Sunshine

The forecast today was warm. When we left Prague Moravska Trebova it had been 8 degrees Celsius. It got down to 4 degrees on the first day so to read that it would get to 28 degrees was a pleasant surprise.

Ah, yes but there would be a southerly wind. Of course, we were heading south as we had decided to pop into Vienna, 140 km away.

Beautiful looking out our bedroom window in the early Brno morning. It was 7 am and the church bells had just commenced.  The market was being set up.

 

A substantial breakfast, quick pack and we left Brno around 8.15 am, to contend with early morning traffic.  I am not a fan of cobbles, most people understand why.  I’m not keen on tram tracks either.  Here we had both!

Leaving Brno navigationally speaking was easier than anticipated. Once we had crossed over a plethora of railway and tram lines we were in an industrial area and picked up a cycle track adjacent to the river.

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For a section this morning we were on Euro Velo 9, a route that goes from the Baltic to Adriatic Seas, and one we have considered riding the length of.

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The first 50 km was really pleasant riding. It was warm with a gentle southerly breeze ( maybe 10 kmh). It provided a gentle cooling effect.

Again we were predominantly riding through agricultural areas interspersed with various sized towns and villages.

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It was mid 20’s by mid morning and we had left our lip balm on the floor of Mirek’s house, so we stopped at a chemist shop to buy balm and some sun screen. The view up and down the main Street in Zidlochovice.

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Leaving town this was our bike path.

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We crossed a small bridge over the river.

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The road started to undulate as we headed towards a large lake Nové Mlýny.

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We needed to cross this lake and head to the right hand side of the hill.
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Glorious sunshine – brilliant riding through here.
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Remnants of an old castle at the top of the hill.

The lake features a lengthy bridge crossing. You can see a small section on the far right of this picture.

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Riding through the small village of Horni Vestonice, we rode past many of these structures, predominantly constructed under the small rise.

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The village of Horni Vestonice. I was disappointed the icecream shop was closed!

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We had planned to grab some refreshments at Mikulov, a few km short of the border with Austria. Arriving into town we were surprised just how large and busy it was, with lots of heavy transport vehicles. We opted to stop at a service station on our side of the road, rather than cross into ‘centrum’.

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Best we could find in such a busy spot!

Quickly consumed a Mr Brown!

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Whilst it might not have been the best spot to sit, it did come with a pretty top view of Mikulov Castle.  The castle stands on a place of historic Slavonic settlement. The original castle was commenced during the thirteenth century, and the current one early 1700’s.

The Germans occupied Mikulov during WWII and upon withdrawing from the town, set fire to the castle. The local museum historical collection was destroyed as it had been stored there for safekeeping.

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Crossing the border was easy, as the checkpoint buildings were closed. Looking back,  the castle was still in sight.

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After a brilliant morning with no navigational issues, the wheels fell off the cart. We arrived in an area of massive roadworks associated with the extension to the autobahn.

Trucks seemed to converge at speed and were whizzing past is very closely, giving us the absolute heeby jeebies!

Extensive map consultation took us on a couple of longer, ‘alternative’ routes through agricultural land.

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Eventually one of our routes arrived at a junction where the highway and autobahn connectors met sans roadworks. We took the major arterial road and stayed on this route all the way to Vienna, as per our original route plans.

Stopping in Poysdorf we opted to have a more substantial lunch.

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Tony enjoying his lasagne

Poysdorf is quirky, with many statues around.

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Nice village

The southerly wind had increased in intensity and we were to have it in our face for the rest of the ride, adding a bit more of a challenge.  Whilst it slows you down, for most of the time, it provided effective cooling as it was now the forecast maximum of 28 degrees Celsius.

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As we approached the outskirts of Vienna, one final rest for the bikes at a supermarket whilst I grabbed some supplies.

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Vienna is a large city with an intricate road network. The final 20 km was quite slow with constant stopping and starting for red lights.

We crossed the Danube River as our accomodation was nearer the city centre. A few challenges finding our hotel as the street address differs to where it is actually located (on an adjacent street).

Great hotel, self check in (new one for me) and the bikes are in our room! They provide you with a portable device to take around town with wifi, phone calls free of charge. I am impressed.

Tomorrow we intend to cruise around Vienna and see what we find and maybe head down the Danube on the westerly flanks.

Today this was our route and elevation map.

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Thanks for reading and I look forward to letting you know what we got up to in Vienna where we are spending two nights.

 

 

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I changed my mind

One of the aspects of cycle touring is that you need to be flexible and adaptable. Whilst I had a carefully crafted route mapped out with supporting accomodation, health, safety and enjoyment come first.

We woke up and confirmed via meteorological sources that we would have a tough day heading to Rybnik with strong winds forecast. So we changed our minds and decided to head to Brno.

Changing your mind comes at a cost because there is a domino ripple with subsequent days routing but we would look at that once in Brno.

The accomodation in Merovska Trebova was quirky. An extraordinarily well appointed apartment right down to magnifying reading glasses and every conceivable toiletry possible.

The owner who had seemed somewhat inebriated the previous night (perhaps frustrated at our very late arrival) had been disappointed we would not drink beer with her.  Sleep was on our mind!

She scrubbed up early as we had requested 7 am breakfast and met in in the cellar.  Quite literally the cellar.

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Our bikes had been stored there overnight.

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We demolished a wonderful breakfast. This is all we left.

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Packed and ready to roll we headed into the village square.  It was a fresh and crispy 8 degrees. Very pretty little town.

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After riding at 8 kmh for 1.5 km on the cobbles we had found our navigational starting point. We were both cold as 8 kmh doesn’t not generate any body heat. I was glad to get off the cobbles given my history last year where I ended up with multiple fractured teeth and ribs riding on cobbles.

Today provided different challenges.  It was cold and the easterly wind still prevailed. Navigationally it was very slow at times due to a few different factors.  Weird and often confusing route selection by our Garmin app, blockages and a variety of surfaces.

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Wandering sheep and patched road, but beautiful area
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Nice meandering bike path

We were lucky to miss this fallen tree, it had only just fallen.  Ahead you can see a man with a chain saw coming to cut it away from the track.

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Blockages
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Solid dirt and gravel trail

My favourite sealed trail beside a creek.

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This is an example of a weird course route decision by Garmin. There was a 20 percent incline section, which is a push the bike up the hill kind of moment. We had to walk up and around this blockage too.

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We perservered with the odd route, inherently believing it to be wrong. We heard a big noise as we descended down this hill and had to get ourselves and our bikes off the track and lean back flat against some trees.

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The towns and villages today were again predominantly rural.  It was quite overcast for most of the ride hence the gloomy look.

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The Czech Republic has the highest density of castles per sq km of any country in the world.  Here is just one we passed in Letovice.

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Church building in the same town.

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Arriving in Brno we sat down in the main town square and booked ourselves into this hotel. They were so accommodating with the bikes.  The older concierge guy had been watching somewhat curiously. He disappeared and the lady at reception started telling me there was no room in the luggage locker…she was interrupted by this man who in Czech told her that he had rearranged the room and our bikes would fit in!  I was so excited and thanked him, but all he wanted was a hug! Sweet guy.

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After showering and washing our clothes we started to wander. In the photo below you can just see some of our clothing drying in our window on the third floor. A feature of our rides is ha going clothes to dry in prominent spots. It is like the Queens flag flying above her castles indicating her presence.

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The old church is interesting.  Originally constructed back in the 12th century it was rebuilt around 1400’s.  At some point the Swedish attacked the area, and the church powers decided to torch all the homes on the hill leading up to the church to keep the Swedish at bay. The fire was so successful and inconceived that it continued up the hill and burned the church.

It was left unrepaired and the Swedish had a second crack a hundred years later further damaging the site.  It was repaired/rebuilt in the 18th century led by a man named Grimm.  Interestingly his body was one of the many we saw in the crypt.

The crypt has 50 plus preserved bodies for viewing. It was a bit creepy really!

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More sites around town.

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Icecream van 

This window display attracted us. A little bit of Australia in the Czech Republic.

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The Czechs certainly love their beer, putting most Australians to shame. Tonight there was a beer festival on with 30 plus different beer vendors selling copious quantities.

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I particularly liked the name of this beer. Terrible photo of Tony but really I like to think that he is one…..

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The highlight for me was Mr Peltek from Ukraine. This guy was so talented with his guitar skills and singing voice. He was brilliant and I could have listened to him for ages as he belted out well known hits.  I popped some money into his guitar case and felt it should be full given how many people were so obviously enjoying his entertainment.

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Walking back to the hotel, the grimace on this guys face amused me.

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Back at our hotel, the square has emptied somewhat.

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With the final view from our room.

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Todays route. We ended up in Brno, just does not show it.

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So tonight we plot and decide what tomorrow will bring. We have a rough idea, but you will have to wait and see!!

Ooroo

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Blowing in the wind!

I woke very early to the sound of wind. Bugger! I got up and stuck my head out the window trying to work out the orientation of the house. Bugger…it was an easterly!

I climbed back into bed but slept restlessly as I knew it was not going to be a walk in the park kind of day.

After breakfast we bade our farewells and hit the road.

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All geared up and ready to roll

This is the route we took today. When I checked the forecast in the morning it was for 25-35 mph ( not km/h) in the morning easterly direction, changing to up to 50mph in the afternoon.  Bugger! As can be seen from our route, we were heading in an east to,south easterly direction.

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Today was the hardest day I have ever done in a bike, regardless of distance.

We rode a total of 174 km incredibly slowly due to the wind. I was pedalling downhill and doing 15 kmh on a 3 percent decline. On the flats I was lucky to get 10-12 kmh in the worst winds.

We also climbed just over 1600 metres.

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The wind was in our face all day, without reprieve. I’ve not experienced such unrelenting wind before as often you change direction or the wind settles down.

It is difficult to picture wind but in the photo below, you can see the dirt being whipped off the farm land.

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We rode through a number of charming villages.

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One a variety of surfaces.

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Taking any opportunity to draft!

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Predominantly an agricultural region with the canola in flower. Canola is grown widely here as a form of bio fuel.  Apparently the Republic’s president has a financial interest in many of them bio fuel companies.

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Thirst was not an issue today, but we found a few of these drinking machines where you can purchase still or carbonated water.

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Service stations were the go today, as they had clean toilets and ‘food’.

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Probably our favourite town today was Limotsyl.

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Hindsight shows that we should have stopped here as it started to bucket down with rain just after for some 30 km.

We refuelled at a pub around 30km from our destination for much needed tucker. This also got us out of the wind and rain and in front of a nice wood heater. I had no idea what I ordered for dinner but recognised one word ‘schnitzel’. Obviously no Czech translation so,ordered two!

The downside to stopping meant we completed the last 20 km of the ride in the dark. That was a challenge as we only had our warning lights on the bike. There was a climb in total darkness between two villages. No lights, no moon due to the rainy sky. That was technically challenging as was the descent as there were toads all over the road. No pictures either!!

We were pleased to arrive at our accomodation only to find that Tony’s mobile was flat and we could not ring the owner to come and let us in. Half an hour later we were in, showered and went to bed!

Given tomorrows forecast it is likely we will tweak the itinerary as the strong winds are forecast for the next few days. A real shame, but nothing you can do about the weather but act safely!

So more photos from today that we liked.

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Ooroo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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We’ve arrived…to a traditional Czech Easter welcome

There is nothing glamorous about long haul travel. 4 plane flights later and we have arrived in Prague.

We were collected by my Zwifting friend Mirek and his daughter Eliska.  I spent a week with Mirek and his family last year.  Having me stay is his ‘reward’ or ‘punishment’ for ‘convincing’ me to ride in the 24 hour Zwift event last year!

We detoured via a higher part of Prague to overlook the city and see the largest sports stadium in the country.

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The stadium is in the background. The tall tower directly behind us in an air vent for the tunnel beneath us. Very tall!

Highest priority once in Cekalovice was putting the bikes together.  All appears fine and they have blended into their new home well.

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Sarka was busy decorating eggs when we arrived. It is an Easter tradition on the Monday here to have the decorated (hard boiled) eggs, which later get eaten. I was learning the finer art of decorating. Sarka teaches children at a primary school, (3 grades) and I can tell she is very experienced at this! I did not find it that easy at all!

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Straight into the Czech Easter tradition

Here are some of the finished products.

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I can see a Sharron Yaxley original design in the bowl!

The egg below was decorated by an elderly local lady.  After colouring the egg with a dye, the egg is carved with a pin head! Extremely intricate and painstaking!

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We wandered into town via the river for dinner.  I have swapped my mode of transport.  Scooter it is….although I am not ambidextrous, only being able to push off with one leg. I did manage to get the route onto strava!!

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Mirek is busy at breakfast building a wheel for his bike before heading off for the Easter Monday tradition.

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Easter Monday, I was told that ‘boys’ knock on the door and ‘whip’ the girls backsides with their canes.  I interpreted boys as pre puberty age male

I was wrong.  Traditional Czech welcome!

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The Czech Easter welcome!

In return, the children receive Easter tokens.  The men receive a shot of an alcoholic beverage!

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Amazing hand made biscuit art work

So with that, I will sign off and get ready for a ‘coffee ride’ with my Czech friends I rode with last year.  I think we might be heading to Podebrady, so Tony can experience the surprising water fountain.

 

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We only live once….

Charlie Brown once said to Snoopy, “We only live once, Snoopy”.  He responded, “Wrong!  We only die once.  We live every day”.

People often ask me, “How come you ride so much”?  “How come you travel so much”?  “Gee you have a lot of holidays”!   One even suggested I will be “crippled” by the time I am retired.

Who knows what tomorrow holds?  I do not have those answers.

I do know this – I have been to far too many funerals for people who died far too young – they had dreams and aspirations that went unfulfilled!

I made a conscious decision to work to live!  I am doing today what I may not be able to do tomorrow.  I get it that not everyone understands that, or agrees with me – but then, this is my life and not theirs.  I am fortunate that I have a husband who happens to agree with me.

We do what we want these days – and do not try and fulfil others expectations, as invariably, we fail!

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Yes, I know that I have physical limitations that make these rides bigger challenges, but I try to balance it by being as fit as I possibly can.

If I had a dollar for every time I have been told I could not do something, I would be rich!  Negative feedback tends to do the opposite and fire me up!

As a child I was restricted for many years after being diagnosed with exercise induced asthma.  10 years later I’m hanging off ropes in dark caves and sporting a wind surfer (that I was hopeless at).  I was bush walking carrying heavy backpacks and canoeing. I ran at track and field and cross country events.  Ventolin was a god send!

In my late teens, I was restricted after a skiing accident resulted in major knee surgery, taking me two years, and a lot of rehabilitation, to walk without a perceptible limp. I fluffed my way into the Australian Defence Force much to the horror of my parents.

I prolapsed two discs in my back as a young mum – and kept working despite the pain and did not take one day sick leave.  I have had pneumonia and pleurisy to an extent the doctors wanted me hospitalised, and I refused.

In my 30’s I  had an undiagnosed ruptured appendix (gangrene and peritonitis) for 3 days and played it down enough that the doctors thought I was not as unwell as I was (that was my closest escape in life…as I was told after surgery that I would likely have died within a further 24 hours).

After my fourth knee surgery, three and a half years ago I was told by my orthopaedic surgeon that I could not ride more than 5 km on my bike.

Since that day, I have ridden over 95 000 km. I’m now the leading female distance rider on Zwift globally (65,000 km).  In addition to riding on the roads in Australia,  I have also ridden some 10,500 km in Europe and  4,000 km in New Zealand.

Last year I broke a couple of ribs in Europe after coming off my bike on the cobbles in Switzerland and still managed to ride myself to hospital.  I then went on and did a further 1000 km through Europe. Most people had no idea about my broken ribs. Did it hurt? Absolutely!  I kept it fairly low profile as I did not want the travel insurance company to tell me that they would not cover me if I kept riding, or that I had to come home early!

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Rib pain or awful pasta?

Last year I rode solo 1150 km in what was a massive, personal challenge in New Zealand. Day 2 was Cyclone Hola with big winds and incredible rains.  I had friends telling me not to proceed. Did I give up? No!

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Day 2 solo trip. I have taken all my wet clothes off and all my dry clothes on…still smiling!

So I know I have guts and determination in buckets that is not always understood – but for me, it has been a survival instinct for some of my other life experiences and challenges (not the subject of this blog).

Reality is I know I am one of the tougher chicks I know (regardless of age) and I know what I have to overcome to achieve what others either avoid totally, or do more easily.  I know how hard I train!

My experiences show that those that criticise the most are often the ones who talk the talk, and never walk the walk.  To criticise is easy.

So the impending challenge is my biggest yet.

I thought Pas de Payrol, Puy Mary (Massif Central, France) in 2015 was my limit, with 3 km of 13% gradient near the top! I know I was cussing near the top!

Then I did London to Venice with even bigger climbs including Fluela Pass in The Alps (below).  A brilliant trip.

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The following year I tackled The Pyrenees (France and Spain) en route from Bordeaux to Barcelona.  The climb below is heading up Superbagneres.

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Last year I conquered Colle della Finestre (Italy) when I was riding with the Italy Bike Tours gang.  That is my biggest single ascent to date.

These photos are on the descent. The last 8 km of the climb is gravel. I am a nervous dirt rider so was unsure as to my ability to get to the top within the required time parameters (remembering I did this climb with 2 broken ribs). I did it with time to spare.  Check out the wall of snow on my right hand side, and a number of the hair pin bends (55 on this climb).

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This year Team Yaxley is undertaking what is a huge challenge, by anyone’s measure. Certainly the biggest for either of us.

4,300 km riding, 33,770 metres ascent, 10 countries, one month, self supporting.  That means we carry all our gear for the month including basic mechanical gear.  We do have the luxury of staying in accommodation with beds!  We have ‘rest’ days scheduled for Budapest and Split.

There are risks. Life is risky.

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The route – with the blue line between Split (Croatia) and Anacona (Italy) representing our overnight ferry transfer.

The countdown is on, and we fly out this Saturday afternoon.

Upon arrival into Prague, I have provided one full day rest for jet lag, particularly important as jet lag is one of the major triggers for my epilepsy.

Our first day is a mere 172 km (910m ascent) or so heading into the eastern section of the Czech Republic.  Day two is another 174 km (1540m ascent) taking us into southern Poland.   Baptism by fire.

By the fourth week, we will be in the Dolomites (Italy) and I have some unfinished business there – as last year we were unable to complete the planned day ride looping through a number of climbs.  Last year it was very cold and the decision was made to descend asap rather than risk pushing on.

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The descent down Passo Falzarego is the coldest I have ever been on a bike.  We sought refuge and hot drinks at this cafe.  I was so cold that I was having difficulty steering my bike through the hairpins.

This trip there will just be the two of us – no support crew, no riders we can cruise along with.  Based on my touring experiences to date though, we will meet people and create many new memories to share.

I look forward to sharing our adventures with you – and thank you for your continued support and encouragement.  It is humbling when I know how some of my ‘regulars’ look forward to each blog, including Tony’s Uncle Jim, and ‘older generation – young at heart’  friends Noeline and Margaret!

Ooroo for now!

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Papatoetoe

Our local copper Air BNB host got home at 2 am…we assumed…so we snuck out as quietly as we could so as to not disturb him. He has left us food out for breakfast but we decided to find somewhere in town…again, so as not to wake him.

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Town was rocking at 730am, and we found ourselves a nice spot to enjoy our breakfast.

Setting off up the hill out of Raglan the day was gorgeous. No wind, and a very rideable 18 degrees.

The day was a tough one to finish on. It was literally up and down all day.

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At times we had no idea where we were, but kept following our Garmin instructions.

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We were both really thirsty today and were drinking heaps. Water became an issue with no towns in sight. I noted a lady outside her farmhouse , so wandered in and asked if we could possibly have some water for our bottles. She was more than happy to oblige.

Another 30 km later, we were running dry and still had seen nothing open. We found a community hall so checked it out, and found a house with water coming from their storage tank.

We soldiered on.

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We stopped at this signpost as Garmin was turning us right, rather than following Highway 22. It was pretty warm now, and our Garmin indicated mid 30’s. We had some of our emergency food….in my case, pear and mango baby sachet!

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Here is Tony’s preferred baby food…..

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This is where I disagree with Garmin’s route. It took us off the highway up a bitumen hill…that’s ok…then turned us left onto a damn gravel road….that had the worst camber incline to date …it was so steep  loose and slippery…

Anyway 4 km later I popped out the other end.  It was a tad shorter than the highway but about 4 times slower….

We were hankering for more food and were very excited to see this sign as we were climbing a hill.

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An odd combination to advertise for a petrol station but surely they had cold goods. We were hot, thirsty and hungry.

$40 later….

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It was interesting to note the difference between diesel and unleaded. In Australia diesel is more expensive. Note the differential in New Zealand.

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Our accomodation is in Papatoetoe a southern suburb of Auckland chosen because of its proximity to the airport, and the start and end point for this tour.

Nevertheless we needed to negotiate a fair bit of built up humanity and traffic, complete with the normal offenders such as the dude who did a u-turn into the bike lane, or the other guy who sped past us to then turn left….we needed to break heavily to ensure we missed his side passenger doors…morons!

After 138 hot, sweaty, thirsty kilometres we arrived in Papatoetoe…

It is always mixed feelings I have at the end of a bike tour. Lots of memories, lots of hard work, great sense of achievement and accomplishment, but…it’s over!!

This was also the longest unsupported tour I have completed. I have done longer supported rides ( ie where someone transfers your gear, and your bikes are heaps lighter).

Tomorroe is another day and my kiwi friend Jacqui is putting on a bbq for us tomorrow, and friends John and Suzanne have invited us up to Snells Beach for NY…and have  Tasmanian champagne on ice!!

The bikes have been cleaned and in the process of being disassembled and packed for the trip home.

There they will undergo further work and upgrades ready for our next tour….in April we head to Europe for 5-6 weeks…..with our bikes!!

2018 has been a wonderful cycling year!

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Hairy foot backroads

Breakfast in Piopio was a bit of a flop. The milk in the kitchen had an expiry date of 20 December. There was cornflakes and rice bubbles and white bread…so we went with the latter and smashed left over bananas onto them, drizzling it with honey. Black coffee was the kick starter.

We knew today as going to be tough again, and that there were no shops for grabbing food or liquid for the 128 km, so we headed to the local milk bar to buy bottles of water and grabbed some nibbles.

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Ready to roll

This is the highlight of Piopio. The village green with a couple of murals.

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Our route today weaved around and was chosen as it kept us off the busy SH3.

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The first 21 km was excellent. Rolling hills and very quiet and peaceful. We went past the property where the Hairy Foot scenes were shot for Lord of the Rings.

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Climbing a hill, a short distance before the top was a car park and sign indicating waterfalls.

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We finished climbing up to the top of the hill and Then we bit the gravel…it went for 31 very long and slow kilometres. In addition we climbed 500 metres and descended about 200 metres.

Here is a nice and flat section.

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We had no idea how long this was going to last, and given  I was only doing about 11 kmh I was doing the maths and figured I may arrive at 9pm!

I have 28 mm tyres on my bike, ( it came with 25mm) Tony 32 mm. I’m just a tad nervous on gravel as the majority of my spills have occurred on gravel, mainly as a result of me braking at the wrong time! I have some nice scars to remind me.

The countryside was splendid though, and a distinct lack of traffic. I felt I was fairly safe and private stopping for a pee on the roadside…..however, I turned around and I seemed to have attracted attention!

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At the 52 km point we arrived at a T junction. To the left….bitumen. To the right ….bitumen! YES! Tony told me tostop smiling so much 😂

There was a little shed at the junction and we took the opportunity to have some food….a protein bar and a UHT sachet of baby custard! We also noted that one of the spare bottles of water has bounced off the back of Tony’s bike so a bit less water!

About 15 km later we found this shop!!! Fairly new, and attached to a house!

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So a ham and cheese croissant and iced coffee later we felt far more nourished.

Another customer asked where we were headed. I asked if there was any gravel sections? “No, not much” I asked him how many km were ‘not much’….his response was “ hmm…maybe 35 km”….

Groan! Then he recanted and said maybe he was wrong and there was none! Fingers crossed!!

Lots of climbing today – over 1800 km, thereby providing many views. Water in the distance!

 

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We got closer to branches of Kawhia Harbour.

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More hills.

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Finally we turned left onto the main road to Kawhia. Up and down, up and down and we came to this fence. Lost your bike? Might be here!

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We are now in a cabin at a caravan park for the night. We walked into town to check it out and had a great meal at the local pub.

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Low tide reveals the black volcanic sands.

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This image quite appealed to me, stranded on the black sands.

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The two sides of the totem at the local park.

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I enjoyed watching these youngsters having fun playing in the muddy creek.

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Two days left. Tomorrow is Raglan. More dirt, more hills!

So better get some beauty sleep!!

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Taranaki farewell

Today was to be a solid ride of 153 km so we ensured we hit the road a bit earlier today. We headed straight down the hill from our accomodation to the waterfront and turned right, to start our journey north bound for Auckland.

New Plymouth has a wonderful coastal walking/cycling track and we were to ride along it for 11 km.

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In the distance is the Te Rewarewa Bridge, constructed for walkers and cyclists.

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Shortly before turning left onto SH3, Taranaki revealed itself in all its majestic beauty. I was so pleased that we got to see it!

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SH3 was busy today. People were on the move! So we were quite pleased to have a short reprieve for 5 km or so. The gravel was quite solid and firm and passed by a series of farms.

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The biggest climb today was Mt Messenger, around the 60 km mark and back on SH3. By now the temperatures were in the high 20’s. For  most of the climb, we had a small verge of around 30cm, with an occasional wider bay for slower vehicles. At other times, there was no verge and we just held our line as tight as possible.

I breathed a sigh of relief at the top.

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The historic tunnel on the descent was very short.

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We motored on planning to have a break at Mokau. Just before climbing the hill to Mokau we crossed this river with a bunch of shacks along the waterfront.

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Further up the hill this is looking towards the river mouth, shacks just out of sight on the left.

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We spent about 40 minutes at a very busy cafe eating and drinking! We got chatting to a Swedish tourist who also cycles. He wanted to know how we had been coping with the minimal verges.

This was our last view of the coast before turning inland.

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We crossed another wide river.

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Entered another tunnel in Awakino Gorge.

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The temperatures were now in the 30’s and I think it is fair to say we are coping with the heat better now, having acclimatised somewhat. We are rocking some pretty rad tan lines!

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Another short stint off SH3, then 3 km back on the highway including a decent climb, and we were off the highway for the rest of the day. This last detour saved us 30 km of highway riding, and provided us a road that was winding, climbing  and ever so quiet!

At one point a goat ran out onto the road, and I swear it was chasing Tony…until it saw me and went bush!

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We were very pleased to arrive in Piopio a small town on SH3, although we arrived via a backroad. We are the ONLY guests at the motel and it is nice. Our bikes are out in the hallway just outside our room, our bedroom door is open, we have our cycle washing hanging out in the garden drying.

What the town does not have is anywhere to eat on Boxing Day. The local grocery store was open and for the first time in my life I had a microwaved roast lamb dinner! We then had a carton of custard and banana.

The only breakfast on offer are rice bubbles, cornflakes and weetbix. According to its Facebook page, the local cafe re opens at 730 am!! Think we will be first in!

So three days left…tomorrow is shorter at 128 km weaving around to Kawhia.

Stay tuned!

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153 km today!

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My favourite picture of the day.

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Lazy day

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Today is our one and only rest day. We woke up to rain, and the forecast was rain all day. Fortunately by mid morning the rain stopped. So we threw some Lycra on and grabbed the bikes to have a casual 17 km ride around New Plymouth.

We headed straight down to the water front and headed towards the port. A real mix of views.

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We checked out this rock….I minded the bikes whilst Tony climbed up.

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Back on the road we stopped to admire this view

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Back into town we headed out along the track we’ll leave tomorrow on. Some of the waves were crashing over the breakwater creating large salt puddles to ride through, thereby ensuring the bikes were cleaned of salt later.

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The only place open was Maccas, so we headed in for a coffee and muffin.

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Later in the afternoon we walked back up to the Pukepuka Park, where the Festival of Lights is being held to check it out by day.

This is the local cricket oval, extremely well maintained and looking like something made by the Mayans!

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Views in the park are very nice. It is extremely well maintained with a wide variety of plants.

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Heading back to town via the cricket ground, another view.

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In the wedge of vegetation we got a glimpse of snow clad Taranaki….probably as good as we are going to get!

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Over the road from our hotel we noted this sign referring to the church being closed due to earthquake damage. We went and checked the grounds out and learned this is New Plymouth’s  Cathedral and the oldest stone church in New Zealand.

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This oak tree was planted from an acorn brought over from England in around 1899. There are many old graves including men killed during the Maorie Troubles around 1860.

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So only about 17 km on the bike today…I know, hardly worth getting changed for.

Hopefully our bodies have rested adequately for the final four day fling back up to Auckland. Three of the days are long and hilly. Tomorrow is 150 km.

So ooroo from New Plymouth – next stop is Piopio.

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The Hobbit Hole

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Leaving our accomodation at National Park this was our view. How beautiful. The first 40 km was really pleasant, more so as it was downhill!

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We stopped at various points to take photos.

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Looking back you can see the mountain in the Tongariro World Heritage Park  we had left behind. The roads were lovely and quiet today.

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We stopped at the town of Taumarunui where I had camped with friends from NZ Cycling in January, on the banks of the Whanganui river. The town boasts a strong railway and timber heritage.

Of course, I had another iced coffee!

Taumarunui also signals the start of the 150 km Forgotten Highway, built on colonel bridle paths formed in the late 19th century.

The road is a natural roller coaster, with amazingly green vegetation and interesting geology.  New Zealand Police have apparently named the road as one of the 10 worst roads in the country.

I totally disagree. It is a brilliant road to cycle, with the exception of the 12 km unsealed loose gravel section.

It is one of the most scenic roads I have ever ridden. Yes, you need to be careful as there are big drop offs….but Europe is full of those!

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One of the highlights was Tangarakau Gorge. The gorge road is all unsealed and appears to have received a recent  spread of lots of gravel, making it really tricky to ride on.

We overtook a younger Dutch couple, also touring, who were really battling this section.

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Half way along the Gorge is the bridge, where there is a long drop loo, and where the tourists all stop. I was running low on water again, so Tony kindly went down to the river to fill the spare bottle.

The sign below signalled that we were in the Taranaki region. Great area that I also visited in January.

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Jazzed up loo!

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After leaving the base of the Gorge we battled a further 7 km of gravel. I wished I could do a quick bike swap and use my Specialized Rockhopper Pro, currently residing in Auckland. We will be repatriating this bike to Australia upon our return.

Sealed road never felt so good. Chaos loomed ahead….

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Another highlight of the Forgotten Highway is the historic Moki Tunnel.  Remember this road has two lanes….you can see me about to enter the  Moki tunnel in the photo below.

It is about 140 metres long, void of lights except the ‘light at the end of the tunnel’. Note the name above the tunnel entrance…the hobbit hole!

I pedalled as fast as I could through, hoping no cars would enter ahead, otherwise I would be off my bike and back flat to the tunnel wall. I quickly ripped the sunglasses off my head too!! 😂

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This is what the other end of the tunnel looked like…you can ‘see the light’.

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Moving along there were more rolling, lush, green hills.

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Finally after 130 km riding we arrived at our destination, which has supposedly ceded from New Zealand as a result of a dispute. You can have your passport stamped for NZ$2, but we did not bother.

One sharp turn…

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Then the Republic sign….

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…and here it is,Whangamomona! Bustling town…not!

Great accomodation is new units constructed by the hotel, with this being our views.

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The accomodation is twice the price of our average for all other nights…no wifi, no mobile coverage, no tv…but true country chillaxed feel like nowhere else.

We caught up with a local Tracey who three weeks ago opened up a curio gift shop “Dolly Gray” boasting craft items imported from New Zealand. She had a brilliant rocking chairs, but I reckon the freight would cost more than the chairs.

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This was my purchase. The wood is kauri and hand made by a 92 year old man from New Plymouth using dental tools. I thought it very sweet. The old guy even hand  makes the boxes.

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Day 8 of this touring trip rates as one of the best routes ever. Brilliant, and as a well known Aussie used to say ‘ do yourself a favour’! If you cycle, get on down here and do this!

Sorry this blog was delayed. No wifi does that!!

OOroo!!

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