and started to wonder about the merits of croissants! Were they going to be worth it, if I was actually able to find a bakery? So far, not one bakery!!

Riding on the town of Ferrette came into view. At the top of the hill is the old castle ruins.

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I found a panel with information. So the castle is Château de Ferrette. The county of Ferrette came into existence in the 11th century and consisted of a large part of southern Alsace ( the French region I was in).

In 1324, the County was acquired by Austria through the marriage of Jeanne, Countess of Ferrette with Albert II, Duke of Austria.

Austria ceded it to France in 1648.

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Having climbed for 4km, there was going to be some downhill….not very fast though as I hate cobbles. Again, this is steeper than it looks. The time on the clock is 8.40 am. Still nice and early.

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Down the hill and around the corner..a bakery!! It was open! A really nice village and one I will come back to explore more.

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I had a coffee and packed my 6 croissants into my pannier  and left as I was not sure how long it would take to return.

I was just cruising and spinning with zero interest in pushing myself as my knee and feet have been playing up from the walking. My body is also still recovering from my 24 hour ride two weeks ago.

I rode through Fislis and Oltingue where I photographed this renovators delight.

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Pretty flower boxes and a sign to the gelato shop!

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Looking towards Switzerland and Liebenswiller.

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Back in Leyman I photographed this cool crossing sign. Quite a few of these here.

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So the croissants made it back safe and sound and a scrumptious brunch enjoyed by all.

Wags, Ben’s dog from Australia, now happily ensconced in Switzerland, ever hopeful of food scraps.

Hannah arrives in a week and she is going to be overjoyed to have a pooch to play with.

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I have now cleaned and packed my bike. I considered riding Monday am and riding with Ben into Basel and back but took the conservative option….’just in case’.

My flight does not depart until 10.45 pm so it is going to be a long few days as I journey home.

Today’s route took me across the Swiss French border a few times as you can see.

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Thanks for reading …. stay tuned for my next cycling adventures. Xxx

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20 French towns and villages in a day

Today I drove my car to Gueberschwihr, a village in the foothills of the Vosges Mountains, France. the entire area is UNESCO listed as a natural regional park.

Many of the villages are listed as “Plus beaux villages de France” and “Ville fleurie”.

Once I passed through Basel and across the border, I sat on an autobahn doing the 130 kmh limit. The distance flew by quickly and I found myself in a very narrow lanes village.

I had predetermined by parking spot at the local cemetery on the village outskirts. It was perfect.

I planned a circuit visiting as many villages as possible in the day. I ended up visiting 20! No wonder they seemed to merge together.

First issues first…I had forgotten to bring my water bottle so would need to find some as a matter of priority as the day was going to be warm.

I headed up the hill towards Voegtlinshoffen, and yes the bakery was open and they had water. Ah, I had left my Euros behind too…but they took card…so I needed to keep my eye open for a bank.

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Refuelling by the fountain above, in what was a very sleepy village, I moved on to Husseren-les-chateaux.

Leaving Gueberschwihr was an interesting fountain, and signs of the recent Tour de France having passed through last month.

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High on the hill is an old castle.

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Narrow lanes, medieval homes, cobbles were to be the norm for the day.  As you can imagine moving through these villages was slow progress, but gives you the opportunity to appreciate the incredible beauty that has been maintained since the 15th to 17th century.

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Once I left the village and headed towards Eguisheim the old castle on the hill had become three old castles.

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Eguisheim is worth a visit for a few hours. Concentric streets, old gates, beautifully maintained buildings, narrow lanes, pretty window sills,  had attracted trillions of tourists. Walking my bike through the centre.

There  were various interpretive panels on buildings providing insight into the history and age.

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The villages flew by in quick succession, often not more than 1-2km apart. Wettoshein, Wintzensheim, Turckheim, Ingersheim, Katzenthal, Ammerschwiher, Kentzheim. I was stopping often to check my navigation points, walking through each for both safety and pleasure.

Silence office 36 metres on the right. Ok…

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Best I could figure was this grotto maybe a ‘silence office’ as it was maybe 36 metres from the sign….

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This village entrance gate looks like a smiling cat.

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Very pretty.

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Fantastic interpretive panels. Turckheim is in the Munster Valley and known for its ancient ramparts.

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I just kept snapping.

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Heading to Kayserberg was this vista as I left riding through vineyards and rejoined the main road.

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I passed by one of the village entrances as I could see another Tour de France sign.

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I rode across the river to view this before doubling back into the village proper. Kayserberg is another village you could spend hours in. I probably stayed an hour wandering around, choosing to walk my bikes as it was filled with hoarded of tourists on the cobbles.

The village features remnants of medieval walls, a Romanesque church, historical half timbered houses, Renaissance burgher’s mansions and a fantastic old world ambience.

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I sat on the edge of this bridge, which dates back to 1514. A French lady had asked me to take her photo as ‘her husband was terrible’. I obliged and asked for one in return.

I knew by the angle of the lens she was not going to capture the bridge or background buildings…I wondered about her husband then!

One hot and sweaty Sharron.

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Leaving Kayserburg I chose a route via the vineyards and stopped to look behind me. A nice view of the medieval castle above the village.

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A bit further along the vineyard path again you can see the Vosges nicely as well as Kaysersberg.

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This view, same spot but looking in the opposite direction. Towards the Rhine Plains.

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Knocking off more villages including Riquewihr, Hunawihr, Ribeauville, Bergheim, Rorschwihr.

This was my favourite Tour de France installation.

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You can see some old castles high in the hills.

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Another old village gate.

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The French love their cycling.

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St Hippolyte entrance… green bike..green jersey? My favourite green jersey rider being Peter Sagan.

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Dark clouds and I got wet. It poured down for about 15 minutes. Bucket loads, but it was still in the high 20’s so not unpleasant but very soaking.

However there were also frequent lightening strikes after the rain and I decided it was time to turn around as thunderstorms had been predicted and I was not that keen to be sitting on a piece of metal, so far from my car.

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It drizzled on and off all the way to Colmar and I kept my camera dry. I rode back mainly via a route through the vineyards.

Colmar is quite pretty, but I am not a bit city fan at the best of times and after securing some food and drink, a few quick photos hotfooted it out of town.

 

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About 14 km later, I arrived back in Gueberschwihr. I turned right at the sign.

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The village square.

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Back to where I started. The cemetery in the vineyards.

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Today’s route and up and down climbing.

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I really enjoyed today’s ride. It was slow going courtesy of the villages but I gained an appreciation of the historical majestic beauty of the restorations, flowers and general ambience.

Certainly I would like to do further rides in the Vosges, heading higher up into the hills next time.

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I once was lost…and then found myself…in France..in a dark forest!

I wake up early and once it was light enough decided to go on an exploratory ride, checking out a few villages…all before Ben and Sharon arose was the concept anyway.

I mapped out a ride but had not been able to upload it to my Garmin so took my iPad.

This is the route I completed today. The thick pink line indicates the border between Switzerland and France, with a smattering of Germany top right.

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There were a few navigational issues initially and I was then on my way to Leyman, although not as originally plotted.

Just a few hundred metres short of the border I stopped to take these photos.

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The road weaved around and I came to this sign. I was pretty sure I needed to take it, and it looked ok bar the red no entry sign.

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So a short climb and I was at the top of a small hill looking back towards Switzerland hills, although the town is in France.

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The road turned to gravel. At first the gravel was fine, you just needed to slow down more.

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The gravel got looser and lumpier and I ended up pushing my bike up a hill. There were side tracks everywhere and I was just hoping I was on the right one.

The gravel became bitumen and I thought, yes….you are on the right one…it lasted all of a few hundred metres as I arrived at this Chapel, bang smack in the middle of nowhere.

Chapelle de Heilenbrunn was apparently a former place of pagan worship, and a chapel with a spring with healing powers.  Where is that spring??

The chapel was first recorded in 1359 and the present building dates back to 1682.

It was sold as national property during the French Revolution, being bought by the municipality in 1812 and restored to a place of worship.

It has since been renovated three times and hosts various events during the year.

Only catch is a shite gravel road! MTB bikes and 4wd worshippers preferable! If you survive, somewhere in that deep dark forest might be some healing springs to soothe your nerves and aches.

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Right, so which direction from the chapel? It looked like a dead end until I noticed a small opening in the forest.

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This is quite steep and I pushed my bike up. Photos never do justice to degrees of climbing.

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It plateaued out at the top and this was the view all around me. Left or right…..I decided right and was met by so many choices as to further track alternatives. Crap!

I figured being in the middle of a forest, if I stuck with the ‘better quality’ track it should end up somewhere ok…..then I started thinking about all of the Monty Pythons puns about being lost in a dark forest, looking for a shrubbery!

There was no Lady of the Lake, King Arthur or Patsy, just me on my touring steed.

I did not see the healing spring, nor did I see one sign post. The Swiss love their sign posts, whereas the French have skimped!!

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Eventually my theory was right and I ended up on a major road….one that I had not plotted on my route…but I figured it out and headed to the next town.

What a shame…a French bakery was open…what do? Well one chocolate croissant later I was moving again.

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From here, navigation was easy as I just memorised the names of each village, and fortunately in each village, the next village in each direction was listed at intersections.

So many pretty towns.

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It was now around 9am and the sleepy villages were arising. I had two smaller hills to climb to drop back I to Switzerland.

At the top of his one is what appears to be an air traffic control tower. This hill is the highest point around and Basel’s international airport is actually located in France.

I had scouted nearby earlier in my route.

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A bit more forest, back into Switzerland and oooh look, a sign post!! I was heading to Oberwil and yes it was listed.

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Back at base Therwil, Sharon and Ben were up and about to have breakfast. Great timing.

We then took Wags for a walk in the adjacent forest. Dogs doing what dogs do…..

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The the rest of the day unfolded.  We caught a tram into central Basel. Went to an amazing pet shop so Sharon could buy Wags some donuts! Yes, dogs eat donuts too it seems!!

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Wags will eat anything but not sure if he would eat this! You know the only way you should cook kale is with coconut oil. That way, it is easier to scrape into the rubbish bin!!

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Then we hopped onto a train to head to the Swiss capital of Bern. A few sights.

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Then another train to Stettlin, the village that Sharon grew up in with her parents Stephan and Judy, sisters Davita and Joy.

It is perched high on the hill overlooking Stettlin and valley towards Thun,

Stephan and one of his daughters attended a course in how to construct pizza ovens and then built this with all locally sourced material. So yes, home made pizza for tea.

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Here we are enjoying dinner.

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Then it was a train back to Bern, train to Basel where there was this bike with a keg type of barrel on the back. I hope it is empty.

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Finally a team back to Therwil, walk back to home base and I jumped straight into bed!!

Thanks for reading…tomorrow the plan is to do a site seeing ride around the Colmar – Vosges Mountains in France.

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