Day 2: Thann to Epinal

My first goal today was to get the Belgian cyclists talking.

I achieved that in the coffee line at breakfast. I learned that there were 18 cyclists from a Hasselt University Cycling Club in Belgium.

They were spending four days doing various climbs through the Vosges Mountains.

They then asked questions about our bikes and the trip planned.

I did smile watching the hotel owner bringing food out. There were five slices of ham and cheese on each platter to select from vs 20 cyclists and a handful of non cycling couples, She was constantly bringing out more plates of cheese and ham, not increasing the number of slices which vanished in seconds each time.

An enormous quantity of baguettes, croissants and chocolate au pain disappeared too. The coffee machine got no rest as each cyclist had a minimum of two coffees. Many like us, put a double espresso in topped by a cappuccino.

20 cyclists go through more food each than the average person. They see food and it just goes.

Lucky no bananas were on offer as it is a popular ‘to go’ item tucked in a back jersey pocket.

Bidding the Belgians farewell we grabbed our bikes from the shed. Here are just some of the bikes. More were tucked away to the right.,

Two of the Belgians grabbed the bike shed key from us, with an older man asking where we were headed. I told him and he raised his eyebrows asking if we were climbing Col du Bussang.

He was very concerned stating it was a very dangerous road.

With that positive thought, we hit the road.

The forecast today was for cool weather, and it was only 5 C upon departure.

We followed a quiet road adjacent to the river Thur. There were few cars and the occasional Saturday peloton.

The river is 53 km long and a tributary of the River Ill, ultimately flowing into the Rhine.

The path crossed the river and we followed another quiet road connecting villages. Wildflowers are starting to flower.

Saint Amarin was a larger town we ride through, located in the southern Vosge mountains.

A nice local church.

It appears the Tour de France has been through before.

Nice fountain outside the Hotel de Ville (city hall).

In 63 days, the Tour de France arrives in town, featuring the local climb, Col du Haag.

A solid little climb.

The area is lush and green, looking towards the Vosges to the right, and Col du Bussang to the left.

We started the Col du Bussang climb, rejoining the main road up. No bike paths, some verge but the road is wide and has a good quality seal.

The traffic is quite busy with cars, but very few trucks. Perhaps Saturday is a bonus for us with the lack of trucks.

At no stage did we feel unsafe, with considerate drivers giving us wide berth.

We later learned, that Bussang Pass is one of the busiest passes in the Vosges, connecting the areas (states) of Lorraine and Alsace.

It is a solid 6 km climb with the first half steeper than the second half.

Here I am climbing.

Still climbing….

Just about to reach the top.

Tony at the top.

Our elevation graph clearly showing the climb.

We take the first right hand turn just as the road descends, getting us off the busier road, and back into much quieter routes.

We pass by the source of the Moselle River, which we will be following for the next five days or so.

At least there is a trickle of water, unlike the source of the Thames.

We stop in the town of Bussang for an early lunch.

The Moselle River is now a nice creek size.

Bikes perched outside the boulangerie. We had a cold quiche and dreadfully hot coffee here. There were some cyclists ahead of us who took the last of the rolls.

Looking for toilets we found a few nice town sights.

Many cycle routes in the region.

Leaving Bussang we follow the Route La Voie Bleu, France’s new long distance bike route that follows the Moselle and Saone Rivers from Lyon to Luxembourg.

Most of the pathway is traffic free along the riverside. Other parts are minor lanes.

It is easy riding, easing to cross roadways with barriers to slow you down and warn of possible dangers ahead.

It is well signposted, with multiple areas to stop and use picnic tables.

You often pass by residents backyards, and in this case, front gate. The bike has seen better days.

The city of Epinal is our overnight destination. A larger city on both sides of the now enlarged Moselle River.

We find our Air BnB without issue, and the owner stores our bikes in his garage. Then we head up three flights of stairs to our ‘compact’ rooms featuring a loft bedroom.

Lots of areas to wack your head. Bathroom to the right, bedroom up the stairs.

The view from the unit door. Our one window, kitchenette to the left.

I forgot we had a skylight! This view is sitting in the bed. I hope we don’t sleep walk as there are no barriers.

We shower and launder and head off to check town out. It is drizzling and we find Basilique Saint Maurice, under renovation.

We enter via the door below. It is very dark inside, and looks very old. It was built in the 11th century.

Beautiful stained glass and incredible vaulting. I am forever impressed with respect for the craftsmen with their vaulted ceiling constructions.

We thought we headed out the way we entered. Apparently not.

We wandered along the Moselle River.

We grabbed supplies for dinner and breakfast and headed back to our compact unit.

Day 2 done and dusted. 90 km today. An excellent day touring.

Thankyou for reading ❣️🚴😊

Day 1: Stein to Thann

So it begins…

We woke to an overcast day. Rain was forecast but at lighter levels.

We enjoyed a slower start, talking to Ben and Sharon then it was time. Here we are, ready to hop onto our bikes and get on our way to start our 3,300 km odyssey.

Today was a three country day. The first 15 km was in Switzerland, crossing to Germany at one of our favourite villages, Rheinfelden.

We had our rain jackets on as the rain was pouring down steadily.

Old gate into town
Very damp street
River between two houses
Crossing the bridge to Germany
On the German side, looking back to Switzerland

We took shelter in a pedestrian tunnel on the German side, popping our rain booties on over our cycle shoes. It is a hard thing to do, and if you listened to our huffing, puffing and grunting I’m sure you’d laugh. They fit super tight, helps to keep the water out and keep the feet warmer.

Temperatures were cool. It was 6 C when we left and only reached 8 C by Thann in the sun.

We rode 13 km in Germany, heading back into Switzerland near Basel.

Basel is Switzerland’s third largest city, and considered the cultural capital of Switzerland with over forty museums. Well known as a centre for the pharmaceutical industry with both Roche and Novartis having large hubs.

My son Ben works for Roche in Basel.

We have visited central Basel numerous times and can recommend it.

It is a beautiful city, with a magnificent cathedral, and the lovely adjacent Rhine waterway.

Basel Cathedral
Basel as we cross the bridge
Crossing the Rhine
Statue on the bridge
Looking across to the northern side, Roche twin buildings to the right. These buildings are Switzerlands tallest.

We followed the Rhine for a few more km, before turning to the west at Huningue, and now we are in France.

We followed the path along the petite carmargue, essentially a small water canal, lots of vegetation, theoretically attracting wildlife. None to be seen today.

We spent about 25 km travelling through forest tracks such as the one below. Easy riding, very straight, with occasional busy roads to stop at.

Nice to utilise these trails as we can relax and feel quite safe. The only other users were cyclists but the forest also has many walking trails.

We did get peckish and food options were zip. We had a few little items courtesy of Qantas and Emirates that we devoured.

Foret de la Harde
Where we stopped to snack, having just crossed the main road.

We have ridden past this tank in 2022 as we headed across France to the Loire Valley. It forms part of the local WWII remembrances in the area.

This tank is on the southern side.

Riding in France you see many crosses and remembrances for WWII. Most towns and villages have at least one.

The war memorial.

We reached the town of Ensisheim just after 1 pm. Many shops were closed for siesta. Fortunately we found a small boulangerie open with just two ham rolls left. We enjoyed them!

In 1492 a 127 kg meteorite fell near the village, portions of which can be viewed at the local museum.

Aside from that fact, it’s a pretty little town.

An interesting graphic story involving Christopher Columbus. Being nowhere near Spain or the Americas unsure how it relates to the inland village we were in.
Local village church

Back on the road, we only had 20 km left to ride. That pleased me as I am still feeling a bit jet lagged.

The picture below is very typical of what we see on the pathways that bypass villages. There are agricultural fields and the ubiquitous church spire dominating the small village.

On the other side of the path, the Vosges Mountains are covered by rain clouds. We’ve had no heavier rain since Switzerland and hoping to make it to Thann dry.

100 km ridden, saw us arrive at our hotel. A bunch of cyclists were cleaning their nice road bikes out the back. They also have vehicles, indicating most are from Belgium.

We store the bikes in a large shed with the Belgian’s shiny bikes. They are not overly friendly, unusual for cyclists in this situation.

After showering and laundering we headed off on foot to check out town.

Thann is situated at the foot of the Vosges Mountains, with the river Thur running through the town.

The obvious starting point was this lovely church.

It is known as the Collegiate Church of Thann, built over a period of two centuries

Pilgrims came due to a relic of Saint Thiebaut, renowned as a miracle worker. After his death in 1160, a local bishop stopped in the valley, lighting three fires. The staff containing the relic remained stuck in the ground.

The Count of Ferrette freed the staff and built the chapel dedicated to Saint Thiebaut.

That chapel remains as the oldest section of the church we visited today.

Beautiful Gothic vaulting
The great west portal.

There are some lovely buildings in Thann.

A very narrow structure.

We were hungry and found a little boulangerie open, enjoying our morning tea albeit many hours later.

We had dinner at the hotel, albeit late for us at 7 pm. We opted for a set three course menu and ended up overly full.

There were 18 cyclists at the next table, still not friendly.

We will sleep well tonight. 100 km today and we are still feeling jet lagged. I think it will be early to bed.

Today’s route and elevation.

Thanks for reading 😊🚴❣️

Mum on tour

We have arrived in Switzerland safe and sound.

Looking out Ben’s lounge room window. Rhine River, Germany to the left bank, Switzerland to the right.

No dramas with our three flights, and I even managed four hours sleep on the Melbourne to Dubai sector.

We always try and book far enough in advance to pay extra for exit row seats which provide plenty of leg room and space to stand and stretch. Worked a treat on both longer legs.

You would not know anything was amiss in the Middle East, although I did catch some high level BBC headlines on the live news about THAT man authorising bombing drone sites in Iran. 🙈

Swiss passport control took out finger prints, photos and asked what we were doing and she was amazed.

We headed down to the baggage area and all our luggage including the bikes were waiting.

We then just walked outside. Unlike Melbourne where coming home Tony has to navigate customs chicanes with the bikes, in a long snaking queue, and we get asked questions.

Anyhow, our driver Radislav was nowhere to be found. We waited 30 min then rang him. He wanted us to go up to the departure area, to save him money as that’s free, but coming to the arrivals area he has to pay to exit.

We had paid over $300 AUD to be collected at the arrivals, and we were tired and potentially easily titchy. So I declined and insisted he come down to arrivals given the luggage included our bikes.

10 min later we were in his van and his exit fee ticket jammed the machine. He was attacking it with various keys until the said ticket was in his hand.

He was an unhappy Bulgarian by now.

I closed my eyes and after a time opened them to unfamiliar sights and a series of tunnels. It felt wrong.

I got my iPad working and sure enough he was heading to Liechtenstein and Austria (to the east) whereas our destination was towards France (to the west).

He assured me he was right. I debated the point, he eventually conceded I was actually correct, but by then he’s stuck on freeways.

We eventually wound our way to the correct destination arriving albeit late.

Radoslav is taking us back to the airport in late June so at least he has visualised where we are.

I felt sorry for him in the end, as he has lived here only two months.

Now settled in at my son Ben’s place that he shares with his wife, Sharon, we enjoyed an early dinner. I received a gift from Ben, hence the title name for this blog.

Switzerland is known for many wonderful things and today I have my very own Swiss Army knife, with multiple tools and attachments, right down to tightening screws on your glasses.

It is engraved with my name on one side, and in the other, it’s says:

I love it. Mum on tour is great and that’s what we do and we love.

I’m impressed I’m entrusted to operate such a weapon! I’m keen to use the saw!

After a solid night sleep I was up at 4 am, such is jet lag.

We headed to Stettlen, near Bern to visit Sharon’s family. Today is a public holiday in Switzerland and Sharon’s two siblings were also visiting.

We enjoyed an amazing brunch, lovely walk between rain showers, a family music game, then more food.

We need to ride over 3,000 km to work it off !

Pictures from the walk and family time.

Paths around local farms and forest
An old bakery
Bern is famous for bears
Tony, Stefan, Judy, Ben and Davita. Sharon and Joy are out of photo range.

We are ready for day 1. Mum on Tour, let’s go!

Thanks for reading. 😊❣️

Will we, wont we?

Subject to continuing calm in the Middle East, this is our 2026 bike touring plan covering 3,300 km, 6 countries in 35 days.

Are we excited? Not yet, as it was only a week ago that we realised this trip might just happen – in the few months before, we had resigned ourselves to cancelling. We will cancel if missiles start falling again though.

I think once we are an hour out of Dubai heading to Zurich, then we will start to feel it.

It is very bittersweet for us, as we both harbor tremendous guilt with Khaleesi for that period of time, despite knowing she is well cared for, it is just not the same as what she gets at home – going to sleep on our bed for starters!

We start and finish in Switzerland at my son’s house in Stein. We will follow the Rhine River riding through three countries on day one.

Heading to the Vosges villages – I did a day trip through numerous in 2019 on a solo ride. Fairytale villages set amongst vineyards and mountains. Beautiful region of France that was once part of Germany.

http://www.blog.toploc.com

We start at the mouth of the Moselle and follow the River for many days.

http://www.recess4grownups.com

Arriving in Koblenz, the Moselle joins the Rhine River.

We then follow the Rhine River again up into Cologne, where I would like to visit the Cologne Cathedral.

http://www.artandtheology.org

We need to navigate some industrial areas in this region, heading into the Netherlands through Zwolle and to the very north coast.

On the northern coastline, the Lauwersmeer National Park is home to over 100 species of birds, that breed in its water, forests and grasslands, and we are riding through the Park.

http://www.globalnationalparks.com

Following the coast we will take a ferry ride across to Ameland Island, one of the West Frisian Islands off the north coast. It consists mostly of sand dunes and is one of the inhabited Dutch Wadden islands, forming a border between the North Sea and the Wadden Sea.

We have two nights there to explore the island that has four villages. There used to be six villages but two were flooded and now lie in the sea!.

http://www.commons.wikimedia.org

Back on the ferry to mainland Europe and we wind our way down towards Amsterdam, spending two nights in Voldendam, a picturesque fishing village, close to Edam and within cycling distance of central Amsterdam.

http://www.holland.com

We will spend a day cycling through sections of Amsterdam, likely getting a bit confused and lost with all the canals and bikes and sights. There are lots of bikes in Amsterdam it seems.

Then we head south to Delft for two nights, located between Rotterdam and The Hague. We will do a day ride through the two larger cities.

http://www.kayak.co.uk

Next country is Belgium where we have two nights in Bruges which looks super pretty. I get to celebrate my 64th birthday on the second day here.

http://www.travelkiwis.com

Heading further inland to Ghent we plan to catch up with a famous Zwifter, Fran Bambust. She has already booked the restaurant. Ghent is another nice looking city.

http://www.wanderlustphotosblog.com

Heading south through Roubaix, and yes a visit to that famous stadium where the famous race finishes, we end up in Lille, northern France for two nights.

http://www.app.dailyn.app

We do a day ride to Armentieres, to visit the site of my great uncle’s burial site from WW1 at Cite Bonjean Military Cemetery.

The cemetery contains 2,132 Commonwealth burials including 470 Australians. He was the younger brother of my grandma, Nellie Saward.

I look forward to this pilgrimage to pay homage for his ultimate sacrifice for his country.

http://www.ww1cemetries.com

Spending a few days in southern Belgium in towns including Mons, Namur and Teuven we head back into Germany to Aachen.

Another impressive cathedral that we will surely have a look at.

http://www.flickriver.com

Aachen is the start of the Vennbahn, one of Europe’s longest cycle paths on a disused railway track. It heads through East Belgium into Luxembourg.

After two days we will end up in Luxembourg city, with a detour to Andy Schleck’s cycle shop – which will be closed being a Sunday so we will peer through the windows. I did have a local Zwifter offer to introduce us to Andy which was amazing, but I felt Andy would surely have better things to do!!

Then it is back into Germany, following the Saar River, through more Vosge villages and Colmar heading back into Switzerland.

A comprehensive route, with a lot more detail than I could possibly put here – more a teaser.

So, let’s hope the Middle East stays quiet, as we are routed via Dubai to Zurich. We did look at rerouting but it was an additional $7,000 on top of what we had already paid.

I have ridden 33,036 km outside of Australia now, with New Zealand sitting on 6,749 km and France in second spot on 6,565 km. France will take the lead after this trip, so I do hear New Zealand calling again!

Please join us vicariously as we continue our annual 3,000 km plus holidays, whilst we still can!!

Let peace reign.