Beaune to Bourbon Lancy

A late breakfast saw us pacing our room waiting, waiting, waiting. Not so much because we were hungry but more because we were keen to get moving, particularly with the forecasted 85% chance of a wet bum.

It was a nice breakfast and were alone bar the young lady ‘serving’ and watching, as she had no one else to look after. I was very conscious to try and chew politely and noted no bananas would make it into our front bags today for mid morning snacks.

We grabbed our bikes from the locked garage some 50 metres down the street and hit the cobbles, slowly. It was a messy few km getting out of town but within a few km we were on a busy arterial road for quite a few km. However we turned off and entered a series of agricultural use roads in between various vineyards.

Proudly displaying my Trek badging as a Trek ambassador, with a lovely backdrop.

The vineyards were a hive of activity. There were workers walking up and down looking at their plants and agricultural machinery tilling the soil.

There were many of these vehicles on the road, which were really only one lane wide, so we would pull over so they could roar past.

Tony needed to find a loo, so we turned off into a village, found this little abode that may have been open for coffee? That is our preferred currency. Buy a coffee, use a loo.

They let him use the loo, but we could find no coffee! Freebie!

Back onto a wider road from the village, the vineyards had high stone walls. These walls would be maybe eight foot high.

This was randomly placed at an intersection. Whimsical.

Pretty villages dotted the area. it was really scenic and pleasant riding.

We left the vineyard are and headed back to canals! Another sign, but the main reason I included this is the bum shot…of my bike rear and jacket!

When riding we have limited storage space. My jersey pockets here have a smaller drink bottle I filled for additional liquid ( but too small to firmly sit in my second drink holder) and my gilet. By now it was 24 C and I was too warm, so off it came.

You can also see my rear luggage. Inside that black bag is my spare cycling gear, cold weather gear, toiletries and medicine, and casual clothes. Strapped to the top are my over booties that go over my cycling shoes if it rains heaps, plus my casual sandals.

The yellow dingle dangle thingy is something Tony made. As we ride, it flies around, hopefully grabbing the attention of drivers behind us.

I also have a Garmin radar on the back of my bag. It picks up cars a fair distance back, and alerts me with a loud beep, that also shows up on my bike computer.

A holiday boat moving down a canal. I think that kind of holiday would drive me bonkers, as it would take so long to move between all the locks.

I like the photo below in this village. I suspect that the Tour de France has been through previously. Note the markings on the road with the bike symbol. Bike riders are treated with heaps of respect in France. They are well catered for. Many people ride. It is great to see so many older men and women on their bikes, baguettes in the front basket.

A nice church we passed in a busy town. We got caught at red lights, out came the camera.

Another tree lined bike path

We rode through the village of Perrecy-les-Forges and found a nice place to stop, that just happened to have a boulangerie over the road. Salad bagel with chicken for lunch.

Our lunch spot

It is pretty great when you take a photo and the name of the town is in the photo!

Neuvy Grandchamp

Riding wise, we did get a little wet but not for long. There were two heavy showers that passed and the rain jackets came off.

We had our first dose of hills today too, more so in the second half of the ride. According to our Hammerhead Karoo bike computer, the longest was a 1.6 km climb at 3.8%. There were quite a few shorter steeper pinches but it kept us honest and added variety.

We need a few of these kind of days to get ready for the latter part of our odyssey where there will be plenty of hills.

After 115 km we arrived in Bourbon Lancy, a town with a medieval centre and history, as well as famous for its thermal spa.

Stolen, but pretty as.

We are staying a few km out from centre ville, adjacent to a lake. Bourbon Lancy is adjacent to the Loire, but we arrived in from the opposite side, so that we will note tomorrow.

On the map above you can see the river mapped below our finish (the black and white circle).

Question of the day – is from Alain, a Zwift pal who joins my Brekky and Brunch rides that I lead. He asked about the bike storage, how do I organise it.

The answer….a lot of research and communication. Once I complete mapping an overall trip concept, I then break it down into day by day maps, looking at where accomodation is available in towns that generally hold some interest.

I then look at various reviews, seeing if mention has been made of bike storage.

I make a booking, but I also write to each place advising that we will have two bicycles that need to be stored safely, and to please advise if this is an issue.

So far this trip, each place has had a specific locked area for bikes.

Other trips, I have been in charge of the debating team in a country where the language is other than my own. Generally, they either have somewhere or allow them in your room. I have never lost a debate.

I had one great discussion in Salzburg where the guy said to put them in their garage ( that was open 24/7), and that no one had stolen his bike. How much is your bike worth I ask? Very proudly, he said….250 euro. I cough, then I tell him what ours are worth…..he then says ‘would you like to take them to your room?😊

In areas where there are ski resorts, they use the ski room that is not in use. Others luggage rooms, or locked storage areas.

Ok folks, that’s it. I need some sleep as breakfast is at….wait for it….6 am! We also have a longer day ride tomorrow.

Take care, smile on 😊

Beaune

Breakfast was an hour later today – they cannot do it before 7 am ‘as the bread won’t be ready’. We pushed our luck and rocked up at 6.55 am. The bread was ready.

Upon leaving Besancon it was a slow crawl for the first two kilometres. Cobbles, traffic, pushing our bike across pedestrian crossings and then the fluvial tunnel.

Built around 1880 it is some 390 metres in length and runs underneath the citadel. It provides a very handy short cut from one side of Le Doubs to the other, remembering that Besancon is on a horseshoe bend of the river.

It was a crawl as there was a queue. Runners, cyclists, walkers. Once out the other side it was shady and a cool 8c. It was not going to stay that way.

If you are a keen walker, you can head to Canterbury in England via Francigena, an old historic trail.

One last look back up the hill to the citadel.

Following a mixture of the canal, Doubs and Saone rivers today there were many nice vistas. I love the old fortifications high up on hills.

The canal of the Rhine and Rhone came to an abrupt halt here, with a water turning circle, and tunnel going under the hill. I later checked maps, and on the other side of the hill there is another canal that joins le Doubs. There is a walking path through.

Peaceful waterways continued.

I’ve seen more canal locks on this trip than ever before. Many have a little house nearby where in earlier years, a lock keeper would have resided.

Tony fancied this bike, or was it the red shoe?

Shortly thereafter we detoured from our route into a village and found the smallest boulangerie ever. We made do😊.

Sitting and eating this was our view.

This was our bikes view

Wheat dominated agricultural crops today,

There has been a distinct lack of loos on EV6, but today, we found one. A hole in the ground for males and females. Got to love that splash back! Interesting rock cliff adjacent.

We enjoyed the shaded areas. The heat had picked up and for most of the day it was 28c. That is pretty hot for Tasmanians riding. My preferred riding temperature is 10-20c.

We were heading in a southern direction overall, despite our river meanderings. As the day went on a southerly picked up. It did make riding a tougher ask but ever so enjoyable in cooling us down.

We rode around the edge of Dole along the rivers edge. The Notre Dame church dominates the skyline. it was constructed in the 16th century.

A closer look, with the picture frame located a little further along the rivers edge.

I mentioned yesterday the Euro Velo signage. Here is a different one, advising what villages are ahead. There is mess on the sign, being fresh grass cuttings!

We had crossed paths today with two older blokes on e bikes, who had stayed at our accomodation. We tried saying hi but they ignored us.

During the day we saw these guys multiple times and they gave us nothing! We dubbed them, the two cranky old French farts.

Shortly after our last sighting we came across these green things. We had no idea what we were catching. They reminded me of linen vehicles that zip around larger resorts.

We did overtake them although as you can see there is not much room on their left, so we needed to give them a shout. They were pedalling these contraptions and we assume given their pace, they were electric pedal power assisted.

Damparis

We crossed over the bridge below heading into Damparis. We saw the two cranky old French farts. We got a half wave…things were improving. We kept going. They were sitting outside a boulangerie but we headed to the local supermache and grabbed basic supplies including a banana and water.

As we headed back to the river we were surprised the two cranky old French farts were still there. This time, they stood up and waved! We made it! We need to rename them!

Alas, we have not seen them since as we left Euro Velo 6 heading country and towards our next destination of Beaune.

The last 40 km was a bit of a slog into the headwind and it was seriously warm. Village after village in a predominantly rural area.

Our route into Beaune was excellent and minimal traffic. The last km was slow as we were riding on my least favoured surface, cobbles. The bike shakes despite the big tyres!

Todays route is below. We are now in the capital of the Burgundy wine growing region (so I read, despite not seeing one vineyard today).

There was a site in Beaune I was looking forward to seeing and it was the Hospices de Beaune or Hotel Dieu de Beaune, a former charitable almshouse, founded in 1443 as a hospital for the poor.

The original hospital building still exists and is regarded as one of the best examples of Burgundy architecture.

I did the self guided tour whilst Tony sat in the shade outside. It is quite extensive with 26 points of interest.

The courtyard from the entrance
The courtyard looking towards the entrance
The beautifully tiled roof
The Great Hall of the Poor where there is a line of beds down both sides
In the kitchen, I quite liked the tap!
The pharmacy had hundreds of original product bottles lining the walls

We wandered around looking for a dinner spot noting some other buildings.

I liked the paintings on this hotel
More nice ties

Then we stumbled across the Notre Dame de Beaune basilica where construction started in the 12th century.

It was seriously very cool inside offering great refuge from the heat.

The view from the rear
Another curious building

So we had dinner, wandered back and oh look, whose washing could that be?

Our room was upgraded to a suite. Those two windows are in our bedroom, but I am in a room typing this blog to the right, where we have a lounge room, and a second bathroom with the tiniest walk in shower ever.

Tony kindly being the point of reference for shower size relativity

124 km done and dusted today, 356 km in the first three days. There is an 85% chance of us getting a wet bum tomorrow as thunderstorms and rain is forecast.

Breakfast here does not start until 8 am! The look on my face must have been something as the guy said “well not before 7.45” so 7.45 it is!

Maybe the bread takes even longer to cook here!! Given we will be awake and up and about by 5.30 am it will be a long few hours….no access to our bike to get it ready either.

So until tomorrow, Ooroo and smile on 😊