Looking for oompah loompahs

Today we bid farewell to the Dolomites. Very low clouds and light rain, 6 degrees…so what was new there?

We climbed, again nothing new for the Dolomites, but it was an easier climb to Passo Di Cimabanche at 1529 m.a.s.l. The pass witnessed much fighting during WWI, with a military cemetery nearby and a bunker established by Mussolini.

No photos at the Passo sign as it was raining and we were cold and keen to keep the legs spinning.

The following photos Tony took as he was riding. He gets the camera out, points and clicks! As I am behind him, I just he does not lose his balance, as I know I would!

Here I am climbing the hairpin bends shortly before the top of the Pass.

There is a lovely lake, Lago de Landro. My bathers have not yet made an appearance on this trip, and won’t be today either. Thanks look like a pretty cool spot for a hot summers day though. The water depth is quite shallow, and the clarity transparent.

Only a few km down the road is another quick stop.

As you can see, the road is wet…it is raining and the temperature has dropped to 4 degrees. Brrrr….moving on.

A few km before Dobbiaco, is Lago di Dobbiaco. I had ridden past this lake last year but had not stopped and ridden off the main road to check it out. Today we did the very slight detour and very glad we did

The lake is the most incredible green, with amazing transparency.

We went into over water cafe at the end to warm up and drink coffee!

At Dobbiaco we turned left (West) to follow a different valley, and the scenery was certainly different. Despite still being in Italy, the language also changed. Signs were now in German. The Tyrol.

The weather also dramatically improved. The rain stopped and the temperature increased dramatically. Clothes off! It was in the high teens!

Now I mentioned oompah loompahs! Last year I was highly ‘entertained’ by a ‘performance’ in the town of San Lorenzan by a group of Tyrolean ‘performers’. It was a Sunday and they ‘performed’ outside the local church.

By pure coincidence today was Sunday, but a few hours later in the day, but we would swing by just in case…..

I’m looking, but sadly no!

A view of the village from a slightly higher position with an old castle higher in the hills above the town.

The adjacent village also had some nice old structures.

We joined a sealed bike path, in great condition. Crossing a bridge, Tony found a replacement for the recently deceased ‘grumpy cat’.

There were numerous small Tyrolean villages.

Well sign posted, great paths.

More animals to pat.

Nice views.

This old castle is at the entrance to Muhlbach, our overnight stop.

I stayed in Muhlbach last year, en route from Zurich to Asolo. I booked the same overnight accomodation.

Last year, we arrived to great festivities with a band playing, dancing, drinking and lots of people wearing Tyrolean costumes. It was the annual Vespa party.

Today was much quieter, and I was told the Vespa party was a fortnight ago and washed out due to bad weather.

Today was a shorter day of 83 km. Tomorrow is Brenner Pass, a very busy mountain pass for all, as there are not that many in Europe. We need to cross to drop down into Innsbruck, Austria.

Todays route and chart.

Fg

I was sad to say goodbye to the Dolomites, but I did not look back. No point lingering as we are not headed that way. Great memories, but looking forward to what is ahead.

Thanks for reading,

Ooroo

Lago Di Misurina

Last night we wandered back from the shops and took this photo of the main church in Cortina with a (partial) mountain backdrop. Unfortunately low clouds have ensured we do not see all.

This morning, around 6 am this was the view out one of our bedroom windows. It was a promising start.

Unfortunately, that was the best of the day weather wise! At least we caught a glimpse of it.

Our ride today therefore was a shorter one of around 40 km, climbing Passo Tre Croce (1809 m) and then heading into Lago de Misurina.

It is quite a stiff climb, with non cooperative cold legs protesting somewhat. As can be seen from our climbing graph, within 8 km, we went from 1200m to just under 1800 metres a.s.l. By most measures, that’s a killer warm up.

The rain was drizzling quite lightly but consistently. You are heating up quickly despite the very cool temperature. A layer of clothing came off.

The camera did not venture out a lot due to the moisture. As you will see there are drops of water on the lens on some photos.

This small lake is only a few km up, and there were signs dictating dogs were permitted.

The following three photos show damage caused by rains, floods, snow melting.

I was pleased to get to this pass. The raincoat went back on. I double gloved as my fingers were really cold.

The road plateaus and descends before turning off to Misurina. You can see that the clouds are extremely low and you only get glimpses of the mountains occasionally.

The lake was frozen. The duck has the ice field all to himself.

We drop into the first open cafe complete with bike parking. We hang our bikes and head inside for coffee.

The view from the cafe paints a fairly bleak picture.

So we order a second coffee, as the rain is now heavier, and the temperature below zero.

We note the stuffed animals! Can’t say that I am a fan but is this a mink?? Vicious looking thing, quite unlike The Mink I know all too well! 😂

Rain or not, we needed to bite the bullet and press on. This is the view from the other end of the lake.

This is a ‘borrowed’ picture taken on a nice day!! It highlights the fickle nature of alpine weather.

We then descended, slowly and controlled as the road was very wet, and it was cold. We did not want to slip and fall.

The rain eased up once we had descended a few hundred meters which was good as we were cold!

At the junction, we then turned left towards Cortina. The weather was a lot more comfortable now…4 degrees Celsius. A pretty junction that we will pass again tomorrow (heading out to Dobbiaco).

We did enjoy our hot shower back at the hotel.

We leave here tomorrow as we head towards the Tyrol, very close to the Austrian border.

There is unfinished business in the Dolomites. Any excuse to return!!

Todays map.

Thanks for reading

Ooroo

😊💪🚴

Dolomites

Fingers crossed, we peeked out our bedroom window early. Rain had been forecast on and off for the whole day. There has been some, but it looked potentially ok.

We had mapped out a few different routes we could ride for our two full days here.

Heavy, misty clouds hung over all of the peaks surrounding Cortina. We decided to attempt a climb up to Passo Falzarego (2120m.a.s.l) and take it from there. I had done this climb last year arriving to sleety and cold conditions at the top, huddling in the small chapel trying to warm up before descending.

The climb is certainly not the longest or highest single ascent we have done. It is a 16 km climb from around 1200 m.a.s.l to 2120 m.a.s.l, so around 920m single ascent.

We headed off and climbed, climbed and climbed. Within a few km we already had great views of Cortina.

Through the one and only tunnel. The signage appeared every 1 km advising you how much further the summit was.

Tony saw two deer…look closely. An adult and fawn are just to the right of the green tree, behind the brown area. Snow clad peaks in the distance.

Patches of snow started appearing when we were at 1600m.a.s.l gradually thickening as we attained greater altitude.

The climb was at a tempo pace, so quite comfortable, despite the continual but steady ascent.

About 2 km from the top, a guy came past in his car, wound his window down and gave us a thumbs up. Ride on!

At the top, there was an amazing amount of snow for this time of year. I had previously thought that maybe the heavy rains may have melted it.

Here I am, just cresting the last incline.

There were a couple of motor bike riders at the top. One guy kindly took this photo.

Also taking a break were these dudes. There were three groups of these disguised test cars using the mountain roads as a private testing ground. They had overtaken us at huge speeds. Tossers!

This is the little chapel I used as a refuge last year. The snow is very deep around it and I did not attempt to revisit it.

The weather was good, we pushed onto Passo Valparola.

When you get to the top of a climb, it is traditional to have your photo taken with the sign, showing the altitude. I was having problems! When I did eventually stand up, my feet went down so deep that the snow was at thigh level, so maybe three feet deep.

So Tony went up instead, and then I used his foot well marks!

Now we had decisions to make. One part wanted to roll on down to Corvara. In fine weather, no problem, but this is an alpine region where conditions can change very quickly. The dark clouds ahead looked a tad ominous.

The sensible voice said, head back to Cortina, you got lucky, had a great climb and views, do not push your luck. The other, competing, very loud voice said, go for it!

I hate internal conflict. I asked Tony what his opinion was. “Whatever you reckon”……🙈🤷‍♀️

The road ahead did not immediately descend greatly. You could see a straight section for maybe 500 metres…so maybe ride it and then have a better look at what is ahead of the descent?

There was a WWI Museum (closed), and when I looked down the descent, I thought ‘nope’, not today.

So we did an about turn and headed back down to Passo Falzarego and then down to a cafe near Col Gallina where a cafe open. Coffee time!

We kept a good eye on the conditions and after a couple of coffees rugged up for the descent. All clothes on. These photos are of the cafe and Col Gallina.

The descent was very cold. Holding the brakes the whole way back to Cortina, with minimal peddling required ensuring you stayed chilled.

We were pretty pumped that we had achieved our higher altitude ride with no rain. The conditions at the top were as good as you could hope for. We got up there before the tourists (two buses arrived as we started descending).

The climb epitomised my love for the Dolomites. 💕

The map route and ascent chart.

What will tomorrow bring? Well the forecast looks like rain…but let’s wait and see.

Thanks for reading,

Ooroo

I’m back!

12 months ago I spent 4 nights in Cortina d’Ampezzo, bang smack in the middle of the Dolomites. It was cold and wet for a few of the days. Will it be this trip?

Leaving Belluno we took a few shots as we walked our bikes around the narrow cobbles streets to the main piazza. The fruit stall and fish vendor had set up since we walked through here last night.

The route plan today was to stick with various cycle routes and paths, as these were options in this area. It would be safer, but slower. We had the day though as it was a shorter ride of just under 80 km. It would be uphill pretty well the whole way, starting our ride from just below 400 m.a.s.l. and finishing at just over 1200 m.a.s.l.

No big towns or cities today, just villages and the outskirts of towns. Here are some earlier photos.

Along the trails there were various signs, water fountains and fantastic views. These trails are shared use with walkers and the occasional car.

You will recall the heavy rains that dumped down only a few days ago necessitating a change in plans. Today we were to witness first hand some of the dramatic consequences. In the photo above, as well as a nice mountain you can see fresh landslide activity.

The bike track went down a slope to this, freshly moved gravel alongside a river. With the flooding, the track was gone.

It was very soft and spongy but at least we got across.

Back onto the road for a short time, off onto a quieter one where we found this herd of sheep being relocated. They were huge with goat like ears. They definitely had a loud baaaa and many wore bells around their necks.

In the next village, a sign indicated that our route was closed. Looking behind us we could see these workers clearing the railway line from landslide deposits.

Whilst we were watching these guys, a cyclist came down the closed road and we asked was it passable for bikes. Yes, but be careful as narrow. We got through without issue, to then switch back onto bike path. Another closure sign but we thought we’d see. Maybe it would be like the last one.

We were riding very slowly and carefully. Just as well because……

Yes it had been partially washed away by the river in flood. That is quite some undercut. In the photo above, you can see the track stops….it no longer exists, and there was just a drop off to the river. I imagine it will be some time before this track is repaired.

A bit of quick map checking and we headed into the road for a few km until we rejoined the bike path and route further along.

We stopped for lunch at a ‘pub’ I’d stopped at last year in Ospital. It was getting a bit cooler and windy. So we made tracks ASAP as rain was the last thing we needed.

The climbing was more intense with a series of switchbacks getting us up around 800m.a.s.l. More climbing to be done.

We eventually turned left to head towards Cortina. There is a brilliant rail trail that runs for nearly the entire length. We went through many small villages, where the old stations have been repurposed. The old tunnels were used for the route, and I think we rode through 7. It was well sealed (with a 3 km gravel section where avalanche barriers and drainage courses are being constructed).

Got to have a Milka first!

On the outskirts of Cortina d’Ampezzo is the site of the 1956 Winter Olympics ski jump arena. Now in a reasonably bad state of repair. I read that the only issue faced was a lack of snow!

The Italian Army transported snow to the area and the competition was hailed an outstanding success.

In conjunction with Milano, Cortina is on the short list ( along with Stockholm) for the 2026 Winter Olympics.

A few more km of riding to reach Cortina d’Ampezzo.

Here we are! Just a nudge above 1200 m.a.s.l. In winter this place buzzes as a major ski resort. That provides advantages to cyclists travelling with bikes as all the hotels have a ski room, for the storage of skis and boots. Perfect for bikes in the skiing off season.

We have three nights here. You need that as the weather can be temperamental at altitude. We have two rides in mind, totally weather dependant.

It is pouring with rain so we got here before it started. Good result.

The last photo is from the bike rail trail. A cafe has set up and this is outside the cafe.

Thanks for reading,

Ooroo

Knock, knock, knocking on the Dolomites doors

I’ve changed the line of a famous song there, but the Dolomites are heaven for many…skiers, bushwalkers, rock climbers, cyclists and sight seeing tourists, as well as being the backyard home for many lucky Italians.

I fell in love with the Dolomites last year visiting as part of a bike packing bike ride I did with my cycling friend Geoff, returning a few days later with Italy Bike Tours and the Giro d’Italia trip climbing part of Monte Zoncolon and other roads around.

It was on the ‘must do’ list for this years trip so Tony could experience the majestic beauty.

First things first, we needed to complete our crossing of the Venetian Plains. I am not a big fan of the Plains having crossed en route to Venice (from London) on a 2016 bike trip.

Our day started with a beautiful breakfast prepared by our host Wanda. She is a very kind and beautiful soul, and we really connected with her. The first shot is at breakfast, where we are holding her dog Pereuka, who recently delivered 6 very cute little pups.

The second photo is with Wanda as we prepared to leave, only to discover Tony had a flat rear tyre courtesy of a tiny slither or broken glass. At least he could change it in a dry garage.

It was raining and only 5 degrees Celsius. It was a tough first 100 km today as our route was predominantly urbanised, traversing the large city of Padova which took us over one hour to shuffle through, continually hopping on and off the bike, walking over street crossings, scootering, manouvering around chicanes.

The number of trucks experienced today was extraordinary for arterial roads, given the highways running parallel.

In between the there were patches of interesting buildings and features.

In the distance, you can see the Dolomites. That excited us, as we were a bit wet. We noticed a bike shop promoting Specialized, our bike brand, so swung in. Ooh some nice new bikes, and we parted with 55 euro. Tony was suffering with cold hands so we purchased thicker riding gloves for him.

For a short distance we rode alongside this canal. The temperature soared…..from 5 degrees up to 9! I needed to take one of my 4 layers of tops off! Which layer shall I shed?

There were more interesting old buildings in the next town.

Check out the base of these olive trees for sale.

More interesting towns with mountain views closing in.

The last 50 km were great. We started climbing, the lands were green, the towns smaller, and tiny villages. This is what we enjoy. The sites were great. Here are a series of progressive photos that I had trouble deciding what to include.

Riding on village lane we followed this guy for a while. He climbed up the 15 percent pinch quicker than us (a bit further along the road).

You can never get enough of the Dolomites. More views just before our arrival into our overnight town of Belluno.

This is our route and climbing graph.

Today was a challenging day predominantly due to the bad weather for the first 50 km or so, and the amount of urbanised ‘riding’ across the Venetian Plains.

We are glad to be in a more rural setting now, knocking on the Dolomites front door.

Tomorrow we climb up to 1400 m.a.s.l to Cortina, our base for three nights. It will be colder and more prone to inclement weather but my fingers are crossed! The forecasts here change regularly. What will be, will be. We are in an area of no Plan B options so whoever is holding the Sharron bad weather voodoo doll, be kind!

Thanks for reading,

Ooroo