Le Dorat

Great view out our bedroom window overlooking our hosts and her neighbours rear yards. Ours is the one with the pool, and our bikes are in the garage at the rear.

This is our apartment, very spacious indeed. I highly recommend staying at Maison le trefle.

Breakfast included bacon, mini sausages and black pudding cooked up by Frank.

Niamh and Frank
Ready to roll, saying goodbye to Niamh, who very kindly gave me an Irish three leaf clover magnet to take home.

The first 30 km was a bit of a battle with very strong headwinds. Only 4.5 km in we donned our rain jackets, sweltered and took them off as the big drips of rain disappeared. After 30 km the wind disappeared too.

We were conscious today of the weather forecast. Thunderstorms were forecast at our destination later afternoon, but as the day went on, the weather improved and just kept getting hotter and muggier.

Niamh had warned us that most shops would be shut by midday so when we saw this boulangerie we stopped for a coffee and snack. It was to be the first and last place open until our destination so a good call in hindsight.

The first part of the day was dotted with wind turbines.

Lots of hills today with the first part of the day being a series of gentle 2-3 percenters. the afternoon featured steeper and longer climbs.

Another typical village view. Today we went through many little villages, mostly very quiet and no noise anywhere.

Descending out of one village there are typical high stone walls.

A nice little creek system including a lock, in what we think was someone’s private backyard.

A cute church scene.

A renovators delight on the left.

Whilst we were on some busy arterial roads (D roads) we were always relieved to turn off onto the quieter local roads servicing villages and farms.

As we approached Saint Martin l’Ars we saw this lovely old chateau. Not sure of the history but it does look like it needs some work.

This made us smile. We presume that Romain and Audrey were married yesterday.

Another old church, no history plaque obvious, but it does look like there was a former large door in the bricked in arch on the left.

My favourite photo of the day is of the Viaduct de l’isle Jourdain. quite an impressive structure.

Church of Saint Gervais

Water was running low, no shops open, so we resorted to public toilet sinks as there was no ‘non potable’ sign. Time to put more sunscreen on too.

After 100 km we arrived in Le Dorat, a town of around 1500 people. We were too early to go direct to our accomodation so we did a cycle around the town scouring for dinner options. We found a bar open, run by an English couple. We ordered some cold drinks and sat and chilled.

The village has some interesting buildings and a link to Australia. during WWII the Germans occupied the local Dunlop factory keen for intel re tyre making. As a result the Allies bombed the village.

War time resistance heroine Nancy Wake had a resistance stronghold here, and after her death her cremated remains were spread in a local forest.

Some views around the village.

Many shop windows had painted images of sheep pertaining to their business. I quite liked them. Here are a couple of samples.

We headed off to find that church spire.

Voila! La Collegiale Saint Pierre. It appears from my translation that there was a pre existing church here around 940 AD. Something happened in 1080….but construction of the current church started around 1110 with the crypt and transept. There were major fortification additions in the 1500’s.

Much of the outside of the church is covered with scaffolding as they try to replace old timbers and the damaging effects of water. There is a fundraising campaign for more than 2 million euro to support the renovations.

I am always amazed in these old churches at how high the domes and arches are. The engineering all those years ago was brilliant. The amount of men over many years involved in the construction would have been significant.

One of the lead light windows
A very old door

Leaving the church we wound our way back up into the centre of the village via this pretty laneway.

In the 1500’s there were four gates to enter the fortified walled town. Today only remains, Porte Bergere.

Porte Bergere

This little electric car caught our eye. We watched lady hop in, with her child and drive away. The child was deposited behind the drivers seat.

Another day done, 14 completed now. We rode 100 km today and it is getting hillier at a bit under 1000 metres climbing. I zoomed our route out to show where we are relatively within France.

The next two days are a bit more arduous again. Thunderstorms are predicted shortly. We are hoping the weather blows over before we start.

Thanks for reading. Stay safe, smile on 😊

Hot and windy, Aussies and the Irish

You know that saying, you get easy you pay for? Yep, I remembered it too during the night as my back ached on an awful mattress in the cabin park.

We got up early and packed and headed off to leave the Island and search for food.

Below is a map of our route off the Island, heading out the northern side (as we’d arrived on the southern side).

It was nice pootling along the bike tracks without all the tourists weaving around on their e-bikes. We enjoyed the crisp air, passing by many salt producing ponds. Salt is sold at multiple places on the Island.

Nice smaller fortification
Grapes are also widely grown
La Couarde- sur -mer

Then we rolled into the main town on the island, Saint Martin de-Re and found a boulangerie. Nice views.

We had a nice unhealthy breakfast as an be seen here in the video.

https://www.facebook.com/tony.yaxley/videos/1812673198903038/

Interesting fortifications as we left town go back to the 1620’s and the Huegenots.

Remains of an old moat

Rivedoux plage is the last village. Posers!

Seagulls farewell
The bridge ahead
Getting closer

The bridge as I mentioned yesterday is 2.9 km long. It has featured in the Tour de France. Ritchie Porte did it in circa 4 minutes 30. We were a few minutes longer I am pretty sure 😝🙈. We decided it is steeper from the western end but who knows what is factually correct.

Once back on the European mainland we needed to stop and have my domestique inspect my e-tap as it was not changing between rings. I knew I would like my granny gears a bit later in the day.

Out came the tools and he played around, we rode the bike up and down the street and he fixed it. Tony told me that my bike had actually crashed to the ground at the caravan park in a gust of wind. 😢 it sports a scar! He thinks the issue may have been as a result of that. I am fortunate that Tony has self taught himself many bike mechanic skills.

Getting through La Rochelle was another pain in the butt. City shuffling, in and out of the cleats, walking across crossings, dodging everything.

We did stop in this central area as there was lots of old stuff! A few photos below.

This guy made mousse famous I think….chocolate is my personal favourite 😝

We were glad to eventually hit dirt. This track below was the scene of a near nasty accident with Tony and a young teenager on an mtb. A bunch of boys were riding through, runners behind and in front and he decided to flex muscle and overtake his friends with the sure fail way of looking at his mates rather than what is ahead. We both shouted very loudly and he may have received our first DH call for the trip. That is a river on the right and Tony’s default bail out.

It was stinking hot as the morning progressed. In Clavette I popped in to get a cold drink. This boulangerie does free samples of different items, so how could I refuse? I also got some froid boisson(cold drinks).

Adjacent to,the boulangerie was this oyster seller from Ile de Re. The lady pulled up in her car, bringing her own bucket. Scratching the bum helps I think? Curiously these oysters are not refrigerated. There is no ice either. I like oysters but I hate side effects if not properly refrigerated.

Surgeres was a busy town, and quite large. We stopped at a supermache on the outskirts for drink and bananas. We took a wrong turn in centre ville and found this.

Map of the old village
One of the remaining buildings
And another

The day was a scorcher at around 34C plus we had a lot of wind to contend with. Wind in front is hard work as it requires more physical effort. As we are not used to the heat we try hard to be conservative with our energy use to ensure our fluid lasts long enough to be replaced.

On the other hand, the wind helped to cool our body temperature. My legs were wet with sweat, not something I am used to in Tasmania. I have heat rash in patches as my body tries to adjust to the conditions.

We passed through an area of hundreds of wind turbines. Wind must be a frequent visitor.

We liked this scarecrow, on a bike!

Nice old church and cemetery.

Lots of great and varying signs warning of kids crossing the roads.

The afternoon was quite hilly, up and down. At the top of one climb was this old German bunker and wind turbines. An interesting mix.

Finally a few shaded roads in between climbs. By now we were stopping every 5 km to have some fluid to counter our liquid loss.

Tonight we are in Chef Boutonne, having ridden 135 km. We are only 400 km from the Spanish border….3 days away it our journey will take us east.

At our accomodation we were greeted by Niamh, a lovely Irish lady who has lived here for many years. She also has some friends staying from Dublin (Valerie and Ben) so it was great to sit and converse in English.

Cyclists touring I can recommend this accomodation. Good bike storage too. Will put pic up tomorrow of details.

We have an apartment on the top floor of her home that is huge, and includes a washing machine. So instead of hand washing our gear, it has been through the machine.

We went up the street to an Italian restaurant for dinner and I am now ready for bed as it pushes 10 pm.

Another day of adventure awaits tomorrow.

Thanks for reading, stay safe and smile on 😊

Being a goose….that comment is dedicated to Patrick Watson!