Who booked our accomodation up the top of a nasty hill?

Oh that would be me….more later. Even Saint Hilaire is pointing his finger at me. 🪣

Today was a longer day completing 147 km riding from Bourbon Lancy to Sancerre.

With a 6 am breakfast, we were on the road well before 7 am. It had rained overnight as the roads were still wet. The sun was trying to break through.

Our first glimpse of the beautiful Loire River. I love the Loire, and we last saw it in 2015 when we cycled from Calais to Narbonne then across to Carcassonne, another great trip.

In a tiny village a little further on, boasting about three houses stood these seven carved figurines. They delighted me, particularly the first one earlier of Saint Hilaire. They are carved from trees that grew there.

Love these bikes! We were turning right and heading to Decize.

More pink bikes. The French are getting confused with the Giro. It is common to see pink cycling decorations in Italy as pink represents the Maglia Rosa, the jersey worn by the leader of the GC ( General Classification). In the Tour de France, the leaders jersey is the maillot jaune ( the yellow jersey).

Another village church

We spent a fair time riding flood levees today. The one below has the Loire on the left. At other times we were adjacent to canals.

A field of purple dainty flowers. I do not know what the crop was.

Again, lots of locks. This is a well kept lock.

We thought we would have a toilet/ coffee stop in Decize, about 45 km into our ride. The traffic was awful in this town. All variety of trucks and cars seem to converge into one lane snaking around to the bridge.

Whilst waiting to cross the bridge we noted the art installation over the road. Note the bird either end. It appears to be our Aussie sulphur crested cockatoo.

A closer up pic.

Once safely over the bridge we saw a safe spot to get off the road, allow our adrenaline to reset, aided by a coffee. Back on the road it was hectic for another km or so, pretty well crawling pace at best. Despite EV6 going through this town, I would avoid it if possible

Nice skyline river view

This hedge art was at a Loire canal lock. Well maintained and manicured gardens.

Another village, another church
A cute canal with addition under construction
Waiting whilst the photographer does his bit to aid our memories and blog.

We had seen many touring cyclists during the morning, all heading the other way. Finally we found some heading in the same direction but had to stop as they had stopped and blocked the cycle path, busy in conversation.

So we made our way ahead, and arrived in a village that had a shop open selling food. We had a nice quiche and treat each.

But whilst we were eating the group came past. There is a mixture of bikes there including a few e-bikes, particularly popular with older riders. We did catch up and pass them a bit later on after our lunch.

Heading off after lunch we came up behind these two riders. What intrigued us was the size (width) of the ladies luggage.

The next two photos are amongst our favourite for the day. The first sight was the lovely old bridge.

Then a little further on and more is revealed.

The town is Charite-sur-Loire. The bridge was constructed in 1520. Joan of Arc visited the city in 1429 attempting to take the heavily fortified place. Pretty cool.

Another fascinating site today occurred as we crossed the lock below. The barge is the Deborah, with about 20 or so guests on board. As we rode the path it was apparent this was an extraordinary engineering feat.

The canal crosses over the top of the Loire, then descends steeply at the next lock. Amazing.

You can see the Loire River on the left and the canal crossing directly over the top.

Our destination today was Sancerre, a hilltop town. Our angle of approach did not show the town quite like the picture below, hence my use of someone else’s photo. The picture also does not show just how steep it is to get up to the top.

Sancerre

Tony took this photo early into the climb. The area is renowned for its wine.

Our route took us up the steepest street in the town, of course! I looked at it and thought ‘ I don’t think so’. However with my newest granny gears I made it. Just. If someone had stepped out in my path from a shop I’d have been stuffed – or maybe they might have been!

If you look on the right hand side if the graph, that needle is the last 2 km. That’s a nasty spike 🪣

An interesting town with lots of narrow streets. We had some difficulty finding our accomodation and went down and back up steep streets just because!

I needed to negotiate better secure bike storage and fortunately the Dutch owner of the accomodation was very helpful and understanding.

Apparently the French Resistance used the town during WWII as a headquarters to thwart the Germans. Certainly there are very good 360 degree views from the top.

A few of the town buildings.

Famous for its former clock constructed in the 1500s
The local Notre Dame church, the seemingly most common name for a church in France

Time for me to get ready for bed folks. It is 9 pm and I need my beauty sleep. It is a later start tomorrow as breakfast is not until 8 am. However, it is a shorter day…I think 99 km?

So stay tuned, thanks for reading

Ooroo and smile on 😊

Beaune to Bourbon Lancy

A late breakfast saw us pacing our room waiting, waiting, waiting. Not so much because we were hungry but more because we were keen to get moving, particularly with the forecasted 85% chance of a wet bum.

It was a nice breakfast and were alone bar the young lady ‘serving’ and watching, as she had no one else to look after. I was very conscious to try and chew politely and noted no bananas would make it into our front bags today for mid morning snacks.

We grabbed our bikes from the locked garage some 50 metres down the street and hit the cobbles, slowly. It was a messy few km getting out of town but within a few km we were on a busy arterial road for quite a few km. However we turned off and entered a series of agricultural use roads in between various vineyards.

Proudly displaying my Trek badging as a Trek ambassador, with a lovely backdrop.

The vineyards were a hive of activity. There were workers walking up and down looking at their plants and agricultural machinery tilling the soil.

There were many of these vehicles on the road, which were really only one lane wide, so we would pull over so they could roar past.

Tony needed to find a loo, so we turned off into a village, found this little abode that may have been open for coffee? That is our preferred currency. Buy a coffee, use a loo.

They let him use the loo, but we could find no coffee! Freebie!

Back onto a wider road from the village, the vineyards had high stone walls. These walls would be maybe eight foot high.

This was randomly placed at an intersection. Whimsical.

Pretty villages dotted the area. it was really scenic and pleasant riding.

We left the vineyard are and headed back to canals! Another sign, but the main reason I included this is the bum shot…of my bike rear and jacket!

When riding we have limited storage space. My jersey pockets here have a smaller drink bottle I filled for additional liquid ( but too small to firmly sit in my second drink holder) and my gilet. By now it was 24 C and I was too warm, so off it came.

You can also see my rear luggage. Inside that black bag is my spare cycling gear, cold weather gear, toiletries and medicine, and casual clothes. Strapped to the top are my over booties that go over my cycling shoes if it rains heaps, plus my casual sandals.

The yellow dingle dangle thingy is something Tony made. As we ride, it flies around, hopefully grabbing the attention of drivers behind us.

I also have a Garmin radar on the back of my bag. It picks up cars a fair distance back, and alerts me with a loud beep, that also shows up on my bike computer.

A holiday boat moving down a canal. I think that kind of holiday would drive me bonkers, as it would take so long to move between all the locks.

I like the photo below in this village. I suspect that the Tour de France has been through previously. Note the markings on the road with the bike symbol. Bike riders are treated with heaps of respect in France. They are well catered for. Many people ride. It is great to see so many older men and women on their bikes, baguettes in the front basket.

A nice church we passed in a busy town. We got caught at red lights, out came the camera.

Another tree lined bike path

We rode through the village of Perrecy-les-Forges and found a nice place to stop, that just happened to have a boulangerie over the road. Salad bagel with chicken for lunch.

Our lunch spot

It is pretty great when you take a photo and the name of the town is in the photo!

Neuvy Grandchamp

Riding wise, we did get a little wet but not for long. There were two heavy showers that passed and the rain jackets came off.

We had our first dose of hills today too, more so in the second half of the ride. According to our Hammerhead Karoo bike computer, the longest was a 1.6 km climb at 3.8%. There were quite a few shorter steeper pinches but it kept us honest and added variety.

We need a few of these kind of days to get ready for the latter part of our odyssey where there will be plenty of hills.

After 115 km we arrived in Bourbon Lancy, a town with a medieval centre and history, as well as famous for its thermal spa.

Stolen, but pretty as.

We are staying a few km out from centre ville, adjacent to a lake. Bourbon Lancy is adjacent to the Loire, but we arrived in from the opposite side, so that we will note tomorrow.

On the map above you can see the river mapped below our finish (the black and white circle).

Question of the day – is from Alain, a Zwift pal who joins my Brekky and Brunch rides that I lead. He asked about the bike storage, how do I organise it.

The answer….a lot of research and communication. Once I complete mapping an overall trip concept, I then break it down into day by day maps, looking at where accomodation is available in towns that generally hold some interest.

I then look at various reviews, seeing if mention has been made of bike storage.

I make a booking, but I also write to each place advising that we will have two bicycles that need to be stored safely, and to please advise if this is an issue.

So far this trip, each place has had a specific locked area for bikes.

Other trips, I have been in charge of the debating team in a country where the language is other than my own. Generally, they either have somewhere or allow them in your room. I have never lost a debate.

I had one great discussion in Salzburg where the guy said to put them in their garage ( that was open 24/7), and that no one had stolen his bike. How much is your bike worth I ask? Very proudly, he said….250 euro. I cough, then I tell him what ours are worth…..he then says ‘would you like to take them to your room?😊

In areas where there are ski resorts, they use the ski room that is not in use. Others luggage rooms, or locked storage areas.

Ok folks, that’s it. I need some sleep as breakfast is at….wait for it….6 am! We also have a longer day ride tomorrow.

Take care, smile on 😊

Beaune

Breakfast was an hour later today – they cannot do it before 7 am ‘as the bread won’t be ready’. We pushed our luck and rocked up at 6.55 am. The bread was ready.

Upon leaving Besancon it was a slow crawl for the first two kilometres. Cobbles, traffic, pushing our bike across pedestrian crossings and then the fluvial tunnel.

Built around 1880 it is some 390 metres in length and runs underneath the citadel. It provides a very handy short cut from one side of Le Doubs to the other, remembering that Besancon is on a horseshoe bend of the river.

It was a crawl as there was a queue. Runners, cyclists, walkers. Once out the other side it was shady and a cool 8c. It was not going to stay that way.

If you are a keen walker, you can head to Canterbury in England via Francigena, an old historic trail.

One last look back up the hill to the citadel.

Following a mixture of the canal, Doubs and Saone rivers today there were many nice vistas. I love the old fortifications high up on hills.

The canal of the Rhine and Rhone came to an abrupt halt here, with a water turning circle, and tunnel going under the hill. I later checked maps, and on the other side of the hill there is another canal that joins le Doubs. There is a walking path through.

Peaceful waterways continued.

I’ve seen more canal locks on this trip than ever before. Many have a little house nearby where in earlier years, a lock keeper would have resided.

Tony fancied this bike, or was it the red shoe?

Shortly thereafter we detoured from our route into a village and found the smallest boulangerie ever. We made do😊.

Sitting and eating this was our view.

This was our bikes view

Wheat dominated agricultural crops today,

There has been a distinct lack of loos on EV6, but today, we found one. A hole in the ground for males and females. Got to love that splash back! Interesting rock cliff adjacent.

We enjoyed the shaded areas. The heat had picked up and for most of the day it was 28c. That is pretty hot for Tasmanians riding. My preferred riding temperature is 10-20c.

We were heading in a southern direction overall, despite our river meanderings. As the day went on a southerly picked up. It did make riding a tougher ask but ever so enjoyable in cooling us down.

We rode around the edge of Dole along the rivers edge. The Notre Dame church dominates the skyline. it was constructed in the 16th century.

A closer look, with the picture frame located a little further along the rivers edge.

I mentioned yesterday the Euro Velo signage. Here is a different one, advising what villages are ahead. There is mess on the sign, being fresh grass cuttings!

We had crossed paths today with two older blokes on e bikes, who had stayed at our accomodation. We tried saying hi but they ignored us.

During the day we saw these guys multiple times and they gave us nothing! We dubbed them, the two cranky old French farts.

Shortly after our last sighting we came across these green things. We had no idea what we were catching. They reminded me of linen vehicles that zip around larger resorts.

We did overtake them although as you can see there is not much room on their left, so we needed to give them a shout. They were pedalling these contraptions and we assume given their pace, they were electric pedal power assisted.

Damparis

We crossed over the bridge below heading into Damparis. We saw the two cranky old French farts. We got a half wave…things were improving. We kept going. They were sitting outside a boulangerie but we headed to the local supermache and grabbed basic supplies including a banana and water.

As we headed back to the river we were surprised the two cranky old French farts were still there. This time, they stood up and waved! We made it! We need to rename them!

Alas, we have not seen them since as we left Euro Velo 6 heading country and towards our next destination of Beaune.

The last 40 km was a bit of a slog into the headwind and it was seriously warm. Village after village in a predominantly rural area.

Our route into Beaune was excellent and minimal traffic. The last km was slow as we were riding on my least favoured surface, cobbles. The bike shakes despite the big tyres!

Todays route is below. We are now in the capital of the Burgundy wine growing region (so I read, despite not seeing one vineyard today).

There was a site in Beaune I was looking forward to seeing and it was the Hospices de Beaune or Hotel Dieu de Beaune, a former charitable almshouse, founded in 1443 as a hospital for the poor.

The original hospital building still exists and is regarded as one of the best examples of Burgundy architecture.

I did the self guided tour whilst Tony sat in the shade outside. It is quite extensive with 26 points of interest.

The courtyard from the entrance
The courtyard looking towards the entrance
The beautifully tiled roof
The Great Hall of the Poor where there is a line of beds down both sides
In the kitchen, I quite liked the tap!
The pharmacy had hundreds of original product bottles lining the walls

We wandered around looking for a dinner spot noting some other buildings.

I liked the paintings on this hotel
More nice ties

Then we stumbled across the Notre Dame de Beaune basilica where construction started in the 12th century.

It was seriously very cool inside offering great refuge from the heat.

The view from the rear
Another curious building

So we had dinner, wandered back and oh look, whose washing could that be?

Our room was upgraded to a suite. Those two windows are in our bedroom, but I am in a room typing this blog to the right, where we have a lounge room, and a second bathroom with the tiniest walk in shower ever.

Tony kindly being the point of reference for shower size relativity

124 km done and dusted today, 356 km in the first three days. There is an 85% chance of us getting a wet bum tomorrow as thunderstorms and rain is forecast.

Breakfast here does not start until 8 am! The look on my face must have been something as the guy said “well not before 7.45” so 7.45 it is!

Maybe the bread takes even longer to cook here!! Given we will be awake and up and about by 5.30 am it will be a long few hours….no access to our bike to get it ready either.

So until tomorrow, Ooroo and smile on 😊

What a beautiful day to ride in France

Today rates as an excellent cycle touring day. The weather was brilliant, the route fantastic, and we both felt really good.

Charlie (Trek Checkpoint SL7) and I are bonding and I’m nailing my gear changes and changing from big to small chainrings far more intuitively today.

The route today continued to follow the EuroVelo 6, which is well signposted plus has occasional interpretive panels, per below

Taken today, I am pointing out where we were at.

Before I get too far ahead of myself, I need to wind the clock back.

When we arrive at accomodation touring, once we have secured the bikes we want to know only a few things. The wifi code and most importantly, what time breakfast is!

Our hotel this morning has breakfast between 6 am and 10 am. 6 am on the knocker we presented, ready and eager. We were first there. We often are!

It was a great breakfast spread – a quality offering with a range of cold meats and cheeses, wide range of breads and pastries, a few hot food choices, yoghurts, fruits, mueslis and coffee!!

I thought this was cute – it was a lemon favoured yoghurt

The weather forecast was for another warm day. I took the next photo seated at our table looking out the window.

We retraced our route into Montbeliard to head out. It was about 730 when we left, and the city was reasonably quiet.

Looking back towards Montbeliard as we crossed the canal.

We followed the canal ( du Rhone et Rhine) for some time, then this was interspersed with le Doubs (River).

The following photos are the canal and show the serenity. It was a beautiful time to be riding. The temperature was 9C, the air crisp and clean.

This is one of my favourite photos today. It was a magnificent wooden boat, well cared for, and what a reflection.

At around 30 km stopped at L’Isle on the banks of le Doubs. Coffee and …, well it was a boulangerie…read between the lines!

This photo is looking across le Doubs, and in fact, we rode down that side of the river shortly thereafter. The river was clear and seemingly clean.

What a wonderful bike path. We only encountered one section of gravel today in a section that was being prepared to seal. It is great to see the continuing upgrade of one of the most popular EuroVelo routes.

The further we followed le Doubs, the cliffs around started to increase in height.

Around a bend and we arrived in Laissey. We saw a bar with seating outside being used by cyclists, so figured we should stop. We had a light lunch of the most beautifully light quiche.

An advantage of stopping at places such as this is that you can use their toilets, plus they happily fill your bidons with cold water.

Where we had lunch in Laissey
Over the road was this war memorial.

We descended from Laissey heading back to le Doubsand passed this old car.

This is Tony’s favourite photo today, with the tree canopy and river. i am taking the opportunity to grab my bidon.

From the same spot, looking back up,the river at a canal boat. The couple had a few bikes on board.

One of our last river views before arriving into Besancon.

Besancon is located in a horshoe section of Le Doubs. It is dominated by this old citadel that was built from 1678 to 1771. It has had a variety of uses over the years, saddest being German occupation during WWII and the site where they exterminated 100 or so locals.

Today it is a peaceful place housing a number of museums and a zoo. The first photo below Tony took as we neared Besancon.

The second photo is borrowed, and shows how extensive the fortification is.

Arriving at our accomodation our bikes were stored away securely then it was time to hit the shower and wash our kit. This is a Yaxley ( and touring cyclists in general I guess) to be inventive in how to dry your clothes.

Many accomodation places have those useless coat hangers with no hook. Tony has cable tied them to the railing to access the sun. Within a few hours all clothes were dry.

Time to start walking! We wandered around with no particular aim, no map, no phone and hoping we would find our accomodation ok.

Some photos from our meandering walk.

St John’s cathedral, with parts dating back to the 9th century.
Street view
Saint Madeleine church – very cold inside, built mid 1700’s.
Looking up the river towards Saint Madeleine church.
Revolution Square
Tour de la Pelote, an old fortification.

Day 2 has been completed. A shorter day but solid enough with 95 km ridden. Our route is below.

Well as the day winds down we have had our dinner and will chill and relax and sleep soon ready for tomorrow.

We have very much enjoyed today. The route rates highly and can recommend it to any touring cyclist.

Thanks for reading,

Ooroo – smile on 😊

And so the journey begins…

I slept crap, again! Quite annoying waking 4 times a night whilst my body still has not adjusted.

Packing took a while as Tony needed to rig an alternative fastening system for one of our rear luggage bags, as the correct straps were left at home. A series of cable ties did the trick.

Tony working on his bike – nearly ready.
Mine is ready, sort of 😊
Each morning I have looked at this cat on the roof of the house across the road. It’s a black cat, let’s hope it is lucky.

Bidding Ben farewell we descended into Stein and crossed the Rhine into Germany.

It was a nice river path, with a variety of surfaces. The water was calm and peaceful.

Looking to the west, the direction we were heading.
Who captured my image on a broomstick without my permission?

We had decided to deviate from Germany and head back to Switzerland to a town we’d visited before en route London to Venice. Rheinfelden is a town in both countries, with a bridge joining.

Rheinfelden (Switzerland) to the left.
Looking across to Switzerland

The village was just waking up but we found a cafe to sit and have a coffee in the street below.

We had only done 20 km of what was to be a longer day so we needed to keep moving.

Back on a river track we had about 15 km to do to reach the outskirts of Basel. We rode through a series of buildings owned by Roche, which is where Ben works.

This stolen photo shows their twin towers. it was too hard to get a decent photo with this particular angle.

Looking towards the southern bank of Basel.
Looking to the north and Germany. Many barges go up and down the river.

We rode over the walkway connecting Switzerland to France at Port Louis and headed to Huningue and followed the canal, on and on and on.

The next canal was the south branch of the Rhone and Rhine canal, followed by L’Allan. One waterway seemed to become another seamlessly

Following canals can get a bit tedious. There are a variety of surfaces to contend with, plus more locks than I could count. There are also no shops meaning a lack of food options.

As we closed in around Mulhouse we departed the track to search for food, and lo and behold Paul’s boulangerie magically appeared. The food was horrid, just horrid…🤩🤪 No photos were taken as we were starving.

The building below was one of the few close to the waterways. This is a relatively modern building by European standards having been constructed in 1869. it is a seminary.

One final peaceful waterway pic.

We were pleased to arrive in Montbeliard as we were weary having ridden 139 km and adjusting to riding with the extra weight of our luggage.

Whilst it was relatively flat, we had had issues in a few busy city centres with road works, and needed to re navigate quite a few times

We were both pretty thirsty and hungry too. We had run out of water about 20 km short of our destination, so veered off the track and headed into a village. No shops. The school gates were locked but I could hear voices. I saw a lady outside her house so approached her and she kindly filled up our bidons.

We have showered and wandered around the town. Surprisingly most food places are closed tonight so made do with some basic food.

Breakfast in the hotel is at 6.30 am. We will be there promptly and will devour heaps.

Walkabouts in Montbeliard
Chateau de Montbeliard

The Chateau de Montbeliard is built on a rocky outcrop overlooking the town. There has been a fortress on this site since Gallo-Roman times.

In the 1300s the castle was privately owned until 1793 when it became part of Revolutionary France. It has since been transformed into a history museum.

Todays route is below. A three country day with 5 border crossings.

The bike survived its first full day. The Trek Checkpoint SL7 certainly handles the gravel and uneven surfaces well. it is slower on bitumen for sure, but you would expect that given the tyre size.

I am getting used to the gear change differences. Multiple times I tapped the right shifter to only make it harder lol. Etap uses shifters on both sides. I will get there.

I am hoping I get a decent sleep tonight and my tweaky back improves.

Thanks all,

Ooroo and smile on 😊

Mother’s Day jaunt

We were keen to get the bikes out to check and test before starting our cycle tour. I had a broken night sleep again with my body clock still out of wack. My back ultimately insisted I get out of bed and moving.

With Ben and Sharon still asleep, we snuck out and rolled down the hill into Stein. We thought we would just head to the Rhine River path, cross over to Bad Sackingen in Germany searching for a bakery to purchase items for our latter brunch.

We rolled out of Stein along a lovely bike path and arrived in Sisseln with a lovely smiley welcome.

We turned left and headed down on a dirt track to the Rhine River and admired the view.

My new bike, Trek Checkpoint SL7
Looking west along the Rhine River

We then followed this nicely formed path but were quickly turned back by a no bike sign. Then took the only other obvious option.

We pushed our bikes up a grassy hill and found another gravel path and headed back out onto the bike path, heading to Stein.

The view from the Swiss Stein side looking towards Bad Sackingen, Germany.

We rode back into Germany and nothing was open. You can see from our map we wandered around a fair bit.

Riding back into Switzerland across the covered wooden bridge. The bridge is 203.7 metres in length and is the longest roofed wooden bridge in Europe. It was built in 1272 and has been destroyed several times. The current bridge was completed in 1700.

Originally a road bridge, it is now only open for pedestrians since 1979

Viewing the bridge from the German side

Back at Ben and Sharon’s place we had a wonderful brunch with local. This was about half of what was on offer. We will need to ride 3000 km now!

We needed to work off some calories so we headed off for an afternoon walk in the local forest.

The first km was quite steep as you can see from the ascent map. Never shows in photos.

It was a beautiful forest, recently greened up with spring.

At the top of the climb, we walked around the edge of a farm with some curious cows.

The next paddock we managed to upset a bull who clearly indicated his discomfort with our presence, roaring and hoof scraping the ground. The single strand of electric tape seemed inadequate so we took the hint and moved on.

The upset bull.

Lovely farmland including flowering rapeseed (Canola).

Well signposted tracks clearly indicating direction and distance at Chatzeflue (top of this section of climb).

From Chatzeflue looking down the valley on the southern side towards the pretty village of Obermumpf.

Obermumpf

More pretty park like farmland.

At Mumpferflue, the ever reluctant Ben complying with the photographers request despite his wife’s pleading.

Mum and son

We then descended on the northern side of the hill, with views back towards Germany

Looking westerly along the Rhine, Switzerland to the left, Germany to the right.

No breeze to fly the Swiss flag

The very pretty forest carpeted with a white flower that is used for culinary purposes. It has a sweet onion smell.

Decent little walk. Our second for the day. Total walking today is 10 km, and total pottering ride, 17 km.

All set to finalise our bag packing for the morning. We plan to be on the road by 8 am at the latest. We just need Ben and Sharon to be up so we can say farewell for a few weeks.

So stay tuned, as our odyssey is imminent.

Smile on 😊

De jetlagging

The bikes have survived the flight and are whole, courtesy of Tony. We are yet to hop on and ride and adjust, as we are tired still and would rather wait a day to ensure we are more alert.

My epilepsy main trigger is extreme tiredness and often associated with jetlag so an important safety measure too.

Today we went with Ben and Sharon to Freiburg Im Breisgau, a city in Germany on the edge of the famous Black Forest.

The Aldstadt (old town) still boasts a few of the original gateway entrances.

Sadly McDonalds seems to have taken over history here.

Freiburg has existed for a long time, becoming incorporated in the 12th century. It is a University and ecclesiastical centre with a population of around 250,000.

It was heavily bombed during WW2, with many parts of the city destroyed and rebuilt based upon historical plans.

The historic Munster was constructed between 1200-1500 and sustained minor damage during WW2.
A farmers market was being held today outside the Munster
The Mechanics Hall…I think…

The Aldstadt was buzzing with a wide range of performers and characters. As we walked past the next guy we stopped to watch, as he was singing…..Waltzing Matilda with a strong German accent.

There were a range of characters walking around.

An intriguing part of the Aldstadt was the flowing water drains of varying sizes, all very clean. some flowed freely, others had kids playing with little boats in them, or displays outside shops as per the photo below.

Then there were larger canals with features such as…

At this same canal were bikes tied to the rails.

How to deter thieves and make it a bit trickier.

We walked up a big hill to the site of an old Schlossberg now featuring lots of hillside walks and a beer garden.

There were great views of the city.

There was beer!

There were bananas everywhere, as part of an artist installation.

It is very hard to go anywhere in Europe without a war memorial.

I was feeling pretty weary after our walking, as my knees and hips are pretty stiff from the flight and I was ready for a nap.

Tomorrow (Sunday) we plan to take the bikes out for a short ride more to test and adjust. I have not yet ridden my new bike and we need to get my saddle height and forward position, and tilt, right and easier to do without the luggage on board.

So until tomorrow, stay safe and smile on 😊

New Bike Day

Always an exciting day when you get a new bike – after a long gestation period, Charlie finally arrived.

Charlie – Trek Checkpoint SL7 eTap- is my new touring bike and heading off to Europe with us this week.

The gestation:

When Trek first announced the release of this bike around September 2021, Tony noted it and suggested that this would be great for me for touring – better set up, with better gearing for my knee. So I contacted Aaron Keefe at Trek Port Melbourne, who is the one who recommended me as a Trek Ambassador. It was ordered and the deposit paid.

The birth:

The bike arrived into Australia only last week. Via local contacts who pulled a few strings, the bike arrived into Tasmania last night! Thanks to Aaron for running it out to an unmanned warehouse in Sunshine North.

Aaron looking a bit bewildered – needing the secret code to get through the gate at the unmanned warehouse.

He gets through the gate and into the building – will this ensure it gets to Tasmania?

Big thanks here to Aaron and Trek for going out of their way to give the bike a chance of getting here on time. Trek also sent their marketing loan bike (albeit size down – so my actual bike was always going to be the preferable option.

If you want to talk Trek and look at what they have to offer, remembering N+1, contact Aaron – now at the Rapido store in Essendon that has recently been taken over by Trek.

Big thanks for David Urquhart, Kara and Price’s Transport for expediting the transport across Bass Strait in a matter of days – a well known Tasmanian freight carrier took around two weeks to do the same journey with the loan bike.

What does the new bike look like? What are its features?

Colour – Dark aquatic and carbon smoke.

The bike is essentially a gravel bike despite the fact that it will predominantly be on bitumen – we need to provide for all terrain surfaces touring. As we have found on previous trips, there are always mapping surprises! We have ridden through farm paddocks and vineyards, scouted land mine fields, ridden over many varieties of dirt and gravel, puddles of unknown depths.

The bike has a carbon gravel frame – SRAM wireless electronic drivetrain, carbon wheels and internal storage area for tools in the downtube.

The tyres are describes as “meaty” – and are 45mm. As a comparison for non cyclists, my road bike has 23 mm, and my Roubaix used on previous tours, 30mm. Touring is not fast – if we wanted to go fast, we would use a road bike and go on supported tours.

How much does it weigh? 8.9 kg – without me and the gear! It is rated up to 125 kg so plenty of room for those French boulangeries!

There is an integrated frame bag mounts – and thanks to Trek I have two new bags on the top tube.

Not yet ridden it – so once we are in Switzerland we will need to tweak the seat height, position etc – and fortunately the first few days of our trip are following rivers and canals so we can stop easily and play mechanics.

It is getting all very real now – this time tomorrow we will be in the air on our first leg, leaving Tasmania, and leaving our beautiful Khaleesi whom we shall miss heaps.

As you can see from the photo below, she is trying to prevent us leaving – that was a neck pillow – minus its case and some filling – and now relocated to the rubbish bin!

Talk soon!

It’s about time!

Dear reader,

It’s been far too long between blog posts and I hope I am not jinxing myself writing now.

After lots of map plotting and planning and we have a big, hairy, audacious goal.

This time in three weeks we will be in the air (hopefully) on our second leg of three flights – on that dreaded Melbourne to Dubai leg. After three flights and some 32 hours we will arrive in Zurich, catch a few trains and arrive in Stein, a village in Switzerland on the Rhine River.

My son Ben and his wife Sharon live there and we have not seen each other for nearly three years. Long overdue catch up.

Ben and Sharon….he hates having his photo taken. August 2019.
Wedding day photo.

After a few nights we start what is currently planned as a 3000 km, 25,000m ascent ride, starting and finishing in Stein.

The big, hairy, audacious plan

We will cross over the Rhine and head into Germany to avoid the busy Basel traffic, then crossing into France, where we will follow the Doubs River for a few days, before reaching the Loire River and following the river until it spills into the Bay of Biscay on the French west coast.

This first section is technically easier as it is not as hilly as later in the trip. But we have solid days. In fact our trip average is 114 km per day and around 900 m ascent.

Chateaux, castles, and history abound. Our route weaves around following the meandering Loire valley. We will reach Beaugency a town we stayed at in 2015 when we rode from Calais to Narbonne.

At the mouth of the Loire, Saint Nazaire we turn south for two days until we reach La Rochelle and ride to Il de Ra and island joined to mainland France by a long bridge.

Heading east we pass through many old and historic villages including Montlucon. It’s getting pretty lumpy now.

At Annecy we circumnavigate the lake before resting in town. Next day it’s off to Morzine, where Tony spent a few weeks in 2018.

Down to Lake Geneva, around past Chillon castle. I rode around this area in 2018 with broken ribs.

The Freddie Mercury statue and the IOC headquarters are a little further around the lake, and then we climb out of Lausanne and up to Lake Neufchâtel.

Lake Geneva

Getting hillier, we head towards Interlaken where we stay at Wilderswil near the famous Jungrau. If weather permits we will do the Kleine Scheidegg loop.

A brilliant loop under the face of the Eiger that is predominantly closed to traffic with the exception of the local postal service and school bus. We will only attempt this ride if the weather is good as it is some 1900 m climbing at altitude.

Luzern is next for two nights, providing another opportunity for riding around lakes and maybe a return ferry trip to Luzern.

Beautiful Lake Luzern

Then back to Ben and Sharon for three nights where I hope to be for a significant birthday with a zero on it. Ben and I share the same date and it was planned to be together in 2019.

Of course Covid could stuff up our plans but I guess that’s why we have the very expensive travel insurance.

So I harbour great hopes that I can get to see my son. Three and a years is a long time not to see someone you love.

My fingers are crossed xxx

Teaching the old dog, new tricks!

Let’s go back in time – not that long ago – to May 2018.  I was in Europe having spent a week in the Czech Republic with my good friend Mirek and his family – then transferred to Bern in Switzerland for the wedding of my son Ben to Sharon.

In between I managed to break a couple of ribs and tried to keep that relatively quiet despite the ‘discomfort’.  I was often asked why – well, I did not want the travel insurance company telling me I could not keep riding!  I am a bit stubborn at times!

After Ben’s wedding, I caught a train to Zurich to meet up with Aussie riding buddy Geoff.  We then rode to Asolo in the Venetian region of northern Italy, to hook up with Italy Bike Tours “last 12 days” of the Giro d’Italia.

It was an incredible 12 days spent in a variety of regions of northern Italy – watching incredible racing – riding some beautiful areas.

Much to my astonishment, I was contacted by Clive Marshall, Italy Bike Tours owner a fortnight ago asking me if I would consider being a support leader and ambassador for the 2020 Giro – I was like “say what?”……I re-read the email, thinking I must have misunderstood – then I exhaled and said “Oh my goodness” to Tony!

One issue was that we were already committed (airfares paid) to fly to London in May – but it did not take much discussion to change airfares despite an additional $850 in charges to do so!  That is another story re airline price gouging!

So we are off to the Giro d’Italia 2020!!  Exciting – you bet!!

This time I will be in a different role…not as a guest, but a support rider-leader for the other guests. First time role for me, but I am confident that I can do this and delighted that Clive has that confidence in me, as I will be a week or two short of my 58th birthday by then. So guess I will be the old granny learning new tricks.

Fantastic that age is not seen as a barrier in this company, as I have had experiences more recently where age is perceived as a barrier to being an ambassador. I think it is an advantage in supporting a certain genre of riders.

The Giro is one big party of fist pumping, adrenaline surged fun, enjoyed by all ages!

So what happened in 2018 that makes me want to return? The easier and cheaper option would have been to undertake the self supported cycle tour planned.

Is it the fantastic support team?

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Daniele, the lead rider, former pro, winner of a stage of the Vuelta.

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Stephano, photographer

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Roberto and Clive

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John Lee Augustyn, former pro with Sky

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Alberto

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Marco, former tour director who takes good care of the non riders

Is it the food?

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Well this was en route to Italy…think this is in the Dolomites. Makes me laugh still! Could not resist throwing it in.

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The amazing aspect of this meal is that we are literally 10 metres from the criterium course.

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The gelato is very good! This is Erin enjoying hers, leaning on a tour, as you do! Looks like a big wine bottle on top, yes we visited a vineyard a few days before in the Franciacorta region. Prosecco tour 2020.

Is it the decorated villages and towns that the Giro passes through?

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Is it the people you bump into on Monte Zoncolon?

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This is Chris, fellow guest like myself, having a nap waiting for the race to arrive up Monte Zoncolon.

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Josie Dow, Tasmanian that I knew from my kids swimming days. Just happened to see her climbing up Monte Zoncolon and called out to her. Great place to catch up, but how amazing to see her, picking her out from the thousands heading up the mountain.

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This guy came prepared! This is about 6 km up Monte Zoncolon and he carried his painting gear up.

Is it the mountains?

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Dolomites

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Dolomites

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Lake Garda

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Lake Garda

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Yep I rode up there!

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Looking down from Colla della Finestre

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Colla della Finestre

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Bardonecchia

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Matterhorn, viewed from Cervinia. This was a magical town and climb, ending up in a valley with mountains on three sides.

Is it the people you meet?

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Luke ( ex pat Aussie living Singapore) and Peter (Australia)

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Geoff (Australia)

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Chris (USA)

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Another Tasmanian I bumped into that I knew….Kim

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Daniele’s son with his first bike

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Getting ready to roll

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Roberto

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Visiting a very old winery

Is it the people you watch?

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Missing some gear …jersey, helmet, gloves….steering interesting but he’s having fun.

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These two guys were waiting for the race and I loved watching them…they were animated and passionate.

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Passionate! This guy flew over from Colombia to watch the Giro. He knew all the Colombians on tour and shouted and cheered as they made their way to the top of the climb. We are sitting up under the trees with a birds eye view to our left and saw close hand Froome’s incredible victory.

Is it the rides we did including some personal challenges and achievements?

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Is it chillaxing?

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Rome

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Aperol spritz, Rome

Or is it that race?

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Looks to me like this rider smiled at my camera.

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This is Chris Froome, just metres from an extraordinary win, taking the Maglia Rosa from Simon Yates, setting himself up to win the Giro d’Italia 2018.

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Very forlorn Aussie team this day, waiting for a dejected Simon Yates.

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Well, it is a combination of all of the above!  The Italians are so passionate about the Giro d’Italia – they love cycling – and as the riders come into the towns, the hairs on your arm lift!

The undoubted highlight for me was successfully climbing to the top of Colla della Finestre which included 8 km of sludgy ‘gravel’ – and then watching Christopher Froome smash himself up there the next day, having made a solo break with 80 km to go – then we dashed out to secure prime viewing positions at the top of Bardonnechia waiting for him to arrive – and what an arrival it was!

Giro d’Italia 2020 promises to be a beauty – there are the lakes including Como and Garda.  Climbs including Passo Gavia and Passo Stelvio.  Towns including Milano.  The historical country of San Marino.

You want more?  Dolomites, Alps, Piemonte – prosecco, Pantani museum and me!

Memories are truly forever – well unless you get Alzheimer’s!

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