Memories

Memory
All alone in the moonlight
I can smile at the old days
I was beautiful then
I remember
The time I knew what happiness was
Let the memory live again

We have booked a “big” trip for 2024, flying in and out of Milan, arriving early May 2024. I am researching and mapping in my spare time and lots of excitement as to the route that is unfolding.

So far it includes the Italian lakes Maggiore, Como, Iseo and Garda, the Dolomites (Corvara through to Sappada), a finishing stage of the Giro d’Italia (catching up with some of the Italy Bike Tour crew), then into Slovenia (Triglav National Park, Julian Alps) then Croatia (Istrian Peninsula).

Lake Garda is a firm favourite – that will be my third time there, and I cannot believe that I have to climb a shite hill for a third time to get out of there – first time I said “never again”, second time I said “you have to be * kidding me”), and I have mapped it to leave Torbole, shaking my head in disbelief that we will climb it with a loaded bike.

What makes it awful? You climb 100 metres in the very first km, with cold legs, with 14% pinches – no warm up, just straight up – but the view from the top is beautiful (see the video below London to Venice), plus photo taken in 2016.

The most affordable accommodation was at the top of that hill too – and that would mean multiple more climbs (as planning two nights) and I just laughed and said “that is not happening”.

View above Torbole, Lake Garda

Dolomites and Slovenia we have done before, but not around Corvara (maybe Sella Ronda too) and not Triglav or the Julian Alps.

Lake Bohinj (Slovenia) should be a highlight – and then the ride across to the Soca Valley. The Soca valley is super nice.

The Istrian Peninsula – rode through there in 2019 but from Trieste (Italy, on the coast) so looking to differ the route as we head to whichever port.

I need to stop mapping now as I impatiently await ferry schedules to be announced for next year to cross the Adriatic and back into Italy (hence do not know re Pula, Rovinj or Piran, and whether we will transfer to Pescara or Venice).

Leading towards Pescara as we’ve been to Venice at it is illegal to even push your bike on Venice island. We’d need to immediately ferry to Lido and ride from there….anyway all will fall into place.

Rovinj, 2019

Once back in Italy I am thinking Tuscany (again, but some different places and routes), the microstate of San Marino and then unsure which way we will head back up to Milan – but definitely not the Venetian plains.

We are starting near Milan airport and have secured an anchor point accomodation where they will keep our bike bags used on the trip from Tasmania. we will return there for our final night to disassemble and pack the bikes.

This process is not without frustration. I had a place identified but the owner contacted me privately requesting funds above and beyond the stated rate in Hotel.com. It was a non refundable booking, so a bit of a bind really.

It was resolved by Hotel.com in my favour, and they gave me a $250 aud voucher as a bonus!

Research continues and in that process I stumbled across two pieces of our cycle touring history:

  1. London to Venice – 2016 (England, France, Switzerland, Germany, Lichenstein, Italy) 2200 km
  2. Calais to the Med – 2015 (England, France) 1500 km

I used to do a video montage to music of our trips – put a huge amount of time in doing it and stopped in 2017 (Bordeaux to Barcelona) as I had some music copyright issues (but did not know which song!).

We did these predominantly for our memories, but for those that like cycling, like Europe, like music (well my kind of music that is), maybe these maybe of interest to you.

Warning – you do need some time, but you can stop and start the videos.

Both of these trips were before we did self-supporting trips. We used Bike Adventures, an English based company, who provided the route notes (yellow sheets in those days with a series of turn by turn instructions), transferred luggage, provided back up support and pre arranged accommodation.

We made many lifelong friends on these trips – and enjoy staying in touch, and catching up with some of them as we can including Graeme (recently in England), David and John (in Sydney and Tasmania), Graham (in Sydney), Geoff (Italy, Tasmania), Tony (Canberra), Brian (England, Tasmania) and of course, our wonderful friends John with whom we recently stayed with in England (and his gorgeous wife Val)and Alan and his lovely wife Sue in Wales(who have also visited us here in Tasmania….and I’ve likely forgotten someone with my post pumphead brain.

Facebook enables us to stay in touch with others including Helen, Neil, Phil, Jerry….great memories that we treasure and enjoy more and more as we get older, and have felt, firsthand, life vulnerabilities.

The links:

PS. I have not told my Director yet about the next BIG holiday – I am sure she wont mind ha ha ha. We can keep it secret can’t we?

Lake Bohinje, to the west of Lake Bled

The final curtain

The curtain has closed, we made it. 2750 km, 22, 550 vertical metres (2.5 times the height of Everest), four countries later we have returned to Benson, England.

The last 45 km or so we were joined by our friend John, who guided us home. His wife Val was waiting, camera in hand, champagne on offer.

I was teary. Happy, sad, thankful blurring together. To achieve this just 12 months after open heart surgery is truly incredible. Only Tony and my cardiac team really know and understand how hard that journey has been.

Big thanks to that team. Tony for having faith and patience with me as I recovered, supporting that process so that we could continue doing what we love doing.

To Val and John for hosting us and being our daily check in that we had arrived okay each destination. The love and hugs from Val and John are appreciated beyond words, love you guys!❣️

To Alan and Sue for hosting our two nights in Wales and seeing your local area, it was great renewing our friendship and sharing the way we did.

To Alison, Catherine, Graeme, Chris and Marion for taking time to catch up with us, thereby enriching our holiday. Kind thanks.

To family including Hannah and Kay for the regular updates and words of support and encouragement.

To the over 3,000 viewers of my blog, those that commented on Facebook or WordPress, thank you.

We have a full day today and do not leave London until later tomorrow. It will be a long few days, about 54 hours from waking up tomorrow to bed on Sunday night at home.

So, we did ride yesterday, about 85 km. Here are some photos.

We left our hosts in Thames Ditton after a great two nights staying on the island.

Karen, Tony and Captain Tony 😊

We rode maybe 20 plus kmh on the Thames pathway, predominantly dirt/gravel, sealed around the locks. We rode past many locks,

Think this is Molesey, water birds on the dam spillway
Some incredible house boats on the Thames River
Broader view across the Thames
Another lock
Bridge and lock

Our first port of call was Windsor Farm Shop, adjacent to the castle, owned and operated by the Royal Estate at Windsor.

To get there we took the road to Old Windsor, passing by Runnymede, the site being where King John ( brother of Richard the Lionheart, son of Eleanor of Aquitaine) was compelled to sign the Magna Carta.

Runnymede, the memories, is under the trees. We visited there in 2016 en route from Benson to London the day before we started London to Venice.

In 2001 the the Duke of Edinburgh conceived the idea of selling produce from the Royal Estates and the shop opened later that year.

The Royal Farm at Windsor operates as a mixed farm including 200 jersey cows, Sussex beef herd, 149 breeding cows, 1500 hens, 1,000 acres of arable land, 2,000 acres of grassland mainly used to feed the livestock.

I noticed plants for sale that had been propagated by the estate, with a sign saying, from our garden to yours (ours is just over the wall).

Choices
Out the front of the cafe
The farm shop. I noted Balmoral grouse for 12.95 (sterling). Not a cheap feed as there is not a lot of meat on a grouse.

As we left, this is one of the rear entrances to the castle grounds. I have always liked the gatekeeper cottage here.

Roundabout award for the day goes to the triple crowns, with Windsor Castle just behind.

The Long Walk to Windsor.

On the outskirts of Windsor along the Thames is this old plane.

Hawker Hurricane replica, used in WWII

We knew we would find John in the next 10 km as we had passed messages when we left the farm shop. Here he is, having just turned to join us.

As a trio we moved onto the town of Twyford, where John knew of a cycle cafe. Velolife is a great cafe with bike shop at the rear.

Bikes hanging on the rack out front
The bike shop at the rear. Glad we did not need a third spoke replacing! Spent a few $ on spokes.
I was checking out the local ladies club cycle clothing. Very tempted, but I need to carry it, plus we are on our flight maximum weight limits.

We followed John from here, and went home his preferred way through the Chilterns (1,700 sq km area of outstanding natural beauty).

In Stoke Row (a village) is the Maharajahs Well. In the mid 1800’s a little boy was beaten by his mother for drinking the last of the water in their house during a drought. The story was shared with the Maharajah of Benares who decided to fund the sinking of a well in the village of Stoke Row.

The story
The well
The well
The Chilterns
Our final church picture

At last we were nearing Benson and our epic journey was coming to a close as we followed our dear friend John home.

We have started thinking about what is next. We like goals and having something to look forward to and keep our fitness levels up. After 28 days riding we are quite fit and strong and it does goes backwards a bit when you return and not keeping up the same level of activity.

We have been riding 6-8 hours a day for 28 days. Head home and it’s back to our desk based jobs, but I still manage 3 hours a day fitness activity as I prioritise it!

Thanks for joining us in this journey. Over 3,000 views so far. Kind thanks 😊❣️

Tour of London

Today we did a 95 km tour of London, but not before joining Tony (English Tony from our accomodation) who offered to take us around the island in his boat.

Captain Tony

One side of the island is the original Thames river, and this side was dug out during the reign of King Henry VIII.

Hampton Court Palace is upstream by maybe 500 plus metres. The river near the palace was described as more of a broad and twisting stream, subject to the tidal influence still. The main channel was dug out and made straighter providing a grander entrance and providing some flood relief to the local village.

The island is great. Private access, brilliant views, and a lifestyle unknown to many city dwellers.

Tony and Karen’s home, we spent two nights here in a seperate room.

A broad outline of our cycle ride today. We covered a lot of ground. At times we were on busier roads, particularly in inner London. Often there were cycle lanes.

We mixed it with the famous London black cabs, red double decker buses and some super crazy food delivery people on bicycles.

We followed the Thames path on sealed and non sealed sections.

We rode through wonderful open spaces such as Richmond Park and Bushy Park.

Some photos of our day.

Kingston
Thames River
Thames Path signpost
Good section of pathway
Around Richmond?
Thames River and bridge

We arrived at Kensington Palace gardens. There are specific routes you can ride. Very popular spot.

We then scouted through Hyde Park and on towards Buckingham Palace and the Mall.

Kensington Palace
Kensington Palace
Queen Victoria, outside Kensington Palace, sculpted by her daughter.
Albert Hall and Royal Albert monument
Hyde Park
Hyde Park
Hyde Park
Buckingham Palace
Buckingham Palace
Down the Mall

Riding down the Mall was great, quite traffic free, smooth. This road is so often seen in Royal ceremonies including the more recent coronation of King Charles, and funeral of Queen Elizabeth.

It is also a road on Zwift’s London course, with a reverse sprint section here, but I did not sprint 🤣

Then we arrive at Trafalgar Square, and it is fairly busy from here around to the Tower of London, predominantly on roads and cycle lanes. We walk at roundabouts crossing at lights where possible for safety.

Nelson’s column and Trafalgar Square
Tour of London

At the Tower of London we cross Tower Bridge. It is super busy here on the bridge between vehicles and tourists crossing.

The Shard

We then headed north to cross the Thames again and head to Westminster.

Richard the Lionheart statue, Houses Parliament
Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament
Oliver Cromwell, Houses of Parliament
Westminster Abbey
Westminster Abbey

We then headed up through more parks, gardens including Battersea.

Peace Pagoda
Battersea

Past the Trek shop, popped in, popped out.

Onto Wimbledon, and we thought about having lunch in the cafe there, but the security guard insisted the bikes not be within our visual sight and out of sight around the corner. We moved on.

In the neighbouring Wimbledon village, up a hill, we found a nice pub with outdoor seating, next to our bikes, and had a lovely lunch. As I ate, this is the sign I could see that made me smile.

This one is for you Rodney V, they needed you!

Through Wimbledon common area and heading to Richmond Park.

Hire electric bikes on the street.

Richmond Park is one of eight Royal Parks in London. It is around 2,500 acres in size with over 600 free roaming deer. It is an extraordinary oasis in a big city where you can walk and ride.

Popular with cyclists doing very large blocks, there is a speed limit of 20 mph, but many capable cyclists ignore that using it as a training, racing circuit. I was climbing one hill and had a guy straight line the bend towards me and he was moving more like 70 kmh plus.

The park will be closed this Sunday for a duathlon. Great location and many thousands are competing including our friend Chris.

Some view of the park.

Hampton Court Palace was next, famous as a residence of King Henry VIII having ‘acquired’ it it in his usual style from Cardinal Wolsey.

Hampton Court Palace
Hampton Court Palace
Hampton Court Palace

Back onto the Thames River beside the palace grounds.

Thames River
Thames River

Onto Bushy Park another Royal park in London. About half the size of Richmond it is still extensive and provides amazing walking and cycling for locals, and also the deer that breed well. Signs were up re the annual cull.

Dinner with Chris and Marion completed another wonderful day.

I’ve know Chris through cycling (Zwift), when we were both with the same club and would do the same events.

We enjoyed our dinner together, lots of laughs and grateful for the opportunity to meet friends face to face.

Some closer up maps of our route.

One more day left riding.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 26: Lewes to Hampton Court

We were heading to London today, outer London near Hampton Court, but first had a far more important engagement with a man of Sussex fame!

It was maybe 45 minute cycle ride to Ditchling to meet Graeme of Sussex. Far more relevant Sussex than those ‘other two’. He also does not whinge and has a far greater sense of humour.

Few photos on route to Ditchling.

Top of a smaller hill
Nice forests
Wonderful view over the South Downs
Nice church

Ditchling is famous for a few reasons. It is where Graeme of Sussex’s favourite tea room is. It is where Queen Camilla went to primary school as she grew up nearby. Dame Vera Lynn lived here for many years until her passing a few years ago at the age of 103.

Her public funeral procession started in Ditchling and included an airforce flyover. The town was decorated with poppies and her famous war time song “We’ll meet again” was played across the English Channel.

The church over the road, St Margaret’s was founded in the 11th century, with the current exterior 13th century.

View towards the local hills, and a tougher cycle climb used annually in a Brighton racing event.
Local houses

It was lovely to catch up with Graeme. We first met him in 2015 when we rode from Calais to Narbonne and up to Carcassonne. I remember we him in the ferry crossing from Dover when we were introducing ourselves, and he stated his Graeme was spelt the posh way.

A favourite photo of Graeme and I on a warm day in France 2015, no panniers as this was a supported ride (ie our luggage in a van)

Graeme lives about an hour cycle ride from this cafe and we were treated to coffee and tea cake here during our catch up.

We had caught up with him in 2016 and had dinner together, so it was quite a few years, but we just picked up where we had left off.

At the cafe

Graeme lives in Henfield, on our route today so we cycled together for an hour to reach his house, going through his favourite areas and laneways. It was great to ride his favourite routes, as the local cyclists always have a better idea of where to go.

A tunnel along the way

At his lovely 17th century home we sat outside in the garden, chatted, shared soup and got to meet Sandra his partner. Long heard of, but never met, it was delightful to meet her.

Graeme has done many cycle tours with their daughter Matilda, and we enjoyed looking over the photographic memories. Wonderful memories for both.

Sandra, Graeme and Tony
Graeme, Sharron and Tony

Sadly we needed to bid the nicer Sussex chap farewell and continue on our merry way.

Some busier roads initially, but we did turn onto quieter lanes for much of the ride towards London. Many forests and commons, a few lakes and quirky churches.

Timber spire

The roundabout of the day award goes to this one.

There was a road closure on our route with no quick and easy way around ( this was near the top of a hill climb, and I do hate descending and climbing another hill to detour).

So around we go, and we were able to get through but tight squeeze at the other end.

Down the road a car stopped and asked us if we had come through. yes we said. He then said ‘what do you think will happen tomorrow when the workers are back.’ I replied ‘no idea, but we will be long gone’ 🤣

Not sure if he was an annoyed local, or just enquiring as he wanted to get through too.

Thames Ditton Island was to be our home for two nights. You access it via a footbridge and code at the locked gate.

Walking across the footbridge.
Looking towards Hampton Court
Looking downstream

The island is 320 metres in length and has 48 homes with gardens and moorings.

We are in an Air BNB cottage here and love the area.

We went for dinner at the pub Ye Olde Swan just across the footbridge. It was a former 13th century hunting lodge that King Henry VIII stayed at (close proximity to Hampton Court Palace). Great food and location.

Sitting outside for dinner looking at the footbridge to the island
Looking across at the island from the pub. lots of watercraft on the move. today was a public holiday so people out and about making the most of their day off.

So here we are, another day done and dusted, two more left on the road. 95 km today and a lumpy 939 vertical metres climbing.

What a journey we have had, and a few great days ahead too.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️

Day 26: Neufchatel-en-Bray to Dieppe to Lewes

First people up in the hotel we packed and crept down as quietly as we could from the 2nd storey, on the stone steps with metal cleats (🙈) to the reception, grabbing the master keys to unlock the hotel plus the garage.

Never had that amount of trust placed with us in any accomodation anywhere so huge thanks to the owner.

We were on the road by 6.30 am, it was still dark so lights on and headed to Avenue Verte greenway.

The Avenue was quiet bar ducks and rabbits and we cruised along, slowing down for the countless crossings and barriers. It was a 39 km ride and flat.

We stopped as we passed by Chateau de Mesnieres. It is regarded as a jewel of Renaissance architecture. It is open to visit but not today for us.

We went past this chateau, and surprisingly a lot of people people on the move.

Another highlight was Château d’Arques la Bataille high on the hill. It is now owned by the state. Initially built by Count William of Talou, uncle of the Duke of Normandy who became William the Conqueror.

It has a long chequered history, quite sad. It saw many battles over the years, and ultimately purchased by an infamous French group, the Black Band who systematically removed anything of value (tiles etc) for profit. Apparently a number of well to do French families today owe their wealth to their Black Band ancestors who did this to countless historical properties.

We saw this old castle high on the hill

Dieppe is an English Channel port with direct ferry transfers to Newhaven in England, hence our destination as we had a four hour ferry transfer.

It started raining as we arrived in Dieppe and went for a cruise around town to check it out, plus find food as we had not eaten.

We arrived at the terminal well ahead of time and sat with a group of cyclists recounting their tales.

I chatted with two English ladies who spent a fortnight riding to Paris and back. The guy in grey on the left spent a fortnight riding around Normandy. The guy in red rode across to do Paris-Brest-Paris race (7th time he has done the race) and is heading home to England.

We have passed through immigration here, just waiting to board the ferry, that has arrived.

We had a cabin on the ferry so spent most of our time there after eating some over priced food. I heard one lady with two heavily loaded trays, complaining to staff that it had cost more than her weekly shopping bill.

You can survive for four hours without buying their food, and you can bring your own food too!

As the ferry closed in on the English coast a few views as we waited to descend to level 3 where our bikes were stored for the crossing.

Once in Newhaven we decided to head to Brighton along the coast for a look. The Paris-Brest guy told us there was a pathway.

We crossed the harbour and photographed our ferry, much smaller than the Cork to Roscoff, but these ferries do multiple crossings daily.

Parts of the recommended pathway were shite! After a number of km it did improve though and instead got smacked in the face with a westerly headwind.

We dropped down onto this boulevard underneath the white cliffs. We went for maybe 5 plus km along the boulevard. The beaches are predominantly pebbles here. There were areas where it was dense with people, then it would open up again.

Patches of sandy beach

From the ferry, and our ride, we could see an offshore wind farm. It is the Rampion Offshore wind farm and is the first such farm in England. It generates enough electricity used annually by around 350,000 British homes. This is around half the homes in Sussex, the county we were in.

A section of the Rampion wind farm

Little curios along the way included a story telling area, homes on canals and a Vespa parade. There were hundreds of vespas on show. Took me back to Muhlbach in Italy and the Vespa party we had walked in on.

One can never have enough rear vision mirrors on a Vespa it seems.

We detoured from Newhaven to Brighton, as we had not ridden through there before – been close – but not close enough, and I wanted to see the Royal Pavilion. Brighton was transformed into England’s first seaside resort in the mid-18th century.

The then Prince of Wales secretly married Mrs Fitzherbert, causing outrage. He held many lavish parties and in 1815 transformed his house into what is now the Royal Pavilion. The building was completed in 1823 by which time he was better known as King George IV. His niece, Queen Victoria, sold the Pavilion to the town of Brighton in 1850.

It looks quite deserted and sad I thought.

Got to our accomodation on the outskirts of Lewes in one piece, as getting out of Brighton was quite hairy.

We showered and walked into town looking for dinner. 1.8 km ,after we found a pub that had a spare table and were entertained by this dog Stella and her outgoing owner, who kept talking about his ‘first ex-wife’ who lives in Western Australia. We had a lot of laughs.

Two rides today totalling 68 km plus transferring from France to England so a full day.

Three more days riding left in our adventures.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️