An Adriatic Sunset

A brilliant day on the bike!

It was very cold when we prepared to leave Ljubljana this morning. We had our winter gear on. Here is Tony getting his bike ready in the laneway outside our hotel.

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One final look at the Lubjiljana River as we cross over to the far side.

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Some shots as we departed through the city, cutting through various squares to avoid traffic where possible.

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A few km out of the city was this ‘bicycle tree’.

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In the distance we could see the hills had some snow. I suspect some was dumped last night given how cold it was.

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Beautiful Slovenia scenery.

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We stopped to grab a coffee at Logatec, and as we left a cyclist joined us on the footpath. We started chatting and his name was Nexa, and he is from Serbia.

He is riding solo from his hometown in Serbia to Lisbon (Portugal). Then he might ride up to The Netherlands. Nexa has 2 1/2 months leave.

Nexa was also riding to Trieste, so two became three.

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Continuing through the beautiful Slovenian countryside we later realised we took a wrong turn. However, that turned out to be a blessing in disguise (despite the climbing).

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This is looking towards eastern Italy and I suspect part of the Eastern Dolomites. Look at that snow! We will be in the Dolomites in 9 days time.

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Climbing! There was a bit today with numerous pinches of 15 percent, and a nasty 19 percenter! Very short, but very nasty.

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As we were climbing we noted three guys in sleeping bags on the ground behind this car. It was about 11am!

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More picturesque scenes.

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More climbing.

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Another pretty scene.

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Descending with a small dusting of snow on the hill ahead. We ended up at about 860m above sea level, and the lowest snow would have been maybe 950-1000 metres above sea level.

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As we started descending there was a collective “wow” as we saw the valley in front of us open up, snow capped alps in the background. The descent was nice!

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We refuelled in the town of Adjovscina at the base of the descent. I can highly recommend the route we took between Logatec and Adjovscina for a challenging, wow factor ride.

We hit the road again taking a fairly direct line route to Trieste involving more climbing through lush forest and farmland.

There were numerous vineyards in the area and plenty of pretty towns.

The major afternoon climb was on gravel with only the switchback sealed. It was reasonably compacted and ok for us ( I have 32 mm width tyres, whereas Nexa was on the standard road width if 23mm, so trickier for him).

 

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We crossed the Italian border about 10 km before our destination of Trieste. It is an open border between the two countries.

Finally our first view of Trieste looking towards where we will be riding tomorrow, the Istrian Peninsula. Nexa will be heading towards the Venetian Plains.

It was shortly after this photo that we bid farewell to head to our respective accomodations. Nexa was another highlight for us today. He is living his dream and passion, something we are both doing, so we acknowledge and applaud him for doing the same.

Many do not understand why we do, what we do….it would be the same for Nexa. But, we get it!

As per a quote on Nexa’s Facebook page, “Don’t wait for inspiration, be the inspiration”.

Ride on Nexa! Be safe, and may the winds be at your back!

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We had over 350 metres to descend.  This is officially my slowest descent ever.

Pictures never show what a slope really looks like. This is 24 percent and crappy cobbles! I know it only looks maybe 6-8 but the Garmin measured it at 24 percent for the great majority.  There were two sections, this is the second one.

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Downtown Trieste where we used our bikes like scooters predominantly on footpaths as we navigated towards our hotel.

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Todays route and climbing profile. A total ride of 101 km.

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We wandered around the old town after showering and clothes washing.

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We had an average Italian meal at a restaurant with a somewhat incongruous name of C’est le vie…that was belting out Frank Sinatra’s New York, New York! Whatever!

An above average sunset greeted us as we returned to our hotel.

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We do not usually do selfies however literally everyone else was so we thought…why not!

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The sunset cast a lovely colour on this foreshore building.

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What a fantastic day today. One error in navigation took us down a path not heavily trodden. We really enjoyed it, plus getting to know Nexa.

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So as the sun sets on day 14 of our adventure. Ooroo.

😊💪🚴

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Ljubljana

A very cool start to the day weather wise. It was brass monkey weather. Another nice breakfast and it was off to the Maribor railway station.

A boring and stark station by most measures. We noted the train was delayed 30 minutes.

I was fiddling with my bike when this dodgy character said something to me. I did not quite catch what he said, and he repeated it. He wanted me to,give him money, for who knows what?

I suggested he go to a bank and he said he wanted me to give him euros. Why notthat would be far easier! I pointed at my bike and said, this is it! I have no euros, I need some too!

He really unnerved me as he stood there and just kept staring….Tony was some 10 metres away seemingly oblivious. He then turned his attention towards Tony. I took his photo as I pretended to fiddle with my iPad.

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Tony then noted him, as the guy started to check his bike out, so he promptly relocated to where I was. We both stared at him and he turned away.

We followed some other cyclists to the train. Despite it being 30 minutes late in departure it was there at the right time at least.

We fiddled about in the bike compartment, having removed our luggage to store where we were seated, two carriages down.

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A very quiet and not particularly fast train, obviously not the express as it std at many stations.

A couple of shots out the train windows.

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Rugged up in my winter cycling gear.i call this outfit my spider woman one.

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A few more views.

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Two hours later we are in a very, very cold Ljubljana. I had booked a hotel on my iPad, so we headed straight there.

These were called hologram stones, a modern art installation.

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First views of the old town looking towards Ljubljana Castle.

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The Triple Bridges.

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Nearly at our hotel!

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Here we are, a view out our bedroom window of the Ljubljanica River.

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With our bikes in our room,we changed to go for a walk.

The Ljubljanica River has a fascinating history, with historical artefacts  from the Stone Age to Renaissance period being discovered by divers.

A few years ago, a stonehead was found, later dated to 35,000-45,000 years ago.

It is estimated that 10,000 – 13,000 objects have been located and sold into private collections.  The Slovenian Government now require diving permits with various conditions attached.

Local tradition holds that the river was a sacred place, with treasure being offered to the river during rites of passage, mourning or thanksgiving for battles won.

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I took a fancy to this bear outside a shop.

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Beautiful chocolate Easter Eggs, looking more like works of art.

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A door to the Cathedral.  We could not enter for a squizz as mass was in progress.

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There is a hungry pigeon going through the food stored on the back of this bike outside the door to the Cathedral.

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We walked up the hill to Ljubljana Castle, which has a recorded history of settlement from around 1200 BC.

Some of the views looking back over the city.

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Statue in memory of the Peasants Revolt.

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A section of the castle up close. Popular for weddings and corporate events.

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Walking back down the hill.

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Across the bridge with locks, including the crocodiles mouth.

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Curious aspect of this bridge is the transparent flooring. Weird feeling.

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Pub on the other side trying to entice patrons.

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Looking across the river to the castle.

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The Franciscan Church

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Back to our room where our bikes were waiting patiently, overcoats flung on the chair. We do not have  lot of heat with us, but it is extraordinary how far we can spread it in one room.

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The plan tomorrow is riding from here to Trieste, Italy on the Adriatic coast. We are in mixed minds re route, so need to sort that out pronto. Hoping the weather improves!!

Thanks for reading,

Ooroo 😊💪🚴

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Do you have a kangaroo in your bag?

It was drizzling when we awoke. We knew it would be as we had been spending a bit of time checking various meteorological forecasts last night.  The next few days were not looking great, and in particular tomorrow was looking dismal.

We had capitulated between heading to Zagreb (capital of Croatia)  or Maribor (Slovenia, near the Austrian border).

We decided on Maribor for a few reasons. Firstly, the route looked safer for bikes and secondly it lined up with Ljubljana and Trieste, with safe card options available.

We had a brilliant breakfast with lots of foods we had not seen or tried before.

It was very cool (8 degrees C)  and lightly drizzling as we left Verazdin.

This village was about 10 km into our ride.

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We were amazed by the art work on the egg.

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This lovely lady ventured along with a lantern to place at the base of the statue. She told us a lengthy story in Slovakian about the lamp and statue, however not speaking Slovakian, we failed to understand one word.

We smiled. That seemed to suffice.

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I think the countryside is often lovelier with rain. Most of our photos today have a rainy haze.

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Upon closer inspection, that is a graveyard directly below the church, on a reasonable slope.

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We bid Croatia farewell for a few days. In the photo below I am waiting my turn to handover my passport to Croatian border control.

You may recall that when we left Slovenia and entered Croatia yesterday that both border patrol men were devoid of a personality.

Today was different. I handed my passport through the window, the guy flicked it open and smiled and said “Australian!” I smiled and nodded.  He then said laughing, “Do you have a kangaroo in your bag?”. I laughed and crossed my head.  He wanted to know where we’d been, where we were headed.

As I rolled forward on my bike, it was ground hog day, as he asked Tony the same thing. 😂😂😂.

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Some 100 metres ahead, we then went through the Slovakian checkpoint.  No chatter but I got a smile.

Here we are then, back in Slovakia. It is such a pretty country.

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We were on some really quiet roads now.

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Lots of forest everywhere.

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We came to a red light as the road was reduced to one lane.  Looking back you can see a massive crane and an old castle like building. Not sure what was going on there.

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We crossed the Drava River. It is quite shallow here, and you can still see the castle and crane, and Tony’s bike.

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The view looking on the other side of the bridge.

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As with many European countries, every village has at least one shrine.

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We have been quite amazed at the stork nests. As we watched these two, I was convinced they we’re statues as they did not move.

However, the town air raid siren started its awful sound and scared the living daylights out of us, and the birds moved ever so slightly.

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Another village shrine.

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We had ridden through so many quiet villages. Neat as a pin, and all had a penchant for growing grapes. This is a typical size and structure.

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Cutting through farmland I realised I had not seen any canola today!

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We then crossed a dam over the Drava, that retained most water in a large lake, and streamed into a feeder canal.

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The lower side of the dam wall
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The higher or lake side of the dam wall
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The lake
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The canal

We rode around the lake…

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Crossed over this bridge.

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We arrived at the very scenic town of Ptuj. We decided to have lunch here at a riverside restaurant.

A fantastic meal of mushroom soup and entree sized beef stew. Just the thing to warm you up on a cold day, as the temperature had not yet reached 10 degrees.

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On the outskirts of Pjut was this highly decorated church. The white is not paint, but a plaster like product.

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The next 20 km was like this. Pure magic.

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We had a couple of short steep pinches. 19 degrees pulled me up though…bit tough with the gear on the bike. 14-15 percent with gear is my maximum, for a short pinch.

So here we are now looking over the river at the old town section of  Maribor.

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We choofed off to the railway station as we made the decision during lunch (again studying the meteorological reports and weather warnings) to not ride tomorrow and play it safe.

We will train the 120 km section to Ljubljana.  However, we could not buy a ticket! Only one train per day allows bikes! Tickets are purchased ready for the 11.45 express service tomorrow.

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We are staying in a very trendy apartment in the Old Town. Our bikes are with us (cleaned them up first) on the balcony.  Very nifty electrically louvres to open or shut. They are shut to keep our bikes dry.

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We had a brilliant dinner. Dogs are allowed in this restaurant. The table opposite has a little pooch taking up a seat. It was an incredibly pampered dog! You can just see the little dog in the photo and on the floor is its pink water bowl.

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A brief walk around town after our meal….brief because it was really cold and I am wearing  dress…bare legs…brrrrr.

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Our route today.

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Today was what I love best about cycle touring. The scenery was magnificent, the roads quiet (except the very slow crawl with start and finish towns), lots of laughs and soaking in the countryside ambience.

A shorter ride of 80 km was welcomed after 320 km in the previous two days.

Until tomorrow, thankyou for reading.

Ooroo 😊💪🚴

 

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Three countries, four seasons

We awoke to a glorious sunrise from our cottage in Tihany. Certainly the position of the cottage provided a wonderful panoramic vista. 2DFCA488-5DCC-49C7-8665-01BAB66BDF14

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We were awake early as the ‘bed’ was not optimal. It was a fold out couch. When I booked this place we were upstairs, but the owner put us downstairs because ‘we had bikes’. I guess I assumed there would be a bed.

There was no breakfast provided here, no local shops opened offering food until 9 am, amd we had a 180 km ride ahead of us,

I had one sachet of powdered chocolate drink in my pack, so we shared that.

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Tony getting ready for the day

We hit the road about 6.15 am. There are many benefits at that hour, the biggest is that no one else is up! Cars were infrequent.

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Once off the peninsula where Tihany is located on Lake Balaton we turned left, and could just still see the lake.

An interesting note re the lake. One of my cycling friends from near Prague, Milos, wrote on my strava feed that Lake Balaton was one of the few places that Czechs were allowed to travel to during the Czech communist era.

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At the 25 km point we found a little village supermarket open. Another advantage of being up early is that all their fresh breads and pastries had just arrived.

Here we have more hi tech Hungarian military items.

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This one took my fancy
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Then I thought maybe one of these in the front yard could send a clear message to pesky uninvited door knockers?

Still the roads were quiet and we really enjoyed the first 64 km of our ride into Kesethely, on the southern shores of the lake.

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It is easy for guys to have a pee when cycling, but for girls it is harder. I needed to pee and thought I found an ideal spot. Think again Sharron! I have never, ever seen such a sign!

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Moving right along……I stopped about one km up up the road, no signs around!

Flags flying on this castle. I imagine there would be a wonderful view of Lake Balaton.

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We were becoming increasingly concerned about the clouds on our left.

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I was never going to get a clear shot of this sign as there was a school group there, selfies galore happening. They had luggage to one side, and I did wonder if there might be a ferry service operating from the nearby pier.

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Our last Lake Balaton views.

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We spent over an hour checking out Keszthely including visiting some local bike shops.

Time to hit the road, as we still had 116 km to ride.

Heading out of town the headwind greeted us. Progress became quite slow. The clouds were not giving us optimism either.

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We stopped at a supermarket for food, and this new bike appeared, all set for touring. Cardboard box and rope does it!

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An old guy came out and filled that box with chicken sections he had purchased. He looked at our bikes and pointed to the clouds, telling us what we were hoping would disappear! “Rain”.

Yes….we started spinning those wheels and stopped here to don the rain jacket.  The wind was whipping into our faces fiercely and it had become considerably colder.

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At the next town after this photo, it was pouring and we pulled over into a bus shelter to throw our weather proof overboots on.

We sat….and we sat. We saw the worst of the rain off under shelter. We still had 84 km to ride so we needed to get back to spinning the wheels.

The wind had ceased! We were riding through beautiful forests. We had another deer run across the road.

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Another village, with an unusual building. I think this was the local civic centre equivalent.

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More canola, because you just cannot grow enough it seems.

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Deer warning sign…

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These are our last Hungarian photos about 8 km before we crossed the border.

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No farewell from Hungary signs only this one Slovenia! That pulled me up as when I had originally mapped the ride to Verazdin CROATIA, Slovenia was not on the route.

Tony had remapped it and his version went through Slovenia. Ok….so we needed to ride through a wedge of Slovenia.

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There were some guards at the border crossing checking out a very dodgy looking caravan. We got waved through to a toll booth for the autobahn.  Straight through again.

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Here is our first Slovenian town.

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25 -30 km in Slovenia was enough for today and we arrived at a very serious border crossing needed to see our passports…..two control points. One for leaving Slovenia, the second for arriving in Croatia. Two scary looking dudes too.

Crossing the Drava river for a second time we have our first views of Croatia.

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We are now in Verazdin, Croatia. A long day but satisfying 180 km with lots of undulations, and plenty of weather challenges.

Car driver speed  has increased significantly since Hungary. Many are fast overtaking inappropriately.

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I decreased our route size here so you can see we are bearing down on the Adriatic region.

After showering and washing our clothes, we walked around town and were immediately impressed by the car free spaciousness.

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We enjoyed a lovely and very reasonably priced Italian meal next door to our hotel. Our hotel has a wonderful king size bed! A proper bed!

We will be rejiggimg our next few days plans due to bad weather forecasts in the region. 20 mm rain forecast and I think Sunday will not be rideable ( in a safe and enjoyable way).

Ooroo, time for me to grab some breakfast and hit the road!

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You can ring my bell

We were on the road by 8.30, heading out of Budapest on a series of bike paths, that for the most, followed the Danube. Progress for the first 10 km was slow, crossing many roads during peak hour traffic.

Bang smack in the middle of an industrial area were these cafes.

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For most of the day we followed a variety of so called bike paths. Here are a few of them.

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This one was pretty good
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This one was problematic
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Not too bad but could be better.
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Not too bad

Ah this one just did not exist! We figured the farmer had extended his crops over it. I did wonder what kind of snakes existed in Hungary and were they poisonous?

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We rode past this canola field, not through it!

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Progress was slow for two reasons. The tracks and the fact that today was all headwind.  I started to think that maybe our route direction should have been anti clockwise and not clockwise!

On the plus side, it was a very warm day so the wind provided a cooling effect.

Tony grabbed this photo on the fly.

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Lovely fruit at at shop we stopped by looking for water. She had none but pointed out the well pump, so we used that.

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This is an excellent bike path!

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We ended up at a mountain bike park adjacent to an arboretum.

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I was keen to check out the town of Székesfehérvár, but when we were on the outskirts, it was a navigational nightmare, lots of roads to cross, and a far bigger town that I had envisaged.

We did find an awesome cafe heading out where we stopped and had a great lunch and break.

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There I am eating my lunch

Tony was eyeing off the icecream, and yes, we did partake! They were dreadful!  😂😂😂

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Even our bikes were well catered for.

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Another 50 km on we stopped at a supermarket for supplies. We were taken with the quality of this shopping bike.

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Another impressive storks nest.

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Looking out for deer.

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An interesting statue.

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Finally we reach of Lake Balaton, the holiday Mecca for Hungarians.  It is a massive lake!

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Our destination though is on the other side, and we need to catch a ferry.  We can see it returning.

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Some views whilst we wait patiently.

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Crossing the Lake we were stunned by its beauty.

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A bunch of touring cyclists, waiting to cross.

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We had a few more km to ride before reaching our accomodation, at the top of the hill! Of course!

Our little cottage has the most incredible water views looking back across the land we had travelled today.  Today we rode 141 km! Headwind the whole damn way!

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One thing our cottage does not have is wifi! Hence this is a bit rushed as I sit and eat dinner at a local restaurant using their free wifi looking very anti social!

There is also no breakfast available, no shops or cafes open until 9am and we have around 170 -195 km potentially to ride! So we are having a very large dinner and intend to pick something up along the way!

We may tweak our destination tomorrow, depending on the winds.

Walking to the restaurant were these three wooden dudes!

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Todays route.

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The ascent

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Apologies for the rushed nature of today’s blog using the restaurant wifi!

Maybe tomorrow I will get better wifi!

The final picture is from the ferry crossing!  Hence the title.

Ooroo

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May Day

May Day is a public holiday celebrated in many European nations, Hungary included. We had no idea it was a holiday until we started to wander and lots of places were closed.

Not wanting to overly tire our legs with 20 km of walking (we have a big week of riding ahead), we decided to purchase a ticket for the local hop on, hop off bus.  That’s when we found it was a holiday as a number of the scheduled stops were closed.

We did a few different bus loops and noted the routes had changed too.  We just could not get to stop No 1! So we got off and walked!

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This church is just down from our accomodation at Batthyány square. We walked past as we were heading to the nearest bus stop.

On the purple route, this is Nyugati station.

 

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Crossing over Elizabeth bridge, looking downstream you can see the Castle. We were hoping the bus would head up to the Citadel (per mapped route) but no.

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Passing the base of the Castle was the furnicular. We decided we would head back there later to travel up.

Later I read that bombing destroyed it ( and most of the Castle) during WWII and it remained unrepaired until the mid 1980’s.  It is also the second oldest funicular in the world.

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We hopped off the bus here and walked over the famous Chain Bridge.

The Chain Bridge was the first permanent bridge constructed over the Danube in 1849, a year after the Hungarian Revolution. It connected Buda with Pest.

The bridge was blown up in 1945 by the retreating Germans during the Siege of Budapest, with only the towers remaining. It was rebuilt, and reopened in 1949.

szechenyi chain bridge

Looking back over the bridge towards the Castle, you can see the furnicular on the right hand side.

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Scanning to right hand side of the bridge, you can see the spire from Matthias Church.

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The following pictures show fairly typical local architecture.

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This edifice is at the base of the hill up to the Citadel.  We will ride past here tomorrow as we head out of Budapest…I think!

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Another view of the Castle.

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In frustration at multiple attempts to catch the bus to the main get off point for the Basilica, we walked again.

Many streets were closed, barriers installed, heavy security. Further on media were everywhere with multiple long arm booms.

We figured there was a race of some type happening soon.   We were hoping bikes but came across a range of vehicles on display.

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Dakar racing trucks.

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Not sure what type these were…they were not the F1 but looked similar.

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The ridgy didge Aston Martin Red Bull F1 were a little further up the street, ten people deep viewing them. We gave up!

A google search revealed that there is an annual ‘race’ held on the streets of Budapest for May Day.  Whilst there were barriers in place, we felt it would be more of a display as the course just did not seem suitable for F1 (or trucks for that matter) at any massive speed.

Nagy Futam, ‘The Great Race’ we later watched on tv in our hotel room. Max Verstappen was in his F1 Aston Martin Red Bull car effectively doing donuts on the streets of Budapest. Aussie favourite Daniel Ricciardo participated when he was a team member too.

Fighting our way out of the masses, we finally found the Basilica. This is the rear view.

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Very impressive inside. Construction was predominantly mid 1800’s.

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This is from the front of the Basilica.

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Wandering back over the Chain Bridge…..

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What a coloutful bike!

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We ttavelled by furnicular up to the Castle precinct.

Can you see the real bird on the metal bird?

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The next few photos are of various aspects within the Castle grounds.  The Castle hosts both an art gallery and museum.

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We have had enough of this tourist game and want to ride our bikes! Heading back down the levels…..

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Looking towards the Citadel.

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Near the steps to the descending furnicular.

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On road level we took a fancy to these motorised scooters.

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Budapest is a vibrant city with some great architecture and of course, the Danube. Notwithstanding, we are really looking forward to tomorrow and escaping the density and big city crowds.  Rest days are all very well but we hanker to continue our cycling odyssey.

For dinner we visited a local pancake parlour where you can have a sweet or savoury pancake for around 400 huff.  That equates to $2.25 aud.

We intend to have an early night so we can be at breakfast early, and hopefully be on the road by 7.30 am.

So it is goodnight from me and I will leave you with this fantastic evening view of the Hungarian Parliament. I took this over the road from our hotel.  Magical vision.

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Three capital cities, four days riding

I have been trying to think where else in the world you could ride your bike for four days and pass through the capital cities of three countries? There are not many.  The Hague,  Brussels and Luxemburg  jumped out as a possibility.

The other one is what we were about to do. Today we were riding to Budapest.

This is our route.

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Before leaving Esztergom this was the view out our bedroom window. Yes another room with a view….a glimpse of the Basilica.

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Leaving the city via cobblestones ( eek), we joined the Danube bike path for some distance. Well constructed and part of the Euro Velo route 6 route.

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About 8 km out of Esztergom we stopped at this little beach on the Danube. We were struck by the beauty and solitude.

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Dipping my front wheel into the Danube

It would be a wonderful spot to camp and have a little campfire.

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Just out of Basaharc we arrived at a ferry crossing.  The ferry was on the other side (Szob)  and running late according to a Polish gentlemen waiting with his car.

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It was a great thing to do, and we admired the view. It was so serene.

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Also on board the ferry were a group of Germans with electric bikes ( bar one guy). They were doing a four day ride, and also heading to Budapest.

They could not believe we were doing our ride not using electric bikes. We figured we would see them again on our ride, but alas we did not as we were making faster progress.

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A large passenger boat was heading downstream. You could see the passengers watching from their cabins or seated on the top deck.

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The route from hereon in was a mixed bag. Roads, footpaths, bike paths, cobblestones, sealed and unsealed tracks were all used.

Below is another great section of sealed bike path. Others were twisted and knotted lumps of tree roots. In one town we were on a footpath and the rubbish bins were out for collection so we were weaving all around avoiding the potholes and wheels bins.

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On the far side we noted a castle high on the hill.

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A closer up view.

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There were numerous jetties with private boats.

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A cyclist fishing. Feel the serenity!

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We stopped at Nagymaros for coffee as we were making good time and needed to ensure we did not get to our hotel until after the check in time of 2 pm.

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This is the statue we gazed at whilst sipping our coffee.  Fierce looking chap.

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A second ferry crossing was required when we reached Vac to cross us back over a branch of the Danube.

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Looking back towards Vac.

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The ferry actually crossed to a very large island bang smack in the middle of the Danube. I was quite surprised just how large the island was with numerous villages and a bus service.  I could well  the flat island floods with two branches of the Danube encapsulating it.

Time for a banana that I had faithfully carried from breakfast.

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Just cruising.

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Famous signage.  Our route followed part thereof.

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The town of Szentendre was humming with tourists but we cruised through.

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On the outskirts of Budapest we rode around what appeared to be an abandoned military base. Many tall sentry posts and plentiful barbed wire.

Here we have the latest Hungarian Army transport vehicles.

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Perhaps this one is more your style?

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After some giggling/admiring the trucks we read the sign on the wall behind the truck.

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Top secret!!! Not anymore! 😂😂😂

We must have missed a cycling route as we somehow ended up on a very scary duel lane, high speed road with zero verge. One B Double told us what he thought scaring the crap out of us with his heavy handed horn.

We scooter along a slightly raised cement platform, hopping off to round power poles.  Eventually we found a way off and sanctuary at  railway station. Over the rail lines and we found a bike path.

At last we could see the famed outskirts of Budapest and we had survived!

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The Hungarian Houses of Parliament were designed based upon London’s Westminster.

Getting closer to our accomodation.

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Here we are.  We have excellent accomodation with a brilliant view.  This is our night view. We will aim for a better one tonight, but this is looking through the glass.

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Today was an 80 km easy ride.  60 km was brilliant – relaxing and serene.  Getting in a out of big cities is always very slow and at times tortuous, but that is part of the journey we are undertaking.

Tomorrow is a rest day.  Our first and we intend to get around the city without our bikes, and later in the day do  bike cleaning and maintenance.

Ooroo 😊💪🚴

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Esztergom

Today is our seventh day of this cycle tour. Starting in the Czech Republic we headed to Austria, Slovakia and today Hungary. Incredible that we have been on the road for a week already.

A longer ride of 150 km was scheduled, so we headed down to breakfast first thing to fill up.

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Looking out the window from breakfast it looked pretty bleak.  The forecast was a maximum of 11 degrees and some rain. Crazy spring weather after 28 degrees 2 days earlier. One bonus was that the winds were minimal.

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We headed off in light drizzle. It was a very cool and crisp 8 degrees.

The first 10 km out of Bratislava in peak hour ensured we got dirty pretty quickly with road grime flicking up. The roads quitened down nicely as the majority of traffic was heading into the capital.

The drizzle eased up after about 20 km and for most of the day we were on a mix of road and bike trails (sealed and unsealed).

The country roads with the ubiquitous canola!

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Further on we had a fairly long stint on a gravel/dirt/pot holed track. As we approached a farm house on our left, a dog shot out angry that we had invaded his territory. We both started upping the power ready to try and escape, when the dog, running at an adrenaline  charged full pace abruptly came to a painful, screaming halt.  He was on a chain and we were thankful. I am sure he has a very sore neck!

This town had a few curiosities including this wonderful storks nest, sitting perched on a light post adjacent to the local  church. We saw another one shortly after.

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E9DA4ECF-9BBF-4BC8-B308-8D0B9EBBDC06Then at the other end of town was this junk shop where you can buy your own stork or other ‘ornaments’ for your garden. Do they leave this crap, oops….I mean do they leave this ‘stock’ out overnight? I guess they do, seriously, who would steal it?

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I did not drink much water today but proof that I did drink some! The maximum temperature was 12.4 degrees. Underneath my rain jacket I have a wind proof gilet, a merino jersey and merino arm warmers.

F9FEC86E-26DB-4378-BE4B-119103800822Finally we reconnected with the Danube river. Here is one of a series of war memorials along this particular stretch.

E7135E42-D9FB-4928-9FBC-FA6FFEE76A25The border between Slovakia and Hungary is in the middle of the river, so the other side is Hungary.

3767AF22-4FB3-4ADE-A488-E4D9095D547DWe were back onto the bike path when it started to rain again! We had cleaned our bikes some 50 km earlier when we stopped at a service station. However, this rain provided a further clean. We deliberately rode through larger clean puddles for a ‘rinse’.

Bang the bike path just fizzled out! We had to push our bikes over to the nearest road.

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4D1F6A07-773A-45E2-8354-98011F8E8872Finally we got to cross the Danube and take some photos.  We had been able to see the Basilica for some time in the hazy distance. We were pretty impressed standing on the border of two countries and gazing in wonderment.

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04EB13A7-F5DB-47F7-8BCC-922B2C6E8279Our accomodation is only  few hundred metres from the Basilica. Our bikes are stored in the courtyard downstairs somewhat dirty but heaps better than earlier in the day.

Tony needs to replace the front disc pads on his bike as they were making some noise today but we will wait until Budapest to replace.

This is our 150 km route from today.

054BAB43-202C-4922-88A1-F64782A20B60After showering and doing our laundry we started walking.

3BB7E1BA-4097-4D95-86F0-4951CDC85642The old castle was closed, and is located adjacent to the Basilica. This photo was taken looking in from one of the gates.

86264937-C2BD-4ED1-B7DA-ABC99C031EF7A pretty impressive entrance gate to the basilica, although I note from the Roman numerals, it is not ‘that’ old, with the 1874 date.

37B03EDD-85CB-4A21-BC22-C58D1D57CF20Through the arch is this building.

38164960-2098-45B4-8C22-E4A2491C9180Then up to the very top of the hill is the Esztergom Basilica, otherwise known as the Cathedral of Our Lady Assumption and Saint Adalbert.

The historical heritage of the cathedral built on the Castle Hill of Esztergom dates back over a thousand years.

Following the conquest and the settlement of the Hungarians, Prince Géza ordered a Church to be built on this site next to his palace.

The young king, the founder of the state, was crowned here at Christmas 1000 with the crown sent by Pope Sylvester II.

It was King Stephen who set up the organisation of the Hungarian Church. Accordingly, in line with his intention, the construction of a cathedral began, with the purpose of making it head church of the country.

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3812E9D5-74FF-4071-B369-48D9521DDEB3The photo below shows the (netted) dome, the Sanctuary and High Alterpiece. The High Alterpiece is the largest in the world painted on a single piece of canvas (13.5 x 6.6 metres). The work is of Michelangelo Grigoletti, based on Titian’s well known work, The Assumption, which can be seen in Venice.

FCE8C38B-476C-4533-80C8-A345EB008B06The organ was first played here in 1856 in the presence of the famous Hungarian composer Ferenc Liszt. Renovation works commenced in the 1970s and are continuing.

It always amazes me.  Catholic Churches are lavish, but their seating is barbaric!

A4C11098-2E1A-4DCD-A0A0-D471DC3133B4Tony captured some great shots overlooking the Danube, Esztergom and Slovakia.

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188891BA-9171-4C2A-80AF-7C1E5088F47DWalking back down the hill is this statue near the castle.

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In town looking for a bank to grab some local currency.

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No bank yet but what a classic bike.  Totally rusty yet it’s owner has it chained so it cannot be stolen. I have never seen such a rusty bike.

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We found a bank and feeling rich with 50,000 florin to our name! Walking back we noted a cappuccino costs 550!

We saw St Stephens perched high on another hill.

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Then this old Roman milestone plinth.

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We had been recommended to eat dinner next door at the restaurant. It offered a range of Hungarian cuisine including a large range of catfish, knuckle and frog dishes.  There was a rooster manhood soup (🤷‍♀️🤔).

We ummed and aahed and I realised that it seemed somewhat incongruous that Olivia Newton John and John Travolta were belting out their well known Grease hit!

We both settled on a venison stew with ‘potato dumplings’.  I thought they might be like the Czech dumplings but no, they were potato croquettes! The dish was tasty though with a bit of a kick.

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That’s it for today folks. Tomorrow we ride further down the river trails to Budapest. An easy day of around 80 km.

Thanks for reading and hug your loved ones! Today I learned that one of my Zwift friends lost his 13 year old son. Very sad and my thoughts are with him and his family.

Fly free Rhiley 💕

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Little Carpathians

Today we decided to do a looped ride from Bratislava and head north and cross the range known as the Little Carpathians.

Geomorphologically (what a great word), the Little Carpathians belong into the Alps Himalaya System and the Carpathian Mountains sub-system. The Little range is around 100 km in length.  Bratislava castle ( the one we can see out our bedroom window is the southern aspect).

The wind was howling when woke up. We checked the meteorological wind forecast and confirmed that it was seriously windy, and would be all day.

Never mind, doing a loop ride would surely provide a mix  of head, tail and crosswinds.  Won’t it?

Here was our route.

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We headed out following the Danube and wow it was tough going. We came across a triathlon race in progress and felt sorry for the cyclists.

We liked this bike rack in between the penny farthings.

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At Devin there is a famous castle standing on a massive rock hill above the confluence of the Danube and Morava rivers. The castle is part of the oldest history of Slovakia. Not having access to a drone today I have ‘borrowed’ a photo to show an aerial view (on a brilliant day!).

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This was our view.

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Heading up the road we spotted a cycle path a little ‘lower’ than the road. Hmmm! Cuss curse!

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Photos never do justice to slopes…it was steeper than it appears.

It was too steep for me to walk down with my bike. Fortunately my partner in adventure was willing to take it down. This is how I descended!

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Stop laughing all you alpha males! At least I got there in one piece!

I had noted whilst shuffling my butt down the slope these guys having a quiet fish.

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It is hard to picture wind but we managed today.

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We came across a dog competition and stopped to take this photo for a Victorian cycling friend Judith Cahill, who also shows her dogs.

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We were in quieter territory now.

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There were occasional small towns. This one is as we started the climb for the day.

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Climbing this hill over the range was a nice and steady 5-6 percent. The maximum gradient I noted on my Garmin was 6.7%. There were a few cars heading up and over but these were insigificant compared to the number of motorcycles screaming up like Valentino Rossi.

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Climbing
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Still climbing
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Nearly there…but not quite!

Now I am at top and this is what caught Tony’s eye. As a former motor cycle racer, some memories linger.

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We descended into this town. I liked the statue and fire station.

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On a bike path some 20 km from Bratislava we passed this critter. The third snake in two days.  Other non farm wildlife to date have been too fast but include one deer that ran across the road, two enormous hares and one pheasant.

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Somehow we missed a sign and did ended up in a very hilly reserve with lots of mtb bikes and hikers. One climb was 16%!

Very nice area though. We did ask a younger person for directions. One advantage was no wind!

The climbing graph today’s ride which was 106 km in length.

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An earlier night tonight as we intend being the first to breakfast at 6.30am. A longer day tomorrow as cross the border into Hungary, heading to Ezstrgom, around 150 km away.

Ooroo 😊💪🚴

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Peter Sagan, I’ve arrived!

I wanted to show you our shower, photo taken from our bed. Yes, three sides are glass and you can see our bikes through the shower! The shower is part of the bedroom. I would not want to be sharing with ‘just a friend’ lol.

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After showering in ‘privacy’ NOT 😂🙈 it was off to breakfast. This is such a quirky hotel. You can see an old cash register and sewing machine, amongst a room full of eclectic knick knacks.
Continue reading “Peter Sagan, I’ve arrived!”