Tough but rewarding day on the bike

A great ride again today, tough because of the amount of climbing. Rewarding due to the scenery and achieving the tougher physical effort.

Leading Passau we made our way over the bridge to look at the town and the raging rivers. The third river, Ilz, seemed calm and passive.

Initially we had been concerned that perhaps the cycle path may be impacted on the ‘other’ side, but there were no issues as the cycle path is quite high up. Lower walkways were submerged.

We found a mermaid.

We had wondered whether the cruise boats still operate during floods. We passed a couple tied up, buses off loading passengers and luggage and seemingly boarding.

Then we saw this one creating quite a bow wave as it fought against the flood waters. The boat appeared to have no passengers.

Even in flood, the Danube is in a beautiful setting.

Leaving the river, we turned left, and this is where the hard work started. Today we climbed heaps. This is made harder for us given the extra weight we are carrying ( luggage wise).

Here is our climbing graph. You can see numerous climbs, including two longer ones at the 20 km and 43 km points. The latter one was a mongrel!

In between climbs (you tend not to stop and take photos whilst climbing), there were lovely views. At the end of the first longer climb, there was a cafe calling our name to stop! It had quirky ‘art work’ predominantly made from recycled horse shoes.

We checked our data and realised then that we had a bigger climb still to do. Bugger.

What we did not realise was that we would be crossing borders into Austria. We thought we farewelled Austria yesterday. Austria was looking great, gentle rolling hills. Germany was just over a creek the road ran parallel to.

Then it got nasty. That second climb was tough. Still riding at tempo pace, the climb gave me a personal best FTP of 216 Watts ( previously 201 Watts) so I was really happy as I still had more in the tank.

At the top there was a lodge (no food or drink available until 2 pm, and we were not hanging around), and cute animals and wooden figurines. We had Euro on us, but out if Czech money hence our desire to eat in Austria.

We rolled down the hill and just like that we are back in the country where our journey started over 4 weeks ago.

Czech Republic was looking good too.

We stopped at a pub and had a bowl of goulash each. Very cheap and they took Euros! For 7 Euro we had a bowl of soup, a large bottle of frizzante and Tony a soft drink. Cheaper than Austria where morning tea was 15 Euro.

A few other bikes in the rack too.

Rolling along the afternoon was much easier.

We arrived in Cesky Krumlov to hoardes of tourists and cobblestones, so we walked the last km to locate our accomodation. Riding on cobblestones paved so unevenly hard, let alone avoiding tourists.

We are spending two nights here so we can have a good look around tomorrow.

Our apartment is very close to this castle.

Day 32, done and dusted. How time flies by, and wow, we have certainly covered some ground.

Todays map. I made it a bit smaller so you can see Prague. It’s within a few hundred km if we go directly. If the weather ho,de, Tabor may be next.

Thanks for reading

Ooroo

Passau

It was a great day today. The weather was great! Not too hot, not too cold. A headwind, but not too bad!

As the day rolled on, we realised just how lucky we have been on this journey that started one month ago now. The incredible rains had finally ceased but the consequences for many not.

Leaving Salzburg was somewhat easier than other larger cities with the exception of roadworks here and there. Reasonably quickly we were out in the country again. Small villages were the norm. We scouted around a reasonable sized lake, Obertrumer See and then Grabensee.

A few things caught our interest in the town of Mattighofen. That unusual building is the KTM Austrian bike manufacturer so Tony very interested given his racing past.

Unfortunately the cafe that welcomes bikers was closed, but we found another one not too far away.

My front disc brakes had been making some awful noises. Fortunately Tony is pretty handy mechanically and replaced them during our coffee break.

More rural scenes through agricultural fields, small streams, quiet roads, and the occasional village church.

A cycle route runs alongside the edge of the River Inn, the same river that flows through Innsbruck. You will recall that the river was in flood from the terrible storms in Europe in the last fortnight, that had mucked up some of our rides.

We really enjoyed the tracks although predominantly gravel. At least they had dried somewhat with no rain in the last day. The first photo is a lagoon that is off the River. There was a little shack like cottage.

My kids would laugh at the witch on the broomstick as I used to joke that I was a witch per the Roald Dahl book of the same name. It was one of my favourite Dahl books that I used to read to them.

Obernberg am Inn had a very impressive old market square.

We pulled into a service station for some frizzante! Not any ordinary service station as it was just off the autobahn, that seemed to be favoured by more trucks than I have ever seen.

The truck queue for diesel was three wide, 100 metres long. I was fascinated just watching. As we headed back to the river, we past multiple truck parks, where the drivers were napping.

Back onto the river tracks was much quieter and safer.

We reached Scharding, a very pretty village.

This was our last village in Austria, as we crossed the bridge here. The first photo is roughly the border of Germany and Austria. the second is looking back at Austria.

The village on the German side is Neuhaus am Inn. You can see the bridge we had just crossed. Note how muddy the waters are too. The river levels are high.

A few pictures of German villages. Look at that sky!

For our final fling into Passau we found ourselves on a wonderful forest trail. Up and down, challenging in parts, but ever so pretty.

We found our way into the Old Town reasonably easy. It is handy to use the river as your reference point.

Passau is famous for a few reasons. Its location is at the confluence of three rivers, the Danube, Inn and Ilz.

It is very old, first mentioned as a Roman provincial town. With the establishment of an episcopal residence in 739, the city life of Passau began. In the 13th century, bishops became rulers of the independent, small principality. In 1803, Passau became a Bavarian City.

After the successful conclusion of the latest round of ‘where can we leave our bike’ negotiations concluded ( in my favour….they are in the luggage room, not the garage as they initially stated!), we showered and started walking.

We stumbled upon St Stephens Cathedral first. Still open we wandered inside. It was burned down in the city’s 1662 fire and rebuilt by a famous baroque architect, and other baroque artists completed the stucco and frescos.

The organ in the Cathedral is the largest in the world, with 17,974 organ pipes and 233 stops. All five parts of the organ can be played from the main console, individually or simultaneously.

Next we headed to the Danube…..ah, there were issues. That is the cycling path we are due to take tomorrow!

The conjunction point of the three rivers was obviously closed. With the flooding of two major rivers, there would be only one way to see it.

Now this boat ended up reversing. It would not fit under the bridge.

I think the next two pictures are the only way.

A few other shots before we grabbed some dinner. The first is Fortress Veste Oberhaus, one of Europe’s largest preserved castle complexes. It would be interesting to visit but not on this trip.

Back at the hotel, I have been reading the news reports of the flooding devastation in Germany and the Czech Republic. Hungary has been bracing for the full impact and fury of the Danube, sandbagging Budapest. Three weeks ago we rode along the S Bends from Esztergom to Budapest. Most of that would be flooded as it was quite low lying.

Tomorrow we are due to ride on cycle path on both sides. We know this side is ‘unavailable’ and suspect the same for the other. Tweaking will be required.

Final photo. Check this guy out on his bike on the cobbles.

Todays route and chart.

Thanks for reading

Ooroo

We got lucky!

We got a little bit lucky today, and we are very happy about it.

Despite the dismal weather predictions, we did our whole planned ride today, all 103km of it! Whoot woo!

Looking out the window before breakfast this was the view.

Yes umbrellas were up, but the rain was light.

We went to breakfast, packed our bikes, walked over the bridge to the bike path to make the call. Ride or train? We decided to ride as it was more nuisance level rain and it was not particularly cold (6 degrees). We also had the safety net of riding within cooee of the rail line.

Our first goal was Wörgl, some 67 km away. If we had taken the train, we needed to change lines at Wörgl.

There was water around, and the bike track we took for most of today was a mixture of sealed and unsealed, the latter ensuring our bikes were filthy! So much for me cleaning them yesterday 😂😂😂

There were continual low clouds that made the mountains look somewhat mystical.

We criss crossed the flooded River Inn multiple times, using these wonderful covered bridges, for cyclists and walkers.

Churches, statues and picturesque villages.

Great carving on this footbridge and I loved the positioning of the church! It looks so eerie.

At one village we rode past a railway station. Needing to use a loo I walked through the station, down the platform to the ladies. I went in and here was a very strange looking woman standing outside the cubicle door. I asked her was she waiting, and she indicated no. I went into the ‘vacant’ toilet and shut the door. As I did, lo and behold a creepy man was hiding behind the door!

Now I’m not normally a screamer but hell I screamed! He scared the living daylights out of me. I told him to ‘get out’ and he did! WT????

I went and spoke with someone who looked official and they told me security were on the way as he’d already been reported by another woman. He was still lurking when we departed. Not sure what his story was, why he was behind a toilet door..he was not using the loo…he was in there hiding. Creepy dude.

Riding along…..

The sign said Bike Stop. So we did. What a great installation, complete with charging connections for electric bikes and a tube station. There was a similar one at the other end of the village.

The next village was Rattenberg, and it looked really cute. We did not detour as we could see half a dozen tourist coaches down the far end.

Rain wise, it totally stopped at around the 50 km point. We knew Wörgl would be achieved.

Arriving in Wörgl, we discovered a busy town that slowed us down heaps as we hopped on and off footpaths. We were both fairly dirty, so needing toilets we stopped at McDonalds! We figured they might not mind quite as much. No men hiding there either.

One Wörgl picture. The roof impressed us.

We turned right and entered a different valley to ride towards St Johann. So many views looked like picture perfect jigsaw puzzles. Austria is just so neat and tidy everywhere. The ride was more up and down as we climbed to a maximum of around 800 m.a.s.l.

Aside from the cute sheep above, Tony took a fancy to these cows.

Some of the gravel paths I was pretty slow on. More brilliant views.

About 8 km short of our destination we climbed and I found a seat! Beautiful place!

Another dirt section, and this one we climbed up was steeper. I pushed my bike up the loose gravel for that!

A clever guy had these sculptures outside his house.

Then our destination St Johann in Tirol.

We were both delighted with today. It was a great cruiser ride on a day that proved the forecasters as wrong as the pre poll ballots for the recent Australian election. We are hoping that our luck continues!!

Super impressed with Austria’s efforts with cycling. The trails (sealed and unsealed) on the whole, are fabulous. I think that we need to explore more of this country!

Tomorrow we are due to ride to Salzburg. Fingers crossed 🤞🤞🤞

Thanks for reading

Ooroo

Peter Sagan, I’ve arrived!

I wanted to show you our shower, photo taken from our bed. Yes, three sides are glass and you can see our bikes through the shower! The shower is part of the bedroom. I would not want to be sharing with ‘just a friend’ lol.

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After showering in ‘privacy’ NOT 😂🙈 it was off to breakfast. This is such a quirky hotel. You can see an old cash register and sewing machine, amongst a room full of eclectic knick knacks.
Continue reading “Peter Sagan, I’ve arrived!”

Cruising around Vienna

No view out the bedroom window today as we just look out onto the streets of Vienna.

A great hotel where you can borrow an electric guitar and bring it to your room and connect it to the Marshall amplifier and have a play! I am seriously tempted!

 

The plan today was to ride around Vienna for a bit then wander along the Danube bike path towards Tulln. We did just that and knocked off another 88 km in the process.

Some snap shots from around the city including part of the Hofburg, before we got onto the Danube bike path.

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On the matter of bike paths, there are some 1300 km of bike paths in Vienna alone. They are everywhere. They can be in the middle of the street in between two lanes of traffic heading in the same direction, on the side of the street, on footpaths and so on.

The drivers are incredibly considerate, patient and courteous where there are no paths too.

This morning was our second trip riding in Vienna during peak hour and whilst we were incredibly alert (often meaning one foot not cleated in, hands sitting gently resting on the brakes), we did not feel unsafe.

Back to the Danube, or Donau as it is known as in Austria. This is shortly after we joined the path. To the right is the Donau Canal, an offshoot from the main river. There is an incredibly long sliver of an island in between.

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There are a series of locks on the river.

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Here we are nearing the end of the island and the Danube becomes one mass of fast flowing water.

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There are many passenger boats with tourists cruising the river. One is heading downstream to Vienna on the fat side, and we are approaching a port on this side.

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At the town of Klosterneuburg sits this monastery perched up above town. It was established in 1114. It used to be attached to a town on the other side of the river. The Danube changed course during the latter Middle Ages thereby separating it.

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At Tulln we decided to stop for lunch. It is a pretty little town and one of the oldest towns in Austria. Originally settled in pre Roman times it gained importance as a Roman fort.

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Paying homage to its Roman history, is this statue of Marcus Aurelius, Roman Emperor.

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The Nibelungen Fountain  is where Attila the Hun supposedly proposed to Gudrun.

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After our picnic lunch on the banks of the Danube we headed back towards Vienna. It was 28 degrees now and I was hot!

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We crossed the river at this lock. It is amazing just how wide the river is.

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Two beautiful vistas looking back across the river.

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The Pied Piper story here intrigued me. It was all in German. Must research to see where Hamlin is in comparison to the town in the story.

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Found a bunch of roaming dinosaurs. Nice posterior view too, lol.

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Todays discovery route. We had no plans, we just rode.

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Tomorrow we head further down the river to Bratislava, capital of Slovakia. We are winging it and will find accomodation once there.

Ooroo 😊💪🚴

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Sunshine

The forecast today was warm. When we left Prague Moravska Trebova it had been 8 degrees Celsius. It got down to 4 degrees on the first day so to read that it would get to 28 degrees was a pleasant surprise.

Ah, yes but there would be a southerly wind. Of course, we were heading south as we had decided to pop into Vienna, 140 km away.

Beautiful looking out our bedroom window in the early Brno morning. It was 7 am and the church bells had just commenced.  The market was being set up.

 

A substantial breakfast, quick pack and we left Brno around 8.15 am, to contend with early morning traffic.  I am not a fan of cobbles, most people understand why.  I’m not keen on tram tracks either.  Here we had both!

Leaving Brno navigationally speaking was easier than anticipated. Once we had crossed over a plethora of railway and tram lines we were in an industrial area and picked up a cycle track adjacent to the river.

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For a section this morning we were on Euro Velo 9, a route that goes from the Baltic to Adriatic Seas, and one we have considered riding the length of.

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The first 50 km was really pleasant riding. It was warm with a gentle southerly breeze ( maybe 10 kmh). It provided a gentle cooling effect.

Again we were predominantly riding through agricultural areas interspersed with various sized towns and villages.

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It was mid 20’s by mid morning and we had left our lip balm on the floor of Mirek’s house, so we stopped at a chemist shop to buy balm and some sun screen. The view up and down the main Street in Zidlochovice.

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Leaving town this was our bike path.

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We crossed a small bridge over the river.

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The road started to undulate as we headed towards a large lake Nové Mlýny.

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We needed to cross this lake and head to the right hand side of the hill.
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Glorious sunshine – brilliant riding through here.
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Remnants of an old castle at the top of the hill.

The lake features a lengthy bridge crossing. You can see a small section on the far right of this picture.

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Riding through the small village of Horni Vestonice, we rode past many of these structures, predominantly constructed under the small rise.

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The village of Horni Vestonice. I was disappointed the icecream shop was closed!

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We had planned to grab some refreshments at Mikulov, a few km short of the border with Austria. Arriving into town we were surprised just how large and busy it was, with lots of heavy transport vehicles. We opted to stop at a service station on our side of the road, rather than cross into ‘centrum’.

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Best we could find in such a busy spot!

Quickly consumed a Mr Brown!

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Whilst it might not have been the best spot to sit, it did come with a pretty top view of Mikulov Castle.  The castle stands on a place of historic Slavonic settlement. The original castle was commenced during the thirteenth century, and the current one early 1700’s.

The Germans occupied Mikulov during WWII and upon withdrawing from the town, set fire to the castle. The local museum historical collection was destroyed as it had been stored there for safekeeping.

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Crossing the border was easy, as the checkpoint buildings were closed. Looking back,  the castle was still in sight.

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After a brilliant morning with no navigational issues, the wheels fell off the cart. We arrived in an area of massive roadworks associated with the extension to the autobahn.

Trucks seemed to converge at speed and were whizzing past is very closely, giving us the absolute heeby jeebies!

Extensive map consultation took us on a couple of longer, ‘alternative’ routes through agricultural land.

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Eventually one of our routes arrived at a junction where the highway and autobahn connectors met sans roadworks. We took the major arterial road and stayed on this route all the way to Vienna, as per our original route plans.

Stopping in Poysdorf we opted to have a more substantial lunch.

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Tony enjoying his lasagne

Poysdorf is quirky, with many statues around.

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Nice village

The southerly wind had increased in intensity and we were to have it in our face for the rest of the ride, adding a bit more of a challenge.  Whilst it slows you down, for most of the time, it provided effective cooling as it was now the forecast maximum of 28 degrees Celsius.

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As we approached the outskirts of Vienna, one final rest for the bikes at a supermarket whilst I grabbed some supplies.

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Vienna is a large city with an intricate road network. The final 20 km was quite slow with constant stopping and starting for red lights.

We crossed the Danube River as our accomodation was nearer the city centre. A few challenges finding our hotel as the street address differs to where it is actually located (on an adjacent street).

Great hotel, self check in (new one for me) and the bikes are in our room! They provide you with a portable device to take around town with wifi, phone calls free of charge. I am impressed.

Tomorrow we intend to cruise around Vienna and see what we find and maybe head down the Danube on the westerly flanks.

Today this was our route and elevation map.

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Thanks for reading and I look forward to letting you know what we got up to in Vienna where we are spending two nights.

 

 

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