Day 3: Bornholm Island

We slept well in our converted barn. We had seen wild deer and giant hares outside. It is so very quiet and peaceful here.

The plan today was to check out another part of the island, and in doing so, complete a lap (including our ride yesterday).

Today’s route:

Starting at the green dot in Stavehol, we headed out along the dirt cycle way to the coast near Gudhjem.

It was cold. It was 6C and we had our winter cycling gear on.

Rain was a possibility with a 30% chance at 10 am, but only 0.5 mm for the day.

Along the north west coast the roads were super quiet. The cycle way is adjacent for the great majority.

Some lovely thatched houses.

Looking out to sea the waters look calm, but the waves were crashing closer.

There are lots of ancient artefacts on Bornholm. This one is a single monolith meaning Holy Woman. Each have an information board.

The Holy Woman monolith. The stones in the background are formed into the shape of a ship.

We ride through the village of Listed. Wondering where everyone is?

In the larger village of Svaneke is this lovely old windmill known as Bechs Molle (Bech’s windmill).

The rear of the windmill.

Bechs Molle was built in 1629 and is the oldest standing windmill in Denmark.

Svaneke harbour also quiet.

Lovely old wooden boat

Another monolith at the site of medieval herring fishing huts

Nexo is on the east side of Bornholm and has around 4,000 residents. It is the second largest town on Bornholm, centred around a fishing harbour.

The Gothic church stands out as a highlight, established in the Middle Ages, as a chapel for seafarers.

Dueodde is Bornholm’s southernmost tip, known for its fine white sand beach.

Riding back to the cycle path, takes us past an imposing concrete tower. A borrowed photo below shows two towers.

The Bornholm tower is the Danish Intelligence Service former listening post, active during the Cold War. Surveillance and listening activities began in 1948 from the brown lighthouse tower.

It is no longer active closing in 2012.

Closer up of the first tower, and where we sat and had a hot chocolate. This photo is also borrowed as there was no blue sky. We donned our rain jackets at this point as the spits of rain increased.

Through the windows of the museum you could see an old fighter jet.

The riding became a bit harder now as we had a very strong headwind. Winds of up to 35 mph had been predicted. It was a balmy 9c now. The rain also picked up, but more nuisance level.

Some sights along the way as we made our way towards Ronne.

Back in the capital of Ronne completed our loop of the island, but we were not done riding wise. We still had to get back to our accomodation.

Riding on the cycleway towards Akirkeby we noticed a series of carved and painted stones in a shrubby area. Stopping to look we found about 30.

The area is known as Slau’s Stones. Slau was a local farmer who upon retirement discovered new skills. He set up an area for cyclists to stop with rock table and seats. He then expanded searching for suitable rocks in his farm and then working what image could best be carved.

The pathway went past this lovely church at Nylars. It is a 12th century round church, originally designed for a defensive role. This church is the oldest of Bornholm’s four round churches.

Originally built around 1165 the church was dedicated to St Nicholas. The old Danish name for Nicolas was Nilaus and hence the present town name Nylars.

Another immaculate and beautiful cemetery and gardens.

Just randomly on the side of the road in a very small village was this….

More forest pathways.

We rode into Akirkeby and the highlight is this old church, built in the 1100s. It is the largest church on Bornholm.

Another random sighting. Someone who is clever with a chainsaw.

We stopped in Osterlars to collect food from the supermarket and completed our 103 km ride for the day.

The map below shows yesterday and today’s ride, so we have covered a good chunk of the island. One day to go here.

Although no great hills here, we have still climbed over 600 metres.

Another day is done on our great Viking Odyssey.

We sat down to home made spaghetti bolognese tonight and creamed rice that I also made, garnished with fresh raspberries and banana.

I do recommend our accomodation to any cyclists touring. It is self contained and a nice 2 km ride to a well stocked supermarket. If interested, please send me a PM or email and I will provide details.

Thanks for following and joining us vicariously. We do enjoy the messages so thankyou.

❣️😊🚴💪

Day 2: Ystad (Sweden) to Bornholm Island (Denmark)

Today we were to catch the first of many ferries on this trip to transfer us from Ystad in Sweden to Bornholm Island.

The map below shows Bornholm, with the blue dot indicating our current location.

To the upper left we have Denmark, to the north we have Sweden, lower left Germany and south Poland.

Being in the middle of the Baltic Sea means it’s windy and cooler.

We self check in at the port using an interactive machine and out pops our ticket, the security gate lifts and we head towards the ferry.

The ferry had just arrived and emptied quickly. When it was our turn we followed the motor cyclist to the far end under a ramp to store the bikes. Gathering our more valuable valuables (passport, plastic cards, bike computer, front and rear lights) we popped up to seating by a window in the front facing lounge.

It is a great set up with two good cafes and a cafeteria. We settled in enjoying coffee and a croissant.

The crossing takes 1 hour 20 and not a lot to see other than ocean. The waters are flattish and the passage calm.

We arrive in the town of Ronne and quickly ride off the ship following numerous large truck rigs.

Bornholm Island is Danish territory in the Baltic Sea, closer to Sweden and Germany than Denmark. The Island was surrendered to Sweden in 1658 but regained by Denmark in 1660 after a local revolt.

The Island is home to many of Denmark’s round churches and the discovery of ancient burial mounds suggests that it was inhabited by 3,000 BC

It has a populations of around 39,000 people.

Ronne is the largest town on the Island with one third of the population living there.

We do a short look and see around town.

The Church of St Nicholas dates from the late Middle Ages constructed in the late 1200s with many updates and renovations since.

The Citadel Battery is part of Ronne’s fortifications from the 1700’s. It was originally seaside, but land reclamation has it further inland now.

A small market was underway in this small park.

Heading out of town, having plenty of time up our sleeves we decided to take the dirt trails for bikes along the western coastline.

For the most part the trail was in good condition heading through forest. There were a multitude of other trails intersecting and criss crossing and there were an impressive number of people out walking, running and cycling.

It followed the Baltic coast line, in places providing coastal views. Nice white beach looking back towards Ronne.

On the edge of one village were these interesting pods. We were not sure if some were accomodation or all saunas?

I liked this rugged vista, with just a few houses tucked away.

A small fishing village and port, with smokehouses. Smoked fish is quite an industry still here on the island.

I liked this fisherman’s house
Kids having fun fishing. There was a bit of excitement as one had caught a fish and others gathered into help.
Quite typical colours of houses in the area

All was going well until we hit this section. Photos never do slopes any favours making them look far less steep. The section ahead increased to 22% gradient with loose and slippery dirt in between part seal.

I dismounted at 10% whilst I could safely as I knew I’d be in trouble otherwise.

I pushed my bike up watching the gradient increase and using my bike brakes to hold as I was walking on the gravel and slipping.

Tony got up before me and came back to help! He’s a keeper!

In the middle section are little steps with dirt.

Sitting at the top smiling. A little further past here there is a carpark and we met another cyclist who was on a mtb bike. He too pushed his bike. Nice bloke was with the Island police force, having originally been in the Danish military.

Hammershus Slot is one of the larger medieval fortifications in northern Europe and stand on a 70 metre high cliff. The medieval fortification was bult in the 13th century.

Saene Harbour was a peaceful harbour near Hammershus. It was all happening with a water training activity underway and a class of school children returning from a walk.

We headed along towards Gudhjem, passing through other towns and villages including Allinge.

It was not warm with the temperature around 8-9 C and a chilly wind. We were rugged up though so no difficulties there.

Some of the buildings along the way.

Still on gravel we found another steep section. Tony rode it, I did not as it was 15%. I did descend it.

Gudhjem is a pretty seaside town that we will explore more tomorrow. The next four photos are the section we did see.

Gudhjem is built on a steep hill overlooking the Baltic Sea.

We turned inland at Gudhjem heading towards Osterlars where we are spending the next three nights.

Looking back along the coast where tomorrow’s adventures lay. Rapeseed is plentiful here too.

Our lodgings are located within the property below. We are in a renovated barn. In the line of bushes to the right is a cycle path that runs between Osterlars and Gudhjem. We just needed to find the right opening in the hedge and head across their field.

After dumping most of our gear, we headed straight back out to the local supermarket for supplies to make dinner and breakfast.

This famous church is en route, and to be discovered more in the next two days.

Osterlars Rundkirke is regarded as the Islands most impressive round church, constructed in the 12th century. Originally the roof was flat, serving as a battle platform for hurling projectiles at attackers. The conical roof was added in 1744.

Today’s routes covering 64 km, 590 metres climbing.

That’s it folks for today. Thanks for joining us and check in again as we learn more about Bornholm Island.

😊❣️🚴💪

Day 1: Copenhagen (Denmark) to Ystad (Sweden)

What a lovely sight looking out our bedroom window. Cargo bikes are popular here. We saw one man with triplets in the front but this one is delightful.

The day was looking great weather wise as we packed the bikes for our grand departure.

First ride was to Copenhagen Airport railway station to cross into Sweden. A lovely station lady helped us to buy the tickets including bikes.

The Oresund bridge is a combined railway and motorway crossing the Oresund strait between Denmark and Sweden. It is also the second longest bridge in Europe at 7.845 km in length. As such cyclists are not permitted on the bridge, and it is necessary for us to cross by train.

I have grabbed two publicly available photos of the bridge. I don’t have the capacity to get a nice aerial shot. I find it fascinating that the bridge heads under the water for a section. This design is great for keeping shipping canals over. It looks awesome in a photo.

We got off at the first station we could in south Malmo.

Malmo is the largest city in the Swedish county of Skane, and the third largest in Sweden but today we were more interested in navigating our way out of the city safely.

Some interesting architecture noted as we left.

The Hyllie water tower is quite imposing designed to look like a flying saucer. It is 62 m high, holding 10,200 cubic metres of water.

A restaurant operated for many years from the top. A striking visual at night when the tower is light up in blue.

Leaving Malmo was all on divided cycle paths heading into rural Skåne (the region name).

It was quiet, peaceful and the vistas predominantly agricultural with villages dotted around.

You can see a distant wind farm looking back towards Denmark
Cycle path along fields of wheat and rapeseed (canola)
Closer up of the rapeseed, brilliant yellow.

Great signage, multiple paths intersecting. The Sydkustleden is the one we predominantly followed today. It is a 260 km coastal cycle way. There are small sections on the road.

We stopped for morning tea at a local supermarket and found a cafe to grab a coffee. Coffee was around AUD $10. Prices seemed a bit cheaper than Denmark.

Bossy bird keeping an eye on us as we sat and enjoyed coffee and a little treat, perched on a cargo bike.

Riding along the Baltic coastline we became curious about the many defence fortifications, often every few hundred metres.

This was part of the Skane Line, a 500 km line of light fortifications constructed during World War II to protect the Swedish southern coast from Germans and Soviets.

There were two lines of defence. The concrete bunkers along the shore were armed with guns and light cannons.

The second line was 300 metres in where armed troops were behind barbed wire, some in more concrete bunkers.

There were 1,063 coastal fortifications, strengthened during the Cold War with the addition of turrets and 75 mm tank guns.

Decommissioning commenced in the late 1990s.

One of the many fortifications

Aside from the fortifications, the coast was a mix of rocky outcrops and nice white beaches.

Overlooking the harbour of Smygehuyk is a statue of a nude woman. The model was actress Uma Thurman’s grandmother!

I imagine this bunker housed troops.

In the distance we saw this ship, TT Line being the operators of the Spirit of Tasmania, but this is a different TT Line.

We deviated from the coast to head inland, up our only climb of the day into strong headwinds. The target was the village of Tullstorp.

Lovely vistas as we headed inland

Tullstorp runestone is a viking age memorial stone. The inscription consists of runic text on a serpent band that frames a central image of a ship and a beast. It is 1.7 metre in height . Apparently the images reflect the Ragnarok myth

The stone is dated to about 980AD and until the 1840’s was built into the medieval church wall. Its original location is unknown. Today it is located in a memorial mound in the local churchyard.

The church and surrounding cemetery was really beautiful. It is perhaps the nicest cemetery I’ve ever been in, with immaculately manicured and maintained gardens.

Leaving the church we headed a little further up the hill, then headed east again.

As we stood off the road on gravel, a car stopped and an older lady had a lot to say to us. We had no idea what she said but she didn’t appear happy.

Other than that, it was peaceful and quiet as we kept moving towards our destination of Ystad.

We arrived in Ystad earlier than we could check in so we sat in a park uploading photos.

At 3 pm we arrived at our accomodation at the old water tower.

This is a beautiful building converted housing numerous short stay apartments.

This is our accomodation, a detached small building just thirty metres from the tower in parkland.

The owner provided a key to store our bikes in the base of the water tower. She later wrote back and told us that the same key would operate the lift and offered that we could go up to the top apartment, level 6 then ascend the stairs to the top see the view.

We did that. What an incredible apartment spread over four levels with a spiral staircase and some 50 steps.

It was a 360 degree view and this one looks towards old Ystad and the harbour.

For dinner we walked to a local supermarket to grab supplies, as we have a good kitchen and fridge here.

It is very peaceful bar the black crows nesting in the surrounding park trees.

A successful first day saw us ride 98.5 km, leaving Denmark to ride the most part in Sweden.

Today’s routes.

Thanks for reading and joining us on our great Viking adventure 2025. 😊🚴❣️💪

Prelude

We’ve arrived.

Once we retrieved our luggage we grabbed a taxi van for the 3.5 km to our accomodation.

That is the view out our bedroom window. Danish flags and cyclists. So many locals cycle past here. Great sign.

We went for a walk up to the coastline along the Oresund sea.

This is the Kastrup bathing area. An interesting structure.

Walking out you can see numerous area to sit, lots of access to the water, some higher diving platforms to the right.

It is only 10 C but there are people further along the rear wall sunbathing.

From the top looking towards the Oresund bridge we are to cross into Sweden.

We found a cafe that had a spaghetti bolognese for 169 kronor. We found that on the Danish menu. She charged 390 kronor for two. I pointed out 2×169=338 not 390.

She said it was because they needed to convert the kronor from the English menu…..I rolled my eyes, just too tired to argue but clearly not right.

So with the AUD $100 spaghetti bolognese eaten we walked home.

We were asleep by 6 pm, unable to keep our eyes open any longer.

We arose about 6 am. Periods of deep sleep interrupted by the confused, jet lagged body at various times.

First task was putting the bikes together. I’m a reasonable useless appendage as Tony prefers to be left to his own devices to undertake the task.

He does a great job, as usual and within a few hours they were ready for testing and any adjustments.

We have an early lunch with fresh bananas and baguette sourced ‘down the street’ and we head off on a 40 km loop.

First stop was the airport as the path goes by the runway perimeter. A Norwegian plane was landing.

Looking towards the seaside village of Drogor. I think this place sounds like a place from Game of Thrones.

Drogor was our first preference to stay at the start of the trip but I could not find anywhere to store our bike bags for the required period. Once place offered but requested three nights additional fees of AUD $900 .

Drogor is a very pleasant village.

Typical housing in the area.

Check out the peeping Tom from the upper level.

Our first mermaid was at Fort Drogor. I thought she looked a bit lost perched amongst trailered boats.

Looking from the fort back across the marina to Drogor.

Fort Drogor was active during World War I and II housing many troops in the underground rooms. Along the top there was evidence of the former battery armaments.

Looking back out the Oresund and a ship leaving, likely from the Port of Copenhagen.

I knew that Thomas Dambo had a troll installation nearby. Nothing is marked on maps but from his website could see we needed to head off road down a gravel path.

Tony noted the troll through the trees and we took a narrower pathway towards what he spotted.

Here he is. I am standing to one side to show perspective of his size.

Thomas Dambo has a Trollmap website where you can register and tick off trolls found. We did find this troll, I’m just not registering 😁

We followed a nice path through a forest, then around a headland that got a bit breezy.

A lovely area for kids to play before we joined back into busier roads around Tarnby.

First impressions are that we are super impressed with the cycle paths and cycle culture.

Todays route.

We are ready to roll out Day 1 tomorrow. It’s happening, it’s on! Tomorrow we cross into Sweden!

Thanks for reading and joining us on our latest epic adventure.❣️

The long haul

Tasmania is a long way from Copenhagen.

16,321 km to be precise.

Our departure day started early, just before 5 am as Khaleesi demanded her breakfast. She was on our bed cuddled up and regular as clockwork, she whinges. She got fed.

I pottered around enjoying my cappuccino, doing the wordle, checking the BBC.

Just before sunrise we took Khaleesi for her final walk before the dreaded kennel drop off. The kennels are fine, it’s Khaleesi’s human parents that are the problem.

The sun has not yet risen above Leith. Within minutes it did.

The tide was rising fast, but there was enough beach for us to get down to the Forth River easily.

Looking to the west.

With Khaleesi safely secured at the kennels and my emotions back in check, we balanced the bags weights.

We can check in 72 kg. We have additional limits as I have lifetime Qantas Club membership. This was purchased when my four children were young to try and save on airport food costs, and have somewhere to rest with them in transit. You cannot buy them anymore.

We are at 74 kg. So adjustments occur with our carry on bags, hoping they round down instead of up we head off to the airport courtesy of our neighbour Brian, with Maggie coming out to give us a hug.

Luggage checked in without issue. He rounded up!

The leg to Melbourne is short. Just over an hour. Our last view of our homelands, looking out to Mount Roland.

A fuzzy view of our home town Turners Beach. The beach in the middle section is our home beach where we walked Khaleesi hours earlier.

Descending in Melbourne we had a good view of the city and Port Philip Bay.

I lived in Melbourne for nine years but think the traffic would drive me batty now. I’ve had it too good living in quiet Turners Beach

A six hour wait in Melbourne tested us.

I used the opportunity to finalise emails, chatting with my friend Pauline, FaceTime with Hannah and Willow, finally doing my work out of office message for my mobile, eating food I did it need in the Qantas Club…..oh still three more hours to go!

It is a 14 hour flight to Dubai plus the 45 min before as we were amongst the first boarded in our section of aircraft.

Did I sleep? I drowsed. I watched the timely Conclave movie, a documentary about Led Zeppelin, played Who wants to be a millionaire learning that New Zealand has three official languages. Who knew! I said two.

We are now in Dubai arriving at 5.15 am and then had to walk a few km to change to C concourse for our next flight, weaving around the plethora of alcohol, jewellery, perfume shops vying for your $.

We are happily ensconced in a smaller Emirates lounge near our gate. This is not our plane but our direct view. Lots of A380’s here.

This is the departure board near where we are seated. Departures only in the next three hours. We are on the 8.20 am Copenhagen flight.

Food is as always fresh and attractive. Tony came back with a chocolate millionaires tart first round. The picture below is a section of the cold foods.

I said earlier I would not succumb to any of their small Turkish pastries. I failed.

Is 6 am too early for ice cream? Asking for a friend 🙈🤣. We’ve both said we are not but we still have another 45 min here in the lounge.

The lounges are decorated in Arabic themes. They are clean, comfortable and functional. Go to the loo and three women are waiting to clean the cubicles after each and every use.

Happy Mother’s Day to all the mum’s out there and soon to be mums including Shani and Erica. Giving both an extra hug. Exciting times ahead. ❣️

Take care and we will touch base from Denmark. 🇩🇰

Oops! Did I mention how far we’re riding?..

So it begins….

Anzac Day in Australia – a public holiday of remembrance. This is what Tony is up to. Not the best photo angle with the sun glare.

This is Tony’s touring bike now in pieces. Khaleesi is watching, apprehensive and she is always the part of our travels that we dread – saying goodbye to her for a period of time, and hoping she copes ok. I cry each time I say goodbye, wracked with guilt.

So it begins – again – another trip after countless hours mapping, planning, plotting. Where?

A man is assembling a touring bike in a garage while a dog watches nearby. The scene conveys a sense of preparation for an upcoming trip.

Hint! Ragnar we are heading your way!

Artistic representation of a Viking character, featuring a man with long hair and a beard, sitting with a sword, wearing a fur cloak against a red background.

I love the series Vikings, stories filled with the legend of Ragnar Lothbrok and his Viking family and warriors including his brother Rollo, the first Duke of Normandy, wife Lagaertha and sons Ubba, Sigard, Ivar and Bjorn. Then there is our favourite Floki! Hoping we do not make it to Valhalla on this trip though!

Scandinavia has long been on our bucket list, but compared to many other European countries, it is not the cheapest to tour through. Whilst we are both still working, it had to be this year or likely never.

Accomodation has been trickier to organise. Numerous places charge for electricity used, reading the meters at the start and finish. Others tell you to bring your own sheets. I am hopeful that I have booked all-inclusive accommodation including power and bed linen!

It was very difficult finding our anchor location in Copenhagen. This is where we leave our bike bags (used to transport them from Tasmania). One place asked for the equivalent of three nights accomodation – or AUD $900.

In the end I found a very friendly guy, just a short distance from the airport, who sent me about 10 photos of himself with cyclists. His name is Chaudhry and he is our champion!

I share some of his comms below as he made my day and went above and beyond most – so if anyone reading this is looking at starting a ride in Copenhagen, check out Chaudhry, who is located in Kastrup, very close to the airport.

A friendly communication from Chaudhry, a host in Kastrup, expressing his appreciation and offering a cozy stay for cyclists with bike amenities and a relaxing garden.
Screenshot of a message from Chaudhry, a host in Denmark, expressing his welcoming sentiments and assuring safety for travelers.

After many months of planning and plotting, this is our route. Five countries, 35 days cycling, 3,300 km plotted.

We will have 15 nights in Denmark, 10 in Sweden, 6 in Poland, 5 in Norway, 1 on a ferry travelling between Poland and Sweden, and separate to our cycling trip, 2 nights in Switzerland catching up with my son Ben and his wife Sharon, and hopefully friends Sandra and Ralph.

At the moment, our maps total 3,300 km but this always decreases due to bad weather and rerouting. Climbing is around 17,500 metres, but that is indicative as there is usually a variance there as well.

The proof will be in what we ultimately upload to Strava daily and tally at the end.

We hope to meet two Zwifters, Cecilia in Sweden, and Rudi in Norway. It is one of the privileges of cycle touring that we can get to meet people with similar passions to us. We treasure these catch ups.

A detailed route map showing cycling paths across Denmark, Sweden, Poland, and Norway, with notable ferry routes highlighted in red.

The straight lines in the map are ferries. We have a few. First of all to get to Bornholm Island in the Baltic Sea – ferry to and from, then the long overnight ferry from Gdansk (Poland) to Karlskrona (Sweden). We ferry from Sweden across to Norway, then Norway back to Denmark, and another from one Danish island to another.

All ferries are booked – hopefully correct days!

An interesting point in the trip shows on the map, lower right – and out and back line to the Russian border, otherwise known as the Kaliningrad oblast (region) . It is the westernmost part of Russia and a province separated from the rest of the country by the Baltic Sea, Poland and Lithuania.

The port city of Baltiysk is Russia’s only port on the Baltic Sea that remains ice free in winter. The oblast is an oddity resulting from World War II agreements.

We are cycling towards the border, on a narrow isthmus – how close, not sure. If we go missing, start looking there!!

We hope to see some trolls – such as the one in suburban Copenhagen below. Thomas Dambo is a Danish “recycle art activist” globally known for his giant wooden troll sculptures, made entirely from recycled materials.

He has trolls in over 17 countries, including six in Mandurah, Western Australia. They are seemingly off the beaten track and possibly not suitable for us on bikes, but we will see….

A large wooden troll sculpture by Thomas Dambo, surrounded by trees and near a reflective body of water.
A large wooden troll sculpture in a grassy area, with a boat tied nearby, surrounded by trees and buildings.
A detailed map titled 'TROLLMAP' by Thomas Dambo, featuring various marked locations across Denmark and parts of Sweden, showcasing the locations of giant wooden troll sculptures.
Useful map lol……I am sure we will have no problems whatsoever now finding them! We are going through (or near) quite a few spots marked with an x.

We will likely start to pull the clothing out this weekend – we take a spare bedroom each to sort our gear out on – but we have this part down to a fine art. It is more the other little bits and bobs – like toiletries, making sure we have enough of our medicines and so on. As long as we have the correct riding gear with us for all climatic conditions, enough script medicines, most other things we can source armed with a piece of plastic.

One item that always make the cut are spare derailleur hangers – they are super hard to source as bike companies like to make theirs unique per model. So we will have numerous spare hangers with us. It is an insurance policy.

For non-cyclists, the hangers protect the derailleur (the mechanism that moves the chain from one sprocket wheel to another) in case of an accident/spill/damage to the derailleur – derailleurs are expensive and hard to replace. Hangers snap and if you don’t have one with you it can bring your trip to a screaming halt! We have had to replace hangers on previous trips. Once Tony had a spill coming around an oily roundabout just out of Paris. Another time, my bike just fell over in the wind when I leaned it the wrong way off the bike. When I broke my ribs with my spill in Switzerland, the hanger also snapped.

My bathers always come along, and seriously, they are the best travelled, most under utilised item on each trip. I feel if I don’t take them though, surely that will be the time I want them!! I am taking a newer, heavier weight jersey this trip – but will have two additional small panniers on the front too!

Idea there is to not put as much on my rear pannier so I do not have to swing my leg quite as high up and over (the cause of my accident in Slovenia last year was when I did not quite lift my leg high enough, and we both came tumbling down and I got the massive hematoma – and still have a small lump there).

The next fortnight will fly by – I have been under the pump at work with Estimates coming up in Parliament, then a politician decided under the Request For Information Act to ask for over 125 documents (1200 pages) of a grant program I manage, so worked a public holiday this week to get on top of that as we were given four work days….then I need to sort rollovers (financial adjustments from one financial year to another) out before I leave – in addition to my normal day to day work.

I will be ready for a holiday – but then there is Khaleesi – the dread, the guilt as she is so much part of our everyday life. The balance between loving your dog and wanting to do holidays is not easy. On our last trip, one of her hairs was caught on my handle bar tape – so as I rode I felt I had part of her with me – not planned, just the way it is with her dog hair flying around at home I guess when the bikes were being packed.

That’s it for now folks.

Ooroo!

Hoping the weather gods are kind

Day 13: Wellington, our final day.

Our last full day in New Zealand before flying home tomorrow.

The weather forecast is for rain and wind. Got to love summer, sounds like a Tasmanian weather forecast.

We are staying at Rydges Wellington Airport. I had prevaricated with making a booking here being right at the airport, but there were advantages given we were arriving around midnight and the bike path to the ferry was around 10 km and flat.

More importantly they agreed to store our bike bags for our return.

When we left to start our ride, we were told to take the back lift that would take us to the carpark. On our return, press the buzzer and they will electronically open the door.

That did not work upon returning. No one answered. So we rang and were told we would have to enter the airport and wheel the bikes through the airport to the hotel.

That alarmed us. Seemed odd to us to wheel loaded bikes through. Nevertheless we did as requested, up two escalators in the process (not easy with the extra weight on the bike).

They did not blink with our bikes going to our room.

Today we went back down through the hotel and airport to do a short coffee ride into the city to meet up with friends, sisters Dale and Shona, who had been bushwalking and visiting family. Great to catch up and share adventure stories.

Headed back to our hotel via the coastline. The weather was forecast to deteriorate as the day went on.

Wellington is hilly and the hill elevators are quite common for transporting people and goods from the road level up to their homes with a view.

Couple of hill elevators ahead. Many have a garage at road level.

This bay had people swimming the previous day. In fact, there are a few to the left today. This bay was much calmer and sheltered, featuring boat houses.

I liked this boat house.

Nearly back at the airport, we swung right at this point, a Hollywood like Wellington sign on the hill.

This tunnel goes under the main Wellington airport runway.

We ride up to the airport main doors, walk in and up this escalator, turn right up a second escalator and we’re in our hotel.

Bikes can fit on escalators. Easier without the luggage to balance.

Off the second escalator and onto this long carpet strip to reception, turn right to head to the accomodation room lifts. super convenient.

Back in our room and it’s the part Tony hates. He is smiling here….for now 😁

Our Zwift friend Thomas kindly picked us up for dinner, just as a massive storm hit Wellington. Super strong winds and a huge amount of water streaming from the hills into the gutters.

We joined another Zwift cyclist Peter and enjoyed a lovely few hours together talking all things cycling.

I first ‘met’ Thomas and Peter via the Trek team rides I’ve been involved with on Zwift.

The opportunity to meet like minded cyclists is one of the greatest gifts our touring has given us.

Thomas, Peter, Tony and Sharron.

Our map loop has been completed. 12 days riding, 1,010km, 6986 m ascent. No injuries or mechanical issues.

Lots of good memories ❣️🚴

Thanks for reading. There is more to come, as I intend to do some various country highlight blogs leading into our next big adventure commencing in four months time.

Where? Well five countries, 3,000 km cycling and think Baltic and Scandinavia! ❣️❣️

Day 12: Blenheim to Picton to Wellington

To finish this trip, we needed to ride to Picton to catch the ferry, then once in Wellington, ride to Wellington Airport to the Rydges Hotel.

We had both slept well in our hosts Air BnB, and had a delightful breakfast awaiting us. Anyone needing accomodation in Blenheim, I can highly recommend Ella.

Leaving town we passed by Seymour Square and their town clock.

We started off on a mix of highway and gravel shared pathway adjacent to the highway which was quite busy with trucks and cars heading towards Picton and the two main companies that plough across Cook Strait.

The day was very overcast with low clouds hanging over the hills and ranges thereby limiting views.

Crossing the Wairau River (followed for much of the previous day), two things of note. Firstly the amount of timber debris caught up on the pylons of the railway bridge. One would presume similar underneath the bridge we were standing on.

Secondly, as part of the shared pathway, a bridge had been attached adjacent without the use if online but using the main bridge structure for support. It’s a great, safe crossing and well done to the regional council.

Looking back towards Blenheim

We noted signs for The Whale Trail and decided to follow it, given the calibre of signage.

Later research revealed that the Whale Trail inception was at 12.02 am on 14 November, 2016 when the magnitude 7.8 Kaikoura earthquake struck the region.

Sections of the state Highway and rail corridor were obliterated isolating communities.

The trail, upon completion, will be a 210 km cycling and walking trail from Picton to Kaikoura.

At one junction was this poignant reminder. The loss of a young persons life, and suffering friends and family. Unopened bottles and cans of beer, fruit juice, photos all serving those who loved him as a sad reminder of the tragic loss of a young life.

This section of pathway weaved through dense vegetation.

The signage continued with no warning of this…

There is a significant drop from this bridge. The track just ended. There is a 2-3 metre drop off the end.
The track has not continued as far as we could see forward.

Whilst it’s a great track, there should have been a reroute sign nearby 2 km cycling back tracking cyclists back onto the highway.

We rode part way back until we found a spot we could push the bikes back up a hill to the highway.

On we continued. Still low clouds but pleasant views.

Still the vineyards continue

Then just as the track had suddenly stopped, we noted its reappearance, again with no signs to take you from the highway.

We hopped across just after Picton Airport as there had been a fenced railway in between.

An example of the signage, however you cannot ride to Blenheim as it suggests. Once completed it will be a fantastic and safer route for cyclists.

Back on the trail, this section gradually climbed around a hill, and was quite soft to ride on. It will compact more with time.

Arriving in Picton we decided against the additional 15 km planned along an adjacent hill to a lookout. The clouds were still low, rain threatened.

We found a cafe and had a coffee, then moving across the road to the picturesque park to start cleaning our bikes, as we had a few hours to kill.

Cafe view
In the park, a ferry us just departing
Kayakers ready to head out
Bike cleaning in progress.
That is our ferry arriving

We have been on many ferries now with our bikes. Procedures are different everywhere. Sometimes we line up with the cars, others have a lane for motorbikes and cyclists.

Once our bikes were strapped to trailers and we went aboard as a foot passenger.

Here, we were to wait until the luggage truck headed to the ferry after all passengers transferred in shuttle buses. It was a bit eerie being the last passengers so far away from the ferry wondering where that luggage truck was.

Just as I was chatting with a Maori, donning a very heavy backpack, wearing gumboots, with a sign saying Wellington (he was hoping to hitch a lift with a car going on the ferry obviously not realising that he needed a ticket) the truck appeared and waved at us to follow.

Before I could get a photo, off we sprinted to catch up with the truck and follow it across the dock. Onto the very back of the ferry we tied our bikes up and headed to our cabin.

There we remained as we both felt seedy with the ferry rocking and rolling a bit more.

Last on, first off.

There are multiple vehicle levels. We are on the lowest deck, which is last to load, first off.

The door is still locked.

We were warned that the noise would be super loud as the hydraulics kicked in. They did not underestimate this!

The guys are waiting with their barriers. We are not that silly….

Anyhow it was a mere 10 km or so back to our accomodation following the coastline.

At one spot we debated which way to go and a cyclist passing by says ‘ Hi, I’m Thomas’.

Wow! Thomas is a Wellington based cyclist I know from Zwift ( but not previously met in person) who came out to find us! He found us and led us to our finishing line.

We were both very humbled by his kind gesture and will be having dinner with him and another Zwifter tomorrow night.

Thomas caption from his ride to find us.

So here we are. Wellington. One day remains and it will be social and practical. Thankyou for reading today’s blog. 😊❣️

Day 11: St Arnaud to Blenheim

Packed up and ready to roll, we enjoyed a wholesome breakfast (large bowl porridge, granola, fresh fruits including strawberries, raspberries and blueberries) and the ubiquitous ‘Sharron cannot ride without’ coffee.

Great view from our table. We watched the melodious honey eaters searching for nectar in the flax flowers.

The front of our accomodation after forking out $1,025 NZ for two nights, two dinners, two breakfasts….gulp. I don’t feel quite so guilty for breaking the glass in the unit that shattered into so many pieces as we were leaving.

The accomodation itself is a common motel presentation but it is the location at this time of year that has driven the nightly price up. The meals were excellent too, with the porridge with add ons (fresh fruit and granola) being $32 each.

On paper today our ride into Blenheim would be an easier ride, despite its 103 km length.

There was a gently 5 km uphill section before a very gradual downhill run, which would have a few undulations.

The first half was wind free. We thought we were on easy street and then bang, just like that, there it was, as ubiquitous as my morning coffee. I like my coffee strong, and so it seems, wind too 🤣🙈. Happy New Year Sharron and Tony, love from the Weather Gods 🤣

View from the top of our climb.

We were in the Wairau Valley, following the river of the same name, ridges and mountains including Mount Richmond either side.

Enjoying the ride, I’m quite layered up here as it was quite cool.

We crossed over the Wairau River, which is very wide and silted in places but you can see that gravel is removed regularly, similarly to what we see with European alpine river systems.

New Zealand does not have venomous creatures like Australia. You can go for a bush pee without fear!

However, they more than make up for it with geology. This valley forms part of the Alpine fault and is moving at 30 metres per 1,000 years. That is considered to be significant.

South Island is also overdue for a major earthquake. There is a 75% chance of major earthquake happening in the next 50 years. There is an 80% chance it will be a magnitude 8+ event.

The Alpine Fault has a regular history of producing large earthquakes. Over the last 8,000 years the Alpine Fault has ruptured 27 times.on average, every 300 years. The last significant quake being in 1717.

The valley is also famous for wine growing. 30 km or so, both sides of the road, were dedicated to grapes. the word Wairau in Maori means ‘river garden’ and today could see why. Fertile soils, multitude of labels and vineyards to visit.

The road was incredibly long and straight. The last 50 km was headwind.

Look at the wind map. Seems common. The wind comes up the east side of South Island, swings west, then south across Nelson and bang into our faces riding.

More views!

There were no places we could stop to grab a drink or food today for 90 km. It is a public holiday today here, but even on a business day, it would be necessary to be self sufficient for the ride.

We stopped here at a small cemetery as there were toilets.

Our route took us through Renwick with only 13 km remaining. It had started to sprinkle rain. We found a supermarket open and grabbed a banana and roll and put the two together!

Rain jackets on it got heavier as we approached Blenheim, some two hours before we could check in to an Airbnb home.

We took shelter in a covered bus stop. By chance, our Airbnb just wrote to us confirming 4 pm. I let her know we were in town sheltering and she said we could check in at 3 pm. We were super grateful ❣️

So here we are. Last full day of riding completed. here is our riding route to date. The blue lines are from our comp,eyed riding data. We will join that line from Blenheim to Picton tomorrow.

Todays route

Thanks for reading….two half days if riding remain.

😊❣️🚴

Day 10: Nelson Lakes National Park

Today we were set to explore a section of the Nelson Lakes National Park, home to the beginning of the Southern Alps.

Our base is the town of St Arnaud that we arrived in last night.

Looking around at the other guests at our accomodation, many are here to do walks, mountain biking and boating.

Unlike Tasmanian National Parks, we have been able to access the parks here free of charge.

Two alpine lakes, Rotoroa and Rotoiti form the heart of this 102,000 hectares park.

Both lakes are surrounded by steep mountains, and surrounded at shore level by honeydew beech forests.

We had a great breakfast and set off.

Here is today’s route. essentially only three roads were ridden on.

St Arnaud-Kawatiri Highway, turning into the Kawatiri-Murchison Highway, then turning left onto Gowan Valley Road. Hard to get lost today.

The roads were all good quality but the middle 6 km (each way) section on the Kawatiri-Murchison Highway was busy, narrow, little to no verge. The other two roads were quiet and far more enjoyable.

Essentially riding three valleys today

The gradient replicated the three roads. The down is the first two roads, then the up to the lake and opposite to return. Whilst it looks steep it wasn’t. The average gradient climbing was mostly 2-3%.

We had a headwind on the first downhill hoping it would not change direction for our return journey. Of course, it did and we did the climb home into a growing intensity headwind.

Our graph a mirror image being an out and back route.

Weather wise, it started overcast with a small probability of rain.

We left well rugged up. I pulled out my long sleeve thermal base to wear, then my cycling jersey, then my wind gilet, then my Assos wind jacket, then my Assos visibility vest. Legs were bare but they do all the work. I had leggings on the bike I could put on if need be.

Layering is what gets you through inclement weather…taking layers on and off, having somewhere to store them too as you ride.

By the time we returned I was down to my more usual kit with the thermal and jacket both off and stored away.

Looking back towards St Arnauds
Looking forward
Looking ahead
We crossed many nice rivers. This is the Buller River.

Reaching the junction of our second road, the Kawatiri-Murchison Highway there is a pleasant roadside stop, toilets, historical information.

The Great Taste rail trail that has featured heavily earlier in our trip used to connect with the former station here.

Turning towards Lake Rotoroa we see the mountains again forming the St Arnaud Ranges.

Finally after 43 km we arrived at the lake. Superbly majestic.

This is looking towards the St Arnaud Ranges
Popular with boaters

A family were preparing to launch their boat.

We had planned to spend time sitting by the lake. Little black biting insects had other plans and we stood there slapping our legs silly.

New takeaway? Find a small insect repellant to add to the first aid kit I carry. Preferably flat sachets!

As we ate some food, slapped our legs like a crazy Finland Fish Song Dancer we read about Peter Johanson, a Swedish immigrant and early pioneer of the area.

This is the remnant of one of his hand cut canoes.

An interesting story. Click the photo to enlarge the writing.

Heading out from the lake we crossed this bridge where the Gowan River flows into the lake.

The road out was still quiet. Mostly the traffic was heading towards the lake.

The Gowan River flows adjacent to the road.

An interesting scar. Forestry to the left, native to the right. Very steep banks with evidence of little soil to replant the pines.

I have read before that it was a Tasmanian who introduced possums to New Zealand. Whilst regarded as a pest, there are others who make products from their fur.

Living in Possum Lane, Turners Beach, we have two types of possum (brush tail and ringtail) that visit (as seen on our security cameras at night and evidenced by Khaleesi carrying on when they walk along the fence).

The only time they have annoyed us, or should I say me, is when one destroyed my zucchini’s last year. I was unimpressed.

Quirky and someone with a sense of humour set this up in a paddock.

Heading back along that final road was the steady climb and the most annoying wind direction had swung around to be a headwind with increased gusty intensity.

It is a cyclists curse when that happens as you hope you will benefit one way at least. Not today….again!!

We made slow you going of the last 20 km. At times the wind was so strong I could not even do 12 kmh.

Here is our speed graph for the ride. you can see how the speed dropped from just before 60 km. That is the wind factor.

We had great views looking back towards St Arnaud’s. This is a great road for cycling, despite the wind. cars were considerate and the road was quite wide.

Buller River
Getting closer

After 85 km and 734 m climbing we were back at our accomodation

After dinner we went on a 3 km walk down the road to Lake Rotoiti.

A local resident had this natural weather indicator in their front yard. Click the photo to enlarge the writing.

No dogs, not even in your car!

Lovely views along the lake. It was quite windy and cool down by the lake, nevertheless there were a group of kids swimming as their well rugged up parents watched.

Views around the lake.

Various watercraft hidden under bushes around the lake

It’s been great visiting the alpine lakes and seeing the northern mountains of the Southern Alps. Quite the contrast after our predominantly sea view trip.

Tomorrow is a new year, 2025.

We’ve had a great 2024 with our cycling adventures, visiting Italy, Switzerland, Slovenia, San Marino, New Zealand completing over 4,000 km outside of Australia.

My strava data tells me I did over 21,000 km in total for the year.

Whilst that sounds pretty ok, a lot of that is on Zwift, an easier way of amassing training km than outdoors as there are no weather elements and cars to contend with and the cycling speeds are higher, draft benefits are strong. It keeps me fit though for what we do touring wise.

I want to pay homage to our friend Kat Secteur in the Czech Republic.

Kat has done over 55,000 km for the year and it is all outside. 100%. She does not have a trainer. What’s more, the weather whilst she rides now is winter, so lots of snow and her ride a few days ago was minus 1c.

Well done Kat. I had the pleasure of doing a day ride with Kat back in 2018 of about 235 km. We rode out towards the border of Czech Republic, Poland and Germany. That is my biggest outside ride and it was with a wonderful group.

Well done Kat, inspiring women globally.

Happy New Year readers. Thankyou for your continued support and may 2025 be happy and healthy. 😊❣️