Three countries, four seasons

We awoke to a glorious sunrise from our cottage in Tihany. Certainly the position of the cottage provided a wonderful panoramic vista. 2DFCA488-5DCC-49C7-8665-01BAB66BDF14

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We were awake early as the ‘bed’ was not optimal. It was a fold out couch. When I booked this place we were upstairs, but the owner put us downstairs because ‘we had bikes’. I guess I assumed there would be a bed.

There was no breakfast provided here, no local shops opened offering food until 9 am, amd we had a 180 km ride ahead of us,

I had one sachet of powdered chocolate drink in my pack, so we shared that.

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Tony getting ready for the day

We hit the road about 6.15 am. There are many benefits at that hour, the biggest is that no one else is up! Cars were infrequent.

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Once off the peninsula where Tihany is located on Lake Balaton we turned left, and could just still see the lake.

An interesting note re the lake. One of my cycling friends from near Prague, Milos, wrote on my strava feed that Lake Balaton was one of the few places that Czechs were allowed to travel to during the Czech communist era.

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At the 25 km point we found a little village supermarket open. Another advantage of being up early is that all their fresh breads and pastries had just arrived.

Here we have more hi tech Hungarian military items.

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This one took my fancy
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Then I thought maybe one of these in the front yard could send a clear message to pesky uninvited door knockers?

Still the roads were quiet and we really enjoyed the first 64 km of our ride into Kesethely, on the southern shores of the lake.

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It is easy for guys to have a pee when cycling, but for girls it is harder. I needed to pee and thought I found an ideal spot. Think again Sharron! I have never, ever seen such a sign!

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Moving right along……I stopped about one km up up the road, no signs around!

Flags flying on this castle. I imagine there would be a wonderful view of Lake Balaton.

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We were becoming increasingly concerned about the clouds on our left.

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I was never going to get a clear shot of this sign as there was a school group there, selfies galore happening. They had luggage to one side, and I did wonder if there might be a ferry service operating from the nearby pier.

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Our last Lake Balaton views.

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We spent over an hour checking out Keszthely including visiting some local bike shops.

Time to hit the road, as we still had 116 km to ride.

Heading out of town the headwind greeted us. Progress became quite slow. The clouds were not giving us optimism either.

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We stopped at a supermarket for food, and this new bike appeared, all set for touring. Cardboard box and rope does it!

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An old guy came out and filled that box with chicken sections he had purchased. He looked at our bikes and pointed to the clouds, telling us what we were hoping would disappear! “Rain”.

Yes….we started spinning those wheels and stopped here to don the rain jacket.  The wind was whipping into our faces fiercely and it had become considerably colder.

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At the next town after this photo, it was pouring and we pulled over into a bus shelter to throw our weather proof overboots on.

We sat….and we sat. We saw the worst of the rain off under shelter. We still had 84 km to ride so we needed to get back to spinning the wheels.

The wind had ceased! We were riding through beautiful forests. We had another deer run across the road.

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Another village, with an unusual building. I think this was the local civic centre equivalent.

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More canola, because you just cannot grow enough it seems.

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Deer warning sign…

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These are our last Hungarian photos about 8 km before we crossed the border.

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No farewell from Hungary signs only this one Slovenia! That pulled me up as when I had originally mapped the ride to Verazdin CROATIA, Slovenia was not on the route.

Tony had remapped it and his version went through Slovenia. Ok….so we needed to ride through a wedge of Slovenia.

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There were some guards at the border crossing checking out a very dodgy looking caravan. We got waved through to a toll booth for the autobahn.  Straight through again.

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Here is our first Slovenian town.

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25 -30 km in Slovenia was enough for today and we arrived at a very serious border crossing needed to see our passports…..two control points. One for leaving Slovenia, the second for arriving in Croatia. Two scary looking dudes too.

Crossing the Drava river for a second time we have our first views of Croatia.

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We are now in Verazdin, Croatia. A long day but satisfying 180 km with lots of undulations, and plenty of weather challenges.

Car driver speed  has increased significantly since Hungary. Many are fast overtaking inappropriately.

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I decreased our route size here so you can see we are bearing down on the Adriatic region.

After showering and washing our clothes, we walked around town and were immediately impressed by the car free spaciousness.

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We enjoyed a lovely and very reasonably priced Italian meal next door to our hotel. Our hotel has a wonderful king size bed! A proper bed!

We will be rejiggimg our next few days plans due to bad weather forecasts in the region. 20 mm rain forecast and I think Sunday will not be rideable ( in a safe and enjoyable way).

Ooroo, time for me to grab some breakfast and hit the road!

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You can ring my bell

We were on the road by 8.30, heading out of Budapest on a series of bike paths, that for the most, followed the Danube. Progress for the first 10 km was slow, crossing many roads during peak hour traffic.

Bang smack in the middle of an industrial area were these cafes.

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For most of the day we followed a variety of so called bike paths. Here are a few of them.

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This one was pretty good
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This one was problematic
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Not too bad but could be better.
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Not too bad

Ah this one just did not exist! We figured the farmer had extended his crops over it. I did wonder what kind of snakes existed in Hungary and were they poisonous?

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We rode past this canola field, not through it!

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Progress was slow for two reasons. The tracks and the fact that today was all headwind.  I started to think that maybe our route direction should have been anti clockwise and not clockwise!

On the plus side, it was a very warm day so the wind provided a cooling effect.

Tony grabbed this photo on the fly.

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Lovely fruit at at shop we stopped by looking for water. She had none but pointed out the well pump, so we used that.

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This is an excellent bike path!

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We ended up at a mountain bike park adjacent to an arboretum.

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I was keen to check out the town of Székesfehérvár, but when we were on the outskirts, it was a navigational nightmare, lots of roads to cross, and a far bigger town that I had envisaged.

We did find an awesome cafe heading out where we stopped and had a great lunch and break.

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There I am eating my lunch

Tony was eyeing off the icecream, and yes, we did partake! They were dreadful!  😂😂😂

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Even our bikes were well catered for.

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Another 50 km on we stopped at a supermarket for supplies. We were taken with the quality of this shopping bike.

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Another impressive storks nest.

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Looking out for deer.

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An interesting statue.

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Finally we reach of Lake Balaton, the holiday Mecca for Hungarians.  It is a massive lake!

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Our destination though is on the other side, and we need to catch a ferry.  We can see it returning.

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Some views whilst we wait patiently.

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Crossing the Lake we were stunned by its beauty.

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A bunch of touring cyclists, waiting to cross.

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We had a few more km to ride before reaching our accomodation, at the top of the hill! Of course!

Our little cottage has the most incredible water views looking back across the land we had travelled today.  Today we rode 141 km! Headwind the whole damn way!

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One thing our cottage does not have is wifi! Hence this is a bit rushed as I sit and eat dinner at a local restaurant using their free wifi looking very anti social!

There is also no breakfast available, no shops or cafes open until 9am and we have around 170 -195 km potentially to ride! So we are having a very large dinner and intend to pick something up along the way!

We may tweak our destination tomorrow, depending on the winds.

Walking to the restaurant were these three wooden dudes!

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Todays route.

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The ascent

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Apologies for the rushed nature of today’s blog using the restaurant wifi!

Maybe tomorrow I will get better wifi!

The final picture is from the ferry crossing!  Hence the title.

Ooroo

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May Day

May Day is a public holiday celebrated in many European nations, Hungary included. We had no idea it was a holiday until we started to wander and lots of places were closed.

Not wanting to overly tire our legs with 20 km of walking (we have a big week of riding ahead), we decided to purchase a ticket for the local hop on, hop off bus.  That’s when we found it was a holiday as a number of the scheduled stops were closed.

We did a few different bus loops and noted the routes had changed too.  We just could not get to stop No 1! So we got off and walked!

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This church is just down from our accomodation at Batthyány square. We walked past as we were heading to the nearest bus stop.

On the purple route, this is Nyugati station.

 

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Crossing over Elizabeth bridge, looking downstream you can see the Castle. We were hoping the bus would head up to the Citadel (per mapped route) but no.

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Passing the base of the Castle was the furnicular. We decided we would head back there later to travel up.

Later I read that bombing destroyed it ( and most of the Castle) during WWII and it remained unrepaired until the mid 1980’s.  It is also the second oldest funicular in the world.

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We hopped off the bus here and walked over the famous Chain Bridge.

The Chain Bridge was the first permanent bridge constructed over the Danube in 1849, a year after the Hungarian Revolution. It connected Buda with Pest.

The bridge was blown up in 1945 by the retreating Germans during the Siege of Budapest, with only the towers remaining. It was rebuilt, and reopened in 1949.

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Looking back over the bridge towards the Castle, you can see the furnicular on the right hand side.

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Scanning to right hand side of the bridge, you can see the spire from Matthias Church.

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The following pictures show fairly typical local architecture.

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This edifice is at the base of the hill up to the Citadel.  We will ride past here tomorrow as we head out of Budapest…I think!

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Another view of the Castle.

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In frustration at multiple attempts to catch the bus to the main get off point for the Basilica, we walked again.

Many streets were closed, barriers installed, heavy security. Further on media were everywhere with multiple long arm booms.

We figured there was a race of some type happening soon.   We were hoping bikes but came across a range of vehicles on display.

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Dakar racing trucks.

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Not sure what type these were…they were not the F1 but looked similar.

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The ridgy didge Aston Martin Red Bull F1 were a little further up the street, ten people deep viewing them. We gave up!

A google search revealed that there is an annual ‘race’ held on the streets of Budapest for May Day.  Whilst there were barriers in place, we felt it would be more of a display as the course just did not seem suitable for F1 (or trucks for that matter) at any massive speed.

Nagy Futam, ‘The Great Race’ we later watched on tv in our hotel room. Max Verstappen was in his F1 Aston Martin Red Bull car effectively doing donuts on the streets of Budapest. Aussie favourite Daniel Ricciardo participated when he was a team member too.

Fighting our way out of the masses, we finally found the Basilica. This is the rear view.

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Very impressive inside. Construction was predominantly mid 1800’s.

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This is from the front of the Basilica.

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Wandering back over the Chain Bridge…..

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What a coloutful bike!

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We ttavelled by furnicular up to the Castle precinct.

Can you see the real bird on the metal bird?

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The next few photos are of various aspects within the Castle grounds.  The Castle hosts both an art gallery and museum.

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We have had enough of this tourist game and want to ride our bikes! Heading back down the levels…..

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Looking towards the Citadel.

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Near the steps to the descending furnicular.

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On road level we took a fancy to these motorised scooters.

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Budapest is a vibrant city with some great architecture and of course, the Danube. Notwithstanding, we are really looking forward to tomorrow and escaping the density and big city crowds.  Rest days are all very well but we hanker to continue our cycling odyssey.

For dinner we visited a local pancake parlour where you can have a sweet or savoury pancake for around 400 huff.  That equates to $2.25 aud.

We intend to have an early night so we can be at breakfast early, and hopefully be on the road by 7.30 am.

So it is goodnight from me and I will leave you with this fantastic evening view of the Hungarian Parliament. I took this over the road from our hotel.  Magical vision.

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Three capital cities, four days riding

I have been trying to think where else in the world you could ride your bike for four days and pass through the capital cities of three countries? There are not many.  The Hague,  Brussels and Luxemburg  jumped out as a possibility.

The other one is what we were about to do. Today we were riding to Budapest.

This is our route.

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Before leaving Esztergom this was the view out our bedroom window. Yes another room with a view….a glimpse of the Basilica.

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Leaving the city via cobblestones ( eek), we joined the Danube bike path for some distance. Well constructed and part of the Euro Velo route 6 route.

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About 8 km out of Esztergom we stopped at this little beach on the Danube. We were struck by the beauty and solitude.

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Dipping my front wheel into the Danube

It would be a wonderful spot to camp and have a little campfire.

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Just out of Basaharc we arrived at a ferry crossing.  The ferry was on the other side (Szob)  and running late according to a Polish gentlemen waiting with his car.

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It was a great thing to do, and we admired the view. It was so serene.

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Also on board the ferry were a group of Germans with electric bikes ( bar one guy). They were doing a four day ride, and also heading to Budapest.

They could not believe we were doing our ride not using electric bikes. We figured we would see them again on our ride, but alas we did not as we were making faster progress.

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A large passenger boat was heading downstream. You could see the passengers watching from their cabins or seated on the top deck.

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The route from hereon in was a mixed bag. Roads, footpaths, bike paths, cobblestones, sealed and unsealed tracks were all used.

Below is another great section of sealed bike path. Others were twisted and knotted lumps of tree roots. In one town we were on a footpath and the rubbish bins were out for collection so we were weaving all around avoiding the potholes and wheels bins.

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On the far side we noted a castle high on the hill.

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A closer up view.

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There were numerous jetties with private boats.

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A cyclist fishing. Feel the serenity!

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We stopped at Nagymaros for coffee as we were making good time and needed to ensure we did not get to our hotel until after the check in time of 2 pm.

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This is the statue we gazed at whilst sipping our coffee.  Fierce looking chap.

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A second ferry crossing was required when we reached Vac to cross us back over a branch of the Danube.

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Looking back towards Vac.

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The ferry actually crossed to a very large island bang smack in the middle of the Danube. I was quite surprised just how large the island was with numerous villages and a bus service.  I could well  the flat island floods with two branches of the Danube encapsulating it.

Time for a banana that I had faithfully carried from breakfast.

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Just cruising.

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Famous signage.  Our route followed part thereof.

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The town of Szentendre was humming with tourists but we cruised through.

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On the outskirts of Budapest we rode around what appeared to be an abandoned military base. Many tall sentry posts and plentiful barbed wire.

Here we have the latest Hungarian Army transport vehicles.

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Perhaps this one is more your style?

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After some giggling/admiring the trucks we read the sign on the wall behind the truck.

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Top secret!!! Not anymore! 😂😂😂

We must have missed a cycling route as we somehow ended up on a very scary duel lane, high speed road with zero verge. One B Double told us what he thought scaring the crap out of us with his heavy handed horn.

We scooter along a slightly raised cement platform, hopping off to round power poles.  Eventually we found a way off and sanctuary at  railway station. Over the rail lines and we found a bike path.

At last we could see the famed outskirts of Budapest and we had survived!

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The Hungarian Houses of Parliament were designed based upon London’s Westminster.

Getting closer to our accomodation.

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Here we are.  We have excellent accomodation with a brilliant view.  This is our night view. We will aim for a better one tonight, but this is looking through the glass.

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Today was an 80 km easy ride.  60 km was brilliant – relaxing and serene.  Getting in a out of big cities is always very slow and at times tortuous, but that is part of the journey we are undertaking.

Tomorrow is a rest day.  Our first and we intend to get around the city without our bikes, and later in the day do  bike cleaning and maintenance.

Ooroo 😊💪🚴

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Esztergom

Today is our seventh day of this cycle tour. Starting in the Czech Republic we headed to Austria, Slovakia and today Hungary. Incredible that we have been on the road for a week already.

A longer ride of 150 km was scheduled, so we headed down to breakfast first thing to fill up.

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Looking out the window from breakfast it looked pretty bleak.  The forecast was a maximum of 11 degrees and some rain. Crazy spring weather after 28 degrees 2 days earlier. One bonus was that the winds were minimal.

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We headed off in light drizzle. It was a very cool and crisp 8 degrees.

The first 10 km out of Bratislava in peak hour ensured we got dirty pretty quickly with road grime flicking up. The roads quitened down nicely as the majority of traffic was heading into the capital.

The drizzle eased up after about 20 km and for most of the day we were on a mix of road and bike trails (sealed and unsealed).

The country roads with the ubiquitous canola!

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Further on we had a fairly long stint on a gravel/dirt/pot holed track. As we approached a farm house on our left, a dog shot out angry that we had invaded his territory. We both started upping the power ready to try and escape, when the dog, running at an adrenaline  charged full pace abruptly came to a painful, screaming halt.  He was on a chain and we were thankful. I am sure he has a very sore neck!

This town had a few curiosities including this wonderful storks nest, sitting perched on a light post adjacent to the local  church. We saw another one shortly after.

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E9DA4ECF-9BBF-4BC8-B308-8D0B9EBBDC06Then at the other end of town was this junk shop where you can buy your own stork or other ‘ornaments’ for your garden. Do they leave this crap, oops….I mean do they leave this ‘stock’ out overnight? I guess they do, seriously, who would steal it?

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I did not drink much water today but proof that I did drink some! The maximum temperature was 12.4 degrees. Underneath my rain jacket I have a wind proof gilet, a merino jersey and merino arm warmers.

F9FEC86E-26DB-4378-BE4B-119103800822Finally we reconnected with the Danube river. Here is one of a series of war memorials along this particular stretch.

E7135E42-D9FB-4928-9FBC-FA6FFEE76A25The border between Slovakia and Hungary is in the middle of the river, so the other side is Hungary.

3767AF22-4FB3-4ADE-A488-E4D9095D547DWe were back onto the bike path when it started to rain again! We had cleaned our bikes some 50 km earlier when we stopped at a service station. However, this rain provided a further clean. We deliberately rode through larger clean puddles for a ‘rinse’.

Bang the bike path just fizzled out! We had to push our bikes over to the nearest road.

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4D1F6A07-773A-45E2-8354-98011F8E8872Finally we got to cross the Danube and take some photos.  We had been able to see the Basilica for some time in the hazy distance. We were pretty impressed standing on the border of two countries and gazing in wonderment.

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04EB13A7-F5DB-47F7-8BCC-922B2C6E8279Our accomodation is only  few hundred metres from the Basilica. Our bikes are stored in the courtyard downstairs somewhat dirty but heaps better than earlier in the day.

Tony needs to replace the front disc pads on his bike as they were making some noise today but we will wait until Budapest to replace.

This is our 150 km route from today.

054BAB43-202C-4922-88A1-F64782A20B60After showering and doing our laundry we started walking.

3BB7E1BA-4097-4D95-86F0-4951CDC85642The old castle was closed, and is located adjacent to the Basilica. This photo was taken looking in from one of the gates.

86264937-C2BD-4ED1-B7DA-ABC99C031EF7A pretty impressive entrance gate to the basilica, although I note from the Roman numerals, it is not ‘that’ old, with the 1874 date.

37B03EDD-85CB-4A21-BC22-C58D1D57CF20Through the arch is this building.

38164960-2098-45B4-8C22-E4A2491C9180Then up to the very top of the hill is the Esztergom Basilica, otherwise known as the Cathedral of Our Lady Assumption and Saint Adalbert.

The historical heritage of the cathedral built on the Castle Hill of Esztergom dates back over a thousand years.

Following the conquest and the settlement of the Hungarians, Prince Géza ordered a Church to be built on this site next to his palace.

The young king, the founder of the state, was crowned here at Christmas 1000 with the crown sent by Pope Sylvester II.

It was King Stephen who set up the organisation of the Hungarian Church. Accordingly, in line with his intention, the construction of a cathedral began, with the purpose of making it head church of the country.

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3812E9D5-74FF-4071-B369-48D9521DDEB3The photo below shows the (netted) dome, the Sanctuary and High Alterpiece. The High Alterpiece is the largest in the world painted on a single piece of canvas (13.5 x 6.6 metres). The work is of Michelangelo Grigoletti, based on Titian’s well known work, The Assumption, which can be seen in Venice.

FCE8C38B-476C-4533-80C8-A345EB008B06The organ was first played here in 1856 in the presence of the famous Hungarian composer Ferenc Liszt. Renovation works commenced in the 1970s and are continuing.

It always amazes me.  Catholic Churches are lavish, but their seating is barbaric!

A4C11098-2E1A-4DCD-A0A0-D471DC3133B4Tony captured some great shots overlooking the Danube, Esztergom and Slovakia.

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188891BA-9171-4C2A-80AF-7C1E5088F47DWalking back down the hill is this statue near the castle.

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In town looking for a bank to grab some local currency.

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No bank yet but what a classic bike.  Totally rusty yet it’s owner has it chained so it cannot be stolen. I have never seen such a rusty bike.

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We found a bank and feeling rich with 50,000 florin to our name! Walking back we noted a cappuccino costs 550!

We saw St Stephens perched high on another hill.

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Then this old Roman milestone plinth.

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We had been recommended to eat dinner next door at the restaurant. It offered a range of Hungarian cuisine including a large range of catfish, knuckle and frog dishes.  There was a rooster manhood soup (🤷‍♀️🤔).

We ummed and aahed and I realised that it seemed somewhat incongruous that Olivia Newton John and John Travolta were belting out their well known Grease hit!

We both settled on a venison stew with ‘potato dumplings’.  I thought they might be like the Czech dumplings but no, they were potato croquettes! The dish was tasty though with a bit of a kick.

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That’s it for today folks. Tomorrow we ride further down the river trails to Budapest. An easy day of around 80 km.

Thanks for reading and hug your loved ones! Today I learned that one of my Zwift friends lost his 13 year old son. Very sad and my thoughts are with him and his family.

Fly free Rhiley 💕

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Little Carpathians

Today we decided to do a looped ride from Bratislava and head north and cross the range known as the Little Carpathians.

Geomorphologically (what a great word), the Little Carpathians belong into the Alps Himalaya System and the Carpathian Mountains sub-system. The Little range is around 100 km in length.  Bratislava castle ( the one we can see out our bedroom window is the southern aspect).

The wind was howling when woke up. We checked the meteorological wind forecast and confirmed that it was seriously windy, and would be all day.

Never mind, doing a loop ride would surely provide a mix  of head, tail and crosswinds.  Won’t it?

Here was our route.

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We headed out following the Danube and wow it was tough going. We came across a triathlon race in progress and felt sorry for the cyclists.

We liked this bike rack in between the penny farthings.

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At Devin there is a famous castle standing on a massive rock hill above the confluence of the Danube and Morava rivers. The castle is part of the oldest history of Slovakia. Not having access to a drone today I have ‘borrowed’ a photo to show an aerial view (on a brilliant day!).

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This was our view.

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Heading up the road we spotted a cycle path a little ‘lower’ than the road. Hmmm! Cuss curse!

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Photos never do justice to slopes…it was steeper than it appears.

It was too steep for me to walk down with my bike. Fortunately my partner in adventure was willing to take it down. This is how I descended!

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Stop laughing all you alpha males! At least I got there in one piece!

I had noted whilst shuffling my butt down the slope these guys having a quiet fish.

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It is hard to picture wind but we managed today.

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We came across a dog competition and stopped to take this photo for a Victorian cycling friend Judith Cahill, who also shows her dogs.

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We were in quieter territory now.

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There were occasional small towns. This one is as we started the climb for the day.

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Climbing this hill over the range was a nice and steady 5-6 percent. The maximum gradient I noted on my Garmin was 6.7%. There were a few cars heading up and over but these were insigificant compared to the number of motorcycles screaming up like Valentino Rossi.

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Climbing
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Still climbing
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Nearly there…but not quite!

Now I am at top and this is what caught Tony’s eye. As a former motor cycle racer, some memories linger.

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We descended into this town. I liked the statue and fire station.

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On a bike path some 20 km from Bratislava we passed this critter. The third snake in two days.  Other non farm wildlife to date have been too fast but include one deer that ran across the road, two enormous hares and one pheasant.

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Somehow we missed a sign and did ended up in a very hilly reserve with lots of mtb bikes and hikers. One climb was 16%!

Very nice area though. We did ask a younger person for directions. One advantage was no wind!

The climbing graph today’s ride which was 106 km in length.

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An earlier night tonight as we intend being the first to breakfast at 6.30am. A longer day tomorrow as cross the border into Hungary, heading to Ezstrgom, around 150 km away.

Ooroo 😊💪🚴

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Peter Sagan, I’ve arrived!

I wanted to show you our shower, photo taken from our bed. Yes, three sides are glass and you can see our bikes through the shower! The shower is part of the bedroom. I would not want to be sharing with ‘just a friend’ lol.

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After showering in ‘privacy’ NOT 😂🙈 it was off to breakfast. This is such a quirky hotel. You can see an old cash register and sewing machine, amongst a room full of eclectic knick knacks.
Continue reading “Peter Sagan, I’ve arrived!”

Cruising around Vienna

No view out the bedroom window today as we just look out onto the streets of Vienna.

A great hotel where you can borrow an electric guitar and bring it to your room and connect it to the Marshall amplifier and have a play! I am seriously tempted!

 

The plan today was to ride around Vienna for a bit then wander along the Danube bike path towards Tulln. We did just that and knocked off another 88 km in the process.

Some snap shots from around the city including part of the Hofburg, before we got onto the Danube bike path.

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On the matter of bike paths, there are some 1300 km of bike paths in Vienna alone. They are everywhere. They can be in the middle of the street in between two lanes of traffic heading in the same direction, on the side of the street, on footpaths and so on.

The drivers are incredibly considerate, patient and courteous where there are no paths too.

This morning was our second trip riding in Vienna during peak hour and whilst we were incredibly alert (often meaning one foot not cleated in, hands sitting gently resting on the brakes), we did not feel unsafe.

Back to the Danube, or Donau as it is known as in Austria. This is shortly after we joined the path. To the right is the Donau Canal, an offshoot from the main river. There is an incredibly long sliver of an island in between.

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There are a series of locks on the river.

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Here we are nearing the end of the island and the Danube becomes one mass of fast flowing water.

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There are many passenger boats with tourists cruising the river. One is heading downstream to Vienna on the fat side, and we are approaching a port on this side.

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At the town of Klosterneuburg sits this monastery perched up above town. It was established in 1114. It used to be attached to a town on the other side of the river. The Danube changed course during the latter Middle Ages thereby separating it.

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At Tulln we decided to stop for lunch. It is a pretty little town and one of the oldest towns in Austria. Originally settled in pre Roman times it gained importance as a Roman fort.

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Paying homage to its Roman history, is this statue of Marcus Aurelius, Roman Emperor.

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The Nibelungen Fountain  is where Attila the Hun supposedly proposed to Gudrun.

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After our picnic lunch on the banks of the Danube we headed back towards Vienna. It was 28 degrees now and I was hot!

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We crossed the river at this lock. It is amazing just how wide the river is.

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Two beautiful vistas looking back across the river.

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The Pied Piper story here intrigued me. It was all in German. Must research to see where Hamlin is in comparison to the town in the story.

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Found a bunch of roaming dinosaurs. Nice posterior view too, lol.

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Todays discovery route. We had no plans, we just rode.

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Tomorrow we head further down the river to Bratislava, capital of Slovakia. We are winging it and will find accomodation once there.

Ooroo 😊💪🚴

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Sunshine

The forecast today was warm. When we left Prague Moravska Trebova it had been 8 degrees Celsius. It got down to 4 degrees on the first day so to read that it would get to 28 degrees was a pleasant surprise.

Ah, yes but there would be a southerly wind. Of course, we were heading south as we had decided to pop into Vienna, 140 km away.

Beautiful looking out our bedroom window in the early Brno morning. It was 7 am and the church bells had just commenced.  The market was being set up.

 

A substantial breakfast, quick pack and we left Brno around 8.15 am, to contend with early morning traffic.  I am not a fan of cobbles, most people understand why.  I’m not keen on tram tracks either.  Here we had both!

Leaving Brno navigationally speaking was easier than anticipated. Once we had crossed over a plethora of railway and tram lines we were in an industrial area and picked up a cycle track adjacent to the river.

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For a section this morning we were on Euro Velo 9, a route that goes from the Baltic to Adriatic Seas, and one we have considered riding the length of.

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The first 50 km was really pleasant riding. It was warm with a gentle southerly breeze ( maybe 10 kmh). It provided a gentle cooling effect.

Again we were predominantly riding through agricultural areas interspersed with various sized towns and villages.

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It was mid 20’s by mid morning and we had left our lip balm on the floor of Mirek’s house, so we stopped at a chemist shop to buy balm and some sun screen. The view up and down the main Street in Zidlochovice.

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Leaving town this was our bike path.

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We crossed a small bridge over the river.

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The road started to undulate as we headed towards a large lake Nové Mlýny.

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We needed to cross this lake and head to the right hand side of the hill.
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Glorious sunshine – brilliant riding through here.
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Remnants of an old castle at the top of the hill.

The lake features a lengthy bridge crossing. You can see a small section on the far right of this picture.

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Riding through the small village of Horni Vestonice, we rode past many of these structures, predominantly constructed under the small rise.

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The village of Horni Vestonice. I was disappointed the icecream shop was closed!

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We had planned to grab some refreshments at Mikulov, a few km short of the border with Austria. Arriving into town we were surprised just how large and busy it was, with lots of heavy transport vehicles. We opted to stop at a service station on our side of the road, rather than cross into ‘centrum’.

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Best we could find in such a busy spot!

Quickly consumed a Mr Brown!

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Whilst it might not have been the best spot to sit, it did come with a pretty top view of Mikulov Castle.  The castle stands on a place of historic Slavonic settlement. The original castle was commenced during the thirteenth century, and the current one early 1700’s.

The Germans occupied Mikulov during WWII and upon withdrawing from the town, set fire to the castle. The local museum historical collection was destroyed as it had been stored there for safekeeping.

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Crossing the border was easy, as the checkpoint buildings were closed. Looking back,  the castle was still in sight.

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After a brilliant morning with no navigational issues, the wheels fell off the cart. We arrived in an area of massive roadworks associated with the extension to the autobahn.

Trucks seemed to converge at speed and were whizzing past is very closely, giving us the absolute heeby jeebies!

Extensive map consultation took us on a couple of longer, ‘alternative’ routes through agricultural land.

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Eventually one of our routes arrived at a junction where the highway and autobahn connectors met sans roadworks. We took the major arterial road and stayed on this route all the way to Vienna, as per our original route plans.

Stopping in Poysdorf we opted to have a more substantial lunch.

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Tony enjoying his lasagne

Poysdorf is quirky, with many statues around.

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Nice village

The southerly wind had increased in intensity and we were to have it in our face for the rest of the ride, adding a bit more of a challenge.  Whilst it slows you down, for most of the time, it provided effective cooling as it was now the forecast maximum of 28 degrees Celsius.

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As we approached the outskirts of Vienna, one final rest for the bikes at a supermarket whilst I grabbed some supplies.

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Vienna is a large city with an intricate road network. The final 20 km was quite slow with constant stopping and starting for red lights.

We crossed the Danube River as our accomodation was nearer the city centre. A few challenges finding our hotel as the street address differs to where it is actually located (on an adjacent street).

Great hotel, self check in (new one for me) and the bikes are in our room! They provide you with a portable device to take around town with wifi, phone calls free of charge. I am impressed.

Tomorrow we intend to cruise around Vienna and see what we find and maybe head down the Danube on the westerly flanks.

Today this was our route and elevation map.

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Thanks for reading and I look forward to letting you know what we got up to in Vienna where we are spending two nights.

 

 

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I changed my mind

One of the aspects of cycle touring is that you need to be flexible and adaptable. Whilst I had a carefully crafted route mapped out with supporting accomodation, health, safety and enjoyment come first.

We woke up and confirmed via meteorological sources that we would have a tough day heading to Rybnik with strong winds forecast. So we changed our minds and decided to head to Brno.

Changing your mind comes at a cost because there is a domino ripple with subsequent days routing but we would look at that once in Brno.

The accomodation in Merovska Trebova was quirky. An extraordinarily well appointed apartment right down to magnifying reading glasses and every conceivable toiletry possible.

The owner who had seemed somewhat inebriated the previous night (perhaps frustrated at our very late arrival) had been disappointed we would not drink beer with her.  Sleep was on our mind!

She scrubbed up early as we had requested 7 am breakfast and met in in the cellar.  Quite literally the cellar.

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Our bikes had been stored there overnight.

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We demolished a wonderful breakfast. This is all we left.

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Packed and ready to roll we headed into the village square.  It was a fresh and crispy 8 degrees. Very pretty little town.

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After riding at 8 kmh for 1.5 km on the cobbles we had found our navigational starting point. We were both cold as 8 kmh doesn’t not generate any body heat. I was glad to get off the cobbles given my history last year where I ended up with multiple fractured teeth and ribs riding on cobbles.

Today provided different challenges.  It was cold and the easterly wind still prevailed. Navigationally it was very slow at times due to a few different factors.  Weird and often confusing route selection by our Garmin app, blockages and a variety of surfaces.

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Wandering sheep and patched road, but beautiful area
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Nice meandering bike path

We were lucky to miss this fallen tree, it had only just fallen.  Ahead you can see a man with a chain saw coming to cut it away from the track.

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Blockages
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Solid dirt and gravel trail

My favourite sealed trail beside a creek.

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This is an example of a weird course route decision by Garmin. There was a 20 percent incline section, which is a push the bike up the hill kind of moment. We had to walk up and around this blockage too.

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We perservered with the odd route, inherently believing it to be wrong. We heard a big noise as we descended down this hill and had to get ourselves and our bikes off the track and lean back flat against some trees.

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The towns and villages today were again predominantly rural.  It was quite overcast for most of the ride hence the gloomy look.

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The Czech Republic has the highest density of castles per sq km of any country in the world.  Here is just one we passed in Letovice.

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Church building in the same town.

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Arriving in Brno we sat down in the main town square and booked ourselves into this hotel. They were so accommodating with the bikes.  The older concierge guy had been watching somewhat curiously. He disappeared and the lady at reception started telling me there was no room in the luggage locker…she was interrupted by this man who in Czech told her that he had rearranged the room and our bikes would fit in!  I was so excited and thanked him, but all he wanted was a hug! Sweet guy.

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After showering and washing our clothes we started to wander. In the photo below you can just see some of our clothing drying in our window on the third floor. A feature of our rides is ha going clothes to dry in prominent spots. It is like the Queens flag flying above her castles indicating her presence.

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The old church is interesting.  Originally constructed back in the 12th century it was rebuilt around 1400’s.  At some point the Swedish attacked the area, and the church powers decided to torch all the homes on the hill leading up to the church to keep the Swedish at bay. The fire was so successful and inconceived that it continued up the hill and burned the church.

It was left unrepaired and the Swedish had a second crack a hundred years later further damaging the site.  It was repaired/rebuilt in the 18th century led by a man named Grimm.  Interestingly his body was one of the many we saw in the crypt.

The crypt has 50 plus preserved bodies for viewing. It was a bit creepy really!

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More sites around town.

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Icecream van 

This window display attracted us. A little bit of Australia in the Czech Republic.

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The Czechs certainly love their beer, putting most Australians to shame. Tonight there was a beer festival on with 30 plus different beer vendors selling copious quantities.

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I particularly liked the name of this beer. Terrible photo of Tony but really I like to think that he is one…..

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The highlight for me was Mr Peltek from Ukraine. This guy was so talented with his guitar skills and singing voice. He was brilliant and I could have listened to him for ages as he belted out well known hits.  I popped some money into his guitar case and felt it should be full given how many people were so obviously enjoying his entertainment.

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Walking back to the hotel, the grimace on this guys face amused me.

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Back at our hotel, the square has emptied somewhat.

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With the final view from our room.

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Todays route. We ended up in Brno, just does not show it.

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So tonight we plot and decide what tomorrow will bring. We have a rough idea, but you will have to wait and see!!

Ooroo

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